THE R. T. S. LIBRARY--ILLUSTRATED

ADVENTURES IN NEW GUINEABYJAMES CHALMERSOF PORT MORESBY

WITH SIX ILLUSTRATIONS

THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY56, PATERNOSTER ROW; 65, ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD;AND 164, PICCADILLY1886. 

LONDON:PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 

[Port Moresby: title. Jpg]

INTRODUCTION. 

Public attention has been repeatedly and prominently directed to NewGuinea during the last few months. The name often appears in ournewspapers and missionary reports, and bids fair to take a somewhatprominent place in our blue-books. Yet very few general readers possessaccurate information about the island itself, about the work of Englishmissionaries there, or about the part New Guinea seems destined to playin Australian politics. Hence a brief sketch indicating the presentstate of knowledge on these points will be a fitting introduction to thenarratives of exploration, of adventure, and of Christian work containedin this volume. 

New Guinea, if we may take Australia as a continent, is the largestisland in the world, being, roughly speaking, about 1400 miles long, and490 broad at its widest point. Its northernmost coast nearly touches theequator, and its southernmost stretches down to 11 degrees southlatitude. Little more than the fringe or coastline of the island hasbeen at all carefully explored, but it is known to possess magnificentmountain ranges, vast stretches of beautiful scenery, much land that isfruitful, even under native cultivation, and mighty rivers that taketheir rise far inland. Its savage inhabitants have aroused powerfullythe interest and sympathy alike of Christian Polynesians and Englishmissionaries, who, taking their lives in their hands, have, in not a fewinstances, laid them down in the effort to win New Guinea for Christ. 

At some remote period of the past, New Guinea, in all probability, formeda part of Australia. Torres Strait itself is only about sixty mileswide; the water is shallow; shoals and reefs abound, giving the sailorwho threads the intricate and dangerous navigation the impression that heis sailing over what was once solid earth. 

The first European sailor who sighted the island was D'Abreu, in 1511;the honour of being first to land belongs most probably to the Portugueseexplorer, Don Jorge De Meneses, in 1526, on his way from Malacca to theMoluccas. 

Into the somewhat intricate history of the connection of the Dutch withthe north-west coast of New Guinea we cannot here enter. As suzerainnominally under the Sultan of Tidore, they claim possession of thewestern part of the island as far east as Lat. 141 degrees 47' E. Thetrade they carry on is said to be worth about 20, 000_l_. A year. Dutchmissionaries have for many years been stationed around the coast ofGeelvink Bay. 

In 1770, Captain Cook visited the south-west coast, and in 1775, anEnglish officer, Forrest by name, spent some months on the north-eastcoast in search of spices. In 1793, New Guinea was annexed by two of theEast India Company's commanders, and an island in Geelvink Bay, Manasvariby name, was for a time held by their troops. 

Partial surveys of the south coast were made in 1845 by CaptainBlackwood, who discovered the Fly River; by Lieutenant Yule, in 1846, whojourneyed east as far as the island to which he has given his name; andin 1848 by Captain Owen Stanley, who made a fairly accurate survey of thesouth-east coast. 

The most important survey work along the coast of New Guinea was done in1873 by H. M. Ship _Basilisk_, under the command of Captain Moresby. Hediscovered the now-famous harbour, Port Moresby; he laid down the trueeastern coastline of the island, discovering the China Straits, andexploring the north-east coast as far west as Huon Gulf. 

In many parts of the world Christian missionaries have been the first toget on friendly terms with the natives, and thus to pave the way fordeveloping the resources of a savage country and leading its inhabitantsin the paths of progress and civilization. Pre-eminently has this beenthe case in South-eastern New Guinea. White men had landed before them, it is true; but for the most part only to benefit themselves, and notunfrequently to murder the natives or to entrap them into slavery. Christianity has won great victories in Polynesia, but no part of theglobe has witnessed fouler crimes or more atrocious wickedness on thepart of white men towards savage races. 

The history of the work done by members of the London Missionary Societyis already a long one. As far back as 1871, the Revs. A. W. Murray andS. McFarlane sailed from Mare, one of the Loyalty Islands, with eightnative teachers, inhabitants of that group, with whom to begin thecampaign against sin, superstition, and savagery in New Guinea. Thefirst station occupied was Darnley Island, and Mr. Murray gives anincident that well illustrates the spirit in which these men, themselvestrophies of missionary success, entered upon their work. Speaking aboutanother island, the natives, in the hope of intimidating the teachers, said, "There are alligators there, and snakes, and centipedes. " "Hold, "said the teacher, "are there men there?" "Oh yes, " was the reply, "thereare men; but they are such dreadful savages that it is no use yourthinking of living among them. " "That will do, " replied the teacher. "Wherever there are men, missionaries are bound to go. " Teachers werestationed at the islands of Tauan and Sabaii. Later on, Yule Island andRedscar Bay were visited, and the missionaries returned to Lifu. 

In 1872, Mr. Murray returned in the _John Williams_ with thirteenadditional teachers, and for the next two years superintended the missionfrom Cape York. In 1874, he was joined by the Revs. S. McFarlane and W. G. Lawes--who have both ever since that time laboured hard andsuccessfully on behalf of the natives--and the steamer _Ellengowan_ wasplaced at the service of the mission by the liberality of the late MissBaxter, of Dundee. The native teachers experienced many vicissitudes. Some died from inability to stand the climate, some were massacred by themen they were striving to bless; but the gaps were filled up as speedilyas possible, and the map recently issued (Jan. 1885) by the Directors ofthe Society shows that on the south-eastern coast of New Guinea, fromMotumotu to East Cape, no less than _thirty-two native teachers_, some ofthem New Guinea converts, are now toiling in the service of the Gospel. 

In 1877, the Rev. James Chalmers joined the mission, and it is hardly toomuch to say that his arrival formed an epoch in its history. He iswonderfully equipped for the work to which he has, under God'sProvidence, put his hand, and is the white man best known to all thenatives along the south coast. From the first he has gone among themunarmed, and though not unfrequently in imminent peril, has beenmarvellously preserved. He has combined the qualities of missionary andexplorer in a very high degree, and while beloved as "Tamate" (Teacher)by the natives, has added enormously to the stock of our geographicalknowledge of New Guinea, and to our accurate acquaintance with the waysof thinking, the habits, superstitions, and mode of life of the varioustribes of natives. 

Notwithstanding various expensive expeditions for the exploration of NewGuinea, he has travelled the farthest yet into the interior. He has beenas far as Lat. S. 9 degrees 2' and Long. E. 147 degrees 42. 5'. Thefarthest point reached by Captain Armit was about Lat. S. 9 degrees 35'and Long. E. 147 degrees 38'. Mr. Morrison merely reached a point on theGoldie River, when he was attacked and wounded by the natives. Thiscompelled the party to return to Port Moresby. 

Mr. Chalmers is still actively engaged in his work on the great island, and he has placed many of his journals and papers at the disposal of theReligious Tract Society, in the hope that their publication may increasethe general store of knowledge about New Guinea, and may also give trueideas about the natives, the kind of Christian work that is being done intheir midst, and the progress in it that is being made. 

The prominence which New Guinea has assumed in the public mind lately isdue much more to political than to religious reasons. England is aChristian nation, and there are numbers who rejoice in New Guinea as asignal proof of the regenerating power of the Gospel of Christ. Yet, tothe Christian man, it is somewhat humiliating to find how deeply thepress of our country is stirred by the statement that Germany has annexedthe north coast of New Guinea, while it has hardly been touched by thethrilling story of the introduction of Christianity all along the southcoast. The public mind is much exercised in discussing whether HerMajesty's Government should annex the whole rather than proclaim aprotectorate over a part; it hardly cares to remember the names of thosewho have died in trying to make known to the fierce Papuans our commonbrotherhood in Christ Jesus. One can understand that this is natural;still it will be an augury of good for the future of the English people, when, without losing any of their legitimate interest in public affairs, they care more for the victories won by faith alone, over ignorance, vice, and barbarism, than for the victories won by the rifle and sword, however just the cause may be in which these weapons are used. 

For years past the idea has been gaining force in the public mind, bothin the colonies and at home, that ultimately England would annex NewGuinea. To any careful student of our history for the last century, itmay appear strange that we have not done so long before. Our practice inthe past has been to annex first, and to find reasons for it afterwards. To others, the very fact that even now the extremest step is only toproclaim a protectorate over a part, may appear to indicate that we arenot quite so sure as we have been that annexation is wholly a blessingeither to us or to the land annexed. 

As already noted, in 1873, Captain Moresby did good service by accuratelylaying down the coastline of Eastern New Guinea. In accomplishing this, he discovered that there were several beautiful islands that had hithertobeen considered part of the mainland. It is best perhaps to give whatfollowed in his own words:--

 "The importance of our discoveries led me to consider their bearing on Imperial and Australian interests. There lay the vast island of New Guinea, dominating the shores of Northern Australia, separated at one point by only twenty miles of coral reef from British possessions, commanding the Torres Straits route, commanding the increasing pearl- shell fisheries, and also the _beche-de-mer_ fishery. It was also improved by the richness and beauty, and the number of their fine vegetable products--fine timber, the cocoanut, the sago palm, sugar- cane, maize, jute, and various vegetable fibres, fruits and rich grasses--and my conclusion, after weighing all the considerations involved, was, that it was my duty to take formal possession of our discoveries in the name of Her Majesty. Such a course secured a postponement of occupation by any Power till our Government could consider its own interests, and whilst the acquisition of these islands might commend itself, and my act result in annexation on the one hand, it might be negatived on the other with easy simplicity, by a neglect to confirm it. "

Accordingly, a cocoanut tree was transformed into a flagstaff, theBritish flag was run up, and duly saluted with cheers and volleys, and apicture of the proceeding adorns the captain's book as frontispiece. 

Ever since that time events have tended in the direction of bringing NewGuinea into closer relations with England. On the one hand, there hasbeen the conviction that if we do not annex it some other country will, and thus threaten Australia. Then many Australians have looked upon NewGuinea as a possible paradise for colonists, and have been eager toestablish themselves securely upon its soil. The attempts in thisdirection have produced little but disaster to all concerned. 

On the other hand, missionaries feel that there is much to be said on thesame side. Perhaps the opinion of no one man deserves more weight thanthat of Mr. Chalmers. We give his views, as he expressed them before theprotectorate was proclaimed. 

"This question of the annexation of New Guinea is still creating a gooddeal of interest, and although at present the Imperial Government, through Lord Derby, has given its decision against annexation, yet thewhole matter must, I have no doubt, be reconsidered, and the island beeventually annexed. It is to be hoped the country is not to become partof the Australian colonies--a labour land, and a land where loose moneyin the hands of a few capitalists is to enter in and make enormousfortunes, sacrificing the natives and everything else. If the ImperialGovernment is afraid of the expense, I think that can easily be avoided. Annex New Guinea, and save it from another power, who might harass ourAustralian colonies; administer it for the natives, and the wholemachinery of government can be maintained by New Guinea, and allow alarge overplus. We have all the experience of the Dutch in Java; I say, accept and improve. 

"It will be said that, as a nation, Britain has never tried to governcommercially, or has not yet made money out of her governing; and whyshould she now? She does not want New Guinea. Why should she go to theexpense of governing? Her colonies may be unsafe with a country ofsplendid harbours so near in the hands of a foreign power, and the peopleof that country need a strong, friendly, and just power over them, tosave them from themselves and from the white man--whose gods are gold andland, and to whom the black man is a nuisance to be got rid of as soon aspossible. Let Britain for these reasons annex, and from the day ofannexation New Guinea will pay all her own expenses; the expenses of thefirst three years to be paid with compound interest at the end of thatperiod. 

"Let us begin by recognizing all native rights, and letting it bedistinctly understood that we govern for the native races, not the whitemen, that we are determined to civilize and raise to a higher level ofhumanity those whom we govern, that our aim will be to do all to defendthem and save them from extermination by just humanitarian laws--not thelaws of the British nation--but the laws suited for them. It will nottake long for the natives to learn that not only are we great andpowerful, but we are just and merciful, and we seek their good. 

"That established, I would suggest appointing officers in every district, whose duty it would be to govern through the native chief, and see thatevery native attended to plantations. A native planting tea, sugar, coffee, maize, cinchona, etc. , to be allowed a bounty, and when returnsarrived to be allowed so much per pound sterling. All these things to besuperintended by the said officer. 

"Traders would soon swarm, but no one should be allowed to trade withnatives directly, but only through the Government. 

"All unoccupied land to belong to the Government, and to be leased tothose wishing land. No native should be allowed to part with land, andif desirous to sell, then only to the Government, who would allow him areasonable price. Every land transaction to be made through Government;no land to be sold, only leased. 

"The land revenue will be immense, and after paying all expenses, willleave much for improvements and the education of the people. Stringentlaws passed directly annexation takes place to prevent importation ofarms and spirits will be a true safeguard for the natives. 

"As a nation, let Britain, in the zenith of her power and greatness, think kindly of the native races, and now for once in her history rulethis great island for right and righteousness, in justice and mercy, andnot for self and pelf in unrighteousness, blood, and falsehood. It is tobe hoped that future generations of New Guinea natives will not rise upto condemn her, as the New Zealanders have done, and to claim theirancient rights with tears now unheeded. I can see along the vista of thefuture, truth and righteousness in Britain's hands, and the inhabitantsof New Guinea yet unborn blessing her for her rule; if otherwise, Godhelp the British meanness, for they will rise to pronounce a curse on herfor ever!"

In 1883, the Queensland Government _did_ formally annex their hugeneighbour; but this act was subsequently repudiated by the HomeGovernment. Towards the end of 1884, it was decided to announce a formalprotectorate over a large portion of the southern shores of New Guinea. 

[Boevagi. Chief of Port Moresby: 19. Jpg]

The official ceremony took place on Nov. 6th, 1884, at Port Moresby. Fiveships of war at once gave dignity to the proceeding by their presence, and astonished the natives by their salutes. About fifty chiefs werebrought on board the Commodore's ship, the _Nelson_, by the Rev. W. G. Lawes. To Boevagi, the chief of the Port Moresby tribe, was entrustedthe responsibility of upholding the authority and dignity of England inthe island. He was presented with an ebony stick, into the top of whichhad been let a florin, with the Queen's head uppermost. Mr. Lawesconveyed to Boevagi the meaning of the Commodore's words when he gave thestick. "I present you with this stick, which is to be an emblem of yourauthority; and all the tribes who are represented by the chiefs here areto look to the holder of this stick. Boevagi, this stick represents theQueen of England, and if at any time any of the people of these tribeshave any grievance or anything to say, they are, through the holder ofthis stick, to make it known to the Queen's officers, in order that itmay be inquired into. "

The formal protectorate was announced in the following terms:--

"To all to whom these presents shall come, greeting:--Whereas it hasbecome essential for the lives and properties of the native inhabitantsof New Guinea, and for the purpose of preventing the occupation ofportions of that country by persons whose proceedings, unsanctioned byany lawful authority, might tend to injustice, strife, and bloodshed, andwho, under the pretence of legitimate trade and intercourse, mightendanger the liberties and possess themselves of the lands of such nativeinhabitants, that a British protectorate should be established over acertain portion of such country and the islands adjacent thereto; andwhereas Her Majesty, having taken into her gracious consideration theurgent necessity of her protection to such inhabitants, has directed meto proclaim such protection in a formal manner at this place, --now I, James Elphinstone Erskine, Captain in the Royal Navy and Commodore of theAustralian Station, one of Her Majesty's naval aides-de-camp, do hereby, in the name of Her Most Gracious Majesty, declare and proclaim theestablishment of such protectorate over such portions of the coast andthe adjacent islands as is more particularly described in the schedulehereunto annexed; and I hereby proclaim and declare that no acquisitionof land, whensoever or howsoever acquired, within the limits of theprotectorate hereby established will be recognized by Her Majesty; and Ido hereby, on behalf of Her Majesty, command and enjoin all persons whomit may concern to take notice of this proclamation. 

 "SCHEDULE. 

 "All that portion of the southern shores of New Guinea commencing from the boundary of that portion of the country claimed by the Government of the Netherlands on the 141st meridian of east longitude to East Cape, with all the islands adjacent thereto south of East Cape to Kosmann Island inclusive, together with the islands in the Goschen Straits. 

 "Given on board Her Majesty's ship _Nelson_, at the harbour of Port Moresby, on the 6th day of November, 1884. "

The die has thus been cast. Already rumours that seem to have somefoundation are in the air that the protectorate is soon to becomeannexation. It should be the aim of all to see that, by the force ofpublic opinion, the last portion of the heathen world that has come underEnglish protection shall have, as the years pass, many and solid reasonsfor thanking God that He has so guided its destinies as to unite them toour great Empire. 

CHAPTER I. EARLY EXPERIENCES. 

Somerset--Murray Island--Darnley Island--Boera--Moresby--Tripinland--Sunday at Port Moresby--Native funeral ceremonies--Tupuselei--RoundHead--Native salutations--Kerepunu--Teste Island--Hoop-iron as an articleof commerce--Two teachers landed--A tabooed place--Moresby and BasiliskIslands--South Cape--House building--Difficulties with the natives--Ananxious moment--Thefts--Dancing and cooking--Visit to a nativevillage--Native shot on the Mayri--Mr. And Mrs. Chalmers indanger--Arrival of the _Ellengowan_. 

Towards the close of 1877, Mr. Chalmers and Mr. McFarlane visited NewGuinea for the purpose of exploring the coast, landing native teachers atsuitable spots, and thus opening the way for future missionary effort. What follows is given in Mr. Chalmers's words:--

We left Sydney by the Dutch steamer _William M'Kinnon_, on September20th, 1877, for Somerset. The sail inside the Barrier Reef is mostenjoyable. The numerous islands passed, and the varied coast scenerymake the voyage a very pleasant one--especially with such men as ourcaptain and mates. On Sunday, the 30th, we reached Somerset, where wewere met by the _Bertha_, with Mr. McFarlane on board of her. Mr. McFarlane was soon on board of the steamer to welcome us, and remainedwith us till the evening. There was very little of the Sabbath observedthat day--all was bustle and confusion. Quite a number of thepearl-shelling boats were at Somerset awaiting the arrival of thesteamer, and the masters of these boats were soon on and around thesteamer receiving their goods. 

On Tuesday, October 2nd, we left Somerset in the _Bertha_, for MurrayIsland, anchoring that night off Albany. On Wednesday night, we anchoredoff a sandbank, and on Thursday, off a miserable-looking island, calledVillage Island. On Friday, we came to York Island, where we went ashoreand saw only four natives--one man and three boys. At eleven p. M. OnSaturday, we anchored at Darnley Island. This is a fine island, and moresuitable for vessels and landing goods than Murray, but supposed to benot so healthy. The island is about five hundred feet in height, in someparts thickly wooded, in others bare. It was here the natives cut off aboat's crew about thirty years ago, for which they suffered--the captainlanding with part of his crew, well-armed, killing many and chasing themright round the island. They never again attempted anything of the kind. As a native of the island expressed himself on the subject:--"Whitefellow, he too much make fright, man he all run away, no want see whitefellow gun no more. " In 1871, the first teachers were landed here. 

The Sunday morning was fine, and we resolved to spend a quiet forenoon onshore. We landed after breakfast, and walked through what must be in wetweather a deep swamp, to the mission house on the hill. Gucheng, theLoyalty islander, who is teacher here, looks a good determined fellow. The people seem to live not far from the mission house, so did not takelong to assemble. There were about eighty at the service, including afew Australians employed by one of the white men on the island to fishfor trepang. The Darnley islanders appear a much more interesting peoplethan the Australians. Many of those present at the service were clothed. They sang very well indeed such hymns as "Come to Jesus, " "Canaan, brightCanaan, " which, with some others, have been translated into theirlanguage. Mr. McFarlane addressed them, through the teacher, and thepeople seemed to attend to what was said. 

Because of a strong head wind, we could not leave the next day, so Mr. McFarlane and I returned to the shore. We found the children collectedin Gucheng's house, learning to write the letters on slates. There werevery few girls present--indeed, there are not many girls on the island, so many have been destroyed by their fathers at birth. We strolled aboutand visited the large cocoanut plantation belonging to the society. Onour return we found the teacher and a number of natives collected nearthe beach. They had just buried a man who had died the night before--soChristian burial has begun. Formerly, the body would have been hung upand tapped, to allow the juices to run out, which would have been drunkby the friends. We returned to the mission house for dinner. I was gladto find so many boys living with Gucheng. They were bright, happy littlefellows, romping about, enjoying themselves. 

We did not get away from Darnley Island till the morning of Wednesday, the 10th. The navigation between Darnley and Murray Islands isdifficult, arising from various reefs and currents. Although only twenty-seven miles separate the two, it was Friday night before we anchored atMurray Island. We went ashore the same night. 

On Saturday, we climbed to the highest point of the island, seven hundredfeet high. There seems to be no lack of food, chiefly grown inland. Fromthe long drought, the island presented in many places a parched look, andlacked that luxuriance of vegetation to which we had been so longaccustomed on Rarotonga. 

At the forenoon meeting on Sunday there were nearly two hundred present. Mr. McFarlane preached. A few had a little clothing on them; some seemedattentive, but the most seemed to consider the occasion a fit time forrelating the week's news, or of commenting on the strangers present. TheSabbath is observed by church attendance and a cessation from work. Thereis not much thieving on the island; they are an indolent people. Theschool is well attended by old and young, and Josiah, the teacher, hasquite a number of children living with him. They sing very well. 

Several of the old men here wear wigs. It seems when grey hairs appearthey are carefully pulled out; as time moves on they increase so fastthat they would require to shave the head often, so, to cover theirshame, they take to wigs, which represent them as having long, flowing, curly hair, as in youth. Wigs would not astonish the Murray islanders, as Mr. Nott's did the Tahitians after his return from England. They soonspread the news round the island that their missionary had had his headnewly thatched, and looked a young man again. 

On Monday, the teachers' goods and mission supplies were put on board the_Bertha_. On Tuesday afternoon, after everything was on board, afarewell service was held with the teachers, and early on Wednesdaymorning we left Murray Island for New Guinea. On Friday, we made NewGuinea, off Yule Island, and about sunset on October 21st we anchoredabout five miles off Boera. Near to the place where we anchored was alow swampy ground covered with mangrove. We could see Lealea, wherethere has been so much sickness. It presented the same low, swampy, unhealthy appearance. Soon after we anchored a canoe came alongside withMr. Lawes and Piri on board. Mr. Lawes did not seem so strong as Iremembered him eleven years ago, yet he looked better than I had expectedto see him. He has suffered greatly from the climate. Piri is a strong, hearty fellow; the climate seems to have had little effect on him. Theyremained some time on board, when they went ashore in the vessel'sboat--Piri taking the teachers and their wives ashore with him. The windwas ahead, and too strong for the canoe, so the men who came off in herwith Mr. Lawes and Piri remained on board the _Bertha_ till midnight, when the wind abated. When the boat was leaving, they shouted to Mr. Lawes to tell us not to be afraid, as they would not steal anything. Theyremained quietly on board till two a. M. 

Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore in the morning. The country looked bareand not at all inviting. This is now the most western mission station onNew Guinea proper. Piri has a very comfortable house, with a plantationnear to it. The chapel, built principally by himself and wife, is small, but comfortable, and well suited for the climate. The children meet init for school. The village has a very dirty, tumbledown appearance. 

The widows of two teachers who died last year shortly after their arrivalin the mission were living with Piri. We took them on board, with theirthings, to accompany us to the new mission. I returned ashore with theboat to fetch away the remainder of the things and teachers who wereashore, and when ready to return found the vessel too far off to fetchher, so, after pulling for some time, we up sail and away for PortMoresby. Piri and his wife came with us in their large canoe. We sawseveral dugongs on the way, which some esteem extra good food. Tom, oneof the Loyalty Island teachers, who was in the boat with us, expressedtheir edible qualities thus: "You know, sir, pig, he good. " "Yes, Tom, it is very good. " "Ah, he no good; dugong, he much good. " It must begood when a native pronounces it to be better than pork. 

We arrived at Port Moresby about six o'clock. I cannot say I was muchcharmed with the place, it had such a burnt-up, barren appearance. Closeto the village is a mangrove swamp, and the whole bay is enclosed withhigh hills. At the back of the mission premises, and close to them, is alarge swampy place, which in wet weather is full of water. There can beno doubt about Port Moresby being a very unhealthy place. We went ashorefor breakfast next day, and in the afternoon visited the school; aboutforty children were present--an unusually large number. Many of thechildren know the alphabet, and a few can spell words of two or threeletters. In walking through the village in the afternoon we saw thewomen making their crockery pots, preparing for the men's return from theGulf, the next north-west season, with large quantities of sago. Wevisited the graves of the teachers, which are kept in good order. Theyare all enclosed by a good fence. Within the same enclosure is onelittle grave that will bind New Guinea close to the hearts of Mr. AndMrs. Lawes. Over them all may be written--"For Christ's sake. "

In returning from the graves, we met a man in mourning, whose wife hadbeen killed in a canoe by natives about Round Head. He and his friendshad resolved to retaliate, but through the influence of the teachers theydid not do so. The teachers from the villages to the east of PortMoresby came in this afternoon, looking well and hearty. Some of themhave suffered a good deal from fever and ague, but are now becomingacclimatized. The natives of the various villages are not now afraid ofone another, but accompany their teachers from place to place. Men, women, and children smoke, and will do anything for tobacco. The bestpresent you can give them is tobacco; it is the one thing for which theybeg. 

As it was decided that the vessel should not leave before Tuesday of thenext week, Mr. McFarlane and I took a trip inland. I was anxious to seefor myself if anything could be done for the natives living in themountains. Mr. Goldie, a naturalist, with his party, was about ten milesinland. He himself had been at Port Moresby for some days, and, onhearing of our plans, he joined us, and we proceeded first to his camp. We left Port Moresby about half-past five on Thursday morning, andcrossed the low ground at the back of the mission house. We ascended thehill which runs all along the coast in this district at a part aboutthree hundred feet high, and then descended into a great plain. Atpresent the plain is dry and hard, from the long drought, and very littleof anything green is to be seen. There are a few small gum-trees, andgreat herds of wallabies were jumping about. The greater part of thisplain is under water in the wet seasons. We walked about ten miles in aneast-north-east direction, keeping the Astrolabe Range to our right, whenwe came to the camp, close by a large river--the Laroki. Being afraid ofalligators, we preferred having water poured over us to bathing in theriver. 

Our party was a tolerably large one--Ruatoka (the Port Moresby teacher), some Port Moresby natives, and four Loyalty Island teachers, on their wayto East Cape. We did not see a strange native all the way. We had ourhammocks made fast in the bush by the river side, and rested until threep. M. , when we started for another part of the river about seven milesoff, in a south-east direction. Mr. Goldie also shifted his camp. Aftersunset we reached the point where the river was to be crossed, and therewe meant to remain for the night. 

We had a bath, then supper, and evening prayers; after which we slung ourhammocks to the trees, in which we rested well. It was a strangely weird-looking sight, and the noises were of a strange kind--wallabies leapingpast, and strange birds overhead. Mr. Goldie's Mare men joined withtheir countrymen, the teachers, in singing some of Sankey's hymns inEnglish. Soon sleep came, and all seemed quiet. 

At three a. M. Of the 26th we struck camp, and after morning prayers webegan to cross the river, which was not over four feet in the deepestpart. It was here Mr. Lawes crossed when he first visited the inlandtribes; so now, led by Ruatoka, we were on his track. The moon was oftenhidden by dark clouds, so we had some difficulty in keeping to the path. We pressed on, as we were anxious to get to a deserted village which Mr. Goldie knew to breakfast. We reached the village about six, and after wehad partaken of breakfast we set off for the mountains. When we had goneabout four miles the road became more uneven. Wallabies were not to beseen, and soon we were in a valley close by the river, which we followedfor a long way, and then began to ascend. We climbed it under a burningsun, Ruatoka calling out, _Tepiake_, _tepiake_, _tepiake_ (Friends, friends, friends). Armed natives soon appeared on the ridge, shouting, _Misi Lao_, _Misi Lao_. Ruatoka called back, _Misi Lao_ (Mr. Lawes), andall was right--spears were put away and they came to meet us, escortingus to a sort of reception-room, where we all squatted, glad to get in theshade from the sun. We were now about 1100 feet above the sea level. Wewere surprised to see their houses built on the highest tree-tops theycould find on the top of the ridge. One of the teachers remarked, "Queerfellows these; not only do they live on the mountain tops, but they mustselect the highest trees they can find for their houses. " We were verysoon friends; they seemed at ease, some smoking tobacco, others chewingbetel-nuts. I changed my shirt, and when those near me saw my white skinthey raised a shout that soon brought the others round. Bartering soonbegan--taro, sugar-cane, sweet yams, and water were got in exchange fortobacco, beads, and cloth. 

After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the next village, fivemiles further along the ridge. Some of our party were too tired toaccompany us; they remained where we expected to camp for the night. After walking some miles, we came unexpectedly on some natives. As soonas they saw us they rushed for their spears, and seemed determined todispute our way. By a number of signs--touching our chins with our righthands, etc. --they understood we were not foes, so they soon becamefriendly. They had their faces blackened with soot, plumbago, and gum, and then sprinkled over with white; their mouths and teeth were in aterrible mess from chewing the betel-nut. On our leaving them, theyshouted on to the next village. An old man lay outside on the platformof the next house we came to; he looked terribly frightened as weapproached him, but as, instead of injuring him, we gave him a present, he soon rallied, and got us water to drink. By-and-by a few gatheredround. We understood them to say the most of the people were away on theplains hunting for wallabies. One young woman had a net over hershoulders and covering her breasts, as a token of mourning--animprovement on their ordinary attire, which is simply a short grasspetticoat--the men _nil_. 

After a short stay, we returned to where we thought of camping for thenight, but for want of water we went on to the village we had visited inthe forenoon. We slung our hammocks in the reception room, had supper, and turned in for the night. It felt bleak and cold, and the narrownessof the ridge made us careful, even in our sleep, lest we should fall outand over. On coming across the highest peak in the afternoon, we had amagnificent view of Mount Owen Stanley, with his two peaks rising faraway above the other mountains by which he is surrounded. It must havebeen about thirty miles off, and, I should think, impossible to reachfrom where we were. We were entirely surrounded by mountains: mountainsnorth, east, south, and west--above us and below us. I question if itwill ever be a country worth settling in. 

We were anxious to spend the Sabbath at Port Moresby, so, leaving themost of our party, who were too tired to come with us, to rest tillMonday, Mr. McFarlane, Ruatoka, and I set off on our return very early onSaturday morning, and had strangely difficult work in getting down themountain side and along the river. Fireflies danced all round inhundreds, and we awakened many strange birds before their time, whichgave forth a note or two, only to sleep again. Before daylight, we wereat Mr. Goldie's camp, where we had breakfast, and hurried on for theriver. We rested a short time there, and then away over plains to PortMoresby, which we reached about midday, tired indeed and very footsore. Oh, that shoemakers had only to wear the boots they send to missionaries!

Early on Sunday morning, a great many natives went out with their spears, nets, and dogs, to hunt wallabies. A goodly number attended the forenoonservice, when Mr. Lawes preached. A good many strangers were presentfrom an inland village on the Astrolabe side. There is not yet muchobservance of the Sabbath. Poi, one of the chief men of the place, isvery friendly: he kept quite a party of his inland friends from hunting, and brought them to the services. Mr. Lawes preached again in theafternoon. As we went to church in the afternoon the hunters werereturning: they had evidently had a successful day's hunting. During theday a canoe came in from Hula, laden with old cocoanuts, which weretraded for pottery. 

In the evening, an old sorceress died, and great was the wailing over herbody. She was buried on the Monday morning, just opposite the house inwhich she had lived. A grave was dug two feet deep, and spread over withmats, on which the corpse was laid. Her husband lay on the body, in thegrave, for some time, and, after some talking to the departed spirit, gotup, and lay down by the side of the grave, covered with a mat. Aboutmidday, the grave was covered over with the earth, and friends sat on itweeping. The relatives of the dead put on mourning by blackening theirbodies all over, and besmearing them with ashes. 

On the 31st, the _Bertha_ left for Kerepunu. As I was anxious to see allthe mission stations along the coast between Port Moresby and Kerepunu, Iremained, to accompany Mr. Lawes in the small schooner _Mayri_. We lefton the following day, and sailed down the coast inside the reef. Wearrived at Tupuselei about midday. There were two teachers here, and Mr. Lawes having decided to remove one, we got him on board, and sailed forKaili. The villages of Tupuselei and Kaili are quite in the sea. I fearthey are very unhealthy--mangroves and low swampy ground abound. TheAstrolabe Range is not far from the shore we were sailing along all day. There is a fine bold coast line, with many bays. 

In the early morning, our small vessel of only seven tons was crowdedwith natives. We left the vessel about nine a. M. For a walk inland, accompanied by a number of natives, who all went to their houses fortheir arms before they would leave their village. They have no faithwhatever in one another. We passed through a large swamp covered withmangroves--then into a dense tropical bush, passing through an extensivegrove of sago palms and good-sized mango trees. The mangoes weresmall--about the size of a plum--and very sweet. At some distance inlandI took up a peculiar-looking seed; one of the natives, thinking I wasgoing to eat it, very earnestly urged me to throw it away, and with signsgave me to understand that if I ate it I should swell out to an enormoussize, and die. 

We walked about seven miles through bush, and then began the ascent ofone of the spurs of the Astrolabe. On nearing the inland village forwhich we were bound, the natives became somewhat afraid, and the leaderstopped, and, turning to Mr. Lawes, asked him if he would indeed not killany of the people. He was assured all was right, and then he moved on afew paces, to stop again, and re-inquire if all was right. Whenreassured, we all went on, not a word spoken by any one, and so insilence we entered the village. When we were observed, spears beganrattling in the houses; but our party shouted, _Maino_, _maino_ (Peace, peace), _Misi Lao_, _Misi Lao_. The women escaped through the trap-doorsin the floors of their houses, and away down the side of the hill intothe bush. We reached the chief's house, and there remained. 

The people soon regained confidence, and came round us, wondering greatlyat the first white men they had ever seen in their village. The womenreturned from their flight, and began to cook food, which, when ready, they brought to us, and of which we all heartily partook. We gave thempresents, and they would not suffer us to depart till they had brought usa return present of uncooked food. They are a fine, healthy-lookingpeople, lighter than those on the coast. Many were in deep mourning, andfrightfully besmeared. There are a number of villages close by, on thevarious ridges. We returned by a different way, following the bed ofwhat must be in the rainy season a large river. The banks were in manyplaces from eight to nine feet high. 

On the following morning, November 3rd, we weighed anchor and set sail, passing Kapakapa, a double village in the sea. The houses are large andwell built. There are numerous villages on the hills at the back of it, and not too far away to be visited. We anchored off Round Head, whichdoes not, as represented on the charts, rise boldly from the sea. Thereis a plain between two and three miles broad between the sea and the hillcalled Round Head. There are many villages on the hills along this partof the coast. We anchored close to the shore. A number of natives wereon the beach, but could not be induced to visit us on board. We wentashore to them after dinner. They knew Mr. Lawes by name only, andbecame more easy when he assured them that he was really and truly _MisiLao_. They professed friendship by calling out, _Maino_, _maino_, catching hold of their noses, and pointing to their stomachs. After alittle time, two ventured to accompany Mr. Lawes on board, and receivedpresents. I remained ashore astonishing others by striking matches, andshowing off my arms and chest. The women were so frightened that theyall kept at a respectful distance. These are the natives from an inlandvillage that killed a Port Moresby native about the beginning of theyear. When those who accompanied Mr. Lawes on board the _Mayri_ returnedto the shore, they were instantly surrounded by their friends, who seizedthe presents and made off. They had received fish, biscuit, and taro. The taro and fish were smelt all over, and carefully examined beforeeaten. The biscuit was wrapped up again in the paper. 

On Sunday, the 4th, we were beating down through innumerable reefs, andat eight p. M. We anchored about three miles from Hula. The followingmorning we went up to the village, the _Mayri_ anchoring close by thehouses. The country about here looks fine and green, a very strikingcontrast to that around Port Moresby. The further east we get from PortMoresby, the finer the country looks. The people are also superior--finer-made men and women, and really pretty boys and girls--more, altogether, like our eastern South Sea Islanders. The married women spoil theirlooks by keeping their heads shaved. They seem fond of their children:men and women nurse them. They were busy preparing their large canoes tovisit Port Moresby, on the return of the Port Moresby canoes from thewest with sago. 

About three in the afternoon, an old woman made her appearance at thedoor of the mission house, bawling out, "Well, what liars these Hulapeople are; some of them were inland this morning, and the chief askedthem if _Misi Lao_ had come, and they said no. " The chief, who saw thevessel from the hill top where his village is, thought it strange thevessel should be there without _Misi Lao_, so sent this woman to learnthe truth. She received a present for herself and the chief, and wentaway quite happy. 

Next morning, November 6th, we left Hula with a fair wind, and wereanchored close to Kerepunu by nine o'clock. The _Bertha_ was anchoredfully two miles off. Kerepunu is a magnificent place, and its people arevery fine-looking. It is one large town of seven districts, with finehouses, all arranged in streets, crotons and other plants growing about, and cockatoos perching in front of nearly every house. One part of thepopulation plant, another fish, and the planters buy the fish with theirproduce. Men, women, and children are all workers; they go to theirplantations in the morning and return to their homes in the evening, onlysick ones remaining at home; thus accounting for the number of scrofulouspeople we saw going about when we first landed. They have a rule, towhich they strictly adhere all the year round, of working for two daysand resting the third. 

The _Bertha_ arrived here on Friday evening. Mrs. Chalmers was at theforenoon service on the Sunday, and found there a large congregation. Theservice was held on the platform of one of the largest houses. Anederedpreached, a number sitting on the platform, others in the house, otherson the ground all round, and many at the doors of their own houses, wherethey could hear all that was said. 

Mr. Lawes decided to remain at Kerepunu to revise for the press a smallbook Anedered has been preparing, and to follow us to Teste Island in the_Ellengowan_. We left Kerepunu on the morning of November 8th, the_Mayri_ leaving at the same time, to sail down inside the surf. We wentright out to sea, so as to beat down, had fine weather, and were offTeste Island by the 16th. After dinner we took the boat, and with thecaptain went in on the east side of the island through the reef, to soundand find anchorage. 

When we reached the lagoon, a catamaran with three natives on it came offto us. We asked for Koitan, the chief, which at once gave themconfidence in us, so that they came alongside, one getting into the boat. He expressed his friendship to us in the usual way, viz. By touching hisnose and stomach, and, being very much excited, seized hold of Mr. McFarlane and rubbed noses with him, doing the same to me. He received apresent of a piece of hoop-iron and some red braid, which greatly pleasedhim. We found the water was deep enough over the reef for the vessel, and good anchorage inside. We went on to the village, to see about thesupply of water. 

The people were very friendly, and crowded round us. We were led up to aplatform in front of one of their large houses, and there seated andregaled with cocoanuts. The natives here are much darker than are thoseat Kerepunu; most of them suffer from a very offensive-looking skindisease, which causes the skin to peel off in scales. In theirconversation with one another I recognized several Polynesian words. Thewater is obtained by digging in the sand, and is very brackish. 

We came to anchor next morning, and soon were surrounded with canoes, andour deck swarmed with natives trading their curios, yams, cocoanuts, andfish for beads and hoop-iron. Many were swearing friendship, andexchanging names with us, in hopes of getting hoop-iron. There is asgreat a demand for hoop-iron here as for tobacco at Port Moresby. Theytold us they disliked fighting, but delighted in the dance, betel-nut, and sleep. The majority have jet black teeth, which they consider verybeautiful, and all have their noses and ears pierced, with various sortsof nose and ear rings, chiefly made from shell, inserted. A crown piececould easily be put through the lobe of their ears. 

We went ashore in the afternoon. There are three villages, all close toone another. Their houses are built on poles, and are shaped like acanoe turned bottom upwards, others like one in the water. They ornamenttheir houses on the outside with cocoanuts and shells. The nabobs of theplace had skulls on the posts of their houses, which they said belongedto the enemies they had killed and eaten. One skull was very muchfractured; they told us it was done with a stone axe, and showed us howthey used these weapons. 

We tried to explain to them that no one was to come to the vessel thenext day, as it was a sacred day. In the early morning, some canoes cameoff to trade, but we sent them ashore; a few more followed aboutbreakfast-time, which were also sent ashore. In the afternoon, our oldfriend of the preceding day came off, with his wife and two sons. Hecalled out that he did not wish to come on board, but that he had broughtsome cooked food. We accepted his present, and he remained with hisfamily in his canoe alongside the vessel for some time, and then wentquietly ashore. We had three services on board, one in the forenoon inLifuan, in the afternoon in Rarotongan, and in the evening in English. 

As Teste Island is about twenty miles from the mainland, with a dead beatto it, I decided to seek for a position more accessible to New Guinea, and as I had not a teacher to spare for this little island, Mr. McFarlanedecided to leave two of the Loyalty Island teachers here. It is fertile, and appears healthy, is two and a half miles long, and half a mile broad. A ridge of hills runs right through its centre from east-north-east towest-south-west. The natives have some fine plantations on the northside, and on the south and east sides they have yam plantations to thevery tops of the hills. There are plantations and fruit-trees all roundthe island. 

On Monday, I accompanied Mr. McFarlane when he went ashore to makearrangements to land his teachers and secure a house for them. Thepeople seemed pleased that some of our party would remain with them. Mr. McFarlane at once chose a house on a point of land a good way from ourlanding-place, and at the end of the most distant village. The owner waswilling to give up the house until the teachers could build one forthemselves, so it was at once taken and paid for. We came along to ourold friend's place near the landing, when we were told that the housetaken was a very bad one. In the first place, the position wasunhealthy; in the second, that was the point where their enemies fromBasilaki (Moresby Island) always landed when they came to fight, and thepeople could not protect the teachers if so far off when their foes came. All agreed in this, and a fine new house which had never been occupiedwas offered and taken, the same price being paid for it as for the otherone. This house is close to the landing-place, and in the midst of thepeople. The owner of the first house offered to return the things, butwe thought it would not be ruinous to let him keep them, their Englishvalue being about ten shillings. 

We passed a tabooed place, or rather would have done so had we not beenforced to take a circuitous path to the bush. None of the natives spokeas we passed the place, nor till we were clear of it; they made signsalso to us to be silent. A woman had died there lately, and the friendswere still mourning. There had been no dancing in the settlement sincethe death, nor would there be any for some days to come. 

I think women are more respected here than they are in some other heathenlands. They seem to keep fast hold of their own possessions. A manstole an ornament belonging to his wife, and sold it for hoop-iron onboard the _Bertha_. When he went ashore he was met on the beach by hisspouse, who had in the meantime missed her trinket; she assailed him withtongue, stick, and stone, and demanded the hoop-iron. 

The teachers were landed in the afternoon, and were well received. Thenatives all promised to care for them, and treat them kindly. There areabout two hundred and fifty natives on the island. No _Ellengowan_appearing, we determined to leave this on Wednesday, the 21st, and toproceed to Moresby Island. Next morning we left, but, owing to lightwinds, we did not anchor in Hoop-Iron Bay, off Moresby Island, till themorning of the 22nd. The anchorage here is in an open roadstead. It isa very fine island--the vegetation from the water's edge right up to themountain tops. Plantations are to be seen all round. The people live insmall detached companies, and are not so pleasant and friendly-looking apeople as are the Teste islanders. This is the great Basilaki, and thenatives are apparently the deadly foes of all the islanders round. Beforewe anchored, we were surrounded by catamarans (three small logs lashedtogether) and canoes--spears in them all. 

Mr. McFarlane decided, as soon as we came to the island, that he wouldnot land his teachers here; and I did not consider it a suitable place asa head station for New Guinea. We left Moresby Island at six a. M. On the23rd inst. , and beat through Fortescue Straits, between Moresby andBasilisk Islands. The scenery was grand--everything looked so fresh andgreen, very different from the deathlike appearance of Port Moresby andvicinity. The four teachers were close behind us, in their large whale-boat, with part of their things. On getting out of the Straits, we sawEast Cape; but, as there was no anchorage there, we made for KillertonIsland, about ten miles from the Cape. The wind being very light, it waseight p. M. Before we anchored: the boat got up an hour after us. Therewas apparently great excitement ashore; lights were moving about in alldirections, but none came to us. In the morning, a catamaran with twoboys ventured alongside of us; they got a present, and went awayshouting. Soon we were surrounded with catamarans and canoes, with threeor four natives in each. They had no spears with them, nor did they killa dog on our quarter-deck, as they did on that of the _Basilisk_. Theyappeared quite friendly, and free from shyness. They brought theircurios to barter for beads, red cloth, and the much-valued hoop-iron. Thewhole country looked productive and beautiful. After breakfast, we wentashore, and were led through swampy ground to see the water. On ourreturn to the shore, we went in search of a position for the missionsettlement, but could not get one far enough away from the swamp, so wetook the boat and sailed a mile or two nearer the Cape, where we found anexcellent position near a river. Mr. McFarlane obtained a fine new housefor the teachers, in which they are to remain till they get a housebuilt. We took all the teachers' goods ashore, which the natives helpedto carry to the house. One man, who considered himself well dressed, kept near us all day. He had a pair of trousers, minus a leg: hefastened the body of the trousers round his head, and let the leg fallgracefully down his back. 

On the following morning, two large canoes--twenty paddles in each--camein from somewhere about Milne Bay. They remained for some time near theshore, getting all the news they could about us from the shore-folk; thenthe leader amongst them stood up and caught his nose, and pointed to hisstomach--we doing the same. The large canoes went ashore, and the chiefcame off to us in a small one. We gave him a present, which greatlypleased him. After breakfast, we went ashore to hold a service with theteachers. We met under a large tree, near their house. About sixhundred natives were about us, and all round outside of the crowd weremen armed with spears and clubs. Mr. McFarlane preached. When the firsthymn was being sung, a number of women and children got up and ran intothe bush. The service was short; at its close we sat down and sanghymns, which seemed to amuse them greatly. The painted and armed menwere not at all pleasant-looking fellows. 

At two in the morning (Monday), we weighed anchor and returned to MoresbyIsland. The wind was very light, and we had to anchor at the entrance toFortescue Straits. Next morning, we sailed through the Straits, and, oncoming out on the opposite side, we were glad to see the _Bertha_ beatingabout there. By noon we were on board the _Bertha_, and off for SouthCape, the _Mayri_ going to Teste Island with a letter, telling thecaptain of the _Ellengowan_ to follow us, and also to see if the teacherswere all right. 

By evening we were well up to South Cape. The captain did not care toget too near that night, and stood away till morning. About ten nextmorning I accompanied the captain in the boat, to sound and look foranchorage, which we found in twenty-two fathoms, near South-West Point. By half-past fire that evening we anchored. The excitement ashore wasgreat, and before the anchor was really down we were surrounded bycanoes. As a people, they are small and puny, and much darker than theEastern Polynesians. They were greatly excited over Pi's baby, a fineplump little fellow, seven months old, who, beside them, seemed a whitechild. Indeed, all they saw greatly astonished them. Canoes came off tous very early in the morning. About half-past seven, when we were readyto go ashore, there arose great consternation amongst the natives. Threelarge war canoes, with conch-shells blowing, appeared off the mainlandand paddled across the Mayri Straits. Soon a large war canoe appearednear the vessel. A great many small canoes from various parts of themainland were ordered off by those on whose side we were anchored. Theyhad to leave. On their departure a great shout was raised by thevictorious party, and in a short time all returned quietly to theirbartering. It seemed that the Stacy Islanders wished to keep all thebartering to themselves. They did not wish the rest to obtain hoop-ironor any other foreign wealth. They are at feud with one party on themainland, and I suppose in their late contests have been victorious, forthey told us with great exultation that they had lately killed and eatenten of their enemies from the mainland. 

About nine, we went ashore near the anchorage. I crossed the island tothe village, but did not feel satisfied as to the position. One of ourguides to the village wore, as an armlet, the jawbone of a man from themainland he had killed and eaten; others strutted about with human bonesdangling from their hair, and about their necks. It is only the villageTepauri on the mainland with which they are unfriendly. We returned tothe boat, and sailed along the coast. On turning a cape, we came to apretty village, on a well-wooded point. The people were friendly, andled us to see the water, of which there is a good supply. This is thespot for which we have been in search as a station for beginning work. Wecan go anywhere from here, and are surrounded by villages. The mainlandis not more than a gunshot across. God has led us. We made arrangementsfor a house for the teachers; then returned to the vessel. 

In the afternoon, I landed the teachers, their wives, and part of theirgoods--the people helping to carry the stuff to the house. The house inwhich the teachers are to reside till our own is finished is the largestin the place, but they can only get the use of one end of it--the owner, who considers himself the chief man of the place, requiring the other endfor himself and family. The partition between the two ends is only twofeet high. Skulls, shells, and cocoanuts are hung all about the house;the skulls are those of the enemies he and his people have eaten. Insidethe house, hung up on the wall, is a very large collection of humanbones, bones of animals and of fish. 

I selected a spot for our house on the point of land nearest themainland. It is a large sand hill, and well wooded at the back. We havea good piece of land, with bread-fruit and other fruit trees on it, whichI hope soon to have cleared and planted with food, for the benefit of theteachers who may be here awaiting their stations, as well as for theteacher for the place. The frontage is the Straits, with the mainlandright opposite. There is a fine anchorage close to the house for vesselsof any size. 

Early next morning there was great excitement ashore. The large warcanoe came off, with drums beating and men dancing. They came alongsidethe _Bertha_, and presented us with a small pig and food. Then the mencame on board and danced. The captain gave them a return present. Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore immediately after breakfast, and found thatthe teachers had been kindly treated. We gave some natives a few axes, who at once set off to cut wood for the house, and before we returned tothe vessel in the evening two posts were up. As the _Bertha's_ time wasup, and the season for the trade winds closing, everything was done toget on with the house. Mr. McFarlane worked well. Two men from the_Bertha_, and two from the _Mayri_ joined with the four teachers in thework, and by Tuesday the framework was nearly up. We landed our thingsthat day, and immediately after breakfast on Wednesday, December 5th, wewent ashore to reside; and about ten a. M. The _Bertha_ left. On theTuesday, Mr. McFarlane and I visited several villages on the mainland:three in a deep bay, which must be very unhealthy, from the many swampsand high mountains around. The people appeared friendly, and got veryexcited over the presents we gave them. 

We got an old foretopsail from the captain, which we rigged up as a tent, in which the teachers slept, we occupying their quarters. We enjoyed agood night's rest. In early morning the house was surrounded withnatives, many of whom were armed. They must wonder at our staying here:they consider our goods to consist entirely of hoop-iron, axes, knives, and arrowroot. About eleven a. M. The war canoes were launched on theopposite side of the water. The excitement here was then great. I met alad running with painted skulls to the war canoe of the village. Soon itwas decorated with skulls, shells, cocoanuts, and streamers, andlaunched. Those on the opposite side came out into the deep bay; oursremained stationary till the afternoon, when about thirty men got intoher, and away towards Farm Bay to trade their hoop-iron for sago. 

On Sunday, we met for our usual public services under a large tree, and anumber of natives attended, who of course could not make out what wassaid, as they were conducted in Rarotongan. At our morning and eveningprayers numbers are always about who seem to enjoy the singing. We seequite a number of strangers every day--some from Brumer Island, Tissot, Teste, China Straits, Catamaran Bay, Farm Bay, and other places. Thosefrom Vakavaka--a place over by China Straits--are lighter andbetter-looking than those here. The women there do not seem to tattoothemselves. Here they tattoo themselves all over their faces and bodies, and make themselves look very ugly. I have not seen one large man orwoman amongst them all. 

We had much difficulty in getting a sufficient supply of plaited cocoanutleaves for the walls and roof of our house. By the 14th, we had thewalls and roof finished, when all our party moved into it. We had acurtain of unbleached calico put up between the teachers' end and ours, and curtains for doors and windows, but were glad to get into it in thatunfinished state: the weather was breaking, and we felt anxious about theteachers sleeping in the tent when it rained, and we had no privacy atall where we were, and were tired of squatting on the ground, for wecould not get a chair in our part of the house; indeed, the flooring wasof such a construction that the legs of a chair or table would have soongone through it. On the 13th, we were busy getting the wood we had cutfor the flooring of our house into the sea to be rafted along; got tenlarge pieces into the water by breakfast-time. 

After breakfast, Mrs. Chalmers and I were at the new house, with thecaptain of the _Mayri_, when we heard a noise like quarrelling. Onlooking out, I saw the natives very excited, and many of them runningwith spears and clubs towards the house where Mrs. Chalmers, about fiveminutes before, had left the teachers rising from breakfast. I hastenedover, and pushed my way amongst the natives till I got to the front, when, to my horror, I was right in front of a gun aimed by one of the_Mayri's_ crew (who had been helping us with the house) at a young manbrandishing a spear. The aim was perfect: had the gun been fired--as itwould have been had I not arrived in time--the native would have beenshot dead. I pushed the native aside, and ordered the gun to be putdown, and turned to the natives, shouting, _Besi_, _besi_! (Enough, enough!). Some of them returned their spears and clubs, but othersremained threatening. I spoke to our party against using firearms, andthen I caught the youth who was flourishing his spear, and withdifficulty got it from him. Poor fellow, he cried with rage, yet he didme no harm. I clapped him, and got him to go away. All day he sat undera tree, which we had frequently to pass, but he would have nothing to sayto us. It seems a knife had been stolen, and he being the only one aboutthe house when it was missed, was accused of taking it. One of theteachers was winding line, and he caught the young fellow by the arm toinquire about the knife. The lad thought he was going to be tied up withthe line; he struggled, got free, and raised the alarm. 

Only the night before I had to warn the teachers against using firearmsto alarm or threaten the natives. An axe was stolen; every place aboutwas searched for it, and for some time without its being found. At last, a native found it buried in the sand near where it was last used. It hadevidently been hidden there till a favourable opportunity should occur oftaking it away. During the search, the owner of the axe (one of theteachers) ran off for his gun, and came rushing over with it. I orderedhim to take it back, and in the evening told them it was only in NewGuinea that guns were used by missionaries. It was not so in any othermission I knew of, and if we could not live amongst the natives withoutarms, we had better remain at home; and if I saw arms used again by themfor anything, except birds, or the like, I should have the whole of themthrown into the sea. 

In the afternoon of the 14th, I went over to the house in which we hadbeen staying, to stir up the teachers to get the things over morequickly; Mrs. Chalmers remaining at the new house to look after thethings there, as, without doors or flooring, everything was exposed. Iwent to the seaside to call to the captain of the _Mayri_ to send us theboat ashore, when, on looking towards my left, I saw twenty armed nativeshurrying along. Though painted, I recognized some of them as those whowere very friendly on board the _Bertha_, and spoke to them; but theyhurried past, frowning and saying something I did not understand. Theywent straight on to the chief's house, and surrounded our party. Ipassed through, and stood in front of them. One very ugly-lookingcustomer was brandishing his spear close by me. It was an anxiousmoment, and one in which I am sure many would have used firearms. Icalled out to the teachers, "Remain quiet. " Our chief sprung out on tothe platform in front of the house and harangued. He was very excited. Shortly he called to the teachers, in signs and words, to bring out theirguns and fire. They refused. He then rushed into the house and seized agun, and was making off with it, when one of the teachers caught hold ofhim. I, seeing the teacher with the chief, thought something was wrong, and went to them. We quieted him, and did our best to explain to himthat we were no fighters, but men of peace. The babel all round us wasterrible. By-and-by a request was made to me to give the chief from theother side a present, and get him away. I said, "No; had he come inpeace, and as a chief, I would have given him a present, but I will notdo so now. " They retired to deliberate, and sent another request for apresent. "No; no presents to men in arms. If the chief returnsto-morrow unarmed, he will get a present. " It seems they are vexed withour living here instead of with them, because they find those here aregetting what they consider very rich by our living with them. When quietwas restored, we returned to the carrying of our things. When we came tothe last few things, our chief objected to their removal until he got afarewell present. He had been paid for the use of the house before anyof us entered it; but we gave him another present, and so finished thebusiness. 

Our large cross-cut saw was stolen during the hubbub. It belonged to theteachers of East Cape. It had only been lent to us, so we had to get itback. The next morning the chief from the other side came to see me. Hereceived a present, and looked particularly sheepish when I tried toexplain to him that we did not like fighting. All day I took care toshow that I was very displeased at the loss of the saw, and by theevening I was told that it had been taken by those on the other side; andoffers of returning it were made, but I saw I was expected to buy it fromthem. I said, "No; I will not buy what was stolen from me; the saw mustbe returned, and I will give an axe to the one who goes for it, andfetches it to me. "

The following day, Sunday, the 15th, we held the usual services under alarge tree near the mission house; a great many strangers present; thelatter were very troublesome. On Monday afternoon the saw was returned. The _Mayri_ left us that day, to visit the teachers at East Cape. Thepeople are getting quieter. At present they are chiefly interested inthe sawing of the wood for the flooring of the house. They workwillingly for a piece of hoop-iron and a few beads, but cannot do muchcontinuously. They seem to have no kind of worship, and their sports arefew. The children swing, bathe, and sail small canoes. The grown-uppeople have their dance--a very poor sort of thing. A band of youths, with drums, stand close together, and in a most monotonous tone singwhilst they beat the drums. The dancers dance round the men once ortwice, and all stop to rest a bit. I have been twice present when onlythe women danced. They bury their dead, and place houses over thegraves, which they fence round, planting crotons, bananas, etc. , inside. They do their cooking inside their houses. It was very hot anduncomfortable when we were in the native house. The master being a sortof chief, and having a large household, a great deal of cooking wasrequired. Three large fires were generally burning in their end of thehouse for the greater part of the day. The heat and smoke from thesefires were not nice. Indeed, they generally had one or two burning allnight, to serve for blankets, I suppose. 

[Natives of South-Eastern New Guinea: 59. Jpg]

We went on with our work about the place, getting on well with thenatives and with those from other parts. We became so friendly with thenatives that I had hoped to go about with them in their canoes. Severalnatives from one of the settlements invited me to visit their place, andsaid if I went with them in their canoe they would return me. I wentwith them, and was well received by all the people at the settlement, where I spent some hours. On the 21st of December, the _Mayri_ returnedfrom East Cape, and reported that all were sick, but that the people werevery friendly and kind to teachers. Anxious to keep the vessel employed, and to prepare the way for landing teachers, I resolved to visit asettlement on the mainland at deadly feud with this people. The peoplehere tried hard to dissuade me from going, telling me that, as I stayedwith them, my head would be cut off. Seeing me determined to go, theybrought skulls, saying, mine would be like that, to adorn their enemies'war canoe, or hang outside the chief's house. Feeling sure that they didnot wish me to go because they were afraid the hoop-iron, the knives, axes, beads, and cloth might also be distributed on the other side, Itold them I must go; so they left me to my fate. 

I took the teacher with me that I hoped to leave there. We were receivedvery kindly by the people. They led us inland, to show us there waswater, and when we got back to the seaside they regaled us with sugar-cane and cocoanuts. They then told us that they did not live at thevillage, but at the next, and merely came here for food. We then gotinto a canoe, and were paddled up to the other village, where a greatcrowd assembled, and where we publicly gave the chiefs our presents. Theydanced with delight, and told the teacher not to be long until he came toreside with them. 

On our return we thought our friends seemed disappointed. We hadsuffered no harm; however, as I had been unwell for some days, and feltworse on the day following my trip, they felt comforted, and assured meit was because of our visiting Tepauri. We had several things stolen, and amongst other things a camp oven, which we miss much. Yet these arethings which must be borne, and we can hope that some day their stealingpropensities will change. From a very unexpected source, and in a veryunexpected manner, the whole prospects of this eastern mission seemed allat once to be upset. I do not think I can do better than extract myjournal for the next few days. 

_December_ 29_th_. --About twelve o'clock three lads from the _Mayri_ cameashore to cut firewood. One of them came to me, saying, "I 'fraid, sir, our captain he too fast with natives. One big fellow he come on board, and he sit down below. Captain he tell him get up; he no get up. Captainhe get sword, and he tell him, s'pose he no get up he cut head off; heget up, go ashore. I fear he no all right. " They left me and wenttowards the sawpit. Some men were clearing at the back of my house, somewere putting up a cook-house, and the teachers were sawing wood. On thecook-house being finished, I was paying the men, when, on hearing a greatnoise, I rose up and saw those who were at the sawpit running away andleaping the fence, and heard firing as if from the vessel. I rushed intothe house with my bag, and then out to see what it was. I saw natives onboard the _Mayri_, and some in canoes; they were getting the hawserashore, and pulling up the anchor, no doubt to take the vessel. Everywhere natives were appearing, some armed, and others unarmed. Twoof the lads from the vessel, wishing to get on board, went to their boat, but found the natives would not let it go. I shouted to the nativesdetaining it to let it go, which they did. Had I not been near, theywould certainly have been fired upon by the two lads, who were armed withmuskets. Before the boat got to the vessel I saw natives jump overboard, and soon the firing became brisker. I rushed along the beach, callingupon the natives to get into the bush, and to those on board to ceasefiring. Firing ceased, and soon I heard great wailing at the chief'shouse, where I was pressed to go. A man was shot through the leg andarm. On running through the village to the house, to get something forthe wounded man, I was stopped to see a young man bleeding profusely, shot through the left arm, the bullet entering the chest. I got somemedicine and applied it to both. 

When I reached the house, I found Mrs. Chalmers the only calm personthere. Natives were all around armed. When at the chief's house withmedicine I was told there was still another, and he was on board. Theykept shouting "Bocasi, Bocasi, " the name of the man who was on board inthe morning. I found a small canoe all over blood, and two nativespaddled me off. On getting alongside, I saw the captain sitting on deck, looking very white, and blood all about him. I asked, "Is there still aman on board?" Answer: "Yes. " "Is he shot?" "Yes. " "Dead?" "Yes. " Hewas dead, and lying below. I was afraid to remain long on board, andwould not risk landing with the body; nor would it do for the body to belanded before me, as then I might be prevented from landing at all; so Igot into the canoe, in which one native was sitting. The other wasgetting the body to place in the canoe; but I said, "Not in this one, buta larger one. " So ashore I went, and hastened to the house. Iunderstood the captain to say that they attempted to take his life, andthis big man, armed with a large sugar-cane knife, was coming close up, and he shot him dead. The captain's foot was frightfully cut. He had aspear-head in his side, and several other wounds. 

The principal people seemed friendly, and kept assuring us that all wasright, we should not be harmed. Great was the wailing when the body waslanded, and arms were up and down pretty frequently. Canoes began tocrowd in from the regions around. A man who has all along been veryfriendly and kept close by us advised us strongly to leave during thenight, as, assuredly, when the war canoes from the different parts camein, we should be murdered. Mrs. Chalmers decidedly opposed our leaving. God would protect us. The vessel was too small, and not provisioned, andto leave would be losing our position as well as endangering Teste andEast Cape. We came here for Christ's work, and He would protect us. 

In the dusk, one of the crew came ashore, saying that the captain wasvery ill, and wanted to go off to Murray Island. I could not go onboard, and leave them here. We consented to the vessel's leaving, and Igave the lad some medicine for the captain, and asked him to send onshore all he could spare in the way of beads, etc. I took all that wasnecessary, and about half-past seven the vessel left. We were told weshould have to pay something to smooth over the trouble, which we werequite willing to do. Late at night we had things ready. We had ourevening prayers in Rarotongan, reading Psalm xlvi. , and feeling that Godwas truly our refuge. 

People were early about on the 30th. We gave the things which wereprepared, and they were accepted. The people from the settlement towhich the man belonged who was shot came to attack us, but the peoplehere ordered them back. Many people came in from islands and mainland. Anumber of so-called chiefs tell us no one will injure us, and that we cango on with our work. We thought it not well to have services out ofdoors to-day, so held prayer-meetings in the house. 

Great crowds came in from all round on the 31st, and many war canoes. Thepeople were extremely impudent, jumping the fence, and taking no heed ofwhat we said. One of the chief men of the settlement to which the manwho was shot belongs returned from Vaare (Teste Island). He seemedfriendly, and I gave him a present. 

I had an invitation to attend a cannibal feast at one of the settlements. Some said it would consist of two men and a child, others of five and achild. 

The people continued troublesome all day, and seemed to think we hadnothing else to do than attend to their demands. 

_January_ 1_st_, 1878. --We were told we might be attacked. There was agreat wailing assembly at the other village. A canoe from Tanosine, witha great many ugly-looking men, passed, and our friends here seemed tofear they would attack us. We thought everything settled, and that weshould have no more to pay. The warp belonging to the _Mayri_ wascarried past to-day and offered for sale; but I would have nothing to dowith it. We have tried the meek and quiet up till now, and they onlybecome more impudent and threatening. 

Having tried the peaceful and pleasant, we determined to show the nativesthat we were not afraid, and resisted every demand, and insisted thatthere should be no more leaping the fence. On demands being made, Ishouted, "No more; wait, and when Beritama fighting canoe comes, thenmake your demands. " They seemed afraid, and became less troublesome. 

In the afternoon of January 2nd, the parties who have the hawser broughtit to me; but I would have nothing to do with it. I told them ifPouairo, the settlement of the man who was shot, determines to attack us, let them come, we, too, can fight. One of the teachers fired off his gunat some distance from a bread-fruit tree, and the bullet went cleanthrough a limb of it; it caused great exclamations, and crowds went tolook at it. 

The hawser was returned and left outside. We took no notice of it. Thepeople were much quieter, and no demands were made. The cannibal feastwas held. Some of our friends appeared with pieces of human fleshdangling from their neck and arms. The child was spared for a futuretime, it being considered too small. Amidst all the troubles Mrs. Chalmers was the only one who kept calm and well. 

The _Ellengowan_ arrived on January 20th. The natives were beginning tothink no vessel would come; but when it arrived, they were frightened, and willing to forget the _Mayri_ affair. A few days before she arrivedsome of our friends warned us against going too far away from the house. After her arrival we were able to go about among the people again. 

CHAPTER II. A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 

Start eastwards from Heath Island--Naroopoo--Trading with Natives--Landingat Roux Island--Interview with the Chief--The Man with the club--Effectof a gunshot on the natives--Ellengowan Bay--Narrow Escape--The steam-whistle useful--Attempt to go inland unsuccessful--Amazons--Women chiefinstigators of quarrels--Toulon Island--The real "Amazons' Land"--How thereport arose--Cloudy Bay--Interview with the Chief--Sandbank Bay--Ahurried time--Dufaure Island--Attack on Mr. Chalmers by Aromanatives--Defended by some of the natives--Attack due to evil conduct ofwhite men--Intentions of the natives--Heathencustoms--Pigs--Planting--Trading--Sickness. 

The _Ellengowan_ had been thoroughly refitted at Sydney; and in thespring of 1878, accompanied by my wife, I embarked on a cruise from eastto west along the south coast of New Guinea. The little steamer wascommanded by Captain Dudfield, and manned by an efficient native crew. Communication was held with some two hundred villages, one hundred andfive were personally visited, and ninety for the first time by a whiteman. Several bays, harbours, rivers, and islands were discovered andnamed; the country between Meikle and Orangerie Bays, together with thatlying at the back of Kerepunu was explored, and the entire coast linefrom Keppel Point to McFarlane Harbour, traversed on foot. 

In travelling through a new country, it is impossible not to have manyexperiences that may interest those at home, although to the travellerthey may seem of little moment. In May, 1878, I began my journeys on NewGuinea, in parts hereto unknown, and amongst tribes supposed to behostile. I resolved, come what might, to travel unarmed, trusting to Himin whose work I was engaged, and feeling that no harm could come to mewhile in His care. 

On leaving Heath Island, we really began on new and little-known seas andcountry, and we first anchored in a bay we called Inverary Bay. Onlanding, we were met by a few men, the others coming out with goods andchattels. We steamed round by the Leocadie, through what forms a goodharbour for small vessels, and over by the sandbanks in Catamaran Bay. Wecalled at Tanosina, to the east of the Leocadie, landing with caution, asthese people had been rather troublesome on our first arrival at SouthCape, and were very anxious to avenge the man shot on board the _Mayri_. They did not receive us heartily, and seemed inclined to be impudent, soI thought it best, after giving one or two presents, to get quietly tothe boat and away. I may here say that in after-times these people werevery friendly, and helped us much in our work. We visited all round thebay, returning to South Cape. 

After getting a supply of water and fuel on board, we started again, going east round Rugged Head to Farm Bay, and well up to the head of thebay, anchoring opposite to Naroopoo. I landed, and soon had an admiringcrowd round me. I was dressed in white, with black leather boots. Sitting on a verandah, some, more daring than others, would come up, touch my shirt and trousers, bite their fingers, and run away. Again andagain this was done by the bold ones, who always eyed my boots. Afterconsultation, one old woman mustered courage, came up, touched mytrousers, and finally my boots. She was trembling all over, but horrorof horrors, to add to her fear, lifting my foot, I pulled my boot off;she screamed and ran, some others setting out with her, and did not stopuntil quite out of sight. 

After visiting several villages, and finding that the bay was thicklypopulated, I went on board. The following morning many canoes camealongside, and on our getting up steam were much afraid. It was evidentthey wanted to show us that they had confidence in us, but it wasdifficult with the steam up, the snorting and general commotion on boardbeing so great. We warned them on getting up anchor to clear off. Whyshould they? There was no sail, nor were we going to move. A commotionaft, canoes with crews clearing away to a very safe distance. One canoehanging on is pulled under, a wild shout, a moment's silence, and thenthere is a loud roar of laughter, when they see canoe and paddlers appearastern at some distance. We rounded One Tree Point and could see noentrance to a bay, just a few miles beyond, but since explored and namedLawes Bay. Keeping on, we anchored outside of the Roux Islands, in afine safe harbour. Before leaving our friends at South Cape, they wereboasting of having visited some place on the coast, where, on showingtheir large knives, the natives all left, they helping themselves to agood many things. 

We had some difficulty in getting a canoe to come alongside, and it wasnot until we had fastened a piece of red cloth to a stick and floated itastern, that the first canoe would come near. The natives approached, picked up the red cloth, and in showing them pieces of hoop-iron, theygradually came near enough to take hold of a piece, look well at it, andfinally decide to come alongside. Once alongside we were soonfraternizing, and on seeing this other canoes came off, and trading forcurios began. Asking the captain to keep on trading as long as possible, I hastened ashore, to see the chief of one of the villages. As long astrading canoes remain alongside, the parties landing are perfectly safe;care should be taken to get away as soon as possible after the canoesleave the vessel. 

The tide was far out when our boat touched the beach. A crowd met us, and in every hand was a club or spear. I went on to the bow, to springashore, but was warned not to land. I told them I had come to see thechief, had a present for him, and must see him. 

"Give us your present, and we will give it to him, but you must notland. "

"I am Tamate, from Suau, and have come as a friend to visit your oldchief, and I must land. "

An elderly woman came close up to the boat, saying, "You must not land, but I will take the present, or, " pointing to a young man close by, "hewill take it for his father, " he being the chief's son. 

"No; I must see the chief for myself; but the son I should also like toknow, and will give him a present too. "

Springing ashore, followed by the mate, a fine, daring fellow, muchaccustomed to roughing it on the diggings, and not the least afraid ofnatives, I walked up the long beach to the village, to the chief's house. The old man was seated on the platform in front of the house, and did noteven deign to rise to receive us. I told him who I was, and the objectof my coming. He heard me through, and treated the whole as stale news. I placed my present on the platform in front of him, and waited for someword of satisfaction; but none escaped the stern old chieftain. Presentsof beads were handed to little children in arms, but indignantlyreturned. Loud laughing in the outskirts of crowd and little jostling. 

"Gould, " said I to the mate, "I think we had better get away from here;keep eyes all round, and let us make quietly to the beach. "

To the chief I said, "Friend, I am going; you stay. " Lifting hiseyebrows, he said, "Go. "

We were followed by the crowd, one man with a large round club walkingbehind me, and uncomfortably near. Had I that club in my hand, I shouldfeel a little more comfortable. When on the beach we saw the canoes hadleft the vessel, and were hurrying ashore; our boat was soon afloat, still, we had some distance to go. I must have that club, or I fear thatclub will have me. I had a large piece of hoop-iron, such as is highlyprized by the natives, in my satchel; taking it, I wheeled quickly round, presented it to the savage, whose eyes were dazzled as with a bar ofgold. With my left hand I caught the club, and before he becameconscious of what was done I was heading the procession, armed as asavage, and a good deal more comfortable. We got safely away. 

From Fyfe Bay we went round to Meikle Bay, where I visited all thevillages, and was well received. Before landing I decided to walkinland, and see for myself if there was no arm of the sea running up atthe back. The charts showed no such thing, but I felt sure, from theformation of the land and the manner of clouds hanging over it, thatthere must be a lake or some large sheet of water, and that there must beconsiderable streams carrying off the water of the Lorne Range and CloudyMountains, as no stream of any size came to the sea on the coast-side. Igot the chief of the village at the head of the bay and a large followingto show us the way. We travelled for some miles through good country, and at last came out opposite a large sheet of water, stretching well uptowards Cloudy Mountain and away towards the head of Milne Bay. Seeingthe Stirling Range, I was able to take a few positions. 

Our mate, who had his fowling-piece with him, saw a very pretty parrot ona cocoanut tree. He approached until close under--the natives, aboutforty in number, standing breathlessly round, and wondering what wasgoing to happen. Bang! Down dropped the parrot; a wail, hands to ears, a shout, and we were left alone with the chief, who happened to bestanding close by me. Those natives only ceased running when theyreached their homes. 

We visited several villages, and at sundown returned. In the dark wetravelled along the bed of a creek, passing small villages, whoseinhabitants were terribly alarmed, but none more so than our chief. Poorfellow, he _was_ frightened. How nimbly he ascended his platform on ourarrival at his house, where his two wives were crying, but now rejoicedto see him in the body. Long ago the escort had returned with a terribletale, and they feared whether their husband could have lived through itall. But he was now considered a veritable hero, to be sung in song andshouted in dance. Friends gather round; he tells his tale; presents thebird; the wives examine it, then the crowd of relatives. He afraid! ohdear no! But he looked pale for a native, and no quantity of hoop-ironwould induce him to move from that platform and the side of those dearwives that night. Enough for one day, one month, one year, so, "Good-bye, Tamate; I shall be off in the morning to see you. " Arriving onboard late, we were welcome: they feared we had been spirited away. 

The following day we got round to Ellengowan Bay. After visiting all thevillages, I went right up to the head of the bay to see Silo and itschief. The tide was very low, and after pulling the boat some distancethrough mud we left her in charge of the two rowers, the mate and I goingto the village. He had hoop-iron cut in seven-inch lengths in hispockets. The old chief received us graciously, and began giving me along story of what he wished to do in the way of pigs and food, if Iwould only stay two days. It was a sickly looking hole, and not beingquite rid of fever, I hoped to get on board and away in an hour. A largecrowd gathered round, all under arms, very noisy, and certainly notgentle. A slight scuffle took place, but was soon over. The mate missedsome of his hoop-iron, caught one young man with a piece, and took itfrom him. The crowd increased. I told the chief I should prefer hispeople unarmed, and not so noisy. He spoke to them, some put down theirclubs and spears; but they were hidden in the bush close by. We bade thechief good-bye, but he expressed a great wish to see me in the boat. Apparently with great carelessness, we made towards the beach, attendedby a noisy crowd, all arms now picked up. Remembering the difficulty wehad in landing, and knowing savages preferred killing out of their ownvillages, hospitality having ended when friends left the precincts, Idetermined not to have that crowd near the boat. I asked the chief tosend them back; but to him they would not listen, and still the noisycrowd followed on. I shouted to them to return, and not come troublingus, as we were getting into the boat. No use; on they followed, and theboat they meant to visit. I stood still, and not feeling particularlycheerful, I told them to go on, and go off to the vessel--that I shouldwait and return to the village. Stamping my foot, as if in a toweringpassion, I told the chief, "Go with all your people to the boat; as forme, I shall return. " It had the desired effect. The people fled, andthe few who remained listened to the old man, and came no further. Wegot to the boat and away, glad to escape without any unpleasantness. 

Entering Orangerie Bay, we anchored off the village of Daunai, from whichthe whole district takes its name. When here, our Chinese cook lost hisknife, and, spotting the thief, determined to have it; but our captainprevented him from jumping into one of the canoes, and so avoidedtrouble. There were over one hundred canoes round the vessel, andaltogether over four hundred men. 

We stopped all trading, and frightened the canoes away by blowing thesteam whistle--they were much afraid of it, and kept at a very respectfuldistance. 

We went up the long sheet of water we saw when we crossed Meikle Bay, finding it in every way suited to its native name, Paroai, or piggishwater, and quite useless as a harbour for anything larger than anordinary boat. I went ashore in one of the canoes, to be landed atBootu, and walk across to Milne Bay. Before leaving the vessel I engagedwith the natives to take me right away to the head of the lagoon, andwhen I had seen Milne Bay, to return me to the vessel, when they would bepaid for all their trouble. So with our bags and a few eatables, westarted; when about a mile away from the vessel, they headed the canoemore in towards the right shore, and no amount of talk in calmness orwrath would get them to do otherwise. We touched at a place not far froma village we visited overland--some left us, and we were certainly nowtoo weak to proceed. We ran down to the village, where we landed with mybag, and away went my native canoe men. Love or money would not move thevillagers, and they were exceedingly impudent, knowing well that we werequite in their hands. My friend the mate, who insisted on accompanyingme, agreed with me that things were rather out of the common with us, andthat a sharp eye, and quick ear, and quick action were of someimportance. They at once went to get their clubs and spears, and beggedand insisted on presents; but they were astonished, I doubt not, to findtheir begging of little avail. 

"Go to the vessel, if you want presents. "

"Why are you anchored so far off?"

"Can't get nearer, and only wish you would show me the way in close tohere. "

Pointing to a passage close in shore, I suggested they had better take usoff, and we would try and get her round when the tide rose; but to thisthey objected, and instead of becoming more friendly, it seemed to usthey were just going the other way; but that may have been merely as wethought, looking at them through coloured glasses, suspicion, and acertain mixture of doubt if ever we should again see the vessel. A fewmen came running along the beach. I met them, and hurriedly asked themto take us off when they would have hoop-iron and beads. 

"Yes. "

"Quick! do not let them think! Into the nearest canoe. "

Away in the distance those in the village were shouting andgesticulating. 

"Come back! Come back, at once. "

"Oh no, my friends; pull, you must pull!" and while they are discussingwe are paddling. I tell them it would be dangerous to attempt goingback. On we go, beyond small islands in sight of vessel, and now theygive up speaking of returning. We got off, and I paid the fellows well. Anxious to get in, we tried in many places at high tide to enter theshore channel, but all was useless. For several miles we were sailingdeep in mud, unable to work the engine. A canoe came near, and I toldthem to inform those ashore that we could not get in. 

At Port Glasgow, the people cleared out, bag and baggage, leaving us inquiet possession. At Port Moresby, I had heard of a woman's land, a landwhere only women--perfect Amazons--lived and ruled. These ladies werereported to be excellent tillers of the soil, splendid canoeists insailing or paddling, and quite able to hold their own against attacks ofthe sterner sex, who sometimes tried to invade their country. At theEast End they knew nothing of this woman's land, and nowhere east of Hulahave I ever heard it spoken of. 

To find so interesting a community was of great moment, and everywhere wewent we inquired, but only to be laughed at by the natives; sometimesasked by them, "How do they continue to exist?" But that, too, puzzledus. As no part of the coast from East Cape to Port Moresby would be leftunvisited by us, we were certain to come across the Amazonian settlement, and when we did, it would be useful to keep a sharp look-out, as I havenoticed that the instigators of nearly all quarrels are the women. Ihave seen at South Cape, when the men were inclined to remain quiet, thewomen rush out, and, as if filled with devils, incite them. Just afterthe attack on the _Mayri_, and when I was going about the settlementattending to the wounded, I heard the women call loudly for vengeance, and, because the men would not at once heed them, throw their shields onthe ground and batter them with stones, then pull their hair, and tellthe men they were only poor weak cowards. 

We heard that Mailiukolo (Toulon) canoes with women were more numerous, and some very large ones with women alone. In the early morning we wereoff the island, and soon ready to land. On crossing the reef we met twocanoes, one with men and one with women. We signed to them to go to thevessel, whilst we pulled up to the large village on the north side. Asthe boat touched the fine hard sandy beach, a man, the only being insight, ran down and stood in front. I went forward to spring ashore, buthe said I must not. Finding he knew the Daunai dialect, I said to him, Imust land; that I was a friend, and gave him my name, which he alreadyknew from the east. I gave him a strip of red cloth and stepped ashore, when he ran away into the bush. At our first approach I could only seethis one man, but now I saw hundreds of grass petticoats on womenstanding under the houses. I could not see the upper parts of theirbodies, only the petticoats and feet. They were indeed quiet until Iadvanced nearer, when one wild scream was given that would try strongernerves than mine, and signs to keep away. It required moreinquisitiveness than I possessed to proceed. I retired a few paces, warning the boat's crew to keep a good look-out, and especially from thebush end of the village, where the man ran to. I invited the duskydamsels to come to me, if they objected to my visiting them; but no, Imust return whence I came; they had seen me, that was enough. 

"No, my friends; we must meet, and you will have some presents. "

I held up beads and red cloth, but, strange to say, they seemed to haveno effect on that curious crowd. I never saw so many women together. Howwere we to meet? was now the question; to be baulked by them would neverdo. I threw on the beach a piece of red cloth and a few beads; walkedaway quite carelessly, and apparently not noticing what was taking place. A girl steals out from the crowd, stops, turns, eyes fixed on me;advances, stops, crosses her hands, pressing her breast. Poor thing! notcourage enough; so, lightning speed, back. It is evident the old ladiesobject to the younger ones attempting, and they are themselves toofrightened. Another young damsel about nine or ten years old comes out, runs, halts, walks cat-like, lest the touch of her feet on the sandshould waken me from my reverie; another halt, holds her chest, lest thespirit should take its flight or the pattering heart jump right out. Ifear it was beyond the slight patter then, and had reached the stentorianthump of serious times. On; a rush; well done! She picks cloth andbeads up. 

I have gained my point, and will soon have the crowds--no need to wait solong to have the baits picked up now, and, after a few more suchtemptings, it is done. I am besieged by the noisest crowd I have evermet, and am truly glad to escape on board the boat. We went to thevessel, and brought her round to the west side, where we anchored, and Iagain landed. Crowds met me on the beach, but no men. I gave my beadsindiscriminately, and soon there was a quarrel between the old ladies andyoung ones. The latter were ordered off, and, because they would not go, I must go. The old ladies insisted on my getting into the boat, and, being now assisted by the few men we met in the canoe, I thought itbetter to comply. Long after we left the beach we heard those oldcracked, crabbed voices anathematizing the younger members of thatcommunity. I suppose I was the first white mortal to land on that sacredshore, and I must have been to them a strange object indeed. 

I am fully convinced that this is the Woman's Land, and can easilyaccount for its being called so by stray canoes from the westward. 

After leaving the island, we steamed round to the westward of the smallislands in Amazon Bay, where we intended to spend a quiet Sabbath after ahard week's work, and previous to beginning another. After anchoring, canoes with men and boys kept crossing from the mainland, and all daySunday it was the same. They halted at the islands, and with the nexttide went on to Toulon. Landing on the Saturday evening to shootpigeons, we met several natives, and learned that their plantations wereon the mainland, and that they crossed to plant and fight, taking theirboys with them. Afterwards at Aroma, they told me they left their wivesand daughters at home in charge of a few men, whilst the majority crossedto the main, and stayed away for some time, returning with food, to spenda few days at home on the island. During their absence, the women sailabout and trade, going as far as Dedele in Cloudy Bay, being one and thesame people. Canoes from the westward might have called at Toulon whenthe men were on the mainland fighting and planting, and seeing onlywomen, would soon report a woman's land. Many years ago an Elema canoewas carried away there. They were kindly treated by the Amazons, but atDedele on returning, were attacked and several killed; they naturallyreported a woman's land too. 

The following week we visited Dedele in Cloudy Bay, which had beenvisited two years previously by Messrs. Lawes and McFarlane. The villagewas barricaded with high and thick mangrove sticks, with a narrow openingto the sea. They objected to my landing, and formed a crescent in frontof the boat. I sprung ashore and asked for the chief. I held out apiece of hoop-iron, and a rather short, well-built man, dressed withboar's tusks and other ornaments, stepped forward and took my present. Hetook me by the hand, and led me to the village, just allowing me to peepin at the opening. I could see the women rushing out by an opening atthe other side; pigs, dogs, nets, and other valuables were being carriedoff; they were rushing off wildly away into the bush. I was very anxiousto get right in, and meant to before I went to the boat. My beads wereall done up in small parcels, so I could throw them about easily. A poorold woman was sitting under the nearest house, bewailing her sad lot, with an infant, the mother of which had very likely gone off to the bushto hide the valuables and to return for the child, or perhaps she wasupstairs packing up. I threw the poor old dame a packet of beads forherself and another for the child. Spying another old lady close by onthe opposite side, I threw her one. It had the desired effect; myfriend, the chief, who stood guard at the opening, now conceived the"happy thought" that something could be made out of me. 

"Would you like to walk round and look at the village?"

"Yes, I should. "

"Come, then;" and, giving me his hand, he led me, attended by an armedcrowd, to every house, on the verandahs of which I deposited a packet ofbeads. He was the chief, and was named Gidage. When going round hesaid--

"You are no longer Tamate, you are Gidage. "

"Right, my friend; you are no longer Gidage, you are Tamate. "

I gave him an extra present, and he gave me a return one, saying, "Gidage, we are friends; stay, and I, Tamate, will kill you a pig. "

"No, Tamate. Gidage must go; but hopes to re-return, and will then eatTamate's pig. "

"No, stay now; we are friends, and you must be fed!"

"No, I cannot stay; but when I return, then pig-eating"--not a verypleasant employment when, other things can be had. 

Pigs are very valuable animals here, and much thought of, and only truefriends can be regaled with them. The women nurse the pig. I have seena woman suckling a child at one breast and a small pig at the other; thatwas at South Cape. I have seen it also at Hula and Aroma. Proceeding tothe beach, we parted, old and well-known friends. 

"Gidage, must you go?"

"Yes; I cannot now stay, Tamate. "

"Go, Gidage; how many moons until you return?"

"Tamate, I cannot say; but hope to return. "

"_Kaione_ (good-bye), Tamate. "

"_Kaione_, Gidage;" and away he started, leaving Tamate on the beach, surrounded by an interesting crowd of natives. 

It was near here, a few years after, that a _beche-de-mer_ party of sevenwere murdered; and on the opposite side of the bay two cedar-seekers werewaylaid, and lost their lives. We went into Sandbank Bay, and I landedat the village of Domara. What a scene it was! The women rushed intothe long grass, and I was led, after a good deal of talk, up to thevillage--only to see, at the other end, grass petticoats disappearing, the wearers hidden by the quantity of stuff they were carrying. One poorwoman, heavily laden with treasures, had perched above all her child, andaway she, too, was flying. Never had white man landed there before, andwho knows what he may be up to?

The following incident illustrates the shocks a traveller must put upwith in New Guinea. 

It was resting-day at a village, far away from the coast, and, spreadingmy chart out on the middle of the floor in the small native house inwhich we were camping, several sitting round, I was tracing our journeydone, and the probable one to do, when strange drops were falling around, a few on the chart. They came from a bulky parcel overhead. Jumping upquickly, I discovered that they were grandmother's remains being dried. Our chart was placed on the fire, and the owner was called lustily, whohurriedly entered and walked away with the parcel. It was altogether ahurried time, and spoiled our dinner. Feeling convinced that a suitablelocality for the settlement of teachers might be found in theneighbourhood of Orangerie Bay, I resolved on returning thither, and weanchored at Kuragori, on the east side of Dufaure Island, on April 25th, 1879. I went ashore, and found the people delighted to meet me. Thechief, Tutuaunei, seems a fine young fellow. The people aregood-looking, clear-skinned, and very few suffering from skin disease. They were quite at home with us, and a number accompanied me inland. Instrong trade winds, the vessel could lie under the lee of the mainlandopposite. We got on board, and steamed round to the north side, anchoring off Bonabona. 

I went ashore, and was met on the beach by Meaudi, the chief. He is thechief of four villages, some distance from one another, and all a goodsize. I visited all four. They have good houses, and all looks clean. Isaw no mangroves whatever, and no appearance of swamp. The villages areon the beach, and I believe in good healthy positions. We walked fromBonabona to Sigokoiro, followed by a large number of men, women, andchildren, who were much interested in my boots, clothes, and hat. Thechief lives in Gokora, and when on the platform in front of his finelarge house I gave the present, and we exchanged names. By adopting hisname, it meant I was to visit all his very special friends, and give themalso presents. I called an old woman sitting by to come to me. Veryhesitatingly she came, and stretched forth her arm to receive a present. I asked her to come nearer, which she did, when assured by the chief itwas all right, and I put her present of beads round her neck. Then allthe people shouted, clapped their hands, and danced with delight. Afterthat, all the old women were produced. We were well known by report tothem, and so Tamate passed as a great _taubada_ (chief). 

Dufaure is a fine island, quite equal to any I have seen in the SouthPacific--plantations on all sides, right up to the mountain tops. Theyknow nothing of firearms, for, on inquiring if there were birds on theisland, they asked if I had a sling. The people are a much finer race, and freer than any I have seen further east. The two races seem to meethere--that from the Kerepunu side, and that from the east. We areanchored some distance from the shore in three fathoms, and further outit is shallower. The opposite shore on mainland looks low and unhealthy. 

There are ten villages on the island, five of which we have visited. 

After visiting the Keakaro and Aroma districts, our journeyings werenearly brought to a sudden termination. When we got halfway between thepoint next to McFarlane Harbour, and Mailu, where there is a boatentrance, we saw the boat, and waved to them to approach. They came nearto the surf, but not near enough for us to get on board. The native ofHula, from Maopa, got on board. The Hula boy got on board early in theday, leaving us to go on alone. I called out to them to proceed to theboat entrance at Mailu. Great numbers of natives were with us; we saw, in the distance, numbers more sitting on the beach, and armed. Some ofthose following us were armed. When within two miles of where the boatwas to await us, we came upon a crowd of men and women; the formercarried spears, clubs, or pieces of hard wood, used in opening cocoanuts; the women had clubs. Some time before this, I said to the teacherand Loyalty islander, "Keep a good look-out; I fear there is mischiefhere. " When we came upon the last group, I asked for a cocoanut inexchange for beads; the man was giving it to me, when a young man steppedforward and sent him back. We hastened our steps, so as to get to thevillage, where the strangers from Mailukolo and Kapumari might help us. The teacher heard them discussing as to the best place for the attack;and, not knowing that he knew what they said, he heard much that left nodoubt in our minds that murder was meant. I carried a satchel, which hadbeads and hoop-iron in it; they tried to get it. I gave presents ofbeads; some were indignantly returned. I was in front, between two menwith clubs, who kept telling me I was a bad man. I held their hands, andkept them so that they could not use their clubs. The Loyalty islanderhad a fowling-piece--thinking we might be away some days, and we mighthave to shoot our dinners. They tried hard to get him to fire it off, and twice tried to wrest it from him. They know what guns are, and withreason. They tried to trip us; they jostled us. On we went. 

Two men, when near the village, came close up behind me with large woodenclubs, which were taken from them by two women, who ran off to thevillage. Things looked black, and each of us prayed in silence to Himwho rules over the heathen. Soon a man came rushing along, seized theclub, and took it from the man on my left, and threw it in the sea. Hetried to do the same with the one on my right; but he was too light aman, and did not succeed. An old woman, when at the point, came out andasked them what they meant, and followed us, talking to them all the way, so dividing their thoughts. An old chief, whom we saw on our way up, came hurriedly along to meet us, calling out, "Mine is the peace! Whathave these foreigners done that you want to kill them?" He closed up tothe teacher, and took him by the hand. Another chief walked close behindme. They began to talk loudly amongst themselves. Some were findingfault that we should have been allowed to get near the village, andothers that there was yet time. The boat was anchored some distance off:we got her nearer; and, when ready to move off to the boat, I opened mysatchel, gave hoop-iron to our friends the chiefs, and threw beadsamongst the crowd. I shouted for Kapumari, and a sturdy young fellowfought his way through the crowd. I gave him a piece of hoop-iron, and, with our friendly chiefs, he forced the crowd back, calling on us to bequick, and follow. So into the water we got, the chiefs calling, "Goquick; go quick!" We got on board; our Chinamen got flustered, and verynearly let the boat drift broadside on the beach; we, with poles andoars, got her round and off, sails set, and away for Kerepunu. Beforechanging clothes, we thanked God our Father for His protection and careover us. We felt He alone did all; unsettled their thoughts as to whofirst, where, and when; and it was He who gave us friends. 

Why should they want to kill us? It was surely never for the smallsatchel I carried. I believe it was revenge. Some years ago, a vesselcalled off Aroma; trading for food was done on board; thieving went on;food was sold twice; revolvers and rifles were brought out; the nativeswere fired on, several were wounded, and very likely some were killed. Natives on the beach were fired upon, and some were wounded who werehiding in the bush close by. We land--the first foreigners to visitthem--and on us they will be revenged. What a pity that the sameforeigners who fire on the natives do not return the following week, andso receive their deserts! The wretches steer clear of such parts. Ihave asked the teacher to find out, if possible, why Aroma wished to killTamate and Taria. 

When in the boat, we asked the Hula boy why he left us and took to theboat. He said he had heard some say we should be killed, and that wewould make a fine feast. He did not tell us, because he had not anopportunity, and was afraid the people might hear him if he told, and sohe would be killed. 

A week later a chief from Maopa came with a Kerepunu chief to see me. Irecognised him as the one who kept back the crowd the other day at Aroma, and opened the way for me to get into the water, and so into the boat. Hesays, from our landing in the morning they had determined to kill us, butthe suitable time did not arrive. When we arrived at the place where thelarge canoes from Toulon and Daunai were lying, it was there arranged bythe Aroma people and those from the canoes that Aroma should kill us andhave all they could get, and those from the canoes should have the bodiesto eat. He says they kept putting it off, until, finally, it was to bedone when we were at the boat, then they would have boat and all; but heand two other chiefs arrived just in time. He says it was not revenge, and, turning to the Kerepunu chief, he said, "You know Aroma from of old, and how all strangers are killed. " I gave him a present, and told himthat I hoped to see him soon. 

The inhabitants of the inland villages are probably the aborigines, whohave been driven back to the hills by the robuster race now occupyingtheir plantations on the coast. Their habits and customs are curious andinteresting. They cook the heads of their slain enemies, to secure cleanskulls to put on sacred places. 

They have one great spirit--Palaku Bara, who dwells in the mountains. They worship him unitedly in one place. Each family has a sacred place, where they carry offerings to the spirits of deceased ancestors, whomthey terribly fear. Sickness in the family, death, famine, scarcity offish, etc. --these terrible spirits are at work and must be propitiated. 

Pigs are never killed but in the one place, and then they are offered tothe spirit. The blood is poured out there, and the carcase is thencarried back to the village, to be divided, cooked, and eaten. 

Pigs' skulls are kept and hung up in the house. Food for a feast, suchas at house-building, is placed near the post where the skulls hang, anda prayer is said. When the centre-post is put up, the spirits havewallaby, fish, and bananas presented to them, and they are besought tokeep that house always full of food, and that it may not fall when thewind is strong. The great spirit causes food to grow, and to himpresentations of food are made. 

Spirits, when they leave the body, take a canoe, cross the lagoon, anddepart to the mountains, where they remain in perfect bliss; no work, andnothing to trouble them, with plenty of betel-nuts. They dance all nightlong, and rest all day. When the natives begin planting, they first takea bunch of bananas and sugar-cane, and go to the centre of theplantation, and call over the names of the dead belonging to theirfamily, adding, "There is your food, your bananas and sugar-cane; let ourfood grow well, and let it be plentiful. If it does not grow well andplentiful, you all will be full of shame, and so shall we. "

When they go on trading expeditions, they present their food to thespirits at the centre post of the house, and ask the spirits to go beforethem and prepare the people, so that the trading may be prosperous. 

No great work and no expedition is undertaken without offerings andprayer. 

When sickness is in the family, a pig is brought to the sacred place ofthe great spirit, and killed. The carcase is then taken to the sacredplace of the family, and the spirits are asked to accept it. Sins areconfessed, such as bananas that are taken, or cocoanuts, and none havebeen presented, and leave not given to eat them. "There is a pig;accept, and remove the sickness. " Death follows, and the day of burialarrives. The friends all stand round the open grave, and the chief'ssister or cousin calls out in a loud voice, "You have been angry with usfor the bananas we have taken (or cocoanuts, as the case may be), and youhave, in your anger, taken this child. Now let it suffice, and bury youranger. " The body is then placed in the grave, and covered over withearth. 

CHAPTER III. SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 

Journey inland from Port Moresby--Evening with a chief--Savage life--Treehouses--Uakinumu--Inland natives--Native habits of eating--Mountainscenery--Upland natives--Return to Uakinumu--Drinking out of abamboo--Native conversation--Keninumu--Munikahila--Nativespiritists--Habits and influence of thesemen--Meroka--Kerianumu--Makapili--The Laroki Falls--Epakari--Return toPort Moresby. 

In 1879, I made a long journey inland, in a north-easterly direction fromPort Moresby. I visited many native villages, and explored themountainous country along the course of and between the Goldie and Larokirivers. 

The reader will get some notion of the country, the natives, and theircustoms, from the following extracts taken from a journal kept at thattime. 

_July_ 15_th_, 1879. --We left Port Moresby at half-past seven, reachingthe Laroki at half-past eleven. We crossed in shallow water near towhere the Goldie joins the Laroki. We had eighteen carriers, four ofthem women, who carried more than the men. After resting awhile at theLaroki we went on about three miles farther to Moumiri, the first villageof the Koiari tribe of Port Moresby. On entering the village we tookthem by surprise; the women shouted and the men rushed to their spears. We called out, _Mai_, _mai_, _mai_ (Peace, peace, peace), and, onrecognizing who we were, they came running towards us with both handsoutspread. We met the chief's wife, and she led us up the hill, wherethere are a number of good native houses. It was shouted on before usthat foreigners and Ruatoka had arrived, and down the hill the youthscame rushing, shaking hands, shouting, and slapping themselves. We werereceived by the chief under the house, and there we had to sit for a verylong time until his wife returned from the plantation with sugar-cane. Our carriers chewed large quantities of sugar-cane, got a few betel-nuts, and then set off on the return journey. We are now thirteen miles north-east from Port Moresby, 360 feet above sea-level, the thermometer 84degrees in shade. The people are small, women not good-looking, andchildren ill-shaped. The Goldie runs at the base of the hill; thenatives get water from it. The houses are very similar to those inlandfrom Kerepunu. On the door hangs a bunch of nutshells, so that when thedoor is shut or opened they make a noise. Should the occupants of thehouse be asleep, and their foes come, they would, on the door beingopened, be woke up. Spears and clubs are all handy. 

16_th_. --Ruatoka, Joe (an African), and I started at half-past ten forMunikahila, where we hope to get carriers, our Moumiri friends objectingto go. The first village we came to we found deserted, and in one oldhouse the skeleton of a child. We crossed to another village, and comingsuddenly upon the few who were at home, they were terribly frightened;one woman danced up and down the village, and shouted to the people inthe neighbouring villages to come at once. We are 1170 feet above sea-level, at a village called Keninuma. The people soon gathered round, some with spears, clubs, and shields, others unarmed. Feeling cold afterthe climb, I signed to be allowed to go into a house to change clothing, and was given to understand that a very good place to do it was on theverandah in front of the house, and before the assembly. When the chief, Poroko Butoa, arrived, we were assigned a small house; a man during theevening came rushing along with one piece of sugar-cane and calling outfor a tomahawk. A tomahawk for a piece of sugar-cane would be throwingmoney to the winds. We are E. N. E. From Moumiri. 

17_th_. --Rather cold during the night. Five natives who slept in thehouse with us kept a fire burning all night. A child sitting in front ofthe house has a taro in one hand, a bamboo pipe in the other; takes abite of the taro, then a draw from the charged pipe, and the mixtureseems to be thoroughly relished. Feeling sure we should get carriershere, we took no supplies with us, so are now eating the best we can get, doing Banting to perfection. A number of men have been sitting all dayabout the house making spears, the jawbone and tusks of the wild boarbeing the only implements. 

18_th_. --Thermometer at sunrise 70 degrees. A number of ugly painted andfeathered fellows came in this morning on their way to the village in thevalley. The people here are much darker than the coast tribes, and theirhair is woolly. Joe said on arriving here, "Hallo, these people same asmine, hair just the same. " They are scarcely so dark. A few are bright-coloured, but all have the woolly hair. A goodly number suffer fromsores on feet and other parts of body. Their one want is a tomahawk. Thepeople seem to live in families. We had a good supper of taro andcockatoo, the latter rather tough. 

19_th_. --The carriers have not yet arrived. In the evening a womanshouted and yelled; all rushed to their spears, and there was greatrunning, snorting, and blowing at some imaginary enemy. After the chiefcame in, we lay about the fire for some time; then to our blankets. Iwas beginning to nod, when some women in a neighbouring house begangiggling and laughing. Our friend wakened up and began talking. I toldhim to sleep; he answered, _Kuku mahuta_, (Smoke, then sleep). He hadhis smoke, and then began reciting. I remember, as a youth, being told, when I could not sleep, to repeat a psalm or paraphrase, or count onehundred to myself, and I should soon drop off. This fellow repeatedaloud and he must have been going over the mythologic lore of his familyfor very many generations, and yet he did not sleep. At last, a smoke, beginning with a scream of _kuku_. Now, surely sleep; but no, he changedto a low monotonous chant, so grating on the sleepy man's nervous systemthat it would have driven many desperate. At last, in the morning hours, the notes became indistinct, long pauses were observed, and, finally, Ifell asleep. 

The women carry exceedingly heavy loads up these steep hills. Yesterdayone woman had two large kits of taro, and a child of about two years onthe top of all. Ruatoka shot eight blue pigeons and one bird of paradiseto-day: the latter must be eaten with the best of all sauces--hunger. Thenatives pick up heads, legs, and entrails, turn them on the fire and eatthem. 

20_th_. --Yesterday evening, about six, the carriers came in with greatshouting, and glad was I to see my lad and companion Maka then. Greatwas the joy at the division of salt and tobacco. Before we came here thewomen and children slept in the bush at night, the men in the village. They are at enmity with the natives on the flat across the ravine, and itseems that sometimes they get a night visit, and may lose a man. For thelast two nights the women have been in the village, but every sound heardcauses a shout. Last night, when just getting off, they came rushing upto our house, and calling on us to get up with our guns, as their enemieswere coming. "Only fire off one, and it will frighten them away. " Wetold them to go and sleep, and not be afraid. 

The state of fear of one another in which the savage lives is trulypitiful; to him every stranger seeks his life, and so does every othersavage. The falling of a dry leaf at night, the tread of a pig, or thepassage of a bird all rouse him, and he trembles with fear. 

How they relish salt! The smallest grain is picked carefully up. Fortunately we have a good deal of that commodity. Never have I seensalt-eating like this; only children eating sugar corresponds to it. 

Here as in all other parts of New Guinea--it is not the most powerful manwho fights and kills most, but little abominable sneaks, treacherous inthe extreme. Since our arrival here we find the thermometer from 82 to84 degrees during the day, and as low as 68 degrees, more frequently 70degrees, during the night. By bearings we are only about twenty miles instraight course from Port Moresby. 

[Tree houses: 101. Jpg]

21_st_. --The village is built on the ridge, the chief's house right onthe high end and looking east, our small house close by on the side ofthe others, on each side, leaving a pathway in the centre. At the veryend of the ridge is a house on a very high tree, used as a look-out houseand a refuge for women and children in case of attack. There are quite anumber of tree houses in the various villages on the ridges seen fromhere. The people are anxious to get Maka, a light-coloured and very fine-looking native lad, married to one of their girls and settled downamongst them. I said to our African, "They want Maka to marry one oftheir girls. " Joe, I suppose, felt slighted that he too had not anoffer, and he replied, "Well, sir, in Madagascar, a very big chief wasreal anxious I marry his daughter; fine-looking girl; he make me chief, and give me plenty land; far cleaner people than them be. "

I find the people have the same sign of friendship as in the east end ofNew Guinea--nose and stomach pointed to. They speak of a land, Daui, with which they are friendly, a very long way off. Daunai, of OrangerieBay, is called Daui in some places. To their tree houses they haveladders with long vines on each side to assist ascent. Our delay herewill help us to know the people. I have just been showing them thelikenesses of two young friends, and the excitement has been great, men, women, and children crowding round, thumb in mouth, scratching andshaking heads, and leaping and screaming, coming again and again to havea look. 

22_nd_. --A number of strangers slept, or rather made a noise all night inhouses close by, and amongst them a spiritist, whose hideous singing andchanting of revelations was enough to drive one frantic. We tried toquiet him, but it was of no use--silenced he would not be. A man sittingby us when having morning tea asked for some of the salt we were using. We told him it was not salt, but sugar. He insisted it was salt, and wegave him some on his taro. He began eating, and the look of disgust onhis face was worth seeing; he rose up, went out, spat out what he had inhis mouth, and threw the remainder away. 

23_rd_. --Cannot get the natives to move; they say they are tired, andwill have to rest until to-morrow morning, and they are also afraid oftheir enemies. The excitement is great, but what it all means isdifficult for us to say. Noon: all have cleared out with spears, clubs, and shields, two men having been killed in a village near, and they havegone to get hold of the murderers if they can. Dressed in their feathersand fighting gear, with faces streaked, they do certainly look ugly. After being some time gone, they returned, saying the enemy, who werefrom Eikiri, had gone off to the back mountains. 

28_th_. --Left this morning, and had to carry our things, no nativesaccompanying us. When about four miles on, we met natives who willinglytook our bags and accompanied us to Uakinumu. The travelling was not sobad--a good deal of descending and ascending. Oriope, the old chief, wasdelighted to see us. His wives and children have gone with great burdensof betel-nuts and taro to trade at the seaside. The old fellow goes withus. We are now 1530 feet above sea-level, east-by-south from lastcamp--Mount Owen Stanley due north. Oriope is Mr. Lawes's great friend. He used to live in Munikahila, but trouble through marrying a wife hassent him in here. He seems greatly attached to Ruatoka. He is aterrible talker, long-winded and deafening. 

29_th_. --We had a strange sort of a hut for sleeping-quarters on the topof a rock. The house, being open all round, felt exceedingly cold whenthe fire went down. The people here seem much lighter than at the otherplace, and the children have a more pleasant expression. Basaltic rockslie scattered about in every direction. We had our flag flying, and theadmiration was great, the natives viewing it from underneath then from adistance, and in each position noticing something new. About half-pasteleven we left. The old chief and four carriers went with us. Aftercrossing the head of the Munikahila Creek we passed through fine thickly-wooded country, that may yet become a very extensive coffee country. After travelling for some hours, we camped 1800 feet above sea-level. Onthe way the carriers struck and were for going back, but we insisted ontheir going on a little further. Strange formation of country all aroundhere. This ridge seems alone in a large basin, one side of which is bareperpendicular rock. There is a good quantity of cedar, but so difficultto get away that it would never pay to work. We are north-east fromUakinumu. 

30_th_. --We started late, continued our journey along the ridge, risinggradually to 2250 feet, and then along a fine level country for somemiles, when we began to descend. Soon our old friend began shouting, andreceived an answer from a village a long way off. Close by us was a verysteep descent, down which we went till we came under the shadow of agreat rock, where we rested, and in about an hour up came ten nativesunarmed, touched our chins, and we theirs, then all squatted to smoke. One of them, some time ago, had been to the coast, and knew Rua; his joyat now seeing him in here was great. A shot had been fired at a cockatoobefore they heard the shouting, and they were much afraid. When allseemed satisfied, and the crust of the news broken, I proposed a start, so up bundles, and away we went. When having gone about two miles, therewas a halt in an open space, and we were given to understand we must campthere. I could not agree to it, "We must go on to the village. " "No, you must stay here. "

"We cannot; we must go on. "

"If you go on you will be devoured by the _boroma badababa_ (great pig). "

I insisted upon going on; they called to those in the village, and onbeing answered we again went on for about half a mile, when every bundlewas put down and a halt called, and again we had to listen to theunintelligible story of the wild animal or animals that would destroy us. We sat down and tried to get them to see as we did, that a house wasnecessary for our comfort. A thunderstorm was working up, and soon therain would be down on us--let us be off for the village. They had a longconfab with those in the village on the ridge, which, when ended, seemedfavourable; and so up the steep side of the ridge we went. When halfwayup they halted, and wanted us to camp under the shelter of a great rock. Seeing some young men with bundles rounding the rock, I joined myself tothem, and away we went, followed by the others to the village. Under thefirst house in the village sat a man, with a large pig standing by him, which he was clapping and scratching, as if to keep it quiet; and as wewent along we saw great pigs under the houses. Certainly they weresavage-looking pigs. We were given an open house, and the rain wascoming on. I was ascending, when it became necessary to spring from apig that was after me. Is this Goldie's big beast the natives told himof? This is a fine country. We passed through large plantations ofyams, taro, sugar-cane, and bananas. During the evening we had crowds ofmen and lads--no women or children--to see us. Some are quite lightcopper-coloured, others are very dark; nearly all are dressed withcassowary feathers; many with ruffs round their necks made from thesefeathers. There were none very tall, but all seem well-built men, withgood muscle. They have the same calabashes and chunam sticks for betel-chewing as at Kerepunu. Some chunam sticks made from cassowary bones arewell carved. They are a very noisy lot; one would think they were tryingto see who could speak the loudest. They tell us it is impossible tocross to the other side, as further inland the ridge ends--and there isnothing but bare broken rook--inaccessible all round. The majority ofthe men are bearded and moustached, and have cassowary feathers like apad behind, on which they sit. They dress with a string. The demand forsalt is very great; grains are picked up, and friends are supplied with afew grains from what they have got for taro. The name of the place isKenagagara, 1810 feet above the sea-level, E. N. E. From Uakinumu. 

31_st_. --Great crowds of people keep going and coming. We spent amiserable night. Our old chief, Oriope, had a conclave round the fire, and it took him all night to recount the doings of the _Naos_(foreigners), not forgetting the toilet. At times he waxed eloquent, andthe whole gully rung again. It was useless telling him to be quiet. Allmen and lads have the nose and ears pierced. A number of women andchildren are about. Some of the women are fine, tall, muscular, andclear-skinned, as light-coloured as Eastern Polynesians. The childrenare lithe, blithe, and hearty--some very dark and some very light. Thewomen have brought large quantities of taro for salt. Oriope is verysleepy, and I have every now and again to wake him up, so that to-nighthe may sleep soundly, and not prevent our sleeping. 

My name here is Oieva--that of the fine-looking old father of thevillage. At present I am all alone the others being out after birds. Thenatives are very friendly. They relish salt and ginger, which I havetried with them, and which they pronounce good. Ruatoka and Maka havereturned; they shot a pig, which the natives who accompanied them cookedand divided, to be carried in. The excitement is great over thedivision, and the whole assembly are shouting; those from the huntrecounting the day's proceedings, acting the shooting of the pig, to theintense delight and amazement of the others. They eat flesh nearly raw. A pig is put on the fire until the hair is well singed off; then divisionis made, then re-divided, and eaten. They take a piece between theteeth, hold with one hand, and with a bamboo knife cut close to themouth. A bird is turned on the fire a few times, then cut up and eaten. 

_August_ 1_st_. --Left this morning to look for a track. We passedthrough a fine large village about one mile from here, and were joined bysixty men, all armed with spears and clubs, and faces painted. Theyaccompanied us for about four miles, and then turned away to the south. We continued on the ridge for some miles further, until we could see thatall round were great inaccessible mountains with bare faces. It beginswith the Astrolabe, extending west until Vetura is reached, and then awayeast by south until the centre of the range is reached. In some placesit has a perpendicular rock face of many hundred feet; in other places itis broken rock with bush growth, and only at very long distances cantracks be found, and even then it is difficult to get up. We descendedto the river, a large one, flowing west, through great rocks, often lost, sometimes only pools appearing here and there until, some distance down, and when eight hundred feet above sea-level, it comes out a fine andflowing river. We had a good bath, and, of course, the inevitable_kuku_, and then skirted the side of the ridge, passing close by andunder great rocks and overhanging cliffs, and up a most extraordinarysteep path into splendid sugar-cane and taro plantations. Weary, we satdown and ate sugar-cane under the shade of a great rock. This WestIndian "long breakfast" goes well when thirsty and hungry. The nativeswho accompanied us, having caught a large rat and frog, turned them onthe fire and ate them. 

A truly wonderful country! What terrible convulsions of nature theremust have been here ere these great boulders were displaced and rolledabout like mere pebbles! The villages are so built that they areaccessible only on two sides by very narrow tracks. We saw no game ofany kind, yet the cassowary must abound somewhere near, as every one ofthe natives wears great head-dresses and neck-ruffs made from thefeathers. Our highest ascent to-day was to 2360 feet above thesea-level; we call it Mount Bellamy; it stands out alone, and from it wesaw the Astrolabe, Vetura, and Munikahila. 

2_nd_. --We left this morning for a pig and cassowary hunt, but wereunsuccessful. We bagged four cockatoos, one green parrot, one brueros, and three pigeons. Of my travelling in this land, to-day beats all; itwas along mere goat tracks, on the edge of frightful precipices, downprecipitous mountain-sides and up steep ridges, on hands and knees attimes, hanging on to roots and vines, and glad when a tree offered alittle rest and support. I gave it up at last, hungry and weary, and letthe others proceed. I stayed with a party of natives who were getting akind of large almond with a very thick fleshy rind, the nut inside veryhard, which they broke open with stones, filling their kits with thekernels. They call the nut _okari_. They fed me with sugar-cane, taro, and _okari_, and then got leaves for me to rest on. They had all theirarms handy; I was, as I am always, unarmed, and felt thoroughlycomfortable with them. Only once in New Guinea have I carried a weapon, and then we had spears thrown at us. I consider a man safer without thanwith arms. The return "home" was frightfully steep and trying to weariedand hungry folks. 

3_rd_. --Youths busy with feathers of cockatoos got yesterday, making head-dresses. They take the feather, strip it down, throw the quill away, fasten all the stripped feathers neatly together, dry in sun, then bindround their combs. One youth is preparing a head-covering from the barkof the mulberry: he is making native cloth by chewing the bark, and nowonder he complains of his jaws being sore, for it is a long job. I gavethe children presents of beads this morning, and some of the oldgentlemen objected, saying they ought to have had them; but I did notunderstand them. It is very convenient at times not to understand whatis said--it is thoroughly native. We have been asking them if they willreceive teachers, and they all say yes, and at once, for it meanstomahawks, knives, and salt. They say, "To-morrow we'll all go and getthe two teachers at Munikahila and bring them here now. " We here are inexcellent health and spirits; a little disappointed at not being able tocross. Certainly we have not lived on the best, and we have campedanywhere. I like these mountaineers--free, independent, and kind. Whenthey cook taro, if near, we get a hot taro to eat, and often they bringhot taro to the house. They bring their presents of taro and sugar-caneand at once walk away. They have very good houses, thatched with grass, some with a verandah on two sides, and all built six feet and more fromthe ground. When we were away yesterday, a wild boar from the bush tookpossession of the village. Often when the natives are in the bush theyhave to seek refuge in climbing trees from the savage tuskers, especiallyif they have been speared, and are determined to fight. Our flag isflying, to signify that it is "resting day. "

The natives very seldom bury their dead, leaving the body in a house setapart for it, which they often visit. When a number of deaths takeplace, they leave the village and settle somewhere else not far off. There is one grave here, near to our house, on which a tobacco plant isgrowing, a bamboo pipe, the property of the deceased, alongside, and afew sticks on end with yams on top. When they do bury, the body isplaced standing in the grave. 

4_th_. --We left Kenakagara this morning, accompanied by natives. Ourfriends soon left us, and we lost our way, and after some hours'travelling found ourselves in a thick bush and surrounded by precipices. It has been up hill and down dale with a vengeance, trying hard to get tothe south-west. At last, wet through and thoroughly tired, we camped tohave breakfast, dinner, and supper in one. We were ten hours on thetramp, and carrying our bags, so feel ready for a night's rest. 

5_th_. --We see where we are; but how to get out is the problem to besolved. Ruatoka has gone to look for a track. We had a fine night, aroaring fire at our feet, and so enjoyed sleep. Camping this way ispreferable to living in native huts, far more comfortable and enjoyable;but for our work it is better for us to be with the natives. Uakinumubears south-west-by-west from us now, and could be reached in a fewhours, if only we could get down the precipice. Rua has returned. Whensome distance off, he heard cooeying, and responded, when our old friend, who had been looking for us in a great state of fear, shouted his name. Rua told him to follow, and he did so, arriving at the camp soon after. He was so excited he could not speak, but embraced us all round, and thensat down. 

After breakfast, we set off, each carrying a bundle. The travelling wasdifficult, until we arrived on the path leading to the creek and up toUakinumu. When on the spur, the old man shouted for the youths to comeand help us; they cooeyed back, and we hoped to see them in about anhour, or at the most two hours; after waiting and no one coming, wedescended, and when at the creek met a youth coming slowly along andsaying others were following. I felt sure they delayed their coming tomeet us until we should be near the village, where they would take thebags and receive tobacco and salt; but they were sold; we trudged on, andwould not let them have a bag. We took no notice of those we met, and totheir solicitations asking to carry bags we turned a deaf ear. Thechief's eldest son came along and begged to have my bag. No, on nocondition. The poor old chief was in a sad state; but as we are likelyto require their services some future day, it is necessary to teach themthat for work or service they will be paid, but for skulking, and hopingto get tobacco and salt, their hopes are futile. We reached the village, and Oriope did all he possibly could to keep us. No, on we will go; hissleepy boys may sleep on. We gave him and his little grandchild whoaccompanied him presents, bade him good-bye, and away. 

6_th_. --Here, and in all the villages we have been, we have seen very fewwomen and girls, and very few of the young men seem to be married. Dothey kill the girls when born?

7_th_. --Left this morning for a mountain close by, hoping to see thewindings of the Laroki from it. We had to descend 1000 feet, and thenascend 1800. From the droppings about, I should say the cassowary andpig abound in the gullies about this mountain. We found on the top adeserted village and five cocoanut-trees. We could make nothing of theLaroki, because of thick bush on top. We saw that the Munikahila creekflows west and south, until, due north of this, it turns sharp and flowsnorth-by-east and falls into the Goldie. We reached camp with thoroughlywhetted appetites, and enjoyed breakfast and dinner of pigeons and taro. We call the mountain Mount Elsie. It is north of Vetura, and west andsouth of Keninumu. We have seen four new villages close to one anotherwhere a teacher could work well. We have now five positions forteachers, and I hope before we have finished with this inland trip tohave thirty, giving four and five villages to each teacher. In crossingone of the spurs, a native and his son brought us bananas, and water in abamboo. It is difficult to drink out of a bamboo. Place the open end tothe mouth, raise gradually, look out, here it comes--steady. Ah, toomuch raised; it is a deluge streaming over you and nearly choking you. Try again--well, a little better, yet far from perfect. Choking, areyou? Never mind, practise, and you will soon be an expert--a native indrinking, truly. The natives have been having a feast. They began withboiled bananas and finished with a large snake cooked in pots. It wascut up and divided out amongst all--sixteen eggs were found in her, alittle larger than a good-sized fowl's egg. They seemed to relish itmuch, and the gravy was much thought of. They say pig is nothingcompared to snake. Ah, well, tastes differ. 

9_th_. --We had a few noisy strangers in the village, and they seemed tobe anxious that all they had to say should be heard in every house. Theconversation is kept up by the inmates of the various houses, and attimes all are speaking and trying to drown one another. A lull comes, and you fancy the turmoil is ended, and so roll on your side for a sleep;but, alas, it was only drawing breath, the noise being perhaps worse thanbefore. Our chief and his wife had a quarrel over something or otherlast evening. Of course the woman had the best of it. Strange, she saidvery little, but that little seemed to be to the point. Every now andagain he would shout, _Pirikava_! _pirikava_! _pirikava_! (Dear me! dearme! dear me!), and then scream and rage. The wife would then laugh athim, which made him worse, screaming and dancing more than ever. Shewould then say something, which he would answer, and so quieted him downa little. All have gone hunting to-day--men, women, and children, pigsand dogs. Before leaving, they told us if we saw any one sneaking about, we were to be sure to shoot them; but if they came up openly to us, andpointed to the nose and stomach, they were friends, and had come for saltand tobacco. We get our water in canvas bags, and teachers ormissionaries coming inland will require a set of water-bags made from thevery best canvas. 

11_th_. --A number of natives have gone to Port Moresby, to help Rua andMaka with tomahawks, salt, &c. After they left, we went to the bush, andcut down a number of trees for posts for a house. The chief, Poroko, hasgiven us land, at an elevation of 1260 feet; splendid view all round; andif not healthy, I know not where to go, unless it be to the top of MountOwen Stanley. There will be plenty of room for taro, sugar-cane, andcoffee plantations. A woman often passes us with a frightful load oftaro and sugar-cane on her back, and on the top of all an infant in a netbasket. She goes to the next house, swings the infant kit off first, placing it on the ground, where the infant in it kicks and rolls, butcannot get out until the kits of taro and sugar-cane are safely housed. 

14_th_. --This morning, after an early breakfast, we started with the PortMoresby natives for Munikahila, they being anxious to secure a supply ofbetel-nuts to return with. Have promised our old friend Oriope ofUakinumu, before we started on the Eikiri trip, that if he led us acrossand gave us bearers, all should have tomahawks, knives, etc. He did notcarry out his part, and the bearers from him returned, leaving us inland. I was anxious to pay them for what they did, so we went on there withtomahawks, tobacco, and salt. We were about two miles from the village, when we shouted, and were replied to, and soon four young fellows camerushing along, in a great state of perspiration and very excited, rubbingour chins and throwing their arms around us, highly delighted that we hadreturned. They were not going to serve us as they did the last time. Wereached the village, and were seated with strangers and surrounded by oldfriends, when Oriope, who had been on his plantation, came along to wherewe were, nearly breathless, and streaming with perspiration; he threw hisarms around me, embraced me, rubbing his dirty moist cheeks on mine, sitting down and not speaking for some time. When he began, he said hewas afraid we were terribly offended, and would not return; but, havingreturned to him, we must stay. No, we cannot; we must return to Keninumuthat night. Ah, he could manage it; he would have us tied, and so detainus. Four coast natives who knew the Koiari language were with us. Wetold our old friend we wanted a large quantity of betel-nuts, and that hehad better set out at once for them. Soon the women and lads were off. We then removed to our old house on the rock, and there told him, throughthe interpreter, what we had expected of him, and that he had not doneit, but that having told him we should pay them, we had come now to do sofor the journey made. We gave our tomahawks, tobacco, and salt, and theold man was truly delighted, saying, "I and my people will take youwherever we may go with safety. " He does not go to sea on the otherside, as Mr. Lawes supposed, and says it is impossible to cross overunless we go up by Yule Island, and there he says it is dangerous, because of the cannibals. In returning, I saw, for the first time in NewGuinea, a bush of the real South Sea Island _kava_ (_Piper methysticum_). 

17_th_. --We have just had a service, and through Kena we have told thenatives the object of our coming and staying, that they might know of thetrue God, and of Jesus Christ the Saviour. It was interesting to markthe different expressions on their faces as they heard for the first timeof God--the God of love, and that as His servants we were here. Whentold of the resurrection they looked at one another; some laughed, othersseemed serious. They were very particular in their inquiries as to thename of the Great Spirit, and of His Son--forgetting, and returning tohear it again. 

18_th_. --Here we are at Uakinumu for another trip; but alas, alas! cannotget carriers. The young men are all off wallaby-hunting, so we muststart. This evening, a woman came in with several bamboos of grubs, which were cooked in the bamboos, then spread on leaves; some salt wasdissolved in the mouth and squirted over all, and it was amusing to seethe gusto with which men, women, and children partook. Oriope is verypersistent in wanting a teacher. He was greatly delighted when I gavehim a large knife; he examined it all over, then pressed it with tenderaffection to his bosom. Fearing lest some friends who are with him atpresent might ask it from him, he returned it to me, requesting me tokeep it until they left. 

20_th_. --Last night, after turning in, I heard a peculiar noise, as ofsome one in great distress, then loud speaking in a falsetto voice, andknew then what was up--we had a spiritist in the village, and revelationswere now about to be made. We were all named, and the places we were tovisit. I felt somewhat anxious as to the revelation, for if it should bethe least doubtful as to our going, no native would stir with us. However, the revelation, on being interpreted to us by Kena, was allright; we were good men, and kind, and the villages would all willinglyreceive us. The spirit dilated at length on the good qualities offoreign tobacco and the badness of the native stuff, and wound up byasking for some foreign. Oriope at once got up and gave from his ownstock what was wanted. These native spiritists are terrible nuisances;they get whatever they ask, and the natives believing so thoroughly inthem, they have the power of upsetting all arrangements and causingserious trouble. This morning, I found our spirit friend to be a man whosat in our house all day yesterday, a stranger from an inland village. Hehas quite a different look from the other natives--an anxious, melancholyexpression. While at morning coffee, he came and sat down alongside ofus all right, and we learned from him that the spirit of a deceasedfriend comes into him, and then things are revealed, the spirit speakingthrough him. He says, when we were at Eikiri, a few weeks ago, he knewit, and told the people of his village of it. 

The wallaby-hunters are to come in this afternoon with great supplies. When sitting round the fire with our old chief, we asked him if he knewof any tailed folks about inland. "Oh dear, yes. " And then he gave us aperfect and laughable description of what must be some creature of themonkey tribe. It climbs, laughs, and talks a peculiar language of itsown; it scratches the head, slaps the thigh, and sits down to eat like aman. I then said, "But they are not really men?" "Well, not exactly, but very near it; they are hairy all over, and some are perfectly black. "The tail, according to his description, must be about a fathom long. Weare to see them, and must, he says, secure one or two, dead or alive. Ourspirit is out in his prognostications, the wallaby-hunters have notreturned, and we cannot leave to-morrow. 

21_st_. --Our spirit friend is quite out as yet, for here we are nursingPatience, and trying to make her a dear friend. We are promised a startto-morrow. In the evening, the hunters came in with large supplies ofwallaby. They report innumerable horses and foreigners as having gone toKupele; we suppose it to be Goldie's party. From to-day's shooting, theold man got a green parrot, and devoured it raw. Oriope dressed himselfin his fighting gear, and went through a few antics; he looked a perfectfiend. He is very proud of a stone club he possesses with a piece brokenoff; he says it was broken in felling a tremendous fellow in aneighbouring village. He killed him. "What, stand before me!"

22_nd_. --I was eating a banana this morning, when I was told not to throwthe skin away, but hand it to them, which I did, when it was passed roundand kissed by all with short ejaculations. I asked what it meant, andwas told it was their manner of thanking the spirits for ripe bananas. Westarted at eight a. M. With eight carriers and our old friend, and twentyinland natives returning home with wallaby; one poor woman had two largekits on her back, and an infant in another, hanging in front of her. Wewere seven hours on the tramp, along a good path, on which horses couldget along well. The most difficult ascent was shortly after we leftUakinumu; but the path was good. The last hour of travelling was in athunderstorm, with a regular tropical pour of rain. When we neared thevillage Marivaeanumu, the men came rushing out with their spears andshields, thinking it was an attacking party; but on seeing Maka, who wasjust behind the first native, and I following up, they shouted out, _Nao_, _nao_! (foreigners), and ran back with their spears. The villageis small, and the houses very dilapidated; it is 1800 feet abovesea-level. Maka was buying taro with salt, and having finished, somenatives noticed damp salt adhering to his hand; they seized the hand, andin turn licked it until quite clean. Grains of salt falling were soughtfor and picked up. The shields here are the same as at Hood Bay, beautifully made. They are going to fight soon with another district, and are making great preparations in spears, clubs, and shields. 

23rd. --Our spiritist gave us a very short and indistinct seance lastnight. A man speared the other day in a wallaby hunt, near the Laroki, he told us, was dead. He seemed to be raving a great deal, and wound upthe first part with, _Nao kuku daure_ (Foreign tobacco is bad). Continuing to rave and disturb sleep, I told Oriope that, if that spiritdid not at once go back where it came from, I should certainly have tomake it; he reported what I said, and the spirit thought it advisable toleave. We started this morning after a good breakfast, and had goodtravelling across a fine level country E. S. E. For about four hours, crossing several times the head of the Laroki: it is a magnificentcountry for horses. In somewhat thick scrub, a youth met the first ofour party, and was fraternizing very feelingly with them: I appeared, andhe took to his heels, and no calling of friends or foreigners could bringhim back. We came suddenly upon a woman and two children, and, poorthings! they went into a terrible state; nothing would comfort them;beads, tobacco, and salt lost their charm on them. The family pig waswith them; it danced, grunted, advanced, retired, and finally made at me. In the morning I took a piece of plaster from my heel, and threw it intothe fireplace; instant search was made for it by about a dozen natives;it was found, and handed back to me, they making signs that I shouldthrow it somewhere else. Yesterday morning I unthinkingly put the loosehair from my comb into the fire, and great was the outcry. 

We are now in Nameanumu, in the Sogeri district, and in a fine housetwelve feet from the ground. We are about 1530 feet above sea-level. Teachers here need have no difficulty about food; there is a greatabundance all round of taro, banana, sugar-cane, and bread-fruit. Ateacher with some "go" in him, and a good earnest wife to help him, woulddo well here. I am inclined to think an easier way here will be fromMoumiri; but we have to travel with natives where they can take us withsafety to themselves. Sitting round the fire a little while ago, ourspirit friend having just left us, an old woman shouted out to Oriope tolook out, as the spirit was about to go through the thatch near to wherehe was sitting. Instant search was made, but nothing found. She thencalled out from her verandah that it had gone, as Rua and Maka were doingsomething with their guns. I may say the old woman was with us lastnight, and heard my threat. We have had the description here of someother animal that is in the Kupele and Moroka districts. It is adangerous one to go near, and several have lost their lives from it. 

24_th_. --Very heavy rain. A number of people have come in from thevillages to have a look at us, so I have to go through the process ofbaring arms and chest. This forenoon they described an animal to us thatI think must be the tiger--a long animal, with a long tail and largepaws, treads lightly when seeing its prey, and then bounds upon it, tearing the bowels out first. They say they are as long as thehouse--twelve feet. We are not prepared to tackle such, customers. Ourhost is a quiet man, with a very pleasing expression of countenance. Ilike the people much, and pray God the day is near when they shall havethe Gospel preached unto them, and receive it, and know it to be thepower of God unto salvation. Evil spirits reign over them, and theutterance of every rascally spiritist is thoroughly believed. 

They seem very much attached to their children, and in their own peculiarway, I dare say, love their wives. Husband and wife meeting after aseparation is strange. Some who returned with us had been away for afortnight; their wives looked pleased when they saw them, so did thehusbands; not a word was spoken, only a look; clubs and spears were putdown, and the husbands went to where other men were sitting, the wives tolight fires and cook food; when cooked, the wife took it to the husband, who ate a little, gave away some, and then went and sat by his wife. Ihave noticed that the wives are particularly happy when preparing thisreturn food. Oriope's wife, who accompanied us, is ill with a cold; Iwished her to take a dose of chlorodyne, but she cried and hesitatedmuch; the old man then took the cup and told her to look; he drank someof it, said it was not bad, and then pressed her to drink it off, whichshe did. 

25_th_. --We left this morning at eight, and arrived at Orofedabe, in theFavele district, at one p. M. The walking was good and steady, the firstfew miles along the valley beneath a mountain in the Sogeri district, which we called Mount Nisbet, and the range near to Eikiri. We crossedthe Laroki several times, and sat near its head; then ascended an easyridge of the Owen Stanley Range. We travelled for about two hours alongthis ridge, then descended, crossing two streams, which we suppose to bethe head streams of the Kemp Welch, flowing into Hood Bay. There are sixsmall villages on ridges close by, high mountains all round, and not faroff the mountain on which the wild animal lives. They tried to persuadeus that this was Meroka, and there was no use our going further; but wecould not believe it, and I brought my compass out, and pointed to themwhere Eikiri, Sogeri, Kupele, and Hapele were, and told them where Iexpected to find Meroka, which cannot be very far off. When they saw Iknew something of our position, they said we could not get to Meroka, because of rocks and wild beasts. At the village we slept the last twonights they did all they could to detain us, because of the salt andbeads. They were assisted by Oriope, who was anxious that all should goto his cousin and friends, with whom we were staying. In a conversationthey had under the house, shortly after we arrived, I could hearsufficient to enable me to understand they would keep us there, and notlet other villages get salt and beads. I got thoroughly vexed with theold man, and told him he could return home, and that unless we sawnumerous villages with plenty of people we should not again return here. He turned right round, and told us we should see Favele and Meroka, andmany villages, only we must return to his cousin's; that was all right, we certainly should return. This morning, I told him to remain and takecare of his wife; that the people here would lead us and carry ourthings. He begged of me to leave some of the things to ensure ourreturn, and I did so. Some of the people here are very dark and othersvery light. 

26_th_. --They tried hard to prevent our going to Meroka this morning, saying we should be eaten by the _Jakoni_ (wild beast)--and how couldthey return? That would not do--go I must; so I got the things out, andasked some Meroka natives, who had come in, to pick them up and let usstart. They refused, and joined in with our friends, saying we hadbetter remain. No; I must see Meroka, and until I saw it not a tarowould be bought nor a pile of salt given. They all sat down, lookingtrue savages. After some time, I said, "Meroka, or we return at once. " Igot my bag and went on to the path; they got up, and called to me to comeback--they would go to Meroka, but leave the things, and return here tosleep. No; I must have the things; I might want to sleep at Meroka. Thatwas terrible, the salt would be finished, and there would be none forthem here. Would I not consent to their taro being bought, and then theywould go with me? No; Meroka first, and taro when we return. 

Seeing there was nothing for it--that go I would--they consented, and theMeroka folks picked up the things, and away we went. It was a short walkacross the side of a ridge, down about 600 feet and up to 1500, and thenalong another ridge. We soon had crowds to see us, men, women, andchildren; and all were delighted, for we bought their taro. The villagewe stayed at was new, and they told us formerly they lived further in onthe mountain, but a man was eaten by the _Jakoni_, and they came down. Anumber of natives were in mourning for the man eaten. After some time, we got up to ascend the ridge, to have a good view of the villages anddecide on our position. They tried hard to prevent us, but we went on, afew following to the next village. They pretended great fear of the_Jakoni_, and at some places begged of us to tread lightly, and not tospeak. It was all a ruse to get us back. We went on, and up to thehighest village, where we had a splendid view. We counted fourteenvillages on the ridges in the Meroka basin and on the other side of theriver we had crossed, and as many more known as Havele. I believe itwould be much easier to get here from Eikiri than from Sogeri. Thenatives of Oriramamo, the highest village, told us they went from thereto Eikiri in one day. 

The people of Meroka are very mixed, some very dark, others very light. Some of the women had quite an Eastern Polynesian look; some of thechildren were well-formed, and really pretty. A few men hadlight-coloured whiskers; curly heads abounded, although a number hadstraight hair. They say they are not Koiari. The Koiari comprisesMunikahila, Eikiri, Sogeri, Taburi, Makapili Pakari; and Eikiri is N. W. From Oriramamo; Mount Bellamy is W. N. W. A high round mountain, I havenamed Ben Cruachan, east; Mount Nisbet, W. S. W. The high rock on theeasterly side of Mount Nisbet is just over the house where we slept, andwill be known in future as the Clachan. They say there are five kinds ofwild animals on the mountains at the back, and but for these they couldeasily cross to Kupele. The Jakoni, Gomina, and Agila are very large andfierce. The Papara and Gadana are small, but fierce. We were eatingbiscuits, and they begged for a very small piece each, to keep as a charmto help them catch pigs. Hairs from the beard are in great demand ascharms. Having seen all we wanted, and not being able to persuade thenatives to accompany us up to the mountain to see the wild animals, Idecided to return to Orofedabe; so we returned to the village, gave thetaro we bought to the people, paid our attendants and for the house whereour things were, and away we went. Our friends were glad to see us, andrejoiced greatly when the taboo was taken off the salt, and taro wasbought. We are having rain and thunderstorms every afternoon. 

27_th_. --Maka poised a stick twelve feet long on his finger; the nativestried it and failed; again Maka did it, and all who were looking on cameto the conclusion it was very easy for him to do, as a spirit held it forhim. In each place we have been, when at prayers, all the natives aremost respectful, keeping perfect silence and bending their heads. We hada fine tramp back to-day, and a refreshing bath in the Laroki after it. We have paid our carriers, and they are rejoicing greatly. We were gladto find our old friend and his wife well, and the things we left just aswe hung them up. They are very anxious to have teachers here. We weretelling them that we could see no people, and they have gone and broughtin great crowds, saying, "No people! what are these?" I cut up tobaccoand spread it out on a leaf in the centre of the crowd, and called out, "For Sogeri. " One of their number was appointed by them, and hedistributed it, all sitting quietly round. I got some salt in a paper, and did as with the tobacco. All rose, and in order approached, tooksome and retired, leaving the remainder, nearly half, for a very old man. The beads I gave to the women, the men saying they ought to have had themtoo. "Come and live with us; there is no place like Sogeri--it is good, it is large, it is peaceful, and there is plenty of food. " So say theSogerians. I was sitting on the ladder of the house, the crowd sittinground. Rua was in the bush with his gun; he fired at a bird, and it wasamusing to see the simultaneous jerk of the crowd when they heard theshot. 

28_th_. --Last night, a chief, Biaiori, of Eribagu, slept in the housewith us, to be ready to lead us to his village and other villages aboutin the morning. We started about half-past seven; but it was evident atthe start he had been talked over during the night in quiet whisperings, so as not to take us anywhere but his own village. We walked about amile and a half, and came to his village, in a fine dry position, muchpreferable to the one we had left--good houses, one house floored withcedar slabs, and having a fine verandah all round. I wished to see achief I had met yesterday, Jaroga, and was told he was at the nextvillage, so we up with our bundles and away for about half a mile furtheron, to a nice clean village. I at once asked Jaroga to lead us to theplaces he named yesterday; he was quite willing, and began pointing inthe various directions, and naming the villages, but was soon silenced bysigns and words from others; he then said he could not go; so we left togo to Epakari; a young man very much attached to Maka, and who has beenwith us for ten days, having promised yesterday to lead us there. We hadto carry our bags--not a very agreeable job. We had great excitement atleaving, our old chief insisting on our going back to Uakinumu; but wehad discarded him, and were determined to find our own way should Someri, Maka's friend, fail us. I gave orders to keep a good look-out on Someri, who was carrying a bundle, and he was given into Maka's care. Our youngfriend was very quiet, and tried skulking behind and moving on fastahead. When crossing a ridge about three miles from the village, I wasleading, when we heard Maka calling for Someri. Rua at once returned, and found the bird had flown, leaving the bundle, but carrying with himthe camp tomahawk, which Maka had foolishly let him have to cut a stickwith. It would be folly to return to get the tomahawk, so we kept southand west for some distance, when we came to a deserted village; then weturned west. We crossed the Laroki several times before we came into theopen country; at our last crossing we met a company of natives, allarmed, on watch for Makapili natives, who were expected to attack them. They took our bundles, and led us to a small village, where we met someof our Marivaeanumu friends, who led us to their village and to our oldhouse. A young child called Maka was presented for presents, the fathertelling Maka he called the child after him, because he was his friendwhen we were here last. We have now the open country before us, andexpect no trouble in getting along. The natives are all unsettled atpresent, and every man we meet is armed. I can see the country better to-day than when here last week. Marivaeanumu is on a rise near the hillsof Eikiri and north-north-west from Sogeri. The latter district is in avalley between the Owen Stanley Range and Mount Nisbet, to the south-westof it. Eribagu would make a good station for the Sogeri district. Thisplace would be a suitable station being at the head of the plain thatreaches away to the Astrolabe on the one side, and up to Vetura andUakinumu on the other, stretching east by Mount Nisbet, and away east andsouth, by the country at the back of Mapakapa. The Laroki rises in theOwen Stanley Range, and is the drain for the Sogeri district and all theplain; it is very circuitous, and near here very deep and slow, flowingwest. 

29_th_. --For nearly six hours we have been travelling with our bags, andI can honestly say I feel tired. We are now at a new village--the housesjust going up--on the top of the high green hill in front of Munikahila, overlooking the Kupa Moumiri valley. The village is named Keninumu, andconsists of four houses at present, two on high trees and two on highrocks. We have pitched our tent close by, and intend resting untilMonday, when we hope to start for the plain--a very fine country, but nonatives. This part of the plain is dry and barren, with stuntedgum-trees. A party met us when near the village, and a woman with achild on her shoulder, I suppose seeing me look tired, insisted on mygiving her my bag. I looked at the child, and wondered how she was goingto manage, but that was soon arranged; she made the child sit on her leftshoulder, holding her by the hair; then she took my bundle, and away shewent. Some young men have come in from one of the districts we wish tovisit, and I hope to keep them until we leave; it will be a help and ofgreat value as an introduction at this time of trouble. We are 1440 feetabove sea-level. 

A fortnight ago there was a great wallaby hunt down at Moumiri, andnatives from all the districts round were present. A native ofMunikahila speared a man from Tabori, who died soon after, so nowMakipili, Epakari, and Efari are said to have joined on with Tabori, andunitedly mean to attack Munikahila. All the natives condemn the murderof the man, because of the time and place. 

31_st_. --Natives all excitement, expecting Munikahila to be attacked. Every evening the men go armed to Munikahila, and the women, children, dogs, and pigs to the bush. I am sorry our Keninumu friends shouldconsider it their duty to assist the murderers. The natives of thedistrict to which the murdered man belonged are quietly biding theirtime, hunting wallaby close by us. The kind woman who assisted me theother day has a son by her first husband living at Keninumu, and for along time she has not seen him, he being afraid to come here. She knowsthat Maka was returning yesterday, and felt sure her son would accompanyhim. When some distance from here, Maka fired a shot, to let us know hewas coming, to which we responded, assuring him all was right. Onhearing the shot, the poor woman became quite excited, came and sat downby our fire, got up and got us firewood, sat down again, telling Kena toget the taro cooked for Maka, rose again and fetched more firewood, thensat down in front of the path, looking steadily and anxiously for thetravellers. Poor body! they came in sight, but her son was not one ofthem. She seemed to feel it very much, rose, went to her house, and wasnot seen again until this morning. God grant the day is near when thesong the heavenly host sang, "Glory to God in the highest, peace on earthand good will toward men, " shall be known and enjoyed here!

_September_ 1_st_. --We left this morning at seven o'clock and drew up atMakapili at four p. M. , resting by the way. For salt, tobacco, and beads, we had help all the way. What appears a fine level plain in the distanceturns out to be a fine country, full of ridges and luxuriant valleys, abounding in every kind of native vegetable. From the departure thismorning until our bringing-up we could have ridden horses at a finecanter along the ridges from one to another. This is the best country Ihave yet seen in New Guinea, and the natives seem very kind and friendly. At the Laroki we had to strip, and, just above small rapids, holding onby a long line fastened to poles on each side, we crossed over. Thenatives have the line to help them when the river is up. We called atseveral villages on the ridges, passed others, some on large table-rocks. Fancy a table-rock with twenty or thirty houses on it. At Chokinumu, avillage 1600 feet above the sea, S. E. From Marivaenumu seven miles, wealarmed the people so that they rushed away, leaving us the village. Shortly a man came back, pretending to be very unconcerned, chewing betel-nut; we soon were friends, and he called out to the others, and theyreturned. We told him where we were going, and he said he and his wifewould accompany us, as we were the first foreigners who had ever been tohis village, and he would not leave us. At other villages they alsocleared out, screaming terribly. Gimenumu, 1900 feet above sea-level, and two miles east from Chokinumu, will make a fine mission station--alarge village, fine plantations, and plenty of water. We crossed severalstreams from the Astrolabe Range, all flowing into the Laroki. The wholedrainage of the Astrolabe Range and of this country falls into theLaroki. We are now in Vaiako, Makipili district, 2250 feet, in a reallylovely spot. 

There are a great many natives in this district. About four miles fromhere we passed a deserted village on a table-rock, at one time the homeof this people; but the Sogeri natives came over and killed eleven ofthem, and the others thought it time to settle somewhere else. We havenow a splendid view of Mount Owen Stanley, due north of us, and risingfar away, clear and distinct above a thick mass of cloud. Mount Bellamystands alone, with a bare south-east side, and Mount Nisbet just acrossfrom here, behind which is Sogeri, so much dreaded by this people. Onall the ridges stretching away to the eastward from here behind Kapakapaare natives. A woman, coming to have a look at us, spied our black dog, Misi Dake, and off she went, climbing a tree, kit and all, quicker than Iever saw a native climb before. We met a fine old patriarch in a streamabout two miles from here, and the meeting with our friend from Chokinumuwas most affecting, touching chins and falling into one another's armsweeping. He sat down beside me with grave dignity, and the woman fromChokinumu sat in front of him, chanting and weeping. We had strawberriescoming along, with little or none of the flavour of the home strawberry. The raspberry bush is very abundant. 

2_nd_. --Just after sunrise we had a great crowd up at the tent to have apeep at us. At eight o'clock, we started for the summit of theAstrolabe, to have a look at the sea. It is very broken on the summit, and we had a good deal of ascending and descending before we got overKaili, to be disappointed in not seeing the sea, the fog hanging thickunder our feet. We returned by a very circuitous path, passing severalvillages built on rocks and trees. On one large table-rock was a snugvillage, and to the east of the rock four large posts beautifully carved. On feast days, the food is collected close to these, and a platform isfixed to the posts, on which dancing takes place. We returned at threep. M. The old chief soon followed us up to the camp with a large presentof food, and saying he hoped we would soon return. I hope the same. After some delay, so that it might not appear as payment for the present, we gave our present to the old chief; when he got the tomahawk, he weptfor joy, looked at his friends, then at us, pressed it to his bosom, andthen kissed it. The chiefs name is Kunia. 

3_rd_. --We left Makipili this morning at eight o'clock, and came alongleisurely, arriving at Chokinumu at half-past ten. The chief and hiswife who accompanied us pressed us to stay a night in their village, and, seeing it would displease them if we went on, we consented. We had athorough downpour of rain in the afternoon, after a very hot sun, thethunder rolling all round us. The chief Lohiamalaka and his wife areexceedingly kind and attentive; they have kept close by us since we lefthere on Monday. I am sorry for the Makipili people; they are so afraidof Sogeri, that they have left their houses, and are living in the bushand under the shelter of rocks. Sogeri, Makipili says, will listen to noconditions of peace. Several overtures have been made, but all areuseless. We were told at several places that if we ventured to Makipiliwe should never return; but we have been there, were treated kindly, andpressed to return. 

4_th_. --Using our blankets yesterday as a flag for our tent, they got sowet that it required a day to dry them, so we decided to remain here andvisit the Laroki Falls. Ten days ago, we found from the natives thatthey were near here. The native name is _Round_. We found the falls ina deep gorge formed by the west end of Astrolabe and east end of VeturaRange. On each side of the gorge the mountains run sharp down, in manyplaces precipitous rocks. The falls are E. From Port Moresby, E. S. E. From Moumili, and S. E. From Vetura proper. They are grand, and wellworth seeing. I wish we had seen them from below. For a long distanceup there are small falls and rapids. The water comes surging on, andthen takes a fearful leap of many hundred feet on to a ledge, and fromthere to the boiling cauldron below. The noise is deafening. Where westood, nearly level with the water, it was 1340 feet above sea-level, andI do not think that from there to the cauldron could be less than 900feet. I think it may be possible to get to them from the north side byMangara, and then we can rightly tell the height of the falls. 

5_th_. --Left Chokinumu this morning at eight, and had a pleasant walk forthree hours, ascending gradually the Astrolabe until we reached thesummit at the back of Tupuselei, 2300 feet high. We were resting beforedescending, when a native party appeared and approached us, somewhatscared. They said on coming up they heard the noise as of chopping wood(we were marking trees). They came on, and saw through the bush a whiteman, and at once went back; then, hearing as if natives were with himspeaking in Koiari, they returned and determined to meet. They were muchpleased at receiving a present of salt. We descended on the west side ofthe Astrolabe; the descent, being steep and difficult, took us some time. In the afternoon we arrived at Janara, near to Efari, at the back ofPyramid Point, the Astrolabe bearing north. Our friend Lohiamalaka, thechief of Geminumu Monito, and three youths are with us. I have never meta kinder and more friendly native than Lohiamalaka. Janara is a goodlarge district, and seems to have a number of natives. The village weare in is 600 feet above sea-level. Tupuselei is the nearest missionstation, and a teacher placed here or at Efari would have constantcommunication with that place. I was the first to enter the village. They had heard us cooeying to one another; so only saw one man, and hetried to look very unconcerned, with a bamboo pipe, trying to light it, but too excited to succeed. The women had shut themselves indoors withthe children, and the men had gone into the bush close by with theirweapons. 

6_th_. --From Janara to Epakari there are several steep ridges to go upand down, and the last ascent is truly steep. It took us three goodsteady hours' walking and climbing to get to Karikatana, the first of sixvillages in this district. Dawes and Stone were at a village, I believe, on a ridge nearer to Port Moresby. The chief, Nikanivaipua, received usgraciously, and insisted on our taking his house. We paid off ourfriends, and they departed well pleased. We received presents of cookedfood and smoked wallaby. They were prepared for us, having been shoutedto an hour before we arrived at the village by our friend Lohiamalaka. The village looks to be in a fine healthy position, close to the west endof the Astrolabe, the high bluff bearing N. E. They have plenty of allkinds of food. We crossed from the Janara, a good-sized mountain torrentflowing S. W. To Bootless Inlet. We are 700 feet high. High bluff ofAstrolabe, N. E. ; Bootless Inlet, S. S. W. ; peak of Astrolabe above Kaili, E. S. E. 

7_th_. --Our friend Lohiamalaka turned up again last evening; he did notlike leaving us. This morning he really set off, promising to visit usat Port Moresby in October; that is, not this moon, nor the next, but theone that follows. I asked for a little ginger to eat, and they havebrought it me in bundles. It is really good when green, with salt. Alarge number of natives attended our service, and were truly orderly--nota whisper, and during prayer every head bent. On the Astrolabe, theother day, Lohiamalaka said he felt anxious for us in entering Janara. Rua, through Kena, told him not to fear anything on our account, as theGreat Spirit was with us, and no harm could come near us. Last evening, he was telling the people here of his fears, and what Rua said, "and howtrue it was the Great Spirit or something is with them. " At all thevillages Lohiamalaka repeated all he could remember of what he had beentold, and of our singing and praying. Every evening he would sit at thetent door and get us to sing for the benefit of a crowd of nativesoutside, who, having heard from himself of our musical powers, refused togo to their homes at sunset, and insisted on remaining until after _noko_(singing). When the Koiari visit the coast they go in for begginglargely, and they generally get what they ask, as the Motu people arevery much afraid of their spiritual power, they being thought to holdpower over the sun, wind, and rain, and manufacturing or withholding thelatter at will. When the Motu people hear that Koiarians are coming, they hide their valuables. All the young swells here have head-dressesof dogs' teeth, got from the seaside natives. At Eikiri, they told usthey got theirs by killing and stealing. We can truly say we are underarms in this house--sixty-two spears overhead, four shields on walls, andtwo stone clubs keeping watch at the door. A Makipili woman has beentelling Kena how she happens to be here. Formerly her people and thesewere at enmity. Makipili sought peace, but had no pig. She was selectedto supply want of pig, and taken with food. When she grew up, the oldman (not her husband) insisted on her living with him. 

8_th_. --We had six hours' good walking, and are now encamped under theshade of Vetura. The country from Epakari to here is very ridgy, and, after leaving the ridges of Epakari, very barren. Coming suddenly on alarge party of men, women, and children returning from a dance, they wereso frightened when we called out, _Naimo_! that they set off, kits, spears, and drums, and no fine words would bring them back. We haveseven natives with us; the old chief says he must see us safe toKeninumu. We passed a fine village--Umiakurape--on a ridge west ofKarikatana; the chiefs name is Vaniakoeta. It would make a splendidstation. The high ridge at the back of Epakari, along which we came, is1000 feet high, and from it we saw Fisherman's Island, Redscar Bay, Bootless Inlet, and the whole coast east to Round Head. 

9_th_. --Arrived at Keninumu at half-past ten a. M. Found all well. Thenatives are constantly on the look-out for the Tabori attack onMunikahila. We hear the Munikahila natives have been stealing fromGoldie. 

14_th_. --Since our return we have been house-building, but are getting onvery slowly. I fear we are six weeks too late for the Kupele district, and shall have to leave it for another season. It would be awkward toget in and not get back until the end of the wet season. I find ourfriend the chief, Poroko, has had two wives; one he killed lately. Shewas in the plantation, and some young fellows coming along, she sat downwith them to have a smoke and get the news; Poroko heard of it, and onher coming home in the evening he killed her. A woman at Favelle said, "Oh, the Koiari man thinks nothing of killing his wife. " The word for"sneeze" in Koiari is _akiso_. When they are leaving for a journey orgoing for the night they call out _kiso_, and often from their housesthey shout their good-night to us, _kiso_. There is a woman in deepmourning for her daughter. She has hanging round her neck all theornaments once the property of the deceased, and along with them thejawbone. The headless body she visits occasionally, and rubs herself allover with the juice from it!

18_th_. --We have a great crowd of natives in from Kupele, the nearestdistrict to Mount Owen Stanley. They are the same race of people as atMeroka--some very dark, others very light-coloured. Their weapons arethe same as the Koiari, as also is their dress. Two men are in mourning, and are wearing netted vests. The chief is rather a fine-looking fellow, and dressed profusely with cassowary feathers. They all have a wisp ofgrass bound tight at one end, and hanging from a girdle behind, to beused as a seat when they sit down. It is a stretch of imagination to sayit looks like a tail. They are very anxious we should accompany them ontheir return, and say they will show us plenty of villages and people. Yesterday we had great feasting in the villages on yams and taro. To anEastern Polynesian it would be ridiculous to call it a feast, seeingthere was no pig. In the evening we had a good deal of palavering withspears and shields, fighting an imaginary foe, and at times retreating. Their movements are swift and graceful: advance, retreat, advance, pursue, ward off to the right, to the left, shield up, down, aside, struck on knee, a shout, all gone through, with the greatest alacrity, and I am not at all astonished at so few being killed or wounded in afight. They value shields that bear the marks of spears. 

19_th_. --Our old friend Oriope came in to-day, and handed us thetomahawk, stolen by the deserter on our last trip. He says when he heardhow Someri had served us he sent at once to Sogeri, and got the tomahawk, telling them it was very wrong to steal from such dear friends of his. One of the Kupele natives stole a knife, but he had to give it up to theKeninumu friends, who returned it to us. I should have liked to havestarted a station at Chokinumu, so as to try the climate of both sides ofthe district this wet season. 

23_rd_. --We find it impossible to get the men to help us with the housewhilst so many of us are here, so we return to the port, hoping to getinto Chokinumu soon. The people, seeing that we are really going, havebegged hard for Jakoba to be left, and they promise faithfully to assisthim in finishing the house. Jakoba being anxious to remain with them, Iconsented. 

24_th_. --Arrived at Moumiri about two p. M. We heard there that Taboriand Makipili have been murdering. A number of people from Marivaenumuwere here wallaby-hunting, and on returning were met; three women and twomen were killed. They report here, also, that Kupele proper (a smallvillage) no longer exists; the Koiari to the west of us having gone overand killed all but five, who have gone to another village. 

26_th_. --Returned to Port Moresby to-day, and found all well, and goodnews from all the stations. The services have gone on here in Rua'sabsence with great success. On two Sundays the chief Poi conducted theservices, addressing those present, and telling them he thought that nowit was time for them all to receive the Gospel which had been sofaithfully taught them during these years; in prayer he remembered us whowere inland, and asked our Father in heaven to watch over us and bring usback safely, and to enlighten all of them at the seaside. 

CHAPTER IV. PEACE-MAKING. 

Mr. Chalmers asked by the natives to go to Elema--Nativefears--Difficulties at the start--Namoa--Delena--A Motumotu tradingcanoe--Interview with Semese, chief of Lese--Christian natives--Friendlymeeting with a war canoe--Arrival at Motumotu--Friendly reception--ViewingMr. Chalmers's feet--Natives in full dress--Sunday open-air service--Sagoas an article of commerce--Peace agreed upon--Return to Boera. 

When at Kabadi in 1880, the natives begged of me to endeavour to preventthe Elema natives paying them another visit, as they were now living inthe bush near the hills. All along the coast the people were muchafraid, expecting a raid, and at last news came in from Maiva thatMotumotu and Lese were making great preparations that they would visitMotu, kill Tamate and Ruatoka, then attack right and left. Last year, when leaving, they said they would return and pay off accounts, kill theforeigners first, then all the natives they could get hold of. 

Under these circumstances, I resolve to visit Motumotu, and beard thelion in his den. I did not believe they would touch me, but I fearedthey meant mischief to Kabadi and the coast villages. No time could belost, as we were in a bad month for rain and storms, and the coast lineis long and bad. The natives said it was too late, yet I resolved to tryit. 

On the 5th January, 1881, we opened the new church at Port Moresby, andbaptised the first three New Guinea converts. The church was crowded, and all seemed interested. I arranged for Piri and his wife to accompanyme to the Gulf, they taking the whale-boat. We cannot call at Kabadi onour way down, as we must hurry on, but our natives here were going toKabadi, and gladly took the news. 

On January 10, the flag flying on the boat told all that we were tostart. Our leader ran off to Kaili last night, but Huakonio, one of thethree baptised on the 5th, was willing to go. Our boat's crew wereconsidered fools, rushing into the arms of death. Wives, children, andfriends were gathered round weeping. The men said, "Cannot you see thatif Tamate lives we shall live, and if he is murdered we shall bemurdered? It is all right; we are going with him, and you will see usback all right with sago and betel-nuts. " Huakonio told me in the boatthat every means imaginable but physical force were used to prevent theiraccompanying me; and he added, "We know it is all right; the Spirit thathas watched over you in the past" (naming the various journeys) "will doso now; and if we return safe, won't the people be ashamed?"

We left Port Moresby about nine a. M. With a light head wind; outsidefound the current very strong, setting easterly. We arrived at Boera atfour p. M. , and found Piri and his wife ready to start at once. Piri hasa Boera crew, and we increased ours here by two. Here the natives didnot seem at all afraid, and many wished to accompany us. 

On leaving Boera, it was a beautiful clear and moonlight night, and therewas a light land breeze. Pulling brought us to Varivara Islands, inRedscar Bay, about two a. M. , where we anchored until six when we tried tomake Cape Suckling. As it was blowing hard from the north-west, we hadto put into Manumanu. The Motu traders did all they could to persuade usto give up Motumotu, and to visit Kabadi. Both crews would gladly havegiven up; their friends told them to leave us, and return in the tradingcanoes. They came to me to say "the bad weather has set in, the windsand rains are here, we cannot go on. "

I replied, "Think, my children, of the disgrace. We started to go toMotumotu, and at the first breath of contrary wind we put back. It mustnot be. Let us try it a little longer, and if the wind increases we canput back, and not feel ashamed. "

"You are right, " they rejoined; "we will go on with you. "

At sunset we all got into our boats, and were ready for a start. Afellow who has just returned from Kabadi thought to get over me bysaying, "Tamate, Kabadi are looking daily for you, and they have a largepresent ready; feathers in abundance and sago; your two boats cannot takehalf. "

"I am going to Motumotu, and not all the feathers in Kabadi, nor all thesago they can prepare, will turn me now, until I have made a fair trial, and then, if driven back, I will visit Kabadi. "

I believe our crew had had a talk with that man before he came to me. 

It was five o'clock on January 12th before we got to Namoa, near CapeSuckling. Maiva canoes passed with wallaby from Namoa. When ashore, cooking breakfast, Koloko and her husband, with uncles and aunts, and menand women from the village, came down. The two former were going toMaiva, and the crowd followed to see them embark in one of the largeMaiva canoes. After the bamboo pipe had been passed all round, theembarkation took place, men and women weeping as if taking a finalfarewell. 

When they had gone, we told the people we wished to sleep, and they leftus undisturbed. In the afternoon we came to Delena, where we had righthearty welcome. They are truly glad we are going to Motumotu, as theyfear an attack, and hope our visit will benefit them. They feel sureMotumotu will receive us well, and seeing that I specially visit them, they say it will be all right. The crews feel encouraged, and are atpresent ashore feasting on dugong, sago, and betel-nuts. Some have beenoff for tobacco, and are now laughing at the folly of their friends. Thesorcerer is not in Delena; but even he would do nothing to prevent ourgoing on. We are all ready to start with a land breeze. The crews havesent us word, "When you wish to start, call out; you will see us gladlyspring into the water. "

On leaving Delena with a light breeze and pulling, we reached the Kaveribeach near Cape Possession, about eight a. M. When near Maiva, we met aMotumotu canoe. At first they were afraid to come alongside of us, butafter a little talk we got near them, exchanged presents, and were soonfriends. They seem glad we are going to their home; they say peace willbe arranged. The Motumotu have said that if we only were to visit them, they would gladly make peace. 

It seems that they are very badly off for _uros_ (earthenware pots), andthe native tribes along the coast to the west of them are crying out andblaming them for the scarcity. They are certainly blaming the rightparty; but for Motumotu, the Pari, Vapukori, Port Moresby, Boliapata, andBoera trading canoes would all have been down the coast last season. Theprincipal man in the canoe, knowing that all, except our boatman, BobSamoa, had friends at Motumotu, made friends with him, rubbing noses andhanding his lime gourd, which is to be shown on arrival, and his fatherand friends will receive Bob as his friends. They go on to Lolo in questof _uros_. 

We landed to cook food. On awaking from a sleep, I was astonished tofind a crowd of natives close by, and my friend the Kaveri chief, Arana, sitting near me. Two boys, who were on the beach fishing, seeing usland, ran inland and reported, and he, with two of his wives carryingfood, followed by men and women from the villages, came down. His twowives are now busy cooking, and he is trying to persuade me to call onour return and get his present of sago and food. I could not promise, and he seemed disappointed. 

We left the Kaveri beach and pulled round Cape Possession, passing closein by Oiapu. A heavy sea was rolling in, and a canoe putting off to uswas swamped. People running along the beach called on Piri and me byname to land and feast, but our crews were too frightened, and we wenton. When off Jokea, men, women, and children all came on to the beach, and also by name begged of us to land. We would have done so here, butthe sea was too high, breaking with great force on the fringing reef. Several canoes put off, but only one succeeded in reaching us. Theybegged of us to call on our return, and let them know the result of ourvisit, and said we had better also visit Lese. They think our visit willput all straight. Motumotu, they say, is very undecided as to what todo, but having heard that I was to visit them, put off the decision forsome time, saying, "If he comes, it will be all right, and we shall havepeace, but--" Well, they did not know. They rub noses all round, andmake for the shore, we for the harbour at the mouth of Coombes River, buta very heavy sea running in, we prefer anchoring outside at midnight. 

By five a. M. Up anchor, and away to Lese. Two Naima canoes returningfrom Lolo, where they had been trying to get _uros_, passed close to us. They also are glad of the likelihood of peace and _uros_. At seven, wegot to Lese, and were met by an excited crowd, the majority armed. Weanchored a little out, and would allow no canoes alongside. I called outfor Eeka, and a very old man walked into the sea, when I went ashore andtook him by the hand. Piri and his wife followed, with part of the crewand the Boera and Port Moresby chiefs. We were led to the village, thecrowd increasing as we went along. Piri noticing an enclosed place, wentin to see what it was, and called me to have a look. I went in, but nowomen or youths followed. Inside were two large houses, with rows ofmasks and hats, the latter like small canoes, about ten feet long, madewith very light wood and native cloth. On coming out I was seized by thehand by an elderly man, who, in a towering passion, drew me on. All Icould make out was that somebody was a thief and a liar. The Boera chiefran up, and I asked him what was wrong. "Oh, this is your friend, Semese, the chief you gave the present to when you were last here, and heis angry with Eeka for taking you away. "

"Tell Piri to come up quickly. "

"Piri, go with Eeka as your friend; give him a present as such; it is allright. I go with Semese. "

Soon squatting on the platform, wrath fled, and I had to wait to be fed. 

"But, Semese, I want to press on to Motumotu and see them. I am afraidof the weather coming on bad. "

"Motumotu to-morrow, Lese to-day; you must have a pig. "

"Leave the pig for another visit. "

All was of no avail. A fine pig was speared, brought and laid at myfeet. Semese and the people were in the very best humour. Eeka wasdelighted with Piri, and the latter had a pig presented to him. We gaveour presents, and, feeling tired, I suggested to our friends that we hadbetter take the pigs to the other side of the entrance, to Macey Lagoon. Semese is quite agreeable, now the peace is made, and it was arrangedthat he and his party should visit me with sago at Port Moresby. Bothpigs, ready for cooking, were carried into the boat, and the excitedcrowd, this time all unarmed, were on the shore to see us off. Theypromised not to molest Kabadi again, and that they considered our visitas peace with all the coast villages. 

Macey Lagoon would make a splendid harbour for small vessels, very largevessels not being able to cross the bar. On the eastern side, a bankruns out for nearly a mile, on which the sea breaks; close in by westernshore is a good passage. The great work of the day was feasting andsleeping. There were two Lese men with us, and they said that theMotumotu have been talking of war, not of peace; but now it may bedifferent. To get into Motumotu in the morning, we had come to withintwo miles of the village, and we anchored off. Notwithstanding someanxiety, soon all were asleep. The natives were astonished at thebeautiful weather, and said they felt as if all would be right--the greatand good Spirit who had led us so far and safely would not leave us nowor on the morrow. At every meal on board or ashore they asked ablessing, and our old friend Hula prayed with real earnest feelings. Hewas certainly in earnest to-night when he prayed for the Motumotuans, andthat our visit might be blessed to them. I was charmed with hissimplicity, fervour, and expectancy. 

This old man, a few weeks before, at the close of a meeting at PortMoresby, said, addressing _us_--

"Listen, you think we Motumotuans are not attending to your words; butyou are mistaken. Before you came here, we were always fighting and werea terror to all, east and west, but now it is different. We are at peaceall round; we go about unarmed, and sleep well at night. Soon ourfathers' ancient customs will be given up, and you will see us, old andyoung, coming to be taught the word of the great and good Spirit. "

I was aroused about two a. M. By shouting, and, looking over the gunwale, saw a large double fighting canoe alongside of Piri's boat, in which allwere sound asleep. On awaking, they were startled by the appearance. They were asked by those on the bridge--

"Who are you?"

"Tamate and Piri going to Motumotu. "

Soon all were friends, chewing betel-nut and smoking tobacco. On eachcanoe with paddles were over thirty men, and on the bridge adjoining thecanoes were armed men and a large supply of sago and betel-nuts. Theywere going to Lese to purchase _uros_. They came alongside of our boat, received and gave presents, and then an order was given by one from thebridge, and away they went at full speed. It was a pretty sight in themoonlight to see the canoe move swiftly on, when nearly eight paddles asone touched the water. We rolled ourselves up again for another hour ortwo's sleep. 

At sis a. M. We weighed anchor, and were off to Motumotu. There was agreat crowd on the beach; but it was all right, as boys and girls were tobe seen there, as noisy as the grown-up folks. A chief rushed into thewater, and called on us to come. "Come, with peace from afar; come, friends, and you will meet us as friends. " We went round and entered theriver in deep water, close to eastern bank near to the village. Until wehad a talk, I would allow none but Piri's friend and my friends, Semeseand Rahe, near the boats. They had been told that we were going to fightif they visited us, and that all women and children were to be sent backto the Keiara, and the Keiari fighting men were to be in league with allthe foreigners about. Then they heard that I had been murdered, and wereterribly sorry; but now they saw I was alive, and had come a long way ina "moon" in which neither they nor their forefathers had ever travelled. So now they must make peace. 

I said, "You must not again go near Kabadi, and all along the coast wemust have peace. "

"It is right, we shall not again visit Kabadi. Lealea feasted us withpigs, and pressed us to attack Kabadi, to pay off an old attack on them. It suited us, because Kabadi thought themselves strong; but now it ispeace. "

I landed with them, and went up through the villages, then returning tothe boats we were told to remain there. Shortly three pigs were brought, and our return presents of _uros_, etc. , were carried off. Bob'scalabash has brought him a host of friends. Piri is with his friends atone end of the village, and in the opposite I am to reside in my friendRahe's _dubu_. Semese is his father, and a very old man. The number ofold men and old women and children is astonishing. No enemy dare comenear their villages, and their houses have never been burnt down. TheBoera chief--a capital fellow to have--speaks this dialect very fluently. Our people at first were very much afraid, but soon settled down, and arenow roving about. 

Suddenly the war-horn was heard blowing--not the pig-horn, so often heardon the coast. I wondered what was up, but it turned out to be only theyouth training. Two new double canoes came down the river with largecomplements of paddles, all young lads, gaily dressed. A number of youngmen, painted and extravagantly dressed, have been here; they latelykilled some Moveavans, and are hence greatly admired by old and young. 

I had to take off my boots and socks, and allow my feet to be admired, also to show off my chest. All shout with delight, and every new arrivalmust have a look. The sun was frightfully hot. Some men were fishing onthe breakers; they had a long post, with a cross-bar, on which theystand, fixed in the sand, head covered with native cloth, and bow andarrow ready. 

A number of people came in from Vailala. They wish I would go down withthem, but it is too late to go so far in an open boat. I have hadanother meeting with the leading men, and I think all is now peace. Myfriend Rahe seems a great personage, with relatives innumerable. Hewants to know if I would like to be alone in the _dubu_; only say it, andall the men will leave. I prefer them remaining, and I will make myselfcomfortable on the front platform. 

In the evening, men and women--I suppose _they_ would say "elegantlydressed"--bodies besmeared with red pigment, croton and _dracaena_leaves, and feathers of various birds fixed on head, arms, and legs, paraded the villages. At present all move about armed, and in thisestablishment bows, bent and unbent, and bundles of arrows are on allsides. 

Rahe has just been to me to ask for boat medicine. 

"What do you mean, Rahe?"

"I want you to give me some of that medicine you use to make your boatsail. "

"I use no medicine, only Motu strong arms. "

"You could never have come along now without medicine. "

"We use no medicine, and have come along well. "

I had a splendid night's rest. My mosquito-net and blanket caused greatamusement. My attendants are innumerable and attentive, and will allowno noise near. Our service in the morning was very noisy--everybodyanxious for quiet must needs tell his neighbour to be quiet. Our oldPort Moresby chief prayed in the Motumotu dialect. The Boera chieftranslated for Piri and me. They are very anxious to know of theresurrection and where Beritane spirits go after death. 

In the afternoon we held service in the main street. The singingattracted a very large and noisy crowd but when our old friend began topray it was as if a bomb-shell had exploded, men, women, and childrenrunning as for dear life to their homes. Another hymn brought them back, armed and unarmed. We had a long talk on peace, and they wished I wouldgo with them to Moveave, and make peace. One division of these villagesthey have simply wiped out. I asked them to leave Moveave alone, andwhen a fit season comes I will ascend the river with them, and makepeace. 

I have visited the party who last week killed several of the Moveavans, and they promised not to attack them again. The Kaback jewellery isabout in abundance. 

Semese spoke nearly all the night through, exhorting all to peace, andthat now we had visited them they ought no more to go about exaltingthemselves, fighting with their neighbours, and speaking evil of theirfriends, the Motuans. Rahe has brought his son, whom he has namedTamate. I have no doubt he will be an expensive honour. 

We went up the William River to-day. At mouth, on the west side, are twoislands, viz. , Iriho and Biaveveka. Between the latter and the mainlandis an entrance into Alice Meade Harbour. The river is broad and deep. Both banks are lined with sago palms. 

When a young man marries a young woman, the custom here is to pay nothingfor her; but for a widow something very great. The people live chieflyon sago. Sago is cooked with shell-fish, boiled with bananas, roasted onstones, baked in the ashes, tied up in leaves, and many other ways. Wehave received large presents of sago, both boats bearing as much as issafe to carry. We leave in the morning. At present a man is goingthrough the streets in great wrath, having been to his plantation andmissed a bunch of bananas. As he moves along he shouts out his loss, andchallenges the thief. 

We had a gathering of old men until late into the night, and they closedwith a wail, chanted, with drums keeping time. Hours before daylightSemese was up, waiting for me to turn out. 

We had a fine run back to Yule, where, at sunset, we were met by aterrific gale of wind and a thunderstorm. We had to put in close to theland, and for four hours sit it out in a deluge of rain. It was sooninky dark, the lightning very vivid, and the thunder deafening. Piri'sboat anchored close alongside. On the weather clearing up a little, wecrossed Hall Sound to Delena, where we were soon met by natives carryingtorches, and were led to their houses. A change of clothing, and we wereall as comfortable as possible. 

We spent the hour of midnight with Kone and Levas, chiefs of Delena, telling them of our visit to the west, and its success in establishingpeace. They were greatly delighted, and will do me the honour ofvisiting me at Port Moresby, that is, will relieve me of some tomahawks. With a light wind and a smooth sea, we had a pleasant run to Boera, wherewe arrived at sunset. There was great joy in the village at our arrival. 

We reached Port Moresby on the 20th, and on March 6th we baptized Kohuand Rahela, the first two women of New Guinea converted to Christianity. May they be kept as true ministering women for Christ!

CHAPTER V. THE KALO MASSACRE. 

Twelve teachers and their friends killed at Kalo in 1881--The warning--Themassacre--The fear for the teachers at Koma--Mr. Chalmers's views on thequestion--Voyage westwards in the _Mayri_--A Sunday at Delena--Visit ofQueen Koloka--Threatened attack by Lolo natives--The fight--Peace--Miria'svillage--Bad character of the Motu natives--Visit to the chief of MotuLavao--Story of Dr. Thorngren's murder--Peace made with the village. 

On the 7th of March, 1881, the natives of Kalo, a village at the head ofHood Bay, near the mouth of the Kemp Welch River, massacred theirteacher, Anederea, with his wife and two children; also Materua, teacherof Kerepunu, his wife and two children; Taria, teacher of Hula; Matatuhi, an inland teacher; and two Hula boys--in all, twelve persons. 

The earliest news of the tragedy was given in the following letter fromthe Rev. T. Beswick, dated Thursday Island, Torres Straits, March 24th:--

 On Friday, the 4th inst. , Taria, our Hula teacher, left Port Moresby with Matatuhi, an inland teacher, the latter wishing to visit the Kalo teacher for some native medicine. Reaching Hula on the evening of the 4th, Taria heard a rumour that the Kalo people intended to kill their teacher and his family. Accordingly he went thither the following day, along with Matatuhi, and requested the Kalo teacher and his family to leave at once. The teacher refused to place credence in the rumour, and even questioned his chief and pretended friend, who assured him that there was not the slightest grain of truth in the rumour. 

 The Hula teacher returned, leaving Matatuhi behind. On Monday, the 7th, Taria, along with five Hula boys, proceeded in a boat to Kalo and Kerepunu, with the view of bringing the teachers and their families to Hula, on account of the ill-health of some of the party. He called at Kalo on the way thither, and apprised the teacher of his intention to call on the return journey. At Kerepunu he took on board the teacher, his wife and two children, and one native youth. The party then proceeded to Kalo. During the interval of waiting there, the chief and pretended friend of the Kalo teacher got into the boat for a chat. On the arrival of Matatuhi and the Kalo teacher, along with his wife and two children, the chief stepped out of the boat. This was the pre- arranged signal for attack to the crowds assembled on the bank. At the outset, the chief warned his followers not to injure the Hula and Kerepunu boys; but such precaution did not prevent two of the former being killed. The other four boys escaped by swimming the river. The mission party were so cooped up in the boat, and spears flew so thickly and fast, as to render resistance futile and escape impossible. Taria resisted for a time, but a fourth spear put an end to his resistance. The others were dispatched with little trouble. A single spear slew both mother and babe in the case of both women. The only bodies recovered were those of the Kerepunu teacher's wife and her babe; the natives of Hula and Kerepunu severally interred the two bodies. The rest of the bodies became a prey to the alligators. For the two Hula boys who were slain speedy compensation was made by the Kalo people. The whale-boat, too, was recovered by the Hula natives. 

[A Hula girl: 167. Jpg]

The above sad intelligence reached Port Moresby at early morn of the11th, just as the _Harriet_ was about to leave for Thursday Island, andthe _Mayri_ about to take me to Hula, whilst a party of foreigners wereleaving for the East End. The news, of course, upset all arrangements, and, after the first moments of excitement were over, our next concernwas about the safety of the two Aroma teachers. With as little delay aspossible, but with groundless forebodings of coming evil, a large partyof us left for Aroma. About ten a. M. Of the 14th, we reached there, andwhilst our three boats lay off a little, so as not to arouse suspicion, ateacher and myself went ashore. With devout gratitude I heard that bothteachers and natives were ignorant of the massacre. In less than an hourthe two teachers and their families were safely ensconced in their whale-boat, taking along with them but a minimum of their property, accordingto the orders given. By these means the chiefs and natives of Aroma wereleft in utter ignorance as to the cause of our erratic movements, nor didthey seem to suspect anything. 

At Kerepunu we experienced considerable noise and worry. Here, too, wejudged it prudent to remove very little belonging to the deceasedteacher. At Hula, my house had been entered, but the few things stolenwere mostly returned. Here, too, we have left goods, until some definitecourse be decided upon. Strange to say, at Hula, where we expected theleast trouble and danger, there we had the greatest; indeed, on one ortwo occasions, affairs assumed a rather serious aspect. The main ideapresent in the native mind was to take advantage of us in our weaknessand sorrow. After a very brief stay at Hula, we left there on the 15th, reaching Port Moresby the following day; and on the 17th I left forThursday Island. 

The natives of Hood Bay attribute this massacre to the influence ofKoapina, the Aroma chief, he having assured the Kalo people thatforeigners might be massacred with impunity, citing as an illustrationthe massacre at Aroma last July, and pointing out at the same time thegreat fame that had thereby accrued to his own people. The Kalo peoplehave not been slow in acting upon his advice. I visited Hula andKerepunu within six weeks of the massacre, and was so impressed with thepeaceful bearing of the people in both places that I should have beenglad to have re-occupied both stations immediately. 

I should have visited Kalo, but was afraid of compromising the mission, as it is possible the natives may be punished for the outrage. I fear weare not altogether free from blame; the teachers are often veryindiscreet in their dealings with the natives, and not over-careful inwhat they say; there has also, perhaps, sometimes been a niggard regardto expense on our part. A very few pounds spent at a station like Kaloin the first years would, I believe, prevent much trouble, and probablymurder. The Kalo natives felt that Hula and Kerepunu got the mosttobacco and tomahawks, and that their share was small indeed. Instead ofour buying all the thatch required for the other stations--onlyobtainable at Kalo--we got the teachers, with their boys, to get it. Wemeant it well, to save expense. My experience teaches me to throw all Ican in the way of natives not connected with our head station. At thisstation--Port Moresby--for the next few years the expenses will beconsiderable in buildings, laying out the land, and in presents to theconstant stream of visitors; but it will have a Christianizing and acivilizing effect upon a large extent of country. 

On the 24th of May, 1881, left Port Moresby in the _Mayri_, and, havingtaken on board four natives at Boera, continued a westerly course, anchoring next day in Hall Sound, opposite Delena. Early on the morningof May 26th, Kone and Lavao, our old friends, came off. They say it isuseless going to Maiva, as we cannot land; but we can go and see forourselves, and they will accompany us. I had to land to eat pigs, _i. E_. , receive pigs and hand them over to my followers. On landing, they led me up the hill at the back of village, where I was astonished tofind a fine tract of land forming a splendid position for a house. Koneat once offered me as much land as I wanted. After thinking it over onboard, I decided on building. I landed tents, and pitched them on therise above the village. My experience is that places quite exposed tosouth-east wind are _more_ unhealthy than swampy country. On Rarotongathere were more deaths on the windward side of the island than on theleeward. 

On the Sunday after landing, we went down and had service in the village. Kone interpreted into Lolo. When telling the people we had no work forthem on Sunday, Kone said: "Oh! we know, and we, too, are going to be_helaka_ (sacred) to-morrow. " I asked him, "Come, Kone, how do youknow?" "From Boera. " I met a lad repeating the Lord's Prayer in Motu, and found he had been taught by Piri. The Motu tribe has already hadgreat influence, and will have more and more every year. I have aninteresting class of children, and hope, before we leave, they will knowtheir letters well. 

What nonsense one could write of the reception here--such as "Everybodyat service this morning listened attentively; commented on address orconversation; children all come to school, so intelligent, and seeminglyanxious to learn; and, altogether, prospects are bright. " At home theywould say, why, they are being converted; see the speedy triumph! Alas!they are but savages, pure and simple, rejoicing in the prospect of anunlimited supply of tobacco, beads, and tomahawks. 

Paura, a chief from Motu Lavao, is in. The people, it seems, told him, being _helaka_ day, I could not meet him, and he did not come up hill. Heis rather a nice-looking fellow, with a mild, open countenance. Konetold him to tell the Paitana natives, who murdered James and Thorngren, that, if they wished peace and friendship, they must come in here and suefor it; that I could not first go to them, as they were the offenders andmurderers. 

Arrangements were at once made for erecting a wooden house at Delena, measuring thirty-six feet by eighteen feet, material for which was easilyprocurable. On the 30th of May, Queen Koloka, her husband, and a numberof men and women came in. The Prince Consort first came up, all oversmiles, followed in half an hour by his wife and maids. After formallyreceiving her, I presented Mrs. Lawes's present. I unloosed the parcel, and turned maid-of-honour in real waiting. Her Majesty was chewing betel-nut, but that did not prevent my putting the dress on; first attempt allwrong, the front became the back, and the back the front. At length Isucceeded, and, after fastening the dress, tied a pretty kerchief roundthe royal neck. There was great excitement, in every mouth a thumb, afew moments of silence, and then every soul spoke and shouted. It wasamusing to see her husband, uncles, maids, old men and women, young menand maidens, gather round the royal presence, wonder and admire, and thenshout, _Oh misi haine O_! (Mrs. Lawes). Ah, Koloka, I wonder how you aregoing to get out of that dress to-night; will you understand buttons, hooks, and eyes?

During my stay at Delena, one of those warlike incursions by hostiletribes so common in New Guinea took place. My presence and influencehappily brought about an early and satisfactory settlement of thedispute. I extract the following from my journal:--

_June_ 2_nd_. --Our friends seem troubled, and their house-buildingearnestness is somewhat abated. I find they have heard that the Lolotribe intend making a raid on them. Is it on them, or on us? Theirgreat hope is that we shall use our guns, and so frighten the invaders. Itell them that we cannot do this; that we are men of peace, and have nowish to frighten any one. It seems Maiva is very disturbed; they arefighting all round, avenging Oa's death, and may soon be expected here. Maiva would not interfere with us, but Lolo I would not trust. 

We shall have to keep a good look-out to-night. Our friends seem verytroubled and excited. I have given warning that any one coming near ourcamp must call out my name and his or her own. No one can come nearwithout our knowing, as my terrier Flora is a splendid watch-dog. Thisevening, some women passed camp, carrying their valuables to hide away inthe bush. Bob asks, "Suppose Lolo natives come to us, what we do?" "Ofcourse they will not come near to us unless they mean to attack, and thenwe must defend ourselves. " The guns are ready. It is not pleasant; butI fancy they will not molest us, so hope to sleep well, knowing we arewell cared for by Him who is never far off. Through much trouble we getto be known, and the purpose for which we come is understood. 

[A Hula dandy: 175. Jpg]

3_rd_. --Last night I slept lightly, with Flora on watch, and Bob easilyaroused. After midnight he kept watch. We placed the lights beyondtents on each side, and so arranged that the light would strike on anynative nearing camp. About two a. M. Lavao's wife No. 2 came up with hergrandchild, goods, and chattels for safety. The Loloans were coming. Allright; all ready. Very loud, noisy talking in village. At four, wecalled out for Kone, who came up telling us that we should be firstdisposed of, then Delena. I went to the village, and saw the oldfriendly chief from Lavao. I told him any Loloan coming over the brow ofthe hill with weapons we should consider as coming to fight, and we wereready. At five, women and children crowded into camp, with all theirbelongings, and asked for protection. Certainly; we shall do what we canfor them. Men are running all about, planting arms in convenient placesin the bush. We are told to keep a good look-out--and that we shall. Itis now daylight, so we do not care much. The fight has begun in thevillage. Some Loloans, running after Delena natives, rush uphill; wewarn them back, and they retire. There is a loud shout for us to go tothe village and fight. I leave Bob with guns and cartridges to keepwatch over camp. I have more confidence in the skirmish unarmed, andhave no wish for the savages to think I have come to fight. I shout out_Maino_, and soon there is a hush in the terrible storm. I am allowed towalk through the village, disarm one or two, and, on my return to ourfriend Kone's end of the village, he whispers to me, "There is Arua, "understanding him to mean the chief, or _vata tauna_ (sorcerer). Irecognize in him the man introduced to me on a former visit, and who inwrath cleared out from my presence. Now might be his time to pay me out. I take his weapons from him, link him on to me, and walk him up the hill. I speak kindly to him, show him flag, and tell him we are _maino_, andwarn him that his people must on no account ascend the hill. All right, he will stop the fighting. I sit down to write this, when again theyrush up for me, saying Kone was to be killed. Leaving Bob with arms incharge, I go down to the village, and without my hat. More canoes havearrived. What a crowd of painted fiends! I get surrounded, and have noway of escape. Sticks and spears rattle round. I get a knock on thehead, and a piece of stick falls on my hand. My old Lavao friend getshold of me and walks me to outskirt. Arua and Lauma of Lolo assure methey will not ascend the hill, and we had better not interfere with them. "Right, friend; but you must stop, and on no account injure my friendKone. " It would frighten them were we to go armed to the village; butthen we dare not stay here twenty-four hours after. I can do more forthe natives unarmed. I am glad I am able to mix with both parties; itshows they mean us no harm, and speaks well for the future. No one waskilled, but several were severely wounded, and a few houses destroyed. They have made peace at last, and I have had a meeting in the villagewith all; the Loloans have promised to be quiet. I told them we couldnot stay if they were to be constantly threatening. In the afternoon thechiefs came up, and I promised to visit them all. My head aches alittle. Had I been killed, I alone should have been to blame, and notthe natives. The Delena natives say: "Well, Tamate, had you not beenhere, many of us would have been killed, and the remainder gone to Naara, never to return. " There is some pleasure in being of a little use evento savages. 

The next Sunday we had a splendid service. All the young fellows dressedfor it by painting their faces. It was amusing and interesting to hearthem interpret all I said from Motuan into Loloan; and when I attemptedto use a Lolo word, they corrected me if I wrongly pronounced ormisplaced it. After service we had all the children and young men toschool. A goodly number have got a pretty fair hold of letters. Somewould beat native cloth, and Kone grew very angry, and, because theywould not listen to him, threatened to pull up his recently buried child. I sent word that he must on no account do that, and must say no more tothe men beating cloth; that by-and-by the people will become enlightened, and then they will understand the Sabbath. Poor Kone's idea is that nowand at once they should understand. 

On June 6th, I once more left Delena to proceed to Maiva, and, although aheavy sea was running at the time, landed safely about eleven a. M. AtMiria's village, on the Maiva coast. I saw a number of people with_karevas_ (long fighting sticks), and wondered what was the matter. Isaid to my old friend Rua, who met me on the beach, "Are you going tofight?" "No, no; it is all right now. " I gave him a large axe forMeauri and party to cut wood for a house at their village. Meauri and anumber of followers soon made their appearance: it seemed strange thatthey should have come down so soon. Miria, the chief, being away cuttingwood, went to Meauri's village, passing through several seaside villages. We selected a new position for the house, at the back of a large temple;gave them tobacco and red cloth, they promising gladly to have wood cutagainst my next return. Sitting on the platform, Rua turned to me andasked, "Tamate, who is your real Maiva friend?" Fancying there wastrouble, I replied, "Oa Maoni, who sleeps in that house in death, was myfriend: Meauri, Rua, Paru, and Aua are now my friends. " "I thought so, and Miria has no business to build a house for you. Before we saw theboat we were down on the beach at Miria's village to begin a quarrel; wesaw you were coming, and we waited for you. " "But I want a house on thecoast as well as inland; Miria's village is small and too exposed, and Imust look for another place. " "That is all right; but this first. " "Beit so. " After visiting three villages I had not seen before, and goingthrough all the inland ones, I returned to Miria's village; he not havingreturned, I went along to Ereere. After dark, Miria came in. He feltsorry when I told him I could not put a house up in his place, owing toits being exposed to south-east wind, and to there not being many people. "But I have cut the wood. " "I shall pay you for that, and the wood canremain for my return. " I gave him tobacco for the young men and apresent to himself, and all was right. 

A few mornings later, I found the natives sitting round rice; one said, "Come, we are waiting for you to bless the food. " They have seen ourboats' crews of Botu and Boera natives always asking a blessing. I saidto them, "Cannot one of you ask a blessing?"

"No; wait until we learn, and you will see. " A good story is told by thecaptain of the _Mayri_. Oa their going to Aroma to relieve the teachersafter the Kalo massacre, in the early morning they were pulling along thereef, and just as the sun appeared over the mountains, one of the Motucrew called on all to be quiet, rowers to lean on their oars, and thenengaged in prayer, thanking God for watching over them during the night, and praying that He would care for them during the day, and that nounpleasantness might occur with the Aroma natives. All along this coast, and right away down to Elema as far as Bald Head, the Motu tribe has awonderful influence, and in a few years excellent pioneers may be hadfrom it. They must have been a terrible lot in the past. I have heardmuch from themselves of piracy, murder, and robbery, and all along herethey tell terrible tales. A Motu chief in one of our meetings, speakingof the past and the present, concluded by saying: "Since the arrival ofthe foreigners (teachers), we have changed and will continue to change. "

An old chief, Aiio, from the Mekeo district, came in to see me, andbrought me as a present a splendid head-dress, which is hung up by Konein front of the tent for all to see. On giving him a present of salt, itwas pleasant to see the old fellow's expression of pleasure. He isanxious I should go inland as soon as possible; I tell him I must waitfor tomahawks. 

At seven o'clock on the morning of the 13th of June, I started to visitMadu, the chief of the Motu Lavao. We went up from the bight, a largesaltwater creek, with dense mangrove on both banks, --a veritable bed offever, --and anchoring our boats, we walked through the deserted villageof Paitana and on for about a mile and a half to Motu Lavao. The pathleads along a narrow tract of good country, with dense swamps on bothsides. The village is large, with good houses kept nice and clean; but Ican conceive of no more unhealthy locality--swamp all around. A numberof people were down with fever, some in their houses, others lyingexposed to the sun. I asked them if they had no _vatavata_ (spirits)knocking around in their district, and did they not much trouble them. "Oh, trouble us much, very much. " I told them I thought so, and thesooner they removed from that place the better--that they were right inthe centre of sickness and death. They said, "And what is to become ofthe place of our forefathers, and the cocoanuts they planted?" "Betterleave them, or in a short time there will be none left to remember theirforefathers, or eat their cocoanuts. " Madu was in the country, and wewaited his return. He tried hard to get me to stay over-night, but itwas of no use. He presented me with a pig and feathers, and we concludedfriendship by my giving a return present. An old woman was presented tome, a great sorceress; but, not liking the sisterhood, I did not see myway clear to give her a present. Such as she keep the natives inconstant fear, do what they like, and get what they like. It is affirmedby all that the great Lolo sorcerer, Arua, keeps snakes in bamboos, anduses them for his nefarious purposes. Late in the afternoon we left, accompanied by Madu and a number of youths carrying pig, cocoanuts, andsugar-cane. When leaving, the chief said, "Go, Tamate; we are friends. "

On June 14th, I had a long conference with the old Paitana chief, Boutu, and his followers. They looked very much excited and alarmed when I metthem, but that wore away during our conversation. Boutu, his party, andother Lolo natives assured me that the attack on Dr. James and Mr. Thorngren was unknown to all but those in the canoe. The excuse was thatthe day before they were trading on Yule Island one young man hadfeathers for sale. Dr. James and Waunaea told him to leave; they wouldnot take his feathers because he objected to the pearl shell produced. This, they say, was the beginning. He tried very hard to sell hisfeathers, and, if possible, get a tomahawk. Failing, he went home, quietly arranged a party, slept in the bush, and before daylight went offto the vessel. On nearing the vessel, Dr. James called out--"You mustnot come alongside: you are coming to kill me. " They said, "We are notgoing to kill you, but want to sell yams. " The yams were taken on board, and whilst Dr. James was counting the beads to pay for them he was struckwith a club, and afterwards speared, but not quite disabled, as he drewhis revolver and shot the man who attacked him. Mr. Thorngren was struckat from aft, fell overboard, and was never again seen. They say, whenthe people in the village heard of it, they were very sorry, and thatever since they have been looked upon with anger, as they have been thecause of keeping the white man away with his tobacco, beads, andtomahawks. I asked them, "What now?" "Let us make friends, and neveragain have the like. " "But your young men could do the same againwithout your knowing. " "They know better than try it again; they are toomuch afraid; and they see that what was then done has greatly injured usas well as all the other villages. " I explained to them the object ofour coming here, and that they must not think we are to buy everythingthey bring, and must not be angry when we refuse to give what theydemand. We do not come to steal their food or curios, and, if we do notwant them, they can carry all back; we are not traders. After prayingwith them, they said, "Tamate, now let it be friendship; give up yourintention of going to Mekeo (inland district), and come to-morrow, and weshall make friends and peace. " "I shall go; but suppose the mother ofthe young man who was shot begins wailing, what then?" "She willdoubtless wail, but you need not fear; come, and you will see. " "Then to-morrow I shall go. "

Next morning, the _Mayri_ having arrived the evening before, I carriedinto effect the intended visit. The chief of Paitana and two followers, with my friend Lauma, of Lolo, waited to accompany me. After breakfastwe got into the boat, Lavao in charge. We entered the same creek as forMotu Lavao, and when up it some distance turned up another to the right, too narrow to use oars. When two miles up we anchored boat, then walkedor waded for two miles through swamp and long grass. When near thevillage we heard loud wailing, and Lavao, who was leading, thought itbetter we should wait for the old chief, who was some distance behind. Oncoming up they spoke in Lolo, then threw down his club, calling on one ofhis followers to pick it up. He went in front, and called on me tofollow close to him, the others coming after; and so we marched into thevillage and up on to his platform. Then began speechifying, presentingcooked food, betel-nuts, pig, and feathers. When all was finished I gavemy present, and said a few words in the Motu dialect. The uncle of theman shot by Dr. James came on to the platform, caught me by the arm andshouted, _Maino_! (peace), saying that they, the chiefs, knew nothing ofthe attack. The murderers lived at the other end of the village; andthither, accompanied by a large party, I went. They gave me a pig, and Igave them a return present. The real murderer of Mr. Thorngren sat nearme, dressed for the occasion, and four others who were in the canoe stoodnear the platform. The mother and two widows were in the house opposite, but with good sense refrained from wailing. I spoke to them of themeanness and treachery of attacking as they attacked Dr. James and Mr. Thorngren. They say there were ten in the canoe--one was shot, threehave since died, and six remain. They also say they feel they have donewrong, as they not only made the foreigners their enemies, but also allthe tribes around were angry with them. "What now, then?" "Oh, _maino_(peace) it must be; we are friends, and so are all foreigners now. " "Iam not a trader, but have come to teach about the only one true God andHis love to us all in the gift of His Son Jesus Christ, to proclaim peacebetween man and man, and tribe and tribe. " What seemed to astonish themmost was my being alone and unarmed. After some time, our old friendcame from the other end of the village and hurried us away. It was timeto leave them, so, giving a few parting presents, we picked up our goodsand away to the boat. 

CHAPTER V. EAST CAPE IN 1878 AND IN 1882

Original state of the natives--War and cannibalism--How the mission workhas been carried on--A Sunday at East Cape in 1882--Twenty-one convertsbaptized--A blight prospect. 

In 1878, missionary work was begun at East Capes, and four years afterthe establishment of that mission, on a review of the past, whatevidences of progress were to be seen! There were signs of lightbreaking in upon the long dark night of heathenism. Looking at thecondition of this people when the missionaries and teachers first landed, what did they find? A people sunk in crime that to them has become acustom and religion--a people in whom murder is the finest art, and whofrom their earliest years study it. Disease, sickness, and death haveall to be accounted for. They know nothing of malaria, filth, orcontagion. Hence they hold that an enemy causes these things, andfriends have to see that due punishment is made. The large night fireflyhelps to point in the direction of that enemy, or the spirits of departedones are called in through spiritists' influence to come and assist, andthe medium pronouncing a neighbouring tribe guilty, the time is near whenthat tribe will be visited and cruel deeds done. They know nothing of aGod of Love--only gods and spirits who are ever revengeful, and must beappeased; who fly about in the night and disturb the peace of homes. Itis gross darkness and cruelty, brother's hand raised against brother's. Great is the chief who claims many skulls; and the youth, who may wear ajawbone as an armlet is to be admired. 

When we first landed here, the natives lived only to fight, and thevictory was celebrated by a cannibal feast. It is painfully significantto find that the only field in which New Guinea natives have shown muchskill and ingenuity is in the manufacture of weapons. One of these isknown as a Man-catcher, and was invented by the natives of Hood Bay, butall over the vast island this loop of rattan cane is the constantcompanion of head-hunters. The peculiarity of the weapon is the deadlyspike inserted in the handle. 

The _modus operandi_ is as follows:--The loop is thrown over the unhappywretch who is in retreat, and a vigorous pull from the brawny arm of thevengeful captor jerks the victim upon the spike, which (if the weapon bedeftly handled) penetrates the body at the base of the brain, or, iflower down, in the spine, in either case inflicting a death-wound. 

All these things are changed, or in process of change. For several yearsthere have been no cannibal ovens, no desire for skulls. Tribes thatcould not formerly meet but to fight, now meet as friends, and sit sideby side in the same house worshipping the true God. Men and women who, on the arrival of the mission, sought the missionaries' lives, are onlyanxious now to do what they can to assist them, even to the washing oftheir feet. How the change came about is simply by the use of the samemeans as those acted upon in many islands of the Pacific. The firstmissionaries landed not only to preach the Gospel of Divine love, butalso to live it, and to show to the savage a more excellent way thantheirs. Learning the language, mixing freely with them, showingkindnesses, receiving the same, travelling with them, differing fromthem, making friends, assisting them in their trading, and in every waymaking them feel that their good only was sought. They thought at firstthat we were compelled to leave our own land because of hunger!

Teachers were placed amongst the people; many sickened and died. Therewas a time of great trial, but how changed is everything now! Four yearspass on, and, in 1882, we visit them. We left Port Moresby, and arrivedat East Cape on a Sunday. Morning service was finished, and, from thevessel, we saw a number of natives well dressed, standing near themission house, waiting to receive us. The teachers came off, and withthem several lads, neatly dressed. After hearing from them of the work, and of how the people were observing the Sabbath, we landed, and were metby a quiet, orderly company of men, women, and boys, who welcomed us asreal friends. The first to shake hands with us was a chief from theopposite side of the bay, who in early days gave us much trouble, and hadto be well watched. Now he was dressed, and his appearance much altered. It was now possible to meet him and feel he was a friend. We found PiVaine very ill, and not likely to live long; yet she lived long enough torejoice in the glorious success of the Gospel of Christ, and to see manyof those for whom she laboured profess Christianity. We were astonished, when we met in the afternoon, at the orderly service--the nice well-tunedsinging of hymns, translated by the teacher, and the attention, when heread a chapter in Mark's Gospel--translated by him from the Rarotonganinto the dialect of the place. When he preached to them, all listenedattentively, and seemed to be anxious not to forget a single word. Twonatives prayed with great earnestness and solemnity. After service allremained, and were catechised on the sermon, and then several presentstood up and exhorted their friends to receive the Gospel. Manystrangers were present, and they were exhorted to come as often aspossible and hear the good news. Then, again, others offered prayers. Wefound that numbers came in on the Saturday with food and cooking-pots, and remained until Monday morning. They lived with the teachers, andattended all the services, beginning with a prayer-meeting on Saturdaynight. 

During our stay of a few days, they all remained at the station, and wesaw much of them. The teachers said there were twenty-one who professedfaith in Christ and had given up heathenism and desired baptism. Wevisited further on to the east, and we were a week away on our return toEast Cape, and after close examination of each candidate we decided tobaptize them on the following Tuesday. The service was most interesting, and well attended by persons from various places. At night we examinedthe children and grown-up people who attend school, and were much pleasedwith them. A few can read in the Motu dialect; others know how to putletters together and form words. We hope soon to have one or two booksin their own dialect. Of those baptized several are anxious to beinstructed, that they may be better fitted to do work for Christ amongsttheir own countrymen. Already they hold services, and exhort in othervillages, and when travelling they do all the good they can to others. 

We are in hopes soon to receive a number of young men and women at PortMoresby, and begin our Institution, to be called "The New GuineaInstitution for Training Evangelists. " At present we shall proceedquickly, building native houses for students, and a class room to bebought in the colonies, towards which our true friends in North Adelaidecontribute largely. 

The harvest ripens fast: where shall we look for labourers? The Masterhas said, "Pray. " May they soon be sent! The light is shining, thedarkness is breaking, and the thick clouds are moving, and the hiddenones are being gathered in. We have already plucked the first flowers;stern winter yields, and soon we shall have the full spring, the singingof birds, and the trees in full blossom. Hasten it, O Lord, we plead!

LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET ANDCHARING CROSS.