THE FASCINATION OF LONDON

 HAMMERSMITHFULHAM AND PUTNEY

_IN THIS SERIES. _

Cloth, price 1s. 6d. Net; leather, price 2s. Net each. 

THE STRAND DISTRICT. 

By SIR WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. 

WESTMINSTER. 

By SIR WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. 

HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE. 

By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. 

CHELSEA. 

By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. 

KENSINGTON. 

By G. E. MITTON. Edited by SIR WALTER BESANT. 

HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY. 

By SIR WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. 

HAMMERSMITH, FULHAM, AND PUTNEY. 

By G. E. MITTON and J. C. GEIKIE. 

MAYFAIR, BELGRAVIA, AND PIMLICO. 

_In the press. _

[Illustration: FULHAM PALACE. ]

The Fascination of London

HAMMERSMITH, FULHAMAND PUTNEY

BYG. E. MITTONANDJ. C. GEIKIE

EDITED BYSIR WALTER BESANT

LONDONADAM & CHARLES BLACK1903

PREFATORY NOTE

A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that shouldpreserve her history, her historical and literary associations, hermighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all thatLondoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from thepast--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when hedied. 

As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anythingelse I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attemptedbefore. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and Ifind something fresh in it every day. "

Sir Walter's idea was that two of the volumes of his survey shouldcontain a regular and systematic perambulation of London by differentpersons, so that the history of each parish should be complete initself. This was a very original feature in the great scheme, and one inwhich he took the keenest interest. Enough has been done of thissection to warrant its issue in the form originally intended, but in themeantime it is proposed to select some of the most interesting of thedistricts and publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike tothe local inhabitant and the student of London, because much of theinterest and the history of London lie in these street associations. 

The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great, for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undyingcharm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history withthe present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, herhistory is written for those who can read it, and the object of theseries is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain. The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man wholoved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him, and it was because of these associations that it did so. These linksbetween past and present in themselves largely constitute TheFascination of London. 

G. E. M. 

HAMMERSMITH

The parish of Hammersmith is mentioned in Doomsday Book under the nameof Hermoderwode, and in ancient deeds of the Exchequer as Hermoderworth. It is called Hamersmith in the Court Rolls of the beginning of HenryVII. 's reign. This is evidently more correct than the present spellingof the name, which is undoubtedly derived from _Ham_, meaning in Saxon atown or dwelling, and _Hythe_ or _Hyde_, a haven or harbour, "therefore, " says Faulkner, "Ham-hythe, a town with a harbour or creek. "

Hammersmith is bounded on the south by Fulham and the river, on the westby Chiswick and Acton, and on the east by Kensington. Until 1834 it wasincorporated with the parish of Fulham, and on Ascension Day of thatyear the first ceremony of "beating the bounds" took place. The WestLondon Railway runs in the bed of an ancient stream which rose north ofWormwood Scrubs and ended at Chelsea Creek, and this brook was crossedby a bridge at the place where the railway-bridge now stands on theHammersmith Road. The stream was evidently the determining factor in theold parish boundary line between Kensington and Hammersmith, butHammersmith borough includes this, ending at Norland and St. Ann'sRoads. On the south side it marches with Fulham--that is to say, westward along the Hammersmith Road as far as St. Paul's School, whereit dips southward to include the school, and thence to the river. Fromhere it proceeds midway in the river to a point almost opposite the endof Chiswick Ait, then northward up British Grove as far as RavenscourtGardens; almost due north to within a few yards of the Stamford BrookRoad; it follows the trend of that road to the North and South WesternJunction Railway. It crosses the railway three times before goingnorthward until it is on a level with Jeddo Road. It then turnseastward, cuts across the north of Jeddo Road to Wilton Road West. Northward it runs to the Uxbridge Road, follows this eastward for a fewyards, and strikes again northward up Old Oak Road and Old Oak CommonRoad until it reaches Wormwood Scrubs public and military ground. Itthen trends north-eastward, curves back to meet the Midland andSouth-Western Line as it crosses the canal, and follows Old Oak CommonRoad until on a level with Willesden Junction Station, from thenceeastward to the Harrow Road. It follows the Harrow Road until it meetsthe western Kensington boundary running between the Roman Catholic andProtestant cemeteries at Kensal Town. It goes through Brewster Gardensand Latimer Road until it meets the line first indicated. 

HISTORY. 

With Fulham, Hammersmith shared in the incursion of the Danes in 879, and it is especially mentioned in the Chronicle of Roger de Hoveden thatthey wintered in the island of Hame, which Faulkner thinks is the ait orisland near Chiswick, which, he says, must have considerably decreasedin size during the nine centuries that have elapsed. In 1647 Cromwellremoved his quarters from Isleworth to Hammersmith, and "when he was atSir Nicholas Crispe's house, the headquarters were near the church. " Thegeneral officers were quartered at Butterwick, now Bradmore House, thenthe property of the Earl of Mulgrave. 

PERAMBULATION. --The first thing noticeable after crossing the boundaryfrom Kensington is St. Paul's School. It stands on the south side of theroad, an imposing mass of fiery red brick in an ornamental style. Thepresent building was erected in 1884 by Alfred Waterhouse, and a statueto the memory of Dean Colet, the founder, standing within the groundswas unveiled in 1902. It was designed by W. Hamo Thornycroft, R. A. Thefrontage of the building measures 350 feet, and the grounds, includingthe site, cover six acres. Dr. John Colet, D. D. , Dean of St. Paul's, founded his school in 1509 in St. Paul's Churchyard, but it is not knownhow far he incorporated with it the then existing choir-school. Thenumber of his pupils was 153, in accordance with the number of fishes inthe miraculous draught, and the foundation scholars are limited to thesame number at the present day. The old school stood on the east side ofSt. Paul's Churchyard, and suffered so much in the Great Fire that ithad to be completely rebuilt. When, in the nineteenth century, the sitehad become very valuable, the school was removed to Hammersmith, and itsoriginal site is now covered by business premises. Dean Colet endowedthe foundation by leaving to it lands that were estimated by Stow to beworth £120 annually, and that are now valued at over £20, 000. The schoolis governed under a scheme framed by the Charity Commissioners in 1900, and part of the income is diverted to maintain the new girls' school inBrook Green. 

Lily, the grammarian, was the first headmaster, and the roll of thepupils includes many great names--the antiquaries Leland, Camden, andStrype; John Milton, prince of poets; Halley, the astronomer; SamuelPepys; Sir Philip Francis, supposed author of the "Letters of Junius";the famous Duke of Marlborough; among Bishops, Cumberland, Fisher, Ollivant and Lee; among statesmen, Charles, Duke of Manchester, SpencerCompton (Earl of Wilmington), Prime Minister; and Lord Chancellor Truro;also Sir Frederick Pollock, Lord Hannen, Sir Frederick Halliday, andBenjamin Jowett. 

The preparatory school, called Colet Court, stands opposite on thenorthern side of the road. It was founded in 1881, and owns two and ahalf acres of land. On the same side Kensington Co-operative Storescovers the site of White Cottage, for some time the residence of CharlesKeene. 

Next to the Red Cow public-house lived Dr. Burney, D. D. , LL. D. , learnedfather of a celebrated daughter, who became afterwards Madame D'Arblay. He kept a school here for seven years from 1786. There are other oldhouses in the vicinity, but to none of them is there attached anyspecial interest. The Convent of the Poor Sisters of Nazareth is in alarge brick building on the south side of the road. This was built in1857 for the convent purposes. It is the mother-house of the Nazarethnuns, so that the numbers continually vary, many passing through fortheir noviciate. The nuns collect alms for the aged poor and children, and many of the poor are thus sustained. Besides this, there are anumber of imbecile or paralytic children who live permanently in theconvent. The charity is not confined to Roman Catholics. 

The Latymer Foundation School is a plain brick building standing alittle back from the highroad. It bears the Latymer arms, and a cross instone over the doorway, as well as the date of the foundation. TheLatymer charity was established in 1824 by the will of Edward Latymer. He left several pieces of land in the hands of trustees, who were toapply the rents to the following uses:

 "To elect and choose eight poor boys inhabiting Hammersmith within the age of twelve and above the age of seven, and provide for every boy a doublet and a pair of breeches of frieze or leather, one shirt, one pair of stockings, and a pair of shoes on the 1st of November; and also to provide yearly, against Ascension Day, a doublet and a pair of breeches of coarse canvas lined, and deliver the same unto the said boys, and also a shirt, one pair of stockings, and a pair of shoes; and that on the left sleeve of every poor boy's doublet a cross of red cloth or baize should be fastened and worn; and that the feofees should cause the boys to be put to some petty school to learn to read English till they attain thirteen, and to instruct them in some part of God's true religion. The allowance of clothing to cease at thirteen. And that the feofees shall also elect six poor aged men of honest conversation inhabiting Hammersmith, and provide for every one of them coats or cassocks of frieze or cloth, and deliver the same upon the 1st of November in every year, a cross of red cloth or baize to be fastened on the left sleeve; and that yearly, on Ascension Day, the feofees should pay to each man ten shillings in money. "

To this charity were added various sums from benefactors from time totime, and the number of recipients was increased gradually, until in1855 there were 100 boys and 45 almsmen. At that date the men's clothingconsisted of a body coat, breeches, waistcoat, hat, pair of boots, stockings, and shirt one year, and the next, great-coat, breeches, pairof boots, stockings, shirt, and hat. The boys received coat, waistcoat, and trousers, cap, pair of stockings, shirt, pair of bands, pair ofboots. Also on November 1, cap, pair of stockings, shirt, pair of bands, and pair of boots. At present part of the money is given in alms, andthe rest is devoted to the Lower Latymer School and the Upper LatymerSchool, built 1894, situated in King Street West. 

At the back of the Latymer Foundation, in Great Church Lane, is theFemale Philanthropic Society. The object is for the reformation of youngwomen convicted for a first offence or addicted to petty pilfering. 

Opposite is a recreation-ground and St. Paul's parochial room, a smalltemporary iron building. In King's Mews, Great Church Lane, Cipriani, the historical painter and engraver, lived at one time. He died here in1785. The entrance to Bradmore House, the oldest house in Hammersmith, is in the lane. The grounds stretch out a long way eastward, and one ortwo old cedars are still growing here. The eastern portion of the househas a fine front with fluted pilasters, with Ionic capitals running upto a stone parapet surmounted by urns. The windows are circular-headed, and those over the central doorway belong to a great room, 30 feet by20, and 20 in height. The house, though much altered, is in its originpart of a very old building named Butterwick House, built by Edmund, third Baron Sheffield and Earl of Mulgrave, about the latter end ofQueen Elizabeth's reign. The name was taken from a village inLincolnshire where the Sheffield family had long lived. This Earl ofMulgrave was grandfather of John, Duke of Buckingham. He died in 1646, and is buried in the church. The estate probably passed from theSheffield family soon after his death, for in 1653 the manor-house orfarm of Butterwick, called the Great House, "passed to Margaret Clapham, wife of Christopher Clapham and widow of Robert Moyle, and her sonWalter Moyle after her. " In 1677 it was conveyed by Walter Moyle for theuse of Anne Cleeve and her heirs. She aliened it to Mr. Ferne in 1700. The house was greatly modernized by Mr. Ferne, Receiver-General of theCustoms, who added some rooms to the north-east, "much admired, " saysLysons, "for their architectural beauty. "

He intended this part of the house for Mrs. Oldfield, the actress, butshe never inhabited it. One of Mr. Ferne's daughters married a Mr. Turner, who in 1736 sold the house to Elijah Impey, father of Sir ElijahImpey, Chief Justice of Bengal. He divided the modern part built by Mr. Ferne from the older building, and called it Bradmore House, and underthis name it was used as a school for more than a century. It was againdivided into two parts, and the western portion, which fronts thechurch, is of dark brick with red-brick facings, which glow through theoverhanging creepers. 

The older part was sold by the Impey family in 1821, and fifteen yearslater was pulled down. Some small houses, which still stand on the southside, with irregular tiled roofs and walls covered with heavy green ivy, were built on the site. St. Paul's Church, the foundation-stone of whichwas laid July, 1882, by the late Duke of Albany, is opposite. The squarepinnacled tower rises to a considerable height. The original structurewas much more ancient. Bowack says: "The limits of this chapel wasdivided from Fulham before the year 1622, as appears in a benefaction tothe poor of Fulham. "

The chapel of ease to the parish of Fulham was founded in 1628, andopened in 1631. The whole cost was about £2, 000, of which Sir NicholasCrispe gave £700. This church was the last consecrated by ArchbishopLaud. The old monumental tablets have been carefully preserved, and hangon the walls of the present building. The most important object in thechurch is a bronze bust of Charles I. On a pedestal 8 or 9 feet high, ofblack and white marble. Beneath the bust is the inscription:

"This effigies was erected by special appointment of Sir NicholasCrispe, knight and Baronet, as a grateful commemoration of that gloriousMartyr Kinge Charles I. Of blessed Memory. "

Below, on a pedestal of black marble, is an urn containing the heart ofthe loyal subject, and on the pedestal beneath is written:

"Within this Urne is entombed the heart of Sir Nicholas Crispe, knightand Baronet, a Loyall sharer in yhe sufferings of his Late and PresentMajesty. Hee first setled the Trade of Gould from Guyny, and there builtthe Castle of Cormantine. Died 25 Feb. 1665 aged 67 years. "

Sir Nicholas Crispe's name is closely identified with Hammersmith. Hewas born in 1598, the son of a London merchant, and, though inheriting aconsiderable fortune, he was bred up to business. He was subsequentlyknighted by King Charles I. , and made one of the farmers of the King'sCustoms. During the whole of the Civil War he never faltered from hisallegiance, but raised money and carried supplies to the Kingconstantly. He had built Brandenburg House (p. 39), on which he is saidto have spent £23, 000. This was confiscated by Cromwell and used by histroops during the rebellion, but at the Restoration Sir Nicholas wasreinstated and rewarded by a baronetcy. His body was not buried atHammersmith, but in the church of St. Mildred in Bread Street with hisancestors. There is a portrait of him given in Lysons' "Environs ofLondon. " He is "said to have been the inventor of the art of makingbricks as now practised" (Lysons). He left £100 for the poor ofHammersmith, to be distributed as his trustees and executors shouldthink fit. This amount, being expended in land and buildings, hasenormously increased in value, and at the present day brings in a yearlyincome of £52 15s. 5d. , which is spent on blankets for the poorinhabitants of the parish. The only other monuments worthy of notice inthe church are those of Edmund, Lord Sheffield, Earl of Mulgrave andBaron of Butterwick, who died 1646; one of the Impey monuments, whichhangs over the north door, which contains no less than nine names, andanother on the wall close by, to the memory of Sir Elijah Impey and hiswife, who are both buried in the family vault beneath the church. Theseare plain white marble slabs surmounted by coats of arms. 

There is a monument to W. Tierney Clarke, C. E. , F. R. S. , who designed thesuspension-bridge at Hammersmith and executed many other greatengineering designs; also a monument to Sophia Charlotte, widow of LordRobert Fitzgerald, son of James, Duke of Leinster. 

These are all on the north wall, and are very much alike. 

On the south aisle hangs a plain, unpretentious little slab of marble tothe memory of Thomas Worlidge, artist and engraver, who died 1766. HisLondon house was in Great Queen Street, and in it he had been precededby Kneller and Reynolds, but in his last years he spent much time at his"country house" at Hammersmith. Not far off is the name of ArthurMurphy, barrister and dramatic writer, died 1805. Above the south dooris a monument of Sir Edward Nevill, Justice of the Common Pleas, died1705. In the baptistery at the west end stands a beautiful font cut froma block of white veined marble. In the churchyard rows of the oldtombstones, which were displaced when the new church was built, standagainst the walls of the adjacent school. Adjoining the churchyard onthe south there once stood Lucy House, for many generations the home ofthe Lucys, descendants of the justice who prosecuted Shakespeare fordeer-stealing. 

In the churchyard stand the schools, formerly the Latymer and CharitySchools, now merely St. Paul's National Schools. The school wasoriginally built in 1756 at the joint expense of the feofees of Mr. Latymer and trustees of the Female Charity School, and was restored andadded to in 1814. The Charity School was founded in 1712 by ThomasGouge, who left £50 for the purpose, which has since been increased byother benefactions. 

On the south side of the church are two picturesque old cottages, whichwould seem to be contemporary with the old church itself. Near the northend of the Fulham Palace Road, which here branches off from QueenStreet, is the Roman Catholic Convent of the Good Shepherd. The wallsenclose nine acres of ground, part of which forms a good-sized garden atthe back. The nucleus of the nunnery was a private house calledBeauchamp House. The convent is a refuge for penitents, of whom some 230are received. These girls contribute to their own support by laundry andneedle work. 

Chancellor Road is so called through having been made through thegrounds of an old house of that name. In St. James Street there is asmall mission church, called St. Mark's, attended by the clergy of St. Paul's. In Queen Street, which runs from the church down to the river, there are one or two red-tiled houses, but toward the river end it issqualid and miserable. Bowack says that in his time (1705) two rows ofbuildings ran from the chapel riverwards, and another along the riverwestward to Chiswick. One of the first two is undoubtedly Queen Street. The last is the Lower Mall, in which there are several old houses, including the Vicarage, but there is no special history attached to anyof them. In 1684 a celebrated engineer, Sir Samuel Morland, came to livein the Lower Mall. Evelyn records a visit to him as follows:

 "_25th October, 1695. _

 "The Abp and myselfe went to Hammersmith, to visite Sir Sam Morland, who was entirely blind, a very mortifying sight. He showed us his invention of writing, which was very ingenious; also his wooden Kalendar, which instructed him all by feeling, and other pretty and useful inventions of mills, pumps, etc. "

Sir Samuel was the inventor of the speaking-trumpet, and also greatlyimproved the capstan and other instruments. He owed his baronetcy toKing Charles II. , and was one of the gentlemen of the Privy Chamber andMaster of Mechanics. He died in 1696, and was buried at Hammersmith. There are here also large lead-mills. Behind the Lower Mall is a narrowpassage, called Ashen Place; here is a row of neat brick cottages, erected in 1868. These were founded in 1865, and are known as WilliamSmith's Almshouses. Besides the building, an endowment of £8, 000 inConsols was left by the founder. There are ten inmates, who may be ofeither sex, and who receive 7s. A week each. 

Waterloo Street was formerly Plough and Harrow Lane. Faulkner mentions aWesleyan Methodist Chapel here, built in 1809, which probably gave itsname to Chapel Street hard by. 

Near the west end of the Lower Mall is the Friends' Meeting House, asmall brick building which, though new, inherits an old tradition; forthere is said to have been a meeting-house here from the beginning ofthe seventeenth century, and one of the meetings was disturbed andbroken up by Cromwell's soldiers. At the back is a small burial-ground, in which the earliest stone bears date 1795. 

The Lower is divided from the Upper Mall by a muddy creek. This creekcan now be traced inland only so far as King Street, but old maps showit to have risen at West Acton. An old wooden bridge, erected by BishopSherlock in 1751, crosses it; this is made entirely of oak, and wasrepaired in 1837 by Bishop Blomfield. Near the creek the houses are poorand mean, inhabited by river-men, etc. , and the place is called LittleWapping. There is a little passage between creek and river, and in itis a low door marked "The Seasons. " It was here that Thompson wrote hisgreat poem, in a room overlooking the water, in the upper part of theDoves public-house, which was then a coffee-tavern. The poem was solittle appreciated by the booksellers, who then combined the functionsof publishers with their own trade, that it was with difficulty hepersuaded one of them to give him three guineas for it. 

Opposite is Sussex Lodge, once the residence of the Duke of Sussex, whocame to the riverside for change of air. It was afterwards inhabited byCaptain Marryat, the novelist. Sir Godfrey Kneller lived for a time inthe Upper Mall; and Bowack tells us that "Queen Katherine, whenQueen-Dowager, kept her palace in the summer time" by the river. Thiswas Catherine of Braganza, consort of Charles II. She came here afterhis death, and remained until 1692. She took great interest ingardening, and the elms by the riverside are supposed to have been ofher planting. Her banqueting-hall survived until within the last thirtyyears. It was a building with handsome recesses on the front filled byfigures cast in lead. In the reign of Queen Anne the celebratedphysician Dr. Radcliffe lived in the same house. He had the project offounding a hospital, and began to build, but never carried his intentioninto effect. He bequeathed the greater part of his property and hislibrary to the University of Oxford, and was the founder of the famousRadcliffe Library there. Bishop Lloyd of Norwich was a near neighbour atHammersmith. He died in the Upper Mall in 1710, and left many valuablebooks to St. John's College, Cambridge. 

In Kelmscott House, No. 26, lived William Morris, R. A. , whose influenceon the artistic development of printing and in many other directions iswell known. On a small outer building of the house is a tablet statingthat in this house Sir Francis Ronald, F. R. S. , made the first electrictelegraph, eight miles long, in 1816. Turner, R. A. , lived in the UpperMall, 1808-14, after which he moved to Sandycombe Lodge, Twickenham. After Riverscourt Road there is a hoarding, behind which was QueenCatherine of Braganza's mansion already referred to. Mickephor Alphery, a member of the Russian Imperial Family, took Holy Orders in England in1618, and lived at Hammersmith. Weltje Street was named after afavourite cook of George IV. 's, who had a house on its site. He isburied in the churchyard. Linden House is old, but has no history. Beavor Lodge, which gives its name to Beavor Lane, was formerly owned bySir Thomas Beavor. In it now lives Sir W. B. Richmond, K. C. B. , R. A. OldShip Lane takes its name from a picturesque old tavern, the Old Ship, the doorway of which is still standing. Hammersmith Terrace runs fromBlack Lion Lane to Chiswick Hall. In it are many old houses remaining. In No. 13 lived P. J. De Loutherbourgh, an artist and member of theRoyal Academy. He died here in 1812. Arthur Murphy, whose monument inthe church has been mentioned, lived at No. 17. He wrote lives ofFielding, Johnson, and Garrick, besides numerous essays and plays, andwas well known to his own contemporaries. Mrs. Mountain, the celebratedsinger, also had a house in the terrace. 

The fisheries of Hammersmith were formerly much celebrated. They wereleased in the seventeenth century to Sir Nicholas Crispe, Sir AbrahamDawes, and others for the value of three salmon annually. Flounders, smelt, salmon, barbel, eels, roach, dace, lamprey, were caught in theriver, but even in 1839 fish were growing very scarce. Faulkner, writingat that period, says it was ten years since a salmon had been caught. 

In Black Lion Lane is St. Peter's Church, built in 1829. It is of brick, and has a high lantern tower and massive portico, supported by pillars. Close by are the girls' and infant schools, built 1849-52. From thispoint to the western boundary of the parish there is nothing further ofinterest. 

In King Street West, after No. 229, there is a Methodist Chapel, with anornamental porch. A few doors westward are the new or Upper LatymerSchools, with the arms of the founder over the doorway. The buildingsare in red brick, with stone facings. 

Returning to the north side of the Hammersmith Road, which has for sometime been overlooked, we find the King's Theatre, stone-fronted and new, bearing date 1902. Near it is the West London Hospital, instituted May, 1856, and opened in July of the same year. Since that time it has beengreatly enlarged, and an immense new wing overlooking Wolverton Gardenshas been added. The hospital was incorporated by royal charter, November1, 1894. It is entirely supported by voluntary contributions. 

Near the Broadway is the Convent of the Sacred Heart, standing on groundwhich has long been consecrated to religious uses, for a nunnery is saidto have existed here before the Reformation. In 1669 a Roman Catholicschool for girls was founded here, and in 1797 the Benedictine nuns, driven out of France, took refuge in it. The present buildings wereerected in 1876 for a seminary, and it was not until 1893 that the nunsof the Sacred Heart re-established a convent within the walls. Thepresent community employ themselves in teaching, and superintend schoolsof three grades. 

There stood in the Broadway until within recent years a charming oldbuilding called The Cottage--one of those picturesque but obstructivedetails in which our ancestors delighted. Behind the CongregationalChapel there is an old hall, used as a lecture-hall, which wasoriginally a chapel, and which is said by Faulkner to be the oldestplace of worship in Hammersmith. It was built by the Presbyterians. Thefirst authentic mention of its minister is in 1700, when the Rev. SamuelEvans "collected on the brief for Torrington at a meeting of ProtestantDissenters held at the White Hart, Hammersmith, 13s. 6d. "

In the Brook Green Road Nos. 41 to 45 contain an orphanage called St. Mary's Catholic Orphanage for Girls. On Brook Green itself one or twoold cottages with tiled roofs are still to be seen--reminiscences of oldHammersmith. The long strip of grass, in shape like a curving tongue, justifies the name of "Green. " Dr. Iles' almshouses, known as the BrookGreen Almshouses, have long been established here, though the presentbuildings date only from 1839. They stand at the corner of Rowan Road, and are rather ornately built in brick with diamond-paned windows. Thecharity was founded in 1635 by Dr. Iles, who left "houses, almshouses, and land on Brook Green, and moiety of a house in London. " The oldalmshouses were pulled down in 1839. At the north end of Brook Green, next door to the Jolly Gardeners public-house, stood Eagle House, avery fine old mansion, only demolished within the last twenty years. Bute House stands on the site. Eagle House was built in the style ofQueen Anne's reign, and had a fine gateway with two stone pierssurmounted by eagles. The back of the house was of wood, and the frontof brick, and there was a massy old oak staircase. Like many other oldhouses, it became for a time a school. 

Sion House is a square stuccoed building, plain and without decorationeither interior or exterior. This was used as a nunnery until aboutthree years ago, and the wall decorations in the room used by the nunsas a chapel are still quite fresh. This room is ugly and meagre, andwithout attractiveness. It has a fine garden at the back, stretching outparallel to that of its neighbour, and the two together embrace an areaof close upon four acres, which will make a fine playground for theprojected school. These gardens are at present neglected tangles ofevergreen creepers and trees, but with a little care might be admirablylaid out. On Brook Green is now established St. Paul's School for girls, a companion to the large school for boys already described. This islikely to be a very popular institution. 

Near the corner of Caithness Road is the Hammersmith and West KensingtonSynagogue, opened on September 7, 1890, which forms one of the thirteensynagogues in London that constitute together the United Synagogue, ofwhich Lord Rothschild is the President. The building was designed by Mr. Delissa Joseph, F. R. I. B. A. The leading features of the design are agabled façade with sham minarets, and a recessed porch with overhangingbalcony. The façade is flanked by square towers containing thestaircases. 

At the south end of the Green there is quite a Roman Catholic colony. The Almshouses stand on the west side, facing the road, behind aquadrangle of green grass. They were founded in 1824, and containaccommodation for thirty inmates of either sex. Five of the houses areendowed, and the pensioners pass on in rotation from the unendowed tothe endowed rooms. They must be Roman Catholics and exceed the age ofsixty years before they are received. On the north side of thequadrangle is the Roman Catholic parish church, a fine building in theGothic style, with a high spire and moulded entrance doorway, built in1851. 

Immediately opposite, across the road, is St. Mary's Training Collegefor elementary school masters. These young men must have passed theKing's Scholarship examination and be over the age of eighteen beforethey enter on the two years' course of study. The large building near onthe north side is the practising-school, where the students learn theart of teaching practically. There is a pretty little chapel in thecollege, and the walls enclose three acres of land, including site. 

St. Joseph's School for pauper children is adjacent to thepractising-school, on the north side. This building is certified for 180children, who are received from the workhouse, etc. They enter at theage of three years, and leave at sixteen for situations. It was foundedand is managed by the Daughters of the Cross, and was established in itspresent quarters September 19, 1892. Faulkner says of Brook Green, "Hereis a Roman Catholic Chapel and School called the Arke, " so that thispart of Hammersmith has long been connected with the Catholics. 

In the Blythe Road, No. 79, is a fine old house with an imposingportico, which now overlooks a dingy yard. This is Blythe House, "reported to have been haunted, and many strange stories were reportedof ghosts and apparitions having been seen here; but it turned out atlast that a gang of smugglers had taken up their residence in it. " Itwas once used as a school, and later on as a reformatory. It is now inthe possession of the Swan Laundry Company. 

In Blythe Road there is a small mission church called Christ Church. InShepherd's Bush Road, at the corner of Netherwood Road, is WestKensington Park Chapel of the Wesleyan Methodists. Shepherd's Bush andmany of the adjoining roads are thickly lined with bushy youngplane-trees. St. Simon's Church, in Minford Gardens, is an uglyred-brick building with ornamental facings of red brick, and a highsteeple of the same materials. It was built in 1879. St. Matthew's, inSinclair Road, is very similar, but has a bell-gable instead of asteeple. The foundation-stone was laid 1870. In Ceylon Road there is aBoard school. Facing Addison Road Station is the well-known place ofentertainment called Olympia, with walls of red brick and stone and asemicircular glass roof. It contains the largest covered arena inLondon. 

Returning once more to the Broadway, we traverse King Street, which isthe High Street of Hammersmith. It is very narrow, and, further, blockedby costers' barrows, so that on Saturday nights it is hard work to getthrough it at all. The pressure is increased by the electric trams, which run on a single set of rails to the Broadway. In King Street isthe Hammersmith Theatre of Varieties, the West End Lecture-Hall, and theWest End Chapel, held by the Baptists. It stands on the site of an olderchapel, which was first used for services of the Church of England, andwas acquired by the Baptists in 1793. The old tombstones standing roundthe present building are memorials of the former burial-ground. At thewest end of King Street is an entrance to Ravenscourt Park, acquired bythe L. C. C. In 1888-90. The grounds cover between thirty and forty acres, and are well laid out in flower-beds, etc. , at the southern end. TheRavenscourt Park Railway-station is on the east side, and the archedrailway-bridge crosses the southern end of the park. A beautiful avenueof fine old elms leads to the Public Library, which is at the north endin what was once the old manor-house. 

All this part of Hammersmith was formerly included in the Manor ofPallenswick or Paddingswick. Faulkner says this manor is situated "atPallengswick or Turnham Green, and extends to the western road. " Thefirst record of it is at the end of Edward III. 's reign, when it wasgranted to Alice Perrers or Pierce, who was one of the King'sfavourites. She afterwards married Lord Windsor, a Baron, and Lieutenantof Ireland. Report has also declared that King Edward used themanor-house as a hunting-seat, and his arms, richly carved in wood, stood in a large upper room until a few years before 1813. But the houseitself cannot have been very ancient then, for Lysons says it had onlyrecently been rebuilt at the date he wrote--namely, 1795. The influenceof Alice Perrers over the King was resented by his courtiers, whoprocured her banishment when he died in 1378. After her marriage, however, King Richard II. Granted the manor to her husband. 

There is a gap in the records of the manor subsequently until John Paynedied, leaving it to his son William in 1572. This was the "William Payneof Pallenswick, Esq. , " who placed a monument in Fulham Church to thememory of himself and his wife before his own death, and who left anisland called Makenshawe "to the use of the poor of this parish on theHammersmith side. " This bequest is otherwise described as being part ofan island or twig-ait called Mattingshawe, situated in the parish ofRichmond in the county of Surrey. At the time the bequest was left therent-charge on the island amounted to £3 yearly, which was to bedistributed among twelve poor men and women the first year, and to beused for apprenticing a poor boy the second year, alternately. SirRichard Gurney, Lord Mayor of London, bought the manor in 1631. It wasseveral times sold and resold, and in Faulkner's time belonged to oneGeorge Scott. It had only then recently begun to be known asRavenscourt. The house was granted to the commissioners of the publiclibrary by the London County Council at a nominal rent, and the librarywas opened by Sir John Lubbock, March 19, 1890. In a case at the head ofthe stairs are a series of the Kelmscott Press books, presented by SirWilliam Morris. Round the walls of the rooms hang many interesting oldprints, illustrative of ancient houses in Hammersmith and Fulham. Thereis also a valuable collection of cuttings, prints, and bills relating tothe local history of the parish. In the entrance hall are hung prints ofRocque's and other maps of Hammersmith, and the original document signedby the enrolled band of volunteers in 1803. Among the treasures of thelibrary may be mentioned the minute-book of the volunteers, a copy ofBowack's "Middlesex, " and an original edition of Rocque's maps of Londonand environs. 

Just outside the park, on the east side, is the Church of HolyInnocents, opposite St. Peter's Schools. It is a high brick building, opened September 25, 1890. There is a Primitive Methodist chapel withschool attached in Dalling Road near by. In Glenthorne Road is theChurch of St. John the Evangelist, founded in 1858, and designed by Mr. Butterfield. A magnificent organ was built in it by one of theparishioners in memory of her late husband. 

Behind the church are the Godolphin Schools, founded in the sixteenthcentury by the will of W. Godolphin, and rebuilt in 1861. In SouthertonRoad there is a small Welsh chapel. The Goldhawk Road is an old Romanroad, a fact which was conclusively proved by the discovery of the oldRoman causeway accidentally dug up by workmen in 1834. 

Shepherd's Bush Green is a triangular piece of grass an acre or two inextent. There seems to be no recognised derivation of the curious name. At Shepherd's Bush, in 1657, one Miles Syndercomb hired a house for thepurpose of assassinating Oliver Cromwell as he passed along the highroadto the town. The plot failed, and Syndercomb was hanged, drawn, andquartered in consequence. The precise spot on which the attempt tookplace is impossible to identify. It was somewhere near "the corner ofGolders Lane, " says Faulkner, but the lane has long since beenobliterated. 

St. Stephen's Church, in the Uxbridge Road, was the earliest church inthis part of Hammersmith. It was built and endowed by Bishop Blomfieldin 1850. Its tower and spire, rising to the height of 150 feet, can beseen for some distance. 

St. Thomas's, in the Godolphin Road, is rather a pretty church of brickwith red-tiled roof, and some ornamental stonework on the south face. Itwas built in 1882, designed by Sir A. Blomfield, and thefoundation-stone was laid by the Baroness Burdett-Coutts. The chancelwas added in 1887. 

In Leysfield Road stands St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church, of which thefoundation-stone was laid by the present Duke of Argyll, March 30, 1870. 

In the extreme west of the Goldhawk Road is St. Mary's Church, in brightred brick, erected 1886. The Duchess of Teck laid the foundation-stone. This has brought us to the end of the houses. Behind St. Mary's liewaste land and market-gardens. Just outside the parish boundary are twoold houses of brick in the style of the seventeenth century; they usedto be known as Stamford Brook Manor House, but they have no authentichistory. Starch Green Road branches off from the Goldhawk Road oppositeRavenscourt Park; this road, running up into the Askew Road, wasformerly known by the still more extraordinary name of Gaggle GooseGreen. 

In Cobbold Road, to the north of the waste land is St. Saviour's. Aniron church was first erected here in 1884, and the present red-brickbuilding was consecrated March 4, 1889. The chancel was only added in1894. 

In Becklow Road are a neat row of almshouses with gabled roofs. Theseare the Waste Land Almshouses. In the words of the charity report, ordered to be printed by the Vestry of Hammersmith in 1890, "Thisfoundation owes its origin to a resolution which was entered into by thecopyholders of the Manor on Fulham on the 23rd April, 1810, that nogrants of waste land belonging to the manor should in future be appliedto the purpose of raising a fund and endowing almshouses. "

Part of the money received from the Waste Lands Fund thus created hasbeen appropriated to the Fulham side, and part to the Hammersmith side. The Hammersmith almshouses were at first built at Starch Green. In 1868these houses were pulled down and new ones erected. The presentalmshouses were erected in 1886 for twelve inmates. 

In the Uxbridge Road, opposite Becklow Road, is St. Luke's Church, ared-brick building with no spire or tower, erected in 1872. The ironchurch which it succeeded, stands still behind it, and is used for achoir-room and vestry. 

A short way westward, in the Uxbridge Road, is Oaklands CongregationalChurch, a somewhat heavy building covered with stucco, with a largeportico supported by Corinthian columns. 

Behind the houses bordering the north of the Uxbridge Road is a wideexpanse of waste land with one or two farms. This part of the Manor ofFulham was leased in 1549 by Bishop Bonner to Edward, Duke of Somerset, under the name of the Manor of Wormholt Barns. Through the attainder ofthe Duke the Crown eventually obtained possession of it. It passedthrough various hands, and was split up at last into two parts, Wormholt and Eynham lands; these two names are still preserved inWormholt and Eynham Farms. In 1812 the Government took a lease of thenorthern part of the land for twenty-one years at an annual rent of£100, which was subsequently renewed. On part of this land was built theprison of Wormwood Scrubs in 1874. Part is used as a rifle-range, and tothe north is a large public and military ground for exercising troops, etc. To the east of the prison are the Chandos and the North Kensingtoncricket and football ground. 

The Prison walls enclose an area of sixteen acres. The building was alldone by convict labour. To the south, without the walls, lie the housesof the officials, warders, etc. On the great towers by the gateway aremedallions of John Howard and Elizabeth Fry. Within the courtyard areworkshops, etc. , and immediately opposite the gateway is a fine chapelwith circular windows built of Portland stone. Four great "halls"stretch out northward, at right angles to the gates. These measure 387feet in length, are four stories in height, and each providesaccommodation for 360 prisoners. The three western ones are for men, that on the east for women. On the male side one "hall" is reserved forconvicts doing their months of solitary confinement before passing onelsewhere. The men are employed as masons, carpenters, etc. , the womenin laundry and needle-work. The exercise-grounds are large and airy;the situation is very healthy. 

The next district, traversed by the Latymer Road, is a squalid, miserable quarter of the borough, with poor houses on either side. InClifton Street is St. Gabriel's, the mission church of St. James's, alittle brick building erected in 1883 by the parishioners and others. 

Further northward, beyond the railway-bridge, is Holy Trinity Church. The foundation-stone was laid on Ascension Day, 1887, by the Duchess ofAlbany. It is a red-brick building with a fine east window decoratedwith stone tracery. Beyond this there is nothing further of interestexcept St. Mary's Roman Catholic cemetery at Kensal Green. It comprisesthirty acres, and was opened in May, 1858. There are many notable namesamong those buried here, namely: Cardinals Wiseman and Manning; ClarksonStanfield, R. A. ; Dr. Rock, who was Curator of Ecclesiastical Antiquitiesin the South Kensington Museum; Adelaide A. Proctor, Panizzi, PrinceLucien Bonaparte, and others. To the west of the cemetery lies a networkof interlacing railways, to the north a few streets, in one of whichthere is an iron church. 

We have now made practical acquaintance with this vast borough, stretching from the river to Kensal Green, and including within itslimits an exceptional number of churches and chapels of alldenominations. There are numerous convents, almshouses, and schools. Hammersmith has always been noted for its charities, and no bequest toits poor has ever been made without being doubled and trebled bysubsequent gratuities. On a general survey, the three most interestingplaces within the boundaries seem to be: St. Paul's School, flourishingin Hammersmith, but not indigenous; Ravenscourt Park, with its aroma ofold history, and the sternly practical institution of Wormwood ScrubsPrison. Hammersmith can boast not a few great names among its residents, by no means least that of the loyal Sir Nicholas Crispe; but withKneller, Radcliffe, Worlidge, Morland, Thompson, Turner, and Morris, ithas a goodly list. 

[Illustration: HAMMERSMITH DISTRICT. 

Published by A. & C. Black, London. ]

FULHAM

The earliest authority for the derivation of the name of Fulham isCamden, in his "Britannia, " who is quoted by all succeeding writers. Norden says: "Fulham, of the Saxons called Fullon-ham, which (as MasterCamden taketh it) signifieth Volucrum Domus, the Habitacle of Birds orthe Place of Fowls. Fullon and Furglas in the Saxon toong signifiethFowles, and Ham or Hame as much as Home in our Toong. So that Fullonhamor Fuglahame is as much as to say the Home House or Habitacle of Fowle. Ham also in many places signifieth Amnis a River. But it is mostprobable it should be of Land Fowle which usually haunt Groves andClusters of Trees whereof in this Place it seemeth to have been plenty. "

Bowack also quotes Camden, adding: "In all Probability a Place where allsorts of Water Fowls were bred and preserved for the Diversion of ourSaxon Monarchs. "

Lysons, commenting on this derivation, adds in a note: "The Saxon word_ful_ is translated foul: _fuhl_, a fowl: _full_ and _fullan_ are full, as _full mona_, the full moon. " This latter meaning has been chosen bythe authors of the Anglo-Saxon dictionaries, notably Somner, Lye, andBosworth. 

Fulham is bounded by Chelsea and Kensington on the east, by the river onthe west and south, and by Hammersmith on the north. The easternboundary follows generally the railway-line between Addison Road Stationand the river, and the northern one is identical with the southern oneof Hammersmith already given. The earliest record we have of Fulham isin 691, when a grant of the manor was made by Tyrtilus, Bishop ofHereford, to Erkenwald, Bishop of London, and his successors. In 879 abody of Danes made Fulham their winter quarters, and amused themselvesby constructing the moat around the palace. Norden tells us that HenryIII. Often "lay" at the palace, and on two occasions Bishop Bancroftreceived visits here from Queen Elizabeth. James I. Also came herebefore his coronation. In 1627 Charles I. Dined with Bishop Montaigne. In 1642 the Parliamentary army encamped at Fulham, 24, 000 strong, underEssex. 

If we enter the borough of Fulham at the Hammersmith end, we come uponone of the most interesting associations of the whole district, justbefore the North End Road makes a decided bend. Here are two houses, formerly one, called the Grange, in which the novelist Samuel Richardsonpassed the greater part of his life. This pompous, vain little man, whonever to the end of his life abated one whit of his savage envy of hissuccessful contemporaries, was endowed with the genius of originalitywhich prompted him to write as no one had ever thought of writingbefore. He remained here until 1755, when he moved to Parsons Green. Hehad begun life as one of the nine children of a man of small means, andwas apprenticed to a printer. This work he carried on long after thenecessity for it had ceased, for he was above all things punctual, methodical, neat, and entirely the opposite in character to that usuallyascribed to genius. To a man of his type it seems almost sinful to giveup routine work in order to depend on the work of imagination. He had ahouse at Salisbury Court near his business premises, and the Grange atNorth End was his country residence. Here he composed "Sir CharlesGrandison" and "Clarissa, " writing for the most part in a grotto in thegarden, where the admiring circle of women who adored him, and whoseeffusive flattery he ever received with pleasure, paid court to him. Hewas twice married, and while at North End was living with his secondwife and their four daughters. Thus he was surrounded by womenkind, whoforgave him all faults on account of his appreciation ofsentimentality. 

The house is distinctly picturesque. The southern half is of red brick, and is surrounded by a high wall, in which is a gateway with tallred-brick piers surmounted by stone balls. Over the wall hangs anacacia-tree, and on the front of the house is an old sundial--altogethera house one could well associate with an imaginative novelist. It wasthe residence of the late Sir Edward Burne-Jones, Bart. The other partof the house has been painted a light stone colour. Even as early as1813 the Grange had been divided into two houses. 

St. Mary's Church, facing the Hammersmith Road, is in Fulham. It wasbuilt by a Mr. Richard Hunt, to whose memory there is a tablet on thewall, and was opened as a chapel of ease in 1814. Some fine carving onthe north side of the chancel and the oak panelling of the gallery werebrought from Lady Mary Coke's old mansion at Chiswick. 

In 1860 the site of Edith Road was, according to Crofton Croker, to belet on building lease. In it, Croker says, "once stood the house ofCipriani. " But there is some doubt as to the exact site of Cipriani'shouse, which is also claimed for Great Church Lane, Hammersmith (see p. 7). Cipriani lived in England from 1755 to 1785, and his works werelargely engraved by Bartolozzi, who also had a house at North End. 

Further south, to the east of Queen's Club grounds, are a maze of newstreets, in one of which, Castletown Road, is a large and fineCongregational chapel and hall. The chapel has a square tower rising toa considerable height, and the roof is supported by flying buttresses. This is an offshoot of the Allen Street Congregational Chapel, whosetrustees still have the control and help to support it financially. Thefoundation-stone was the last laid by the late Earl of Shaftesbury, November 22, 1882. 

The well-known Earl's Court Exhibition has an entrance in the North EndRoad. It occupies the area between this on the one side, and EardleyCrescent and Philbeach Gardens on the other, and is the largestexhibition open in London. It belongs partly to Kensington and partly toFulham, for the boundary line is close to the railway. 

St. Andrew's Church, at the corner of Greyhound and Vereker Roads, wasbuilt in 1873. It has a spire, and differs little from the acceptedmodel. 

The entrance to Queen's Club grounds is in the Comeragh Road. On theright of the gate is a grand-stand, from which a fine view of the elevenor twelve acres of ground can be obtained. Along the west side run theprincipal buildings, including secretary's offices, grand-stands, tennis and fives courts, etc. The covered lawn-tennis courts are laidwith great care and expense, the floors being of American maple, screwedand fitted over a patent wooden floor to insure absolute accuracy. Theladies' lawn-tennis championship is played off here. The great publicevent of the year is the Oxford and Cambridge sports, which in interestrank after the boat-race and cricket-match. 

Close to Queen's Club is the Hammersmith cemetery, an extensive piece ofground of some twenty acres. There is a broad gravel walk down thecentre, and two small chapels, round which the graves are thicklyclustered, spreading gradually westward as space is required. The firstburial took place in 1869. The principal entrance is in the MargravineRoad. The significance of this unexpected name in such a position isexplained by the fact that the Margravine of Brandenburg-Anspach had ahouse near the river in this part for many years. It is described indetail below. 

Just across the road is the Fulham and Hammersmith Union Workhouse andInfirmary, facing Fulham Palace Road. Between the workhouse and theriver is a stretch of land used by market-gardeners. It was by theriverside that Brandenburg House, built by Sir Nicholas Crispe in thebeginning of Charles I. 's reign, was situated. General Fairfaxquartered himself here in 1647 during the Civil War, and his troopsafterwards plundered the house; but at the close of the war Sir Nicholasreturned and restored his property to its former state. After his deathin 1666 it descended to his nephew, who sold it seventeen years later toPrince Rupert, who gave it to Margaret Hughes. It passed through thepossession of various owners. One of these, George Dodington, afterwardsLord Melcombe, repaired and modernized it, altering the name to LaTrappe. In 1792 it became the property of the Margrave ofBrandenburg-Anspach and Bayreuth, and at his death the Margravine, formerly Lady Craven, continued to live there. Faulkner gives a minuteaccount of the house and a long inventory of all the pictures in itwhile it was the residence of this lady. She built a theatre near thewaterside, and herself took part in the performances. Bills of the playsin which her name appears are still extant. One of them is preserved inthe Hammersmith Free Library. Though Brandenburg House was situated inFulham, it is often described and spoken of as in Hammersmith. This isperhaps owing to its connection with Sir Nicholas Crispe, who was agreat benefactor to the latter parish, and perhaps because the houseexisted when Hammersmith and Fulham were still one parish. Lysons saysthat during the interregnum it was proposed to make the hamlet ofHammersmith parochial, and add to it Sir Nicholas Crispe's house and apart of North End, but, as stated, the separation of the parishes didnot take place until 1834. 

On May 3, 1820, Queen Caroline, wife of George IV. , came to live atBrandenburg House, and on the fifteenth of that month was presented witha congratulatory address by the inhabitants of Hammersmith. On theabandonment of the Bill of "Pains and Penalties" by the House of Lordsshe received a second address. She had been petitioned by people of allclasses and conditions during the progress of the Bill, thedemonstration of the watermen and lightermen of the Thames on October 8having been especially noticeable. The Queen had stood on the balcony ofher residence and bowed her acknowledgments to the enthusiastic crowd. The Queen died in 1821, and the King caused the house to be destroyedshortly afterwards, it is said, in jealousy of her popularity. 

In a villa near Brandenburg House lived Mrs. Billington, the famoussinger, who died at Venice in 1818. At her death Sir John Sibbald, aCivil Servant of the East India Company, and at one time Ambassador tothe Court of Hyder Ali Khan, bought the house. It was tenanted later bythe novelist Captain Marryat, R. N. Southward there is a large extent ofground devoted to market-gardens, for which Fulham has long been famous. This is broken only by a few houses about Crabtree Alley and CrabtreeLane. Close to the latter is St. Clement's Church, of yellow brick, consecrated in 1886. The reredos painting is in the early Florentinestyle, and represents the Resurrection. There are several stained-glasswindows and a handsome wrought-iron chancel-screen. The font and itscover were originally at St. Matthew's, Friday Street. Opposite to thechurch is a public recreation-ground, and south of it the Fulhamcemetery, not so large, but more thickly planted with shrubs than thatof Hammersmith, already noted. 

St. James's Diocesan Home for Penitents is on the river side of theFulham Palace Road. It was originally established in 1856, though it wasnot then in Hammersmith. Funds failed, and the institution would havecome to an untimely end but for the intervention of the then Bishop ofLondon, who made the Home diocesan; the present building was erected in1871. The total number of inmates at present is 76. These are employedat laundry and needle work, etc. The penitents are divided into threeclasses, and are employed according to their position. Very nearlyopposite to the Home are the Fulham Waste Land and Lygon Almshouses. Thebuildings form two sides of a square, the sides being respectively formarried and single pensioners. The latter may be of either sex. Themarried couples have two rooms and a small scullery, and receive 8s. Aweek. The single persons have one room, with 5s. Per week. The housesare neatly built of brick with slate roofs and high chimneys. In thecentre there is a room used as a chapel. There are altogether fourteeninmates. On a stone let into the wall nearest the road is theinscription: "The Fulham Waste Land and Lygon Almshouses, founded 1833and rebuilt 1886. This stone was laid by Frederick, Lord Bishop ofLondon, April 21, 1886. "

The origin of the double name was in this wise: The vestry of the parishof Fulham and Hammersmith in 1810 had a fund of money derived from theenclosure of certain waste lands belonging to the parish. By 1833 thisfund had so much increased that it was resolved to build almshousess, which were accordingly erected on a piece of land in the Dawes Road. Inthe beginning of the eighties Lady Lygon bought a piece of land in theFulham Palace Road for the purpose of founding almshouses on it. Thisproject was never carried out, and the ground was eventually given tothe Waste Land Trustees, who built the present almshouses on it in 1886. 

The part of Fulham to the east of the Fulham Palace Road is verydreary; long, dull streets, lined by small houses and varied by smallchapels and big Board schools, constitute an area at the best highlyrespectable, and at the worst squalid. It is useless to enumerate allthe churches and chapels that have sprung up here, particularly as thereare none of any architectural or historical interest. They have beenbuilt from time to time to meet the rapid increase of population in agrowing district that will doubtless soon spread over the market-gardensthat now reach the river. The principal churches are St. Augustine's, inLillie Road, of red brick with freestone dressings; and St. Peter's, inReporton Road, which contains a pulpit that might make more ancientchurches proud, for it is of carved oak, and is supposed to be the workof Grinling Gibbons. It came from St. Matthew's, Friday Street. TheChurch of St. Thomas of Canterbury in Rylston Road is Roman Catholic, and was designed by Pugin, who also designed the altars and reredos ofthe minor chapels in it. 

Lillie Road is so named after Sir John Lillie, who was a director of theEast India Company and lived at Fulham. To Normand House in Normand Roadthere is some interest attached. The name is supposed to be a corruptionof "No-man. " Bowack alludes to it thus: "There is also a handsomeancient seat in Fulham Field called No-Man's-Land House, now belongingto ---- Wild, Esq. The piece of ground which it stands on was known asNo-Man's-Land. " The date 1664 is worked into the iron scroll-work of agateway. The house has been considerably added to from time to time, butthe wide, low passage with its pretty archways and panelling, which isseen on entrance, is distinctly one of the oldest parts. Two staircases, one of which is carved with the Tudor roses, are very picturesque. Manyof the rooms are panelled. Crofton Croker gives the date incorrectly as1661. He adds: "It is said to have been used as a hospital for personsrecovering from the Great Plague in 1665. " Sir E. Bulwer Lytton residedhere at one time. Later on it was used as a lunatic asylum, and was sowhen Thorne wrote his "Environs" in 1876. It is now the Community of theSisters of St. Katherine for the work of assisting and rescuing youngwomen convicted of a first offence or discharged for dishonesty withoutconviction, but otherwise of good moral character. The girls areemployed in house and laundry work, which is taken in from outside, andthe proceeds go to the funds. After two years' training they are placedin service. This institution has a branch at Hammersmith, and a smallone at Walham. It belongs to the Church of England. In Lillie Road, tothe east of North End Road, is the Mount Carmel Hermitage. This conventis a red-brick building with a small chapel attached, erected in 1880 bysome French Sisters who had come to London in 1865, and settled atFulham in 1867 in a house near the site of the present convent. Thereare eleven nuns, of whom three are lay Sisters. They are devoted to thecontemplative life. Just opposite is a large brewery, established 1867. At the east end of Eustace Road is a small brick Wesleyan chapel, hiddenaway in a corner, which deserves a word of mention, as it is a Germanchapel and the services are in that language. 

The Fulham Congregational Church in Dawes Road is a large building ofred brick with stone facings, opened on April 5, 1887. There is alecture-room beneath, besides library, class-rooms, and infantSunday-school. 

We have now arrived at Walham Green, once a small village standing inthe fields. It has been variously spelt. In a map of 1686 by Lea it is"Wollam, " and in 1706 "Wallam"; in a 1720 map (Seale) it is "Wallom, "and in Rocque of 1754 "Wallam" again. Before 1686 it was Wandon andWansdon, according to Crofton Croker, and Lysons derives it from Wendon, either because the traveller had to wend his way through it to Fulham, or because the drainage from higher grounds "wandered" through it to theriver. The Church of St. John is situated at Walham Green. It has ahigh square tower with corner pinnacles, and is partly covered with ivy. It is built of stone, and the total cost was about £9, 680. It wasconsecrated on August 14, 1828, and restored in 1892-93. The schools inconnection with it, built in 1894, stand in the Dawes Road opposite. Passing eastward on the Fulham Road, we come to the Walham Green Stationof the District Railway. Just opposite is the Town Hall, a squarebuilding of brick with stone frontage, ornamentally decorated withcarving. It was built in 1891. Further on, on the opposite side, is theWesleyan Chapel at Walham Green, opened in April, 1892. The buildingsare of brick, with stone dressings. In the Moore Park Road, whichbranches off the Fulham Road near the boundary, stands St. James'sChurch, an ugly brick building with no spire or tower, which wasconsecrated on June 28, 1867, and the apse was built out at the east endabout a dozen years later. There is a row of stained-glass windows lowdown across the west end. Going back to Walham Green proper, we find adouble row of almshouses, shut off from the Vanston Place Road by irongates. These are the almshouses of the Butchers' Charitable Institution, which was founded on October 16, 1828. The almshouses themselves werebegun at Walham Green in 1840. The object is described in the report as"for affording relief to decayed or distressed master butchers, masterpork-butchers, cattle and meat commission salesmen, their widows andorphans. "

In Fulham Road, westward, John Rocque lived. His maps of London andenvirons are still used by all topographers, and are full of accuratedetail. In the map published in 1741-45 his name is printed across theroad at this spot. On the south side of the road formerly stoodRavensworth House, pulled down in 1877. The site of it is now occupiedby the Swan Brewery. The grounds of Ravensworth House stretched out asfar as the present railway, where there was a large pond. When Thornewrote his "Environs" in 1876, the house was still standing, and hedescribes it as of "but moderate proportions, but more capacious than itlooks. " The Queen and Prince Consort were entertained here by LordRavensworth in 1840. Faulkner refers to Ravensworth House as "Mr. Ord'shouse and garden, " and mentions the Glastonbury thorn which flowered onChristmas Day, and the moss-rose which, being "laid" year after year, atlength covered a space in diameter 47 feet. The Swan Brewery, owned byMessrs. Stansfeld, was founded on the same site in 1765. It passedthrough several hands, and eventually, in 1880, Messrs. Stansfeldacquired possession and proceeded to erect new premises. BolingbrokeHouse was a little further on. Tradition says it was the residence ofLord Bolingbroke, who was visited here by Pope. It was eventuallydivided into two houses--Dungannon House and Albany Lodge--and thesewere demolished only in 1893. Dungannon House was also known as AcaciaCottage, and in it lived the first publisher of Cowper's works--a Mr. Joseph Johnson--until 1809. 

We are now at Purser's Cross, and after a digression southward shallpresently return. East End House, pulled down in 1885, stood at thecorner where Delvino Road now joins the Green. It was the residence forsome time of Mrs. Fitzherbert, morganatic wife of George, Prince ofWales, afterwards George IV. It was built by Sir Francis Child, LordMayor of London in 1699, and was a plain white house. Admiral SirCharles Wager and Dr. Ekins, Dean of Carlisle, lived here at differenttimes. The gardens stretched over much of the land now built upon at theback, and contained a magnificent cedar-tree, which had to be blown upby dynamite when the house was pulled down. Sir Thomas Bodley, founderof the Bodleian Library at Oxford, lived at Parson's Green from 1605 to1609 (Lysons). 

At the back of a network of small streets to the east lies EelbrookCommon. In Faulkner's map, 1813, it is marked Hell-brook, though in theprinted matter he uses both titles. It has been suggested that thetitle may have originally been Hill-brook, as there was a curious risein the ground just to the west; but, on the other hand, eels may havebeen common in the pond above referred to. Faulkner gives a noticerelative to it embodied in an order relating to Wormholt Wood, presentedat a court held for the Manor of Fulham on May 9, 1603, which runs asfollows: "That no person or persons shall put in any horse or othercattle into Hell-brook until the last day of April every yearhenceforth: nor shall not at any time after the 11th of May put in nortake out any of their said cattles, any other way but the old andaccustomed way upon pain to forfeit to the lord for every such offence£01. 00. 00. " In 1656 Colonel Edmund Harvey, who had bought the manorconfiscated under the Commonwealth, agreed to pay fifty shillings yearlyto the poor for taking in the common called Hell-brook. Through part ofthe land included in Eelbrook Common runs the District Railway betweenWalham Green and Parsons Green stations. 

We now return to the junction of Parson's Green Lane and Fulham Road, called Purser's Cross, which has been variously written Persicross, Percycross. The stone bearing inscription "Purser's Cross, 7th of August1738, " is built into the wall of the corner house, now a grocer's shop. It was originally in the house on the same site occupied for a time byMadame Grisi. The stone itself is very small, about 8 by 6 inches, and, being high up, is rather difficult to see. The story goes that the placewas so called in memory of a highwayman, who, being overtaken at thecross-roads, shot himself after flinging his purse into the crowd, andwas buried here with a stake driven through his body. Purser's Cross ismentioned in the parish books in 1602. 

Arundel Gardens were built over the site of Arundel House, demolished in1898. 

The origin of the name Arundel House is not known. It seems probablethat the house was originally a Tudor structure, as some unmistakableTudor mullions were found built up in an old wall; yet the greater partof it dated from the Stuart period. A large ornamental cistern whichstood in the scullery bore date 1703. The back view of the house, withits irregular dark-brick buildings and additions, here and there coveredwith creepers, was very picturesque. Tradition says that Henry Hallam, the historian, lived here about 1819. 

Close at hand stands the Fulham Free Public Library. It came intoexistence in 1886, when an old building, standing a few feet back fromthe main Fulham Road, was adapted for offices, lending and referencerooms, and a new reading-room of magnificent dimensions--70 by 30 feet, and 22 feet in height--was added at a cost of £6, 000. This was opened bythe then Bishop of London, October 20, 1888. 

Further westward, at the entrance of Chesilton Place, stands MunsterPark Wesleyan Chapel, with a square tower surmounted by four highpinnacles. It was opened in 1882. 

At the west entrance of the Munster Road stood Munster House, demolishedin 1895. Faulkner spells it Mustow or Munster, and in John Rocque'sSurvey of 1741-45 it is "Muster. " Lysons says: "Mustow (commonly calledMunster) House on the north side of the road to London between Fulhamand Purses Cross was during the greater part of the last century theproperty of the Powells, from whom it came to Sir John Williams ofPengethly, Monmouthshire, Baronet. It is now the property of ArthurAnnesley Powell, Esq. , and is occupied as a school. " Faulkner mentionsthe tradition of its having been a hunting-seat of King Charles II. Croker says it is supposed to owe its name to Melesina Schulenberg, created by George II. Duchess of Munster. For some time before it waspulled down it was used as a lunatic asylum. 

From Munster Road onwards the houses on the south side of the FulhamRoad are not aggressively new. In the grounds of one of them--EridgeHouse--there is a fine cedar, which shows that the grounds must havebelonged to some building older than that standing at present, probablythat of Fulham Lodge. On the east of the High Street stand All Saints'National Schools. In the continuation of the High Street is an old houseon the left-hand side called Fulham House. It stands back on the eastside of the road behind a wall. Some of the carving on the fireplacesand doors is very elaborate. In a large room upstairs a sumptuouslycarved wooden mantel encloses a coloured marble block with a whitemarble centre. The door of this room is also very fine. The cellars areextraordinarily large and massively built. This used to be calledStourton House. Faulkner mentions that in 1449 John Sherbourn and otherssold a house and garden at Fulham, then valued at 3s. 4d. Per annum, toJohn, first Lord Stourton, and it remained in possession of the familymany years. The Fulham Pottery and Cheavin Filter Company stands just atthe corner of the New King's Road and Burlington Street. The businesswas established here by John Dwight in 1671. Specimens of his stone-wareare to be seen in the British Museum, which in 1887 acquired twelve newexamples. It is said that John Dwight, M. A. , of Christ Church College, Oxford, was the inventor of porcelain in England. He also discovered themystery of the Cologne ware, and successfully competed with it inEngland. Doulton himself, the founder of the great Doulton ware, was anapprentice at Fulham. In 1840 the buildings were greatly enlarged andimproved, and again in 1864. The ornamental pottery which is stillmade--though in a small quantity--resembles Doulton ware, but the greatdevelopment of the industry has been in the direction of glazed ware ofgreat resisting power. Cheavin's patent filters are sent all over theworld, and a speciality is made of the chemical trade, immense baths forthe electro-plating acids being supplied to Government. 

Close at hand, at the back of High Street, stood the old workhouse, which has been for many years pulled down. At the back of the HighStreet also was a gaol for female convicts, which has now vanished. Thegaol was built about 1854 on the site of Burlington House, which hadbeen a school. 

Church Row is a charming old-fashioned row, and the houses mentioned byBowack as "very handsome and airy" are probably those still standing. Atthe end of the row are Sir William Powell's Almshouses, prettilydesigned with red-tiled roofs, and at one end is a tower surmounted bystatues of female characters from the Bible. Directly across the road isthe old rectory-house. A shady avenue of young limes leads up to thechurch. The tower, which is square, is shown in old prints to have beensurmounted by a steeple. It contains a peal of bells cast by Ruddle inthe middle of the eighteenth century; all the bells bear inscriptions, and many of them the date of casting. Within the church porch is a boardwith the following words: "1881. The Parish Church of All Saints, Fulham, lapsed into a state of decay, and, being subject to the floodsfrom the river Thames, was pulled down and rebuilt. In the constructionof the present church, stones belonging to three previous churches, theoldest of which apparently dated from the twelfth century, werediscovered. 

"The east end has been carried nine feet, and the south wall five feet, beyond the limits of the previous church, while the floor of the navehas been raised two feet nine inches, and the roof thirteen feet abovethe former levels. The cornerstone at the east angle of the northtransept was laid by Archibald Campbell Tait, 1880, and the church wasre-consecrated by John Jackson, Bishop of London, on July 9th, 1881. "

The monuments preserved from the older buildings stand in the church inrather different order from formerly. In the west end is that inremembrance of Viscount Mordaunt, son of the Earl of Peterborough. It isa statue of a man larger than life; the figure, which is carved inmarble, has a proud and defiant attitude. It stands on a slab of blackmarble supported by a pedestal. On either side on smaller pedestals arethe Viscount's coronet and gauntlets. He is in Roman dress, and holds abaton as Constable of Windsor Castle. On the left is his pedigreeengraved on marble. The date inscribed on the tablet to his memory is1675. At the west end of the north aisle is the ancient font mentionedby Faulkner as standing in the east end of the south aisle. It was thegift of Mr. Thomas Hyll, churchwarden in 1622, and is of stone, paintedand gilt. On the east wall of the north aisle are three monuments whichattract attention. That of "Payne of Pallenswick Esqre, " who "hathplaced this monument to the memory of himself and Jane his wife who hathlived with him in wedlock XLIIII years and died the first day of May inAnno Dmi 1610, and the said William Payne the day of ____ Anno Dmi ____. The sayd William Payne hath given forever after his decease an Ilande inthe Ryver of Thames caled Makenshawe to the use of the poor of thisparish on Hammersmith side. " The date of his own death not having beenfilled in, it is probable he is buried elsewhere. Next to his is themonument of Thomas Bonde, dated March, 1600, with a quaint inscriptionbeginning: "At Earth in Cornwell was my first begininge, from Bondes andCorringtons as it may apere. " Next to this is the monument of KatharineHart, of which a representation is given by Faulkner. She is kneelingwith her two sons and two daughters, in a style similar to the Lawrencemonument in Chelsea Old Church. The inscription bears date 1605. On thenorth side of the chancel is a large monument to Sir Thomas Smith, diedNovember 28, 1609. Opposite is that of Lady Margaret Legh, who isrepresented life-size dressed in stiff ruff and farthingale, holding aninfant in swaddling bands on her knee. Another infant in swaddling bandsis on her left side. Over her is an arch supported by pillars. The coatof arms of her family rests in the centre of the arch. She died July 3, 1603. The monument has been very much admired. In the southern aisle isthe organ, with handsomely carved oak case. On a jutting wall close byis a curious old brass plate found buried in 1770. The inscription is inLatin to Margaret Svanders, who died 1529. The floor of the church isthickly covered with flat tombstones. One of these is in memory ofThomas Carlos, son of Colonel Careless, who hid in the oak-tree withKing Charles II. , and who was consequently allowed to change his name toCarlos, and to bear upon his arms a branching oak-tree. The coat of armson the tomb is very distinct, and the date 1665. 

Opposite to the Peterborough monument at the west end is a very largemarble monument in memory of Dorothy Clarke, and her second husband. Agreat marble urn upon it is said by Bowack to have been the work ofGrinling Gibbons, and to have cost £300. A memorial window to ArchbishopTait is fixed in the west end of the south aisle. In the churchyard arethe tombs of Bishops Compton, Robinson, Gibson, Sherlock, Hayter, Terrick, and Lowth. Here also is the grave of Theodore Hook, the wit, with a perfectly plain stone at the head recording his death, "24th Aug. 1841 in the 53rd year of his age. "

Near the entrance to what are now the public gardens stood Pryor's Bank, a well-known house, built about the beginning of the eighteenth centuryin an ancient style. It was originally called Vine Cottage, and was veryelaborately fitted up. Nearly all the doors were surrounded with carvingand golding. Many of them were of solid oak, and the panelling in therooms corresponded. Two quaint old panels of painted wood in one of thereception-rooms bore curious figures on pedestals; underneath one whowas in ecclesiastical robes was written: "John Baylis, Lord Pryor, 1554, of Werlock Abbey"; and under the other: "William of Wickham, 1366, Bishop of Winchester. " Close by Pryor's Bank stood Egmont Lodge, whereTheodore Hook lived. It was a small house, pulled down in 1855. Theaspect of the whole of this part has been completely changed of lateyears by the building of a river-wall, and the laying out as a publicgarden of the strip of ground by the river called Bishop's Park. 

The grounds of this public park are decorated with flower-beds andsupplied with seats. On part of the space once stood Craven Cottage, built by the Margravine of Brandenburg when she was Countess Craven. SirE. Bulwer-Lytton lived here from 1840 to 1846. At the beginning ofBishop's Avenue is the entrance to the Manor House, or Fulham Palace, asit is commonly called, the residence of the Bishop of London. Passingbetween two lodges of red brick, and following a short drive, we come toa massive gateway with heavy oak doors. Through this lies the firstcourtyard, very little altered from Faulkner's print in 1813. The Manorof Fulham, as we have seen already, has belonged to the See of Londonsince about 691, when it was given to Bishop Erkenwald and hissuccessors by "Tyrtilus, a bishop, with the consent of Sigehard, king ofthe east Saxons and the king of the Mercians. " Lysons adds thatTyrtilus, Bishop of Hereford, who he supposes is intended, wascontemporary with Erkenwald. In 1647 it was sold to Colonel Harvey withthe leasehold land belonging to it for £7, 617 8s. 10d. , but was givenback to the See at the Restoration. In Domesday Book we read: "In Fulhamthe Bishop of London holds forty hides. .. . Its whole value is fortypounds, the like when received in Edward's [the Confessor's] time fiftypounds. "

The carriage-entrance is in Fulham Palace Road, and this leads to anavenue of limes. To the north lies a part of the public park, once afield belonging to the Bishops. The drive crosses the wonderful moat, which is nearly a mile in circuit, and, if dug by the Danes asconjectured, must be a thousand years old. This moat has given rise tomuch discussion, as it is too far from the palace for any purpose ofdefence, and the idea that it was made by the Danes as a partialsafeguard against the floods of the river is that which gains mostcredence. 

The palace is built round two courtyards, and the one first entered isby far the older. It was built by Bishop Fitzjames in the reign of HenryVII. , and the great gateway which leads to it bears his arms cut instone. There are few places that preserve so completely their ancientaspect as this courtyard; the material is red brick, and in summer, whencreepers climb over the worn bricks, its attractiveness is greatlyenhanced. The wing on the west or river side contains the rooms used byLaud while Bishop; this part has been refaced, and the buttresses wereadded at the same time, but within it is unchanged. Opposite, on theeastern side, are the rooms once occupied by Bishop Bonner, which carryan association no less interesting, though of a different kind. Thegreat porch facing the entrance gateway leads into the hall, which isalso part of Bishop Fitzjames's work. The hall is divided by a screen ofdark oak, which came from old Doctors' Commons, and the other oakfittings were brought here from the former chapel, and originallybelonged to the chapel of London House, Aldersgate Street. A new ceilingwas put up by Bishop Sherlock, whose arms are over the fireplace, inconjunction with a framed inscription recording the building of BishopFitzjames on a site where buildings had stood as far back as theConquest. The hall was at one time used as the chapel, of which morewill be told presently. In the same block is the kitchen, once thedining-room. 

In 1715 Bishop Robinson presented a petition to the Archbishop ofCanterbury, stating that the palace was in a ruinous condition, and wastoo large for the revenues. A number of commissioners, amongst whom wereSir John Vanbrugh and Sir Christopher Wren, were accordingly appointedto examine into the matter and report upon it. The purport of theirreport was that, after taking down "the bakehouse and the pastry-house, which adjoined to the kitchen, and all the buildings to the northward ofthe great dining-room, there would be left between fifty and sixtyrooms beside the chapel, hall, and kitchen. " These being judgedsufficient for the use of the Bishop, a license was granted to pull downwhat was superfluous and put the rest into better condition. 

However, in 1764 Bishop Terrick began a further extension andrebuilding, and it is to him we owe the idea of the second quadrangle orcourtyard. He died too soon to complete his project, and left only thewestern wing of the new courtyard, but his work was carried on by hissuccessor, Sherlock. The design was distinctly good, particularly forthat age of debased taste. Engravings of Sherlock's palace showbattlemented angle towers, and a recessed main building which is verypicturesque. In the southern wing he placed the library and dining-room, and on the eastern side he made the chapel. When Bishop Howley came intopower, he set to work at once to alter the palace of his predecessors, and replace it by something which can only be described as a block. Helevelled the frontage between the towers, and cut off the battlements, and made the building much as we see it now, with the exception of themodernization of some of the windows. Howley then converted the buildingmade for the chapel into the library, which it still remains. Itincludes the famous collection of books made by Bishop Porteous. Therooms on the south side became under Bishop Howley's modifications thedining and drawing rooms, and the great hall he used for a chapel. 

It was not until 1867, under Bishop Tait, that the present chapel wasopened. It is connected with the main building by a passage, and standson the river side of the palace. It was designed by Mr. Butterfield, andis bright and well proportioned. Behind the altar at present stands areredos of carved wood with a representation of the Crucifixion. 

The palace grounds have been considerably curtailed by the formation ofthe public park, which now bounds them riverwards. The idea of givingthis portion of land to the public was carried out by Bishop Temple, though it originated with his predecessor. The park includes the longstrip above mentioned, lying outside the moat, and the field to thenorth already spoken of in connection with the drive. The embankment hasentirely altered the aspect of this part of Fulham, and the days whenthe Bishop of London "took water" at his private stairs have gone forever. 

Within the palace gardens are many curious specimens of trees not foundelsewhere in England. Bishop Grindal was the first of the Bishops totake an interest in gardening, but it is to Bishop Compton that we owethe real beauty of the gardens. He was bold enough to defy James II. , and to declare in the House of Lords that the civil and ecclesiasticalconstitution of the kingdom was in danger; he further incensed the Kingby refusing to suspend a clergyman who had preached a sermon againstRoman Catholicism. For this he himself was suspended, and not allowed toexercise his ecclesiastical functions, though, as according to the law, the temporalities of the see were his own--they could not be touched. The Bishop therefore retired to Fulham and sought solace among hisplants, to the great gain of his successors in the See. 

But the palace and its grounds have occupied us long enough, and theramble through Fulham must be resumed. 

A small footbridge leads across the moat to the churchyard. Crossingthis, we find ourselves in Church Row, which brings us to the junctionof the New King's Road and the old High Street. Following the New King'sRoad and passing under the railway, we come almost immediately to theshady drive leading to Mulgrave House. Adjoining the grounds of MulgraveHouse are those of Hurlingham Club, which cover fifty acres, and includea picturesque lake. Pigeon-shooting, polo-playing, tennis, and archeryare all provided for. The entrance in the Hurlingham Road leads to awell-kept drive, which takes us straight up to the club-house. The houseis of white stone, and the front facing the river has an arcadesupported by enormous pillars running right up to the cornice. On thewest side is a fine conservatory, on the east the large dining-rooms andsmoking-lounge, which have been added to meet requirements. Within thehouse itself the drawing-room and coffee-room have been ornamented withcoloured designs on ceiling and walls, and are very bright andhandsomely furnished. Many of the rooms upstairs have ornamented carvedcornices and panels. The club was started in 1867, mainly forpigeon-shooting, under the auspices of Mr. Frank Heathcote, who leasedit from Mr. Naylor. Before that time the house had been the residence ofthe Horsley-Palmers and of Lord Egremont. In 1874 the property wasbought by the club, and polo-playing was begun. The King and Queen--asPrince and Princess of Wales--and Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh watchedthe first game in the June of that year. 

The ancient history of the house is defective. In the churchwarden'saccounts of the parish in 1681 we read: "It is ordered that there bebuilt and erected two small tenements next to the north side of ye pooreAlmes Houses given by John Lappy with such old stuff as was latelytaken downe from the Pest Houses in Hurlingham Field at ye charge of theParish contayning two roomes. " And Faulkner adds an extract fromBrayley's "London" to the above in the form of a note: "Hurlingham Fieldis now the property of the Earl of Ranelagh, and the site of his house. It was here that great numbers of people were buried during the plague. "The origin of the name seems lost in obscurity, though it has beensuggested, perhaps facetiously, it was derived from the custom ofhurling the bodies of the plague dead into any grave without care orcompunction. Broom House, next door, with adjoining grounds, is noticedin Rocque's 1757 map, and is inscribed on Faulkner's 1813 map as "BroomHouses. " Faulkner refers to it as a little village, but mentions that"the Dowager Countess of Lonsdale has an elegant house and garden herein full view of the Thames. " The place is said to have received its namefrom the broom which grew here profusely. Broomhouse Road runs fromHurlingham Road, past the gates of Broom House, down to the river. It isa veritable lane, with leafy trees shadowing it. On the east side, alittle above Broom House, is a very striking building of red brick, withbright white stone facings, and a square central tower surmounted byfour pinnacles. This is the Elizabeth Free School, founded and endowedby Mr. Sulivan of Broom House, in 1855. Further down the road, close bythe river, is Carnwath House, the residence of the Earl of Carnwath. Itis irregularly built of brick. Beyond it is a raised path, which windsalong by the river and leads past acres of market-gardens, in which arelarge plum-orchards. 

Northward is Parsons Green, so called from the fact that the oldrectory-house stood on the west side. Lysons says: "Parsonage housestands upon the west side of Parsons or Parsonage Green, to which itgave its name. It is now divided into two tenements. In the year 1598 itwas in the tenure of Sir Francis Walsingham's widow. " Bowack, in 1705, wrote that it was old and much decayed. He says an old stone buildingadjoining seemed to be 300 or 400 years old, and might have been usedfor religious services by the Rectors and their households. Parson'sGreen was once a very fashionable place; in Strype's edition of Stow's"Survey" it is commented on as having "very good houses for gentry. " St. Dionis' Church is a noticeable object, built of red brick, with Bathstone dressings. Though only consecrated on June 18, 1885, it carrieswith it associations from an older building, St. Dionis Backchurch, which stood at the corner of Lime Street and Fenchurch Street. When thatchurch had been pulled down, the pulpit, font, and altar weretransferred to the new building at Fulham, and £10, 000 was devoted outof the proceeds of the sale of the site for the use and endowment of thenew church. The pulpit and font date from 1666. The plate also isinteresting, including two flagons, four chalices, four patens, etc. , which are of various dates from 1625 to 1725. A large red-brick hall, separated from the church by Rectory Road, is used as a mission-hall. Afew steps further northward, partly hidden from the road by interveningbuildings, was the old house called Rosamund's Bower. Before itsdemolition in 1892 it was quaintly pretty, with leaded window-panes andred-tiled roof, and was then known as Audley Cottage. It was calledRosamond's Bower first in order to perpetuate the tradition of itsstanding on the site of a mansion of Fair Rosamund. The earliest mentionof it is in 1480, when it was valued at ten marks per annum. It belongedto Sir Michael Wharton before 1725, and when he died in that year it wasdivided between his co-heirs. It was the residence of Mr. Crofton Crokerbetween 1837 and 1846, and he has written a very full account of it. Samuel Richardson came to Parson's Green in 1755 from North End. InAshington Road stands the Church of the Holy Cross, a Roman Catholicbuilding of plain yellow brick, with a cross at each end, built in 1886. Just after leaving Parson's Green, there is on the right a highred-brick wall, which shows signs of age. Within it stood until recentlyPeterborough House, the second of the name. The original PeterboroughHouse stood on the site of one still older, known as Brightwells. It wasthe property of John Tarnworth, Privy Councillor to Queen Elizabeth, andhe died here in 1569. 

Sir Thomas Knolles afterwards owned it, and sold it in 1603 to SirThomas Smith, whose only daughter married the Hon. Thomas Carey. It washe who pulled down the old house and built a new one, calling it VillaCarey. Carey's daughter married Viscount Mordaunt, younger son of theEarl of Peterborough. The house recently demolished only dated from thebeginning of the nineteenth century. Bowack describes the old house as a"very large square regular Pile, built of brick, and has a gallery allround it upon the roof. " Building of red-brick mansions and small housesis being carried on vigorously all about here, and the face of thedistrict has changed very rapidly. 

Wandsworth Bridge Road runs across Townmead Road to the bridge. On thesouth of Townmead Road there is a small hospital for small-pox, built in1876. Below it lies West Wharf. Eastward acres of market-gardens extendright up to the premises of the Imperial Gasworks. This part of theparish is called Sands End. Somewhere about here a very ancient house, called Grove House, stood. Rocque marks it "The Grove" in 1757 and 1761. The house called Sandford Manor is still standing, and is very littlechanged from the small print of it given on the title-page of Faulkner'slarge edition. It is a small white house close to Stanley Bridge, andhas been often spoken of as if it were included in Chelsea. Addison, wholived here, used to date his letters from Chelsea. Therefore the househas been more particularly described in the section devoted to Chelsea. The Manor of Sandford is first mentioned in 1403, when Henry, Earl ofNorthumberland, gave it to the Dean and Chapter of St. Martin-le-Grandin exchange for a house in Aldersgate Street. King Henry VIII. Grantedthe collegiate church of St. Martin and endowments to Westminster. TheDean and Chapter of Westminster granted the manor to the King again in1549. It was sold by Queen Mary to the Maynards, in whose family itremained till 1756. 

We have now traversed Fulham from end to end, beginning at thenorth-east corner, and ending in the south-east corner close to StanleyBridge. Fulham can boast with pride of one ancient mansion--the palaceof the Bishops of London--and of one literary reminiscence--that ofRichardson--worthy to rank, if not in the very first class, yetsomewhere near it. 

[Illustration: FULHAM DISTRICT. 

Published by A. & C. Black, London. ]

PUTNEY

BY J. C. GEIKIE. 

The first mention made of Putney--styled "Putenhie" in the Conqueror'sDomesday Book, and "Puttenheth" in all subsequent records--is inconnection with the fishery and ferry which existed here at the time ofthe Conquest. In 1663 the fishery was held for the three best salmoncaught in March, April, and May, but this rent was afterwards convertedto a money value. At the sale of Sir Theodore Janssen's estates thefishery was let for £6 per annum. The rent was afterwards increased to£8, and a lease upon those terms expired in 1780. Since 1786 thisfishery has been abandoned. Mention is also made that occasionally aporpoise was caught here, and, as a matter of fact, two watermen shotone here lately; but it was confiscated, and the men fined fordischarging firearms on the river. The ferry at the time of the Conquestyielded 20s. A year to the Lord of the Manor, and Putney appears at alltimes to have been a considerable thoroughfare, as it was usual formerlyfor persons travelling from London to the West of England to come as faras this by water. In Elizabeth's reign it was ordered that watermenshould pay a halfpenny for every stranger, and a farthing for everyinhabitant of Putney, to the ferry-owner, or be fined 2s. 6d. In 1629the Lord of the Manor received 15s. Per year for the ferry. 

In 1726, the twelfth year of George I. 's reign, an Act of Parliament waspassed for building a wooden bridge from Putney to Fulham, which wasfinished in the year 1729 at an expense of £23, 975, and the ferry wasbought up, those interested in it being paid proportionately. The planfor the bridge was drawn by the celebrated Mr. Cheselden, Surgeon ofChelsea Hospital. The bridge was 789 feet long and 24 feet wide, withopenings for vessels to pass through, the largest of which, in thecentre, was named Walpole's Lock, in honour of Sir Robert Walpole, whohelped to procure the Act of Parliament to build the bridge. A toll of ahalfpenny was charged foot-passengers, and on Sundays this was doubled, for the purpose of raising a fund of £62 a year, which was dividedannually between the widows and children of poor watermen belonging toPutney and Fulham as a recompense to the fraternity, who were notallowed to ply on Sundays after the building of the bridge. This bridgewas purchased by the Corporation of London, and by them transferred tothe Board of Works, who erected in the years 1884-1886 the presentsubstantial stone bridge on the site formerly occupied by the aqueductof the Chelsea Waterworks Company. The approaches on both sides havebeen greatly improved, and it is now toll-free. 

The parish church of St. Mary's stands on the river-bank adjoining thebridge, and was originally built as a chapel of ease to Wimbledon, and, owing to absence of all records, the date of its erection cannot beascertained, though it is certainly older than the church at Mortlake(1348), for Archbishop Winchelsea held a public ordination in it as farback as 1302. The stone tower is of more recent date, being probably notlater than the middle of the fifteenth century. The church sufferedgreatly in the dreadful storm which happened in November, 1703. Facingsouth on its tower is a sundial with the appropriate motto, "Time andtide stay for no man. "

Pepys makes frequent mention of Putney and the church, and hiscontemporary Evelyn also speaks of the village. This place maintainedits suburban character until a few years ago, and it is not long sincethe High Street was represented as having one broad pavement lined withstately trees, and a kennel on either side, by means of which the roadwas watered in summer. From the bridge westward the river has beenembanked and a promenade built and lined with seats, and this is afavourite spot on warm summer evenings. At the far end of this broadroad are the boat-houses of the London, Thames, Leander, and otherwell-known clubs, mostly of brick, with dressing-rooms upstairs and widebalconies giving fine views of the river. Some boat-building andoar-making also is to be found here, as this is the headquarters ofLondon rowing, and noted for the Oxford and Cambridge Boat-race. Thisrace was first rowed at Henley in 1829, next from Westminster to Putneyin 1836, and that course was adhered to until 1851, when that fromPutney to Mortlake was adopted, and this, save on three occasions--inthe years 1846, 1856, 1863--has since been the battle-ground of theUniversities. 

After leaving the High Street at the bridge end, the way to theriver-bank is down what was formerly Windsor Street, but is now known aspart of the Lower Richmond Road; and here on the south side, coveringthe site of River Terrace, now torn down, and River Street, stood "thePalace, " so called from its having been frequently honoured by thepresence of royalty. It is described as having been a spacious red-brickmansion of the Elizabethan style of architecture, forming three sides ofa square, with plate-glass windows overlooking the river, and possessedof extensive gardens and pleasure-grounds. It was built within acourtyard, and approached by iron gates. It occupied the site of theancient mansion of the Welbecks, and was erected by John Lacey, citizenand clothworker of London, in 1596. Queen Elizabeth honoured Lacey withher company more frequently than any of her subjects, and between theyears 1579 and 1603 at least twelve or fourteen visits of hers to thishouse at Putney are recorded. The house is mentioned as the headquartersof Fairfax in 1647. In that year, when Charles I. Was at Hampton Court, all the Parliamentary Generals were at Putney. Cromwell was at Mr. Bonhunt's, the site of which is not known; Ireton at Mr. Campion's (aschool in the occupation of Rev. Mr. Adams when Lysons wrote, and nowcovered by Cromwell Place); Fleetwood was at Mr. Martin's; and the otherofficers at neighbouring mansions, of which at that time there seem tohave been many. Councils were held in the church, seated round theCommunion-table, the officers afterwards listening to a sermon. Two daysafter the King escaped from Hampton the army quitted Putney, having beenthere some three months. 

Facing the river near the Putney Steamboat Pier is a big hotel, the Starand Garter, for long a landmark at Putney, and recently rebuilt in allthe splendour of red brick and gilt. Beyond this formerly stood a numberof old houses--Clyde House, Riverside House, Thanet Lodge, LaburnumHouse, Windsor House, and Point House; these had tiled roofs andbay-windows, and formed a picturesque group. They have recently beenreplaced by large mansions, called Star and Garter, and UniversityMansions. In Spring Gardens was formerly a curious collection of thecottages of watermen and boatmen, but these have now vanished. The lanehas been paved and the whole district altered. 

West of this as far as the common many alterations have taken place inthe last few years, and now the market-gardens and fields are coveredwith street after street of small two-storied cottages stretching instraight lines from the Lower Richmond Road to the river. The sameapplies to the district between here and the Upper Richmond Road as farwest as the London boundary at Northumberland Terrace. Here stood untilrecently prolific gardens and orchards, but now the site is covered withstreets arranged as closely as possible, and filled with a rather betterstyle of dwellings than those to the northward. 

Passing west, we come at length to the gateway of the Ranelagh Club atBarn Elms. From this entrance, with its large gates and porter's lodge, the private road runs over the Beverley Brook, and, swerving to thewest, enters the park proper. This manor was given by Athelstane to theCanons of St. Paul's, and is still held by them. The mansion of BarnElms was formerly in the possession of Sir Francis Walsingham, and herein 1589 he entertained Queen Elizabeth. Pepys and Evelyn both makemention of this place in their diaries, and it was here that the duelwas fought--January 16, 1678--between the Earl of Shrewsbury and theDuke of Buckingham. The meetings of the Kitcat Club were held here in aroom specially built for the purpose by Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, who lived in a house formerly known as Queen Elizabeth's Dairy, and diedthere November 25, 1735. At present Ranelagh rivals Hurlingham as asocial outdoor club, and the merits of the respective grounds are amatter of opinion. 

On the Lower Common, standing out by themselves, are two old houses, ElmLodge and West Lodge, in big gardens sliced off the common. The housesare fancifully painted, and half hidden behind a privet hedge and a rowof elms. The common to the south is bare of bushes, but to the norththere are still big clumps of gorse and brambles, with many stragglingtrees between. Putney Cemetery is on the common, and further west thatof Barnes is seen. At the beginning of the Mill Hill Road is an oldcottage hidden behind closely-trimmed trees and a high hedge, theresidence of the cattle gate-keeper, whose duty it was in former yearsto prevent the straying of animals from the parish of Barnes into thatof Putney. The gate has been removed, but the place marks the Londonboundary, which follows the line of the big ditch due south across theLower to the Upper Richmond Road. 

On the south side of the Lower Common stands a long row of staring QueenAnne cottages, and at the east end of them the Church of All Saints, inthe Early English style, erected in 1874, with schools close by. Hiddenaway behind the church is an old wooden farmhouse, the last of many thatformerly dotted these fields. 

Passing eastwards, the Upper Road leads to the Charlwood Road, andacross the railway-bridge the new streets, Norroy and Chelverton Roads, have been made as far as the High Street through the grounds of TheLawn, an old house which stood next the Spotted Horse. To the west shortroads have been pushed out into the market-gardens, and north, at theangle, stands the Quill Inn, behind which Quill Alley, a narrow pavedpassage skirting the backs of the houses, leads into a labyrinth ofsmall streets set at all angles and of all degrees of respectability. There are many newly-built flats on either side of Quill Alley. Everyfoot of ground is taken up, and from the Coopers' Arms to Gardeners'Lane the district is compact with small houses and shops. Here inWalker's Place, a square of old houses, with gardens in front, under theshadow of an enormous brewery, was formerly a little wooden tumbledowninn known as the Coat and Badge. This has been rebuilt; it was so calledfrom the insignia of the actor Doggett's annual prize for Thameswatermen. At the end of this lane stands an old hostelry, the Coopers'Arms, and at the end of Gardeners' Lane was another, the Bull and Star, also rebuilt recently. Gardeners' Lane leads through a closely built upsettlement to the Whirlpool, and here the last remnant of themarket-gardens is to be found. 

In the High Street, which is fast altering its character, there are oneor two old houses, but the greater number are modern. The PublicLibrary, which is situate in Disraeli Road, leading off the High Street, was first established in 1887. It is only since 1899 that it hasoccupied its present building, which, with the site, was the gift of SirGeorge Newnes, Bart. , M. P. , and was opened by the late Lord Russell ofKillowen, Lord Chief Justice of England. 

To the east of the High Street the residential part of Putney is builtup of new, clean streets, laid out on the market-gardens and orchardsthat till recently occupied most of this district. 

In Northfield Square stood several fine old houses, one of which, Fairfax House, made way for the Montserrat Road at its High Street end;and another, Grove House, said to originally have been a convent, andassociated by tradition with the name of Oliver Cromwell, disappearedwhen the western end of Disraeli Road was made. The railway-stationadjoining occupies the site of some very old houses, and in therailway-cutting the workmen came upon a sewer, in which were discoveredsome silver spoons of ancient date. A Baptist chapel in the Werter Road, Oxford Congregational Chapel in the Oxford Road, and Emanuel Church inthe Upper Richmond Road, supply the religious needs of theneighbourhood. 

Passing along the Putney Bridge Road from the High Street, BrewhouseLane runs north to the waterside; on one side are rows of new shops, onthe other a swimming-bath. This lane was formerly one of the principallandings for ferry passengers to Putney, but to-day is almost deserted. An engraving of Fulham by Preist in 1738 is evidently taken from thesteps, and shows the bridge and Fulham Church. From this landing a fineview is to be had of Putney Bridge; upstream and downstream is seen thebig iron lattice bridge that carries the District Railway over fromFulham on its way to Wimbledon. A soap-boiler's establishment withseveral smaller yards makes the lane busy, but there are still a lot ofsmall cottages--some very old--of a poor type, and rented for the mostpart by labourers. 

Passing on, the almshouses founded by Sir Abraham Dawes are on the southside. He was a farmer of the Customs, an eminent loyalist of the reignof Charles II. , and one of the richest commoners of the time. Originallybuilt for twelve almsmen and almswomen, they have been latterly occupiedentirely by women. The north side of the road is here substantiallybuilt up, and the Deodar, Florian, and Merivale Roads on the CedarsEstate are comparatively new. Two old houses, Cedar Lodge and CrestHouse, remain, with Park Lodge at the corner of the Atney Road, newlyfronted, but below the grade of the road. To the railroad arch whichspans the road are built on the north side a row of new cottages withshops opposite. Beyond the arch at the bend of the road, which is herenarrowed by an old house encroaching on the footpath, is a fine oldmansion, Moulinere House. 

Returning whence we came, we pass up the High Street and come to PutneyHill, which forms a test of the endurance of cyclists. 

At the base of Putney Hill stands The Pines, the residence of Swinburnethe poet. Here, where modern villas have risen most recently, andstately trees fallen most rapidly, stood Lime Grove, the seat of LadySt. Aubyn. This mansion derived its name from a grove of limes throughwhich the road to the house formerly led; and it was here in 1737 thatEdward Gibbon, the historian, was born. He was educated in Putney tillhis ninth year, when he was sent to a public school at Kingston. It wason Putney Hill that the following event occurred: When Cardinal Wolseyceased to be the holder of the Great Seal of England, and, obeying themandate of Henry VIII. , quitted the Palace of Whitehall, he removed tohis palace at Esher. Embarking at Whitehall Stairs, he went by water toPutney, and started up the hill, but was overtaken by one of the royalChamberlains, Sir John Norris, who presented him with a ring as a tokenof a continuance of His Majesty's favour. Stow tells how Wolsey at oncegot off his mule unaided, and, kneeling down in the dirt on both knees, held up his hands for joy at the King's most comfortable message. 

Passing up the hill, a few new streets are being pushed into the fields, which are, however, still continuous to the westward, the limit ofbuilding being apparently reached for a time in that direction, and, after a short climb past fine houses with spacious grounds and drives, we come to Putney Heath near the Green Man, a quaint little road-houseof the last century; close by it is the old cattle-pound. The heath, ofsome 400 acres, somewhat resembles that of Hampstead, and from thehigher ground some excellent views are to be obtained, whilst the sandyhollows and surface are plentifully covered with heather, gorse, andbrambles. On the northern side, facing the road which leads toRoehampton, are many fine houses--among others, Grantham House, theresidence of Lady Grantham; Ashburton House; Exeter House, occupied bythe second Marquis of Exeter, who, divorced from his Marchioness, wooedand won for his bride a country girl under the guise of an artist;Gifford House; and Dover House, the seat originally of Lord Dover, afterwards of Lord Clifden, and now the residence of J. Pierpont Morgan. To the west of the heath lie Putney Park and Roehampton. PutneyPark--styled Mortlake Park in old memorials--was reserved to the Crownby Henry VIII. Charles I. Granted the park to Richard, Earl of Pembroke, who here erected a splendid mansion, which soon after his decease wassold, together with the park, to Sir Thomas Dawes, by whom it was againdisposed of to Christina, Countess of Devonshire, whom Charles II. Visited at this place with the Queen-mother and the Royal Family. 

Putney Heath is divided by the Portsmouth Road, which starts at theGreen Man and meets the Kingston Road at the foot of the hill in PutneyBottom, and facing this road are many fine houses, as well as thereservoirs of the Chelsea Water Company, from which water is conveyed tothe Middlesex side of the Thames by pipes beneath the roadway of PutneyBridge. 

To the south of the reservoirs is a fine new house Wildcroft, theresidence of Sir George Newnes, Bart. , which stands in the grounds ofthe old Fireproof House, lately pulled down. This house was erected in1776 by David Hartley, son of the celebrated Dr. Hartley, to demonstratethe efficacy of his plan for securing buildings from fire. This planconsisted in thin sheets of iron and of copper being laid between floorand ceiling to prevent the ascent of heated air from the lower to theupper rooms. The lower part of this house was repeatedly set on fire inthe presence, among others, of the King and Queen, the members ofParliament, the Lord Mayor, and the Aldermen. The House of Commonsgranted Hartley £2, 500 in aid of the expenses incurred, and theCorporation erected in the grounds an obelisk--which can be plainly seenfrom the Kingston Road--recording the experiments of the grant. Theheath was the scene of many duels, among others, in May, 1652, LordChandos and Colonel Compton fought with fatal issue, Compton beingkilled. In May, 1798, on a Sunday afternoon, William Pitt, the PrimeMinister, who lived in the Bowling-Green House close by, fought abloodless battle with William Tierney, M. P. ; and in September, 1809, anencounter took place between Lord Castlereagh and George Canning, whenthe latter was wounded in the thigh. This last duel was fought near theAdmiralty semaphore erected in 1796, the site of which is indicated bythe Telegraph Inn immediately behind Wildcroft. Across the corner of thegreen from the inn is Bristol House, which owes its name to the Bristolfamily, who possessed it till a few years ago, and which was for sometwo years the residence of Mrs. Siddons. A part of the estate has beenbuilt on; many handsome residences have been erected. 

Next is a large mansion, Highlands, and west of it is the historicalBowling-Green House, a low, two-storied mansion painted white, withlarge windows, and the Pitt arms over the doorway. In this house, shadedby fine trees, with a beautiful prospect from the lawn, lived for someyears William Pitt, the Prime Minister; and here, on June 23, 1806, hedied. The house derives its name from the bowling-green formerlyattached to it, and for more than sixty years (1690-1750) the mostfamous green in the neighbourhood of London. The house had large roomsfor public breakfasts and assemblies, was a fashionable place ofentertainment, and noted for "deep play. " South of this Bowling GreenHouse is Scio, a charming residence, with beautiful lawns facing themain Kingston Road, in the Gothic style, and from here the flagstaff andwindmill on the heath are noticed. Close by was the gallows in the oldentime, and here it was that one of the last of the highwaymen--JeremiahAbershaw--hung in chains in 1795, after suffering the penalty of the lawon Kingston Common, then the place of execution for Surrey. Beingcrossed by a main road, this dreary neighbourhood was formerly muchfrequented by footpads and highwaymen. Aubrey mentions the gallows nearhere, and adds that Roman urns are often found in the dry, gravellyground. 

Putney Heath merges into Wimbledon Common, a fine expanse of 1, 000 acresof breezy upland. The headquarters of the National Rifle Associationtill 1889 were in the Windmill, a picturesque landmark seen from far andnear; but owing to increasing danger and the enormous crowds thatflocked to the camp it was removed to Bisley in Surrey. The Windmill wasformerly a favourite resort of duellists. Some distance from thewindmill is Cæsar's Well, the most historical spot on Wimbledon Common, and its water is said to possess medicinal properties. This common andPutney Heath were in the last century the scene of frequent reviews. George III. Reviewed the Surrey volunteers here in 1799, as he hadpreviously done the Guards in 1767; and Charles II. , in 1684, alsoreviewed his forces on the heath. At the north-west corner of the heathlies the village of Roehampton, snugly nestling in a valley, andconsisting of a small cluster of houses. The centre of the village is atthe angle of Roehampton Lane, where a drinking-fountain, a gift of Mr. Lyne-Stephens, stands in the road, with the Catholic chapel of St. Joseph's, approached through a beautiful carved oaken lych-gate, facingit. This chapel and rectory stand in the grounds of Manresa House, atraining college of the Jesuit Fathers. To the north is a quaint oldvillage inn, the Montague Arms, flanked by a row of old cottages. Ponsonby Road and Medfield Street are lined with small houses, for themost part new, very clean, and well kept. The parochial schools, in twobuildings, for boys and girls, are in the Ponsonby Road on the hillside, and between them is a church, completed in 1899. In the High Street, which is built up with small shops for a short distance, stands on thenorth side, well back from the road, the King's Head Inn, with itswonderful signboard displayed in the garden, its big, old-fashionedbay-windows, curious low-ceilinged rooms, and weather-boarded sides, shaded by great elms, giving it a very picturesque aspect. The gardens, with tables set out in little nooks, and the stables of the houseacross the yard, complete a picture, of which few are to be found nearLondon now. In this street is one of the buildings of St. Mary'sConvent, a red-brick pile used as a laundry. 

Returning to Roehampton Lane, and passing up the rise to the south, wecome to the Alton Road, lined with good houses, and a little to the westthe Bessborough Road falls into it, and runs through a favouriteresidential district built up with fine dwellings. Here the hollows madeby gravel-digging on the edge of the heath are being, in a measure, filled up with earth from the building going on near by, and oppositeThe Elms, on the brow of the common, a peculiar tomblike building isnoticed. This is merely a spring-house covering the artesian well thatsupplies the drinking-fountain in the village. At Highwood, asolidly-built mansion, we come to the Portsmouth Road, and after passingseveral villas, to Kingston Road at the foot of the hill. Here, on thewest side, Richmond Park stretches parallel with the road, the enclosingwall being so close to the road as to give the houses hardly any garden;still, from here to the Robin Hood Gate there are many pretty villas, and at Beverley Brook a row of cottages has been erected close to thewall. On the east side of the road a new cemetery of the Putney BurialBoard is under the lee of the hill, and beyond are fields stretchingsouthward, running up to and meeting Wimbledon Common. In the hollowadjoining the main road is the Newlands Farmhouse to which these acresbelong, and adjoining is the Halfway House, at one time an inn said tohave been the favourite drinking-place of the highwayman Abershaw. StagLane leads to the common, and further on Beverley Brook is crossed, herea narrow strip of Wimbledon Common meets the highroad. This stream fromhere, through the park, and across Barnes Common into the Thames, is thewestern boundary of London, and by following it we pass cottages on theright, and may note the beautiful views to the east toward Wimbledon andCombe. If we turn into Richmond Park through the Robin Hood Gate, socalled from the roadside inn near, we come to one of the prettiestcorners of the park, from which roads diverge in all directions. On therise to the west is White Lodge, at one time the residence of the Dukeand Duchess of Teck, parents of the Princess of Wales; and bearing tothe right we see the deer-paddock, with Silver Hill and the King's FarmLodge. The area of the park is a little over 2, 015 acres, and it wasformed by Charles I. In the early years of his reign out of wood andwaste land. The wall--eleven miles in circumference--was built withoutconsulting the owners and tenants of the houses and farms enclosed. In1649 this park was given to the City of London in perpetuity, but washanded back again to Charles II. On his restoration. The Princess Ameliaclosed the public rights of way through the demesne, but in 1758 adecision of the courts renewed this privilege. 

Leaving the park on the right, we see Mount Clare, built in 1772 byGeorge Clive, and named in honour of Claremont, the residence at Esherof his relative Lord Clive. On the west side of Priory Lane are threemansions, of which one, Clarence House, was for awhile the residence ofthe Duke of Clarence, afterwards William IV. Clarence Lane skirts thegrounds of Grove House, which was in the reign of George IV. Theresidence of the celebrated danseuse, Mademoiselle Duvernay. The lanecomes out into Roehampton Lane opposite Roehampton House, a finered-brick building, with wings, erected in 1712. The ceiling of thesaloon has a painting of the Banquet of the Gods by Sir James Thornhill, the father-in-law of Hogarth. 

Southward, nearer to the park, are Cedar Court and Downshire House, twofine old mansions, the latter for a time the residence of theMarchioness of Downshire, and now a training college for army and navystudents. At a bend in the road, where it goes downhill, is a quaintold-fashioned house, The Cottage, curiously built. To the west the viewis charming toward the park. Holy Trinity Church, now closed, was builtin the middle of the nineteenth century, but the original church wasconsecrated by Archbishop Laud. 

A very fine cedar stands in the churchyard, and on the north is thelarge and costly mausoleum of the Stephens family. Further north is theConvent of the Sacred Heart, standing in Roehampton Park, a spaciousGothic edifice, and opposite is the Rookery, alongside of which runs alane through beautiful meadows past Putney House into Putney Park Lane. Towards Barnes, in Roehampton Lane, standing in wide grounds, areseveral family mansions, of which Lower Grove House, Subiaco Lodge, Ellenborough House, and Roehampton Lodge, are some of the best known. The new polo club, which it is prophesied by its originators willoutshine Hurlingham and Ranelagh, has its grounds between Priory andRoehampton Lanes at their northern ends. 

Roehampton Lane runs into Upper Richmond Road at its junction with LowerRichmond Road. Barnes Common, one of the prettiest of the bits of wildland near London, is rather cut up by the railroad. To the Londonboundary in the west, that is the Priests' Bridge over Beverley Brook, the road runs between hedges most of the way, but near the bridge are afew cottages and small shops. The Manor House stands at the junction ofthe upper and lower roads, and wears an air of solidity, compared withits newer neighbours nearer town. It faces a small angle of lawn, backedby a hedge of rhododendrons, and is a plain, square, two-story dwellingwith a porch, flanked by greenhouses; the walls are hidden behind ivythat climbs to the tiled roof. East of the Manor House rows of red-brickcottages on the north side stretch to Dyers Lane, and opposite is PutneyPark Avenue, with its small cottages closely built; there are fieldsbefore Putney Park Lane which is lined with tall Scotch firs. Workmendigging here disclose the depth of fine sand and gravel which underliesall this region and gives it such perfect surface drainage. A gatemarked "Private" leads into Putney Park Lane, and passing south under anavenue of magnificent elms, with the remains of orchards andmarket-gardens to the east and rolling fields to the west, we passPutney Park House, and beyond a nurseryman's gardens see the GranardPresbyterian Church, a stone church with slated spire, standing at thecorner of the lane that leads across the fields and past orchards andmarket-gardens to Howard's Lane. Westward from the church another laneleads through pleasant meadows, with beautiful views of the mansionsthat lie back from the roads, and comes out at the convent in RoehamptonLane. Towards Putney Heath two large houses are seen--Granard Lodge inthe Putney Park Lane, and Summerfield behind it. Passing down the lanefrom the church and entering Howard's Lane we find a district of newhouses to the north, in straight rows at regular intervals, gauged, apparently, by the size of the backyards. To the south one row of smallcottages, Upper Park Fields, juts out into the market-gardens, which, with the fields behind, are still free from buildings. At the westernend of Howard's Lane is a large tennis-ground belonging to a local club, while beyond is seen the advance of bricks and mortar towards the west. Carmalt Gardens leads into the Upper Richmond Road at its best part, forall the houses here are of a good style and size. At the corner ofGwendolen Avenue stands a Wesleyan Methodist church of stone, with asquare tower, and south a few houses flank it; but though all this landwas lately open it is now built over. At the St. John's Road, however, buildings have rapidly risen, and the Church of St. John at the cornerof the Ravenna Road is now surrounded by a well-built-up neighbourhood. Cambalt Road is also new, with strange types of houses, and behind this, again, is another avenue, Chartfield Road, filled with new houses, running through to Putney Hill. South of this rise the well-woodedgrounds of the large houses on the hill, with fields to the westward. 

And thus we take leave of Putney, one of the pleasantest of the Londonsuburbs, as well as the most accessible. The immense increase in thenumber of houses in late years testifies to its popularity; but there isstill an almost unlimited extent of open ground which cannot be covered;and with wood and water, common and hill, there will always be anelement of freshness and openness in Putney seldom to be obtained sonear London. 

[Illustration: PUTNEY DISTRICT. 

Published by A. & C. Black, London. ]

INDEX

Abershaw, Jeremiah, 86, 89

Addison, 70

Alphery, Mickephor, 17

Alton Road, 88

Arundel House, 51

Ashburton House, 83

Barn Elms, 76

Barnes Common, 77, 91

Beavor Lodge, 17

Bessborough Road, 88

Beverley Brook, 89

Billington, Mrs. , 41

Bishop's Park, 59, 63

Blythe House, 23

Bolingbroke House, 49

Bonner, Bishop, 61

Bowling-Green House, 85

Bradmore House, 8

Brandenburg, Anspach, Margravine, 40

Brandenburg House, 39

Bristol House, 85

Broadway, The, 19

Brook Green, 20

Brook Green Almshouses, 20

Broom House, 66

Buckingham, Duke of, 77

Burlington House, 54

Burne-Jones, Sir E. , 36

Burney, Dr. , 5

Butchers' Almshouses, 47

Butterwick House, 8

Cambalt Road, 93

Camden, 5

Canning, George, 85

Carey, Hon. T. , 69

Carnwath House, 67

Caroline, Queen, 41

Catherine of Braganza, 16

Cedar Lodge, 81

Chancellor Road, 13

Chandos, Lord, 84

Charles I. , 35

Charles II. , 83

Chartfield Road, 93

Cheselden, Mr. , 72

Child, Sir Francis, 49

Chiswick Ait, 3

Church Road, 54

Churches: All Saints' (Parish), Fulham, 55 All Saints', Putney, 77 St. Andrew's, Fulham, 38 St. Augustine's, Lillie Road, 44 Christ Church, Blythe Road, 23 Holy Cross (R. C. ), Ashington Road, 68 St. Clement's, Fulham, 42 St. Dionis', Parson's Green, 67 St. Gabriel's, Clifton Street, 32 Granard Presbyterian, 92 Holy Innocents', Hammersmith, 27 Holy Trinity, Hammersmith, 32 Holy Trinity, Roehampton, 91 St. James's, Moore Park Road, 47 St. John's, Putney, 93 St. John's, Walham Green, 47 St. Joseph's (R. C. ), 87 St. Luke's, Uxbridge Road, 30 St. Mark's, Hammersmith, 13 St. Mary's, Goldhawk Road, 29 St. Mary's, Hammersmith Road, 37 St. Mary's (Parish), Putney, 73 St. Matthew's, Sinclair Road, 24 St. Paul's (Parish), Hammersmith, 9 St. Peter's, Hammersmith, 18 St. Peter's, Reporton Road, 44 St. Saviour's, Cobbold Road, 29 St. Simon's, Minford Gardens, 24 St. Stephen's, Shepherd's Bush, 28 St. Thomas's, Godolphin Road, 28 St. Thomas's (R. C. ), Rylston Road, 44

Cipriani, 7, 37

Clapham, Margaret, 8

Clarence, Duke of, 90

Clarence House, 90

Clarke, W. T. , 12

Clinton House, 83

Clyde House, 76

Colet Court, 5

Colet, Dean, 4

Compton, Bishop, 63

Compton, Colonel, 84

Compton, Spencer, 5

Convent of Good Shepherd, 13

Convent of Sacred Heart, Hammersmith, 19

Convent of Sacred Heart, Roehampton, 91

Craven Cottage, 59

Crest House, 81

Crispe, Sir Nicholas, 10, 40

Croker, Crofton, 68

Cromwell, 3, 75, 80

Cumberland, Bishop, 5

Dawes, Sir A. , 81

Dawes, Sir T. , 83

Devonshire, Christina, Countess of, 83

Doulton, 54

Dover House, 83

Duels, 84

Duvernay, Mademoiselle, 90

Dwight, John, 53

Eagle House, 21

Earl's Court Exhibition, 38

East End House, 49

Eelbrook Common, 49

Ekins, Dr. , 49

Elizabeth Free School, 66

Elizabeth, Queen, 35, 75, 77

Ellenborough House, 91

Elm Lodge, 77

Eridge House, 52

Evelyn, 14

Exeter House, 83

Fairfax, 75

Fairfax House, 80

Female Philanthropic Society, 7

Ferne, Mr. , 8

Fisher, Bishop, 5

Fisheries, 18

Fitzherbert, Mrs. , 49

Fitzjames, Bishop, 60

Fleetwood, 75

Francis, Sir Philip, 5

Free Library, Fulham, 51

Free Library, Hammersmith, 25

Free Library, Putney, 79

Friends' Meeting-House, 15

Fulham House, 53

Fulham Palace, 59

Fulham Pottery, 53

Gardeners' Lane, 79

Gibbon, Edward, 82

Godolphin Schools, 27

Goldhawk Road, 27

Gouge, Thomas, 13

Granard Lodge, 93

Grantham House, 83

Grindal, Bishop, 63

Grisi, Madame, 51

Grove House, 80, 90

Gurney, Sir R. , 26

Gwendolen Avenue, 93

Halfway House, 89

Halley, 5

Halliday, Sir Frederick, 5

Hammersmith and West Kensington Synagogue, 21

Hammersmith, boundaries of, 1

Hammersmith Cemetery, 39

Hammersmith Terrace, 18

Hannen, Lord, 5

Hartley, Dr. , 84

Harvey, Colonel Edmund, 50

Henry III. , 35

Highlands, 85

High Street, Putney, 79

Highwood, 88

Hook, Theodore, 58

Howard's Lane, 93

Howley, Bishop, 62

Hurlingham, 64

Iles, Dr. , 20

Impey, Elijah, 9

Ireton, 75

James I. , 35

Johnson, Joseph, 49

Jowett, Benjamin, 5

Keene, Charles, 5

Kelmscott House, 17

King's Theatre, 19

Kingston Road, 88

King Street, 24

Kitcat Club, 77

Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 16

Knolles, Sir T. , 69

Laburnum House, 76

Lacey, John, 75

Latymer, Edward, 6

Latymer Foundation School, 6

Latymer Schools, Upper, 18

Laud, Bishop, 60

Leander Club, 74

Lee, Bishop, 5

Leland, 5

Lillie Road, 44

Lily, 4

Lime Grove, 82

Linden House, 17

Little Wapping, 15

Lloyd, Bishop, 17

London Club, 74

Loutherbourgh, 18

Lower Grove House, 91

Lower Mall, 14

Lucy House, 12

Lytton, Sir E. Bulwer, 45, 59

Manchester, Duke of, 5

Manor House, Barnes, 91

Manresa House, 87

Marlborough, Duke of, 5

Marryat, Captain, 16, 41

Milton, 5

Monuments in Fulham Church, 56

Mordaunt, Viscount, 69

Morland, Sir S. , 14

Morris, William, 17

Moyle, Walter, 8

Moulinière House, 81

Mountain, Mrs. , 18

Mount Carmel Hermitage, 45

Mount Clare, 90

Mulgrave House, 64

Mulgrave, third Earl of, 8

Munster, Duchess of, 52

Munster House, 52

Munster Park Chapel, 52

Murphy, Arthur, 12, 18

Nevill, Sir Edward, 12

Normand House, 44

Northfield Square, 80

Old Ship, 17

Ollivant, Bishop, 5

Pallenswick, Manor of, 25

Park Lodge, 81

Parson's Green, 67

Payne of Pallenswick, 26

Pembroke, Earl of, 83

Pepys, 5

Perrers, Alice, 25

Peterborough House, 69

Pitt, William, 85

Point House, 76

Pollock, Sir Frederick, 5

Ponsonby Road, 87

Poor Sisters of Nazareth, 5

Pope, 49

Porteous, Bishop, 62

Portsmouth Road, 83

Powell's Almshouses, 54

Purser's Cross, 50

Putney Bridge, 72

Putney Heath, 83

Putney Hill, 81

Putney House, 91

Putney Palace, 74

Putney Park, 83

Putney Park Avenue, 92

Putney Park House, 92

Putney Park Lane, 92

Pryor's Bank, 58

Queen Elizabeth's Dairy, 77

Queen's Club, 38

Queen Street, 14

Radcliffe, Dr. , 16

Ranelagh, 76

Ravenscourt Park, 25

Ravensworth House, 48

Richardson, Samuel, 36, 68

Richmond Park, 89

Richmond, Sir W. B. , 17

Riverside House, 76

Robin Hood Gate, 88

Rocque, John, 48

Roehampton, 87

Roehampton House, 90

Roehampton Lane, 91

Roehampton Lodge, 91

Roehampton Polo Club, 91

Ronald, Sir Francis, 17

Rosamund's Bower, 68

Sandford Manor, 70

Sands End, 69

Shepherd's Bush, 28

Sherlock, Bishop, 61, 62

Shrewsbury, Earl of, 77

Sibbald, Sir J. , 41

Siddons, Mrs. , 85

Sion House, 21

Sisters of St. Katherine, 45

Smith, Sir T. , 69

Spring Gardens, 76

St. James's Home, 42

St. Joseph's School, 23

St. Mary's Catholic Orphanage, 20

St. Mary's Cemetery (R. C. ), 32

St. Mary's Training College, 22

St. Paul's School, 3

St. Paul's School (Girls), 21

St. Paul's National Schools, 13

Star and Garter Hotel, 75

Starch Green Road, 29

Stourton, Lord, 53

Strype, 5

Subiaco House, 91

Summerfield, 93

Sussex Lodge, 16

Swan Brewery, 48

Swinburne, 81

Syndercomb, Miles, 28

Tarnworth, John, 69

Temple, Bishop, 63

Terrick, Bishop, 62

Thames Club, 74

Thanet Lodge, 76

Thompson, James, 16

Tonson, Jacob, 77

Truro, Lord Chancellor, 5

Turner, 17

Union Workhouse, 39

Upper Mall, 15

Upper Richmond Road, 93

Vanbrugh, Sir John, 61

Wager, Sir Charles, 49

Walham Green, 46

Walker's Place, 79

Walsingham, Sir Francis, 77

Waste Land Almshouses, 29, 42

Waterloo Street, 14

Weltje Street, 17

West End Chapel, 24

West Kensington Park Chapel, 24

West Lodge, 77

West London Hospital, 19

White Lodge, 89

Wildcroft, 84

William Smith's Almshouses, 14

Wimbledon Common, 86

Windsor House, 76

Wolsey, Cardinal, 82

Worlidge, Thomas, 12

Wormholt Barns, 30

Wormwood Scrubs, 31

Wren, Sir Christopher, 61

THE END

BILLING AND SONS, LTD. , PRINTERS, GUILDFORD

 * * * * *

Transcriber's Notes

The following errors in the original text have been corrected:

Page 4: Charity Commissoners changed to Charity Commissioners

Page 21: stuccoed bnilding changed to stuccoed building

Page 43: to build almhouses changed to to build almshouses

Index: Page number for entry "Ekins, Dr. " added. 

The inconsistent hyphenation of "needle work" and "needle-work" and "BulwerLytton" and "Bulwer-Lytton" has been left as per the original. 

The use of "Moulinere House" in the main text and "Moulinière House" inthe index has also been left unchanged. 

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