EVERYMAN'S LIBRARY

664

TRAVEL & TOPOGRAPHY

 Everyman, I will go with thee, and be thy guide, In thy most need to go by thy side. 

FRANCES CALDERON DE LA BARCA, born in Edinburgh, 1804, the daughter ofWilliam Inglis. After her father's death she settled in America, where shemarried the Spanish diplomat, Don Angel Calderon de la Barca. Sheaccompanied him on his various appointments to Mexico, Washington, andfinally to Madrid, where she was created Marquesa de Calderon de la Barcaby Alfonso XII and died in 1882. 

FRANCES CALDERON DE LA BARCA

LIFE IN MEXICO

INTRODUCTION BY MANUEL ROMERO DE TERREROS MARQUES DE SAN FRANCISCO

First published 1843

INTRODUCTION

In the year 1843, two new books took the American public by storm: one wasPrescott's _History of the Conquest of Mexico_, and the other _Life inMexico_ by Madame Calderon de la Barca. William Hickling Prescott wasalready known as an able historian on account of his scholarly _Reign ofFerdinand and Isabella of Spain_ which had appeared four years before andelicited praise from all quarters; but his new work outran the former inthat the author had succeeded in depicting one of the most stirringepisodes of history with the grandeur of an epic and the interest of anovel. 

It was therefore natural that a book with Prescott's endorsement should befavourably received by the general public; but _Life in Mexico_immediately attained wide circulation on its own merits, and was receivedwith unbounded enthusiasm. Soon the slight veil that pretended to hide theauthor's name was drawn aside and Madame Calderon de la Barca becamefamous in literary and social circles. 

Frances Erskine Inglis was born in Edinburgh in the year 1804. Her father, William Inglis, belonged to a distinguished Scottish family, related tothe Earls of Buchan, and was a grandson of a gallant Colonel Gardiner whofell in the battle of Prestonpans, while her mother, a Miss Stern beforeher marriage, was a celebrated beauty of her time. 

Fanny, as Frances was familiarly called, was still very young when herfather found himself in financial difficulties and decided to retire withhis family to Normandy where living was supposed to be cheaper. ButWilliam Inglis died a few years later, and his widow determined to settlein America. In the United States Mrs. Inglis established a private schoolfirst in Boston, later in Staten Island, and finally in Baltimore, and herdaughter was a great help, for she immediately revealed herself as anexcellent teacher. Besides, Fanny became a great friend of Ticknor, Lowell, Longfellow, and especially of Prescott, who thought her "everlively and _spirituelle_. "

In 1836 a Special Diplomatic Mission from Spain arrived at Washington, andat its head came Don Angel Calderon de la Barca, a gentleman of highsocial standing and an accomplished man of letters, who, naturally enough, soon established literary relations with William Prescott, then at work onhis _History of the Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella_. In this connectionhe became acquainted with many of Prescott's friends, the Inglis ladiesamong others, and the result was that he fell in love with theaccomplished Fanny, and married her in 1838. Shortly afterwards Don Angelwas appointed Isabel II's Minister to Mexico, the first Spanish Envoy tothe young Republic that had formerly been the Kingdom of New Spain. Thenewly married couple, accordingly, started on their journey to Mexico, which was destined to be a long one, even for those days, for they leftNew York on October 27th and did not reach their destination until the26th of the following December. 

Calderon's mission to Mexico lasted somewhat more than two years, duringwhich time he and his wife, says Prescott, "lived much at their ease, " and"were regaled _en prince_. " In spite of Don Angel's delicate diplomaticduties and her own frequent social engagements and strenuous excursions, Fanny Inglis Calderon found time to write almost daily letters, most ofthem of considerable length, to relatives and friends. These lettersconstituted the basis of the present book when they were collected andpublished--with certain necessary omissions--simultaneously in London andBoston in 1843, under the title of _Life in Mexico during a Residence ofTwo Years in that Country_. The book was provided with a short butsubstantial Preface by Prescott. 

That same year saw Don Angel Calderon de la Barca transferred toWashington as Spanish Minister, a post in which he not only discharged hisdiplomatic duties with much ability, but also frequented the literarycircles and even found time to translate several works into Spanish. 

In 1853 Calderon was recalled to Spain by his government and arrived atMadrid on September 17th with his wife, who had recently become aCatholic. A year later, he was appointed Minister of State in the Cabinetof the Conde de San Luis, and thus became an actor in the troubled dramaof that period of Isabel II's reign. When finally the unpopularity of thegovernment culminated in a general rebellion, Calderon managed to escapethe unjust fury of the rabble by hiding first in the Austrian, and laterin the Danish Legation, until he was able to cross the frontier and takerefuge in France. The events that Madame Calderon had witnessed in Spainmoved her to write that entertaining book _The Attache in Madrid_, which, pretending to be a translation from the German, appeared in New York in1856. 

The Calderons were able to return to Spain after an absence of two years, but in 1861 Don Angel died at San Sebastian, just when he was expecting tomove to a small villa which was being built for him nearby in picturesqueZarauz. Hard upon this event Madame Calderon retired to a convent acrossthe Pyrenees, but shortly afterwards Queen Isabel asked her to come backand take charge of the education of her eldest daughter, the InfantaIsabel, a request which, though at first respectfully declined, wasfinally accepted by her. From that time on Madame Calderon became theconstant companion of the Infanta Isabel, until the latter's marriage tothe Count of Girgenti in 1868. She then returned to the United States, butonly for a comparatively short time, for as soon as Alfonso XII came tothe throne, Madame Calderon went back to Spain and was created by himMarquesa de Calderon de la Barca. Thenceforward she led a very quiet lifeuntil her death, in the Royal Palace of Madrid, on February 3rd, 1882. 

Any radical change in the form of government is liable to be accompaniedby disorders, and this is even more likely to be true in a country likeMexico, which has become famous for its frequent political troubles andhas been aptly called "a land of unrest. " In the eighteen-forties thecountry witnessed many plans, "pronunciamientos" and revolutions, whichcould not escape the vigilant mind of Madame Calderon, who often refers tothem with a spice of delicate satire and irony which is not unkindly. After the long period of peaceful if unexciting viceregal rule, thegovernment of the new republic had become the prey of political groups, headed by men who coveted the presidency chiefly impelled by a "vaultingambition" which, in most cases "overleapt itself. " Madame Calderon drewfaithful portraits of many of the politicians of those days, not stintingher praise to such men of honour as Bustamante, nor hiding her sympathytowards the much reviled Santa Anna. 

Naturally, as the wife of the Spanish Minister, she feels occasionallybound to dwell somewhat disparagingly upon the existing state of things, as compared with the excellences of the former viceregal regime. Thus, onvisiting the older cities and establishments, she lays stress on the greatbenefits that the Mother Country had bestowed on her Colonies, an opinionthat, she states, was shared by the most distinguished persons in Mexico, who missed the advantages of the days of yore: "I fear we live in aParadise Lost, " she exclaims, "which will not be regained in our days!"

But this does not mean to say that she withholds praise where praise isdue. On more than one occasion she extols the valour of a soldier, thetalent of a Minister like Cuevas, or the honesty and clearsightedness of apolitician like Gutierrez de Estrada; and when she refers to the rivalrythat arose between the different parties, she has unbounded praises forthe cadets of the Military School, for their patriotic conduct and theirloyalty to the legally established government. 

In Madame Calderon's time the Mexican upper classes were an extension, soto speak, of the old viceregal society. Only the very young had not seenthe Spanish flag flying over the public buildings or had not been more orless acquainted with the last viceroys. The presidential receptions of aBustamante or a Santa Anna in the National Palace, just as during theshort reign of Augustin I de Iturbide, were ablaze with brilliantuniforms, glittering decorations, fine dresses, and rich jewels, while atprivate parties the old family names and titles continued to be borne withthe prestige of former colonial days. 

On the other hand, the relations between lord and servant are faithfullyportrayed by Madame Calderon de la Barca. Speaking of life in a_hacienda_, she describes how the lady of the house sat at the piano, while the employees and servants performed the typical dances of thecountry for the benefit of guests and relatives, without suggesting anyidea of equality or disrespect, more or less in the fashion of the MiddleAges, when the lord and the lady of the manor sat at table with theirservants, though the latter remained rigorously below the salt. Withregard to the lower classes, Madame Calderon always sees the picturesqueside of things which she describes vividly and colourfully. 

It is to be regretted (particularly from a Mexican point of view) thatFanny Inglis, or her editor, should have thought it expedient only to givethe first and last letters of the names of the more prominent persons ofwhom she speaks, a system which makes it difficult for a reader of laterdays to identify them, except in one or two cases. Many were the intimatefriends of the Calderons, but especially the Conde de la Cortina, a well-known figure in society and in literary and scientific circles, theMarques and Marquesa de Vivanco, and the "Guera Rodriguez, " (the "FairRodriguez"), a celebrated beauty of her time, who is said to have beengreatly admired by no less a person than Alexander von Humboldt himself!

Naturally enough, Madame Calderon was a competent judge of her own sex andwas alert to the good qualities as well as to the foibles of the ladies ofMexico, whose excessive fondness for diamonds and, in some cases, tooshowy dresses elicit her mild criticism. 

Monastic life was one of the features of Mexico at that time. Most cities, large and small, were full of churches, monasteries, and convents; andMadame Calderon (who became a Catholic three years later) was not thenwell acquainted with the ceremonies and liturgy of the Church, andconsequently falls into many errors on the subject; but when she describesher visit to a convent and the ceremony of the veiling of a nun, shewrites some of her most picturesque and touching pages. 

Madame Calderon does not stint her admiration for the great buildings ofthe country, both civil and religious, though her descriptions betray onlytoo often the influence of the romantic age in which she lived. 

Beautiful indeed as is her description of a garden in Tulancingo, sherises to real eloquence before some of "Nature's pageants, " admiring asunset over the Monastery of San Fernando, walking under the shade of thecentennial trees of Chapultepec, or wandering within the gigantic Cavernsof Cacahuamilpa, the recollection of which, she says, "rests upon themind, like a marble dream, " and where an unfortunate traveller, yearsbefore, had lost his way and met a tragic death. 

Prescott's statement that Madame Calderon's letters were not intendedoriginally for publication seems hardly credible; but, on the other hand, there is no proof for the suggestion that she had the letters of MadameD'Aulnoy in mind. Be that as it may, the fact is that just as the FrenchCountess has left us a living picture of Spain in the late seventeenthcentury, in the same way the wife of the Spanish Minister drew a mostfaithful pen-portrait of the social, political, and even economic order, in Mexico in the early nineteenth. 

As to Madame Calderon de la Barca's personal appearance, since a portraitof her, which is said to exist in the possession of a relative, has neverbeen published, the reader is free to imagine that lively lady as it maybest suit his or her individual fancy. That she was clever, well-read, andan excellent judge of character, as well as a true lover of nature and akeen observer of manners and customs, is evident in her letters, whichconstitute by common consent a most entertaining and truly delectablenarrative, which even the lapse of more than a century has not been ableto mar. 

MANUEL ROMERO DE TERREROS, Marques de San Francisco. 

REFERENCES

_History of the Conquest of Mexico with the Life of the Conqueror HernandoCortes, and a view of the Ancient Mexican Civilization_. New York, Harper& Bros. , 1843. 

_Life in Mexico, During a Residence of Two Years in That Country_, byMadame Calderon de la Barca, with a Preface by W. H. Prescott, author ofThe History of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 1843. 

_The Attaché in Madrid; or, Sketches of the Court of Isabella II_, translated from the German, New York, 1856. 

_Prescott Unpublished Letters to Gayangos in the Library of the HispanicSociety of America_, edited with notes by Clara Louisa Penney, New York, 1927. 

CONTENTS

GLOSSARY

LETTER THE FIRST

Departure of the "Norma"--Last look of New York Bay--Fellow passengers--Contrary Winds--Deceitful Appearances--Sunset in Southern Latitudes--Seaspassed over by Columbus--Varied Occupations on Shipboard--Berry Islands--Bahama Banks--Evening in a Tropical Sea--L. E. L. --Pan of Matanzas--MorroCastle--Bay of Havana--Arrival--Handsome House in Havana--Sights andSounds

LETTER THE SECOND

Havana Aristocracy--Lucia di Lammermoor--La Rossi and Montresor--Brig-of-war--Countess de V---a--Dinner at H---a's--Southerly Winds--View from theBalcony--_Quinta_ of Count V---a--San Cristobal--Mass at San Felipe--ErardHarp--Dinner at General M---o's--A Dessert at Havana--Queen of Spain'sBirthday--Dinner at the Yntendencia--La Pantanelli--Theatre of Tacon--Railroad--Cure by Lightning--Shops--Ball at the Countess F---a's LastVisit--Souvenirs

LETTER THE THIRD

Departure in the Jason--Spanish Captain and Officers--Life on board a Man-of-War--"_Balances_"--Fishing--"_Le Petit Tambour_"--Cocoa-nuts--A_Norte_--Spanish Proverb--Peak of Orizava--Theory and Practice--_NorteChocolatero_--Contrary Winds--Chain of Mountains--Goleta

LETTER THE FOURTH

Distant View of Vera Cruz--Pilots--Boat from the City--Mutual Salutes--Approach to Vera Cruz--Crowd on the Wharf--House of Don Dionisio V---o--Guard of Honour--German Piano--Supper--Madonna--Aspect of the City--_Sopilotes_--Deliberations--General Guadalupe Victoria--Two-headed Eagle--Dilapidated Saint--Harp--Theatre--Doña Innocencia Martinez--Invitationfrom General Santa Anna

LETTER THE FIFTH

Departure from Vera Cruz--Sandhills--Oriental Scene--Manga de Clavo--General Santa Anna--Breakfast--Escort and Diligence--Santa Fe--PuenteNacional--Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward--Country in December--Don Miguel--First Impressions--Fruit--Plan del Rio--German Musicians--SleepingCaptain--Approach to Jalapa--Appearance of the City--Cofre de Perote--Flowers--House and Rock--Last View of Jalapa--Change of Scenery--SanMiguel de los Soldados--Perote-Striking Scene before Day-break--Non-arrival of Escort--Yankee Coachman Dispute--Departure--Company of Lancers--Alcalde--Breakfast at La Ventilla--Pulque--Double Escort--Crosses--Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper--Ojo de Agua-Arrival at Puebla-Dress of thePeasants--Christmas-eve-Inn-"_Nacimiento_"

LETTER THE SIXTH

Departure from Puebla--Chirimoyas--Rio Frio--Indian Game--Black Forest--Valley of Mexico--Recollections of Tenochtitlan--Mexican Officer--Reception--Scenery--Variety of Dresses--Cheers--Storm of Rain--Entry toMexico--Buenavista--House by Daylight--Sights from the Windows--Visits--Mexican Etiquette--Countess C---a--Flowers in December--Serenade--Patriotic Hymn

LETTER THE SEVENTH

Début in Mexico--Cathedral--Temple of the Aztecs--Congregation--Stone ofSacrifices--Palace--Importunate Léperos--Visit to the President--CountessC---a--Street-cries--Tortilleras--_Sartor Resartus_

LETTER THE EIGHTH

Ball in Preparation--Agreeable Family--Fine Voices--Theatre--Smoking-Castle of Chapultepec--Viceroy Galvez--Montezuma's Cypress--Vice-Queen--Valley of Mexico--New Year's Day--Opening of Congress--Visits from theDiplomatic Corps--Poblana Dress--"Función extraordinaria"--Theatre--Visitto the Cathedral of Guadalupe--Divine Painting--Bishop--Beggars--Mosquitoes Eggs

LETTER THE NINTH

Visits from Spaniards--Visit from the President--Disquisition--PoblanaDress--Bernardo the Matador--Bull-fight extraordinary--Plaza de Toros--Fireworks--Portrait of C---n--Fancy Ball--Dress-Costume of thePatronesses--Beauty in Mexico--Doctor's Visit--Cards of _faire part_--Marquesa de San Roman--Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony--Attempt atRobbery--Murder of a Consul--La Gúera Rodriguez--Dr. Plan--M. De Humboldt--Anecdote--Former Customs

LETTER THE TENTH

San Fernando--House of Perez de Galvez--A Removal--Size of the Houses--OldMonastery--View by Sunset--Evening Visits--Mexican Etiquette--A Night--view from the Azotea-Tacubaya--Magueys--Making of Pulque--Organos andNopal--Environs of Mexico--Miracle--Hacienda--View from the Countess C---a's House--Arzobispado--Anecdote--Comparative View of Beauty--Indians--Rancheritas--Mexican Cordiality--Masses for the Dead--San Agustin--Form ofInvitation--Death of a Senator--A Mistake

LETTER THE ELEVENTH

Calle de Tacuba--The Leap of Alvarado--The "Noche Triste"--Sale of aCurate's Goods--Padre Leon--Leprosy--Pictures--The Annunciation--TheAlameda--Paseo de Bucarelli--The Viga--Indians in Canoes--A Murder--ACountry Fête--Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino--The Jota Arragonesa--OldSoldiers

LETTER THE TWELFTH

The Viga during the Carnival--Variety of Equipages--The Millionaires--TheMonks--Masked Ball--An Alarming Sight--Medical Students--Dinner at thePrussian Minister's--Rides on Horseback--Indian Love of Flowers--SantaAnita--The Chinampas--Their Origin--Indians in Canoes--Song of "ElPalomo"--Fighting--The Great Lakes--The Drain of Huehuetoca--The GreatMarket of Tlatelolco

LETTER THE THIRTEENTH

Convent of San Joaquin--Mexico in the Morning--Tacuba--Carmelite Prior--Convent Garden--Hacienda of Los Morales--El Olivar--A _Huacamaya_--Humming-birds--Correspondence--Expected Consecration--Visit to theMineria--Botanic Garden--Arbol de las Manitas--The Museum--EquestrianStatue--Academy of Painting and Sculpture--Disappointment

LETTER THE FOURTEENTH

Palm Sunday--Holy Thursday--Variety of Costumes--San Francisco--SantaDomingo--Santa Teresa--Nuns--Stone Bust--The Academy--ReligiousProcession--Pilgrimage to the Churches--Santa Clara--Nun's Voice--Orange-trees and Rose-bushes--The Cathedral Illuminated--Our Saviour in Chains--Good Friday--The Great Square towards Evening--Dresses of Men, Women, andChildren--Approach of the Host--Judas--Great Procession--_Miserere_--TheSquare by Moonlight--A Lonely Walk--_Sabado de Gloria_--Ball inContemplation--Weekly Soirées--Embroidered Muslins--A Tertulia at Home

LETTER THE FIFTEENTH

Letter from the Archbishop--Visit to the "_Encarnación_"--Reception--Description--The Novices--Convent Supper--Picturesque Scene--Sonata on theOrgan--Attempt at Robbery--Alarms of the Household--Visit to San Agustin--Anonymous Letter--The Virgin _de los Remedios_--Visit to the Chapel--ThePadre--The Image--Anecdote of the Large Pearl--A Mine

LETTER THE SIXTEENTH

Mexico in May--Leave Mexico for Santiago--Coach of Charles X. --MexicanTravelling--General Aspect of the Country--Village of Santa Clara--Robbers' House--Temples of the Sun and Moon--San Juan--Mexican Posada--School-house--Skulls--Hard Fare--Travelling Dress--Sopayuca--MilitaryAdministrador--Santiago--Matadors and Picadors--Evenings in the Country--Dances--Mexican Songs--Cempoala--Plaza de Toros--Skill of the Horsemen--Omatusco--Accident--Tulansingo--Beautiful Garden--Mexican Dishes--Fruits--Horses--Games of Forfeits--Ranchera's Dress--Young Girls and theirAdmirers--Verses--Knowledge of Simple Medicine--Indian Baths--HiddenTreasures--Anecdote

LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH

Arrival at Tepenacasco--Lake with Wild-ducks--Ruined Hacienda--Sunset onthe Plains--Troop of Asses--Ride by Moonlight--Leave Tepenacasco--SanMiguel--Description--Thunderstorm--Guasco--Journey to Real del Monte--English Road--Scenery--Village of Real--Count de Regla--Director's House--English Breakfast--Visit to the Mines--Mining Speculations--Grand Scenery--Visit to Regla--The Cascade--The Storm--Loneliness--A Journey in Stormand Darkness--Return to Tepenacasco--Journey to Sopacuya--Narrow Escape--Famous Bull--Return to Mexico

LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH

English Ball--Dresses--Diamonds--Mineria--Arrival of the Pope's Bull--Consecration of the Archbishop--Foreign Ministers--Splendour of theCathedral--Description of the Ceremony

LETTER THE NINETEENTH

Mexican Servants--Anecdotes--Remedies--An unsafe Porter--Galopinas--TheReboso--The Sarape--Women-cooks--Foreign Servants--Characteristics ofMexican Servants--Servants' Wages--Nun of the Santa Teresa--Motives forTaking the Veil

LETTER THE TWENTIETH

The Convent Entry--Dialogue--A Chair in Church--Arrival of the Nun--Dress--José Maria--Crowd--Withdrawal of the Black Curtain--The Taking of theVeil--The Sermon--A Dead Body--Another Victim--Convent of the Encarnación--Attempt at a Hymn--Invitation--Morning Visit--The Nun and her Mother--Banquet--Taking Leave--Ceremony of the Veil-taking--A Beautiful Victim--The Last Look--Presentation to the Bishop--Reflections--Verses

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST

San Agustin--The Gambling Fête--The Beauties of the Village--The Road fromMexico--Entry to San Agustin--The Gambling Houses--San Antonio--ThePedregal--Last Day of the Fête--The Cockpit--The Boxes--The Cock-fight--Decorum--Comparisons--Dinner--Ball at Calvario--House of General Moran--View of the Gambling Tables--The Advocate--Ball at the Plaza de Gallos--Return to Mexico--Reflections--Conversation between two Ministers

LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND

Countess C---a--Gutierrez Estrada--Dinner at General Moran's--DowagerMarquesa--Fête at San Antonio--Approach of the Rainy Season--Diamonds andPlate--Great Ball--Night Traveling--Severe Storm--Chapter of Accidents--Corpus Christ!--Poblana Dress--Book Club--Ball--Humming Bird--FranciscanFriar--Missions to Old and New California--Zeal and Endurance of theMissionaries--Present Condition--Convent Gardener

LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD

The President--Yturbide--Visit from the Archbishop--Señor Canedo--GeneralAlmonte--Señor Cuevas--Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico--Of SeñorPosada--His Life--Mexican Charity--Wax Figures--Anecdote--ValuablePresent--Education--Comparison--Schools--Opportunities--Natural Talent--Annual--Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor--Families of theOld School--Morals--Indulgence--Manners--Love of Country--Colleges

LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH

Revolution in Mexico--Gomez Farias and General Urrea--The Federalists--ThePresident Imprisoned--Firing--Cannon--First News--Escape--Proclamation ofthe Government--Cannonading--Count C---a--Houses Deserted--Countess delV---e--Proclamation of the Federalists--Circular of the Federalists--Scarcity of Provisions--Bursting of a Shell--Refugees--Dr. Plan--YoungLady Shot--Gomez Farias--Rumours--Address of Gomez Farias--Balls andBullets--Visit from the ----- Minister--Arrival of Monsieur de -------Expected Attack--Skirmish--Appearance of the Street--San Cosme--General--The Count de B------ More Rumours--Suspense--Cannonading--GovernmentBulletin--Plan of the Rebels Defeated--Proclamation of the President--OfGeneral Valencia--Maternal Affection--Fresh Reports--Families leaving theCity--Letter from Santa Anna--Bustamante's Letter when imprisoned--Propositions--Refusal--Taoubaya--Archbishop--Fresh Proposals--Refusal--Second Letter from Santa Anna--Government Bulletin--Proclamations--Anawkward Mistake--The Archbishop visits the President--Conclusion of theRevolution--Government Newspapers--Circulars

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH

Plan of the Federalists--Letter from Farias--Signing of Articles--Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"--Conditions--Orders of General Valencia--Of the Governor--Address of General Valencia--Departure of our Guests--The_Cosmopolita_--State of the Palace and Streets--Bulletin of the Firing--Interior of Houses--Escape of Families--Conduct of the Troops--Countessdel V---e-- Santa Anna--Congress--Anecdote--Discussion in Congress--Leprosy

LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH

Visitors--Virgin de los Remedies--_Encarnación_--Fears of the Nuns--SantaTeresa--Rainy Season--Amusing Scene--"_Está a la disposición de V. _"--Mexican Sincerity--Texian Vessels--Fine Hair--Schoolmistress--Climate--ItsEffects--Nerves--_Tours de Force_--Anniversary--Speech--Paseo--San Angel--Tacubaya--Army of "The Three Guarantees"--Plan of Yguala--A Murder--IndianPoliteness--Drunkenness--Señor Canedo--Revolutions in Mexico--The Penon--The Baths--General ------- --Situation and View--Indian Family--Of theBoiling Springs--Capabilities--Solitude--Chapultepec--The _Desagravios_--Penitence at San Francisco--Discipline of the Men--Discourse of the Monk--Darkness and Horrors--Salmagundi

LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH

Fête-day--Friendly Hint--Precautions--General Tranquillity--President inSan Agustin--Revisit Museum--Ancient Manuscripts--Sculpture--Bronze Bust, etc. --Freshness after Rain--Ball at the French Minister's--Pamphlet--Gutierrez Estrada--His Character--Concealment--_Mexicalsingo_--Minister ofthe Treasury--Archbishop's Permission--Paintings--Mexican Painters--SantaTeresa--Description of the Interior--The Penitences--Tortures--Disciplines, etc. --Supper--Profane Ballads--Monasteries--San Francisco--Padre Prior--Soldiers and Friars

LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH

_día de Muertos_--Leave Mexico--_Herraderos_--San Cristobal--Tunas--Plazade Toros--Throwing the _Laso_--Accidents--Rustic Breakfast--Country Fare--Baked Meat--Indian Market--Buried Bull--Mountain--Solitary _Hacienda_--_Reyes_--Mules marked--Return--Queen of Spain's Birthday--DiplomaticDinner

LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH

Virgin of _Cavadonga_--Santo Domingo--Decorations and Music--Daguerreotype--Weekly Soirées--An Arrival--An Earthquake--Honourable Mr. ----- --Broken Furniture--_Dios_--Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe--Party tothe _Desierto_--_Itzcuintepotzotli_--Inn of _Guajimalco_--Ruined Convent--Its Origin--_Dejeune a la Fourchette_--Splendid Scenery--Vow to theVirgin--Musical Mass--Tacuba--Ride with the Prior

LETTER THE THIRTIETH

Christmas-day--Kalends and Mass--Amateur Performances--Solo--_Posadas_--Wandering of the Holy Family--_Nacimiento_--Crowded Party--French Cooks--Mexican Cook--State of Household--New Year's Day--Mass--Dirtiness of theChurches, etc. --Comparisons--Private Chapels--English Club--Preparationsfor Journey

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST

Leave Mexico--Cuernavaca--_Tierra Caliente_--_Atlacamulco_--Orange Groves--Sugar-cane--Annual Produce--Will of Cortes--Description--CoffeePlantation--Scorpions--List of Venomous Reptiles--_Aspansingo_--Doubts andDifficulties--A Decision

LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND

Leave _Atlacamulco_--Assemble by Starlight--Balmy Atmosphere--Flowers andTrees of the Tropics--The Formidable _Barrancas_--Breakfast under theTrees--Force of the Sun--_Meacatlan_--Hospitality--Profitable Estate--Leave Meacatlan--Beautiful Village--Musical Bells--Ride by Moonlight--Sugar Fires--Cocoyotla--Old Gentleman--Supper--Orange-trees and Cocoas--Delicious Water--Sugar Estates--_A Scorpion_--Set off for the Cave--Morning Ride--Dangerous Path

LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD

Cave of _Cacahuamilpa_--Superstition--Long-bearded Goat--Portal--Vestibule--Fantastic Forms--Breakfast--Pine Torches--Noble Hall--Stalactites and Stalagmites--Egyptian Pyramids--Double Gallery--WonderfulFormations--Corridor--Frozen Landscape--Amphitheatre--World in Chaos--Skeleton--Wax Lights--Hall of Angels--Return--Distant Light--IndianAlcalde--_Cautlamilpas_--Rancho--Return to Cocoyotla--Chapel--Meacatlan--Eclipse of the Moon--Benighted Travellers--Indian Village--_El Puente_--Return to _Atlacamulco_

LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH

Ride by Starlight--Fear of Robbers--Tropical Wild Flowers--Stout Escort--_Hautepec_--Hacienda of _Cocoyoc_--A Fire--Three Thousand Orange-trees--Coffee Mills, etc. --Variety of Tropical Fruits--Prodigality of Nature--_Casasano_--Celebrated Reservoir--Ride to Santa Clara--A Philosopher--AScorpion--Leave Santa Clara--Dangerous _Barranca_--_Colon_--AgreeableHouse--Civil _Administrador_--San Nicolas--Solitude--Franciscan Friar--Rainy Morning--Pink Turban--Arrival at _Atlisco_--Cypress--Department ofPuebla--Volcanoes--Doña Marina--Verses--_Popocatepetl_--Cholula--GreatPyramid--Arrival at Puebla

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH

Theatre--Portmanteaus--Visitors--Houses of Puebla--Fine Arts--Paseo--DonN. Ramos Arispe--Bishop--Cotton Factories--Don Esteban Antunano--Bank of_Avio_--United States Machinery--Accidents--Difficulties--Shipwrecks--Detentions--Wonderful Perseverance--"_La Constancia Mejicana_" Hospital--Prison--El Carmen--Paintings--Painted Floors--Angels--Cathedral--Gold andJewels--A Comedy--Bishop's Palace--Want of Masters

LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH

Concert--Diligence--Leave Puebla--Escort--View from the Cathedral Towers--Black Forest-History of the Crosses-Tales of Murder--An Alarm--Report of aSkirmish--Rio Frio--Law Concerning Robbers--Their _Moderation_-Return toMexico--Carnival Ball--Improvement in Dress

LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH

Distinguished Men--Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria--Anecdote--Señor Pedraza--Señor Gutierrez Estrada--Count Cortina--SeñorGorostiza--Don Carlos Bustamante--"Mornings in the Alameda"--Don AndrésQuintana Roo--Don Lucas Alaman--General Moran--General Almonte--SeñorCanedo--Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores--Doctor Valentin--DonFrancisco Tagle--Eight Revolutions

LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH

New Minister--San Angel--Profitable Pulque Estate--The Village--Surrounding Scenery--The Indians--The Padre--The Climate--Holy Week in theCountry--Dramatic Representations--Coyohuacan--The Pharisees--Image of theSaviour--Music and Dresses--Procession-Catholicism amongst the Indians--Strange Tradition--Paul the Fifth--Contrast between a Mexican and a NewEngland Village--Love of Fireworks--Ferdinand the Seventh--Military Ball--_Drapeaux_

LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan--Hernan Cortes--His Last Wishes--_PadresCamilas_-Old Church--Procession--Representation of the Taking of Christ--Curate's Sermon under the Trees--A Religious Drama--Good Friday--PortablePulpit--Heat--Booths--Religious Procession--Simon the Cyrenian--Costumes--Curate's Sermon--Second Discourse--Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate--Descent from the Cross--Procession of the Angels--Funeral Hymn--The_Pesame_ to the Virgin--Sermon--"Sweet Kitty Clover"--Music in Mexico--Anecdote

LETTER THE FORTIETH

Balloon--San Bartolo--Indian Women--A Beauty--Different Castes--Indians--Their Character, etc. --Those of Noble Race--Ball at the French Minister's--_Abecilla_--Danger of Walking Unattended--Shooting Party--A Murder--Robbery of a Farmhouse--Discomfited Robber Captain--The "_Zambos_"--Letters and Visitors--Country Life in Mexico

LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST

Gambling--Fête at San Agustin--Breakfast at San Antonio--Report--Cock-fight--Ladies--Private Gambling--A _Vaca_--The _Calvario_--Bonnets--Dinner--Evening Ball--Mingling of Classes--Copper Tables--Dresses andDecorations--Indian Bankers, Male and Female--Decorum--Habit--Holders ofBanks--Female Gambler--Robbery--Anecdote--Bet--_Casa de Moneda_--Leave SanAngel--Celebration--Address--Cross and Diploma--Reply--Presentation of aSword--Discourses and Addresses--Reflections

LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND

Italian Opera--Artists, Male and Female--Prima Donna--Lucia di Lammermoor--Some Disappointment--Second Representation--Improvement--Romeo andGiulietta--La Ricci--La Señora Cesari--The Mint--False Coining--Repetitionof Lucia--Procession by Night--A Spanish Beauty--Discriminating Audience--A little _too simple_--Gold Embroidery--Santiago--Pilgrims--Old IndianCustom--Soiree--Mexico by Moonlight--Mysterious Figure--Archbishop--Viceroy

LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD

Revillagigedo--The False Merchant and the Lady--The Viceroy, the UnjustSpaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces--Horrible Murder--Details--Oath--Country Family--The Spot of Blood--The Mother Unknowingly Denouncesher Son--Arrest of the _Three_--Confession--Execution--The Viceroyfulfils his Pledge--Paving of the Streets--Severity to the Monks--SolitaryDamsel--Box on the Ear--Pension--Morning Concert--New Minister-"Street ofthe Sad Indian"--Traditions--A Farewell Audience--Inscription on a Tomb

LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH

Agitation--Storm--Revolution--Manifesto--Resembling a Game of Chess--Position of the Pieces--Appearance of the City--Firing--State of Parties--Comparisons--"_Comicios_"--The People--Congress--Santa Anna--AmnestyOffered--Roaring of Cannon--Proclamation--Time to _Look at Home_--The Willof the Nation--Different Feelings--Judge's House Destroyed--The Mint inRequisition--Preparations--Cannonading--"_Los Enanos_"

LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH

Leave Mexico--Travelling Equipage--San Xavier--Fine Hacienda--Millionaires--Well-educated Ladies--Garden, etc. --Tlanapantla--Indian Hut--Mrs. Ward--Doña Margarita--The _Pronunciamiento_--False Step--Santa Annain Puebla--Neutrality--General Paredes--President in Tlanapantla--TiredTroops--Their March--Their Return--Curate's House--Murder--General Paredesin the Lecheria--President in Tlanapantla--A Meeting--Return of thePresident and his Troops--General Paredes and his Men--Santa Anna inTacubaya--A Junction--President in Mexico--_Allied Sovereigns_--Plan--Articles--President declares for Federalism--Resigns--Results--Hostilities--Capitulation--Triumphal Entry--_Te Deum_--New Ministry

LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH

Santa Monica--Solidity--Old Paintings--Anachronism--Babies and Nurses fromthe Cuna--Society--Funds-Plan--Indian Nurses--Carmelite Convent--MidnightWarning--Old Villages and Churches--Indian Bath--San Mateo--The Lecheria--Fertility--_Molino Viego_--Dulness--Religious Exercises--Return to Mexico--Mexican Hotel--New Generals--Disturbances--General Bustamante--Inconvenience--Abuses in the Name of Liberty--Verses--Independencecelebrated

LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH

Opera--Santa Anna and his Suite--His Appearance--_Belisario_--Solitary"_Viva_!"--Brilliant House--Military Dictatorship--_San_ _Juan de Dios_--Hospital _de Jesús_--_Cuna_--Old Woman and Baby--Different Apartments--Acordada--Junta--Female Prisoners--Chief Crime--_Travaux Forces_--Children--Male Prisoners--_Forçats_--Soldiers Gambling--Chapel--Confessional--Insane Hospital--Frenchmen--Different Kinds of Insanity--Kitchen--Dinner--Insane Monk--"Black Chamber"--Soldiers--College--SantaAnna's Leg--Projects--All Saints--Señora P---a--Leave-takings

LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH

Leave Mexico--Diligence--Indian Padre--Brandy-drinking Female--Bad Roads--Beautiful View--Escort--Good Breakfast--Crosses--Robber's Head--SelectParty--Lerma--Valley of Toluca--Hacienda--Toluca--Count de B---- and Mr. W------The Commandant--Gay Supper--Colonel Y------Day at Toluca--Journeyto _La Gabia_--Heat and Hunger--Pleasant Quarters--Princely Estate--ElPilar--A Zorillo--A Wolf--Long Journey--Tortillas--Count de B------Stateof Michoacán--Forest Scenery--_Trojes of Angangueo_--Comfort

LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH

Leave _Trojes_--Beautiful Territory--Tarrascan Indians--Taximaroa--Distressed Condition--An Improvement--Cold Morning--Querendaro--Fine Breedof Horses--San Bartolo--Produce--Country Proprietors--_Colear_--Ride toMorelia--Wild Ducks--Sunset--Cathedral Bell--Cuincho--Curates Morelos, Matamoros, and Hidalgo--Warm Baths--Handsome Girls--Starving Travellers--Lost Mules--Lancers--Night on a Heap of Straw--Mules Found--Tzintzontzan--King Calsonsi--Pascuaro--Kind Reception--Bishop--Robbers--Curu--Night in aBarn--Mountain--Uruapa--Enchanting Scenery--Pleasant Family--Jorulla

LETTER THE FIFTIETH

Indian Dresses--Saints--Music--Union of Tropical and European Vegetation--Old Customs--Falls of the Sararaqui--Silkworms--Indian Painting--BeautifulHeroine--Leave Uruapa--Tziracuaratiro--Talkative Indian--Alcalde's House--Pascuaro--Old Church--Mosaic Work--The Lake--The Cave--Fried Fish--RichIndians--Convent--Cuincho--Darkness--Morelia--Alameda--Cathedral--Silver--Waxworks--College--Wonderful Fleas

LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST

San Bartolo--Mass--Markets--Rancheros--San Andrés--Insanity--Rancho--Houseof Don Carlos Heimburger--Wild Scenery--German Songs--Las Millas--Leavetaking--Storm--Rainbow--El Pilar--La Gabia--Toluca--News--Copper_Pronunciamiento_--Return to Mexico--General Moran--Funeral Obsequies--NewTheatre--_Cock's Mass_--Santa Clara--Santa Fe Prisoners--New Year

LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND

Last Day in Mexico--Theatre--Santa Anna--French Minister's--Parting--Diligence--Last Look of Mexico--Fatigue--Robbers--Escort--SecondImpressions--Baths at Jalapa--Vera Cruz--Some Account of San Juan de Ulua--Siege of 1825--Siege of 1838--General Bustamante--Theatre--Of the NorthWinds

LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD

Sail in the Tyrian--Norther off Tampico--The Bar--The River Panuco--ThePilot--The Shore--Alligator--"_Paso de Doña Cecilia_"--Tampico--SpanishConsul's House--Society--Navigation--Banks of the Panuco--ExtraordinaryInoculation--The "_Glorieta_"--Leave Tampico--Furious Norther--Voyage--Arrival at Havana

LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH

Havana--The Carnival--The Elssler--La Angosta--_Ingenio_ of Count V---a--General Bustamante--Lord Morpeth--Leave Havana--Voyage in the Medway--OldFriends--Return to the United States

PREFACE

The present work is the result of observations made during a two years'residence in Mexico, by a lady, whose position there made her intimatelyacquainted with its society, and opened to her the best sources ofinformation in regard to whatever could interest an enlightened foreigner. It consists of letters written to the members of her own family, and, _really_, not intended originally--however incredible the assertion--forpublication. Feeling a regret that such rich stores of instruction andamusement, from which I have so much profited, myself, should be reservedfor the eyes of a few friends only, I strongly recommended that they shouldbe given to the world. This is now done, with a few such alterations andomissions as were necessary in a private correspondence; and although thework would derive more credit from the author's own name, than fromanything which I can say, yet as she declines prefixing it, I feel muchpleasure in making this statement by way of introduction to the public. 

WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT. 

Boston, December 20, 1842. 

GLOSSARY

OF

SPANISH OR MEXICAN WORDS WHICH OCCUR IN THE COURSE OF THE WORK, WHICH AREGENERALLY EXPLAINED WHEN FIRST USED, BUT WHICH BEING REPEATED, THE READERMIGHT FORGET AND WISH TO REFER TO. 

_Administrador_-Agent. _Alameda_-Public walk with trees. _Aquador_-Water-carrier. _Alacran_-Scorpion. _Anquera_-Coating of stamped gilt leather, edged with little bells, whichcovers the back of the horses. _Arriero_-Muleteer. _Arroba_-Spanish weight of twenty-five pounds. _Azotea_-The flat roof of a house. _Barranca_-Ravine. _Botica_-Apothecary's shop. _Calle_-Street. _Cargadores_-Men who carry loads. _Chinguirito_-Spirit made from sugar-cane. _Chile_-Hot peppers. _Compadre and Comadre_-Godfather and Godmother; names by which two personsaddress each other, who have held the same child at the baptismal font, orhave been sponsors together at a marriage, etc. _Canonigo_-Canon or prebendary. _Comicos_-Actors. _Camarista_-Lady of honour. _día de Anos_-Birthday. _Dulces_-Sweetmeats. _Díario_-Daily newspapers. _Frisones_-Large horses from the north. _Función_-Solemnity-festival. _Frijoles_-Brown beans. _Galopina_-Kitchen-girl. _Garbanzos_-Chick-peas _Cicer Arietinum_. _Gachupin_-Name given to the Spaniards in Mejico. _Garita_-City-gate. _Goleta_-Schooner. _Gentuza_-Rabble. _Honras_-Funeral honours. _Hacienda_-Country-place. _Ingenio de Azucar_-Sugar plantation. _Invalidos--Disabled soldiers. _Jarro_--Earthen jar. _Ladrones_--Robbers. _Léperos_--Beggars, low persons. _Litera_--Litter. _Monte Pio_--Office where money is lent on security. _Mezcal_--Brandy distilled from pulque. _Manga_--Cloak made of cloth, with a hole in the middle for putting thehead through. _Novios_--Betrothed persons. _Nuestro Amo_--Our Master, used in speaking of the Host. _Ojo de Agua_--Spring of water. _Portales_--Covered portico supported by columns. _Pulqueria_--Shop where pulque is sold. _Paseo_--Public walk. _Paso_--Pace, pacing. _Padrino_--Godfather. _Plaza_--Square. _Patio_--Courtyard. _Petate_--Matting. _Poblana_--Woman of Puebla. _Pronunciamiento_--A revolution in Mexico. _Pronunciados_--Those who revolt. _Rancho_--A farm. _Ranchero_--Farmer. _Rebozo_--A scarf that goes over the head. _Reja_--Iron grate. _Sopilote_--Species of carrion vulture. _Sarape_--A woollen blanket more or less fine, with a hole for the head togo through. _Traspaso_--Conveyance, transfer. _Tilma_--Indian cloak. _Tierra caliente_--The hot land. _Tertulia_--An evening party. _Toreador_--Bull-fighter. _Tortilla_--Species of thin cake. _Tortillera_--Woman who bakes tortillas. _Vaca_--Joint stock in gambling. _Vomito_--Name given to the yellow fever. _Venta_--Inn. 

LIFE IN MEXICO

LETTER THE FIRST

Departure of the Norma--Last look of New York Bay--Fellow-passengers--Contrary Winds--Deceitful Appearances--Sunset in Southern Latitudes--Seas passed over by Columbus--Varied Occupations on Shipboard--BerryIslands--Bahama Banks--Evening in a Tropical Sea--L. E. L. --Pan ofMatanzas--Morro Castle--Bay of Havana--Arrival--Handsome House inHavana--Sights and Sounds. 

PACKET SHIP "NORMA, "

Oct. 27th, 1839. 

This morning, at ten o'clock, we stepped on board the steamboat Hercules, destined to convey us to our packet with its musical name. The day wasfoggy and gloomy, as if refusing to be comforted, even by an occasionalsmile from the sun. All prognosticated that the Norma would not sailto-day, but "where there's a will, " etc. Several of our friends accompaniedus to the wharf; the Russian Minister, the Minister of Buenos Ayres, Mr. -----, who tried hard to look sentimental, and even brought tears intohis eyes by some curious process; Judge -----, Mr. -----, and others, fromwhom we were truly sorry to part. 

The Norma was anchored in one of the most beautiful points of the bay, andthe steamboat towed us five miles, until we had passed the Narrows. Thewind was contrary, but the day began to clear up, and the sun to scatterthe watery clouds. 

Still there is nothing so sad as a retreating view. It is as if time werevisibly in motion; and as here we had to part from -----, we could onlydistinguish, as through a misty veil, the beauties of the bay; the shorescovered to the water's edge with trees rich in their autumnal colouring;the white houses on Staten Island--the whole gradually growing fainter, till, like a dream, they faded away. 

The pilot has left us, breaking our last link with the land. We still seethe mountains of Neversink, and the lighthouse of Sandy Hook. The sun issetting, and in a few minutes we must take our leave, probably for years, of places long familiar to us. 

Our fellow-passengers do not appear very remarkable. There is MadameA----, returning from being prima donna in Mexico, in a packet called afterthe opera in which she was there a favourite, with her husband SeñorV---- and her child. There is M. B---- with moustaches like a bird's nest;a pretty widow in deep affliction, at least in deep mourning; a maiden ladygoing out as a governess, and every variety of Spaniard and Havanero. Sonow we are alone, C---n and I, and my French femme-de-chambre, with her airof Dowager Duchess, and moreover sea-sick. 

28th. --When I said I liked a sea life, I did not mean to be understood asliking a merchant ship, with an airless cabin, and with every variety ofdisagreeable odour. As a French woman on board, with the air of anafflicted porpoise, and with more truth than elegance, expresses it: "Toutdevient puant, même l'eau-de-cologne. "

The wind is still contrary, and the Norma, beating up and down, makes butlittle way. We have gone seventy-four miles, and of these advanced butforty. Every one being sick to-day, the deck is nearly deserted. The mostinteresting object I have discovered on board is a pretty little deaf anddumb girl, very lively and with an intelligent face, who has been teachingme to speak on my fingers. The infant heir of the house of ----- has shownhis good taste by passing the day in squalling. M. B----, pale, dirty, andmuch resembling a brigand out of employ, has traversed the deck with uneasyfootsteps and a cigar appearing from out his moustaches, like a light in atangled forest, or a jack-o'-lantern in a marshy thicket. A fat Spaniardhas been discoursing upon the glories of olla podrida. _Au reste_, we areslowly pursuing our way, and at this rate might reach Cuba in three months. 

And the stars are shining, quiet and silvery. All without is soft andbeautiful, and no doubt the Norma herself looks all in unison with thescene, balancing herself like a lazy swan, white and graciously. So it iswithout, and within, there is miserable sea-sickness, bilge-water, and allthe unavoidable disagreeables of a small packet. 

31st. --Three days have passed without anything worthy of notice havingoccurred, except that we already feel the difference of temperature. Thepassengers are still enduring sea-sickness in all its phases. 

This morning opened with an angry dispute between two of the gentlemen, onthe subject of Cuban lotteries, and they ended by applying to each otherepithets which, however much they might be deserved, were certainly ratherstrong; but by dinner time, they were amicably engaged in concoctingtogether an enormous tureen of _gaspachos_, a sort of salad, composed ofbread, oil, vinegar, sliced onion and garlic--and the fattest one declaresthat in warm weather, a dish of _gaspachos_, with plenty of garlic in it, makes him feel as fresh as a rose. He must indeed be a perfect bouquet. 

The opening of morning is dramatic in our narrow cabin. About twenty voicesin Spanish, German, Italian, and broken English, strike up by degrees. Froma neighbouring state room, _Nid d'oiseau_ puts forth his head. "Stooar! atoomlar! here is no vater!" "Comin, sir, comin. " "_Caramba!_ Stooard!""Comin, sir, comin!" "Stuart? vasser und toel!" "Here, sir. " "Amigo! how isthe wind?" (This is the waking up of el Señor Ministro, putting his headhalf suffocated out of his berth. ) "Oh steward! steward!" "Yes, miss, ""Come here, and look at _this_!" "I'll fix it, miss, "--etc. 

1st November. --A fair wind after a stifling night, and strong hopes ofseeing the Bahama Banks on Sunday. Most people are now gradually ascendingfrom the lower regions, and dragging themselves on deck with pale anddejected countenances. Madame A---- has such a sweet-toned voice inspeaking, especially in her accents of her _bella Italia_, that it isrefreshing to listen to her. I have passed all day in reading, after adesultory fashion, "Les Enfants d'Edouard, " by Casimir Delavigne, Washington Irving, D'Israeli's "Curiosities of Literature, " etc. ; and it israther singular that while there is a very tolerable supply of English andFrench books here, I see but one or two odd volumes in Spanish, althoughthese packets are constantly filled with people of that nation, going andcoming. Is it that they do not care for reading, or that less attention ispaid to them than to the French or American passengers? One would thinkCervantes, Lope de Vega, Calderon, or Moratin, better worth buying thanmany commonplace novels which I find here. 

3rd. --Yesterday the wind blew soft as on a summer morning. A land-bird flewinto the ship. To-day the wind has veered round, but the weather continuescharming. The sea is covered with multitudes of small flying-fish. Aninfantile water-spout appeared, and died in its birth. Mr. -----, theconsul, has been giving me an account of the agreeable society in theSandwich Islands! A magnificent sunset, the sight of which compensates forall the inconveniences of the voyage. The sky was covered with black cloudslined with silver, and surrounded by every variety of colour; deep blue, fleecy, rose, violet, and orange. The heavens are now thickly studded withstars, numbers shooting across the blue expanse like messengers of light, glancing and disappearing as if extinguished. 

It is well to read the History of Columbus at sea, but especially in thesewaters, where he wandered in suspense, high-wrought expectation, and firmfaith; and to watch the signs which the noble mariner observed in theselatitudes; the soft serenity of the breezes, the clear blue of the heavens, the brilliancy and number of the stars, the sea-weeds of the gulf, whichalways drift in the direction of the wind, the little land-birds that comelike harbingers of good tidings, the frequency of the shooting stars, andthe multitude of flying-fish. 

As the shades of evening close around, and the tropical sky glitters withthe light of innumerable stars, imagination transports us back to thatcentury which stands out in bold relief amidst other ages rolling bycomparatively undistinguished, and we see as in a vision the Discoverer ofa World, standing on the deck of his caravel, as it bounded over theunknown and mysterious waste of waters, his vigilant eyes fixed on thewest, like a Persian intently watching the rising of his god; though hisstar was to arise from whence the day-god sets. We see him bending his gazeon the first dark line that separated the watery sea from the blue of theheavens, striving to penetrate the gloom of night, yet waiting with patientfaith until the dawn of day should bring the long-wished for shores insight. 

6th. --For three days, three very long and uncomfortable days, the wind, with surprising constancy, has continued to blow dead ahead. In ancientdays, what altars might have smoked to Aeolus! Now, except in the increasedpuffing of consolatory cigar-smoke, no propitiatory offerings are made tounseen powers. There are indeed many mourning signs amongst the passengers. Every one has tied up his head in an angry-looking silken bandana, drawnover his nose with a dogged air. Beards are unshaven, a black stubblecovering the lemon-coloured countenance, which occasionally bears a look ofsulky defiance, as if its owner were, like Juliet, "past hope, past cure, past help. "

7th. --This morning the monotony of fine weather was relieved by a heartysquall, accompanied by torrents of rain, much thunder, and forkedlightning. The ship reeled to and fro like a drunken man, and thepassengers, as usual in such cases, performed various involuntaryevolutions, cutting right angles, sliding, spinning round, and rollingover, as if Oberon's magic horn were playing an occasional blast amidst theroaring winds; whilst the stewards alone, like Horace's good man, walkedserene amidst the wreck of crockery and the fall of plates. Driven from ourstronghold on deck, indiscriminately crammed in below like figs in a drum;"weltering, " as Carlyle has it, "like an Egyptian pitcher of tamed vipers, "the cabin windows all shut in, we tried to take it coolly, in spite of thesuffocating heat. 

There is a child on board who is certainly possessed, not by a wittymalicious demon, a diable boiteux, but by a teasing, stupid, wicked imp, which inspires him with the desire of tormenting everything human thatcomes within his reach. Should he escape being thrown overboard, it willshow a wonderful degree of forbearance on the part of the passengers. 

8th. --The weather is perfect, but the wind inexorable; and the passengers, with their heads tied up, look more gloomy than ever. Some sit dejected incorners, and some quarrel with their neighbours, thus finding asafety-valve by which their wrath may escape. 

9th. --There is no change in the wind, yet the gentlemen have all brightenedup, taken off their handkerchiefs and shaved, as if ashamed of their sixdays' impatience, and making up their minds to a sea-life. This morning wesaw land; a long, low ridge of hills on the island of Eleuthera, where theymake salt, and where there are many negroes. Neither salt nor negroesvisible to the naked eye; nothing but the gray outline of the hills, melting into the sea and sky; and having tacked about all day, we foundourselves in the evening precisely opposite to this same island. There areJob's comforters on board, who assure us that they have been thirty-sixdays between New York and la "joya mas preciosa de la corona de Espana. "[1]

[Footnote 1: The most precious jewel in the Spanish crown, the name givento Cuba. ]

For my part, I feel no impatience, having rather a dislike to changing myposition when tolerable, and the air is so fresh and laden with balm, thatit seems to blow over some paradise of sweets, some land of fragrantspices. The sea also is a mirror, and I have read Marryat's "Pirate" forthe first time. 

Thus then we stand at eight o'clock, P. M. ; wind ahead, and little of it, performing a zigzag march between Eleuthera and Abaco. On deck, the prettywidow lies in an easy chair, surrounded by her countrymen, who discourseabout sugar, molasses, chocolate, and other local topics, together with therelative merits of Cuba as compared with the rest of the known world. Madame A---- is studying her part of Elizabetta in the opera of RobertoDevereux, which she is to bring out in Havana, but the creaking of theNorma is sadly at variance with harmony. A pale German youth, indressing-gown and slippers, is studying Schiller. An ingenious youngster iscarefully conning a well-thumbed note, which looks like a milliner's girl'slast billet-doux. The little _possédé_ is burning brown paper within aninch of the curtains of a state-room, while the steward is dragging it fromhim. Others are gradually dropping into their berths, like ripe nuts from atree. Thus are we all pursuing our vocations. 

9th. --Wind dead ahead! I console myself with Cinq-Mars and Jacob Faithful. But the weather is lovely. A young moon in her first quarter, like a queenin her minority, glitters like a crescent on the brow of night. 

Towards evening the long wished for lighthouse of Abaco (built by theEnglish) showed her charitable and revolving radiance. But our ship, Penelope-like, undoes by night what she has performed by day, and hercourse is backward and crabbish. A delicious smell of violets is blowingfrom the land. 

10th. --A fair wind. The good tidings communicated by the A----, _touterayonnante de joie_. A fair wind and a bright blue sea, cool and refreshingbreezes, the waves sparkling, and the ship going gallantly over the waters. So far, our voyage may have been tedious, but the most determined landsmanmust allow that the weather has been charming. 

Sunday at sea; and though no bells are tolling, and no hymns are chanted, the blue sky above and the blue ocean beneath us, form one vast temple, where, since the foundations of the earth and sea were laid, _Day unto dayuttereth speech, and night unto night showeth knowledge_. 

This morning we neared the Berry Islands, unproductive and rocky, as thegeography books would say. One of these islands belongs to a coloured man, who bought it for fifty dollars--a cheaply-purchased sovereignty. He, hiswife and children, with their _negro slaves_! live there, and cultivatevegetables to sell at New York, or to the different ships that pass thatway. Had the wind been favourable, they would probably have sent us out aboat with fresh vegetables, fish, and fruit, which would have been veryacceptable. We saw, not far from the shore, the wreck of a two-mastedvessel; sad sight to those who pass over the same waters to see

 "A brave vessel, Who had, no doubt, some noble creatures in her, Dashed all to pieces!"

Who had, at least, some of God's creatures in her. Anything but that! I amlike Gonzalo, and "would fain die a dry death. "

We are now on the Bahama Banks, the water very clear and blue, with acreamy froth, looking as if it flowed over pearls and turquoises. AnEnglish schooner man-of-war (a _boy_-of-war in size) made all sail towardsus, doubtless hoping we were a slaver; but, on putting us to the test ofhis spy-glass, the captain, we presume, perceived that the general tinge ofcountenance was lemon rather than negro, and so abandoned his pursuit. 

This evening on the Banks. It would be difficult to imagine a more placidand lovely scene. Everything perfectly calm, all sail set, and the heavensbecoming gradually sprinkled with silver stars. The sky blue, and without acloud, except where the sun has just set, the last crimson point sinking inthe calm sea and leaving a long retinue of rainbow-coloured clouds, deepcrimson tinged with bright silver, and melting away into gray, pale vapour. 

On goes the vessel, stately and swanlike; the water of the same turquoiseblue, covered with a light pearly froth, and so clear that we see the largesponges at the bottom. Every minute they heave the lead. "By the markthree. " "By the mark three, less a quarter. " "By the mark twain and ahalf, " (fifteen feet, the vessel drawing thirteen, ) two feet between us andthe bottom. The sailor sings it out like the first line of a hymn in shortmetre, doled out by the parish clerk. I wish Madame A---- were singing itinstead of he. "By the mark three, less a quarter. " To this tune, the onlysound breaking the stillness of the night, I dropped to sleep. The captainpassed the night anxiously, now looking out for lights on the Banks, now atthe helm, or himself sounding the lead:

 "For some must watch whilst others sleep; Thus wags the world away. "

11th. --Beautiful morning, and fair wind. About eight we left the Banks. Just then we observed, that the sailor who sounded, having sung out five, then six, then in a few minutes seven, suddenly found no bottom, as if wehad fallen off all at once from the brink of the Bank into an abyss. 

A fellow-captain, and passenger of our captain's, told me this morning, that he spoke the ship which carried out Governor and Mrs. McLean toCape-Coast Castle--the unfortunate L. E. L. It does not seem to me at allastonishing that the remedies which she took in England without injury, should have proved fatal to her in that wretched climate. 

We have been accompanied all the morning by a fine large ship, going fullsail, the Orleans, Captain Sears, bound for New Orleans. . . . A longsemicircular line of black rocks in sight; some of a round form, one ofwhich is called the Death's Head; another of the shape of a turtle, andsome two or three miles long. At the extremity of one of these the Englishare building a lighthouse. 

12th. --We are opposite the Pan of Matanzas, about sixty miles from Havana. Impatience becomes general, but the breeze rocks up and down, and we gainlittle. This day, like all last days on board, has been remarkably tedious, though the country gradually becomes more interesting. There is a universalbrushing-up amongst the passengers; some shaving, some with their headsplunged into tubs of cold water. So may have appeared Noah's ark, when thedove did not return, and the passengers prepared for _terra firma_, after aforty days' voyage. Our Mount Ararat was the Morro Castle, which, dark andfrowning, presented itself to our eyes, at six o'clock, P. M. 

Nothing can be more striking than the first appearance of this fortress, starting up from the solid rock, with its towers and battlements, whilehere, to remind us of our latitude, we see a few feathery cocoas growingamidst the herbage that covers the banks near the castle. By its side, covering a considerable extent of ground, is the fortress called the_Cabana_, painted rose-colour, with the angles of its bastions white. 

But there is too much to look at now. I must finish my letter in Havana. 

HAVANA, 13th November. 

Last evening, as we entered the beautiful bay, everything struck us asstrange and picturesque. The soldiers of the garrison, the prison built byGeneral Tacon, the irregular houses with their fronts painted red or paleblue, and with the cool but uninhabited look produced by the absence ofglass windows; the merchant ships and large men-of-war; vessels from everyport in the commercial world, the little boats gliding amongst them withtheir snow-white sails, the negroes on the wharf--nothing European. Theheat was great, that of a July day, without any freshness in the air. 

As we approached the wharf the noise and bustle increased. The passengersall crowded upon deck, and we had scarcely anchored, when various littleboats were seen making for the Norma. First boat brought an officer withthe salutations of the Captain-General to his Excellency, with every politeoffer of service; second boat brought the Administrator of the Yntendente(the Count de Villa Nueva), with the same civilities; the third, the masterof the house where we now are, and whence I indite these facts; the fourth, the Italian Opera, which rushed simultaneously into the arms of the A---i;the fifth, prosaic custom-house officers; the sixth, a Havana count andmarquis; the seventh, the family of General M---o. Finally, we were hoistedover the ship's side in a chair, into the government boat, and rowed to theshore. As it was rather dark when we arrived, and we were driven to ourdestination in a volante, we did not see much of the city. We could butobserve that the streets were narrow, the houses irregular, most peopleblack, and the volante, an amusing-looking vehicle, looking behind like ablack insect with high shoulders, and with a little black postilion on ahorse or mule, with an enormous pair of boots and a fancy uniform. 

The house in which, by the hospitality of the H---a family we areinstalled, has from its windows, which front the bay, the most varied andinteresting view imaginable. As it is the first house, Spanish fashion, which I have entered, I must describe it to you before I sleep. The houseforms a great square, and you enter the court, round which are the offices, the rooms for the negroes, coal-house, bath-room, etc. , and in the middleof which stand the volantes. Proceed upstairs, and enter a large gallerywhich runs all round the house. Pass into the _Sala_, a large coolapartment, with marble floor and tables, and _chaise-longues_ with elasticcushions, chairs, and arm-chairs of cane. A drapery of white muslin andblue silk divides this from a second and smaller drawing-room, now servingas my dressing-room, and beautifully fitted up, with Gothic toilet-table, inlaid mahogany bureau, marble centre and side-tables, fine mirrors, canesofas and chairs, green and gold paper. A drapery of white muslin and rose-coloured silk divides this from a bedroom, also fitted up with all mannerof elegances. French beds with blue silk coverlids and clear mosquitocurtains, and fine lace. A drapery divides this on one side from thegallery; and this room opens into others which run all round the house. Thefloors are marble or stucco--the roofs beams of pale blue wood placedtransversely, and the whole has an air of agreeable coolness. Everything ishandsome without being gaudy, and admirably adapted for the climate. Thesleeping apartments have no windows, and are dark and cool, while thedrawing-rooms have large windows down to the floor, with green shutterskept closed till the evening. 

The mosquitoes have now commenced their evening song, a signal that it istime to put out the lights. The moon is shining on the bay, and a faintsound of military music is heard in the distance, while the sea moans witha sad but not unpleasing monotony. To all these sounds I retire to rest. 

LETTER THE SECOND

Havana Aristocracy--"Lucia de Lammermoor"--La Rossi and Montresor--Brig-of-war--Countess de V---a--Dinner at H---a's--Southerly Winds--View fromthe Balcony--_Quinta_ of Count V---a--San Cristobal--Mass at San Felipe--Erard Harp--Dinner at General M---o's--A Dessert at Havana--Queen ofSpain's Birthday--Dinner at the Yntendencia--La Pantanelli--Theatre ofTacon--Railroad--Cure by Lightning--Shops--Ball at the Countess F---a's--Last Visit--Souvenirs. 

15th. --We expected hospitality and a good reception, but certainly all ourexpectations have been surpassed, and the last few days have been spent insuch a round of festivity, that not a moment has been left for writing. Athome we have held a levee to all that is most distinguished in Havana. Counts, marquesses, and generals, with stars and crosses, have poured inand poured out ever since our arrival. I do not pretend to form anyjudgment of Havana. We have seen it too much _en beau_. 

Last evening we found time to go to the theatre. The opera was "Lucia deLammermoor. " The _prima donna_, La Rossi, has a voice of much sweetness, sings correctly and with taste, is graceful in her movements, but sadlydeficient in strength. Still she suits the character represented, and comesexactly up to my idea of poor Lucy, devoted and broken-hearted, physicallyand morally weak. Though the story is altered, and the interest weakened, how graceful the music is! how lovely and full of melody! The orchestra isgood, and composed of blacks and whites, like the notes of a piano, mingledin harmonious confusion. 

The theatre is remarkably pretty and airy, and the pit struck us as beingparticularly clean and respectable. All the seats are red leatherarm-chairs, and all occupied by well-dressed people. 

At the end of the first act, we went round to the Countess F---a's box, toreturn a visit which she had made me in the morning. We found her extremelyagreeable and full of intelligence, also with a very decided air offashion. She was dressed in fawn-coloured satin, with large pearls. At theend of the second act, Lucia was taken ill, her last aria missed out, andher monument driven on the stage without further ceremony. Montresor, theRavenswood of the piece, came in, sung, and stabbed himself with immenseenthusiasm. It is a pity that his voice is deserting him, while his tasteand feeling remain. The house has altogether a French look. The boxes areprivate--that is, the property of individuals, but are not shut in, whichin this climate would be suffocating. We passed out through a long file ofsoldiers. The sudden transition from Yankee land to this military Spanishnegro-land is _dreamy_. 

The General de la Marina (_Anglice_, admiral of the station) called somedays ago, and informed us that there is a brig of war destined to convey usto Vera Cruz. 

Amongst the ladies who have called on me, I find none more charming thanthe Countess de V---a. Her voice is agreeable, her manners cordial andeasy, her expression beautiful from goodness, with animated eyes and fineteeth, her dress quiet and rich. She is universally beloved here. Ireceived from her, nearly every morning, a bouquet of the loveliest flowersfrom her quinta--roses, carnations, heliotrope, etc. The dinner at H---a'sto-day was a perfect feast. I sat between the Count de F---a and the Countde S---- V----, a millionaire. Everything was served in French white andgold porcelain, which looks particularly cool and pretty in this climate. The Count de P---r was there and his brother; the latter a gentlemanly andintelligent man, with a great taste for music, and whose daughter is afirst-rate singer and a charming person. After dinner we rose, according tocustom, and went into an adjoining room while they arranged the dessert, consisting of every imaginable and unimaginable sweetmeat, with fruit, ices, etc. The fruits I have not yet learned to like. They are certainlywonderful and delicious productions of nature; but to eat eggs and custardsand butter off the trees, seems unnatural. 

The heat to-day is terrible; with a suffocating south wind blowing, andwere the houses not built as they are, would be unbearable. The dinner isserved in the gallery, which is spacious and cool. 

After dinner, Señor Don P---o H---a rose, and, addressing C---n, pronounceda poetical impromptu, commemorating the late victory of Espartero, andcongratulating C---n on his mission to the Mexican republic. We thenadjourned to the balcony, where the air was delightful, a cool eveningbreeze having suddenly sprung up. A large ship, full sail, and variousbarks, passed the View From the Balcony Morro. There were negroes with barelegs walking on the wall, carrying parcels, etc. ; volantes passing by withtheir black-eyed occupants, in full dress, short sleeves, and flowers intheir hair; well-dressed, martial-looking Spanish soldiers marching by, andmaking tolerably free remarks on the ladies in the volantes. . . . We had avisit from the Captain-General. 

In the evening we went out to see the Countess de V---a, at her prettyquinta, a short way out of town, and walked in the garden by moonlight, amongst flowers and fountains. The little count is already one of thechamberlains to the Queen, and a diamond key has been sent him by QueenChristina in token of her approbation of his father's services. Thesecountry retreats are delightful after the narrow streets and impure air ofthe city. . . . We saw there a good engraving of Queen Victoria, with theDuchess of Sutherland and Lady Normanby. 

17th. --Yesterday we went to see the procession of the patron saint, SanCristobal, from the balconies of the Yntendencia. It is a fine spaciousbuilding, and, together with the Captain-General's palace, stands in thePlaza de Armas, which was crowded with negroes and negresses, all dressedin white, with white muslin and blonde mantillas, framing and showing offtheir dusky physiognomies. 

Two regiments, with excellent bands of music, conducted the procession, composed of monks and priests. San Cristobal, a large figure with thickgold legs, surrounded by gold angels with gold wings, was carried by to themusic of "_Suoni la tromba_, " to which were adapted the words of a hymn inpraise of Liberty. 

We attended mass in the morning in the church of San Felipe, and entered, preceded, according to custom, by a little negro footman carrying a pieceof carpet. There were few people in church, but the grouping waspicturesque. The black faces of the negresses, with their white mantillasand white satin shoes; the black silk dresses and black lace mantillas ofthe Havana ladies, with their white faces and black eyes, and littleliveried negroes standing behind them; the officers, music, andlong-bearded priests--all were very effective. 

Found, on my return, an excellent Erard harp, sent me by the Marquesa deA---s, a pretty woman and female Croesus. 

A splendid entertainment was given us to-day by General M---o. His house islarge and cool; the dinner, as usual, in the gallery; and although therewere ninety-seven guests, and as many negroes in waiting, the heat was notoppressive. The jewels of the ladies were superb, especially the diamondsof the M---- family; sprays, necklaces, earrings, really beautiful. TheMarquesa de A---- wore a set of emeralds the size of small eggs. She had apretty, graceful-looking daughter with her, with beautiful eyes. Even themen were well sprinkled with diamonds and rubies. 

The dessert, from variety and quantity, was a real curiosity. Immense vasesand candelabras of alabaster were placed at different distances on thetable, and hundreds of porcelain dishes were filled with sweetmeats andfruits-sweetmeats of every description, from the little meringue called"mouthful for a queen, " to the blancmanger made of supreme de volaille andmilk. 

After dinner our health was drank, and another poetical address pronounced. The evening concluded with music and the Havana country-dances. 

20th. --Yesterday being the Queen of Spain's birthday, a dinner was given tous at the Yntendencia. The house in size is a palace, and the apartmentsinnumerable. The dinner very elegant, and the dessert arranged in anotherroom, a curiosity as usual for profusion and variety. Her Majesty's healthwas proposed by Don B---o H---a, and so well-timed, that all the guns ofthe forts fired a salute, it being sunset, just as the toast was concluded, which was drank with real enthusiasm and hearty goodwill. According toSpanish custom, the aristocracy generally _se tutoient_, and call eachother by their Christian names; indeed, they are almost all connected byinter-marriages. You may guess at an inferior in rank, only by theirincreased respect towards him. 

We stood on the balcony in the evening. The scene was beautiful, thetemperature rather warm, yet delicious from the softness of the breeze. Themoon rose so bright that she seemed like the sun shining through a silveryveil. Groups of figures were sauntering about in the square, under thetrees, and two bands having stationed themselves with lamps and music, played alternately pieces from Mozart and Bellini. We regretted leaving sodelightful a scene for the theatre, where we arrived in time to hear LaPantanelli sing an aria, dressed in helmet and Theatre of Tacon tunic, andto see La Jota Arragonesa danced by two handsome Spanish girls in goodstyle. 

One evening we went to the theatre of Tacon, to the Captain-General's box. It is certainly a splendid house, large, airy, and handsome. The play wasthe "Campanero de San Pablo, " which, though generally liked, appears to mea complicated and unnatural composition, with one or two interestingscenes. The best actor was he who represented the blind man. The chiefactress is an overgrown dame, all fat and dimples, who kept up a constantsobbing and heaving of her chest, yet never getting rid of an eternal smirkupon her face. A bolero, danced afterwards by two Spanish damsels in blackand silver, was very refreshing. 

23rd. --To-morrow we sail in the Jason, should the wind not prove contrary. Visits, dinners, and parties have so occupied our time, that to write hasbeen next to impossible. Of the country we have, from the same reason, seenlittle, and the people we are only acquainted with in full dress, which isnot the way to judge of them truly. One morning, indeed, we dedicated toviewing the works of the Yntendente, the railroad, and the water-filterers. He and the Countess, and a party of friends, accompanied us. 

The country through which the railroad passes is flat and rathermonotonous; nevertheless, the quantity of wild flowers, which appeared forthe most part of the convolvulus species, as we glanced past them--theorange-trees, the clumps of palm and cocoa, the plantain with its giganticleaves, the fresh green coffee-plant, the fields of sugar-cane of a stillbrighter green, the half-naked negroes, the low wooden huts, and, stillmore, the scorching sun in the month of November, --all was new to us, andsufficient to remind us of the leagues of ocean we had traversed, thoughthis is but a halt on our voyage. 

At the village where the cars stopped, we listened with much amusement tothe story of a fat, comfortable-looking individual, who was cured bylightning in the following manner:--He was in the last stage of a decline, when, one hot July morning, he was knocked down by a thunderbolt, a ball offire, which entered his side, ran all through his body, and came out at hisarm. At the place where the ball made its exit, a large ulcer was formed, and when it dispersed he found himself in perfect health, in which he hascontinued ever since! In such cases the "bottled lightning, " demanded byMrs. Nickleby's admirer, might be a valuable remedy. 

Of course I could not leave Havana without devoting one morning toshopping. The shops have most seducing names--Hope, Wonder, Desire, etc. The French modistes seem to be wisely improving their time, by chargingrespectable prices for their work. The shop-keepers bring their goods outto the volante, it not being the fashion for ladies to enter the shops, though I took the privilege of a foreigner to infringe this ruleoccasionally. Silks and satins very dear--lace and muslin very reasonable, was, upon the whole, the result of my investigation; but as it only lastedtwo hours, and that my sole purchases of any consequence, were anindispensable mantilla, and a pair of earrings, I give my opinion for thepresent with due diffidence. 

I can speak with more decision on the subject of a great ball given us bythe Countess F---a, last evening, which was really superb. The whole housewas thrown open--there was a splendid supper, quantities of refreshment, and the whole select aristocracy of Havana. Diamonds on all the women, jewels and orders on all the men, magnificent lustres and mirrors, and acapital band of music in the gallery. 

The Captain-General was the only individual in a plain dress. He madehimself very agreeable, in good French. About one hundred couple stood upin each country-dance, but the rooms are so large and so judiciouslylighted, that we did not feel at all warm. Waltzes, quadrilles, and theselong Spanish dances, succeeded each other. Almost all the girls have fineeyes and beautiful figures, but without colour, or much animation. Thefinest diamonds were those of the Countess F---a, particularly hernecklace, which was _undeniable_. 

Walking through the rooms after supper, we were amused to see the negroesand negresses helping them-selves plentifully to the sweetmeats, uncorkingand drinking fresh bottles of Champagne, and devouring everything on thesupper tables, without the slightest concern for the presence either oftheir master or mistress; in fact, behaving like a multitude of spoiltchildren, who are sure of meeting with indulgence, and presume upon it. 

Towards morning we were led downstairs to a large Souvenirs suite of rooms, containing a library of several thousand volumes; where coffee, cakes, etc. , were prepared in beautiful Sevres porcelain and gold plate. We leftthe house at last to the music of the national hymn of Spain, which struckup as we past through the gallery. 

Should the north wind, the dreaded _Norte_, not blow, we sail to-morrow, and have spent the day in receiving farewell visits. We also went to thetheatre, where every one predicts we shall not get off to-morrow. The playwas "Le Gamin de Paris, " translated. After our return, I paid a very latevisit to the P---r family, who live close by us, and now, at two in themorning, I finish my letter sleepily. Many beautiful _souvenirs_ have beensent us, and amongst others, the Count de S---- V---- has just sent C---n amodel of the palace of Madrid, one of the most beautiful and ingeniouspieces of workmanship possible. It is carved in wood, with astonishingaccuracy and delicacy. 

My next letter will be dated on board the Jason. 

LETTER THE THIRD

Departure in the Jason--Spanish Captain and Officers--Life on board aMan-of-War--"_Balances_"--Fishing--"_Le Petit Tambour_"--Cocoa-nuts--A_Norte_--Spanish Proverb--Peak of Orizava--Theory and Practice--_NorteChocolatero_--Contrary Winds--Chain of Mountains--Goleta. 

JASON, 24th November. 

This morning, at six o'clock, we breakfasted, together with CaptainEstrada, the commander of the Jason, at the _Casa H---a_; and the windbeing fair, repaired shortly after in volantes to the wharf, accompanied byour hospitable host, and several of our acquaintances; entered the boat, looked our last of the Palace and the Yntendencia, and of Havana itself, where we had arrived as strangers, and which now, in fifteen days, hadbegun to assume a familiar aspect, and to appear interesting in our eyes, by the mere force of human sympathy; and were transported to the ship, where a line of marines, drawn up to receive us, presented arms as weentered. The morning was beautiful; little wind, but fair. We took leave ofour friends, waved our handkerchiefs to the balconies in return for signalsfrom scarcely-distinguishable figures, passed between the red-tinted Cabanaand the stately Morro, and were once more upon the deep, with a remembrancebehind, and a hope before us. Our _Bergantina_ is a handsome vessel, withtwenty-five guns, five officers, a doctor, chaplain, and purser, and onehundred and fifty men. 

We find the commander very attentive, and a perfect gentleman, like almostall of his class, and though very young in appearance, he has beentwenty-nine years in the service. 

25th. --The weather delightful, and the ship going at the rate of five knotsan hour. The accommodations in a brig not destined for passengers are ofcourse limited. There is a large cabin for the officers, separated by asmaller one, belonging to the captain, which he has given up to us. 

At seven o'clock C---n rises, and at eight, a marine sentinel, transformedinto a lady's page, whom we are taking to Mexico as porter, brings us somevery delicious chocolate. He is followed by the Captain's familiar, anunhappy-looking individual, pale, lank, and lean, with the physiognomy of amethodist parson, and in general appearance like a weed that has grown upin one night. He tremblingly, and with most rueful countenance, carries asmall plate of sugar-biscuits. These originals having vacated the cabin, Iproceed to dress, an operation of some difficulty, which being performed_tant bien que mal_, I repair upstairs, armed with book and fan, and sit ondeck till ten o'clock, when the familiar's lamentable announcement ofbreakfast takes us down again. The cook being French, the _comestibles_ aredecidedly good, and were the artist a little less of an oil, and more of awater painter, I individually would prefer his style. We have every varietyof fish, meat, fowl, fruit, _dulces_, and wines. 

A very long interval has to be filled up by reading, writing, sitting, orwalking upon deck, as suits the taste of the individual, or by drinkingorangeade, or by sleeping, or by any other ingenious resource for killingtime. At five, dinner, at which no one joins us but the captain and oneofficer; and after dinner on deck till bed-time, walking about, or gazingon the sky or sea, or listening to the songs of the sailors. 

26th. --Little wind, but a day of such abominably cruel "_balances_, " asthey call them, that one is tempted to find rest by jumping overboard. Everything broken or breaking. Even the cannons disgorge their balls, whichfall out by their own weight. 

28th. --We have had two days of perfect weather though very warm; the skyblue, without one cloud. To-day we are on the sound, and have lain to, about noon, to let the sailors fish, thereby losing an hour or so of fairwind, and catching a preposterous number of fish of immense size. The waterwas so clear, that we could see the fish rush and seize the bait as fast asit was thrown in. Sometimes a huge shark would bite the fish in two, sothat the poor finny creature was between Scylla and Charybdis. These fishare called _cherne_ and _pargo_, and at dinner were pronounced good. Atlength a shark, in its wholesale greediness, seized the bait, and feelingthe hook in his horrid jaw, tugged most fiercely to release himself, but invain. Twelve sailors hauled him in, when, with distended jaws, he seemed tolook out for the legs of the men, whereupon they rammed the butt-end of aharpoon down his throat, which put a stop to all further proceedings on hispart. He was said to be quite young, perhaps the child of doting parents. The juvenile monster had, however, already cut three rows of teeth. 

We are sometimes amused in the evening, when upon deck, by a littledrummer, who invariably collects all the sailors round him, and spins themlong, endless stories of his own invention, to which they listen withintense interest. On he goes, without a moment's hesitation, inventingeverything most improbable and wonderful; of knights and giants andbeautiful princesses, and imprisoned damsels, and poor peasants becominggreat kings. He is a little ugly, active fellow, with a turned-up nose, amerry eye, and a laughing mouth. Amongst his axioms is the following verse, which he sings with great expression. 

 Hasta los palos del monte Tienen su destinacion Unos nacen para santos Y otros para hacer carbon. 

which may be translated so:

 Even the mountain-trees Have their allotted goal, For some are born for saints Whilst others serve for coal. 

29th. --Beautiful day, fair wind, great heat, and more fishing. At leastthirty large fish were caught this morning, also an infant shark, agrandchild who had wandered forth to nibble, and met an untimely grave. Wehave seen several alacrans or scorpions on board, but these are said not tobe poisonous. The ship is the perfection of cleanness. No disagreeableodour affects the olfactory nerves, in which it has a singular advantageover all packets. This, and having it all to ourselves, and the officersbeing such perfect gentlemen, and all so kind and attentive, makes ourvoyage so far a mere pleasure trip. 

We had some of the Countess de V----'s cocoa-nuts, of which she sent us agreat supply, pierced this morning, each containing three tumblers of freshand delicious water. 

1st December. --We are now about thirty leagues from Vera Cruz, and if thewind blows a little fresher, may reach it to-morrow. This is Sunday, butthe chaplain is too sick to say mass, and the heat is intense. 

2nd. --An unpleasant variety--a _Norte!_ I knew it was coming on, only bythe face of the first lieutenant when he looked at the barometer. Hiscountenance fell as many degrees as the instrument. It is very slight, butour entry into port will be delayed, for, on the coast, these winds aremost devoutly dreaded. It has rained all day, and, notwithstanding therolling of the ship, we attempted a game at chess, but after having triedtwo games, abandoned it in despair, a "_balance_" having, at the mostinteresting period of each, overturned the board, and left the victoryundecided, somewhat after the fashion of Homer's goddess, when sheenveloped the contending armies in a cloud. 

4th. --Yesterday evening a south wind, and the Spanish proverb says truly

 "Sur duro, Norte seguro. "

 "A south wind strong, The norther ere long. "

This morning the sky is covered with watery clouds, yet we can see theCofre de Perote and the peak of Orizava, which are thirty leagues inland!The latter, called by the Mexicans, Citlal Tepetl, or the mountain of thestar, from the fire which used to burn on its lofty summit, rises nineteenthousand five hundred and fifty-one feet above the level of the sea. Covered with perpetual snows, and rising far above clouds and tempests, itis the first mountain which the navigator discovers as he approaches theseshores. 

But the south wind continues and we are obliged to turn our back to thecoast. There is much impatience on board. A---- was taken ill, and declaredshe had got the yellow fever. The doctor was sent for, who, very sickhimself, and holding by the table to keep himself from falling, told her, without looking at her very particularly, that there was nothing thematter, only to keep yourself "_quite quiet and still_;" and the shiprolling at the same moment, he pitched head-foremost out of the cabin, showing practically how much easier precept is than example. As we shall nodoubt have a norther after this, which may last three days, our promisedland is still at some distance. 

5th. --The weather is charming, but the south-west wind holds mostimplacably, and the barometer has fallen five or six degrees, which, addedto other signs of the times known to navigators, causes all hands toprepare for the dreaded enemy. 

6th. --Job never was on board a ship. A norther, not a very severe one, butwhat they call a _Norte chocolatero_, that is, its shock tore a sail intwo, as I tear this sheet of paper. The most ingenious person I see is "themaster of the sails. " He sews most excessively quick and well. Towardsevening the wind calmed, but the ship, tossed upon a horribly swelled sea, became a mortal purgatory. Still the wind is lulled, though Humboldt andothers say a Norte must last forty-eight hours, and we have only had it fortwenty-four. We shall see. 

7th. --A most horrible night! My hammock, which I had foolishly preferred toa bed, not having room to swing in, threw me furiously against the wall, till fearing a broken head, I jumped out and lay on the floor. To-day thereis a comparative calm, a faint continuation of the Norte, which is an airwith variations. Everything now seems melancholy and monotonous. We havebeen tossed about during four days in sight of Vera Cruz, and are nowfurther from it than before. The officers begin to look miserable; even thecook with difficulty preserves his equilibrium. 

Sunday, 8th. --A Norte! The sky is watery, and covered with shapeless massesof reddish clouds. This is a great day amongst all Spanish Catholics, _LeVirgen de la Concepción_, the patroness of Spain and the Indies; but nomass to-day; the padre sick and the Norte blowing. What a succession oflong faces--walking barometers!

9th. --Yesterday evening the wind held out false hopes, and every onebrightened up with caution, for the wind, though faintly, blew from theright quarter. The rain ceased, the weather cleared, and "hope, thecharmer, " smiled upon us. The greater was our disappointment when thebreeze died away, when the wind veered to the north, and when once more themost horrible rolling seized the unfortunate Jason, as if it were possessedby a demon. Finding it impossible to lie in my hammock, I stretched myselfon the floor; where, during a night that seemed interminable, we weretossed up and down, knocked against the furniture, and otherwisemaltreated. 

This morning there is little wind, but that little from the north, so thatthe termination of our voyage appears as far off now as it did eight daysago. The faces of all on board are calmly lugubrious. Little said. A fewSpanish shrugs interchanged with ominous significance. 

10th. --As there is only one particular wind during which it is notdangerous to approach the coast, namely, "_la brisa_, " the breeze whichusually follows the norther, we may spend our Christmas here. The weatheris beautiful, though very sultry, especially during the calms whichintervene between the _nortes_. With books one might take patience, but Iread and re-read backwards and forwards everything I possess, or canfind--reviews, magazines, a volume of Humboldt, even an odd volume of the"Barber of Paris"--"Turkish Letters, " _purporting_ to be the translation ofa continuation of the Montesquieu's "Lettres Persanes, " and in which thehero, disguised as a gardener, brings the Visier's daughter a bouquet, which she condescendingly receives, lying in bed _a l'Espagnole!_ I am nowreduced to a very serious Spanish work on the truth of Christianity. 

This evening, to the joy of all on board, arose the long-desired breeze. The ship went slowly and steadily on her course, at first four, then eightknots an hour. The captain, however, looked doubtingly, and, indeed, towards morning, the wind changed to the south, and our hopes died away. 

11th. --Contrary wind. A south, expected to be followed by a "norte seguro. "But now, at eleven, A. M. , it is quite calm, and very sultry, whilst toincrease, if possible, our weariness, a long range of lofty mountainsstretches along the horizon, from Punta Delgada to the Cofre de Perote, andon till they seem to sink in the ocean. Behind the Cofre rises Orizava, nowlike a white cloud, but this morning tinged with a rosy light by the raysof the rising sun. The sea is tranquil and the horizon clear, neverthelessthe enemy is looked for. There are a few white and feathery cloudsflickering about in the sky, and there is an uneasy swell in the waves. . . . At three o'clock, out burst the norther, which, like the flaming sword, guarding the issues of paradise, "Waved over by that flaming brand, the gate With dreadful faces throng'd and fiery arms, "

seems to warn off all vessels from approaching these iron-bound shores. Eleven days within a few hours' distance of the coast!

16th. --Five days more passed with a continuation of contrary winds andconstant rolling. We are further from hope than we were fourteen days ago. Captain, officers, sailors, all seem nearly disheartened. This morning theycaught the most beautiful fish I ever beheld, of the dolphinspecies--the Cleopatra of the ocean, about four feet long, apparentlycomposed of gold, and studded with turquoises. It changed colour in dying. There is a proverb, which the sailors are repeating to each other, not veryencouraging:

 "Este es el viage del Orinoco. Que él que no se murio, se volvió loco. "

 "This is the voyage of the Orinoco, in which he who did not die, became crazy. "

17th. --Spoke a goleta, who came close up by our vessel, and seemed to havea miserable set on board, amongst others, a worthy pair from Havana, whohad just come out of prison, having been accused of murdering a negro. Thewind continues contrary. I shall fold up this sea-scrawl, and write no moretill we reach Vera Cruz. 

LETTER THE FOURTH

Distant View of Vera Cruz--Pilots--Boat from the City--MutualSalutes--Approach to Vera Cruz--Crowd on the Wharf--House of DionisioV---o--Guard of Honour--German Piano--Supper--Madonna--Aspect of theCity--_Sopilotes_--Deliberations--General Guadalupe Victoria--Two-headedEagle--Dilapidated Saint--Harp--Theatre--Donna InocenciaMartinez--Invitation from General Santa Anna. 

VERA CRUZ, 18th. 

This morning, the sanguine hoped, and the desponding feared, for the wind, though inclined to _la brisa_, seemed unlikely to prove sufficiently strongto enable us to reach Vera Cruz--this being the twenty-fifth day since weleft Havana; a voyage that, with a steamer, might be performed in threedays, and with a sailing-vessel and a fair wind, is made in six or seven. About noon, the aspect of things became more favourable. The breeze grewstronger, and with it our hopes. 

At last appeared in view, faintly, certain spires beside the low sandyland, which for some time we had anxiously watched, and at length we coulddistinguish houses and churches, and the fort of San Juan de Ulua, ofwarlike memory. By slow but sure degrees, we neared the shore, until VeraCruz, in all its ugliness, became visible to our much-wearied eyes. We hadbrought a pilot from Havana to guide us to these dangerous coasts, butthough a native of these parts, it seemed that a lapse of years had bluntedhis memory, for we had nearly run upon the rocks. A gun was thereforefired, and another pilot came out, who at sight of the Spanish flag waxedenthusiastic, and pointing out the castle to our ignorant friend, exclaimed, alluding to the desperate struggle made by the Spaniards todefend this their last stronghold at the end of the war, "_We_, althoughbut a handful of men, defended ourselves for years like soldiers, and nowthese Frenchmen took it in three days!" and, walking about in a transportof patriotic despair, he seemed to forget his actual duty in the tide ofremembrances which the sight of Spanish colours and a Spanish crew hadcalled forth. 

Anything more melancholy, _delabre_ and forlorn, than the whole appearanceof things as we drew near, cannot well be imagined. On one side, the fort, with its black and red walls: on the other, the miserable, black-lookingcity, with hordes of large black birds, called _sopilotes_, hovering oversome dead carcass, or flying heavily along in search of carrion. Still, asthe goal of our voyage, even its dreary aspect was welcome, and the veryhills of red sand by which it is surrounded, and which look like thedeserts of Arabia, appeared inviting. 

A boat full of cocked hats was now seen approaching from the city, containing the Consul in full uniform, and other authorities. C---n havingsent for and obtained permission from the Governor, to permit the Jason, contrary to established usages, to anchor beneath the castle, a salute oftwenty guns was fired from our ship. Being upon deck, I was nearlysuffocated with smoke and powder. A salute of the same number of cannon wasthen fired from the castle, in honour of the first Spanish man-of-war thathas appeared in this port since the Revolution. 

And now we prepared, before the sun went down, to leave our watery prison;and the captain's boat being manned, and having taken leave of theofficers, we, that is, C---n, the commander, and I, and my French maid andher French poodle, got into it. Then came a salute of twenty guns from theJason in our honour, and we rode off amidst clouds of smoke. Then the fortgave us welcome with the same number of guns, and, amidst all thiscannonading, we were landed at the wharf. 

A singular spectacle the wharf presented. A crowd, as far as the eye couldreach, of all ages and sexes of Vera Cruzians (and a very curious set theyseemed to be), were assembled to witness his Excellency's arrival. Some hadno pantaloons; and others, to make up for their neighbours' deficiencies, had two pair--the upper slit up the side of the leg, Mexican fashion. Allhad large hats, with silver or bead rolls, and every tinge of darkcomplexion, from the pure Indian, upwards. Some dresses were entirelycomposed of rags, clinging together by the attraction of cohesion; othershad only a few holes to let in the air. All were crowding, jostling, andnearly throwing each other into the water, and gazing with faces of intensecuriosity. 

But a plume of coloured feathers was seen towering above thecopper-coloured crowd, and immediate passage was made for an aide-de-campfrom the Governor, General Guadalupe Victoria. He was an immensely tallman, in a showy uniform all covered with gold, with colossal epaulets and atowering plume of rainbow-coloured feathers. He brought to C---n thewelcome and congratulations of the General, and those Spanish offers ofservice and devotion which sound agreeably, whatever be their true value. 

We now began to move through the crowd, which formed a line on either sideto let us pass, and entered the streets of Vera Cruz, which were crowded, balconies and all, and even roofs with curious faces. The guard formed aswe passed, and struck up a march. The principal street is wide and clean, and we reached the house of Señor V---o, a rich merchant, formerly consul, where we are to reside, followed to the door by the whole population. Wewere received with great hospitality, and found excellent rooms preparedfor us. The house is immensely large and airy, built in a square as theyall are, but with that unfurnished melancholy look, which as yet this styleof house has to me, though admirably adapted to the climate. 

A guard of honour sent by General Victoria, trotted into the courtyard, whose attendance C---n declined with thanks, observing that his mission hadfor object to terminate the coolness hitherto existing between two familiesof brothers; that between members of the same family there was nothing tofear, and all compliments were unnecessary. 

I found a German piano in the drawing-room, on which I was glad to put myfingers after a month's abstinence. A number of gentlemen came in theevening to visit C---n. We were received by this family with so much realkindness, that we soon found ourselves perfectly at home. We had aplentiful supper--fish, meat, wine, and chocolate, fruit and sweetmeats;the cookery, Spanish _Vera-Cruzified_. A taste of the style was enough forme, garlic and oil enveloping meat, fish, and fowl, with pimentos andplantains, and all kinds of curious fruit, which I cannot yet endure. Bedwas not unwelcome, and most comfortable beds we had, with mosquitocurtains, and sheets and pillows all trimmed with rich lace, so universalin Spanish houses, that it is not, as with us, a luxury. But the mosquitoeshad entered in some unguarded moment, and they and the heat were inimicalto sleep. 

19th. --I opened my eyes this morning on the painting of a very lovelyMadonna, which hung unvalued and ill-framed, in one corner of theapartment. At eight, rose and dressed, and went to breakfast. Here, whenthere are two guests whom they wish to distinguish, the gentleman is placedat the head of the table, and _his_ lady beside him. 

To me nothing can exceed the sadness of the aspect of this city and of itsenvirons--mountains of moving sand, formed by the violence of the northwinds, and which, by the reflection of the sun's rays, must greatlyincrease the suffocating heat of the atmosphere. The scene may resemble theruins of Jerusalem, though without its sublimity. The houses seemedblackened by fire; there is not a carriage on the streets--nothing but themen with the wide trousers slit up the side of the leg, immense hats, andblankets, or _sarapes_, merely a closed blanket, more or less fine, with ahole for the head to go through; and the women with _reboses_, longcoloured cotton scarfs, or pieces of ragged stuff, thrown over the head andcrossing over the left shoulder. Add to this, the sopilotes cleaning thestreets, --disgusting, but useful scavengers. These valuable birds haveblack feathers, with gray heads, beaks, and feet. They fly in troops, andat night perch upon the trees. They are not republican, nor do they appearinclined to declare their independence, having kings, to whom it is saidthey pay so much respect, that if one of the royal species arrives at thesame time with a plebeian sopilote, in sight of a dead body, the latterhumbly waits till the sovereign has devoured his share, before he venturesto approach. 

A few ladies in black gowns and mantillas called this morning, and variousmen. We find the weather sultry. In summer, with greater heat and theaddition of the _vomito_, it must be a chosen city! The principal street, where we live, is very long and wide, and seems to have many good houses init. Nearly opposite is one which seems particularly well kept and handsome, and where we saw beautiful flowers as we passed. I find it belongs to anEnglish merchant. 

There is much deliberation as to the mode in which we are to travel toMexico. Some propose a coach, others a _litera_; others advise us to takethe diligence. While in this indecision, we had a visit this morning from aremarkable-looking character, Don Miguel S----, agent for the diligenceoffice in Mexico, a tall, dark, energetic-looking person. He recommends thediligence, and offers, by accompanying us, to ensure our safety fromaccidents. He appears right. The diligence goes in four days, if it doesnot break down. The coach takes any time we choose over that; the _literas_nine or ten days, going slowly on mules with a sedan-chair motion. Thediligence has food and beds provided for it at the inns--the othersnothing. I am in favour of the diligence. 

The couple from Havana, whom we passed in the _goleta_, have very coollyrequested permission to accompany us to Mexico, "under the protection ofthe _Embajador de Espana_. " We should set off in select company. 

C---n called this morning on General Victoria. Found his excellency in alarge hall without furniture or ornament of any sort, without even chairs, and altogether in a style of more than republican simplicity. He has justreturned the visit, accompanied by his colossal aide-de-camp. 

General Guadalupe Victoria is perhaps the last man in a crowd whom onewould fix upon as being the owner of the above high-sounding cognomen, which in fact is not his original, but his assumed name, _Guadalupe_ beingadopted by him in honour of the renowned image of the virgin of that name, and _Victoria_ with less humility to commemorate his success in battle. Heis an honest, plain, down-looking citizen, lame and tall, somewhat at aloss for conversation, apparently amiable and good-natured, but certainlyneither courtier nor orator; a man of undeniable bravery, capable ofsupporting almost incredible hardships, humane, and who has always provedhimself a sincere lover of what he considered liberty, without ever havingbeen actuated by ambitious or interested motives. 

It is said that his defects were indolence, want of resolution, and toomuch reliance on his own knowledge. He is the only Mexican president whofinished as chief magistrate, the term prescribed by the laws. It isalleged, in proof of his simplicity, though I think it is too absurd to betrue, that having received a despatch with the two-headed eagle on theseal, he remarked to the astonished envoy who delivered it--"Our arms arevery much alike, only I see that his majesty's eagles have two heads. Ihave heard that some of that species exist here, in _tierre caliente_, andshall have one sent for. "

The general is not married, but appears rather desirous of entering theunited state. He strongly recommends us to avoid broken bones by going itliteras, at least as far as Jalapa. Having stumbled about for some time insearch of his cocked-hat, it was handed to him by his aide-de-camp, and hetook leave. 

We walked out in the evening to take a look of the environs, with SeñorV---o, the commander of the Jason, and several young ladies of the house. We walked in the direction of an old church, where it is or was the customfor young ladies desirous of being married to throw a stone at the saint, their fortune depending upon the stone's hitting him, so that he is in alapidated and dilapidated condition. Such environs! the surrounding housesblack with smoke of powder or with fire--a view of bare red sandhills allround--not a tree, or shrub, or flower, or bird, except the horrid blacksopilote, or police-officer. All looks as if the prophet Jeremiah hadpassed through the city denouncing woe to the dwellers thereof. Such amelancholy, wholly deserted-looking burial-ground as we saw!

War and revolutions have no doubt done their work, yet I find difficulty inbelieving those who speak of Vera Cruz as having been a gay and delightfulresidence in former days, though even now, those who have resided here forany length of time, even foreigners, almost invariably become attached toit; and as for those born here, they are the truest of patriots, holding upVera Cruz as superior to all other parts of the world. 

The city was founded by the Viceroy, Count de Monterey, at the end of theseventeenth century, and ought not to be confounded, as it sometimes is, with either of the two colonies founded by the first Spaniards. Built infront of the island of San Juan de Ulua, it has one interestingrecollection attached to it, since on the same arid shores, Cortesdisembarked more than three centuries ago. Unlike the green and fertilecoast which gladdened the eyes of Columbus, the Spanish conqueror beheld ableak and burning desert, whose cheerless aspect might well have deterred afeebler mind from going further in search of the paradise that existedbehind. 

We returned to the house, and heard some ladies play upon a harp, socalled, a small, light instrument in that form, but without pedals, solight, that they can lift it with one hand; and yet the music they bringfrom it is surprising; one air after another, a little monotonously, butwith great ease and a certain execution, and with the additional merit ofbeing self-taught. 

I imagine that there must be a great deal of musical taste thrown awayhere. There are pianos in almost every house, and one lady, who came to seeme to-day, and whose mother was English, had been extremely well taught, and played with great taste. They attempted dancing, but having no masters, can only learn by what they _hear_. On the balcony this evening, it wasdelightful, and the moon is a universal beautifier. 

21st. --We walked about the city yesterday, and returned visits. The streetsare clean, and some few churches tolerably handsome. 

The _Comicos_ came in the morning to offer us the centre box in thetheatre, it being the benefit night of Donna Inocencia Martinez fromMadrid, a favourite of the public, and, in fact, a pretty woman and goodcomic actress. The theatre is small, and, they say, generally deserted, butlast night it was crowded. The drop-scene represents the fine arts, who areso fat, that their condition here must be flourishing. We were, however, agreeably disappointed in the performance, which was the "Segunda DamaDuende, " nearly a translation from the "Domino Noir, " and very amusing;full of excellent _coups-de-theatre_. Donna Inocencia in her variouscharacters, as domino, servant-girl, abbess, etc. , was very handsome, andacted with great spirit. Moreover, she and her sister, with two Spaniards, danced the Jota Aragonesa in perfection, so that we spent a pleasantevening, upon the whole, within the precincts of the city of the TrueCross. 

To-morrow is the day fixed for our departure, and we shall not be sorry toleave this place, although this house is excellent, a whole suite of roomsgiven to us, and neither ceremony nor _gene_ of any sort. The weather iscertainly beautiful. The heat may be a little oppressive in the middle ofthe day, but the evenings are cool and delightful. 

Departure from Vera Cruz

We had a visit yesterday from the English and French consuls. M. De ----- prophesies broken arms and dislodged teeth, if we persist in ourplan of taking the diligence, --but all things balanced, we think itpreferable to every other conveyance. General Victoria returned to seeus this morning, and was very civil and amiable, offering very cordiallyevery service and assistance in his power. We are to rise to-morrow attwo, being invited to breakfast with General Santa Anna, at hiscountry-seat Manga de Clavo, a few leagues from this. 

We have been sitting on the balcony till very late, enjoying the moonlightand refreshing breeze from the sea, and as we rise before daybreak, ourrest will be but short. 

LETTER THE FIFTH

Departure from Vera Cruz--Sandhills--Oriental Scene--Manga deClavo--General Santa Anna--Breakfast--Escort and Diligence--SantaFe--Puente National--Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward--Country inDecember--Don Miguel--First Impressions--Fruit--Plan del Rio--GermanMusicians--Sleeping Captain--Approach to Jalapa--Appearance of theCity--Cofre de Perote-Flowers--House and Rock--Last View of Jalapa--Changeof Scenery--San Miguel de los Soldados--Perote--Striking Scene beforeDaybreak--Non-arrival of Escort--Yankee Coachman--Dispute--Departure--Company of Lancers--Alcalde--Breakfast at La Ventilla--Pulque--DoubleEscort--Crosses--Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper--Ojo de Agua--Arrival atPuebla--Dress of the Peasants--Christmas-eve--Inn--"_Nacimento_. "

JALAPA, 23rd December. 

Yesterday morning at two o'clock we rose by candlelight, with the pleasantprospect of leaving Vera Cruz and of seeing Santa Anna. Two boxes, calledcarriages, drawn by mules, were at the door, to convey us to Magna deClavo. Señor V---o, C---n, the commander of the Jason, and I being encasedin them, we set off half-asleep. By the faint light, we could justdistinguish as we passed the gates, and the carriages ploughed their wayalong nothing but sand--sand--as far as the eye could reach; a few leaguesof Arabian desert. 

At length we began to see symptoms of vegetation; occasional palm-trees andflowers, and by the time we had reached a pretty Indian village, where westopped to change mules, the light had broke in, and we seemed to have beentransported, as if by enchantment, from a desert to a garden. It wasaltogether a picturesque and striking scene; the huts composed of bamboo, and thatched with palm-leaves, the Indian women with their long black hairstanding at the doors with their half-naked children, the mules rollingthemselves on the ground, according to their favourite fashion, snow-whitegoats browsing amongst the palm-trees, and the air so soft and balmy, thefirst fresh breath of morning; the dew-drops still glittering on the broadleaves of the banana and palm, and all around so silent, cool, and still. 

The huts, though poor, were clean; no windows, but a certain subdued lightmakes its way through the leafy canes. We procured some tumblers of newmilk, and having changed mules, pursued our journey, now no longer throughhills of sand, but across the country, through a wilderness of trees andflowers, the glowing productions of tierra caliente. We arrived about fiveat Manga de Clavo, after passing through leagues of natural garden, theproperty of Santa Anna. 

The house is pretty, slight-looking, and kept in nice order. We werereceived by an aide-de-camp in uniform, and by several officers, andconducted to a large, cool, agreeable apartment, with little furniture, into which shortly entered the Señora de Santa Anna, tall, thin, and, atthat early hour of the morning, dressed to receive us in clear whitemuslin, with white satin shoes, and with very splendid diamond earrings, brooch, and rings. She was very polite, and introduced her daughterGuadalupe, a miniature of her mamma, in features and costume. 

In a little while entered General Santa Anna himself; a gentlemanly, good-looking, quietly-dressed, rather melancholy-looking person, with oneleg, apparently somewhat of an invalid, and to us the most interestingperson in the group. He has a sallow complexion, fine dark eyes, soft andpenetrating, and an interesting expression of face. Knowing nothing of hispast history, one would have said a philosopher, living in dignifiedretirement--one who had tried the world, and found that all wasvanity--one who had suffered ingratitude, and who, if he were everpersuaded to emerge from his retreat, would only do so, Cincinnatus-like, to benefit his country. It is strange, how frequently this expression ofphilosophic-resignation, of placid sadness, is to be remarked on thecountenances of the deepest, most ambitious, and most designing men. C---ngave him a letter from the Queen, written under the supposition of hisbeing still President, with which he seemed much pleased, but merely madethe innocent observation, "How very well the Queen writes!"

It was only now and then, that the expression of his eye was startling, especially when he spoke of his leg, which is cut off below the knee. Hespeaks of it frequently, like Sir John Ramorny of his bloody hand, and whenhe gives an account of his wound, and alludes to the French on that day, his countenance assumes that air of bitterness which Ramorny's may haveexhibited when speaking of "Harry the Smith. "

Otherwise, he made himself very agreeable, spoke a great deal of the UnitedStates, and of the persons he had known there, and in his manners was quietand gentlemanlike, and altogether a more polished hero than I had expectedto see. To judge from the past, he will not long remain in his presentstate of inaction, besides having within him, according to Zavala, "aprinciple of action for ever impelling him forward. "

_En attendant_, breakfast was announced. The Señora de Santa Anna led mein. C---n was placed at the head of the table, I on his right, Santa Annaopposite, the Señora on my right. The breakfast was very handsome, consisting of innumerable Spanish dishes, meat and vegetables, fish andfowl, fruits and sweatmeats, all served in white and gold French porcelain, with coffee, wines, etc. After breakfast, the Señora having despatched anofficer for her cigar-case, which was gold, with a diamond latch, offeredme a cigar, which I having declined, she lighted her own, a little paper"cigarito, " and the gentlemen followed her good example. 

We then proceeded to look at the out-houses and offices; at the General'sfavourite war-horse, an old white charger, probably a sincerer philosopherthan his master; at several game-cocks, kept with especial care, cock-fighting being a favourite recreation of Santa Anna's; and at his_litera_, which is handsome and comfortable. There are no gardens, but, ashe observed, the whole country, which for twelve leagues square belongs tohim, is a garden. The appearance of the family says little for thehealthiness of the _locale_; and indeed its beauty and fertility will notcompensate for its insalubrity. 

As we had but a few hours to spare, the General ordered round twocarriages, both very handsome, and made in the United States, one of whichconveyed him and C---n, the Señora and me. In the other were the littlegirl and the officers; in which order we proceeded across the country tothe high-road, where the diligence and servants, with our guide, Don MiguelS----, were to overtake us. The diligence not having arrived, we got downand sat on a stone bench, in front of an Indian cottage, where we talked, while the young lady amused herself by eating apples, and C---n and theGeneral remained moralizing in the carriage. 

Shortly after, and just as the sun was beginning to give us a specimen ofhis power, our lumbering escort of Mexican soldiers galloped up (ordershaving been given by the government that a fresh escort shall be stationedevery six leagues) and announced the approach of the diligence. We wereagreeably disappointed by the arrival of a handsome new coach, made in theUnited States, drawn by ten good-looking mules, and driven by a smartYankee coachman. Our party consisted of ourselves, Don Miguel, the captainof the Jason and his first lieutenant, who accompany us to Mexico. The daywas delightful, and every one apparently in good-humour. We took leave ofGeneral Santa Anna, his lady and daughter, also of our hospitableentertainer, Señor V---o; got into the diligence--doors shut--allright--lash up the mules, and now for Mexico!

Gradually, as in Dante's Commedia, after leaving Purgatory, typified byVera Cruz, we seemed to draw nearer to Paradise. The road is difficult, asthe approach to Paradise ought to be, and the extraordinary jolts weresufficient to prevent us from being too much enraptured by the scenery, which increased in beauty as we advanced. At Santa Fe and Sopilote wechanged horses, and at Tolome, one of the sites of the civil war, came tothe end of Santa Anna's twelve leagues of property. 

We arrived at Puente Nacional, formerly Puente del Rey, celebrated as thescene of many an engagement during the Revolution, and by occupying which, Victoria frequently prevented the passage of the Spanish troops, and thatof the convoys of silver to the port. Here we stopped a short time toadmire the beautiful bridge thrown over the river Antigua, with its stonearches, which brought Mrs. Ward's sketch to my recollection, though it isvery long since I saw the book. We were accompanied by the commander of thefort. It is now a peaceful-looking scene. We walked to the bridge, pulledbranches of large white flowers, admired the rapid river dashing over therocks, and the fine, bold scenery that surrounds it. The village is a merecollection of huts, with some fine trees. 

It was difficult to believe, as we journeyed on, that we were now in themidst of December. The air was soft and balmy. The heat, without beingoppressive, that of a July day in England. The road through a succession ofwoody country; trees covered with every variety of blossom, and loaded withthe most delicious tropical fruits; flowers of every colour filling the airwith fragrance, and the most fantastical profusion of parasitical plantsintertwining the branches of the trees, and flinging their bright blossomsover every bough. Palms, cocoas, oranges, lemons, succeeded one another, and at one turn of the road, down in a lovely green valley, we caught aglimpse of an Indian woman, with her long hair, resting under the shade ofa lofty tree--beside a running stream--an Oriental picture. Had it not beenfor the dust and the jolting, nothing could have been more delightful. Asfor Don Miguel, with his head out of the window, now desiring the coachmanto go more quietly, now warning us to prepare for a jolt, now pointing outeverything worth looking at, and making light of difficulties, he was thevery best conductor of a journey I ever met with. His hat of itself was acuriosity to us; a white beaver with immense brim, lined with thick silvertissue, with two large silver rolls and tassels round it. 

One circumstance must be observed by all who travel in Mexican territory. There is not one human being or passing object to be seen that is not initself a picture, or which would not form a good subject for the pencil. The Indian women with their plaited hair, and little children slung totheir backs, their large straw hats, and petticoats of two colours--thelong strings of arrieros with their loaded mules, and swarthy, wild-looking faces--the chance horseman who passes with his sarape of manycolours, his high ornamented saddle, Mexican hat, silver stirrups, andleathern boots--this is picturesque. Salvator Rosa and Hogarth might havetravelled here to advantage, hand-in-hand; Salvator for the sublime, andHogarth taking him up where the sublime became the ridiculous. 

At La Calera we had a distant view of the sea. Occasionally we stopped tobuy oranges fresh from the trees, pineapples, and granaditas, which arelike Brobdinagian gooseberries, the pulp enclosed in a very thick yellow orgreen rind, and very refreshing. 

It was about seven in the evening, when very dusty, rather tired, but verymuch enchanted with all we had seen, we arrived at Plan del Rio. Here thediligence passengers generally stop for the night; that is, sleep a fewhours on a hard bed, and rise at midnight to go on to Jalapa. But to thisarrangement, I for one made vociferous objections, and strongly insistedupon the propriety and feasibility of sleeping at Jalapa that night. DonMiguel, the most obsequious of dons, declared that it should be exactly asthe Señora ordered. 

Accordingly it was agreed that we should wait for the moon, and then pursueour journey; and meanwhile we walked out to a short distance, to see thebridge, the river, and the wood. The bridge consists of a single large archthrown over the river, and communicating with a great high-road, formerlypaved, but now going to ruin. 

We returned to the inn, a long row of small rooms, built of brick andprettily situated, not far from the water. Here we had the luxury of waterand towels, which enabled us to get rid of a certain portion of dust beforewe went to supper. 

The diligence from Jalapa has just deposited at the inn, a German with hiswife and child, he bearing so decidedly the stamp of a German musician, that we at once guessed his calling. They are from Mexico, from whence thefine arts seem to be taking their flight, and gave a most woeful account ofthe road between this and Jalapa. 

We had a very tolerable supper; soup, fish, fowls, steak, and frijoles, allwell seasoned with garlic and oil. The jolting had given me too bad aheadache to care for more than coffee. We were strongly advised to remainthe night there, but lazy people know too well what it is to rise in themiddle of the night, especially when they are much fatigued; and when themoon rose, we packed ourselves once more into the diligence, sufficientlyrefreshed to encounter new fatigues. The moon was very bright, and most ofthe party prepared themselves for sleep with cigars in their mouths; not avery easy matter, for the roads were infamous, a succession of holes androcks. As we were gradually ascending, the weather became cooler, and fromcool began to grow cold, forcing us to look out for cloaks and shawls. Wecould now discern some change in the vegetation, or rather a mingling ofthe trees of a colder climate with those of the tropics, especially theMexican oak, which begins to flourish here. Fortunately, at one part of theroad, the moon enabled us to see the captain of the escort lying on theground fast asleep, his horse standing quietly beside him, he having fallenoff while asleep, and continued his nap. The soldiers shook him up withsome difficulty. 

At _Carral falso_ we changed mules, and from the badness of the road, continued to go slowly. 

The cold increased, and at last by the moonlight, we had a distinct view ofthe Peak of Orizava, with his white nightcap on (excuse the simile, suggested by extreme sleepiness), the very sight enough to make one shiver. 

As we approached Jalapa, the scene was picturesque. The escort had put ontheir _sarapes_, and with their high helmets and feathers, went gallopingalong, and dashing amongst the trees and shrubs. Orizava and the Cofre dePerote shone white in the distance, while a delicious smell of flowers, particularly of roses, gave token of the land through which we werepassing. 

It was nearly two in the morning when we reached Jalapa, tired to death, and shivering with cold. Greatly we rejoiced as we rattled through itsmountainous streets, and still more when we found ourselves in a nice cleaninn, with brick floors and decent small beds, and everything prepared forus. The sight of a fire would have been too much luxury; however, they gaveus some hot tea, and very shortly after, I at least can answer for myself, that I was in bed, and enjoying the most delightful sleep that I have hadsince I left New York. 

This morning the diligence being at our disposal we did not rise by breakof day, but on the contrary, continued to sleep till eight o'clock. I waswaited on by such a nice, civil, clean little old woman, that I should liketo carry her off with me. Meanwhile, various authorities of the town werestationed at the door to give C---n welcome when he should appear. 

Our breakfast was delicious. Such fresh eggs, and fresh butter, and goodcoffee and well-fried chickens; moreover, such good bread and peculiarlyexcellent water, that we fell very much in love with Jalapa. 

After breakfast we walked out, accompanied by various gentlemen of theplace. The town consists of little more than a few steep streets, very old, with some large and excellent houses, the best as usual belonging toEnglish merchants, and many to those of Vera Cruz, who come to live in ornear Jalapa, during the reign of the "_Vomito_. " There are some oldchurches, a very old convent of Franciscan monks, and a well-suppliedmarketplace. Everywhere there are flowers--roses creeping over the oldwalls, Indian girls making green garlands for the virgin and saints, flowers in the shops, flowers at the windows, but, above all, everywhereone of the most splendid mountain views in the world. 

The Cofre de Perote, with its dark pine forests and gigantic _chest_ (arock of porphyry which takes that form), and the still loftier snow-whitepeak of Orizava, tower above all the others, seeming like the colossalguardians of the land. The intervening mountains, the dark cliffs andfertile plains, the thick woods of lofty trees clothing the hills and thevalleys; a glimpse of the distant ocean; the surrounding lanes shaded byfruit trees: aloes, bananas, chirimoyas, mingled with the greenliquidambar, the flowering myrtle, and hundreds of plants and shrubs andflowers of every colour and of delicious fragrance, all combine to form oneof the most varied and beautiful scenes that the eye can behold. 

Then Jalapa itself, so old and gray, and rose-becovered, with a sound ofmusic issuing from every open door and window, and its soft and agreeabletemperature, presents, even in a few hours, a series of agreeableimpressions not easily effaced. 

But we are now returned to our inn, for it is near noon, and the veil ofclouds, that earlier in the morning enveloped Orizava, has passed away, leaving its white summit environed by a flood of light. I shall probablyhave no opportunity of writing until we reach Puebla. 

PUEBLA, 24th. 

Yesterday morning we took leave of the _Jalapenos_, and once more foundourselves _en route_. Such a view of the mountains as we ascended the steeproad! and such flowers and blossoming trees on all sides! Large scarletblossoms, and hanging purple and white flowers, and trees covered withfragrant bell-shaped flowers like lilies, which the people here call the_floripundio_, together with a profusion of double pink roses that made theair fragrant as we passed; and here and there a church, a ruined convent, or a white hacienda. We had the advantage of clear weather, not always tobe found at Jalapa, especially when the north wind, blowing at Vera Cruz, covers this city and its environs with a dense fog. 

We stopped at a small village to change horses (for on leaving Jalapa, ourmules were exchanged for eight strong white horses), and here Don Miguelmade us enter a very pretty house belonging to some female friends of his, one of whom was very handsome, with a tasteful white turban. The curiosityof this place is a rock behind the house, covered with roses, clove-carnations, and every variety of bright flower-tree, together withoranges, lemons, limes, and cedrats, all growing out of the rock. Theladies were very civil, though I dare say surprised at our admiration oftheir December flowers, and gave us orangeade and cake, with large cedratsand oranges from the trees; but above all, the most delicious bouquet ofroses and carnations; so that, together with the unknown scarlet and purpleblossoms which the captain of the escort had gathered for me, the diligenceinside looked like an arbour. 

We continued our journey, the road ascending towards the tableland, and atone striking point of view we got out and looked back upon Jalapa, andround upon a panorama of mountains. Gradually the vegetation changed: fine, fresh-looking European herbage and trees succeeded the less hardy thoughmore brilliant trees and flowers of the tropics; the banana and chirimoyagave place to the strong oak, and higher still, these were interspersedwith the dark green of the pine. 

At San Miguel de los Soldados we stopped to take some refreshment. Thecountry became gradually more bleak, and before arriving at the village ofLas Vigas, nearly all trees had disappeared but the hardy fir, whichflourishes amongst the rocks. The ground for about two leagues was coveredwith lava, and great masses of black calcined rock, so that we seemed to bepassing over the crater of a volcano. This part of the country isdeservedly called the _Mal Pais_, and the occasional crosses with theirfaded garlands, that gleam in these bleak, volcanic regions, give tokenthat it may have yet other titles to the name of "Evil Land. " The roses andcarnations that I had brought from Jalapa were still unwithered, so that ina few hours we had passed through the whole scale of vegetation. 

The road became steep and dreary, and after passing _Cruz Blanca_, excepting occasional cornfields and sombre pine-forests, the scene had noobjects of interest sufficient to enable us to keep our eyes open. The sunwas set--it grew dusk, and by the time we reached Perote, where we were topass the night, most of us had fallen into an uncomfortable sleep, verycold and quite stupefied, and too sleepy to be hungry, in spite of findinga large supper prepared for us. 

The inn was dirty, very unlike that at Jalapa, the beds miserable, and wewere quite ready to get up by the light of an unhappy specimen of tallowwhich the landlord brought to our doors at two in the morning. 

There are some scenes which can never be effaced from our memory, and sucha one was that which took place this morning at Perote at two o'clock, themoon and the stars shining bright and cold. 

Being dressed, I went into the kitchen, where C---n, the officers of theJason, Don Miguel, and the Mexican captain of the last night's escort, wereassembled by the light of one melancholy sloping candle, together with asuspicious-looking landlord, and a few sleepy Indian women with bare feet, tangled hair, copper faces and reboses. They made us some chocolate withgoat's milk, horrid in general, and rancid in particular. 

It appeared that all parties were at a standstill, for, by some mistake inthe orders, the new escort had not arrived, and the escort of the precedingnight could go no further. Don Miguel, with his swarthy face, and greatsarape, was stalking about, rather out of humour, while the captain wasregretting, in very polite tones, with his calm, Arab-looking, impassiveface, that his escort could proceed no further. He seemed to think itextremely probable that we should be robbed, believed, indeed had justheard it asserted, that a party of _ladrones_ were looking out for el SeñorMinistro, regretted that he could not assist us, though quite at ourservice, and recommended us to wait until the next escort should arrive. 

To this advice our conductor would by no means listen. He was piqued thatany detention should occur, and yet aware that it was unsafe to go on. Hehad promised to convey us safely, and in four days, to Mexico, and it wasnecessary to keep his word. Some one proposed that two of the men shouldaccompany the diligence upon mules, as probably a couple of these animalsmight be procured. The captain observed, that though entirely at ourdisposal, two men could be of no manner of use, as, in case of attack, resistance, except with a large escort, was worse than useless. Nevertheless it was remarked by some ingenious person, that the robbersseeing two, might imagine that there were more behind. In short there werevarious opinions. One proposed that they should go on the coach, anotherthat they should go _in_ it. Here I ventured to interpose, begging thatthey might ride on mules or go outside, but by no means within. As usual, it was as the Señora pleased. 

At length we all collected before the door of the inn, and a queer group wemust have made by the light of the moon, and a nice caricature, I thoughtto myself, our friend Mr. G---- would have made of us, had he been there. 

The diligence with eight white horses and a Yankee coachman, originally, nodoubt, called Brown, but now answering to the mellifluous appellation of_Bruno_; A---- with her French cap, and loaded with sundry mysteriouslooking baskets; I with cloak and bonnet; C---n with Greek cap, cloak, andcigar; the captain of the Jason also with cloak and cigar, and very cold;the lieutenant in his navy uniform, taking it coolly; Don Miguel, with hisgreat sarape and silver hat--(six people belonging to five differentcountries); the Mexican captain, with his pale impassive face andmoustaches, enveloped in a very handsome sarape, and surrounded by thesleepy escort of the preceding night; dirty-looking soldiers lounging onthe ground, wrapped in their blankets; the Indian women and the host of theinn, and a bright moon and starry sky lighting up the whole--the figures inthe foreground, and the lofty snow-clad mountains, and the dismal old townof Perote itself, that looked gray and sulky at being disturbed so early, with its old castle of San Carlos, and cold, sterile plains. 

Meanwhile, two soldiers with cloaks and arms had climbed up outside of thecoach. The captain remarked that they could not sit there. Bruno made somereply, upon which the captain very coolly drew his sword, and was about toput a very decided impediment to our journey by stabbing the coachman, whenDon Miguel, his eyes and cigar all shining angrily, rushed in between them. 

High words ensued between him and the captain, and the extreme coolness andprecision with which the latter spoke, was very amusing. It was as if hewere rehearsing a speech from a play. "I always speak frankly, " said DonMiguel, in an angry tone. "And I, " said the captain, in a polite, measuredvoice, "am also accustomed to speak my mind with extreme frankness. Iregret, however, that I did not at the moment perceive the Señora at thedoor, otherwise, " etc. 

At length the two little men, who with their arms and sarapes looked likebundles of ammunition, and who, half asleep, had been by some zealousperson, probably by our friend Bruno, tumbled upon the diligence likepackages, were now rolled off it, and finally tumbled upon mules, and wegot into the coach. Don Miguel, with his head out of the window, and notvery easy in his mind, called up the two bundles and gave them directionsas to their line of conduct in a stage whisper, and they trotted off, primed with valour, while we very cold and (I answer for myself) ratherfrightened, proceeded on our way. The earliness of the hour was probablyour salvation, as we started two hours before the usual time, and thusgained a march upon the gentlemen of the road. 

We were not sorry, however, when at our first halting-place, and whilstwe, were changing horses, we descried a company of lancers at full gallop, with a very good-looking officer at their head, coming along the road;though when first I heard the sound of horses' hoofs, clattering along, and, by the faint light, discerned the horsemen enveloped as they were in acloud of dust, I felt sure that they were a party of robbers. The captainmade many apologies for the delay, and proceeded to inform us that thealcaldes of Tepeyagualco, La Ventilla, and of some other villages, whosenames I forget, had for twenty days prepared a breakfast in expectation ofhis Excellency's arrival:--whether twenty breakfasts, or the same one cold, or _réchauffé_, we may never know. 

The captain had a very handsome horse, which he caused to _caracolear_ bythe side of the diligence, and put at my disposal with a low bow, everytime I looked at it. He discoursed with C---n of robbers and wars, and ofthe different sites which these gentry most affected, and told him how hisfirst wife had been shot by following him in some engagement, yet how hissecond wife invariably followed him also. 

Arrived at Tepeyagualco, after having passed over a succession of sterileplains covered with scanty pasture, an alcalde advanced to meet thediligence, and hospitably made C---n an offer of the before-mentionedtwenty days' entertainment, which he with many thanks declined. Who atethat breakfast, is buried in the past. Whether the alcalde was glad orsorry, did not appear. He vanished with a profusion of bows, and wasfollowed by a large, good-looking Indian woman, who stood behind him whilehe made his discourse. Perhaps they eat together the long-prepared feast;which was at least one of the many tributes paid to the arrival of thefirst messenger of peace from the mother-country. 

At La Ventilla, however, we descended with a good appetite, and foundseveral authorities waiting to give C---n a welcome. Here they gave usdelicious chirimoyas, a natural custard, which we liked even upon a firsttrial, also granaditas, bananas, sapotes, etc. Here also I first tasted_pulque;_ and on a first impression it appears to me, that as nectar wasthe drink in Olympus, we may fairly conjecture that Pluto cultivated themaguey in his dominions. The taste and smell combined took me so completelyby surprise, that I am afraid my look of horror must have given mortaloffence to the worthy alcalde who considers it the most delicious beveragein the world; and in fact, it is said, that when one gets over the firstshock, it is very agreeable. The difficulty must consist in getting overit. 

After a tolerable breakfast, hunger making chile and garlic supportable, wecontinued our route; and were informed that the robbers, having grown verydaring, and the next stage being very dangerous, our escort was to bedoubled. Since we left Perote, the country had gradually become moredreary, and we had again got into the "_mal pais_, " where nothing is to beseen but a few fir-trees and pines, dark and stunted, black masses of lava, and an occasional white cross to mark either where a murder has beencommitted, or where a celebrated robber has been buried. Of each, DonMiguel gave us a succinct account. Some lines of Childe Harold suit thisscene as if written for it:

 "And here and there, as up the crags you spring, Mark many rude-carved crosses near the path: Yet deem not these devotion's offering-- These are memorials frail of murderous wrath; For, wheresoe'er the shrieking victim hath Pour'd forth his blood beneath the assassin's knife, Some hand erects a cross of mouldering lath; And grove and glen with thousand such are rife, Throughout this purple land, where law secures not life. "

The whole scene was wild and grand, yet dreary and monotonous, presentingthe greatest contrast possible to our first day's journey. The only signsof life to be met with were the long strings of arrieros with their drovesof mules, and an occasional Indian hut, with a few miserable half-nakedwomen and children. 

At one small, wild-looking inn, where, very cold and miserable, we stopped, some hot wine was brought us, which was very acceptable. The tavern-keeper, for it was no more than a spirit-shop, if not a robber, had all theappearance of one; wild, melancholy, and with a most sinister expression ofcountenance. Salvator never drew a more bandit-looking figure, as he stoodthere with his blanket and slouched hat, and a knife in his belt, tall andthin and muscular, with his sallow visage and his sad, fierce eyes. However, he showed us the marks on his door, where a band of twenty robbershad broken in one night, and robbed some travellers, who were sleepingthere, of a large sum of money. 

C---n asked him how the robbers treated the women when they fell into theirpower. "_Las saludan_, " said he, "and sometimes carry them off to themountains, but rarely, and chiefly when they are afraid of their givinginformation against them. "

At _Ojo de Agua_, where we changed horses, we saw the accommodations whichthose who travel in private coach or litera must submit to, unless theybring their own beds along with them, and a stock of provisions besides acommon room like a barn, where all must herd together; and neither chair, nor table, nor food to be had. It was a solitary-looking house, standinglonely on the plain, with a few straggling sheep nibbling the brown grassin the vicinity. A fine spring of water from which it takes its name, andOrizaya, which seems to have travelled forward, and stands in bold outlineagainst the sapphire sky, were all that we saw there worthy notice. 

We changed horses at Nopaluca, Acagete and Amosoque, all small villages, with little more than the POSADA, and a few poor houses, and all verydirty. The country, however, improves in cultivation and fertility, thoughthe chief trees are the sombre pines. Still accompanied by our two escorts, which had a very grandiloquent effect, we entered, by four o'clock, Pueblade los Angeles, the second city to Mexico (after Guadalajara) in therepublic, where we found very fine apartments prepared for us in the inn, and where, after a short rest and a fresh toilet, we went out to see whatwe could of the city before it grew dusk, before it actually became what itnow is, CHRISTMAS-EVE!

It certainly does require some time for the eye to become accustomed to thestyle of building adopted in the Spanish colonies. There is something atfirst sight exceedingly desolate-looking in these great wooden doors, likethose of immense barns, the great iron-barred windows, the ill-pavedcourtyards, even the flat roofs; and then the streets, where, though thisis a fête-day, we see nothing but groups of peasants or of beggars--thewhole gives the idea of a total absence of comfort. Yet the streets ofPuebla are clean and regular, the houses large, the cathedral magnificent, and the plaza spacious and handsome. 

The cathedral was shut, and is not to be opened till midnight mass, which Iregret the less as we must probably return here some day. 

The dress of the Poblana peasants is pretty, especially on fête-days. Awhite muslin chemise, trimmed with lace round the skirt, neck, and sleeves, which are plaited neatly; a petticoat shorter than the chemise, and dividedinto two colours, the lower part made generally of a scarlet and blackstuff, a manufacture of the country, and the upper part of yellow satin, with a satin vest of some bright colour, and covered with gold or silver, open in front, and turned back. This vest may be worn or omitted, as suitsthe taste of the wearer. It is without sleeves, but has straps; the hairplaited in two behind, and the plaits turned up and fastened together by adiamond ring; long earrings, and all sorts of chains and medals andtinkling things worn round the neck. A long, broad, coloured sash, something like an officer's belt, tied behind after going twice or thriceround the waist, into which is stuck a silver cigar-case. A small colouredhandkerchief like a broad ribbon, crossing over the neck, is fastened infront with a brooch, the ends trimmed with silver, and going through thesash. Over all is thrown a reboso, not over the head, but thrown on like ascarf; and they wear silk stockings, or more commonly no stockings, andwhite satin shoes trimmed with silver. 

This is on holidays. On common occasions, the dress is the same, but thematerials are more common, at least the vest with silver is never worn; butthe chemise is still trimmed with lace, and the shoes are satin. 

Christmas-eve in Puebla! The room is filled with visitors, who have come tocongratulate C---n on his arrival, and a wonderfully handsome room it is, to do it justice, with chairs and sofas of scarlet stuff. But I was anxiousto see _something_. As we are to leave Puebla very early, I am prohibitedfrom going to the midnight mass. I proposed the theatre, where there is tobe a _Nacimiento_, a representation in figures of various events connectedwith the Birth of Christ; such as the Annunciation, the Holy Family, theArrival of the Wise Men of the East, etc. But after some deliberation, itwas agreed that this would not do; so finding that there is nothing to bedone, and tired of polite conversation, I betake myself to bed. 

Christmas-day. 

It is now about three o'clock, but I was awakened an hour ago by the soundsof the hymns which ushered in Christmas morning; and looking from thewindow, saw, by the faint light, bands of girls dressed in white, singingin chorus through the streets. 

We have just taken chocolate, and, amidst a profusion of bows andcivilities from the landlord, are preparing to set off for Mexico. 

LETTER THE SIXTH

Departure from Puebla--Chirimoyas--Rio Frio--Indian Game--BlackForest--Valley of Mexico--Recollections of Tenochtitlan--MexicanOfficer--Reception--Scenery--Variety of Dresses--Cheers--Storm ofRain--Entry to Mexico--Buenavista--House by Daylight--Sights from theWindows--Visits--Mexican Etiquette--Countess C----a--Flowers inDecember--Serenade--Patriotic Hymn. 

Mexico, 26th December. 

We left Puebla between four and five in the morning, as we purposely madesome delay, not wishing to reach Mexico too early; and in so doing, actedcontrary to the advice of Don Miguel, who was generally right in thesematters. The day was very fine when we set off, though rain was predicted. Some of the gentlemen had gone to the theatre the night before, to see the_Nacimiento_, and the audience had been composed entirely of _Gentuza_, thecommon people, who were drinking brandy and smoking; so it was fortunatethat we had not shown our faces there. 

The country was now flat but fertile, and had on the whole more of aEuropean look than any we had yet passed through. 

At Rio Prieto, a small village, where we changed horses, I found that I hadbeen sitting very comfortably with my feet in a basket of chirimoyas, andthat my bordequins, white gown, and cloak, had been all drenched with themilky juice, and then made black by the floor of the diligence. 

With no small difficulty a trunk was brought down, and another dressprocured, to the great amusement of the Indian women, who begged to know ifmy gown was the _last fashion_, and said it was "_muy guapa, _" very pretty. Here we found good hot coffee, and it being Christmas-day, every one wascleaned and dressed for mass. 

At Rio Frio, which is about thirteen leagues from Mexico, and where thereis a pretty good posada in a valley surrounded by woods, we stopped todine. The inn was kept by a Bordelaise and her husband, who wish themselvesin Bordeaux twenty times a day. In front of the house some Indians wereplaying at a curious and very ancient game--a sort of swing, resembling"_El Juego de los Voladores, _" "The game of the flyers, " much in vogueamongst the ancient Mexicans. Our French hostess gave us a good dinner, especially excellent potatoes, and jelly of various sorts, regaling us withplenty of stories of robbers and robberies and horrid murders all thewhile. On leaving Rio Frio, the road became more hilly and covered withwoods, and we shortly entered the tract known by the name of the BlackForest, a great haunt for banditti, and a beautiful specimen of forestscenery, a succession of lofty oaks, pines, and cedars, with wild flowerslighting up their gloomy green. But I confess that the impatience which Ifelt to see Mexico, the idea that in a few hours we should actually bethere, prevented me from enjoying the beauty of the scenery, and made theroad appear interminable. 

But at length we arrived at the heights looking down upon the great valley, celebrated in all parts of the world, with its framework of everlastingmountains, its snow-crowned volcanoes, great lakes, and fertile plains, all surrounding the favoured city of Montezuma, the proudest boast of hisconqueror, once of Spain's many diadems the brightest. But the day hadovercast, nor is this the most favourable road for entering Mexico. Theinnumerable spires of the distant city were faintly seen. The volcanoeswere enveloped in clouds, all but their snowy summits, which seemed likemarble domes towering into the sky. But as we strained our eyes to lookinto the valley, it all appeared to me rather like a vision of the Pastthan the actual breathing Present. The curtain of Time seemed to roll back, and to discover to us the great panorama that burst upon the eye of Corteswhen he first looked down upon the table-land; the king-loving, God-fearingconqueror, his loyalty and religion so blended after the fashion of ancientSpain, that it were hard to say which sentiment exercised over him thegreater sway. The city of Tenochtitlan, standing in the midst of the fivegreat lakes, upon verdant and flower-covered islands, a western Venice, with thousands of boats gliding swiftly along its streets, long lines oflow houses, diversified by the multitudes of pyramidal temples, theTeocalli, or houses of God--canoes covering the mirrored lakes--the loftytrees, the flowers, and the profusion of water now wanting to thelandscape--the whole fertile valley enclosed by its eternal hills andsnow-crowned volcanoes--what scenes of wonder and of beauty to burst uponthe eyes of these wayfaring men!

Then the beautiful gardens surrounding the city, the profusion of flowers, and fruit, and birds--the mild bronze-coloured Emperor himself advancing inthe midst of his Indian nobility, with rich dress and unshod feet, toreceive his unbidden and unwelcome guest--the slaves and the gold and therich plumes, all to be laid at the feet of "His most sacred Majesty"--whatpictures are called up by the recollection of the simple narrative ofCortes, and how forcibly they return to the mind now, when, after a lapseof three centuries, we behold for the first time the city of palaces raisedupon the ruins of the Indian capital. It seemed scarcely possible that wewere indeed so near the conclusion of our journey, and in the midst of sodifferent a scene, only two months minus two days since leaving New Yorkand stepping aboard the Norma. How much land and sea we had passed oversince then! How much we had seen! How many different climates, even in thespace of the last four days!

But my thoughts which had wandered three centuries into the past, were soonrecalled to the present by the arrival of an officer in full uniform at thehead of his troop, who came out by order of the government to welcome thebearer of the olive-branch from ancient Spain, and had been on horsebacksince the day before, expecting our arrival. As it had begun to rain, theofficer, Colonel Miguel Andrade, accepted our offer of taking shelter inthe diligence. We had now a great troop galloping along with us, and hadnot gone far before we perceived that in spite of the rain, and that italready began to grow dusk, there were innumerable carriages and horsemenforming an immense crowd, all coming out to welcome us. Shortly after thediligence was stopped, and we were requested to get into a very splendidcarriage, all crimson and gold, with the arms of the republic, the eagleand nopal, embroidered in gold on the roof inside, and drawn by fourhandsome white horses. In the midst of this immense procession of troops, carriages, and horsemen, we made our entry into the city of Montezuma. 

The scenery on this side of Mexico is arid and flat, and where the watersof the Lagunas, covered with their gay canoes, once surrounded the city, forming canals through its streets, we now see melancholy marshy lands, little enlivened by great flights of wild duck and waterfowl. But thebleakness of the natural scenery was concealed by the gay appearance of theprocession--the scarlet and gold uniforms, the bright-coloured sarapes, thedresses of the gentlemen (most, I believe, Spaniards), with their handsomehorses, high Mexican saddles, gold-embroidered _anqueras_ generally ofblack fur, their Mexican hats ornamented with gold, richly-furred jackets, pantaloons with hanging silver buttons, stamped-leather boots, silverstirrups, and graceful mangas with black or coloured velvet capes. 

At the gates of Mexico the troops halted, and three enthusiastic cheerswere given as the carriage entered. It was now nearly dusk, and the rainwas falling in torrents, yet we met more carriages full of ladies andgentlemen, which joined the others. We found that a house, in the suburbsat Buenavista, had been taken for us _provisoirement_ by the kindness ofthe Spaniards, especially of a rich merchant who accompanied us in thecarriage, Don M---l M---z del C---o; consequently we passed all throughMexico before reaching our destination, always in the midst of the crowd, on account of which and of the ill-paved streets we went very slowly. Through the rain and the darkness we got an occasional faint lamp-lightglimpse of high buildings, churches, and convents. Arrived at length in themidst of torrents of rain, C---n got out of the carriage and returnedthanks for his reception, giving some ounces to the sergeant for thesoldiers. We then entered the house, accompanied by the Mexican officer, and by a large party of Spaniards. 

We found the house very good, especially considering that it had beenfurnished for us in eight-and-forty hours, and we also found an excellentsupper smoking on the table; after doing justice to which we took leave ofour friends, and, very tired, prepared for sleep. 

The servants and luggage arrived late. They had been left with thediligence, under the guardianship of Don Miguel, and it appeared that therobbers had mingled with the crowd, and followed in hopes of plunder;insomuch that he had been obliged to procure two carriages, one for theservants, while into another he put the luggage, mounting in front himselfto look out. Tired enough the poor man was, and drenched with rain; and wefound that much of this confusion and difficulty, which was chiefly causedby the storm and darkness, would have been avoided had we left Puebla somehours sooner. 

However, "All's well that ends well. " I thought of Christmas in "MerrieEngland, " and of our family gatherings in the olden time, and as if one hadnot travelled enough in the body, began travelling in the mind, away to fardifferent, and distant, and long gone-by scenes, fell asleep at length withmy thoughts in Scotland, and wakened in Mexico!

By daylight we find our house very pretty, with a large garden adjoining, full of flowers, and rosebushes in the courtyard, but being all on theground-floor, it is somewhat damp, and the weather, though beautiful, is socool in the morning, that carpets, and I sometimes think even a _soupcon_of fire, would not be amiss. The former we shall soon procure, but thereare neither chimneys nor grates, and I have no doubt a fire would bedisagreeable for more than an hour or so in the morning. The house standsalone, with a large court before it, and opposite to it passes the greatstone aqueduct, a magnificent work of the Spaniards, though not more so, probably, than those which supplied the ancient Tenochtitlan with water. Behind it we see nothing but several old houses, with trees, so that weseem almost in the country. To the right is one large building, with gardenand olive-ground, where the English legation formerly lived, a palace insize, since occupied by Santa Anna, and which now belongs to Señor PerezGalvez; a house which we shall be glad to have, if the proprietor willconsent to let it. 

But what most attracts our attention are the curious and picturesque groupsof figures which we see from the windows--men bronze-colour, with nothingbut a piece of blanket thrown round them, carrying lightly on their headsearthen basins, precisely the colour of their own skin, so that they lookaltogether like figures of terra cotta: these basins filled with sweetmeatsor white pyramids of grease (_mantequilla_); women with rebosos, shortpetticoats of two colours, generally all in rags, yet with a lace borderappearing on their under garment: no stockings, and dirty white satinshoes, rather shorter than their small brown feet; gentlemen on horsebackwith their Mexican saddles and sarapes; lounging _léperos_, moving bundlesof rags, coming to the windows and begging with a most piteous but falsesounding whine, or lying under the arches and lazily inhaling the air andthe sunshine, or sitting at the door for hours basking in the sun or underthe shadow of the wall: Indian women, with their tight petticoat of darkstuff and tangled hair, plaited with red ribbon, laying down their basketsto rest, and meanwhile deliberately _examining_ the hair of their copper-coloured offspring. We have enough to engage our attention for the present. 

Several visitors came early--gentlemen, both Spaniards and Mexicans. SeñorA---z, decidedly the ugliest man I ever beheld, with a hump on his back, and a smile of most portentous hideosity, yet celebrated for his _bonnesfortunes_; Señor de G---a, Ex-Minister of the Treasury, extremely witty andagreeable, and with some celebrity as a dramatic writer; Count C---a, formerly attached to the bedchamber in Spain, married to a prettyAndalusian, and entirely Mexicanized, his heart where his interests are. Heis very gentlemanlike and distinguished-looking, with good manners, andextremely eloquent in conversation. I hear him called "_inconsecuente_, "and capricious, but he has welcomed C---n, who knew him intimately inMadrid, with all the warmth of ancient friendship. 

We are told that a great serenade has been for some time in contemplation, to be given to C---n, the words, music, and performance by the youngSpaniards here. 

27th. --A day or two must elapse before I can satisfy my curiosity by goingout, while the necessary arrangements are making concerning carriage andhorses, or mules, servants, etc. ; our vehicles from the United States nothaving yet arrived, --nor is it difficult to foresee, even from once passingthrough the streets, that only the more solid-built English carriages willstand the wear and tear of a Mexican life, and that the comparativelyflimsy coaches which roll over the well-paved streets of New York, will notendure for any length of time. 

Meanwhile we have constant visits, but chiefly from gentlemen and fromSpaniards, for there is one piece of etiquette, entirely Mexican, nor can Iimagine from whence derived, by which it is ordained that all new arrivals, whatever be their rank, foreign Ministers not excepted, must in solemnprint give notice to every family of any consideration in the capital, thatthey have arrived, and offer themselves and their house to their"_disposición_;" failing in which etiquette, the newly-arrived family willremain unnoticed and unknown. Our cards to this effect are consequentlybeing printed under the auspices of Count C---a. I have, however, receivedthe visits of some ladies who have kindly waived this ceremony in myfavour; and amongst others, from the Dowager and the young Countess ofC---a; the eldest a very distinguished woman, of great natural talent, oneof the true ladies of the old school, of whom not many specimens now remainin Mexico; the other extremely pretty, lively, and amiable, a trueAndalusian both in beauty and wit. The old Countess was dressed in blackvelvet, black blonde mantilla, diamond earrings and brooch--her daughter-in-law also in black, with a mantilla, and she had a pretty little daughterwith her, whose eyes will certainly produce a kindling effect on the nextgeneration. 

They were both extremely kind and cordial; if there are many such personsin Mexico, we shall have no reason to complain. I hope I am not seeing thecream before the milk!

Some Mexican visits appear to me to surpass in duration all that one canimagine of a visit, rarely lasting less than one hour, and sometimesextending over a greater part of the day. And gentlemen, at least, arriveat no particular time. If you are going to breakfast, they go also--if todinner, the same--if you are asleep, they wait till you awaken--if out, they call again. An indifferent sort of man, whose name I did not evenhear, arrived yesterday, a little after breakfast, sat still, and walked into a late dinner with us! These should not be called visits, butvisitations, --though I trust they do not often occur to that extent. Anopen house and an open table for your friends, which includes every passingacquaintance; these are merely Spanish habits of hospitality transplanted. 

Had a visit from Señor ----- and his wife, very civil and obliging people, always agreeing with each other, and with you, and with all the world, almost to the extent of Polonius to Hamlet. Our conversation reminded me ofthat the whole time they were here. 

I have just brought from the garden a lapful of pink roses, clove-carnations, and sweet-peas. Rosetta could not sing here--

 "For June and December will never agree. "

The weather is lovely, the air fresh and clear, the sky one vast expanse ofbright blue, without a single cloud. Early this morning it was cool, butnow, by ten o'clock, the air is as soft and balmy as on a summer-day withus. 

28th. --Day of the memorable serenade. After dinner some ladies paid me avisit, amongst others the wife and daughter of the Spanish consul, SeñorM---y, who were accompanied by the sister of Count A---a. They and a fewgentlemen arrived about six o'clock, and it was said that the serenadewould not begin till twelve. It may be supposed that our conversation, however agreeable it might be, would scarcely hold out that time. In fact, by nine o'clock, we were all nearly overcome by sleep, and by ten I believewe were already in a refreshing slumber, when we were awakened by the soundof crowds assembling before the door, and of carriages arriving andstopping. Not knowing who the occupants might be, we could not invite themin, which seemed very inhospitable, as the night, though fine, was cold andchilly. About eleven the Count and Countess C---a arrived, and the Señorade G----, a remarkably handsome woman, a Spaniard, looking nearly as youngas her daughters; also the pretty daughters of the proprietress of thishouse, who was a beauty, and is married to her third husband; and a livelylittle talkative person, the Señora de L---n, all Spanish; and who, some onthat account, and others from their husbands having been former friends ofC---n's have not waited for the ceremony of receiving cards. Gradually, however, several Mexican ladies, whom we had sent out to invite, came in. Others remained in their carriages, excusing themselves on the plea oftheir not being _en toilette_. We had men _à discrétion_, and the roomswere crowded. 

About midnight arrived a troop of Mexican soldiers, carrying torches, and amultitude of musicians, both amateur and professional, chiefly the former, and men carrying music-stands, violins, violoncellos, French horns, etc. , together with an immense crowd, mingled with numbers of léperos, so thatthe great space in front of the house as far as the aqueduct, and allbeyond and along the street as far as we could see, was covered with peopleand carriages. We threw open the windows, which are on a level with theground, with large balconies and wide iron gratings, and the scene by thetorch-light was very curious. The Mexican troops holding lights for themusicians, and they of various countries, Spanish, German, and Mexican; theléperos, with their ragged blankets and wild eyes, that gleamed in thelight of the torches; the ladies within, and the crowd without, all formeda very amusing _spectacle_. 

At length the musicians struck up in full chorus, accompanied by the wholeorchestra. The voices were very fine, and the instrumental music so good, Icould hardly believe that almost all were amateur performers. 

A hymn, which had been composed for the occasion, and of which we hadreceived an elegantly-bound copy in the morning, was particularlyeffective. The music was composed by Señor Retes, and the words by SeñorCovo, both Spaniards. Various overtures from the last operas were played, and at the end of what seemed to be the first act, in the midst ofdeafening applause from the crowd, C---n made me return thanks from thewindow in beautiful impromptu Spanish! Then came shouts of "Viva laEspana!" "Viva Ysabel Segunda!" "Viva el Ministro de Espana!" Great andcontinued cheering. Then C---n gave in return, "Viva la RepublicaMexicana!" "Viva Bustamente!" and the shouting was tremendous. At last anAndalusian in the crowd shouted out, "Viva todo el Mundo!" (Long liveeverybody), which piece of wit was followed by general laughter. 

After hot punch and cigars had been handed about out of doors, a necessaryrefreshment in this cold night, the music recommenced, and the whole endedwith the national hymn of Spain, with appropriate words. A young Spanishgirl, whose voice is celebrated here, was then entreated by those within, and beseeched by those without, to sing alone the hymn composed in honourof C---n, which she naturally felt some hesitation in doing before such animmense audience. However, she consented at last, and in a voice like aclarion, accompanied by the orchestra, sung each verse alone, joined in thechorus by the whole crowd. I give you a copy:

Himno Patriotico que varios Espanoles, Residentes en Mexico, dedican alEsmo. Sr. Don A---- C---- de la B----, Ministro Plenipotenciario de S. M. C. En la República, con Motivo de su Llegada a dicha Capital. 

Música del Sr. J. N. DE RETES; Palabras del Sr. DN. JUAN COVO. 

CORO. 

 Triunfamos, amigos, Triunfamos enfin, Y libre respir La Patria del Cid. 

 La augusta _Cristina_, De Espana embeleso, El mas tierno beso Imprime á _Ysabel_: Y "Reina, " le dice, "No ya sobre esclavos; Sobre Iberos bravos, Sobre un pueblo fiel. "

 Triunfamos, amigos, etc. 

 Donde está de Carlos La perfida hueste? Un rayo celeste Polvo la tornó. Rayo que al malvado Hundio en el abismo-- Rayo que al Carlismo _Libertad_ lanzó. 

 Triunfamos, amigos, etc. 

 Al bravo Caudillo, Al bueno, al valiente, Ciñamos la frente De mirto y laurel. Tu diestra animosa, Heroico guerrero, Tu _diestra, Espartero_, Sojuzgó al infiel. 

 Triunfamos, amigos, etc. 

 Veranse acatadas Nuestras santas leyes; Temblarán los Reyes De España al poder. Y el cetro de oprobrio, Si empuna un tirano, De su infame mano Le harémos caer. 

 Triunfamos, amigos, etc. 

 Salud á _Ysabela_, Salud á _Cristina_, Quel el cielo destina La patria á salvar. Y el libre corone La candida frente De aquella inocente Que juró amparar. Triunfamos, amigos, etc. 

 Y tu, mensagero De paz y ventura, Oye la voz pura De nuestra lealtad. Oye los acentos Que al cielo elevamos, Oye cual gritamos, _Patria! Libertad!_

 Triunfamos, amigos, etc. 

 Tu el simbolo digno Serás, C---n, De grata reunion, De eterna amistad, Que ya, en ambos mundos, La insana discordía Trocóse en concordía Y fraternidad. 

 Triunfamos, amigos, etc. 

TRANSLATION. 

Patriotic Hymn which various Spaniards, resident in Mexico, dedicate to hisExcellency Señor Don A---- C---- de la B----, Minister Plenipotentiary andEnvoy Extraordinary from H. C. M. To the Republic, to celebrate his arrivalin this Capital. 

The music by Señor Don J. N. De Retes; the words by Señor Don Juan Covo. 

CHORUS. 

 Let us triumph, my friends, Let us triumph at length, And let the country of the Cid Breathe freely again. 

 The august Christina, The ornament of Spain, Imprinted the most tender kiss On the cheek of Isabel. And "Reign, " she said to her, "Not now over slaves, But over _brave Iberians_, Over a faithful people!"

 Let us triumph, my friends, etc. 

 Where is the perfidious Army of Carlos? A celestial thunderbolt Has turned it to dust-- A thunderbolt which plunged The wicked one into the abyss-- A thunderbolt which _Liberty_ Launched against Carlism. 

 Let us triumph, my friends, etc. 

 Of the brave chief, Of the good, the valiant, Let us gird the forehead With myrtle and laurel. Thy brave right hand, Heroic warrior, Thy right hand, _Espartero_, Subdued the disloyal one. 

 Let us triumph, my friends, etc. 

 Our holy laws Will be acknowledged, And kings will tremble At the power of Spain; And should a tyrant grasp The sceptre of opprobrium, From his infamous hand We shall cause it to fall. 

 Let us triumph, my friends, etc. 

 Health to _Isabella_, Health to _Christina_, Whom Heaven has destined To save the country; And may he freely crown The white forehead Of the innocent princess He swore to protect. 

 Let us triumph, my friends, etc. 

 And thou, messenger Of peace and joy, Hear the pure voice Of our loyalty; Hear the accents Which we raise to Heaven; Hear what we cry, _Country_! _Liberty_!

 Let us triumph, my friends, etc. 

 Thou, C---n, shalt be The worthy symbol Of grateful reunion, Of eternal friendship, Which already has changed, In both worlds, Insane discord Into concord and fraternity. 

 Let us triumph, my friends, etc. 

The air was rent with vivas! and bravos! as the Señorita de F----concluded. Her voice was beautiful, and after the first moment ofembarrassment, she sang with much spirit and enthusiasm. This was thefinale of the serenade, and then the serenaders were invited in, and werein such numbers that the room would scarcely hold them all. More cigars, more punch, more giving of thanks. About three o'clock the crowd began todisperse, and at length, after those Spanish leave-takings, which arereally no joke, had ended, Captain E----, C---n, and I, all threeexcessively cold and shivering, having passed the night at the openwindows, consoled ourselves with hot chocolate and punch, and went to dreamof sweet-sounding harmonies. Altogether, it was a scene which I would nothave missed for a great deal. 

The enthusiasm caused by the arrival of the first Minister from Spain seemsgradually to increase. The actors are to give him a "_funciónextraordinaria_, " in the theatre--the matadors a bull-fight extraordinary, with fireworks. . . . But in all this you must not suppose there is anypersonal compliment. It is merely intended as a mark of good will towardsthe first representative of the Spanish monarchy who brings from themother-country the formal acknowledgment of Mexican independence. 

LETTER THE SEVENTH

Debut in Mexico--Cathedral--Temple of the Aztecs--Congregation--Stone ofSacrifices--Palace--Importunate Léperos--Visit to the President--CountessC---a--Street-cries--Tortilleras--_Sartor Resartus_. 

I made my _début_ in Mexico by going to mass in the cathedral. We drovethrough the Alameda, near which we live, and admired its noble trees, flowers, and fountains, all sparkling in the sun. We met but few carriagesthere, an occasional gentleman on horseback, and a few solitary-lookingpeople resting on the stone benches, also plenty of beggars, and the_forçats_ in chains, watering the avenues. We passed through the Calle SanFrancisco, the handsomest street in Mexico, both as to shops and houses(containing, amongst others, the richly-carved but now half-ruined palaceof Yturbide), and which terminates in the great square where stand thecathedral and the palace. The streets were crowded, it being a holiday; andthe purity of the atmosphere, with the sun pouring down upon thebright-coloured groups, and these groups so picturesque, whether ofsoldiers or monks, peasants or veiled ladies; the very irregularity of thebuildings, the number of fine churches and old convents, and everything onso grand a scale, even though touched by the finger of time, or crushed bythe iron heel of revolution, that the attention is constantly kept alive, and the interest excited. 

The carriage drew up in front of the cathedral, built upon the site of partof the ruins of the great temple of the Aztecs; of that pyramidal temple, constructed by _Ahuitzotli_, the sanctuary so celebrated by the Spaniards, and which comprehended with all its different edifices and sanctuaries, theground on which the cathedral now stands, together with part of the plazaand streets adjoining. 

We are told, that within its enclosure were five hundred dwellings, thatits hall was built of stone and lime, and ornamented with stone serpents. We hear of its four great gates, fronting the four cardinal points of itsstone-paved court, great stone stairs, and sanctuaries dedicated to thegods of war; of the square destined for religious dances, and the collegesfor the priests, and seminaries for the priestesses; of the horribletemple, whose door was an enormous serpent's mouth; of the temple ofmirrors and that of shells; of the house set apart for the emperor'sprayers; of the consecrated fountains, the birds kept for sacrifice, thegardens for the holy flowers, and of the terrible towers composed of theskulls of the victims--strange mixture of the beautiful and the horrible!We are told that five thousand priests chanted night and day in the GreatTemple, to the honour and in the service of the monstrous idols, who wereanointed thrice a day with the most precious perfumes; and that of thesepriests the most austere were clothed in black, their long hair dyed withink, and their bodies anointed with the ashes of burnt scorpions andspiders; their chiefs were the sons of kings. 

It is remarkable, by the way, that their god of war, _Mejitli_, was said tohave been born of a woman, _a Holy Virgin_, who was in the service of thetemple; and that when the priests, having knowledge of her disgrace, wouldhave stoned her, a voice was heard, saying, "Fear not, mother, for I shallsave thy honour and my glory, " upon which the god was born, with a shieldin his left hand, an arrow in his right, a plume of green feathers on hishead, his face painted blue, and his left leg adorned with feathers! Thuswas his gigantic statue represented. 

There were gods of the Water, of the Earth, of Night, Fire, and Hell;goddesses of Flowers and of Corn: there were oblations offered of bread andflowers and jewels, but we are assured that from twenty to fifty thousandhuman victims were sacrificed annually in Mexico alone! That these accountsare exaggerated, even though a bishop is among the narrators, we canscarcely doubt; but if the tenth part be truth, let the memory of Cortes besacred, who, with the cross, stopped the shedding of innocent blood, founded the cathedral on the ruins of the temple which had so oftenresounded with human groans, and in the place of these blood-smeared idolsenshrined the mild form of the Virgin. 

Meanwhile we entered the Christian edifice, which covers an immense spaceof ground, is of the Gothic form, with two lofty ornamented towers, and isstill immensely rich in gold, silver, and jewels. A balustrade runningthrough it, which was brought from China, is said to be very valuable, butseems to me more curious than beautiful. It is a composition of brass andsilver. Not a soul was in the sacred precincts this morning but miserable_léperos_, in rags and blankets, mingled with women in ragged_rebosos_;--at least a sprinkling of ladies with mantillas was so veryslight, that I do not think there were half a dozen in all. The floor is sodirty that one kneels with a feeling of horror, and an inward determinationto effect as speedy a change of garments afterwards as possible. Besides, many of my Indian neighbours were engaged in an occupation which I mustleave to your imagination; in fact, relieving their heads from the pressureof the colonial system, or rather, eradicating and slaughtering thecolonists, who swarm there like the emigrant Irish in the United States. Iwas not sorry to find myself once more in the pure air after mass; and havesince been told that, except on peculiar ocasions, and at certain hours, few ladies perform their devotions in the cathedral. I shall learn allthese particulars in time. 

We saw, as we passed out, the Aztec Calendar, --a round stone covered withhieroglyphics, which is still preserved and fastened on the outside of thecathedral. We afterwards saw the Stone of Sacrifices, now in the courtyardof the university, with a hollow in the middle, in which the victim waslaid, while six priests, dressed in red, their heads adorned with plumes ofgreen feathers (they must have looked like macaws), with gold and greenearrings, and blue stones in their upper lips, held him down while thechief priest cut open his breast, threw his heart at the feet of the idol, and afterwards put it into his mouth with a golden spoon. They then cut offhis head, to make use of it in building the tower of skulls, eat some partsof him, and either burnt the rest, or threw it to the wild beasts who weremaintained in the palace. 

These interesting particulars occurred to us as we looked at the stone, andwe were not sorry to think that it is now more ornamental than useful. 

After leaving the cathedral, C---n fastened on his orders in the carriage, as this day was appointed for his presentation to the President, and wedrove to the place, where I left him, and returned home. He was receivedwith great etiquette, a band of music playing in the court, the Presidentin full uniform, surrounded by all his Ministers and aides-de-camp, standing before a throne, under a velvet dais, his feet upon a tabouret, the whole being probably the same as was used by the viceroys. _Viva laRepublica!_ C---n made a discourse to him, and he made one in return, bothof which may be found by those who are curious in these matters, in the_Díario_ of the 31st December. . . . 

Whilst I am writing a horrible lépero, with great leering eyes, is lookingat me through the windows, and performing the most extraordinary series ofgroans, displaying at the same time a hand with two long fingers, probablythe other three tied in. "Señorita! Señorita! For the love of the most HolyVirgin! For the sake of the most pure blood of Christ! By the miraculousConception!--" The wretch! I dare not look up, but I feel that his eyes arefixed upon a gold watch and seals lying on the table. That is the worst ofa house on the ground floor. . . . There come more of them! A paralytic womanmounted on the back of a man with a long beard. A sturdy-lookingindividual, who looks as if, were it not for the iron bars, he would resortto more effective measures, is holding up a _deformed foot, _ which I verilybelieve is merely fastened back in some extraordinary way. What groans!what rags! what a chorus of whining! This concourse is probably owing toour having sent them some money yesterday. I try to take no notice, andwrite on as if I were deaf. I must walk out of the room, without lookingbehind me, and send the porter to disperse them. There are no bell-ropes inthese parts. . . . 

I come back again to write, hardly recovered from the start that I havejust got. I had hardly written the last words, when I heard a footstep nearme, and, looking up, lo! there was my friend with _the foot, _ standingwithin a yard of me, his hand stretched out for alms! I was so frightened, that for a moment I thought of giving him my watch, to get rid of him. However, I glided past him with a few unintelligible words, and rushed tocall the servants; sending him some money by the first person who came. Theporter, who had not seen him pass, is now dispersing the crowd. Whatvociferous exclamations! A---- has come in and drawn the curtains, and Ithink they are going off. 

Yesterday evening I was taken to visit the President. The palace is animmense building, containing, besides the apartments of the President andhis Ministers, all the chief courts of justice. It occupies one side of thesquare, but is no way remarkable in its architecture. At the end of everyflight of steps that we mounted we came upon lounging soldiers, in theiryellow cloaks, and women in rebosos, standing about. We passed through ahall filled with soldiers, into the antechamber, where we were received byseveral aides-de-camp, who conducted us into a very well-furnished room, where we sat a few minutes, till an officer came to lead us into thereception-room, which is a handsome apartment, about a hundred feet long, and fitted up with crimson and gold, also well lighted. General Bustamante, now in plain clothes, gave us a very cordial reception. 

He looks like a good man, with an honest, benevolent face, frank and simplein his manners, and not at all like a hero. His conversation was notbrilliant, indeed I do not know apropos to what, I suppose to the climate, but it chiefly turned on _medicine_. There cannot be a greater contrast, both in appearance and reality, than between him and Santa Anna. There isno lurking devil in his eye. All is frank, open, and unreserved. It isimpossible to look in his face without believing him to be an honest andwell-intentioned man. An unprincipled but clever writer has said of him, that he has no great capacity or superior genius; but that, whether fromreflection or from slowness of comprehension, he is always extremely calmin his determinations: that, before entering into any project, he inquiresand considers deeply as to whether it be just or not; but that onceconvinced that it is or appears to be so, he sustains his ground withfirmness and constancy. He adds, that it suits him better to obey than tocommand; for which reason he was always so devoted a servant of theSpaniards and of Yturbide. 

He is said to be a devoted friend, is honest to a proverb, and personallybrave, though occasionally deficient in moral energy. He is therefore anestimable man, and one who will do his duty to the best of his ability, though whether he has severity and energy sufficient for those evil days inwhich it is his lot to govern, may be problematical. 

Having made a sufficiently long visit to his Excellency, we went to returnthat of the Countess C----, who has a magnificent house, with suites oflarge rooms, of which the drawing-room is particularly handsome, of immensesize, the walls beautifully painted, the subjects religious, and where Ifound one of Broadwood's finest grand pianos. But although there arecabinets inlaid with gold, fine paintings, and hundreds of rich and curiousthings, our European eyes are struck with numerous inconsistencies indress, servants, etc. , in all of which there is a want of keeping veryremarkable. Yet this house, and the one adjoining, which also belongs tothe family, are palaces in vastness, and the Countess receives me more asif I were her daughter, than a person with whom she has been acquainted buta few days. 

There are an extraordinary number of street-cries in Mexico, which begin atdawn and continue till night, performed by hundreds of discordant voices, impossible to understand at first; but Señor ----- has been giving me anexplanation of them, until I begin to have some distinct idea of theirmeaning. At dawn you are awakened by the shrill and desponding cry of theCarbonero, the coalmen, "Carbón, Señor?" which, as he pronounces it, soundslike "Carbosiu?" Then the grease-man takes up the song, "Mantequilla! lard!lard! at one real and a half. " "Salt beef! good salt beef!" ("Cecinabuena!") interrupts the butcher in a hoarse voice. "Hay cebo-o-o-o-o-o?"This is the prolonged and melancholy note of the woman who buys kitchen-stuff, and stops before the door. Then passes by the _cambista, _ a sort ofIndian she-trader or exchanger, who sings out, "Tejocotes por venas dechile?" a small fruit which she proposes exchanging for hot peppers. Noharm in that. 

A kind of ambulating pedler drowns the shrill treble of the Indian cry. Hecalls aloud upon the public to buy needles, pins, thimbles, shirt-buttons, tape, cotton-balls, small mirrors, etc. He enters the house, and is quicklysurrounded by the women, young and old, offering him the tenth part of whathe asks, and which, after much haggling, he accepts. Behind him stands theIndian with his tempting baskets of fruit, of which he calls out all thenames, till the cook or housekeeper can resist no longer, and putting herhead over the balustrade, calls him up with his bananas, and oranges, andgranaditas, etc. 

A sharp note of interrogation is heard, indicating something that is hot, and must be snapped up quickly before it cools. "Gorditas de hornacaliente?" "Little fat cakes from the oven, hot?" This is in a female key, sharp and shrill. Follows the mat-seller. "Who wants mats from Puebla? matsof five yards?" These are the most matinal cries. 

At midday the beggars begin to be particularly importunate, and theircries, and prayers, and long recitations, form a running accompaniment tothe other noises. Then above all rises the cry of "Honey-cakes!" "Cheeseand honey?" "Requesón and good honey?" (_Requesón_ being a sort of hardcurd, sold in cheeses. ) Then come the dulce-men, the sellers of sweetmeats, of meringues, which are very good, and of all sorts of candy. "Caramelos deesperma! bocadillo de coco!" Then the lottery-men, the messengers ofFortune, with their shouts of "The last ticket yet unsold, for half areal!" a tempting announcement to the lazy beggar, who finds it easier togamble than to work, and who may have that sum hid about his rags. 

Towards evening rises the cry of "Tortillas de cuajada?" "Curd-cakes?" or, "Do you take nuts?" succeeded by the night-cry of "Chestnuts hot androasted!" and by the affectionate vendors of ducks; "Ducks, oh my soul, hotducks!" "Maize-cakes, " etc. , etc. As the night wears away, the voices dieoff, to resume next morning in fresh vigour. 

Tortillas, which are the common food of the people, and which are merelymaize cakes mixed with a little lime, and of the form and size of what wecall _scones_, I find rather good when very hot and fresh-baked, butinsipid by themselves. They have been in use all through this country sincethe earliest ages of its history, without any change in the manner ofbaking them, excepting that, for the noble Mexicans in former days, theyused to be kneaded with various medicinal plants, supposed to render themmore wholesome. They are considered particularly palatable with _chile_, toendure which, in the quantities in which it is eaten here, it seems to menecessary to have a throat lined with tin. 

In unpacking some books to-day, I happened to take up "_Sartor Resartus_, "which, by a curious coincidence, opened of itself, to my great delight, atthe following passage:

"The simplest costume, " observes our Professor, "which I anywhere findalluded to in history, is that used as regimental by Bolivar's cavalry, inthe late Columbian wars. A square blanket, twelve feet in diagonal, isprovided, (some were wont to cut off the corners, and make it circular;) inthe centre a slit is effected, eighteen inches long; through this themother-naked trooper introduces his head and neck; and so rides, shieldedfrom all weather, and in battle from many strokes (for he rolls it abouthis left arm); and not only dressed, but harnessed and draperied. " Herethen we find the true "Old Roman contempt of the superfluous, " which seemsrather to meet the approbation of the illustrious Professor Teufelsdroch. 

LETTER THE EIGHTH

Ball in Preparation--Agreeable Family--FineVoices--Theatre--Smoking--Castle of Chapultepec--ViceroyGalvez--Montezuma's Cypress--Vice-Queen--Valley of Mexico--New Year'sDay--Opening of Congress--Visits from the Diplomatic Corps--PoblanaDress--"Function extraordinaria"--Theatre--Visit to the Cathedral ofGuadalupe--Divine Painting--Bishop-Beggars--Mosquitoes' Eggs. 

A great ball is to be given on the 8th of January, in the theatre, for thebenefit of the poor, which is to be under the patronage of the mostdistinguished ladies of Mexico. After much deliberation amongst thepatronesses, it is decided that it shall be a _bal costumé_, and I havesome thoughts of going in the Poblana dress, which I before described toyou. As I am told that the Señora G---a wore it at a ball in London, whenher husband was Minister there, I have sent my maid to learn theparticulars from her. 

We called to-day on a family nearly related to the C---as, and who havebeen already excessively kind to us; Señor A---d, who is married to adaughter of Don Francisco Tagle, a very distinguished Mexican. We found avery large, very handsome house, the walls and roof painted in the oldSpanish style, which, when well executed, has an admirable effect. The ladyof the house, who is only nineteen, I took a fancy to at first sight. Sheis not regularly beautiful, but has lovely dark eyes and eyebrows, withfair complexion and fair hair, and an expression of the most perfectgoodness, with very amiable manners. I was surprised by hearing her singseveral very difficult Italian songs with great expression and wonderfulfacility. She has a fine contralto, which has been cultivated; but someSpanish ballads, and little songs of the country, she sang so delightfully, and with so much good-nature and readiness, that had it not been a firstvisit, I should have begged her to continue during half the morning. Finevoices are said to be extremely common, as is natural in a country peopledfrom Spain; and the opera, while it lasted, contributed greatly to thecultivation of musical taste. 

In the evening we went to the theatre. Such a theatre! Dark, dirty, redolent of bad odours; the passages leading to the boxes so ill-lighted, that one is afraid in the dark to pick one's steps through them. The actingwas nearly of a piece. The first actress, who is a favourite, and whodresses well, and bears a high reputation for good conduct, is perfectlywooden, and never frightened out of her proprieties in the most tragicalscenes. I am sure there is not a fold deranged in her dress when she goeshome. Besides, she has a most remarkable trick of pursing up her mouth in asmile, and frowning at the same time with tears in her eyes, as ifpersonifying an April day, I should like to hear her sing

 "Said a smile to a tear. "

There was no applause, and half the boxes were empty, whilst those who werethere seemed merely to occupy them from the effect of habit, and becausethis is the only evening amusement. The prompter spoke so loud, that as

 "Coming events cast their shadows before. "

every word was made known to the audience in confidence, before it came outupon the stage officially. The whole pit smoked, the galleries smoked, theboxes smoked, the prompter smoked, a long stream of smoke curling from hisbox, giving something oracular and Delphic to his prophecies. 

 "The force of _smoking_ could no further go. "

The theatre is certainly unworthy of this fine city. 

3ist. --We have spent the day in visiting the castle of Chapultepec, a shortleague from Mexico, the most haunted by recollections of all thetraditionary sites of which Mexico can boast. Could these hoary cypressesspeak, what tales might they not disclose, standing there with their longgray beards, and outstretched venerable arms, century after century:al ready old when Montezuma was a boy, and still vigorous in the days ofBustamante! There has the last of the Aztec emperors wandered with hisdark-eyed harem. Under the shade of these gigantic trees he has rested, perhaps smoked his "tobacco mingled with amber, " and fallen to sleep, hisdreams unhaunted by visions of the stern traveller from the far-east, whosesails even then might be within sight of the shore. In these tanks he hasbathed. Here were his gardens, and his aviaries, and his fish-ponds. Through these now tangled and deserted woods, he may have been carried byhis young nobles in his open litter, under a splendid dais, stepping outupon the rich stuffs which his slaves spread before him on the green andvelvet turf. 

And from the very rock where the castle stands, he may have looked out uponhis fertile valley and great capital, with its canoe-covered lakes andoutspreading villages and temples, and gardens of flowers, no care for thefuture darkening the bright vision!

Tradition says, that now these caves and tanks and woods are haunted by theshade of the conqueror's Indian love, the far-famed Doña Marina, but Ithink she would be afraid of meeting with the wrathful spirit of the Indianemperor. The castle itself, modern though it be, seems like a tradition!The Viceroy Galvez, who built it, is of a bygone race! The apartments arelonely and abandoned, the walls falling to ruin, the glass of the windowsand the carved work of the doors have been sold; and standing at this greatheight, exposed to every wind that blows, it is rapidly falling to decay. We were accompanied by Count C---a, and received by a Mexican governor, whorarely resides there, and who very civilly conducted us everywhere. ButChapultepec is not a _show-place_. One must go there early in the morning, when the dew is on the grass, or in the evening, when the last rays of thesun are gilding with rosy light the snowy summits of the volcanoes; anddismount from your horse, or step out of your carriage and wander forthwithout guide or object, or fixed time for return. 

We set off early, passing over a fine paved road, divided by a great andsolid aqueduct of nine hundred arches, one of the two great aqueducts bywhich fresh water is conveyed to the city, and of which the two sources arein the hill of Chapultepec, and in that of Santa Fe, at a much greaterdistance. When we arrived, the sleepy soldiers, who were lounging beforethe gates, threw them open to let the carriage enter, and we drew up infront of the great cypress, known by the name of "Montezuma's Cypress, " amost stupendous tree--dark, solemn, and stately, its branches unmoved asthe light wind played amongst them, of most majestic height, and forty-onefeet in circumference. A second cypress standing near, and of almost equalsize, is even more graceful, and they, and all the noble trees which adornthese speaking solitudes, are covered with a creeping plant, resemblinggray moss, hanging over every branch like long gray hair, giving them amost venerable and druidical look. 

We wandered through the noble avenues, and rested under the trees, andwalked through the tangled shrubberies, bright with flowers and colouredberries, and groped our way into the cave, and stood by the large cleartank, and spent some time in the old garden; and then got again into thecarriage, that we might be dragged up the precipitous ascent on whichstands the castle, the construction of which aroused the jealousy of thegovernment against the young count, whose taste for the picturesque hadinduced him to choose this elevated site for his summer palace. 

The interior was never finished; yet, even as it stands, it cost theSpanish government three hundred thousand dollars. When we look at itsstrong military capabilities and commanding position, fortified withsalient walls and parapets towards Mexico, and containing on its northernside great moats and subterraneous vaults, capable of holding a vast supplyof provisions, the jealousy of the government, and their suspicions that itwas a fortress masked as a summer retreat, are accountable enough. 

The Vice-Queen Galvez, was celebrated for her beauty and goodness, and wasuniversally adored in Mexico. A sister of hers, who still survives, and whopaid me a visit the other day, says that her beauty chiefly consisted inthe exceeding fairness of her complexion, very few _blondes_ having thenbeen seen in this part of the world. 

From the terrace that runs round the castle, the view forms the mostmagnificent panorama that can be imagined. The whole valley of Mexico liesstretched out as in a map; the city itself, with its innumerable churchesand convents; the two great aqueducts which cross the plain; the avenues ofelms and poplars which lead to the city; the villages, lakes, and plains, which surround it. To the north, the magnificent cathedral of Our Lady ofGuadalupe--to the south, the villages of San Augustin, San Angel, andTacubaya, which seem imbosomed in trees, and look like an immense garden. And if in the plains below there are many uncultivated fields, and manybuildings falling to ruin, yet with its glorious enclosure of mountains, above which tower the two mighty volcanoes, Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, the Gog and Magog of the valley, off whose giant sides great volumes ofmisty clouds were rolling, and with its turquoise sky for ever smiling onthe scene, the whole landscape, as viewed from this height, is one ofnearly unparalleled beauty. 

1st January, 1840. --New Year's Day! The birth of the young year is usheredin by no remarkable signs of festivity. More ringing of bells, morechanting of mass, gayer dresses amongst the peasants in the streets, andmore carriages passing along, and the ladies within rather more dressedthan apparently they usually are, when they do not intend to pay visits. Inpassing through the Plaza this morning, our carriage suddenly drew up, andthe servants took off their hats. At the same moment, the whole population, men, women, and children, vendors and buyers, peasant and Señora, priestand layman, dropped on their knees, a picturesque sight. Presently a coachcame slowly along through the crowd, with the mysterious _Eye_ painted onthe panels, drawn by piebald horses, and with priests within, bearing thedivine symbols. On the balconies, in the shops, in the houses, and on thestreets, every one knelt while it passed, the little bell giving warning ofits approach. 

We were then at the door of the palace, where we went this morning to seethe opening of Congress, the two houses being included in this building. The House of Representatives, though not large, is handsome, and in goodtaste. Opposite to the presidential chair is a full-length representationof Our Lady of Guadalupe. All round the hall, which is semicircular, areinscribed the names of the heroes of independence, and that of the EmperorAugustin Yturbide is placed on the right of the presidential chair, withhis sword hanging on the wall; while on the left of the chief magistrate'sseat there is a vacant space; perhaps destined for the name of anotheremperor. The multitude of priests with their large shovel-hats, and theentrance of the president in full uniform, announced by music and aflourish of trumpets, and attended by his staff, rendered it asanti-republican-looking an assembly as one could wish to see. The utmostdecorum and tranquillity prevailed. The president made a speech in a lowand rather monotonous tone, which in the diplomate's seat, where we were, was scarcely audible. No ladies were in the house, myself excepted; which Iam glad I was not aware of before going, or I should perhaps have stayedaway. 

Yesterday I received visits from the gentlemen of the diplomatic corps, whoare not in great numbers here. England, Belgium, Prussia, and the UnitedStates, are the only countries at present represented, Spain excepted. TheFrench Minister has not arrived yet, but is expected in a few days. I wasnot sorry to hear English spoken once more, and to meet with so gentlemanlya person as the Minister who for the last fourteen years has representedour island in the Republic. His visit and a large packet of letters justreceived from Paris and from the United States, have made me feel as if thedistance from home were diminished by one-half. 

This morning a very handsome dress was forwarded to me with the complimentsof a lady whom I do not know, the wife of General---; with a request that, if I should go to the fancy ball as a Poblana peasant, I may wear thiscostume. It is a Poblana dress, and very superb, consisting of a petticoatof maroon-coloured merino, with gold fringe, gold bands and spangles; anunder-petticoat, embroidered and trimmed with rich lace, to come below it. The first petticoat is trimmed with gold up the sides, which are slit open, and tied up with coloured ribbon. With this must be worn a chemise, richlyembroidered round the neck and sleeves, and trimmed with lace; a satinvest, open in front, and embroidered in gold; a silk sash tied behind, theends fringed with gold, and a small silk handkerchief which crosses theneck, with gold fringe. I had already another dress prepared, but I thinkthis is the handsomer of the two. 

The actors have just called to inform C---n, that their "_funciónextraordinaria_" in his honour, is to be given on the third, that a box isprepared for us, and that the play is to be "Don John of Austria. "[1]

[Footnote 1: Translated from the French of Casimir Delavigne. ]

4th. --Having sat through five acts last evening in the theatre, we camehome very tired. The play was _awfully_ long, lasting from eight o'clocktill one in the morning. At the end of the first act, the prefect and otherdignitaries came round with much precipitation and carried off C---n to alarge box in the centre, intended for him; for, not knowing which it was, we had gone to that of the Countess C---a. The theatre looked much moredecent than before; being lighted up, and the boxes hung with silkdraperies in honour of the occasion. The ladies also were in full dress, and the boxes crowded, so that one could scarcely recognise the house. Thismorning we drove out to see the cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe: C---nin one carriage with Count C---a, and the Señora C---a and I in another, driven by Señor A---d, who is a celebrated whip; the carriage open, withhandsome white horses, _frisones_, as they here call the northern horses, whether from England or the United States, and which are much larger thanthe spirited little horses of the country. As usual, we were accompanied byfour armed outriders. 

We passed through miserable suburbs, ruined, dirty, and with a comminglingof odours which I could boldly challenge those of Cologne to rival. Afterleaving the town, the road is not particularly pretty, but is for the mostpart a broad, straight avenue, bounded on either side by trees. 

At Guadalupe, on the hill of Tepayac, there stood, in days of yore, theTemple of Tonantzin, the goddess of earth and of corn, a mild deity, whorejected human victims, and was only to be propitiated by the sacrifices ofturtle-doves, swallows, pigeons, etc. She was the protectress of theTotonoqui Indians. The spacious church, which now stands at the foot of themountain, is one of the richest in Mexico. Having put on veils, no bonnetsbeing permitted within the precincts of a church, we entered this far-famedsanctuary, and were dazzled by the profusion of silver with which it isornamented. 

The divine painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe, represents her in a bluecloak covered with stars, a garment of crimson and gold, her hands clasped, and her foot on a crescent, supported by a cherub. The painting is coarse, and only remarkable on account of the tradition attached to it. 

We afterwards visited a small chapel, covered by a dome, built over aboiling spring, whose waters possess miraculous qualities, and boughtcrosses and medals which have touched the holy image, and pieces of whiteribbon, marked with the measure of the Virgin's hands and feet. We climbed(albeit very warm) by a steep path to the top of the hill, where there isanother chapel, from which there is a superb view of Mexico; and beside it, a sort of monument in the form of the sails of a ship, erected by agrateful Spaniard, to commemorate his escape from shipwreck, which hebelieved to be owing to the intercession of Our Lady of Guadalupe. We thenwent to the village to call on the bishop, the Ylustrisimo Señor Campos, whom we found in his canonicals, and who seems a good little old man, butno conjurer; although I believe he had the honour of bringing up hiscousin, Señor Posada, destined to be Archbishop of Mexico. We found himquietly seated in a large, simply-furnished room, and apparently buriedover some huge volume, so that he was not at first aware of our entrance. 

A picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe hung on the wall, which C---n havingnoticed, he observed that he could not answer for its being a very faithfulresemblance, as Our Lady did not appear often, not so often as peoplesupposed. Then folding his hands, and looking down, he proceeded to recountthe history of the miraculous apparition, pretty much as follows:

In 1531, ten years and four months after the conquest of Mexico, thefortunate Indian whose name was Juan Diego, and who was a native ofCuatitlan, went to the suburb of Tlaltelolco to learn the Christiandoctrine which the Franciscan monks taught there. As he was passing by themountain of Tepeyac, the Holy Virgin suddenly appeared before him andordered him to go, in her name, to the bishop, the Ylustrisimo D. Fr. Juande Zumarraga, and to make known to him that she desired to have a place ofworship erected in her honour, on that spot. The next day the Indian passedby the same place, when again the Holy Virgin appeared before him, anddemanded the result of his commission. Juan Diego replied, that in spite ofhis endeavours, he had not been able to obtain an audience of the bishop. "Return, " said the Virgin, "and say that it is I, the Virgin Mary, theMother of God, who sends thee. " Juan Diego obeyed the divine orders, yetstill the bishop would not give him credence, merely desiring him to bringsome sign or token of the Virgin's will. He returned with this message onthe twelfth of December, when, for the third time, he beheld the apparitionof the Virgin. She now commanded him to climb to the top of the barren rockof Tepeyac, to gather the roses which he should find there, and to bringthem to her. The humble messenger obeyed, though well knowing that on thatspot were neither flowers nor any trace of vegetation. Nevertheless, hefound the roses, which he gathered and brought to the Virgin Mary, who, throwing them into his _tilma_ said, "Return, show these to the bishop, andtell him that these are the credentials of thy mission. " Juan Diego set outfor the episcopal house, which stood on the ground occupied by thehospital, now called San Juan de Dios, and when he found himself in thepresence of the prelate, he unfolded his _tilma_ to show him the roses, when there appeared imprinted on it the miraculous image which had existedfor more than three centuries. 

When the bishop beheld it, he was seized with astonishment and awe, andconveyed it in a solemn procession to his own oratory, and shortly after, this splendid church was erected in honour of the patroness of New Spain. "From all parts of the country, " continued the old bishop, "people flockedin crowds to see Our Lady of Guadalupe, and esteemed it an honour to obtaina sight of her. What then must be _my_ happiness, who can see her mostgracious majesty every hour and every minute of the day! I would not quitGuadalupe for any other part of the world, nor for any temptation thatcould be held out to me;" and the pious man remained for a few minutes asif wrapt in ecstasy. That he was sincere in his assertions, there could beno doubt. As evening prayers were about to begin, we accompanied him to thecathedral. An old woman opened the door for us as we passed out. "Have mychocolate ready when I return, " said the bishop, "Si, padrecito!" said theold woman, dropping upon her knees, in which posture she remained for someminutes. As we passed along the street, the sight of the reverend man hadthe same effect; all fell on their knees as he passed, precisely as if thehost were carried by, or the shock of an earthquake were felt. Arrived atthe door of the cathedral, he gave us his hand, or rather his pastoralamethyst, to kiss. 

The organ sounded fine as it pealed through the old cathedral, and thesetting sun poured his rays in through the Gothic windows with a rich andglowing light. The church was crowded with people of the village, butespecially with _léperos_, counting their beads, and suddenly in the midstof an "Ave María Purísima, " flinging themselves and their rags in our pathwith a "Por el amor de la Santísima Virgen!" and if this does not servetheir purpose, they appeal to your domestic sympathies. From men theyentreat relief "By the life of the Señorita. " From women, "By the life ofthe little child!" From children it is "By the life of your mother!" And amixture of piety and superstitious feeling makes most people, women atleast, draw out their purses. 

Count C---a has promised to send me to-morrow a box of mosquitoes' eggs, ofwhich tortillas are made, which are considered a great delicacy. Considering Life in Mexico, mosquitoes as small winged _cannibals_, I wasrather shocked at the idea, but they pretend that these which are from theLaguna, are a superior race of creatures, which do not sting. In fact theSpanish historians mention that the Indians used to eat bread made of theeggs which the fly called _agayacatl_ laid on the rushes of the lakes, andwhich they (the Spaniards) found very palatable. 

LETTER THE NINTH

Visits from Spaniards--Visit from the President--Disquisition--PoblanaDress--Bernardo the Matador--Bull-fight extraordinary--Plaza deToros--Fireworks--Portrait of C---n--Fancy Ball--Dress--Costume of thePatronesses--Beauty in Mexico--Doctor's Visit--Cards of _fairepart_--Marquesa de San Roman--Toilet in Morning Visits ofCeremony--Attempt at Robbery--Murder of a Consul--La GueraRodriguez--Dr. Plan--M. De Humboldt--Anecdote--Former Customs. 

5th January. 

Yesterday (Sunday), a great day here for visiting after mass is over. Wehad a concourse of Spaniards, all of whom seemed anxious to know whether ornot I intended to wear a Poblana dress at the fancy ball, and seemedwonderfully interested about it. Two young ladies or women of Puebla, introduced by Señor ----- came to proffer their services in giving me allthe necessary particulars, and dressed the hair of Joséfa, a little Mexicangirl, to show me how it should be arranged; mentioned several things stillwanting, and told me that every one was much pleased at the idea of mygoing in a Poblana dress. I was rather surprised that _every one_ shouldtrouble themselves about it. About twelve o'clock the president, in fulluniform, attended by his aides-de-camp, paid me a visit, and sat about halfan hour, very amiable as usual. Shortly after came more visits, and just aswe had supposed they were all concluded, and we were going to dinner, wewere told that the secretary of state, the Ministers of war and of theinterior, and others, were in the drawing-room. And what do you think wasthe purport of their visit? To adjure me by all that was most alarming, todiscard the idea of making my appearance in a Poblana dress! They assuredus that Poblanas generally were _femmes de rien_, that they wore nostockings, and that the wife of the Spanish Minister should by no meansassume, even for one evening, such a costume. I brought in my dresses, showed their length and their propriety, but in vain; and, in fact, as totheir being in the right, there could be no doubt, and nothing but a kindmotive could have induced them to take this trouble; so I yielded with agood grace, and thanked the cabinet council for their timely warning, though fearing, that in this land of procrastination, it would be difficultto procure another dress for the fancy ball; for you must know, that ourluggage is still toiling its weary way, on the backs of mules, from VeraCruz to the capital. They had scarcely gone, when Señor ----- brought amessage from several of the principal ladies here, whom we do not evenknow, and who had requested, that as a stranger, I should be informed ofthe reasons which rendered the Poblana dress objectionable in this country, especially on any public occasion like this ball. I was really thankful formy escape. 

Just as I was dressing for dinner, a note was brought, marked _reservada_(private), the contents of which appeared to me more odd than pleasant. Ihave since heard, however, that the writer, Don José Arnaiz, is an old man, and a sort of privileged character, who interferes in everything, whetherit concerns him or not. I translate it for your benefit. 

"The dress of a Poblana is that of a woman of no character. The lady of theSpanish Minister is a _lady_ in every sense of the word. However much shemay have compromised herself, she ought neither to go as a Poblana, nor inany other character but her own. So says to the Señor de C---n, JoséArnaiz, who esteems him as much as possible. "

6th. --Early this morning, this being the day of the "bull-fightextraordinary, " placards were put up, as I understand, on all the cornersof the streets, announcing it, accompanied by a portrait of C---n! CountC---a came soon after breakfast, accompanied by Bernardo, the firstmatador, whom he brought to present to us. I send you the white satin noteof invitation, with its silver lace and tassels, to show you howbeautifully they can get up such things here. The matador is a handsome butheavy-looking man, though said to be active and skilful. Tomorrow I shallwrite you an account of my _first bull-fight_. 

7th. --Yesterday, towards the afternoon, there were great fears of rain, which would have caused a postponement of the combat; however, the daycleared up, the bulls little knowing how much their fate depended upon theclouds. A box in the centre, with a carpet and a silver lamp, had beenprepared for us; but we went with our friends, the C---as, into their boxadjoining. The scene, to me especially, who have not seen the magnificenceof the Madrid arena, was animating and brilliant in the highest degree. Fancy an immense amphitheatre, with four great tiers of boxes, and a rangeof uncovered seats in front, the whole crowded almost to suffocation; theboxes filled with ladies in full dress, and the seats below bygaily-dressed and most enthusiastic spectators; two military bands ofmusic, playing beautiful airs from the operas; an extraordinary variety ofbrilliant costumes, all lighted up by the eternally deep-blue sky; ladiesand peasants, and officers in full uniform, --and you may conceive that itmust have been altogether a varied and curious spectacle. 

About half-past six, a flourish of trumpets announced the president, whocame in uniform with his staff, and took his seat to the music of "Guerra!Guerra! I bellici trombi. " Shortly after the matadors and picadors, theformer on foot, the latter on horseback, made their entry, saluting allaround the arena, and were received with loud cheering. 

Bernardo's dress of blue and silver was very superb, and cost him fivehundred dollars. The signal was given--the gates were thrown open, and abull sprang into the arena; not a great, fierce-looking animal, as they arein Spain, but a small, angry, wild-looking beast, with a troubled eye. 

 "Thrice sounds the clarion; lo! the signal falls, The den expands, and expectation mute Gapes round the silent circle's peopled walls. Bounds with one lashing spring the mighty brute, And, wildly staring, spurns with sounding foot The sand, nor blindly rushes on his foe; Here, there, he points his threatening front, to suit His first attack, wide waving to and fro His angry tail; red rolls his eye's dilated glow. "

A picture equally correct and poetical. That first _pose_ of the bull issuperb! Pasta, in her Medea, did not surpass it. Meanwhile the matadors andthe _banderilleros_ shook their coloured scarfs at him--the picadors pokedat him with their lances. He rushed at the first, and tossed up the scarfswhich they threw at him, while they sprung over the arena; galloped afterthe others, striking the horses, so that along with their riders theyoccasionally rolled in the dust; both, however, almost instantly recoveringtheir equilibrium, in which there is no time to be lost. Then the matadorswould throw fireworks, crackers adorned with streaming ribbons, which stuckon his horns, as he tossed his head, enveloped him in a blaze of fire. Occasionally the picador would catch hold of the bull's tail, and passingit under his own right leg, wheel his horse round, force the bullock togallop backwards, and throw him on his face. 

Maddened with pain, streaming with blood, stuck full of darts, and coveredwith fireworks, the unfortunate beast went galloping round and round, plunging blindly at man and horse, and frequently trying to leap thebarrier, but driven back by the waving hats and shouting of the crowd. Atlast, as he stood at bay, and nearly exhausted, the matador ran up and gavehim the mortal blow, considered a peculiar proof of skill. The bullstopped, as if he felt that his hour were come, staggered, made a fewplunges at nothing, and fell. A finishing stroke, and the bull expired. 

The trumpets sounded, the music played. Four horses galloped in tied to ayoke, to which the bull was fastened, and swiftly dragged out of the arena. This last part had a fine effect, reminding one of the Roman sacrifice. Ina similar manner, eight bulls were done to death. The scene is altogetherfine, the address amusing, but the wounding and tormenting of the bull issickening, and as here the tips of his horns are blunted, one has moresympathy with him than with his human adversaries. It cannot be good toaccustom a people to such bloody sights. 

Yet let me confess, that though at first I covered my face and could notlook, little by little I grew so much interested in the scene, that I couldnot take my eyes off it, and I can easily understand the pleasure taken inthese barbarous diversions by those accustomed to them from childhood. 

The bull-fight having terminated amidst loud and prolonged cheering fromthe crowd, a tree of fireworks, erected in the midst of the arena, waslighted, and amidst a blaze of coloured light, appeared, first the Arms ofthe Republic, the Eagle and Nopal; and above, a full-length portrait ofC---n! represented by a figure in a blue and silver uniform. Down fell theMexican eagle with a crash at his feet, while he remained burning brightly, and lighted up by fireworks, in the midst of tremendous shouts and cheers. Thus terminated this "_función extraordinaria_;" and when all was over, wewent to dine at Countess C---a's; had some music in the evening, andafterwards returned home tolerably tired. 

10th. --The fancy ball took place last evening in the theatre, and although, owing either to the change of climate, or to the dampness of the house, Ihave been obliged to keep my room since the day of the bull-fight, and todecline a pleasant dinner at the English Minister's, I thought it advisableto make my appearance there. Having discarded the costume of the light-headed Poblamanas, I adopted that of a virtuous Roman Contadina, simpleenough to be run up in one day; a white skirt, red bodice, with blueribbons, and lace veil put on square behind; _à propos_ to whichhead-dress, it is very common amongst the Indians to wear a piece of stufffolded square, and laid flat upon the head, in this Italian fashion; and asit is not fastened, I cannot imagine how they trot along, without lettingit fall. 

We went to the theatre about eleven, and found the _entrée_, though crowdedwith carriages, very quiet and orderly. The _coup d'oeil_ on entering wasextremely gay, and certainly very amusing. The ball, given for the benefitof the poor, was under the patronage of the ladies C---a, G---a, Guer---a, and others, but such was the original dirtiness and bad condition of thetheatre, that to make it decent, they had expended nearly all the proceeds. As it was, and considering the various drawbacks, the arrangements werevery good. Handsome lustres had superseded the lanterns with their tallowcandles, the boxes were hung with bright silk draperies, and a canopy ofthe same drawn up in the form of a tent, covered the whole ball-room. Theorchestra also was tolerably good. The boxes were filled with ladies, presenting an endless succession of China crape shawls of every colour andvariety, and a monotony of diamond earrings; while in the theatre itself, if ever a ball might be termed a fancy-ball, this was that ball. Of Swisspeasants, Scotch peasants, and all manner of peasants, there were a goodlyassortment; as also of Turks, Highlanders, and men in plain clothes. Butbeing public, it was not, of course, select, and amongst many well-dressedpeople, there were hundreds who, assuming no particular character, hadexerted their imagination to appear merely fanciful, and had succeeded. One, for example, would have a scarlet satin petticoat, and over it a pinksatin robe, with scarlet ribbons to match. Another, a short blue satindress, beneath which appeared a handsome purple satin petticoat; the wholetrimmed with yellow bows. They looked like the signs of the zodiac. All haddiamonds and pearls; old and young, and middle-aged; including littlechildren, of whom there were many. 

The lady patronesses were very elegant. The Señora de Guer---a, wore ahead-dress in the form of a net, entirely composed of large pearls anddiamonds; in itself a fortune. The Señora de C---a, as Madame de laValliere, in black velvet and diamonds, looking pretty as usual, but thecold of the house obliged her to muffle up in furs and boas, and so to hideher dress. The Señora de G---a, as Mary, Queen of Scots, in black velvetand pearls, with a splendid diamond necklace, was extremely handsome; shewore a cap, introduced by the Albini, in the character of the ScottishQueen, but which, though pretty in itself, is a complete deviation from thebeautiful simplicity of the real Queen-Mary cap. She certainly looked as ifshe had arrived at her prime without knowing Fotheringay. 

Various ladies were introduced to me who are only waiting to receive ourcards of _faire part_ before they call. Amongst the girls, the best dressesthat I observed were the Señoritas de F---d, the one handsome, with thefigure and face of a Spanish peasant; the other much more graceful andintelligent-looking, though with less actual beauty. However, so many ofthe most fashionable people were in their boxes, that I am told this is nota good occasion on which to judge of the beauty or style of toilet of theMexican women; besides which, these fancy balls being uncommon, they wouldprobably look better in their usual costume. Upon the whole, I saw fewstriking beauties, little grace, and very little good dancing. There wastoo much velvet and satin, and the dresses were too much loaded. Thediamonds, though superb, were frequently ill-set. The dresses, comparedwith the actual fashion, were absurdly short, and the feet, naturallysmall, were squeezed into shoes still smaller, which is destructive tograce, whether in walking or dancing. 

I saw many superb pairs of eyes, and beautiful hands and arms, perfectmodels for a sculptor, the hands especially; and very few good complexions. 

There was a young gentleman pointed out to me as being in the costume of aHighlander! How I wished that Sir William Cumming, Macleod of Macleod, orsome veritable Highland chieftain could suddenly have appeared toannihilate him, and show the people here what the dress really is! Therewere various unfortunate children bundled up in long satin or velvetdresses, covered with blond and jewels, and with artificial flowers intheir hair. 

The room was excessively cold, nor was the ancient odour of the theatreentirely obliterated; nor indeed do I think that all the perfumes of Arabiawould overpower it. Having walked about, and admired all the varieties offancy costumes, I, being nearly frozen, went to the Countess C---a's box onthe pit tier, and enveloped myself in a cloak. They pointed out the mostdistinguished persons in the boxes, amongst others the family of the E---s, who seem very handsome, with brilliant colours and fine teeth. We remaineduntil three in the morning, and declined all offers of refreshment, though, after all, a cup of hot chocolate would not have been amiss. There wassupper somewhere, but I believe attended only by gentlemen. I had thesatisfaction in passing out to see numerous ladies on their partners' arms, and all bedizened as they were with finery, stop under the lamps, and lighttheir cigars, --cool and pretty. 

16th. --I have passed nearly a week in a slight fever; shivering and hot. Iwas attended by a doctor of the country, who seems the most harmlesscreature imaginable. Every day he felt my pulse, and gave me some littleinnocent mixture. But what he especially gave me was a lesson in politeconversation. Every day we had the following dialogue, as he rose to takeleave:

"Madam!" (this by the bedside) "I am at your service. "

"Many thanks, sir. "

"Madam!" (this at the foot of the bed) "know me for your most humbleservant. "

"Good morning, sir. "

"Madam!" (here he stopped beside a table) "I kiss your feet. "

"Sir, I kiss your hand. "

"Madam!" (this near the door) "my poor house, and all in it, myself thoughuseless, all I have, is yours. "

"Many thanks, sir. "

He turns round and opens the door, again turning round as he does so. 

"Adieu, madam! your servant. "

"Adieu, sir. "

He goes out, partly reopens the door, and puts in his head--"Good morning, madam!"

This civility so lengthened out, as if parting were such "sweet sorrow, "between doctor and patient, seems rather misplaced. It is here consideredmore polite to say Señorita than Señora, even to married women, and thelady of the house is generally called by her servants, "La Nina, " thelittle girl, even though she be over eighty. This last custom is still morecommon in Havana, where the old negresses, who have always lived in thefamily, and are accustomed to call their young mistress by this name, neverchange, whatever be her age. 

I have received a packet of letters which have done me more good than theold doctor's visits. The captain left us yesterday, and took charge of abox of chocolate stamped with various figures, and of some curious dulcesfor you. Our cards, giving the Mexicans the tardy information of ourarrival, were sent out some days ago. I copy one, that you may have aspecimen of the style, which looks for all the world like that of a shop-advertisement, purporting that Don ----- makes wigs, dresses hair, and soforth, while Doña ----- washes lace, and does up fine linen. 

"Don A---- C---- de la B----, Enviado Extraordinario y MinistroPlenipotenciario de H. M. C. Cerca de la Republica Mexicana; y su Esposa, Doña F---- E---- C---- de la B----; Participan a su Llegada a este Capitaly se afrecen á su disposición, en la Plazuela de Buenavista, No. 2. "[1]

[Footnote 1: Don A---- C---- de la B----, Envoy Extraordinary and MinisterPlenipotentiary from H. C. M. ; and his Lady, Doña F---- E---- C---- de laB----; Inform you of their arrival in this capital, and put themselves atyour disposal, in the street of Buenavista, No. 2. ]

18th. --For the last few days our rooms have been filled with visitors, andmy eyes are scarcely yet accustomed to the display of diamonds, pearls, silks, satins, blondes, and velvets, in which the ladies have paid theirfirst visits of etiquette. A few of the dresses I shall record for yourbenefit, not as being richer than the others, but that I happen torecollect them best. --The Marquesa de San Roman, an old lady who hastravelled a great deal in Europe, and is very distinguished for talents andinformation. She has the Grand Cross of Maria Louisa of Spain, is of anoble Venetian family, and aunt to the Duke of Canizzaro. Her dress was avery rich black Genoa velvet, black blonde mantilla, and a very splendidparure of diamonds. She seems in exceedingly delicate health. She and hercontemporaries are fast fading away, the last record of the days ofViceroyalty. In their place a new race have started up, whose manners andappearance have little of the _vieille cour_ about them; chiefly. It issaid, wives of military men, sprung from the hotbeds of the revolutions, ignorant and full of pretensions, as _parvenus_ who have risen by chanceand not by merit must be. I continue my list after the fashion of the CourtJournal. 

Countess de S---o. Under dress of rich violet satin, gown of black blonde, mantilla of black blonde, diamond earrings, five or six large diamondbrooches fastening the mantilla, necklace of large pearls and diamondsevigne. The Señora S----. Dress of white satin, gown of white blonde, white blonde mantilla, pearls, diamonds, and white satin shoes. MadameS---r. Black velvet dress, white blonde mantilla, pearls, diamonds, shortsleeves, and white satin shoes. The Señora de A---d. Fawn-coloured satindress, black blonde mantilla, diamonds, and black satin shoes. 

The Señora B---a, the wife of a General, extremely rich, and who has thehandsomest house in Mexico. Dress of purple velvet, embroidered all overwith flowers of white silk, short sleeves, and embroidered corsage; whitesatin shoes and has _bas à jour_; a deep flounce of Mechlin appearing belowthe velvet dress, which was short. A mantilla of black blonde, fastened bythree diamond aigrettes. Diamond earrings of extraordinary size. A diamondnecklace of immense value, and beautifully set. A necklace of pear pearls, valued at twenty thousand dollars. A diamond sévigné. A gold chain goingthree times round the neck, and touching the knees. On every finger twodiamond rings, like little watches. As no other dress was equallymagnificent, with her I conclude my description, only observing that noMexican lady has yet paid me her first morning visit without diamonds. Theyhave few opportunities for displaying their jewels, so that were it not onthe occasion of some such morning visit of etiquette, the diamonds wouldlie in their cases, wasting their serene rays in darkness. 

Last night an attempt was made to break into the house, but our fine littlebull-dog Hercules, a present from Señor A---d, kept his ground so well, andbarked so furiously, that the servants were awakened, even the porter, thesoundest slumberer amongst them; and the robbers escaped without doingfurther mischief than inflicting a severe wound on the poor animal's paw, which has made him for the present quite lame. 

_A propos_ to which matters, a most cruel murder, of which I have just beenhearing the particulars, was committed not very long ago in thisneighbourhood, upon Mr. M----, the Swiss consul. He was also aleather-merchant, and one morning having sent out his porter on somecommission, a carriage drove up to the door, and three gentlemen presentedthemselves to Mr. M----, requesting to speak to him on business. He beggedthem to walk in, and there entered a general in uniform, a young officer, and a monk. Mr. M---- requested to be informed of their business, whensuddenly the general, seizing hold of him, whilst the others went to securethe door, exclaimed, "We have not come to hear about your goods, we wantyour money. " The poor man, astounded at perceiving the nature of hiscustomers, assured them he kept but little money in the house, butproceeded instantly to open his private drawers, and empty their contents, amounting, in fact, to a trifle of some few hundred dollars. Finding thathe had indeed no more to give them they prepared to depart, when the _monk_said, "We must kill him, or he will recognise us. " "No, " said the officers, "leave him and come along. There is no danger. " "Go on, " said the monk, "Ifollow;" and, turning back, stabbed the consul to the heart. The three thenre-entered the carriage, and drove off at full speed. A few minutesafterwards the porter returning found his master bathed in blood, andrushing out to a neighbouring gambling-house, gave the alarm. Severalgentlemen ran to his assistance, but he died in an hour after, having givenall the particulars of the dress and appearance of his murderers, and thatof their carriage. By these tokens they were soon afterwards discovered, and by the energy of the Governor, then Count C---a, they were arrested andhanged upon the trees in front of our house, together with the _real_Mexican colonel, who had kindly lent the ruffians his carriage for theoccasion. It is seldom that crime here meets with so prompt a punishment. 

Our friend, Count C---a, when Governor of Mexico, was celebrated for hisenergy in "_el persiguimiento de los ladrones_, " (persecuting the robbers, )as it is called. It is said upon one occasion his zeal carried him ratherfar. Various robberies having been committed in the city, he had received ahint from the government, that the escape of the perpetrators wasconsidered by them as a proof that he had grown lukewarm in the publicservice. A few days afterwards, riding in the streets, he perceived anotorious robber, who, the moment he observed himself recognised, darteddown another street with the swiftness of an arrow. The governor pursuedhim on horseback; the robber made all speed towards the Square, and rushedinto the sanctuary of the cathedral. The count galloped in after him, anddragged him from his place of refuge near the altar. This violation of thechurch's sanctity was, of course, severely reprimanded, but, as thegovernor remarked, they could no longer accuse him of want of zeal in thedischarge of his duty. 

He took as his porter the captain of a gang of robbers, ordering him tostand at the door, and to seize any of his former acquaintances who mightpass, his own pardon depending on his conduct in this respect. Riding outone day to his country place with his lady, this man accompanying them as aservant, they were overtaken by a messenger, who desired the return of thecount to the city, upon some urgent and important business. It was alreadydusk, yet the count, trusting to the honour of the robber, ordered him toconduct his lady to the hacienda; and she alone, on horseback, with thisalarming guide, performed her journey in safety. 

Before I conclude this letter, I must tell you that I received a visit thismorning from a very remarkable character, well known here by the name of_La Guera_ (the fair) _Rodriguez_, said to have been many years agocelebrated by Humboldt as the most beautiful woman he had seen in the wholecourse of his travels. Considering the lapse of time which has passed sincethat distinguished traveller visited these parts, I was almost astonishedwhen her card was sent up with a request for admission, and still more soto find that in spite of years and of the furrows which it pleases Time toplough in the loveliest faces, La Guera retains a profusion of fair curlswithout one gray hair, a set of beautiful white teeth, very fine eyes, andgreat vivacity. 

Her sister, the Marquesa de Juluapa, lately dead, is said to have been alsoa woman of great talent and extraordinary conversational powers; she isanother of the ancient noblesse who has dropped off. The physician whoattended her in her last illness, a Frenchman of the name of Plan, in greatrepute here, has sent in a bill to her executors of ten thousand dollars, which, although it does not excite any great astonishment, the familyrefuse to pay, and there is a lawsuit in consequence. The extortions ofmedical men in Mexico, especially of foreign physicians, have arrived atsuch a height, that a person of moderate fortune must hesitate beforeputting himself into their hands. [1] A rich old lady in delicate health, and with no particular complaint, is a surer fund for them than a silver-mine. 

[Footnote 1: The Mexican Government has since taken this matter intoconsideration, and is making regulations which render it necessary for amedical man to possess a certain degree of knowledge, and to have resided aspecified time in the city, before he is permitted to practise; they arealso occupied in fixing a certain sum for medical attendance. ]

I found La Guera very agreeable, and a perfect living chronicle. She ismarried to her third husband, and had three daughters, all celebratedbeauties; the Countess de Regla, who died in New York, and was buried inthe cathedral there; the Marquesa de Guadalupe, also dead, and the Marquesade A---a, now a handsome widow. We spoke of Humboldt, and talking ofherself as of a third person, she related to me all the particulars of hisfirst visit, and his admiration of her; that she was then very young, though married, and the mother of two children, and that when he came tovisit her mother, she was sitting sewing in a corner where the baron didnot perceive her; until talking very earnestly on the subject of cochineal, he inquired if he could visit a certain district where there was aplantation of nopals. "To be sure, " said La Guera from her corner; "we cantake M. De Humboldt there;" whereupon he first perceiving her, stoodamazed, and at length exclaimed, _"Valgame Dios! who is that girl?"_Afterwards he was constantly with her, and more captivated, it is said, byher wit than by her beauty, considering her a sort of western Madame deStael; all which leads me to suspect that the grave traveller wasconsiderably under the influence of her fascinations, and that neithermines nor mountains, geography nor geology, petrified shells nor_alpenkalkstein_, had occupied him to the exclusion of a slight _stratum_of flirtation. It is a comfort to think that "sometimes even the greatHumboldt nods. "

One of La Guera's stories is too original to be lost. A lady of high rankhaving died in Mexico, her relatives undertook to commit her to her lastresting-place, habited according to the then prevailing fashion, in hermost magnificent dress, that which she had worn at her wedding. This dresswas a wonder of luxury, even in Mexico. It was entirely composed of thefinest lace, and the flounces were made of a species of point which costfifty dollars a _vara_ (the Mexican yard). Its equal was unknown. It wasalso ornamented and looped up at certain intervals with bows of ribbon veryrichly embroidered in gold. In this dress, the Condesa de ----- was laid inher coffin, thousands of dear friends crowding to view her beautiful_costume de mort_, and at length she was placed in her tomb, the key ofwhich was intrusted to the sacristan. 

From the tomb to the opera is a very abrupt transition; nevertheless, bothhave a share in this story. A company of French dancers appeared in Mexico, a twentieth-rate ballet, and the chief danseuse was a little French damsel, remarkable for the shortness of her robes, her coquetry, and herastonishing pirouettes. On the night of a favourite ballet, MademoisellePauline made her _entrée_ in a succession of pirouettes, and poising on hertoe, looked round for approbation, when a sudden thrill of horror, accompanied by a murmur of indignation, pervaded the assembly. MademoisellePauline was equipped in the very dress in which the defunct countess hadbeen buried!

Lace, point flounces, gold ribbons; impossible to mistake it. Hardly hadthe curtain dropped, when the little danseuse found herself surrounded bycompetent authorities, questioning her as to where and how she had obtainedher dress. She replied that she had bought it at an extravagant price froma French _modiste_ in the city. She had rifled no tomb, but honestly paiddown golden ounces, in exchange for her lawful property. To the modiste'swent the officers of justice. She also pleaded innocent. She had bought itof a man who had brought it to her for sale, and had paid him much morethan _à poids d'or_, as indeed it was worth. By dint of furtherinvestigation, the man was identified, and proved to be the sacristan ofSan -----. Short-sighted sacristan! He was arrested and thrown into prison, and one benefit resulted from his cupidity, since in order to avoidthrowing temptation in the way of future sacristans, it became the custom, after the body had lain in state for some time in magnificent robes, tosubstitute a plain dress previous to placing the coffin in the vault. Apoor vanity after all. 

I was told by a lady here, that on the death of her grandchild, he was notonly enveloped in rich lace, but the diamonds of three condesas and fourmarquesas were collected together and put on him, necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches and tiaras, to the value of several hundred thousanddollars. The street was hung with draperies, and a band of music played, whilst he was visited by all the titled relatives of the family in his deadsplendour, poor little baby! Yet his mother mourned for him as for all herblighted hopes, and the last scion of a noble house. Grief shows itself indifferent ways; yet one might think that when it seeks consolation indisplay, it must be less profound than when it shuns it. 

LETTER THE TENTH

San Fernando--House of Perez de Galvez--A Removal--Size of the Houses--OldMonastery--View by Sunset--Evening Visits--Mexican Etiquette--A Night-viewfrom the Azotea--Tacubaya--Magueys--Making of Pulque--Organos andNopal--Environs of Mexico--Miracle--Hacienda--View from the CountessC---a's House--Arzobispado--Anecdote--Comparative View of Beauty--IndiansRancheritas--Mexican Cordiality--Masses for the Dead--San Augustin--Form ofInvitation--Death of a Senator--A Mistake. 

SAN FERNANDO, 25th February. 

We have been engaged for some time past in the disagreeable occupations, first of finding, then of furnishing, and lastly of entering into a newhouse. We were very anxious to hire that of the Marquesa de Juluapa, whichis pretty, well situated, and has a garden; but the agent, after making uswait for his decision more than a fortnight, informed us that he haddetermined to sell it. House-rent is extremely high; nothing tolerable tobe had under two thousand five hundred dollars per annum, unfurnished. There is also an extraordinary custom of paying a sum called _traspaso_, sometimes to the amount of fourteen thousand dollars, taking your chance ofhaving the money repaid you by the next person who takes the house. We nextendeavoured to procure a house not far from our present residence, --apalace in fact, which I mentioned to you before as having been occupied atone time by Santa Anna, and at another by the English Legation, but thepresent proprietor cannot be prevailed upon to let it. It has a beautifulgarden and olive-ground, but is not a very secure abode, except with aguard of soldiers. We at length came to the determination of taking up ourquarters here. It is a handsome new house, built by General G----, and hasthe fault of being only too large. Built in a square, like all Mexicanhouses, the ground-floor, which has a stone-paved court with a fountain inthe middle, contains about twenty rooms, besides outhouses, coach-house, stables, pigeon-house, garden-house, etc. The second storey where theprincipal apartments are, the first-floor being chiefly occupied byservants, has the same number of rooms, with coal-room, wood-room, bath-room, and water everywhere, in the court below, in the garden, and on theazotea, which is very spacious, and where, were the house our own, we mightbuild a _mirador, _ and otherwise ornament it; but to build for another istoo heroic. The great defect in all these houses is their want of finish;the great doors that will not shut properly, and the great windows down tothe ground, which in the rainy season will certainly admit water, makingthese residences appear something like a cross-breed between a palace and abarn; the splendour of the one, the discomfort of the other. I will notinflict upon you the details of all our petty annoyances caused byprocrastinating tradesmen. Suffice it to say, that the Mexican _manana_(to-morrow), if properly translated, means _never_. As to prices, Iconclude we pay for being foreigners and diplomates, and will not believein a first experience. However, we are settled at last, and find the airhere much purer than in the heart of the city, while the maladies andepidemics so common there, are here almost unknown. Behind this house is avery small garden, bounded on one side by the great wall which encloses theorchard of the old monastery of San Fernando, within whose vast precinctsonly seven or eight monks now linger. It is an immense building, old andgray, and time-worn, with church adjoining, and spacious lands appertainingto it. At all times it is picturesque, but by moonlight or sunset it formsa most olden-time vision. 

At that hour, standing alone in the high-walled garden when the conventbells are tolling, and the convent itself, with its iron-barred, Gothicwindows, and its gray-green olive-trees that look so unreal and lifeless, is tinged by the last rays of the sun, the whole seems like a vision, or ahalf-remembered sketch, or a memory of romance. 

Then the sun sets behind the snow-crowned mountains with a bright fieryred, covering their majestic sides with a rosy glow, while great blackclouds come sailing along like the wings of night; and then is the hour forremembering that this is Mexico, and in spite of all the evils that havefallen over it, the memory of the romantic past hovers there still. But thedark clouds sail on, and envelop the crimson tints yet lingering andblushing on the lofty mountains, and like monstrous night-birds brood therein silent watch; and gradually the whole landscape--mountains and sky, convent and olive-trees, look gray and sad, and seem to melt away in thedim twilight. 

Then the bright moon rises and flings her silver veil over the mountains, and lights up the plains, glittering and quivering upon the old graystones, and a sound of military music is heard in the distance far andfaint. And all the bells are tolling; from old San Fernando that repeatshimself like a sexagenarian; from the towers of the cathedral, from many adistant church and convent; and above the rumbling of carriages and the humof the city, are heard the notes of a hymn, now rising, now falling on theear, as a religious procession passes along to some neighbouring temple. But it grows late--a carriage enters the courtyard--a visit. There is noromance here. Men and women are the same everywhere, whether enveloped inthe graceful mantilla, or wearing _Herbault's last_, whether wrapped inSpanish cloak, or Mexican sarape, or Scottish plaid. The manners of theladies here are extremely kind, but Spanish etiquette and compliments arebeyond measure tiresome. After having embraced each lady who enters, according to the fashion, which after all seems cordial, to say the leastof it, and seated the lady of most consequence on the right side of thesofa, a point of great importance, the following dialogue is _de rigueur_. "How are you? Are you well?" "At your service, and you?" "Without novelty(_sin novedad_) at your service. " "I am rejoiced, and how are you, Señora?""At your disposal, and you?" "A thousand thanks, and the Señor?" "At yourservice, without novelty, " etc. , etc. , etc. Besides, before sitting down, there is, "Pray be seated. " "Pass first, Señorita. " "No, madam, pray passfirst. " "_Vaya_, well, to oblige you, without further ceremony; I dislikecompliments and etiquette. " And it is a fact that there is no realetiquette but the most perfect _laíssez aller_ in the world. All these aremere words, tokens of good will. If it is in the morning, there is theadditional question of "How have you passed the night?" And the answer, "Inyour service. " Even in Mexico the weather affords a legitimate opening fora conversation battery, but this chiefly when it rains or looks dull, which, occasioning surprise, gives rise to observation. Besides a slightchange in the degree of heat or cold which we should not observe, theycomment upon. 

The visit over, the ladies re-embrace, the lady of the house following herguest to the top of the staircase, and again compliments are given andreceived. "Madam, you know that my house is at your disposal. " "A thousandthanks, madam. Mine is at yours, and though useless, know me for yourservant, and command me in everything that you may desire. " "Adieu, I hopeyou may pass a good night, " etc. , etc. , etc. At the bottom of the firstlanding-place the visitors again turn round to catch the eye of the lady ofthe house, and the adieus are repeated. All this, which struck me at first, already appears quite natural, and would scarce be worth mentioning, but asaffording a contrast to our slight and indifferent manner of receiving andtaking leave of our guests. All the ladies address each other, and areaddressed by gentlemen, by their Christian names, and those who have paidme more than one or two visits, use the same familiar mode of address tome. Amongst women I rather like this, but it somewhat startles my ideas ofthe fitness of things to hear a young man address a married woman as María, Antonia, Anita, etc. However, things must be taken as they are meant, andas no familiarity is intended, none should be supposed. . . . 

But these visitors are gone, and into the open court the consolatory moonis shining. All clouds have passed away, and the blue sky is so blue, as todazzle the eyes even in the moonlight. Each star shines out bright, golden, and distinct, and it seems a sin to sleep and to lose so lovely a night. . . . But for a true night view, mount upon the Azotea, and see all Mexicosleeping at your feet; the whole valley and the city itself floating inmoonlight; the blue vault above gemmed with stars, and the mountains allbathed in silver, the white volcanoes seeming to join earth and sky. Hereeven Salvator's genius would fail. We must evoke the ghost of Byron. Thepencil can do nothing. Poetry alone might give a faint idea of a scene sowondrously beautiful. 

26th. --We went yesterday with Mr. M----, his wife and daughter and a padreto visit the archbishop's palace at Tacubaya, a pretty village about fourmiles from Mexico, and a favourite ride of ours in the morning. The countryround Mexico, if not always beautiful, has the merit of being original, andon the road to Tacubaya, which goes by Chapultepec, you pass large tractsof country, almost entirely uncultivated, though so near the city, orcovered by the mighty maguey plant, the American agave, which will flourishon the most arid soil, and, like a fountain in a desert place, furnishesthe poorest Indian with the beverage most grateful to his palate. It seemsto be to them what the reindeer is to the Esquimaux, fitted by nature tosupply all his wants. The maguey and its produce, _pulque_, were known tothe Indians in the most ancient times, and the primitive Aztecs may havebecome as intoxicated on their favourite _octli_, as they called it, as themodern Mexicans do on their beloved pulque. 

It is not often that we see the superb flower with its colossal stem, forthe plant that is in blossom is a useless beauty. The moment theexperienced Indian becomes aware that his maguey is about to flower, hecuts out the heart, covers it over with the side leaves of the plant, andall the juice which should have gone to the great stem of the flower, runsinto the empty basin thus formed, into which the Indian, thrice a day, andduring several months in succession, inserts his _acojote_ or gourd, a kindof siphon, and applying his mouth to the other end, draws off the liquor bysuction; a curious-looking process. First it is called honey-water, and issweet and scentless; but easily ferments when transferred to the skins orearthen vases where it is kept. To assist in its fermentation, however, alittle old pulque, _Madre pulque_, as it is called, which has fermented formany days, is added to it, and in twenty-four hours after it leaves theplant, you may imbibe it in all its perfection. It is said to be the mostwholesome drink in the world, and remarkably agreeable when one hasovercome the first shock occasioned by its rancid odour. At all events, themaguey is a source of unfailing profit, the consumption of pulque beingenormous, so that many of the richest families in the capital owe theirfortune entirely to the produce of their magueys. When the owners do notmake the pulque themselves, they frequently sell their plants to theIndians; and a maguey, which costs a real when first planted, will, whenready to be cut, sell for twelve or eighteen dollars; a tolerable profit, considering that it grows in almost any soil, requires little manure, and, unlike the vine, no very special or periodical care. They are planted inrows like hedges, and though the individual plant is handsome, the generaleffect is monotonous. Of the fibres is made an excellent strong threadcalled _pita_, of which pita they make a strong brownish paper, and mightmake cloth if they pleased. 

There is, however, little improvement made by the Mexicans upon theingenuity of their Indian ancestors, in respect to the maguey. Upon papermade of its fibres, the ancient Mexicans painted their hieroglyphicalfigures. The strong and pointed thorns which terminate the gigantic leaves, they used as nails and pins; and amongst the abuses, not the uses of these, the ancient sanguinary priests were in the habit of piercing their breastsand tearing their arms with them, in acts of expiation. Besides, there is avery strong brandy distilled from pulque, which has the advantage ofproducing intoxication in an infinitely shorter period. 

Together with the maguey, grows another immense production of nature, the_organos_, which resembles the barrels or pipes of an organ, and beingcovered with prickles, the plants growing close together, and about sixfeet high, makes the strongest natural fence imaginable, besides beingcovered with beautiful flowers. There is also another species of cactus, the nopal, which bears the tuna, a most refreshing fruit, but not ripe atthis season. The plant looks like a series of flat green pin-cushionsfastened together, and stuck full of diminutive needles. 

But though the environs of Mexico are flat, though there are few trees, little cultivation, and uninhabited haciendas, and ruined churches in alldirections, still, with its beautiful climate and ever-smiling sky, theprofusion of roses and sweet-peas in the deserted gardens, the occasionalclumps of fine trees, particularly the graceful Arbold de Peru (shinummolle, the Peruvian pepper-tree), its bending branches loaded with bunchesof coral-coloured berries, the old orchards with their blossomingfruit-trees, the conviction that everything necessary for the use of mancan be produced with scarcely any labour, all contributes to render thelandscape one which it is impossible to pass through with indifference. 

A magnificent ash-tree (the Mexican _fresno_), the pride of Tacubaya; whichthrows out its luxuriant branches, covering a large space of ground, waspointed out to us as having a tradition attached to it. It had nearlywithered away, when the Ylustrisimo Señor Fonti, the last of the Spanisharchbishops, gave it his solemn benediction, and prayed that its vigourmight be restored. Heaven heard his prayer; new buds instantly shot forth, and the tree has since continued to thrive luxuriantly. 

Tacubaya is a scattered village, containing some pretty country-houses, andsome old gardens with stone fountains. The word country-house must not, however, be understood in the English acceptation of the word. The house, which is in fact merely used as an occasional retreat during the summermonths, is generally a large empty building, with innumerable lofty rooms, communicating with each other, and containing the scantiest possible supplyof furniture. One room will have in it a deal table and a few chairs; youwill then pass through five or six quite empty; then you will arrive at twoor three, with green painted bedsteads and a bench; the walls bare, orornamented with a few old pictures of Saints and Virgins, and bare floorsornamented with nothing. To this add a kitchen and outhouses, a gardenrunning to waste and overrunning with flowers, with stiff stone walks and afountain in the middle, an orchard and an olive-ground; such are most ofthe haciendas that I have yet seen. That of the Countess C---a, which seemsto be the handsomest in Tacubaya, is remarkable for commanding from itswindows one of the most beautiful views imaginable of Mexico, the volcanoesand Chapultepec. From her azotea there is also a splendid view of the wholevalley; and as her garden is in good order, that she has an excellentbilliard-table, a piano, but above all, a most agreeable society in her ownfamily, and that her house is the very centre of hospitality, one maycertainly spend many pleasant hours there, without regretting the absenceof the luxurious furniture, which, in Mexico, seems entirely confined tothe town houses. The countess herself assured us that she had twicecompletely furnished the house, but as, in two revolutions, everything wasthrown out of the windows and destroyed, she was resolved in future toconfine herself to _le stricte nécessaire. _ We went to see a house andgarden which has fallen, in chance succession, to a poor woman, who, notbeing able to occupy her unexpected inheritance, is desirous of selling it. The garden and grounds are a deserted wilderness of sweets. We were joinedby several monks from a neighbouring convent, and with them went to visitthe archbishop's palace. _Chemin faisant_, the padre informed us that hewas formerly a merchant, a married man, and a friend of Yturbide's. Hefailed, his wife died, his friend was shot, and he joined a small communityof priests who lived retired in the convent of La Profesa, which, with itschurch is one of the richest in Mexico. 

The Arzobispado is a large, handsome, but deserted building, commanding thesame fine view as from the house of the countess, and with a garden andfine olive-ground, of which the trees were brought from Europe. The gardenwas filled with large double pink roses, and bunches of themille-fleur-rose, which are disposed in arches, a favourite custom here, also with a profusion of sweet-peas and jessamine, and a few orange-trees. The gardener gave us some beautiful bouquets, and we lingered here tillsunset, admiring the view. There is no point from which Mexico is seen tosuch advantage. It is even a finer prospect than that from Chapultepec, since it embraces the castle itself, one of the most striking features inthe landscape. But just as the sun sunk behind the mountains, a suddenchange took place in the weather. The wind rose, great masses of darkclouds came driving over the sky, and the rain fell in torrents, forcing usto make a hasty retreat to our carriages, and having omitted to take anyprecautions, and this road not being particularly safe at night, we wereprobably indebted for our safe return more to "good luck than goodguidance;" or, perhaps, we owed it in part to the _padre_, for the robbersare shy at attacking either soldiers or priests, the first from fear, andthe second from awe. 

Talking of robbers and robberies, rather a fertile theme of conversation, Señor ----- told me the other day that, in the time of a former president, it came to pass, that a certain gentleman went to take his leave at thepalace, previous to setting off for Vera Cruz. He was received by thepresident, who was alone with his aide-de-camp, General -----, andmentioned to him in confidence that he was about to take a considerablesum of money with him, but that it was so well concealed in the lining of atrunk, which he described, that even if attacked by robbers, it wasimpossible they should discover it, and that therefore he did not think itnecessary to take an escort with him. The next day this confidentialgentleman left Mexico, in the diligence. Not far from the gates the coachwas attacked, and, strange to say, the robbers singled out the very trunkwhich contained the money, opened it, ripped up the lining, and havingpossessed themselves of the sum therein concealed, peaceably departed. Itwas a singular coincidence that the captain of the robbers, though somewhatdisguised, bore a striking general resemblance to the president's aide-de-camp! These coincidences will happen. . . . 

My chief occupation, lately, has consisted in returning visits; and it iscertain that, according to our views of the case, there is too wide adistinction between the full-dress style of toilet adopted by the ladieswhen they pay visits, and the undress in which they receive their visitorsat home. To this there are some, nay, many exceptions, but _en masse_ thisis the case. . . . 

On first arriving from the United States, where an ugly woman is a phoenix, one cannot fail to be struck at the first glance with the general absenceof beauty in Mexico. It is only by degrees that handsome faces begin todawn upon us; but, however, it must be remarked that beauty without colouris apt to be less striking and to make less impression on us at first. Thebrilliant complexion and fine figure of an Englishwoman strike every one. The beauty of expression and finely-chiselled features of a Spaniard stealupon us like a soft moonlight, while a Frenchwoman, however plain, has sograceful a manner of saying agreeable things, so charming a tournure, sucha piquant way of managing her eyes, and even her mouth, that we think her abeauty after half an hour's acquaintance, and even lose our admiration forthe quiet and high-bred, but less graceful _Anglaise_. The beauty of thewomen here consist in superb black eyes, very fine dark hair, a beautifularm and hand, and small, well-made feet. The defects are, that they arefrequently too short and too fat, that their teeth are often bad, and theircomplexion not the clear olive of the Spaniards, nor the glowing brown ofthe Italians, but a bilious-looking yellow. Their notion of inserting thefoot into a shoe half an inch shorter, ruins the foot, and destroys theirgrace in walking, and, consequently, in every movement. This fashion is, fortunately, beginning to fall into disuse. . . . It is therefore evident thatwhen a Mexicana is endowed with white teeth and a fine complexion, when shehas not grown too fat, and when she does not torture her small foot to makeit smaller, she must be extremely handsome. . . . The general carelessness oftheir dress in the morning is, however, another great drawback to beauty. Awoman without stays, with uncombed hair and _reboso_, had need to be verylovely, if she retain any attraction at all. This indolence, indeed, isgoing out of fashion, especially among the younger part of the community, owing, perhaps, to their more frequent intercourse with foreigners, thoughit will probably be long before the morning at home is not considered aprivileged time and place for dishabille. Notwithstanding, I have made manyvisits where I have found the whole family in a perfect state of order andneatness, but I have observed that there the fathers, and what is moreimportant, the mothers, had travelled in Europe, and established a neworder of things on their return. 

Upon the whole, the handsomest women here are not Mexicans, that is, notborn in the capital, but in the provinces. From Puebla, and Jalapa and VeraCruz, we see many distinguished by their brilliant complexions and fineteeth, and who are taller and more graceful than those born in the city ofMexico; precisely as in Spain, where the handsomest women in Madrid aresaid to be those born out of it. 

The common Indians, whom we see every day bringing in their fruit andvegetables to market, are, generally speaking, very plain, with an humble, mild expression of countenance, very gentle, and wonderfully polite intheir manners to each other; but occasionally, in the lower classes, onesees a face and form so beautiful, that we might suppose such another wasthe Indian who enchanted Cortes; with eyes and hair of extraordinarybeauty, a complexion dark but glowing, with the Indian beauty of teeth likethe driven snow, together with small feet and beautifully-shaped hands andarms, however imbrowned by sun and toil. In these cases it is more thanprobable that, however Indian in her appearance, there must have been someintermarriages in former days between her progenitors and the descendantsof the conquerors. We also occasionally observe very handsome_Rancheritas_, wives or daughters of the farmers, riding in front of theirfarm-servants on the same horse, with the white teeth and fine figureswhich are preserved by the constant exercise that country women mustperforce take, whatever be their natural indolence, while the early fadingof beauty in the higher classes, the decay of teeth, and theover-corpulency so common amongst them, are no doubt the naturalconsequences of want of exercise and of injudicious food. There is nocountry in the world where so much animal food is consumed, and there is nocountry in the world where so little is required. The consumers are not theIndians, who cannot afford it, but the better classes, who generally eatmeat three times a day. This, with the quantities of chile and sweetmeats, in a climate which every one complains of as being irritating andinflammatory, probably produces those nervous complaints which are here sogeneral, and for which constant hot baths are the universal and agreeableremedy. 

In point of amiability and warmth of manner, I have met with no women whocan possibly compete with those in Mexico, and it appears to me that womenof all other countries will appear cold and stiff by comparison. Tostrangers this is an unfailing charm, and it is to be hoped that whateveradvantages they may derive from their intercourse with foreigners, they maynever lose this graceful cordiality, which forms so agreeable a contrastwith English and American frigidity. 

C---n received an invitation some time ago to attend the _honras_ of thedaughter of the Marquis of S---a; that is, the celebration of mass for therepose of her soul. M---- was observing to-day, that if this Catholicdoctrine be firmly believed, and that the prayers of the Church are indeedavailing to shorten the sufferings of those who have gone before us; torelieve those whom we love from thousands of years of torture, it isastonishing how the rich do not become poor, and the poor beggars, infurtherance of this object; and that if the idea be purely human, it showeda wonderful knowledge of human nature, on the part of the inventor, as whatsource of profit could be more sure?. . . . 

Certainly no expense was spared on this occasion. San Augustin, in itself abeautiful church, was fitted up with extraordinary splendour. The walls andpillars were covered with draperies of rich crimson velvet. Innumerable waxcandles were lighted, and an invisible band of music played during theintervals of the deep-rolling organ. All the monks of San Augustin, withtheir white hoods and sandalled feet, and carrying lighted tapers, wereranged near the altar. All the male relatives of the family, dressed indeep mourning, occupied the high-backed chairs placed along one side of thechurch, the floor of which was covered with a carpet, on which variousveiled and mourning figures were kneeling, whom I joined. The wholeservice, the chanting, the solemn music, and the prayers, were veryimpressive, yet more joyous than sad, perhaps from the pervading feelingthat each note, as it rose to heaven, carried some alleviation to thespirit of the young and beloved one for whose repose they played, andbrought her nearer to the gates of the Holy City. 

She was but twenty when she died; and our first house is close to that ofthe Marquis de S---a, her father, so that we were shocked to learn that shehad expired on the night of our great serenade (we, of course, not aware ofher illness), actually to the sound of that gay music, and amidst theshouting and clapping of hands of the multitude. When the service was overthe procession passed out, every one kissing the hand of the bishop as hewent along, and we found some difficulty in making our way through thecrowds of _léperos_, who, though not allowed to enter the church on thisoccasion, were swarming at the gates. Our carriage, as we returned home, formed one of a file of at least one hundred. 

We found on our table another invitation to a very splendid mass, which isto be performed in San Francisco, on account of the death of a friend ofours, a senator of a distinguished family. The style of these invitationsis as follows:--A device is engraved on the paper, such as a tomb andcypress, and below is printed, "Josd María A----, José G---- de la C---a, and Basilio G----, brothers anduncle of the Senator Don Augustin T----, who died on the twenty-eighth oflast month, request you to assist at the suffrage of the funeral honours, which, by the desire of his wife, Doña J---- A----, will be celebrated inthe church of San Francisco on the morning of the eighth of this month ofFebruary, 1840, at nine o'clock. "

Beside this invitation, was a piece of information of a differentdescription:

"General A---- and Anna R---- beg to inform you that they have contractedmatrimony, and have the honour of offering themselves to your disposal. 

"M---- Street, No. 24. Mexico, 1840. " Here, as in Spain, a lady, after hermarriage, retains[1] her maiden name; and though she adds to it that of herhusband, she is more commonly known by her own. 

[Footnote 1: 664]

From ignorance of another Mexican custom, I made rather an awkward blunderthe other day; though I must observe, in my justification, that I hadlately been in the agonies of searching for servants, and had just filledall the necessary departments pretty much to my satisfaction. Therefore, when the porter of the Señora de ----- brought me the compliments of hismistress, and that she begged to inform me that she had another servant atmy disposal (_otra criada á mi disposición_), I returned for answer, that Iwas greatly obliged, but had just hired a _recamerera_ (chambermaid). Atthis the man, stupid as he was, opened his great eyes with a slightexpression of wonder. Fortunately, as he was turning away, I bethought meof inquiring of the Señora's health, and his reply, that "she and the babywere coming on very well, " brought the truth suddenly before me, that themessage was merely the etiquette used on informing the friends of thefamily of the birth of a child--a conviction which induced me slightly toalter the style of my answer. _Experientia docet!_

LETTER THE ELEVENTH

Calle de Tacuba--The Leap of Alvarado--The "Noche Triste"--Sale of aCurate's Goods--Padre Leon--Leprosy--Pictures--The Annunciation--TheAlameda--Paseo de Bucarelli--The Viga--Indians in Canoes--A Murder--ACountry Fête--Visit to the Colegio Vizcaino--The Jota Arragonesa--OldSoldiers. 

The street in which we live forms part of the Calle de Tacuba, the ancientTlacopan, one of the great causeways by which ancient Mexico communicatedwith the continent. The other two were Tepeyayac (now Guadalupe) andIztapalapan, by which last the Mexican emperor and his nobles went out toreceive Cortes on his entrance to Tenochtitlan. The ancient city wasdivided into four districts, and this division is still preserved, with achange from the Indian names to those of San Pablo, San Sebastian, SanJuan, and Santa María. The streets run in the same direction as they did informer times. The same street frequently changes its name in each division, and this part of the Calle de Tacuba is occasionally called the "Plazueladel Sopilote, " "San Fernando, " and the "Puente de Alvarado, " which is themore classic of the three, as celebrating the valour of a hero; while aditch, crossed by a small bridge near this, still retains the name of "elSalto de Alvarado, " in memory of the famous leap given by the valiantSpaniard, Pedro de Alvarado, on the memorable night called the "_nochetriste_, " of the 1st of July, 1520, when the Spaniards were forced toretreat from Mexico to the mountains of Tepeyayac. 

On that "sad night, " the rain falling in torrents, the moon and the starsrefusing their light, the sky covered with thick clouds, Cortes commandedthe silent march of his troops. Sandoval, the unconquerable captain, ledhis vanguard; and the stern hero, Pedro de Alvarado, brought up the rear. Abridge of wood was carried by forty soldiers, to enable the troops to passthe ditches or canals, which must otherwise have impeded their retreat. Itis said that in choosing the night for this march Cortes was guided by thecounsels of an astrologer. 

Be that as it may, the first canal was happily passed by means of theportable bridge. The sentinels who guarded that point were overcome; butthe noise of the struggle attracted the attention of the vigilant priests, who in the silence of the night were keeping watch in the temple. They blewthe holy trumpets, cried to arms, and awakened the startled inhabitantsfrom their slumbers. 

In a moment the Spaniards were surrounded by water and by land. At thesecond canal, which they had already reached, the combat was terrible. Allwas confusion, wounds, groans, and death; and the canal became so chokedwith dead bodies, that the rear-guard passed over them as over a bridge. Weare told that Cortes himself swam more than once over the canal, regardlessof danger, cheering on his men, giving out his orders, every blow aimed inthe direction of his voice, yet cool and intrepid as ever, in the midst ofall the clamour and confusion and darkness. But arrived at the third canal, Alvarado finding himself alone, and surrounded by furious enemies, againstwhom it was in vain for his single arm to contend, fixed his lance in thebottom of the canal, and leaning against it, gave one spring to theopposite shore. 

An Aztec author, and contemporary of Cortes, says that when the Indiansbeheld this marvellous leap, and that their enemy was safe, they bit thedust (_comieron tierra_); and that the children of Alvarado, who was everafter known as "Alvarado of the leap, " proved in the course of a lawsuitbefore the judges of Tezcuco, by competent witnesses, the truth of thisprowess of their father. 

In a hitherto unpublished manuscript which has come to light this year, inan annual called the "Mosaico Mexicano, " there are some curious particularsconcerning the "_noche triste_. " It is said that the alarm was given by anold woman who kept a stall; and mention is made of the extraordinary valourof a lady called María de Estrada, who performed marvellous deeds with hersword, and who was afterwards married to Don Pedro Sanchez Farfan. It isalso said that when the Indians beheld the leap they called out, "Trulythis man is the offspring of the sun;" and that this manner of tearing upthe ground, and eating earth by handfuls, was a common Indian mode ofexpressing admiration. However, Mexico is so rich in traditions, that whenI particularize this one it is only because we live on the site where theevent took place. . . . 

We went a few days ago to see some effects which are for sale, belonging toa _cura_ who died lately, having heard that he has left some good paintingsamongst them. We went in the evening, and found no one but the agent (anindividual in the Daniel Lambert style), an old woman or two, and the PadreLeon, a Jesuit, _capellan_ of the Capuchin nuns, and whose face, besidesbeing handsome, looks the very personification of all that is good, andmild, and holy. What a fine study for a painter his head would be! The oldpriest who died, and who had brought over various valuables from Spain, hada sister who was a leper, and who died in the hospital of San Lazaro. Thisdreadful scourge is by no means wholly unknown here; and though it isordained that all who are afflicted by it shall be shut up in thishospital, I have met two persons, and one of these in society, who have thedisease. 

For this house, which is very large, the executors ask a preposterous rent. The goods of the defunct, which were for sale, were ranged on long tablesin a very large apartment. There were virgins and saints, surplices, candlesticks, and snuffer-trays; boxes of all sorts and sizes; an ill-setparure of emeralds and diamonds; several good paintings, especially one ofthe Annunciation. There was the death of San José, various saints, etc. , all religious subjects, as may be supposed. Two C---n bought; one I greatlycoveted. There were also two pieces of embroidered velvet, on which werethe arms of Castile, said to have been hung on a portrait of Queen Cristinawhen she entered Madrid. The agent begged C----n to buy them, asking at thesame time an impossible price therefor. 

There was moreover a large box full of relics from Jerusalem, which thepadre told me could not be sold, but that I might choose whatever I liked;so that I returned home with various Agnus Deis, crucifixes, and rosaries. The next day a messenger from Padre Leon brought me the painting of theAnnunciation, which I had admired so much, and which is a sketch of Bayeu, a Valencian painter, from his own painting of the Annunciation in the royalchapel of Aranjuez; also the embroidered velvet, begging my acceptance ofboth. We have since wished to show our sense of the padre's politeness, buthe will neither accept presents, nor will he visit any one but such as inthe hour of need require his spiritual services. In the house of sicknessand by the bed of death he is ever to be found, but chiefly if it is alsothe abode of poverty. In the house of the rich man he rarely visits, andthen only when his presence has been requested--when he has been called into administer spiritual consolation to the sick or the dying. But in thedwelling of the lowly, in the meanest and most wretched hovels, he hasnever to be sought. The guardian and friend of the poor, his charities areequally extensive and judicious. . . . 

Yesterday being a fête-day, the _Paseo_ was very full of carriages, andconsequently more brilliant and amusing than usual. This Paseo is theMexican Prado or Hyde Park, while the _Viga_ may be reckoned the KensingtonGardens of the metropolis, only however as succeeding to the other, forthere is no walking, which in Mexico is considered wholly unfashionable;and though a few ladies in black gowns and mantillas do occasionallyventure forth on foot very early to shop or to attend mass, the streets areso ill kept, the pavements so narrow, the crowd so great, and the multitudeof _léperos_ in rags and blankets so annoying, that all theseinconveniences, added to the heat of the sun in the middle of the day, forma perfect excuse for their non-appearance in the streets of Mexico. 

In the Alameda, however, which is so pretty and shady, it is very agreeableto walk; but though I have gone there frequently in the morning, I have metbut three ladies on foot, and of these two were foreigners. After all, every one has feet, but ladies alone have carriages, and it may be amixture of aristocracy and indolence which prevents the Mexican Doñas fromprofaning the soles of their feet by a contact with their mother earth. 

The Paseo called _de Bucarelli_, after a viceroy of that name, is a longand broad avenue bounded by the trees which he planted, and where there isa large stone fountain, whose sparkling waters look cool and pleasant, ornamented by a gilded statue of Victory. Here, every evening, but moreespecially on Sundays and fête-days, which last are nearly innumerable, maybe seen two long rows of carriages filled with ladies, crowds of gentlemenon horseback riding down the middle between these carriages, soldiers atintervals attending to the preservation of public order, and multitudes ofcommon people and _léperos_, mingled with some well-dressed gentlemen onfoot. The carriages are for the most part extremely handsome--Europeancoaches with fine horses and odd liveries, mingled with carriages made inthe country, some in the old Mexican fashion, heavy and covered withgilding, or a modern imitation of an English carriage, strong, but somewhatclumsy and ill-finished. Various hackney-coaches, drawn by mules, are seenamong the finer equipages, some very tolerable, and others of extraordinaryform and dimensions, which bear tokens of having belonged in former days tosome noble Don. 

Horses, as being more showy, are more fashionable in these publicpromenades than mules; but the latter animal requires less care, and iscapable of undergoing more fatigue than the horse. Most families have bothmules and horses in their stable, and for those who visit much this isnecessary. The carriages, of which the most fashionable seems to be the_carratela_, open at the sides, with glass windows, are filled with ladiesin full toilet, without mantillas, their heads uncovered, and, generally, _coiffees_ with flowers or jewels; but the generality being close coaches, afford but an indistinct view of the inmates, as they pass along salutingeach other with their fingers or fan. The whole scene, on the evening of afête, is exceedingly brilliant, but very monotonous. The equestrians, withtheir fine horses and handsome Mexican dresses, apparently take no noticeof the ladies as they pass, rarely salute them, and never venture to enterinto conversation with them. But they are well aware to whom each carriagebelongs, and consequently when it behoves them to make their horses curvet, and otherwise show off their horsemanship to advantage. Black eyes are uponthem, and they know it. When the carriages have made two or three turns, they draw up at different stations in a semicircle a little off the road, and there the inmates sit and view the passers by. Occasional streams ofsmoke may be seen issuing from the carriages, but chiefly, it must beconfessed, from the most old-fashioned equipages, and from the hackney-coaches. Smoking amongst ladies in the higher classes is going very muchout of fashion, and is rarely practised openly except by elderly, or atleast by married ladies. In a secondary class, indeed, young and old inhalethe smoke of their cigaritos without hesitation, but when a custom beginsto be considered _vulgar_, it will hardly subsist another generation. Unfeminine as it is, I do not think it looks ungraceful to see a prettywoman smoke. 

This Paseo commands a fine view of the mountains, but I greatly prefer the_Viga_, which now begins to be the fashionable promenade. It is bordered bya canal shaded by trees, which leads to the _Chinampas_, and is constantlycovered with Indians in their canoes bringing in fruit and flowers andvegetables to the Mexican market. Early in the morning it is a pretty sightto see them in these canoes gliding along in a perfect bower of greenbranches and flowers. 

Yesterday, on returning from an evening drive there, having left C---n andseveral gentlemen who had dined with us, taking coffee and smoking upon thebalcony, I found that by good fortune I had escaped being witness of amurder which took place before our door. These gentlemen had observed, forsome time, a group of persons, male and female, of the lower class, talkingand apparently amusing themselves; sometimes laughing, and at other timesdisputing and giving each other blows. Suddenly, one of the number, a man, darted out from amongst the others, and tried to escape by clambering overthe low wall which supports the arches of the aqueduct. Instantly, andquite coolly, another man followed him, drew his knife, and stabbed him inthe back. The man fell backwards with a groan, upon which a woman of theparty, probably the murderer's wife, drew out her knife, and stabbed theman several times to the heart, the others, meanwhile, neither speaking norinterfering, but looking on with folded arms, and their usual placid smileof indifference. 

At the same time, some soldiers appeared in the distance, riding down thestreet; seeing which, the man and woman who had committed the murder, endeavoured to take shelter in our house. The porter had, fortunately, barred the doors, and the soldiers riding up, took them both into custody. No sensation was excited by this, which is an everyday occurrence. Yesterday I saw a dead man lying near the _Longa_ (the Exchange) and nobodytook any notice of him. "You have been engaged in a disagreeable business, "said I to Colonel -----, who had come to pay us a visit, and was still _engrande tenue_, having just returned from the execution of one of his ownsoldiers, who had stabbed a comrade. "Yes, " said he, with an air ofpeculiar gaiety; "we have just been shooting a little _tambour_. ". . . Wewere invited, lately, to a "día de campo" (a day in the country), a verycommon amusement here, in which, without any peculiar arrangement oretiquette, a number of people go out to some country place in the environs, and spend the day in dancing, breakfasting, walking about, etc. This wasgiven at Tacubaya by Don B---o G---a, a senator, and was amusing enough. The music consisted of a band of guitars, from which the performers, commonmen, and probably self-taught, contrived to draw wonderfully good music, and, in the intervals of dancing, played airs from the Straniera andPuritani. The taste for music is certainly universal, the facilitieswonderful, the science nearly at zero. 

The ladies in general wore neither diamonds nor pearls, but a sort of demi-toilet, which would have been pretty if their dresses had been longer andtheir shoes not so tight. Some wore bonnets, which are considered fulldress. The E---- family, and the young Señora de C----, were beautifullydressed. Mexican women, when they sit, have an air of great dignity, andthe most perfect repose of feature. They are always to be seen to mostadvantage on their sofas, in their carriages, or in their boxes at thetheatre. 

There were immensely long tables, covered with Mexican cookery, which Ibegin to get accustomed to; and a great many toasts were given and a greatquantity of champagne drank. We danced a great deal, quadrilles, waltzesand Spanish country-dances, walked about in the garden and orchard in theevening, and returned to dance again to the music of the indefatigableguitars, so that it was dusk when all the carriages set off, much about thesame time, to bear each other company. . . . 

The following day, the Countess C---a having been kind enough to procure anorder for permission to visit the _Colegio Vizcaino_, which I was anxiousto see, we went there with a large party. This college, founded by thegratuitous charities of Spaniards, chiefly from the province of Biscay, isa truly splendid institution. It is an immense building of stone, in theform of a square, on the model, they say, of the palace of Madrid, andpossesses in the highest degree that air of solidity and magnificence whichdistinguishes the Mexican edifices, and which, together with the width andregularity of the streets, the vastness of the public squares, the totalabsence of all paltry ornament, the balconies with their balustrades andwindow-gratings of solid iron and bronze, render Mexico, in spite of itsinsufficient police, one of the noblest-looking cities in the world. Theobject of this college is to provide for the education of the children ofSpaniards, especially for the descendants of Biscayans, in Mexico; acertain number being admitted upon application to the directors. There arefemale teachers in all the necessary branches, such as reading writing, sewing, arithmetic, etc. ; but besides this, there is a part of the buildingwith a separate entrance, where the children of the poor, of whatevercountry, are educated gratis. These spend the day there, and go home in theevening. The others are kept upon the plan of a convent, and never leavethe institution while they belong to it; but the building is so spaciousand airy, with its great galleries, and vast court and fine fountains, garden and spacious azotea, that the children are perfectly well off. Thereare _portieres_ and sisters, pretty much as in a convent; together with anold respectable _Rectora_; and the most perfect order and cleanlinessprevails through the whole establishment. 

We first visited the poor scholars, passing through the large halls wherethey sat with their teachers, divided into classes, sewing, writing, reading, embroidering, or casting up accounts, which last accomplishmentmust, I think, be sorely against the Mexican genius. One of the teachersmade a little girl present me with a hair chain which she had justcompleted. Great order and decorum prevailed. Amongst the permanentscholars in the upper part of the institution, there are some who embroiderastonishingly well--surplices, altar-hangings, in short, all the churchvestments in gold or silk. In the room where these are kept are theconfessionals for the pupils. The priests are in a separate room, and thepenitents kneel before the grating which separates the two apartments. Allthe sleeping-rooms are scrupulously neat and clean, with two green paintedbeds in each, and a small parlour off it, and frequently ornamented withflowers and birds. The girls are taught to cook and iron, and makethemselves generally useful, thus being fitted to become excellent wives torespectable men in their own rank of life. 

We visited the chapel, which is extremely rich and handsome, incrusted withgilding, and very large. The pupils and their teachers attend mass in thegallery above, which looks down upon the chapel and has a grating beforeit. Here they have the organ, and various shrines, saints, _nacimientos_, etc. We were afterwards shown into a great hall devoted to a differentpurpose, containing at one end a small theatre for the pupils to act playsin. All the walls of the long galleries are covered with old paintings onholy subjects, but many of them falling to pieces from damp or want ofcare. The building seems interminable, and after wandering all through itfor several hours, and visiting everything--from the garden below wherethey gave me a large bunch of roses and carnations, to the azotea above, which looks down upon every street and church and convent in Mexico--wewere not sorry to rest on the antique, high-backed chairs of a handsomeapartment, of which the walls were hung with the portraits of the differentSpanish directors of the college in an ancient court costume. Here we foundthat the directors had prepared a beautiful collation for us--fruit, ices, cakes, custards, jellies, wines, etc. , in great profusion. 

Rested and refreshed, we proceeded to visit the pupils at their differentclasses. At the writing-class various specimens of that polite art werepresented to us. That of the elder girls was generally bad, probably fromtheir having entered the college late in life. That of the younger ones wasmuch more tolerable. We saw some really beautiful specimens of embroidery. Having returned to the hall where there was a piano, some of our partybegan to sing and play. The Señora G---o sang an Italian air beautifully. She is evidently a scientific musician. The Señorita H---s played one ofHerz's most difficult _combinations_ with great execution, and a prettygirl, who is living in a convent, having been placed there by her _novio, _to keep her out of harm's way till he is prepared to give her his hand, sang a duet with another young lady, which I accompanied. Both had finevoices, but no notion of what they were singing. My friend the SeñoraC---- delighted us with some of the innumerable and amusing verses of the_Jota Arragonesa, _ which seem to have neither end nor beginning, all gayand all untranslatable, or at least losing their point and wit when putinto an English dress. Such as

 A poor man met with a sixpence, And for joy he gave up the ghost. And in the troubles of death, Even his sixpence was lost. 

 ------

 The woman who loves two at once, Knows what is discreet and right Since if one of her candles goes out, Still the other remains alight, etc. . . . 

It is impossible to see any building of this size kept more perfectly cleanand neat; generally the case here in all establishments which are underpetticoat government. These old Spanish institutions are certainly on amagnificent scale, though now for the most part neglected and falling toruin; nor has any work of great consequence been attempted since theindependence. . . . 

After various alarms and rumours in our house concerning robbers, sometrue, some exaggerated, and some wholly false, we have at length procuredtwo old Spanish soldiers of the _Invalidos, _ who have taken up theirquarters downstairs, and spend their time in cleaning their guns, makingshoes, eating and sleeping, but as yet have had no occasion to prove theirvalour. Perhaps the fact of there being soldiers in the house will besufficient to keep off the more ordinary robbers. 

LETTER THE TWELFTH

The Viga during the Carnival--Variety of Equipages--The Millionaires--TheMonks--Masked Ball--An Alarming Sight--Medical Students--Dinner at thePrussian Minister's--Rides on Horseback--Indian Love of Flowers--SantaAnita--The Chinampas--Their Origin--Indians in Canoes--Song of "El Palomo"--Fighting--The Great Lakes--The Drain of Huehuetoca--The great Market ofTlatelolco. 

16th March. 

We are now in Lent in the midst of prayer, church-going, and fasting. Thecarnival was not very gay, with the exception of a few public masked ballsand very brilliant _paseos_. The Viga is one of the most beautifulpromenades imaginable, though it might easily be rendered still more so;but even as it is, with its fine shady trees and canal, along which thelazy canoes are constantly gliding, it would be difficult, on a fineevening, just before sunset, especially on the evening of a fête-day, tofind anywhere a prettier or more characteristic scene. Which rank ofsociety shows the most taste in their mode of enjoyment, must be left tothe scientific to determine; the Indians, with their flower-garlands andguitars, lying in their canoes, and dancing and singing after their ownfashion as they glide along the water, inhaling the balmy breezes; or theladies, who shut up in their close carriages, promenade along in full dressand silence for a given space of time, acknowledging by a gentle movementof their fan, the salutations of their fair friends from the recesses oftheir coaches, and seeming to dread lest the air of heaven should visitthem too roughly; though the soft breeze, laden with balm, steals over thesleepy water, and the last rays of the sun are gilding the branches of thetrees with a broken and flickering light. . . . 

Then at certain intervals of time each carriage slowly draws up beside itsneighbour (as in the other paseo); the elegant _carratela_ beside theplebeian hackney-coach; the splendid equipage of the millionaire beside thelumbering and antique vehicle whose fashion hath now departed. There sitthe inmates in silence, as if the business of life were over, and it wasnow their part to watch the busy world from the loopholes of their retreat, and see it rolling along whilst they take their rest. The gentlemen alsodraw up their prancing steeds, though not within hail of the carriages, butthey in the fresh air and under the green trees have as much advantage overthe Señoras as the wandering friar has over the cloistered nun. 

Yet enter the Viga about five o'clock, when freshly watered, and thesoldiers have taken their stand to prevent disturbance, and two long linesof carriages are to be seen going and returning as far as the eye canreach, and hundreds of gay plebeians are assembled on the sidewalks withflowers and fruit and _dulces_ for sale, and innumerable equestrians inpicturesque dresses, and with spirited horses, fill up the interval betweenthe carriages, and the canoes are covering the canal, the Indians singingand dancing lazily as the boats steal along, and the whole under a blue andcloudless sky, and in that pure clear atmosphere: and could you only shutyour eyes to the one disagreeable feature in the picture, the number ofléperos busy in the exercise of their vocation, you would believe thatMexico must be the most flourishing, most enjoyable, and most peacefulplace in the world, and moreover the wealthiest; not a republic, certainly, for there is no well-dressed _people_; hardly a connecting link between theblankets and the satins, the poppies and the diamonds. As for thecarriages, many would not disgrace Hyde Park, though there are some thatwould send a shiver all along Bond-street; but the very contrast isamusing, and upon the whole, both as to horses and equipages, there is muchmore to admire than to criticise. . . . 

There, for example, is the handsome carriage of the rich -----, who has oneof the finest houses in Mexico; his wife wears a velvet turban twisted withlarge pearls, and has at this moment a cigar in her mouth. She is notpretty, but her jewels are superb. How he made his fortune, partly bygambling, and partly by even less honourable means, let some ablerchronicler relate. Or look at this elegant _carratela_, with its glasssides all open, giving to view a constellation of fair ones, and drawn byhandsome gray _frisones_. These ladies are remarkable as having a moreEuropean air than most others, brighter colours, longer and simplerdresses, and Paris bonnets. Perhaps they have been in Europe. It isremarkable that the horses of the gentlemen all appear peculiarlyunmanageable every time they pass this carriage. Another handsome, plaincarriage, containing the family of one of the Ministers; mother anddaughters all beautiful, with Spanish eyes and dark glowing complexions, followed close by a hackney-coach containing women with rebosos, and littlechildren, with their faces and fingers all bedaubed with candy. . . . Some ofthe coachmen and footmen wear Mexican dresses, and others have liveries. . . . But here come three carriages _en suite_, all with the same crimson andgold livery, all luxurious, and all drawn by handsome white horses. It isthe President? Certainly not; it is too ostentatious. Even royalty goes insimpler guise, when it condescends to mingle in the amusements of itssubjects. In the first carriage appear the great man himself and hisconsort, rather withdrawing from the plebeian gaze. There is here muchcrimson and gold, much glass and well-stuffed cushions, much comfort andmagnificence combined. Two handsome northern steeds, white and prancing, draw this commodious equipage. The next is a splendid coach containing thechildren and servants, while in the third, equally magnificent, are thebabies and nurses. By the side of the first carriage rides an elderlygentleman, who, were his seat firmer, might be mistaken for a _picador_. Hewears a rich Mexican dress, all covered with gold embroidery; his hat withgold rolls is stuck jauntily on one side, contrasting oddly enough with hisuneasy expression of countenance, probably caused by the inward trepidationof which he cannot wholly repress the outward sign while managing his high-bred steed, and with his feet pressing his silver stirrups, cautiouslytouching him with a whip which has a large diamond in the handle. 

But the chief wonder of his equipment, and that which has procured him sucha retinue of little ragged and shouting boys, is his saddle. Thisextraordinary piece of furniture, which cost the owner five thousanddollars, is entirely covered with velvet, richly embossed in massive gold;he sometimes appears with another, inlaid with pure silver. 

His whole appearance is the most singular imaginable, and the perturbationof spirit in which he must return when it begins to grow dusk, and hereflects at once upon his own value, and his countrymen's taste forappropriation, must balance the enjoyment which his vanity receives fromthe admiration of the little boys in the Paseo. 

Just as these millionaires pass by, an old hackney-coach in their wake, attracts our attention, exactly the sort of quaint old vehicle in which itsometimes pleases Lady Morgan to introduce her heroines. In it are sixfigures, closely masked, their faces covered with shawls. After manyconjectures, it is impossible to guess whether they are men or women. It_was_ impossible, but as the carriages return, the wind suddenly blowsaside the shawls of two of the party, and discloses the gowns and hoods ofthe--friars! _O tempora! O Mores!_

There were three masked balls at the theatre, of which we only attendedone. We went about ten o'clock to a box on the pit tier, and although a_pronunciamento_ (a fashionable term here for a revolution) wasprognosticated, we found everything very quiet and orderly, and the ballvery gay and crowded. As we came in, and were giving our tickets, a numberof masks came springing by, shrieking out our names in their unearthlyvoices. Captain G----, brother of Lord -----, came to our box; also a scionof _La jeune France_, M. De C----, who condescendingly kept his hat onduring the whole evening. In a box directly above us were the Frenchlegation who arrived lately. Amongst the women, the dresses were for themost part dominoes, adopted for greater concealment, as it was notconsidered very creditable to be there. 

There were also several in men's attire, chiefly French modistes, generallya most disreputable set here, and numerous men dressed as women. There weremasked Poblanas without stockings, and with very short petticoats; knightsin armour; innumerable dresses probably borrowed from the theatre, and evenmore than the usual proportion of odd figures. The music was very good, andthe dancers waltzed and _galloped_, and flew round the room like furies. There was at least no want of animation. Hundreds of masks spoke to us, butI discovered no one. One in a domino was particularly anxious to direct myattention to the Poblana dress, and asked me if it would have done for meto attend a fancy ball in such a costume. Very angry at his absurdity, Ibegan to explain how I should have dressed, when I recollected the folly ofexplaining anything to a creature whom I did not know. C---n stepped out ofthe box, to walk amongst the crowd, at which various masks showed greatsigns of joy, surrounding and shaking hands with him. The boxes were filledwith ladies, and the scene was very amusing. Señor M----, whose box weoccupied, ordered in cakes and wine, and about one o'clock we left theball-room and returned home, one of our soldiers acting as lackey. . . . 

I paid a visit the other day, which merits to be recorded. It was to therich Señora -----, whose first visit I had not yet returned. She was athome, and I was shown into a very large drawing-room, where, to mysurprise, I found the lamps, mirrors, etc. , covered with black crape, as incases of mourning here. I concluded that some one of the family was dead, and that I had made a very ill-timed first visit. However I sat down, whenmy eyes were instantly attracted by _something awful_, placed directly infront of the sofa where I sat. There were six chairs ranged together, andon these lay stretched out a figure, apparently a dead body, about six feetlong, enveloped in black cloth, the feet alone visible, from their pushingup the cloth. Oh, horror! Here I sat, my eyes fixed upon this mysteriousapparition, and lost in conjecture as to whose body it might be. The masterof the house? He was very tall, and being in bad health might have diedsuddenly. My being received, argued nothing against this, since the firstnine days after a death, the house is invariably crowded with friends andacquaintances, and the widow, or orphan, or childless mother must receivethe condolences of all and sundry, in the midst of her first bitter sorrow. There seems to be no idea of grief wishing for solitude. 

Pending these reflections, I sat uneasily, feeling or fancying a heavy airin the apartment, and wishing, most sincerely, that some living personwould enter. I thought even of slipping away, but feared to give offence, and in fact began to grow so nervous, that when the Señora de ----- enteredat length, I started up as if I had heard a pistol. She wore a colouredmuslin gown and a blue shawl; no signs of mourning!

After the complimentary preface, I asked particularly after her husband, keeping a side glance on the mysterious figure. He was pretty well. Herfamily? Just recovered from the smallpox, after being severely ill. "Notdangerously?" said I, hesitatingly, thinking she might have a _tall son_, and that she alluded to the recovery of the others. "No;" but her sister'schildren had been alarmingly ill. "Not _lost_ any, I hope?"--"None. " Well, so taken up was I, that conversation flagged, and I answered and askedquestions at random, until, at last, I happened to ask the lady if she weregoing to the country soon. "Not to remain. But to-morrow we are going toconvey a _Santo Cristo_ (a figure of the Crucifixion) there, which has justbeen made for the chapel;" glancing towards the figure; "for which reasonthis room is, as you see, hung with black. " I never felt so relieved in mylife, and thought of the Mysteries of Udolpho. 

The houses being so large, and the servants not drilled to announcevisitors; besides that the entresols are frequently let to other families, it is a matter of no small difficulty for a stranger to pioneer him orherself into the presence of the people of the house. The mistakes that Ihave made! for not being aware of this fact concerning the entresols, whichare often large and handsome, and the porter having begged me to walk up, Igenerally stopped at the first landing-place, and then _walked up_ to thefirst door that I saw. I did walk in one morning upon two gentlemen whoseemed marvellously startled by my visit. They looked like two medicalstudents, and were engaged before a table, Heaven knows how; dissecting, Iimagine. I inquired for the Señora -----, which astonished them still more, as well it might. However, they were very civil, and rushed downstairs tocall up the carriage. After that adventure I never entered a houseunaccompanied by a footman, until I had learnt my way through it. 

We had a pleasant dinner-party a few days ago at the Prussian Minister's, and met the C---s family there. The Condesa de C---- has been a long whilein Europe, and in the best society, and is now entirely devoted to theeducation of her daughters, giving them every advantage that Mexico canafford in the way of masters, besides having at home a Spanish governess toassist her, an excellent woman, whom they regard as a second mother. 

Though there is very little going on in Mexico at present, I amuse myselfvery well; there is so much to see, and the people are so kind andfriendly. Having got riding-horses we have been making excursions all roundthe country, especially early in the morning, before the sun is high, whenthe air is delightfully cool and refreshing. Sometimes we go to the Viga atsix in the morning, to see the Indians bringing in their flowers andvegetables by the canal. The profusion of sweet-peas, double poppies, bluebottles, stock gillyflower, and roses, I never saw equalled. EachIndian woman in her canoe looks as if seated in a floating flower-garden. The same love of flowers distinguishes them now as in the time of Cortes;the same which Humboldt remarked centuries afterwards. In the evening theseIndian women, in their canoes, are constantly crowned with garlands ofroses or poppies. Those who sit in the market, selling their fruit or theirvegetables, appear as if they sat in bowers formed of fresh green branchesand coloured flowers. In the poorest village church the floor is strewedwith flowers, and before the service begins fresh nosegays are brought inand arranged upon the altar. The baby at its christening, the bride at thealtar, the dead body in its bier, are all adorned with flowers. We are toldthat in the days of Cortes a bouquet of rare flowers was the most valuablegift presented to the ambassadors who visited the court of Montezuma, andit presents a strange anomaly, this love of flowers having existed alongwith their sanguinary worship and barbarous sacrifices. 

We went the other evening on the canal, in a large canoe with an awning, asfar as the little village of Santa Anita, and saw, for the first time, thefar-famed Chinampas, or floating gardens, which have now become fixtures, and are covered with vegetables, intermingled with flowers, with a few poorhuts beside them, occupied by the Indians, who bring these to the city forsale. There were cauliflowers, chili, tomatoes, cabbages, and othervegetables, but I was certainly disappointed in their beauty. They arehowever curious, on account of their origin. So far back as 1245, it issaid the wandering Aztecs or Mexicans arrived first at Chapultepec, when, being persecuted by the princes of Taltocan, they took refuge in a group ofislands to the south of the lake of Tezcuco. Falling under the yoke of theTezcucan kings, they abandoned their island home and fled to Tezapan, where, as a reward for assisting the chiefs of that country in a waragainst other petty princes, they received their freedom, and establishedthemselves in a city to which they gave the name of Mexicalsingo, fromMejitli, their god of war--now a collection of strong barns and poor huts. But they did not settle there, for to obey an oracle they transportedthemselves from this city to the islands east of Chapultepec to the westernside of the lake of Tezcuco. An ancient tradition had long been currentamongst them, that wherever they should behold an eagle seated upon a nopalwhose roots pierced a rock, there they should found a great city. In 1325they beheld this sign, and on the spot, in an island in the lake, foundedthe first house of God--the Teocalli, or Great Temple of Mexico. During alltheir wanderings, wherever they stopped, the Aztecs cultivated the earth, and lived upon what nature gave them. Surrounded by enemies and in themidst of a lake where there are few fish, necessity and industry compelledthem to form floating fields and gardens on the bosom of the waters. 

They weaved together the roots of aquatic plants, intertwined with twigsand light branches, until they had formed a foundation sufficiently strongto support a soil formed of the earth which they drew from the bottom ofthe lake; and on it they sowed their maize, their chili, and all otherplants necessary for their support. These floating gardens were about afoot above the water, and in the form of a long square. Afterwards, intheir natural taste for flowers, they not only cultivated the useful butthe ornamental, and these small gardens multiplying were covered withflowers and aromatic herbs, which were used in the worship of the gods, orwere sent to ornament the palace of the emperor. The Chinampas along thecanal of the Viga are no longer floating gardens, but fixed to the mainlandin the marshy grounds lying between the two great lakes of Chalco andTezcuco. A small trench full of water separates each garden; and though nowin this marshy land they give but a faint idea of what they may have beenwhen they raised their flower-crowned heads above the clear waters of thelake, and when the Indians, in their barks, wishing to remove theirhabitations, could tow along their little islands of roses, it is still apretty and a pleasant scene. 

We bought numerous garlands of roses and poppies from the Indian children, both here and at Santa Anita, a little village where we landed, and as wereturned towards evening we were amused by the singing and dancing of theIndians. One canoe came close up to ours, and kept beside it for some time. A man was lying lazily at the bottom of the boat tingling his guitar, andone or two women were dancing monotonously and singing at the same time tohis music. Sundry jars of pulque and earthen dishes with tortillas andchili and pieces of _tasajo_, long festoons of dried and salted beef, proved that the party were not without their solid comforts, in spite ofthe romantic guitar and the rose and poppy garlands with which the dancingnymphs were crowned. Amongst others they performed the _Palomo_, the Dove, one of their most favourite dances. The music is pretty, and I send it toyou with the words, the music from ear; the words are given me by my friendthe Señora A---d, who sings all these little Indian airs in perfection. Ifwe may form some judgment of a people's civilization by their ballads, noneof the Mexican songs give us a very high idea of theirs. The words aregenerally a tissue of absurdities, nor are there any patriotic songs whichtheir new-born freedom might have called forth from so musical a people. Atleast I have as yet only discovered one air of which the words bearreference to the glorious "Grito de Dolores, " and which asserts in rhymethat on account of that memorable event, the Indian was able to get asdrunk as a Christian! The translation of the Palomo is as follows:

"What are you doing, little dove, there in the wineshop? Waiting for mylove until Tuesday, my life. A dove in flying hurt her little wing. If you have your dove I have my little dove too. A dove in flying all herfeathers fell off. Women pay badly; not all, but some of them. Little doveof the barracks, you will tell the drummers when they beat the retreat tostrike up the march of my loves. Little dove, what are you doing thereleaning against that wall? Waiting for my dove till he brings me somethingto eat. " At the end of each verse the chorus of "Palomita, palomo, palomo. "

Yet, monotonous as it is, the air is so pretty, the women sang so softlyand sleepily, the music sounded so soothingly as we glided along the water, that I felt in a pleasant half-dreamy state of perfect contentment, and wassorry when, arriving at the landing-place, we had to return to a carriageand civilized life, with nothing but the garlands of flowers to remind usof the Chinampas. 

Unfortunately these people generally end by too frequent applications tothe jarro of pulque, or what is worse to the pure spirit known by the nameof _chingturite;_ the consequence of which is, that from music and dancingand rose-becrowning, they proceed to quarrelling and jealousy anddrunkenness, which frequently terminates in their fighting, stabbing eachother, or throwing each other into the canal. "The end crowns the work. "

Noble as this present city of Mexico is, one cannot help thinking how muchmore picturesque the ancient Tenochtitlan was, and how much more fertileits valley must have been, on account of the great lakes. Yet even in thetime of Cortes these lakes had no great depth of water, and still furtherback, in the time of the Indian Emperors, navigation had been so frequentlyinterrupted in seasons of drought, that an aqueduct had been constructed inorder to supply the canals with water. 

After this, the Spaniards, like all new settlers, hewed down the fine treesin this beautiful valley, both on plain and mountain, leaving the bare soilexposed to the vertical rays of the sun. Then their well-founded dread ofinundation caused them to construct the famous _Desague_ of Huehuetoca, thedrain or subterranean conduit or channel in the mountain for drawing offthe waters of the lakes; thus leaving marshy lands or sterile plainscovered with carbonate of soda, where formerly were silver lakes coveredwith canoes. This last was a necessary evil, since the Indian emperorsthemselves were sensible of its necessity and had formed great works fordraining the lakes, some remains of which works still exist in the vicinityof the Penon. The great Desague was begun in 1607, when the Marquis ofSalinas was viceroy of Mexico; and the operations were commenced with greatpomp, the viceroy assisting in person, mass being said on a portable altar, and fifteen hundred workmen assembled, while the marquis himself began theexcavation by giving the first stroke with a spade. From 1607 to 1830, eight millions of dollars were expended, and yet this great work was notbrought to a conclusion. However, the limits of the two lakes of Zumpangoand San Cristobal, to the north of the valley, were thus greatly reduced, and the lake of Tezcuco, the most beautiful of all the five, no longerreceived their contributions. Thus the danger of inundations hasdiminished, but water and vegetation have diminished also, and the suburbsof the city, which were formerly covered with beautiful gardens, nowpresent to the eye an arid expanse of efflorescent salt. The plains nearSan Lazaro especially, in their arid whiteness, seem characteristic of theunfortunate victims of leprosy enclosed in the walls of that hospital. 

We rode out the other day by the _barrio_, or ward of Santiago, whichoccupies part of the ancient Tlatelolco, which once constituted a separatestate, had kings of its own, and was conquered by a Mexican monarch, whomade a communication by bridges between it and Mexico. The great marketmentioned by Cortes was held here, and its boundaries are still pointedout, whilst the convent chapel stands on the height where Cortes erected abattering engine, when he was besieging the Indian Venice. 

LETTER THE THIRTEENTH

Convent of San Joaquin--Mexico in the Morning--Tacuba--Carmelite Prior--Convent Garden--Hacienda of Los Morales--El Olivar--A _Huacamaya_--Humming-birds--Correspondence--Expected Consecration--Visit to theMineria--Botanic Garden--Arbol de las Manilas--The Museum--EquestrianStatue--Academy of Painting and Sculpture--Disappointment. 

Early this morning we rode to the convent of San Joaquin, belonging tofriars of the Carmelite order, passing through Tacuba, the ancientTlacopan, once the capital of a small kingdom, and whose monarch, _Tetlepanquetzaltzin_ (short and convenient name), Cortes caused to be hungon a tree for a supposed or real conspiracy. The number of carts, theinnumerable Indians loaded like beasts of burden, their women with basketsof vegetables in their hands and children on their backs, the long stringsof _arrieros_ with their loaded mules, the droves of cattle, the flocks ofsheep, the herds of pigs, render it a work of some difficulty to make one'sway on horseback out of the gates of Mexico at an early hour of themorning, but it must be confessed, that the whole scene is lively andcheerful enough to make one forget that there is such a thing as care inthe world. There is an indifferent, placid smile on every face, and thebright blue sky smiling over them all; dogs bark, and asses bray, and theIndian, with near a mule's load on his back, drags his hat off to salute abevy of his bronze-coloured countrymen, nearly equally laden with himself, and they all show their teeth and talk their liquid Indian and pass on. 

These plains of Tacuba, once the theatre of fierce and bloody conflicts, and where, during the siege of Mexico, Alvarado of the Leap fixed his camp, now present a very tranquil scene. Tacuba itself is now a small village ofmud huts, with some fine old trees, a few very old ruined houses, a ruinedchurch, and some traces of a building which--assured us had been the palaceof their last monarch; whilst others declare it to have been the site ofthe Spanish encampment. 

San Joaquin, also a poor village, contains the fine convent and immensewalled garden and orchard belonging to the rich monks of the Carmeliteorder. As C---n knows the prior, he sent in our names, and I was admittedas far as the sacristy of the convent church. The prior received us withthe utmost kindness: he is a good-looking man, extremely amiable andwell-informed, and still young. The gentlemen were admitted into theinterior of the convent, which they describe as being a very large handsomebuilding, clean and airy, with a fine old library, chiefly composed oftheological works; to the garden, which is immensely large, and though notmuch cultivated, full of flowers; and to the great orchard, celebrated forthe profusion and excellence of its fruit. There is a mirador in the gardenwhich can be seen from the road, and from which there is a very extensiveview. I was very anxious for admission only to the garden, and pleaded the_manly_ appearance of my riding-hat, which would prevent all scandal were Iseen from a distance; but the complaisance of the good prior would not goquite so far as that, so I sat in the sacristy and conversed with a good-natured old monk with a double chin, whilst the others wandered through thegrounds. They afterwards gave us a very nice breakfast, simple but good;fish from the lake, different preparations of eggs, _riz-ou-lait_, coffee, and fruit. The monks did not sit down with us, nor would they partake ofanything themselves. 

We went in the evening to see a pretty hacienda called Los Morales (themulberry-tree) belonging to a Spaniard, which has a nice garden with a bathin it, and where they bestowed a quantity of beautiful flowers on us. 

The other day we set off early, together with the Belgian and FrenchMinisters and their families, in carriages, to visit a beautiful desertedhacienda, called _el Olivar_, belonging to the Marquis of Santiago. Thehouse is perfectly bare, with nothing but the walls; but the grounds are awilderness of tangled flowers and blossoming trees, rose-bushes, sweet-peas, and all manner of fragrant flowers. We passed an agreeable day, wandering about, breakfasting on the provisions brought with us, arranginglarge bouquets of flowers, and firing at a mark, which must have startledthe birds in this solitary and uncultivated retreat. We had a pleasantfamily dinner at the E----'s, and passed the evening at the Baronde -----'s. The gentlemen returned late, it being the day of a diplomaticdinner at the English Minister's. 

The Countess del V---e has just sent me a beautiful bird with the mostgorgeous plumage of the brightest scarlet and blue. It is called a_huacamaya_, and is of the parrot species, but three times as large, beingabout two feet from the beak to the tip of the tail. It is a superbcreature but very wicked, gnawing not only its own pole, but all the doors, and committing great havoc amongst the plants, besides trying to bite everyone who approaches it. It pronounces a few words very hoarsely andindistinctly, and has a most harsh, disagreeable cry. In fact it presumesupon its beauty to be as unamiable as possible. 

I prefer some beautiful little humming-birds (_chupamirtos_ as they arecalled here) which have been sent me, and which I am trying to preservealive, but I fear the cold will kill them, for though we see themoccasionally here, hanging by their beaks upon the branches of the flowers, like large butterflies, and shaking their brilliant little wings so rapidlythat they seem to emit sparkles of coloured light; still this is not theirhome; properly speaking, they belong to the _tierra caliente_. These littlebirds are of a golden green and purple, and are so tame, that whilst I amwriting I have two on my shoulder and one perched on the edge of a glass, diving out its long tongue for sugar and water. Our live stock isconsiderable: we have Guinea fowls, who always remind me of old maidenladies in half-mourning, and whose screaming notes match those of thehuacamaya; various little green parrots; a scarlet cardinal, one hundredand sixty pigeons in the pigeon-house, and three fierce dogs in conspicuoussituations. 

I received a very polite letter today from the Señora de Santa Anna, and asit was enclosed in a few lines from Santa Anna himself, I send you his_autograph_, for I doubt much whether we have seen the last of thatillustrious personage, or whether his philosophic retirement will endurefor ever. 

I have been endeavouring lately to procure permission from Señor Posada, who is shortly to be consecrated archbishop, to visit the convents of nunsin Mexico. Señor C---o, secretary of state, our particular friend, has beenkind enough to interest himself in the matter, though with indifferenthopes of success. A few days ago he sent me his correspondence with SeñorPosada, who observes that the vice-queens alone had the privilege of the_entree_, and seems to hesitate a good deal as to the advisableness ofgranting a permission which might be considered a precedent for others. However, I think he is too amiable to resist our united entreaties. I holdout as an argument, that C---n, being the _duplicado_ of the queen herself, my visit is equal to that of the vice-queen, which argument has at leastamused him. His consecration is fixed for the 31st of May. 

Don Pedro Fonti, the last archbishop named in the time of the Spanishdominion, having renounced the mitre, three illustrious churchmen wereproposed to fill the vacant place: this Don Manuel Posada, Don AntonioCampos, and Dr. Don José María de Santiago. The first was chosen by theMexican government, and was afterwards proclaimed in the Roman Consistorylast December, with the approbation of Gregory XVI. They are now onlywaiting for the pontifical bulls, which are daily expected from Rome; andit is said that the ceremony, which will take place in the cathedral, willbe very magnificent. 

April 3rd. --Accompanied by the--Minister, we spent yesterday in visitingthe Mineria, the Botanic Garden, the Museum, etc. , all which leave acertain disagreeable impression on the mind, since, without having thedignity of ruins, they are fine buildings neglected. The Mineria, or Schoolof Mines, the work of the famous architect and sculptor Tolsa, is amagnificent building, a palace whose fine proportions would render itremarkable amongst the finest edifices of any European country. All is on agreat scale, its noble rows of pillars, great staircases, large apartmentsand lofty roofs, but it reminds one of a golden aviary, containing a fewcommon sparrows. Several rich Spaniards contributed more than six hundredthousand dollars to its construction. We were shown through the whole ofthis admirable building by the director, who occupies a very handsome houseattached to it. But however learned the professors may be, --and amongstthem is the scientific Señor del Rio, now very old, but a man of greatlearning and research, --the collection of minerals, the instruments andmodels, are all miserable and ill kept. 

The Botanic Garden, within the palace, is a small ill-kept enclosure, wherethere still remain some rare plants of the immense collection made in thetime of the Spanish government, when great progress was made in all thenatural sciences, four hundred thousand dollars having been expended inbotanical expeditions alone. Courses of botanical lectures were then givenannually by the most learned professors, and the taste for natural historywas universal. 

El Arbol de las Manitas (the tree of the small hands) was the most curiouswhich we saw in the garden. The flower is of a bright scarlet, in the formof a hand, with five fingers and a thumb; and it is said that there areonly three of these trees in the republic. The gardener is an old Italian, who came over with one of the viceroys, and though now one hundred and tenyears old, and nearly bent double, possesses all his faculties. The gardenis pretty from the age of the trees, and luxuriance of the flowers, butmelancholy as a proof of the decay of the science in Mexico. The palaceitself, now occupied by the president, formerly belonged to Cortes, and wasceded by his descendants to the government. In exchange they received theground formerly occupied by the palace of the Aztec kings, and built on ita very splendid edifice, where the state archives are kept, and where the_Monte Pio_ (the office where money is lent on plate, jewels, etc. ) now is, the director of which is Don Francisco Tagle, whose apartments within thebuilding are very elegant and spacious. 

The Museum within the University, and opposite the palace, in the plazacalled del Volador, contains many rare and valuable works, many curiousIndian antiquities, but they are ill arranged. On the walls are theportraits of the vice-kings, beginning with Hernan Cortes. We spent a longwhile here examining these antiquities; but we have seen nothing in Mexicoto equal the beauty of the colossal equestrian statue in bronze of CharlesIV, placed on a pedestal of Mexican marble, which stands in the court ofthe University, but formerly adorned the middle of the square. It is amagnificent picture of sculpture, the masterpiece of Tolosa, remarkable forthe noble simplicity and purity of its style, and was made at the expenseof an ex-viceroy, the Marquis of Branciforte. We also saw the goddess ofwar lying in a corner of the court, beside the stone of sacrifices, whichwe had already been shown. 

To-day we have been visiting the Academy of painting and sculpture, calledthe Academy of Fine Arts, of which I unfortunately recollected having readHumboldt's brilliant account, in my forcibly prolonged studies on board theJason, and that he mentions its having had the most favourable influence informing the national taste. He tells us that every night, in these spacioushalls, well illumined by Argand lamps, hundreds of young men wereassembled, some sketching from the plaster-casts, or from life, and otherscopying designs of furniture, candelabras and other bronze ornaments; andthat here all classes, colours, and races, were mingled together; theIndian beside the white boy, and the son of the poorest mechanic besidethat of the richest lord. Teaching was gratis, and not limited to landscapeand figures, one of the principal objects being to propagate amongst theartists a general taste for elegance and beauty of form, and to enliven thenational industry. Plaster-casts, to the amount of forty thousand dollars, were sent out by the King of Spain, and as they possess in the academyvarious colossal statues of basalt and porphyry, with Aztec hieroglyphics, it would have been curious, as the same learned traveller remarks, to havecollected these monuments in the courtyard of the Academy, and compared theremains of Mexican sculpture, monuments of a semi-barbarous people, withthe graceful creations of Greece and Rome. 

Let no one visit the Academy with these recollections or anticipations inhis mind. . . . That the simple and noble taste which distinguishes theMexican buildings, their perfection in the cutting and working of theirstones, the chaste ornaments of the capitals and relievoes, are owing tothe progress they made in this very Academy is no doubt the case. Theremains of these beautiful but mutilated plaster-casts, the splendidengravings which still exist, would alone make it probable; but the presentdisorder, the abandoned state of the building, the non-existence of theseexcellent classes of sculpture and painting, and, above all, the low stateof the fine arts in Mexico, at the present day, are amongst the sad proofs, if any were wanting, of the melancholy effects produced by years of civilwar and unsettled government. . . . 

The Holy Week is now approaching, and already Indians are to be seenbringing in the palm-branches and the flowers for the altars, and they arebeginning to erect booths and temporary shops, and to make everypreparation for the concourse of people who will arrive next Sunday fromall the different villages and ranchoes, far and near. 

LETTER THE FOURTEENTH

Palm Sunday--Holy Thursday--Variety of Costumes--San Francisco--SantoDomingo--Santa Teresa--Nuns--Stone Bust--The Academy--ReligiousProcession--Pilgrimage to the Churches--Santa Clara--Nun'sVoice--Orange-trees and Rose-bushes--The Cathedral Illuminated--Our Saviourin Chains--Good Friday--The great Square towards Evening--Dresses of Men, Women, and Children--Approach of the Host--Judas--GreatProcession--_Miserere_--The Square by Moonlight--A Lonely Walk--_Sábado deGloria_--Ball in Contemplation--Weekly Soirées--Embroidered Muslins--ATertulia at Home. 

21st April. 

On the morning of Palm Sunday, I went to the Cathedral, accompanied byMademoiselle de -----, daughter of the ----- Minister. We found it no easymatter to make our way through the crowd; but at last, by dint of patienceand perseverance, and changing our place very often, we contrived to arrivevery near the great altar; and there we had just taken up our position, when a disinterested man gave us a friendly hint, that as the wholeprocession, with their branches, must inevitably squeeze past the spotwhere we were, we should probably be crushed or suffocated; consequently wefollowed him to a more convenient station, also close to the altar anddefended by the railing, where we found ourselves tolerably well off. Twoladies, to whom he made the same proposition, and who rejected it, weafterwards observed in a sad condition, their mantillas nearly torn off andthe palm-branches sweeping across their eyes. In a short time, the wholecathedral presented the appearance of a forest of palm-trees, (_à la_Birnam wood) moved by a gentle wind; and under each tree a half-nakedIndian, his rags clinging together with wonderful pertinacity; long, matted, dirty black hair both in men and women, bronze faces with mildunspeaking eyes, or all with one expression of eagerness to see theapproach of the priests. Many of them had probably travelled a long way, and the palms were from _tierra caliente_, dried and plaited into allmanner of ingenious ways. Each palm was about seven feet high, so as far toovershadow the head of the Indian who carried it; and whenever they areblessed, they are carried home to adorn the walls of their huts. Thepriests arrived, at length, in great pomp; and also carryingpalm-branches. For four mortal hours, we remained kneeling or sitting onthe floor, and thankful we were when it was all over, and we could make ourway once more into the fresh air. From this day, during the whole week, allbusiness is suspended, and but one train of thought occupies all classes, from the highest to the lowest. The peasants flock from every quarter, shops are shut, churches are opened; and the Divine Tragedy enacted inSyria eighteen hundred years ago, is now celebrated in land thenundiscovered, and by the descendants of nations sunk in Paganism forcenturies after that period. But amongst the lower classes, the worship isemphatically the worship of Her who Herself predicted, "From henceforth allnations shall call me blessed. " Before her shrines, and at all hours, thousands are kneeling. With faces expressive of the most intense love anddevotion, and with words of the most passionate adoration, they address themild image of the Mother of God. To the Son their feelings seem composed ofrespectful pity, of humble but more distant adoration; while to the Virginthey appear to give all their confidence, and to look up to her as to akind and bountiful Queen, who, dressed in her magnificent robes andjewelled diadem, yet mourning in all the agony of her divine sorrows, hascondescended to admit the poorest beggar to participate in her woe, whilstin her turn she shares in the afflictions of the lowly, feels for theirprivations, and grants them her all-powerful intercession. 

On Holy Thursday nothing can be more picturesque than the whole appearanceof Mexico. No carriages are permitted and the ladies, being on foot, takethe opportunity of displaying all the riches of their toilet. On this dayvelvets and satins are your only wear. Diamonds and pearls walk thestreets. The mantillas are white or black blonde; the shoes white orcoloured satin. The petticoats are still rather short, but it would be hardto hide such small feet, and such still smaller shoes. "Il faut souffrirpour être belle, " but _à quoi bon être belle?_ if no one sees it. As forme, I _ventured_ upon a lilac silk of Palmyre's, and a black mantilla. 

The whole city was filled with picturesque figures. After the higherSeñoras were to be remarked the common women, chiefly in clear white, verystiffly starched muslins, some very richly embroidered, and the petticoattrimmed with lace, white satin shoes, and the dresses extremely short, which in them looks very well. A reboso is thrown over all. Amongst thesewere many handsome faces, but in a still lower and more Indian class, withtheir gay-coloured petticoats, the faces were sometimes beautiful, and thefigures more upright and graceful; also they invariably walk well whilstmany of the higher classes, from tight shoes and want of custom, seem tofeel pain in putting their feet to the ground. 

But none could vie with the handsome Poblana peasants in their holidaydresses, some so rich and magnificent, that, remembering the warning of ourMinisterial friends, I am inclined to believe them more showy thanrespectable. The pure Indians, with whom the churches and the whole city iscrowded, are as ugly as can be imagined; a gentle, dirty, andmuch-enduring race. Still, with their babies at their backs, going along attheir usual gentle trot, they add much to the general effect of the _coup-d'oeil_. 

We walked to San Francisco about ten o'clock, and the body of the churchbeing crowded, went upstairs to a private gallery with a gilded grating, belonging to the Countess de Santiago, and here we had the advantage ofseats, besides a fine view of the whole. This church is very splendid, andthe walls were hung with canvas paintings representing different passagesof our Saviour's life; his entry into Jerusalem, the woman of Samaria atthe well, etc. , which, with the palm-trees had a cool and oriental effect. 

Before the altar, which was dazzling with jewels, was a representation ofthe Lord's Supper, not in painting, but in sculptured figures as large aslife, habited in the Jewish dresses. The bishops and priests were in ablaze of gold and jewels. They were assisted during the ceremony by theyoung Count of Santiago. The music was extremely good, and the whole effectimpressive. We visited several churches in the course of the day, andcontinued walking until four o'clock, when we went to dine with our friendsthe A---s. After dinner one of their coachmen, a handsome Mexican, in asuperb dress, all embroidered in gold, was called upstairs to dance the_Jarabe_ to us with a country girl. The dance is monotonous, but theyacquitted themselves to perfection. 

We then continued our pilgrimage through the city, though, as the sunhad not yet set, we reserved our chief admiration until the churchesshould be illuminated. One, however, we entered at sunset, which isworthy of remark--Santo Domingo. It looked like a little Paradise, ora story in the Arabian Nights. All the steps up the altar were coveredwith pots of beautiful flowers; orange-trees, loaded with fruit andblossom, and rose-bushes in full bloom, glasses of coloured water, andall kinds of fruit. Cages full of birds, singing delightfully, hung fromthe wall, and really fine paintings filled up the intervals. A gaycarpet covered the floor, and in front of the altar, instead of theusual representation of the Saviour crucified, a little infant Jesús, beautifully done in wax, was lying amidst flowers with little angelssurrounding him. Add to this, the music of Romeo and Juliet, and you mayimagine that it was more like a scene in an opera, than anything in achurch. But certainly, as the rays of the setting sun streamed in with arosy light through the stained windows, throwing a glow over the whole;birds, and flowers, and fruit, paintings and angels, it was theprettiest and most fantastic scene I ever beheld, like somethingexpressly got up for the benefit of children. 

We did not kneel before each altar for more than three minutes, otherwisewe should never have had time even to enter the innumerable churches whichwe visited in the course of the night. We next went to Santa Teresa laNueva, a handsome church, belonging to a convent of strict nuns, which wasnow brilliantly illuminated; and here, as in all the churches, we made ourway through the crowd with extreme difficulty. The number of _léperos_ wasastonishing, greatly exceeding that of well-dressed people. Before eachaltar was a figure, dreadful in the extreme, of the Saviour, as large aslife, dressed in purple robe and crown of thorns, seated on the steps ofthe altar, the blood trickling from his wounds; each person, before leavingthe church, devoutly kneeling to kiss his hands and feet. The nuns, amongstwhom is a sister of Señor A----, sung behind the grating of the galleryabove, but were not visible. 

One of the churches we visited, that of Santa Teresa, called the _Antigua_, stands upon the site formerly occupied by the palace of the father of theunfortunate Montezuma. It was here that the Spaniards were quartered whenthey took Montezuma prisoner, and here Cortes found and appropriated thetreasures of that family. In 1830 a bust of stone was found in the yard ofthe convent, which the workmen were digging up. Don Lucas Alaman, thenMinister of Exterior Relations, offered a compensation to the nuns for thecurious piece of antiquity which they gladly gave up to the government, onwhose account he acted. It is said to be the idol goddess of the Indians, _Centeotl_, the goddess of medicine and medicinal herbs, also known by thename of _Temaz calteci_, or the "Grandmother of the Baths. " A full accountis given of her in one of the numbers of the "Mosaico Megicano, " as also ofa square stone found in the same place, beautifully carved, and coveredwith hieroglyphical characters. 

In the evening, towards the hour when the great procession was expected, wewent to the balconies of the Academia, which command a fine view of thestreets by which it was to pass. Till it arrived we amused ourselves bylooking over the _beaux restes_ of former days, the collections of paintingand sculpture, the fine plaster-casts that still remain, and the greatvolumes of fine engravings. It was dark when the procession made itsappearance, which rendered the effect less gaudy and more striking. TheVirgin, the Saints, the Holy Trinity, the Saviour in different passages ofhis life, imprisonment and crucifixion, were carried past in succession, represented by figures magnificently dressed, placed on lofty scaffoldingsof immense weight, supported by different bodies of men. One is carried bythe coachmen, another by the aguadores (water-carriers), a third by thecargadores (porters), a Herculean race. 

First arrived the favourite protectress of all classes, the Virgin ofDolores, surmounted by a velvet canopy, seated on a glittering throne, attired in her sable robes, her brow surmounted by glittering rays, andcontracted with an expression of agony; of all representations of theVirgin, the only one which is always lovely, however rudely carved, withthat invariably beautiful face of terrible anguish. Then followed theSaviour bearing the cross; the Saviour crucified, the Virgin supporting thehead of her dying son; the Trinity (the Holy Spirit represented by a dove);all the apostles, from St. Peter with the keys to Judas with the money-bag;and a long train of saints, all brilliantly illuminated and attended by anamazing crowd of priests, monks, and laymen. However childish andsuperstitious all this may seem, I doubt whether it be not as well thus toimpress certain religious truths on the minds of a people too ignorant tounderstand them by any other process. By the time the last saint and angelhad vanished, the hour was advanced, and we had still to visit theilluminated churches. Being recommended to divest ourselves of ourornaments before wandering forth amongst the crowd, a matter of some momentto the Señora A----, who wore all her diamonds, we left our earrings, brooches, etc. , in charge of the person who keeps the Academia, andrecommenced our pilgrimage. 

Innumerable were the churches we visited that evening; the Cathedral, LaEnsenanza, Jesús María, Santa Clara, Santa Brigida, San Hipólito, LaEncarnación, the five churches of San Francisco, etc. , etc. , a list withoutan end, kneeling for a short space of time before each blazing altar, forthe more churches one visits, the more meritorious is the devotion. Thecathedral was the first we entered, and its magnificence struck us withamazement. Its gold and silver and jewels, its innumerable ornaments andholy vessels, the rich dresses of the priests, all seemed burning in almostintolerable brightness. The high altar was the most magnificent; thesecond, with its pure white marble pillars, the most imposing. 

The crowd was immense, but we made our way slowly through it to the foot ofeach altar, where the people were devoutly kissing the Saviour's hand orthe hem of his garment; or beating their breasts before the mild image ofOur Lady of Grief. Each church had vied with the other in putting forth allits splendour of jewellery, of lights, of dresses, and of music. 

In the church of Santa Clara, attached to the convent of the same name, small but elegant, with its pillars of white marble and gold, one voice ofangelic sweetness was singing behind the grating alone, and in the midst ofa most deathlike stillness. It sounded like the notes of a nightingale in acage. I could have listened for hours, but our time was limited, and we setoff anew. Fortunately the evening was delightful, and the moon shiningbrightly. We visited about twenty churches in succession. In all the organwas pealing, the blaze of light overpowering, the magnificence of jewelsand crimson velvet and silver and gold dazzling, the crowd suffocating, theincense blinding. 

The prettiest effect in every church was caused by the orange-trees androse-bushes, which covered the steps of the altars, up to where themagnificence of the altar itself blazed out; and the most picturesqueeffect was produced by the different orders of monks in their gowns andhoods, either lying on their faces or standing ranged with torches likefigures carved in stone. 

In the passage leading to most of the churches was a table, at whichseveral ladies of the highest rank sat collecting alms for the poor. Thefair _queteuses_ had not been very successful, and that chiefly amongst thelower classes. The fatigue was terrible, walking for so many hours on thatbad pavement with thin satin shoes, so that at length our feet seemed tomove mechanically, and we dropped on our knees before each altar likemachines touched by a spring, and rose again with no small effort. Of allthe churches we entered that night, the cathedral was the most magnificent, but the most beautiful and tasteful was San Francisco. The crowd there wasso dense, that we were almost carried off our feet, and were obliged, indefiance of all rule, to take the arms of our _caballeros_. Still it wasworth the trouble of making our way through it to see such a superblyilluminated altar. It was now eleven o'clock, and the crowd were breakingup as the churches are shut before midnight. In one corner of the middleaisle, near the door, was the representation of a prison from which issueda stream of soft music, and at the window was a figure of Christ in chains, his eyes bandaged, and a Jew on each side; the chains hanging from hishands, and clanking as if with the motion of his arms. The rush here wasimmense. Numbers of people were kneeling before the window of the prison, and kissing the chains and beating their breasts with every appearance ofcontrition and devotion. This was the night before the Crucifixion, and thelast scene of the Holy Thursday. 

We reached home hardly able to stand. I never felt more dazzled, bewildered, and sleepy; but I was wakened by finding a packet of lettersfrom home, which brought back my thoughts, or rather carried them away tovery different lands. 

On Good Friday, a day of sorrow and humiliation, the scene in the morningis very different. The great sacrifice is complete--the Immortal has died amortal death. The ladies all issue forth in mourning, and the churches looksad and wan after their last night's brilliancy. The heat was intense. Wewent to San Francisco, again to the Tribuna of the Countess de Santiago, tosee the Adoration and Procession of the Cross, which was very fine. 

But the most beautiful and original scene was presented towards sunset inthe great square, and it is doubtful whether any other city in the worldcould present a _coup-d'oeil_ of equal brilliancy. Having been offered the_entree_ to some apartments in the palace, we took our seats on thebalconies, which commanded a view of the whole. The Plaza itself, even onordinary days, is a noble square, and but for its one fault, a row of shopscalled the Parian, which breaks its uniformity, would be nearly unrivalled. Every object is interesting. The eye wanders from the cathedral to thehouse of Cortes (the Monte Pio), and from thence to a range of finebuildings with lofty arcades to the west. From our elevated situation, wecould see all the different streets that branch out from the square, covered with gay crowds pouring in that direction to see another greatprocession, which was expected to pass in front of the palace. Boothsfilled with refreshments, and covered with green branches and garlands offlowers, were to be seen in all directions, surrounded by a crowd who werequenching their thirst with orgeat, _chia_, [1] lemonade, or pulque. Thewhole square, from the cathedral to the Portales, and from the Monte Pio tothe palace, was covered with thousands and tens of thousands of figures, all in their gayest dresses, and as the sun poured his rays down upon theirgaudy colours, they looked like armies of living tulips. Here was to beseen a group of ladies, some with black gowns and mantillas; others, nowthat their church-going duty was over, equipped in velvet or satin, withtheir hair dressed, --and beautiful hair they have; some leading theirchildren by the hand, dressed. . . Alas! how they were dressed! Long velvetgowns trimmed with blonde, diamond earrings, high French caps befurbelowedwith lace and flowers, or turbans with plumes of feathers. Now and then thehead of a little thing that could hardly waddle alone, might have belongedto an English dowager-duchess in her opera-box. Some had extraordinarybonnets, also with flowers and feathers, and as they toddled along, topheavy, one would have thought they were little old women, till a glimpsewas caught of their lovely little brown faces and black eyes. Now and thena little girl, simply dressed with a short frock, and long black hairplaited down and uncovered, would trip along, a very model of grace amongstthe small caricatures. The children here are generally beautiful, theirfeatures only too perfect and regular for the face "to fulfil the promiseof its spring. " They have little colour, with swimming black or hazel eyes, and long lashes resting on the clear pale cheek, and a perfect mass of finedark hair of the straight Spanish or Indian kind plaited down behind. [Footnote 1: A drink made of the seed of the plant of that name. ]

As a contrast to the Señoras, with their over-dressed beauties, were thepoor Indian women, trotting across the square, their black hair plaitedwith dirty red ribbon, a piece of woollen cloth wrapped about them, and alittle mahogany baby hanging behind, its face upturned to the sky, and itshead going jerking along, somehow without its neck being dislocated. Themost resigned expression on earth is that of an Indian baby. All the groupswe had seen promenading the streets the day before were here collected byhundreds; the women of the shopkeeper class, or it may be lower, in theirsmart white embroidered gowns, with their white satin shoes, and neat feetand ankles, and rebosos or bright shawls thrown over their heads; thepeasants and countrywomen, with their short petticoats of two colours, generally scarlet and yellow (for they are most anti-quakerish in theirattire), thin satin shoes and lace-trimmed chemises, or bronze-coloureddamsels, all crowned with flowers, strolling along with their admirers, andtingling their light guitars. And above all, here and there a flashingPoblana, with a dress of real value and much taste, and often with a faceand figure of extraordinary beauty, especially the figure; large and yet_élancée_, with a bold coquettish eye, and a beautiful little brown foot, shown off by the white satin shoe; the petticoat of her dress frequentlyfringed and embroidered in real massive gold, and a reboso either shot withgold, or a bright-coloured China crape shawl, coquettishly thrown over herhead. We saw several whose dresses could not have cost less than fivehundred dollars. 

Add to this motley crowd, men dressed _à la Mexicaine_, with their largeornamented hats and serapes, or embroidered jackets, sauntering along, smoking their cigars, _léperos_ in rags, Indians in blankets, officers inuniform, priests in their shovel hats, monks of every order; Frenchmenexercising their wit upon the passers-by; Englishmen looking cold andphilosophical; Germans gazing through their spectacles, mild and mystical;Spaniards seeming pretty much at home, and abstaining from remarks; and itmay be conceived that the scene at least presented variety. Sometimes thetinkling of the bell announced the approach of _Nuestro Amo_. Instantly thewhole crowd are on their knees, crossing themselves devoutly. Two men whowere fighting below the window suddenly dropped down side by side. Disputeswere hushed, flirtations arrested, and to the busy hum of voices succeededa profound silence. Only the rolling of the coach-wheels and the sound ofthe little bell were heard. 

No sooner had it passed than the talkers and the criers recommenced withfresh vigour. The venders of hot chestnuts and cooling beverages pliedtheir trade more briskly than ever. A military band struck up an air fromSemiramis: and the noise of the innumerable _matracas_ (rattles), some ofwood and some of silver, with which every one is armed during the last daysof the holy week, broke forth again as if by magic, while again commencedthe sale of the _Judases_, fireworks in the form of that arch-traitor, which are sold on the evening of Good Friday, and let off on Saturdaymorning. Hundreds of these hideous figures were held above the crowd, bymen who carried them tied together on long poles. An ugly misshapen monsterthey represent the betrayer to have been. When he sold his master forthirty pieces of silver, did he dream that in the lapse of ages hiseffigies should be held up to the execration of a Mexican mob, of anunknown people in undiscovered countries beyond the seas?--A secretbargain, perhaps made whisperingly in a darkened chamber with the fierceJewish rulers; but now shouted forth in the ears of the descendants ofMontezuma and Cortes!

But the sound of a distant hymn rose on the air, and shortly after thereappeared, advancing towards the square, a long and pompous retinue ofmitred priests, with banners and crucifixes and gorgeous imagery, conducting a procession in which figures representing scenes concerning thedeath of our Saviour, were carried by on platforms, as they were thepreceding evening. There was the Virgin in mourning at the foot of thecross--the Virgin in glory--and more saints and more angels--St. Michaeland the dragon, etc. , etc. , a glittering and innumerable train. Not a soundwas heard as the figures were carried slowly onwards in their splendidrobes, lighted by thousands of tapers, which mingled their unnatural glarewith the fading light of day. 

As the _Miserere_ was to be performed in the cathedral late in the evening, we went there, though with small hopes of making our way through thetremendous crowd. Having at length been admitted through a privateentrance, _per favour_, we made our way into the body of the church; butthe crowd was so intolerable, that we thought of abandoning our position, when we were seen and recognised by some of the priests, and conducted to arailed-off enclosure near the shrine of the Virgin, with the luxury of aTurkey carpet. Here, separated from the crowd, we sat down in peace on theground. The gentlemen were accommodated with high-backed chairs, besidesome ecclesiastics; for men may sit on chairs or benches in church, butwomen must kneel or sit on the ground. Why? "_Quien sabe?_" (Who knows?) isall the satisfaction I have ever obtained on that point. 

A Lonely Walk

The _music_ began with a crash that wakened me out of an agreeable slumberinto which I had gradually fallen; and such discordance of instruments andvoices, such confusion worse confounded, such inharmonious harmony, neverbefore deafened mortal ears. The very spheres seemed out of tune, androlling and crashing over each other. I could have cried _Miserere!_ withthe loudest; and in the midst of all the undrilled band was a_music-master, _ with violin-stick uplifted, rushing desperately from one tothe other, in vain endeavouring to keep time, and frightened at the clamourhe himself had been instrumental in raising, like Phaeton intrusted withhis unmanageable coursers. The noise was so great as to be really alarming;and the heat was severe in proportion. The calm face of the Virgin seemedto look reproachfully down. We were thankful when, at the conclusion ofthis stormy appeal for mercy, we were able to make our way into the freshair and soft moonlight, through the confusion and squeezing at the doors, where it was rumoured that a soldier had killed a baby with his bayonet. Abad place for poor little babies--decidedly. 

Outside, in the square, it was cool and agreeable. A military band wasplaying airs from Norma, and the womankind were sitting on the stones ofthe railing, or wandering about and finishing their day's work by a quietflirtation _au clair de la lune_. 

It was now eleven o'clock, and the pulquerias were thrown open for therefreshment of the faithful, and though hitherto much order had prevailed, it was not likely to endure much longer; notwithstanding which, we had theimprudence to walk unattended to our own house, at San Fernando. In thecentre of the city there seemed no danger. People were still walking, and afew still drinking at the lighted booths; but when arrived at the lowerpart of the Alameda, all was still, and as we walked outside, under thelong shadows of the trees, I expected every moment to be attacked, andwished we were anywhere, even on the silvery top of Popocatepetl! We passedseveral crowded pulquerias, where some were drinking and others drunk. Arrived at the arches, we saw from time to time a suspicious blanketedfigure half hid by the shadow of the wall. A few doors from our owndomicile was a pulque-shop filled with léperos, of whom some were standingat the door, shrouded in their blankets. It seemed to me we should neverpass them, but we walked fast, and reached our door in safety. Here wethundered in vain. The porter was asleep, and for nearly ten minutes weheard voices within, male and female, ineffectually endeavouring topersuade the heavy-headed Cerberus to relinquish his keys. It would havebeen a choice moment for our friends, had any of them wished to accost us;but either they had not observed us, or perhaps they thought that C---nwalking so late must have been armed; or perhaps, more charitableconstruction, they had profited by the solemnities of the day. 

We got in at last, and I felt thankful enough for shelter and safety, andas wearied of the day's performances as you may be in reading a descriptionof them. 

Next morning, Sábado de Gloria, I could not persuade myself to go as far asthe Plaza, to see the Iscariots explode. At a distance we listened to thehissing and crackling of the fireworks, the ringing of all the bells, andthe thundering of artillery; and knew by the hum of busy voices, and therolling of carriages, that the Holy Week was numbered with the past. . . . 

We hear that it is in contemplation amongst the English here, headed bytheir Minister, to give a ball in the Mineria, to celebrate the Marriage ofQueen Victoria, which will be turning these splendid halls to some account. 

I have some intention of giving a series of weekly soirées, but am assuredthat they will not succeed, because hitherto such parties have failed. As areason, is given the extravagant notions of the ladies in point of dress, and it is said that nothing but a ball where they can wear jewels, and atoilet therewith consistent, will please them; that a lady of high rank whohad been in Madrid, having proposed simple tertulias and white muslindresses, half the men in Mexico were ruined that year by the embroideredFrench and India muslins bought by their wives during this reign ofsimplicity; the idea of a plain white muslin, a dress worn by any _lepera_, never having struck them as possible. Nevertheless we can but make theattempt. 

We propose going next week to Tulansingo, where our friends the ----- havea country place, from thence we proceed to visit the mines of Real delMonte. 

23rd. --On Monday we gave a Tertulia, which, notwithstanding allpredictions, went off remarkably well, and consisted of nearly all thepleasantest people in Mexico. We had music, dancing, and cards, and atthree in the morning the German cotillon was still in full vigour. Everyone was disposed to be amused, and, moreover, the young ladies were dressedvery simply; most of them in plain white muslins. There was but a smallsprinkling of diamonds, and that chiefly among the elderly part of thecommunity. Still it is said that the novelty alone induced them to come, and that weekly soirées will not succeed. We shall try. Besides which, theLady of the ----- Minister proposes being At Home on Wednesday evenings;the Lady of the ----- Minister takes another evening; I, a third, and weshall see what can be effected. 

LETTER THE FIFTEENTH

Letter from the Archbishop-Visit to the"Encarnacian"--Reception--Description--TheNovices--Convent-supper--Picturesque Scene--Sonata on the Organ--Attempt atRobbery--Alarms of the Household--Visit to San Agustin--AnonymousLetter--The Virgin de los Remedios--Visit to the Chapel--The Padre--TheImage--Anecdote of the large Pearl-A Mine. 

24th. 

The Archbishop has not only granted me permission to visit the convents, but permits me to take two ladies along with me, of which I have beeninformed by the Minister, Señor C---o, in a very amiable note justreceived, enclosing one from Señor Posada, which I translate for youredification. 

To His Excellency, Señor Don J. De D. C---o. 

April 24th, 1842. 

My dear Friend and Companion:

The Abbess and Nuns of the Convent of the Encarnación are now prepared toreceive the visit of our three pilgrims, next Sunday, at half-past four inthe afternoon, and should that day not suit them, let them mention what daywill be convenient. 

Afterwards we shall arrange their visit to the Concepción, EnsenanzaAntigua, and Jesús María, which are the best, and I shall let you know, andwe shall agree upon the days and hours most suitable. I remain youraffectionate friend and Capellan, MANUEL POSADA. 

Accordingly, on Sunday afternoon, we drove to the _Encarnación_, the mostsplendid and richest convent in Mexico, excepting perhaps la Concepción. Ifit were in any other country, I might mention the surpassing beauty of theevening, but as except in the rainy season, which has not yet begun, theevenings are always beautiful, the weather leaves no room for description. The sky always blue, the air always soft, the flowers always blossoming, the birds always singing; Thomson never could have written his "Seasons"here. We descended at the convent gate, were admitted by the portress, andreceived by several nuns, their faces closely covered with a double crapeveil. We were then led into a spacious hall, hung with handsome lustres, and adorned with various Virgins and Saints magnificently dressed; and herethe eldest, a very dignified old lady, lifted her veil, the othersfollowing her example, and introduced herself as the _Madre Vicaria_;bringing us many excuses from the old abbess, who having an inflammation inher eyes, was confined to her cell. She and another reverend mother, and agroup of elderly dames, tall, thin, and stately, then proceeded to informus, that the archbishop had, in person, given orders for our reception, andthat they were prepared to show us the whole establishment. 

The dress is a long robe of very fine white casimere, a thick black crapeveil, and long rosary. The dress of the novices is the same, only that theveil is white. For the first half-hour or so, I fancied, that along withtheir politeness, was mingled a good deal of restraint, caused perhaps bythe presence of a foreigner, and especially of an Englishwoman. Mycompanions they knew well; the Señorita having even passed some monthsthere. However this may have been, the feeling seemed gradually to wearaway. Kindness or curiosity triumphed; their questions became unceasing;and before the visit was concluded, I was addressed as "_mi vida_" (mylife), by the whole establishment. Where was I born? Where had I lived?What convents had I seen? Which did I prefer, the convents in France, orthose in Mexico? Which were largest? Which had the best garden? etc. , etc. Fortunately, I could, with truth, give the preference to their convent, asto spaciousness and magnificence, over any I ever saw. 

The Mexican style of building is peculiarly advantageous for recluses; thegreat galleries and courts affording them a constant supply of fresh air, while the fountains sound so cheerfully, and the garden in this climate ofperpetual spring affords them such a constant source of enjoyment all theyear round, that one pities their secluded state much less here than in anyother country. 

This convent is in fact a palace. The garden, into which they led us first, is kept in good order, with its stone walks, stone benches, and an ever-playing and sparkling fountain. The trees were bending with fruit, and theypulled quantities of the most beautiful flowers for us; sweet-peas androses, with which all gardens here abound, carnations, jasmine, andheliotrope. It was a pretty picture to see them wandering about, orstanding in groups in this high-walled garden, while the sun was settingbehind the hills, and the noise of the city was completely excluded, everything breathing repose and contentment. Most of the halls in theconvent are noble rooms. We visited the whole, from the refectory to the_botica_, and admired the extreme cleanness of everything, especially ofthe immense kitchen, which seems hallowed from the approach even of aparticle of dust; this circumstance is partly accounted for by the factthat each nun has a servant, and some have two; for this is not one of thestrictest orders. The convent is rich; each novice at her entrance paysfive thousand dollars into the common stock. There are about thirty nunsand ten novices. 

The prevailing sin in a convent generally seems to be pride;

 "The pride that apes humility;"

and it is perhaps nearly inseparable from the conventual state. Set apartfrom the rest of the world, they, from their little world, are too apt tolook down with contempt which may be mingled with envy, or modified bypity, but must be unsuited to a true Christian spirit. 

The novices were presented to us--poor little entrapped things! who reallybelieve they will be let out at the end of the year if they should growtired, as if they would ever be permitted to grow tired! The two eldest andmost reverend ladies are sisters, thin, tall, and stately, with high noses, and remains of beauty. They have been in the convent since they were eightyears old (which is remarkable, as sisters are rarely allowed to profess inthe same establishment), and consider _La Encarnación_ as a small piece ofheaven upon earth. There were some handsome faces amongst them, and onewhose expression and eyes were singularly lovely, but truth to say, thesewere rather exceptions to the general rule. 

Having visited the whole building, and admired one virgin's blue satin andpearls, and another's black velvet and diamonds, sleeping holy infants, saints, paintings, shrines, and confessionals, --having even climbed up theAzotea, which commands a magnificent view, we came at length to a largehall, decorated with paintings and furnished with antique high-backedarm-chairs, where a very elegant supper, lighted up and ornamented, greetedour astonished eyes; cakes, chocolate, ices, creams, custards, tarts, jellies, blancmangers, orange and lemonade, and other profane dainties, ornamented with gilt paper cut into little flags, etc. I was placed in achair that might have served for a pope under a holy family; theSeñora ----- and the Señorita ----- on either side. The elder nuns instately array, occupied the other arm-chairs, and looked like statuescarved in stone. A young girl, a sort of pensionnaire, brought in a littleharp without pedals, and while we discussed cakes and ices, sung differentballads with a good deal of taste. The elder nuns helped us to everything, but tasted nothing themselves. The younger nuns and the novices weregrouped upon a mat a la Turque, and a more picturesque scene altogether onecould scarcely see. 

The young novices in their white robes, white veils, and black eyes, thesevere and dignified madres with their long dresses and mournful-lookingblack veils and rosaries, the veiled figures occasionally flitting alongthe corridor;--ourselves in contrast, with our worldly dresses and colouredribbons; and the great hall lighted by one immense lamp that hung from theceiling--I felt transported three centuries back, and half afraid that thewhole would flit away, and prove a mere vision, a waking dream. 

A gossiping old nun, who hospitably filled my plate with everything, gaveme the enclosed flag cut in gilt paper, which, together with her custardsand jellies, looked less unreal. They asked many questions in regard toSpanish affairs, and were not to be consoled for the defeat of Don Carlos, which they feared would be an end of the true religion in Spain. 

Attempt at Robbery

After supper we proceeded upstairs to the choir (where the nuns attendpublic worship, and which looks down upon the handsome convent church) totry the organ. I was set down to a Sonata of Mozart's, the servants blowingthe bellows. It seems to me that I made more noise than music, for theorgan is very old, perhaps as old as the convent, which dates threecenturies back. However, the nuns were pleased, and after they had sung ahymn, we returned below. I was rather sorry to leave them, and I felt as ifI could have passed some time there very contentedly; but it was near nineo'clock, and we were obliged to take our departure; so having been embracedvery cordially by the whole community, we left the hospitable walls of theEncarnación. 

28th. --Last evening we were sitting at home very quietly about ten o'clock, C---n, Monsieur de -----, of the ----- Legation, and I, when A---- rushedinto the room all dishevelled. "Come quickly, sir! Robbers are breakingopen the kitchen-door!" A succession of feminine shrieks in the distance, added effect to her words. C---n jumped up, ran for his pistols, gave oneto Monsieur de -----, called up the soldiers, but no robbers appeared. Thekitchen-door was indeed open, and the trembling galopina attested, thatbeing in the kitchen alone, dimly lighted by one small lamp, three men, allarmed, had entered, and had rushed out again on hearing her give the alarm. We somewhat doubted her assertions, but the next morning found that the menhad in fact escaped by the Azotea, a great assistance to all Mexicandepredators. At the end of this row of houses the people ran out and firedupon them, but without effect. The house of the old Countess of S---- F----had been broken into, her porter wounded, report says killed, and her platecarried off. In the mean time our soldiers watch in the kitchen, a pair ofloaded pistols adorn the table, a double-barrelled gun stands in thecorner, and a bull-dog growls in the gallery. This little passing visit tous was probably caused by the arrival of some large boxes from London, especially of a very fine harp and piano, both _Erard's_, which I had thepleasure of seeing unpacked this morning, and which, in spite of joltingand bad roads, have arrived in perfect condition. . . . 

Thus far I had written, it being now the evening, and I sitting alone, whena succession of shrieks arose, even more awful than those which alarmed uslast night. At the same time the old _galopina, _ her daughter, and a Frenchgirl who lives here, rushed shouting along the gallery; not a word theysaid comprehensible, but something concerning "a robber in black, with menat his back, who had burst open the door. " At the noise the whole householdhad assembled. One ran this way, one ran that. A little French_teinturier, _ who it appeared had been paying the maids a polite visit, seized the loaded gun; the footman took a pistol and hid himself behind theporter; A----, like a second Joan of Arc, appeared, with a rusty sabre; thesoldiers rushed up with their bayonets; the coachman stood aloof withnothing; the porter led up the rear, holding a large dog by the collar; butno robber appears; and the girls are all sobbing and crying because wedoubt their having seen one. Galopina the younger shedding tears intorrents, swears to the man. Galopina the elder, enveloped in her reboso, swears to any number of men; and the _recamerera_ has cried herself into afit between fear and indignation. 

Such is the agreeable state of things about nine o'clock this evening, forone real attempt to enter the house, invariably gives rise to a thousandimaginary attacks and fanciful alarms. . . . 

After many attempts at walking, I have very nearly abandoned it, but take agreat deal of exercise both on horseback and in the carriage; which last, on account of the ill-paved condition of the streets, affords rather moreexercise than the former. I drove out this morning in an open carriage withthe Señorita E---- to her country-house at San Agustin, the gamblingemporium. But the famous annual fête does not take place till Whitsunday, and the pretty country villas there are at present abandoned. We walked inthe garden till the sun became insupportable. The fragrance of the rosesand jasmine was almost overpowering. There are trees of millefleur roses;heliotrope and honeysuckle cover every pillar, and yellow jasmine trailsover everything. . . . 

Found on my return an anonymous letter, begging me to "beware of my cook!"and signed _Fernandez_. Having shown it to some gentlemen who dined here, one thought it might be a plan of the robbers to get rid of the cook, whomthey considered in their way; another, with more probability, that it wasmerely a plan of the attentive Señor Fernandez to get the cook's place forhimself. 

We went lately to pay a visit to the celebrated Virgen de los Remedies, the_Gachupina_, the Spanish patroness, and rival of Our Lady of Guadalupe. This Virgin was brought over by Cortes, and when he displaced the Indianidols in the great Temple of Mexico, caused them to be broken in pieces, and the sanctuary to be purified, he solemnly placed there a crucifix andthis image of the Virgin; then kneeling before it, gave solemn thanks toHeaven, which had permitted him thus to adore the Most High in a place solong profaned by the most cruel idolatries. 

It is said that this image was brought to Mexico by a soldier of Cortes'sarmy called Villafuerte, and that the day succeeding the terrible _NocheTriste_, it was concealed by him in the place where it was afterwardsdiscovered. At all events, the image disappeared, and nothing further wasknown of it until, on the top of a barren and treeless mountain, in theheart of a large maguey, she was found by a fortunate Indian. Herrestoration was joyfully hailed by the Spaniards. A church was erected onthe spot. A priest was appointed to take charge of the miraculous image. Her fame spread abroad. Gifts of immense value were brought to her shrine. A treasurer was appointed to take care of her jewels; a camarista tosuperintend her rich wardrobe. No rich dowager died in peace until she hadbequeathed to Our Lady of Los Remedios her largest diamond, or her richestpearl. In seasons of drought she is brought in from her dwelling in themountain, and carried in procession through the streets. The viceroyhimself on foot used to lead the holy train. One of the highest rank drivesthe chariot in which she is seated. In succession she visits the principalconvents, and as she is carried through the cloistered precincts, the nunsare ranged on their knees in humble adoration. Plentiful rains immediatelyfollow her arrival. -----, who accompanied us, has on several occasionsfilled the office of her coachman, by which means he has seen the interiorof most of the convents in Mexico. It is true that there came a time whenthe famous curate Hidalgo, the prime mover of the Revolution, having takenas his standard an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, a rivalry arosebetween her and the Spanish Virgin; and Hidalgo having been defeated andforced to fly, the image of the Virgen de los Remedios was conducted toMexico dressed as a general, and invoked as the patroness of Spain. Laterstill, the Virgin herself was denounced as a Gachupina! her general's sashboldly torn from her by the valiant General -----, who also signed herpassport, with an order for her to leave the republic. However, she wasagain restored to her honours, and still retains her treasurers, hercamarista, and sanctum sanctorum. 

Being desirous of seeing this celebrated image, we set off one fineafternoon in a carriage of -----'s, drawn by six unbroken horses, accompanied by him and his lady, and performed four leagues of bad road inan incredibly short space of time. The horses themselves were in an evidentstate of astonishment, for after kicking and plunging, and, as theyimagined, running away, they found themselves driven much faster than theyhad the slightest intention of going: so after a little while theyacknowledged, in -----'s capital coachman, _une main de maître_. 

The mountain is barren and lonely, but the view from its summit isbeautiful, commanding the whole plain. The church is old and not veryremarkable, yet a picturesque object, as it stands in its gay solitariness, with one or two trees beside it, of which one without leaves was entirelycovered with the most brilliant scarlet flowers. Señor ----- having been theVirgin's coachman, the Señora ----- being the daughter of her camarista, and C---n the Minister from the land of her predilection, we were notastonished at the distinguished reception which we met with from thereverend padre, the guardian of the mountain. The church within ishandsome; and above the altar is a copy of the original Virgin. After wehad remained there a little while, we were admitted into the Sanctum, wherethe identical Virgin of Cortes, with a large silver maguey, occupies hersplendid shrine. The priest retired and put on his robes, and thenreturning, and all kneeling before the altar, he recited the _credo_. Thisover, he mounted the steps, and opening the shrine where the Virgin wasencased, knelt down and removed her in his arms. He then presented her toeach of us in succession, every one kissing the hem of her satin robe. Shewas afterwards replaced with the same ceremony. 

The image is a wooden doll about a foot high, holding in its arms an infantJesús, both faces evidently carved with a rude penknife; two holes for theeyes and another for the mouth. This doll was dressed in blue satin andpearls with a crown upon her head and a quantity of hair fastened on to thecrown. No Indian idol could be much uglier. As she has been a good dealscratched and destroyed in the lapse of ages, C---n observed that he wasastonished they had not tried to restore her a little. To this the padrereplied, that the attempt had been made by several artists, each one ofwhom had sickened and died. He also mentioned as one of her miracles, thatliving on a solitary mountain she had never been robbed; but I fear thegood padre is somewhat _oblivious_, as this sacrilege has happened morethan once. On one occasion a crowd of léperos being collected, and theimage carried round to be kissed, one of them, affecting intense devotion, bit off the large pearl that adorned her dress in front, and before thetheft was discovered, he had mingled with the crowd and escaped. Whenreminded of the circumstance, the padre said it was true, but that thethief was a _Frenchman_. After taking leave of the Virgin, we visited thepadre in his own old house, attached to the church, where his onlyattendant, as usual among padres, is an old woman. 

We then made our way on foot down a steep hill, stopping to admire somenoble stone arches, the remains of an aqueduct built by the Spaniards forconveying water from one mountain to the other; and with an Indian for ourguide, visited a newly-discovered, though anciently-opened mine, said to beof silver, and which had until lately been covered with rubbish. We gropedthrough it, and found vaults and excavations and a deep pit of water. C---ngot some Indians to break off pieces of stone for him, which were put intoa sack and sent home for examination. We were so tired of our walk downthis steep and mountainous path, that on our return, I mounted a horse witha man's saddle, belonging to one of the servants, and contrived to keep on, while it climbed up the perpendicular ascent. As this seemed rather aselfish proceeding while the others walked, I invited the Señora ----- tomount also in front; which she did, and the path being almostperpendicular, my head nearly touched the ground, which certainly made theseat not over safe or easy. However, we reached the top of the mountain insafety, though somewhat exhausted with laughing, and were driven home withthe speed of a rail-car. 

LETTER THE SIXTEENTH

Mexico in May--Leave Mexico for Santiago--Coach of Charles X--MexicanTravelling--General Aspect of the Country--Village of Santa Clara--Robbers' House--Temples of the Sun and Moon--San Juan--Mexican Posada--School-house--Skulls--Hard Fare--Travelling Dress--Sopayuca--MilitaryAdministrador--Santiago--Matadors and Picadors--Evenings in the Country-Dances--Mexican Songs--Cempoala--Plaza de Toros--Skill of the Horsemen--Omatusco--Accident--Tulansingo--Beautiful Garden--Mexican Dishes--Fruits--Horses--Games of Forfeits--Ranchera's Dress--Young Girls and theirAdmirers--Verses--Knowledge of Simple Medicine--Indian Baths--HiddenTreasures--Anecdote. 

SANTIAGO, May 6th. 

Before the setting in of the rainy season, we accepted of the invitation ofour friends the -----s, to visit the different haciendas, as in a shorttime the roads will become nearly impassable. The country in May is perhapsat its highest beauty, or even a little earlier, as already the great blowof roses is nearly over; _au reste_ there are roses all the year round, though more in December than in July. And this, by the way, is rather asource of disappointment to the unwary traveller. He arrives in December, and finds the gardens full of flowers. "If this be the case in December, "says he to himself, "what will it be in May?" May comes--the roses areover, and the chief flowers in the gardens are dahlias and marigolds, ourautumnal flowers--September, and these autumnal flowers still bloom, andwith them you have mignonette and roses, and then pinks and jasmine, andother flowers. In fact there seems to be no particular season for anything. 

The weather at present is neither warm nor cold, but colder here than inMexico, and when it does not rain it is lovely. Already there has been muchrain, and the torrents are so swelled, that there was some doubt as towhether our carriages could pass them. 

Yesterday, at five in the morning we left Mexico, in a coach once theproperty of Charles X. "Sic transit, " etc. ; and a most luxurioustravelling-carriage is that of his ex-majesty, entirely covered withgilding, save where the lilies of France surmount the crown, (sad emblemsof the fallen dynasty!) lined with white satin with violet-colouredbinding, the satin cushions most excellently stuffed: large, commodious, and with a movement as soft as that of a gondola. 

A Frenchman bought it on a speculation, and brought it here for sale. Informer days, from its gilded and showy appearance, it would have broughtany price; but the taste for gaudy equipages has gone by since theintroduction of foreign, and especially of English carriages; and thepresent proprietor, who bought it for its intrinsic good qualities, paidbut a moderate sum for it. In this carriage, drawn by six strong horses, with two first-rate coachmen and several outriders well-armed, we wentalong at great speed. The drivers, dressed Mexican fashion, with all theiraccoutrements smart and new, looked very picturesque. Jackets and trousersof deerskin, and jackets embroidered in green, with hanging silver buttons, the trousers also embroidered and slit up the side of the leg, trimmed withsilver buttons, and showing an under pair of unbleached linen; these, withthe postilions' boots, and great hats with gold rolls, form a dress whichwould _faire fureur_, if some adventurous Mexican would venture to displayit on the streets of London. 

We left the city by the gate of Guadalupe, and passed by the greatcathedral, our road lying over the marshy plains once covered by the watersof Lake Tezcuco. 

To the east lay the great lake, its broad waters shining like a sheet ofmolten silver, and the two great volcanoes: the rising sun forming a crownof rays on the white brow of Popocatepetl. 

To describe once for all the general aspect of the country on this side ofthe valley of Mexico, suffice it to say, that there is a universal air ofdreariness, vastiness, and desolation. The country is flat, but alwaysenlivened by the surrounding mountains, like an uninteresting painting in adiamond frame; and yet it is not wholly uninteresting. It has a characterpeculiar to itself, great plains of maguey, with its huts with uncultivatedpatches, that have once been gardens, still filled with flowers and chokedwith weeds; the huts themselves, generally of mud, yet not unfrequently ofsolid stone, roofless and windowless, with traces of having been finebuildings in former days; the complete solitude, unbroken except by thepassing Indian, certainly as much in a state of savage nature as the lowerclass of Mexicans were when Cortes first traversed these plains--with thesame character, gentle and cowardly, false and cunning, as weak animals areapt to be by nature, and indolent and improvident as men are in a fineclimate; ruins everywhere--here a viceroy's country palace serving as atavern, where the mules stop to rest, and the drivers to drink pulque--there, a whole village crumbling to pieces; roofless houses, broken downwalls and arches, an old church--the remains of a convent. . . . For leaguesscarcely a tree to be seen; then a clump of the graceful Arbol de Peru, orone great cypress--long strings of mules and asses, with their drivers--pasture-fields with cattle--then again whole tracts of maguey, as far asthe eye can reach; no roads worthy of the name, but a passage made betweenfields of maguey, bordered by crumbling-down low stone walls, causing ajolting from which not even the easy movement of Charles X's coach can saveus. But the horses go at full gallop, accustomed to go through and overeverything. 

The first village we saw was Santa Clara, to our left, lying at the foot ofsome dark hills, with its white church and flat-roofed or no-roofed houses. There being no shade, frequently not a tree for leagues, the sun and dustvery disagreeable, and became more so as the day advanced. Here it came topass, that, travelling rapidly over the hot and dusty plains, the wheels ofour carriage began to smoke. No house was in sight--no water within ken. Itwas a case of difficulty; when suddenly ----- recollected that not far fromthence was an old rancho, a deserted farmhouse at present occupied byrobbers; and having ordered the coachman to drive to within a few hundredyards of this house, he sent a servant on horse- back with a _medio_(fourpence) to bring some water, which was treating the robbers likehonourable men. The man galloped off, and shortly returned with a can fullof water, which he carried back when the fire was extinguished. 

Meanwhile we examined, as well as we could, the external appearance of therobbers' domicile, which was an old half-ruined house, standing alone onthe plain, with no tree near it. Several men, with guns, were walking upand down before the house--sporting-looking characters, but ratherdirty--apparently either waiting for some expected _game_, or going insearch of it. Women with rebosos, were carrying water, and walking amongstthem. There were also a number of dogs. The well-armed men who accompaniedus, and the name of -----, so well known in these parts, that once when hiscarriage was surrounded by robbers, he merely mentioned who he was, andthey retreated with many apologies for their mistake, precluded all dangerof an attack; but woe to the solitary horseman or the escorted carriagethat should pass thereby! Nor, indeed, are they always in the same mood, for Señor -----'s houses have been frequently attacked in his absence, andhis hacienda at Santiago once stood a regular siege, the robbers being atlength repulsed by the bravery of his servants. 

We set off again _au grand galop_, drivers and outriders giving, from timeto time, the most extraordinary shrieks to encourage the horses and toamuse themselves, wild and shrill enough to frighten any civilizedquadruped. The road grew more picturesque as we advanced, and at length ourattention was arrested by the sight of the two great pyramids, which riseto the east of the town of San Juan Teotihuacan, which are mentioned byHumboldt, and have excited the curiosity and attention of every succeedingtraveller. The huge masses were consecrated to the sun and moon, which, inthe time of Cortes, were there represented by two vast stone idols, coveredwith gold. The conquerors made use of the gold, and broke the idols inpieces, by order of the first bishop of Mexico. Unfortunately, our time wastoo limited to give them more than a passing observation. Fragments ofobsidian, in the form of knives and of arrows, with which the priestsopened the breasts of their human victims, are still to be found there; andnumerous small idols, made of baked clay, are to be seen both there and inthe plains adjoining. The Indians rather dislike to guide travellers tothese pyramids, and their reluctance to do so has increased the popularbelief of the existence of great concealed treasures near or in them. 

The whole plain on which these great pyramids stand was formerly calledMicoatl, or the Pathway of the Dead; and the hundreds of smaller pyramidswhich surround the larger ones (the Temples of the Sun and Moon) aresymmetrically disposed in wide streets, forming a great burial-plain, composed perhaps of the dust of their ancient warriors, an Aztec or ToltecPere-la-Chaise, or rather a roofless Westminster Abbey. So few of theancient _teocallis_ now remain, and these being nearly the only traces nowexisting of that extraordinary race, we regretted the more not being ableto devote some time to their examination. Fanaticism and policy induced theSpanish conquerors to destroy these heathen temples; and when we recollectthat at the time of the Reformation in civilized England, the most splendidCatholic edifices were made level with the ground, in compliance with theferocious edict of John Knox, "Ding down the nests, and the rooks will flyoff, " we can have little wonder or blame to bestow upon Cortes, who, in theexcitement of the siege, gave orders for the destruction of these blood-stained sanctuaries. In the afternoon we arrived at San Juan, a prettyvillage, boasting of an inn, a school-house, an avenue of fine trees, and astream of clear water. It is true that the inn is a Mexican posada, bearingas much resemblance to what is generally called an inn, as an hacienda doesto an English country-house; the school-house, a room with a mud floor anda few dirty benches, occupied by little ragged boys and girls; but theavenue is pretty, the grass as green as emeralds, and the water crystal. Wewalked out while they changed horses, of which Señor ----- had fresh relaysof his own prepared all along the road; and entered the school-house, attracted by the noise and the invitingly open door. The master was a poor, ragged, pale, careworn looking young man, seemingly half-dinned with thenoise, but very earnest in his work. The children, all speaking at once, were learning to spell out of some old bills of Congress. Several moralsentences were written on the wall in very independent orthography. C---nhaving remarked to the master that they were ill-spelt, he seemed very muchastonished, and even inclined to doubt the fact. I thought it was one ofthose cases where ignorance is bliss, and fear the observation may havecost the young man a night's rest. 

A row of grinning skulls was ranged round the wall of the churchyard, andthe sexton, who gave us admittance to the church, taking up one to show itoff, it all crumbled into dust, which filled the air like a cloud. 

At the posada they gave us rancid sheep's milk, cheese, and biscuits sohard, that C---n asked the host if they were made in the same year with thechurch; at which he seemed mightily pleased, and could not stop laughingtill we got into the carriage. 

Soon after leaving San Juan we were met by the Señora de -----, in an opencarriage, coming with her children to meet us; and though she had travelledsince sunrise from her hacienda, she appeared as if freshly dressed for anevening party; her dress, amber-coloured crape, trimmed with white blonde, short sleeves and _decolletee_; a set of beautiful Neapolitan strawberry-coral, set in gold, straw-coloured satin shoes, and a little China crapeshawl, embroidered in bright flowers; her hair dressed and uncovered. 

We stopped at their hacienda of Sopayuca, an old house, standing solitaryin the midst of great fields of maguey. It has a small deserted gardenadjoining, amongst whose tangled bushes a pretty little tame deer wasplaying, with its half-startled look and full wild eye. We found anexcellent breakfast prepared, and here, for the first time, I conceived thepossibility of not disliking _pulque_. We visited the large buildings whereit is kept, and found it rather refreshing, with a sweet taste and a creamyfroth upon it, and with a much less decided odour than that which is soldin Mexico. 

This hacienda is under the charge of an administrador, to whom ----- pays alarge annual sum, and whose place is by no means a sinecure, as he lives inperpetual danger from robbers. He is captain of a troop of soldiers, and ashis life has been spent in "persecuting robbers, " he is an object ofintense hatred to that free and independent body, and has some thoughts ofremoving to another part of the country, where he may be more tranquil. Hegave us a terrible account of these night attacks, of the ineffectualprotection afforded him by the government, and of the nearly insuperabledifficulties thrown in the way of any attempt to bring these men tojustice. He lately told the president that he had some thoughts of joiningthe robbers himself, as they were the only persons in the republicprotected by the government. The president, however, is not to blame inthis matter. He has used every endeavour to check these abuses; anddifficulties have been thrown in his way from very unexpected sources. . . . 

_A propos_ to which, the ----- consul told us the other day, that some timeago, having occasion to consult Judge ----- upon an affair of importance, he was shown into an apartment where that functionary was engaged with somesuspicious-looking individuals, or rather who were above suspicion, theirappearance plainly indicating their calling. On the table before him lay anumber of guns, swords, pistols, and all sorts of arms. The Judge requestedMonsieur de ----- to be seated, observing that he was investigating a caseof robbery committed by these persons. The robbers were seated, smokingvery much at their ease, and the Judge was enjoying the same innocentrecreation; when his cigar becoming extinguished, one of these gentlementaking his from his mouth, handed it to the magistrate, who relighted his_puro_ (cigar) at it, and returned it with a polite bow. In short, theywere completely _hand in glove_. 

In the evening we reached Santiago, where we now are, about eighteenleagues from Mexico, a large house in a wild-looking country, standing insolitary state, with hills behind, and rocks before it, and surrounded bygreat uncultivated plains and pasture-fields. Everything is _en grande_ inthis domain. There is a handsome chapel and sacristy; a plaza de toros;hundreds of horses and mules; and between _dependientes_ and hangers-on, wesat down, thirty or forty people, to dinner. 

7th. --The very day of our arrival, Bernardo the Matador, with his men, arrived from Mexico, bringing their superb dresses with them, for thepurpose of giving us a country bull-fight. As an hacienda of this kind isan immense empty house, without furniture or books, all the amusement is tobe found either out of doors, or in large parties in the house; and theunostentatious hospitality which exists in this and some other of the oldfamilies, is a pleasing remnant of Spanish manners and habits, now fallinginto disuse, and succeeded by more pretension to refinement, and less ofeither real wealth or sociability. 

In the evening here, all assemble in a large hall; the Señora de -----playing the piano; while the whole party, agents, dependientes, major-domo, coachmen, matadors, picadors, and women-servants, assemble andperform the dances of the country; _jarabes, aforrados, enanos, palomos, zapateros, _ etc. , etc. It must not be supposed that in this apparentmingling of ranks between masters and servants, there is the slightest wantof respect on the part of the latter; on the contrary, they seem to exertthemselves, as in duty bound, for the amusement of their master and hisguests. There is nothing republican in it; no feeling of equality; as faras I have seen, that feeling does not exist here, except between people ofthe same rank. It is more like some remains of the feudal system, where theretainers sat at the same table with their chief, but below the salt. Thedances are monotonous, with small steps and a great deal of shuffling, butthe music is rather pretty, and some of the dancers were very graceful andagile; and if it were not invidious to make distinctions, we _might_particularize Bernardo the Matador, the head coachman, and a handsomepeasant-girl, with a short scarlet and yellow petticoat, and a foot andankle _á la Vestris_. They were all very quiet, but seemed in a state ofintense enjoyment; and some of the men accompanied the dancers on theguitar. 

First the player strikes up in quick time, and the dancer performs a quickmovement; then the musician accompanies the music with his voice, and thedancer goes through some slow steps. Such is the case in the _Aforrado_ or_Lining_, a _curious nom de tendresse_, expressive, I suppose, of somethingsoft and well wadded. The words are as follow:

 1. 

 Aforrado de mi vida! Come estás, como te va? Como has pasado la noche, No has tenido novedad?

 2. 

 Aforrado de mi vida! Yo te quisiera cantar, Pero mis ojos son tiernos, Y empazaran á llorar. 

 3. 

 De Guadalajara vengo, Lideando con un soldado, Solo por venir a ver A mi jarabe aforrado. 

 4. 

 Y vente conmigo, Y yo te daré Zapatos de raso Color de café. 

Of these poetical sublimities, a translation at once literal and metrical, would, we think, damp the spirit of a Coleridge. 

 1. 

 Lining of my life! How are you? how do you do? How have you passed the night? Have you met with nothing new?

 2. 

 Lining of my life! To you I should like to sing; But that my eyes are weak, And tears might begin to spring. 

 3. 

 From Guadalajara fighting, With a soldier I came on, My well-lined _sweet syrup_! I came to see you alone. 

 4. 

 And come then with me, And I will give thee Such fine shoes of satin, The colour of _tea_. 

It is _coffee_, but you will excuse the poetical licence. The music marriedto this "immortal verse, " I have learned by ear, and shall send you. In the"_enanos_" (the dwarfs) the dancer _makes himself little_, every time thechorus is sung. 

 1. 

 Ah! que bonitos Son los enanos, Los chiquititos Y Mejicanos. 

 2. 

 Sale la linda, Sale la fea, Sale el enano, Con su zalea. 

 3. 

 Los enanitos Se enojaron, Porque a las enanas Les pellizcaron. 

There are many more verses, but I think you will find these quitesatisfactory, "Ah! how pretty are the dwarfs, the little ones, theMexicans! Out comes the pretty one, out comes the ugly one, out comes thedwarf with his jacket of skin. The little he-dwarfs were angry, becausesome one pinched the she-dwarfs. " There is another called the _Toro_, ofwhich the words are not very interesting; and the _Zapatero_, or shoemaker, was very well danced by a gentleman who accompanied himself, at the sametime, on the guitar. 

Yesterday morning we set off in a burning sun, over a perfect Egyptiandesert, to visit the famous arches of Cempoala, a magnificent work, whichwe are told had greatly excited the admiration of Mr. Poinsett when in thiscountry. This aqueduct, the object of whose construction was to supplythese arid plains with water, was the work of a Spanish Franciscan friar, and has never been entirely concluded. We travelled about six leagues, andsat there for hours, looking up at the great stone arches, which seem likea work of giants. 

In the afternoon we all rode to the Plaza de Toros. The evening was cool, and our horses good, the road pretty and shady, and the plaza itself a mostpicturesque enclosure, surrounded by lofty trees. Chairs were placed for uson a raised platform; and the bright green of the trees, the flashingdresses of the _toreadors_, the roaring of the fierce bulls, the spiritedhorses, the music and the cries; the Indians shouting from the trees upwhich they had climbed; all formed a scene of savage grandeur, which for ashort time at least is interesting. Bernardo was dressed in blue satin andgold; the picadors in black and silver; the others in maroon-coloured satinand gold; all those on foot wear knee-breeches and white silk stockings, alittle black cap with ribbons, and a plait of hair streaming down behind. The horses were generally good, and as each new adversary appeared, seemedto participate in the enthusiasm of their riders. One bull after anotherwas driven in roaring, and as here they are generally fierce, and theirhorns not blunted as in Mexico, it is a much more dangerous affair. Thebulls were not killed, but were sufficiently tormented. One stuck full ofarrows and fireworks, all adorned with ribbons and coloured paper, made asudden spring over an immensely high wall, and dashed into the woods. Ithought afterwards of this unfortunate animal, how it must have beenwandering about all night, bellowing with pain, the concealed arrowspiercing its flesh, and looking like gay ornaments;

 "So, when the watchful shepherd, from the blind, Wounds with a random shaft the careless hind, Distracted with her pain, she flies the woods, Bounds o'er the lawn, and seeks the silent floods-- With fruitless care; for still the fatal dart Sticks in her side, and rankles in her heart. "

If the arrows had stuck too deep, and that the bull could not rub them offagainst the trees, he must have bled to death. Had he remained, his fatewould have been better, for when the animal is entirely exhausted theythrow him down with a laso, and pulling out the arrows put ointment on thewounds. 

The skill of the men is surprising; but the most curious part of theexhibition was when a coachman of -----'s, a strong, handsome Mexican, mounted on the back of a fierce bull, which plunged and flung himself aboutas if possessed by a legion of demons, and forced the animal to gallopround and round the arena. The bull is first caught by the laso, and thrownon his side, struggling furiously. The man mounts while he is still on theground. At the same moment the laso is withdrawn, and the bull starts up, maddened by feeling the weight of his unusual burden. The rider mustdismount in the same way, the bull being first thrown down, otherwise hewould be gored in a moment. It is terribly dangerous, for if the man wereto lose his seat, his death is nearly certain; but these Mexicans aresuperb riders. A monk, who is attached to the establishment, seems anardent admirer of these sports, and his presence is useful, in case of adangerous accident occurring, which is not unfrequent. 

The amusement was suddenly interrupted by sudden darkness, and a tremendousstorm of rain and thunder, in the midst of which we mounted our horses, andgalloped home. 

TULANSINGO----, 8th. 

Another bull-fight last evening! It is like pulque; one makes wry faces atit at first, and then begins to like it. One thing we soon discovered;which was, that the bulls, if so inclined, could leap upon our platform, asthey occasionally sprang over a wall twice as high. There was a part of thespectacle rather too horrible. The horse of one of the picadors was gored, his side torn up by the bull's horns, and in this state, streaming withblood, he was forced to gallop round the circle. 

We spent one day in visiting Omatusco, an hacienda belonging to the SeñoraT---a, situated in the plains of Apan, and famous for the superiorexcellence of its pulque. The organas, the nopal, and great fields ofmaguey, constitute the chief vegetation for many miles round. The haciendaitself, a fine large building, stands lonely and bleak in the midst ofmagueys. A fine chapel, left unfinished since her husband's death, attracted our attention by its simple architecture and unpretendingelegance. It is nearly impossible to conceive anything more lonely than aresidence here must be; or in fact in any of the haciendas situated onthese great plains of Otumha and Apan. 

This morning we set off for Tulansingo, in four carriages-and-six, containing the whole family, ourselves, maids, and children, padre andnursery governess; relays being placed all along the road, which wetraversed at full gallop. But in crossing some great pasture-fields, thedrivers of two of the carriages began to race; one of the horses fell andthrew the postilion; the carriage itself was overturned, and though none ofthe inmates was injured, the poor _mozo_ was terribly wounded in his headand legs. No assistance being near, he changed places with one of the menon horseback, and was brought on slowly. 

About three in the afternoon we arrived at Tulansingo, rather an importantcity in its way, and which has been the theatre of many revolutionaryevents; with various streets and shops, a handsome church; alcaldes, aprefect, etc. There appear to be some few good houses and decent families, and clean, small shops, and there are pretty, shady walks in the environs;and though there are also plenty of miserable dwellings and dirty people, it is altogether rather a civilized place. The house of -----, which standswithin a courtyard, and is the house par excellence, is very handsome, withlittle furniture, but with some remnants of luxury. The dining-hall is anoble room, with beautiful Chinese paper, opening into a garden, which isthe boast of the republic, and is indeed singularly pretty, and kept inbeautiful order, with gravel walks and fine trees, clear tanks andsparkling fountains, and an extraordinary profusion of the most beautifulflowers, roses especially. There is something extremely oriental in itsappearance, and the fountains are ornamented with China vases and Chinesefigures of great value. Walking along under arches formed by rose-bushes, asmall column of water spouted forth from each bush, sprinkling us all overwith its showers. But the prettiest thing in the garden is a great tank ofclear water, enclosed on three sides by a Chinese building, round whichruns a piazza with stone pillars, shaded by a drapery of white curtains. Comfortable well-cushioned sofas are arranged along the piazza, which opensinto a large room, where one may dress after bathing. It is the prettiestand coolest retreat possible, and entirely surrounded by trees and roses. Here one may lie at noonday, with the sun and the world completely shutout. They call this an English garden, than which it rather resembles thesummer retreat of a sultan. 

When we arrived, we found dinner laid for forty persons, and the tableornamented by the taste of the gardener, with pyramids of beautifulflowers. 

I have now formed acquaintance with many Mexican dishes; _mole_ (meatstewed in red chile), boiled nopal, fried bananas, green chile, etc. Thenwe invariably have _frijoles_ (brown beans stewed), hot tortillas--and thisbeing in the country, pulque is the universal beverage. In Mexico, tortillas and pulque are considered unfashionable, though both are to bemet with occasionally, in some of the best old houses. They have here amost delicious species of cream cheese made by the Indians, and ate withvirgin honey. I believe there is an intermixture of goats' milk in it; butthe Indian families who make it, and who have been offered large sums forthe receipt, find it more profitable to keep their secret. 

Every dinner has _puchero_ immediately following the soup; consisting ofboiled mutton, beef, bacon, fowls, garbanzos (a white bean), small gourds, potatoes, boiled pears, greens, and any other vegetables; a piece of eachput on your plate at the same time, and accompanied by a sauce of herbs ortomatoes. 

As for fruits, we have mameys, chirimoyas, granaditas, white and blackzapotes; the black, sweet, with a green skin and black pulp, and with blackstones in it; the white resembling it in outward appearance and form, butwith a white pulp, and the kernel, which is said to be poisonous, is verylarge, round, and white. It belongs to a larger and more leafy tree thanthe black zapote, and grows in cold or temperate climates; whereas theother is a native of _tierra caliente_. Then there is the chicozapote, ofthe same family, with a whitish skin, and a white or rose-tinged pulp; thisalso belongs to the warm regions. The capulin, or Mexican cherry; themango, of which the best come from Orizaba and Cordova; the cayote, etc. Ofthese I prefer the chirimoya, zapote blanco, granadita, and mango; but thisis a matter of taste. 

12th. --We have spent some days here very pleasantly; riding amongst thehills in the neighbourhood, exploring caves, viewing waterfalls, andclimbing on foot or on horseback, wherever foot or horse could penetrate. No habits to be worn in these parts, as I found from experience, afterbeing caught upon a gigantic maguey, and my gown torn in two. It iscertainly always the wisest plan to adopt the customs of the country onelives in. A dress either of stuff, such as merino, or of muslin, as shortas it is usually worn, a reboso tied over one shoulder, and a large strawhat, is about the most convenient costume that can be adopted. The horsesare small, but strong, spirited, and well-made; generally unshod, whichthey say makes the motion more agreeable; and almost all, at least allladies' horses, are taught the _paso_, which I find tiresome for acontinuance, though a good paso-horse will keep up with others that gallop, and for a longer time. 

The great amusement here in the evening is playing at _juegos de prendas_, games with forfeits, which I recommend to all who wish to make a rapidimprovement in the Spanish tongue. Last night, being desired to name aforfeit for the padre, I condemned him to dance the _jarabe_, of which heperformed a few steps in his long gown and girdle, with equal awkwardnessand good nature. We met to-day the prettiest little ranchera, a farmer'swife or daughter, riding in front of a _mozo_ on the same horse, theirusual mode, dressed in a short embroidered muslin petticoat, white satinshoes, a pearl necklace, and earrings, a reboso, and a large round strawhat. The ladies sit their horse on a contrary side to our fashion. Theyhave generally adopted English saddles, but the farmers' wives frequentlysit in a sort of chair, which they find much more commodious. 

Some country ladies, who attended mass in the chapel this morning, weredressed in very short clear white muslin gowns, very much starched, and sodisposed as to show two under-petticoats, also stiffly starched, andtrimmed with lace, their shoes coloured satin. Considered as a costume oftheir own, I begin to think it rather pretty. The oldest women here or inMexico never wear caps; nothing but their own gray hair, sometimes cutshort, sometimes turned up with a comb, and not unusually tied behind in apigtail. There is no attempt to conceal the ravages of time. . . . 

It appears to me, that amongst the young girls here there is not thatdesire to enter upon the cares of matrimony, which is to be observed inmany other countries. The opprobious epithet of "old maid" is unknown. Agirl is not the less admired because she has been ten or a dozen years insociety; the most severe remark made on her is that she is "hard toplease. " No one calls her _passee_, or looks out for a new face to admire. I have seen no courting of the young men either in mothers or daughters; nomatch-making mammas, or daughters looking out for their own interests. Infact, young people have so few opportunities of being together, thatMexican marriages must be made in heaven; for I see no opportunity ofbringing them about upon earth! The young men when they do meet with youngladies in society, appear devoted to and very much afraid of them. I knowbut one lady in Mexico who has the reputation of having manoeuvred all herdaughters into great marriages; but she is so clever, and her daughterswere such beauties, that it can have cost her no trouble; as forflirtation, the name is unknown, and the thing. 

I have been taking lessons in the Indian dances from Doña R---a; they arenot ungraceful, but lazy and monotonous. . . . 

On every door in this house there is a printed paper to the followingeffect:

 "Quien á esta casa da luz? Jesús. Quien la llena de alegria? María. Y quien la abraza en la fé? José. Luego bien claro se vé Que siempre habra contrición, Teniendo en la corazón, A Jesús, María, y José. "

 "Who gives light to this house? Jesús. Who fills it with joy? Mary. Who kindles faith in it? Joséph. Then we see very clearly That there will always be contrition, Keeping in our hearts, Jesús, Mary, and Joséph. "

These are written in verse, and below: "The most illustrious Bishop ofMonte-Rey, Don Fray José de Jesús María Balaunzaran, hereby ordains andgrants, along with the Bishops of Puebla, Durango, Valladolid andGuadalajara, two hundred days of indulgence to all those who devoutlyrepeat the above ejaculation, and invoke the sweet names of Mary, Jesús, and Joséph. ". . . The people here have certainly a poetical vein in theircomposition. Everything is put into verse--sometimes doggerel, like theabove (in which _luz_ rhyming with _Jesús_, shows that the _z_ ispronounced here like an _s_), occasionally a little better, but always inrhyme. 

We went this evening to visit the Countess del -----, who has a house inthe village. Found her in bed, feverish, and making use of simple remedies, such as herbs, the knowledge and use of which have descended from theancient Indians to the present lords of the soil. The Spanish historianswho have written upon the conquest of Mexico, all mention the knowledgewhich the Mexican physicians had of herbs. It was supposed by these last, that for every infirmity there was a remedy in the herbs of the field; andto apply them according to the nature of the malady, was the chief scienceof these primitive professors of medicine. Much which is now used inEuropean pharmacy is due to the research of Mexican doctors; such assarsaparilla, jalap, friars' rhubarb, _mechoacan_, etc. ; also variousemetics, antidotes to poison, remedies against fever, and an infinitenumber of plants, minerals, gums, and simple medicines. As for theirinfusions, decoctions, ointments, plasters, oils, etc. , Cortés himselfmentions the wonderful number of these which he saw in the Mexican marketfor sale. From certain trees they distilled balsams; and drew a balsamicliquid both from a decoction of the branches, and from the bark steeped inwater. Bleeding and bathing were their other favourite remedies. Thecountry-people breathed a vein with a maguey-point, and when they could notfind leeches, substituted the prickles of the American-hedgehog. 

Besides bathing in the rivers, lakes, tanks, and fountains, they used abath which is still to be seen in many Indian villages, and which they callthe temezcalli. It is made of unbaked bricks; its form is that of a baker'soven, about eight feet wide and six high; the pavement rather convex, andlower than the surface of the soil. A person can enter this bath only onhis knees. Opposite the entry is a stone or brick stove, its openingtowards the exterior of the bath, with a hole to let out the smoke. Beforethe bath is prepared, the floor inside is covered with a mat, on which isplaced a jar of water, some herbs and leaves of corn. The stove is thenheated until the stones which unite it with the bath become red-hot. Whenthe bather enters the entry is closed, and the only opening left is a holeat the top of the vault, which, when the smoke of the oven has passedthrough, is also shut. They then pour water upon the red-hot stones, fromwhich a thick vapour arises, which fills the temezcalli. The bather thenthrows himself on the mat, and drawing down the steam with the herbs andmaize, wets them in the tepid water of the jar, and if he has any pain, applies them to the part affected. This having produced perspiration, thedoor is opened and the well-baked patient comes out and dresses. Forfevers, for bad colds, for the bite of a poisonous animal, this is said tobe a certain cure; also for acute rheumatism. 

For the cure of wounds, the Spaniards found the Mexican remedies mostefficacious. Cortes himself was cured by one of their doctors of a severewound in the head, received at Otumba, through which we lately passed. Forfractures, for humours, for everything they had their remedy; sometimespulverizing the seeds of plants, and attributing much of their efficacy tothe superstitious ceremonies and prayers which they used while applyingthem, especially those which they offered up to _Tzapotlatenan_, thegoddess of medicine. 

A great deal of this knowledge is still preserved amongst theirdescendants, and considered efficacious. For every illness there is anherb, for every accident a remedy. Baths are in constant use, althoughthese temezcallis are confined to the Indians. In every family there issome knowledge of simple medicine, very necessary, in _haciendas_especially, where no physician can possibly be procured. 

There is a hill upon----'s property, said to contain much buried treasure. There are many traditions here of this concealed Indian wealth, but verylittle gold has been actually recovered from these mountain-tombs. Buriedgold has occasionally come to light; not by researches in the mountains, for few are rash enough to throw away their money in search of what wouldprobably prove an imaginary treasure; but by accident--in the ruins of oldhouses, where the proprietors had deposited it for safety in some period ofrevolution; perhaps no later than at the time of the Spanish expulsion. 

Some years ago, an old and very poor woman rented a house in the environsof Mexico, as old and wretched as herself, for four reals a week. It had anold broken-up stone _patio_ (inner courtyard), which she used occasionallyto sweep with a little old broom. One day she observed two or three stonesin this patio larger and more carefully put together than the others, andthe little old woman, being a daughter of Eve by some collateral branch, poked down and worked at the stones until she was able to raise them up-when lo and behold, she discovered a can full of treasure; no less thanfive thousand dollars in gold! Her delight and her fright were unbounded;and, being a prudent old lady, she determined, in the first place, to leavethe house, and next to bring in her treasure, _poquito a poquito_ (littleby little), to a room in Mexico, keeping the old house as a sort of bank. She did so; took a nice room, and instead of sleeping on a _petate_ (mat), as she had hitherto done, bought herself a little bedstead, and even amattress; treated herself not only to chocolate, but a few bottles of goodwine! Such extraordinary luxury could not fail to create suspicion. She wasquestioned by her neighbours, and at length intrusted her secret to theirkeeping. History says, that notwithstanding this, she was not robbed, andwas allowed to enjoy her good fortune in peace. It is difficult to creditsuch a miracle in this land of picking and stealing, but rny authority isbeyond impeachment. 

. . . Whilst I write on these irrelevant matters, I am warned that thecoaches are at the door, and that we are about setting off for Tepenacasco, another hacienda of Señor---'s, a few leagues from this. 

LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH

Arrival at Tepenacasco--Lake with Wild-duck--Ruined Hacienda--Sunset on thePlains--Troop of Asses--Ride by Moonlight--Leave Tepenacasco--SanMiguel--Description--Thunderstorm--Guasco--Journey to Real delMonte--English Road--Scenery--Village of Real--Count de Regla--Director'sHouse--English Breakfast--Visit to the Mines--The Cascade--TheStorm--Loneliness--A Journey in Storm and Darkness--Return toTepenacasco--Journey to Sopayuca--Narrow Escape--Famous Bull--Return toMexico. 

TEPENACASCO. 

This is a fine wild scene. The house stands entirely alone; not a tree nearit. Great mountains rise behind it, and in every other direction, as far asthe eye can reach, are vast plains, over which the wind comes whistlingfresh and free, with nothing to impede its triumphant progress. In front ofthe house is a clear sheet of water, a great deep square basin forcollecting the rain. These _jagueys_, as they are called, are very commonin Mexico, where there are few rivers, and where the use of machines forraising water is by no means general as yet. There is no garden here, butthere are a few shrubs and flowers in the inner courtyard. The house insideis handsome, with a chapel and a patio, which is occasionally used as aplaza de toros. The rooms are well fitted up, and the bedroom walls coveredwith a pretty French paper, representing scenes of Swiss rural life. Thereare great outhouses, stables for the mules and horses, and stone barns forthe wheat and barley, which, together with pulque, form the produce of thishacienda. 

We took a long ride this morning to visit a fine lake where there areplenty of wild-duck and turtle. The gentlemen took their guns and hadtolerable sport. The lake is very deep, so that boats have sailed on it, and several miles in circumference, with a rivulet flowing from it. Yetwith all this water the surrounding land, not more than twenty feet higher, is dry and sterile, and the lake is turned to no account, either from wantof means, or of hydraulic knowledge. However, C---n having made someobservation on this subject, the proprietor of the lake and of a ruinedhouse standing near, which is the very picture of loneliness anddesolation, remarked in reply, that from this estate to Mexico, thedistance is thirty-six leagues; that a load of wheat costs one real aleague, and moreover the _alcaba_, the duty which has to be paid at thegates of Mexico, so that it would bring no profit if sent there; while inthe surrounding district there is not sufficient population to consume theproduce; so that these unnecessary and burdensome taxes, the thinness ofthe population, and the want of proper means of transport, impede theprosperity of the people, and check the progress of agriculture. . . . 

I had a beautiful horse, but half-broke, and which took fright and ran offwith me. I got great credit for keeping my seat so well, which I mustconfess was more through good fortune than skill. The day was delightful, the air exhilarating, and the blue sky perfectly cloudless as we gallopedover the plains; but at length the wind rose so high that we dismounted, and got into the carriage. We sat by the shores of the lake, and walkedalong its pebbly margin, watching the wild-duck as they skimmed over itsglassy surface, and returned home in a magnificent sunset; the glorious godhimself a blood-red globe, surrounded by blazing clouds of gold andcrimson. 

In the evening a troop of asses were driven across the plain, and led roundto the back of the house; and we were all called out in haste, and eachdesired to choose one of the long-eared fraternity for our particular use. Some had saddles and some had none, but we mounted to the number of thirtypersons, followed by a cavalcade of little ragged boys armed with sticksand whips. My ass was an obstinate brute, whom I had mistakenly chosen forhis sleek coat and open countenance; but by dint of being lashed up, hesuddenly set off at full gallop, and distanced all the others. Suchscreaming and laughing and confusion! and so much difficulty in keeping theparty together? It was nearly dark when we set off; but the moon rose, thesilver disc lighting up the hills and the plains; the wind fell, and thenight was calm and delightful. We rode about six miles to a pretty littlechapel with a cross, that gleamed amongst the trees in the moonlight, bythe side of a running stream. Here we dismounted, and sat by the brink ofthe little sparkling rivulet, while the deep shadows came stealing over themountains, and all around was still, and cool, and silent; all but themerry laughter of our noisy cavalcade. We returned about eleven o'clock, few accidents having occurred. Doña R---a had fallen once. Doña M---- hadcrushed her foot against her neighbour's ass. The padre was shaken to ajelly, and the learned senator, who was of the party, declared he shouldnever recover from that night's jolting. To-morrow we shall set off forReal del Monte. 

17th. -After mass in the chapel we left Tepenacasco about seven o'clock, andtravelled (I believe by a short cut) over rocks and walls, torrents andfields of maguey, all in a heavy carriage with six horses. Arriving insight of walls, the mozos gallop on and tear them down. Over the mountain-torrents or _barrancas_, they dash boldly, encouraging the horses by thewildest shrieks. 

We stopped at San Miguel, a country-house belonging to the Count de Regla, the former proprietor of the mines which we were about to visit; the mostpicturesque and lovely place imaginable, but entirely abandoned; the housecomfortless and out of repair. We wandered through paths cut in thebeautiful woods, and by the side of a rivulet that seems to fertilizeeverything through which it winds. We climbed the hills, and made our waythrough the tangled luxuriance of trees and flowers, and in the midst ofhundreds of gaudy blossoms, I neglected them all upon coming to a grassyslope covered with daisies and buttercups. We even found some hawthorn-bushes. It might be English scenery, were it not that there is a richnessin the vegetation unknown in England. But all these beautiful solitudes areabandoned to the deer that wander fearlessly amongst the woods, and thebirds that sing in their branches. While we were still far from the house, a thunderstorm came on. When it rains here, the windows of heaven seemopened, and the clouds pour down water in floods; the lightning alsoappears to me peculiarly vivid, and many more accidents occur from it herethan in the north. We were drenched in five minutes, and in this plightresumed our seats in the carriage, and set off for _Guasco_ (a villagewhere we were to pass the night) in the midst of the pelting storm. In anhour or two the horses were wading up to their knees in water, and wearrived at the pretty village of Guasco in a most comfortless condition. There are no inns in these parts, but we were hospitably received by awidow-lady, a friend of -----'s. 

The Señora de -----, in clear muslin and lace, with satin shoes, was worsethan I in mousseline-de-laine and brode-quins; nevertheless, I mean toadopt the fashion of the country to-morrow, when we are to rise at four togo on to Real del Monte, and try the effect of travelling with clear gown, satin petticoat, and shoes ditto; because "when one is in Rome, " etc. Thestorm continues with such unabated violence, that we must content ourselveswith contemplating the watery landscape from the windows. 

TEPENACASCO. 

Rose in Guasco at tour o'clock; dressed by candle-light, took chocolate, and set off for Real del Monte. After we had travelled a few leagues, tolerably cold, we rejoiced when the sun rose, and dispelling the mist, threw his cheerful light over mountain and wood. The trees looked green andrefreshing after their last night's bath; the very rocks were sparklingwith silver. The morning was perfectly brillia'nt, and every leaf andflower was glittering with the rain-drops not yet dried. The carriageascended slowly the road cut through the mountains by the English company;a fine and useful enterprise; the first broad and smooth road I have seenas yet in the republic. Until it was made, hundreds of mules daily conveyedthe ore from the mines over a dangerous mountain-path, to the hacienda ofRegla, a distance of six or seven leagues. We overtook wagons conveyingtimber to the mines of Real, nine thousand feet above the level of the sea. 

The scenery was magnificent. On one side mountains covered with oak andpine, and carpeted by the brightest-coloured flowers; goats climbing upthe perpendicular rocks, and looking down upon us from theirvantage-ground; fresh clear rivulets, flinging themselves from rock torock, and here and there little Indian huts perched amongst the cliffs; onthe other, the deep valley with its bending forests and gushing river;while far above, we caught a glimpse of Real itself, with its slopingroofs and large church, standing in the very midst of forests andmountains. We began to see people with fair hair and blue eyes, and oneindividual, with a shock of fiery red hair and an undeniable Scotchtwang, I felt the greatest inclination to claim as a countryman. The Indians here looked cleaner than those in or near Mexico, andwere not more than half naked. The whole country here, as well asthe mines, formerly belonged to the Count de Regla, who was so wealthy, that when his son, the present count, was christened, the whole partywalked from his house to the church upon ingots of silver. The countesshaving quarrelled with the vice-queen, sent her, in token ofreconciliation, a white satin slipper, entirely covered with largediamonds. The count invited the King of Spain to visit his Mexicanterritories, assuring him that the hoofs of his majesty's horse shouldtouch nothing but solid silver from Vera Cruz to the capital. This might bea bravado; but a more certain proof of his wealth exists in the fact, thathe caused two ships of the line, of the largest size, to be constructed inHavana at his expense, made of mahogany and cedar, and presented them tothe king. The present count was, as I already told you, married to thebeautiful daughter of the _Guerra Rodriguez. _

We arrived at Real del Monte about nine o'clock, and drove to thedirector's house, which is extremely pretty, commanding a most beautifuland extensive view, and where we found a large fire burning in the grate--very agreeable, as the morning was still somewhat chill, and which had alook of home and comfort that made it still more acceptable. We werereceived with the greatest cordiality by the director, Mr. Rule, and hislady, and invited to partake of the most delicious breakfast that I haveseen for a long while; a happy _melange_ of English and Mexican. The snow-white table-cloth, smoking tea-urn, hot rolls, fresh eggs, coffee, tea, andtoast looked very much _a l'Anglaise, _ while there were numbers ofsubstantial dishes _a l'Espagnole_, and delicious fresh cream-cheeses, toall which our party did ample justice. 

After breakfast, we went out to visit the mines, and it was curious to seeEnglish children, clean and pretty, with their white hair and rosy cheeks, and neat straw bonnets, mingled with the little copper-coloured Indians. Wevisited all the different works; the apparatus for sawing, the turning-lathe, foundry, etc. ; but I regretted to find that we could not descendinto the mines. We went to the mouth of the shaft called the Dolores, whichhas a narrow opening, and is entered by perpendicular ladders. The men godown with conical caps on their heads, in which is stuck a lighted tallowcandle. In the great shaft, called Terreros, they descend, by means ofthese ladders, to the depth of a thousand feet, there being platforms atcertain distances, on which they can rest. We were obliged to contentourselves with seeing them go down, and with viewing and admiring all thegreat works which English energy has established here; the various steam-engines, the buildings for the separation and washing of the ore; the greatstores, workshops, offices, etc. Nearly all the workmen are British, and ofthese the Scotch are preferred. Most of the miners are Indians, who work incompanies, and receive in payment the eighth part of the proceeds. Thedirector gave us some specimens of silver from the great heaps where theylie, sparkling like genii's treasure. 

Although I have not descended into these mines, I might give you adescription of them by what I have heard, and fill my paper witharithmetical figures, by which you might judge of the former and thepresent produce. I might tell you how Don Lucas Alaman went to England, andraised, as if by magic, the enthusiasm of the English; how one fortuneafter another has been swallowed up in the dark, deep gulf of speculation;how expectations have been disappointed; and how the great cause of this isthe scarcity of quicksilver, which has been paid at the rate of one hundredand fifty dollars per quintal in real cash, when the same quantity wasgiven at credit by the Spanish government for fifty dollars; how heaps ofsilver lie abandoned, because the expense of acquiring quicksilver rendersit wholly unprofitable to extract it; and I might repeat the opinion ofthose persons by whom I have heard the subject discussed, who express theirastonishment that, such being the case, an arrangement is not made with thecountry which is the almost exclusive possessor of the quicksilver-mines, by which it might be procured at a lower rate, and this great source ofwealth not thrown away. But for all these matters I refer you to _Humboldtand Ward_, by whom they are scientifically treated, and will not troubleyou with superficial remarks on so important a subject. In fact, I mustconfess that my attention was frequently attracted from the mines, and theengines, and the works of man, and the discussions arising therefrom, tothe stupendous natural scenery by which we were surrounded; the unexploredforests that clothe the mountains to their very summits, the torrents thatleaped and sparkled in the sunshine, the deep ravines, the many-tintedfoliage, the bold and jutting rocks. All combine to increase our admirationof the bounties of nature to this favoured land, to which she has given"every herb bearing seed, and every tree that is pleasant to the sight andgood for food, " while her veins are rich with precious metals; the usefuland the beautiful offered with unsparing hand. 

We were obliged to leave Real about two o'clock, having a long journey toperform before night, as we had the intention of returning to sleep atTepenacasco. We took leave of our hospitable entertainers, and againresumed our journey over these fine roads, many parts of which are blastedfrom the great rocks of porphyry; and as we looked back at the picturesquecolony glistening in the sun, could hardly believe the prophecies of ourmore experienced drivers, that a storm was brewing in the sky, which wouldburst forth before evening. We were determined not to believe it, as it wasimpossible to pass by the famous hacienda and ravine of Regla withoutpaying them at least a short visit. 

This stupendous work of the Mexican miners in former days, is some leaguesto the south of Real del Monte, and is said to have cost many millions ofdollars. One should view it as we did, in a thunderstorm, for it has an airof vastness and desolation, and at the same time of grandeur, that showswell amidst a war of the elements. Down in a steep barranca, encircled bybasaltic cliffs, it lies; a mighty pile of building, which seems as if itmight have been constructed by some philosophical giant or necromancer;--sothat one is not prepared to find there an English director and his wife, and the unpoetic comforts of roast mutton and potatoes!

All is on a gigantic scale: the immense vaulted store-houses for the silverore; the great smelting-furnaces and covered buildings where we saw theprocess of amalgamation going on; the water-wheels; in short, all thenecessary machinery for the smelting and amalgamation of the metal. Wewalked to see the great cascade, with its row of basaltic columns, andfound a seat on a piece of broken pillar beside the rushing river, where wehad a fine view of the lofty cliffs, covered with the wildest and mostluxuriant vegetation: vines trailing themselves over every broken shaft;moss creeping over the huge disjointed masses of rock; and treesoverhanging the precipitous ravine. The columns look as if they might havebeen the work of those who, on the plains of Shinar, began to build thecity, and the tower whose top was to reach to heaven. 

But, as we sat here, the sky suddenly became overcast; great black massesof cloud collected over our heads, and the rumbling of thunder in thedistance gave notice of an approaching storm. We had scarcely time to getunder shelter of the director's roof, when the thunder began to echo loudlyamongst the rocks, and was speedily followed by torrents of rain. It was asuperb storm: the lightning flashed amongst the trees, the wind howledfuriously, while

 "Far along From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, Leapt the live thunder. "

After resting and dining amidst a running accompaniment of plashing rain, roaring wind, and deep-toned thunder, we found that it was in vain to waitfor a favourable change in the weather; and certainly, with lessexperienced drivers, it would have been anything but safe to have set offamidst the darkness of the storm, down precipitous descents and overtorrents swelled by the rain. The Count de Regla, who, attracted by theplentiful supply of water in this ravine, conceived the idea of employingpart of his enormous fortune in the construction of these colossal works, must have had an imagination on a large scale. The English directors, whosewives bury themselves in such abysses, ought to feel more grateful to themthan any other husbands towards their sacrificing better halves. For themen, occupied all day amongst their workmen and machinery, and returninglate in the evening to dine and sleep, there is no great self-immolation;but a poor woman, living all alone, in a house fenced in by gigantic rocks;with no other sound in her ears from morning till night but the roar ofthunder or the clang of machinery, had need for her personal comfort, tohave either a most romantic imagination, so that she may console herselfwith feeling like an enchanted princess in a giant's castle, or a mostcommonplace spirit, so that she may darn stockings to the sound of thewaterfall, and feel no other inconvenience from the storm, but that herhusband will require dry linen when he comes home. 

As for us, we were drenched before we reached the carriage, into which thewater was pouring, and when we set off once more amidst the rapidly-increasing darkness, and over these precipitous roads, we thought that ourchance of reaching the proposed haven that night was very small. After muchtoil to the horses, we got out of the ravines and found ourselves once moreon the great plains, where the tired animals ploughed their way over fieldsand ditches and great stones, and among trees and tangled bushes; anoccasional flash of lightning our only guide. Great was our joy, when, about eleven o'clock, a man riding on in advance shouted out that thelights of Tepenacasco were in sight; and still more complete oursatisfaction when we drove round the tank into the courtyard of thehacienda. We were received with great applause by the inmates, and were notsorry to rest after a very fatiguing yet agreeable day. 

MEXICO, 21st. 

We left Tepenacasco the day before yesterday. Our journey was verydangerous, in consequence of the great rains, which had swelled thetorrents; especially as we set off late, and most of it was performed bynight. In these barrancas, carriages and horsemen have been frequentlyswept away and dashed in pieces over the precipices. But to make oursituation more disagreeable, we had scarcely set off, before a terriblestorm of thunder and rain again came on with more violence than the nightpreceding. It grew perfectly dark, and we listened with some alarm to theroaring torrents, over which, especially over one, not many leagues fromSopayuca, where we were to spend the night, it was extremely doubtfulwhether we could pass. The carriage was full of water, but we were too muchalarmed to be uneasy about trifles. Amidst the howling of the wind and thepealing of thunder, no one could hear the other speak. Suddenly, by a vividflash of lightning, the dreaded barranca appeared in sight for a moment, and almost before the drivers could stop them, the horses had plunged in. 

It was a moment of mortal fear such as I shall never forget. The shrieks ofthe drivers to encourage the horses, the loud cries of Ave María! theuncertainty as to whether our heavy carriage could be dragged across, thehorses struggling and splashing in the boiling torrent, and the horriblefate that awaited us should one of them fall or falter!. . . The Señora----- and I shut our eyes and held each other's hands, and certainly no onebreathed till we were safe on the other side. We were then told that we hadcrossed within a few feet of a precipice over which a coach had been dashedinto fifty pieces during one of these swells, and of course every onekilled; and that if instead of horses we had travelled with mules, we musthave been lost. You may imagine that we were not sorry to reach Sopayuca;where the people ran out to the door at the sound of carriage-wheels, andcould not believe that we had passed the barranca that night; as two orthree horsemen who had rode in that direction had turned back, andpronounced it impassable. 

Lights and supper were soon procured, and by way of interlude a monstrousbull, of great fame in these parts, was led up to the supper-table for ourinspection with a rope through his nose, a fierce brute, but familiarlycalled "el chato" (the flatnose), from the shortness of his horns. Thelightning continued very vivid, and they told us that a woman had beenstruck there some time before, while in the chapel by night. 

We rose at four o'clock the next morning and set off for Mexico. Themorning, as usual after these storms, was peculiarly fresh and beautiful;but the sun soon grew oppressive on the great plains. About two o'clock weentered Mexico by the Guadalupe gate. We found our house _in statu quo_, --agreeable letters from Europe, --great preparations making for the Englishball, to assist at which we have returned sooner than we otherwise should, and for which my _femme-de-chambre_ has just completed a dress for me, very much to her own satisfaction. 

LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH

English Ball--Dresses--Diamonds--Mineria--Arrival of the Pope'sBull--Consecration of the Archbishop--Foreign Ministers--Splendour ofthe Cathedral--Description of the Ceremony. 

25th. 

The English ball at the Mineria has passed off with great _éclat_. Nothingcould be more splendid than the general effect of this noble building, brilliantly illuminated and filled with a well-dressed crowd. The presidentand corps diplomatique were in full uniform, and the display of diamondswas extraordinary. We ladies of the corps diplomatique tried to flatterourselves that we made up in elegance what we wanted in magnificence! forin jewels no foreign ladies could attempt to compete with those of thecountry. The daughter of Countess -----, just arrived from Paris, and whoseacquaintance I made for the first time, wore pale blue, with garlands ofpale pink roses, and a parure of most superb brilliants. The Señora deA----'s head reminded me of that of the Marchioness of Londonderry, inher opera-box. The Marquesa de Vivanco had a rivière of brilliants ofextraordinary size and beauty, and perfectly well set. Madame S---r wore avery rich blonde dress, _garnie_ with plumes of ostrich feathers, a largediamond fastening each plume. One lady wore a diadem which ----- said couldnot be worth less than a hundred thousand dollars. Diamonds are always wornplain or with pearls; coloured stones are considered trash, which is apity, as I think rubies and emeralds set in diamonds would give morevariety and splendour to their jewels. There were a profusion of largepearls, generally of a pear shape. The finest and roundest were those wornby the Señora B---a. There were many blonde dresses, a great fashion here. I know no lady without one. Amongst the prettiest and most tastefully-dressed girls were the E---s, as usual. Many dresses were overloaded, acommon fault in Mexico; and many of the dresses, though rich, were old-fashioned; but the _coup d'oeil_ was not the less brilliant, and it wassomewhat astonishing, in such a multitude, not to see a singleobjectionable person. To be sure the company were all invited. 

On entering the noble court, which was brilliantly illuminated withcoloured lamps, hung from pillar to pillar, and passing up the greatstaircase, we were met at the first landing by Mr. P----, in full uniform, and other English gentlemen, the directors of the ball, who stood there toreceive the ladies. His excellency led me upstairs to the top of theball-room, where chairs were placed for the president, ladies of the_diplomaties_, cabinet Ministers, etc. The music was excellent, and dancingwas already in full force. And though there were assembled what is called_all Mexico_, the rooms are so large, that the crowd was not disagreeable, nor the heat oppressive. Pictures of Queen Victoria were hung in thedifferent large halls. The supper-tables were very handsome; and in factthe ball altogether was worthy of its object; for Messieurs les Anglaisalways do these things well when they attempt them. 

The president took me to supper. The company walked in to the music of "Godsave the Queen. " After we had sat a little while the president demandedsilence, and, in a short speech, proposed the health of Her Majesty QueenVictoria, which was drank by all the company standing. After supper wecontinued dancing till nearly six in the morning; and when we got into thecarriage it was broad daylight, and all the bells were ringing for mass. 

This is the best ball we have seen here, without any exception; and it issaid to have cost eleven thousand dollars. There were certainly a greatnumber of pretty faces at this fête, many pretty girls whom we had not seenbefore, and whom the English secretaries have contrived to _unearth_. Fineeyes are a mere _drug_--every one has them; large, dark, full orbs, withlong silken lashes. As for diamonds, no man above the rank of a _lépero_marries in this country without presenting his bride with at least a pairof diamond earrings, or a pearl necklace with a diamond clasp. They are notalways a proof of wealth, though they constitute it in themselves. Theirowners may be very poor in other respects. They are considered a necessaryof life; quite as much so as shoes and stockings. 

June 2nd. --On the 15th of April, the pontifical bulls arrived from Rome, confirming the election of the Señor Posada to the Archiepiscopal dignity;and on Saturday last, the 31st of May, the consecration took place in thecathedral with the greatest pomp. The presiding bishop was the SeñorBelaunzaran, the old Bishop of Linares; the two assistant bishops were theSeñor Madrid, a young, good-looking man, who having been banished fromMexico during the revolution, took refuge in Rome, where he obtained thefavour of the Pope, who afterwards recommended him to an episcopal see inMexico; and the Doctor Morales, formerly Bishop of Sonora. His _padrino_was the President, General Bustamante, who in his capacity presented hisgodson with the splendid pastoral ring, a solitary diamond of immense size. All the diplomatic body and the cabinet went in full uniform; chairs beingplaced for them on each side of the _crugia_ (the passage leading to thealtar). A dispute upon the subject of precedence arose between anexcellency of the diplomatic corps, and the secretary of state, which seemslikely to have disagreeable consequences. I had the pleasure of kneelingbeside these illustrious persons for the space of three or four hours, forno seats were placed for the wives either of the diplomates or of thecabinet. 

But the ceremony, though long, was very superb, the music fine, thequantity of jewels on the dresses of the bishops and priests, and on theholy vessels, etc. , enormous. The bishops were arrayed in white velvet andgold, and their mitres were literally covered with diamonds. The goldcandlesticks and golden basins for holy water, and golden incensories, reminded me of the description of the ornaments of the Jewish tabernacle inthe days of Moses; of the "candlesticks of pure gold, with goldenbranches;" and "the tongs and snuff-dishes of pure gold:" or of the templeof Solomon, where the altar was of gold, and the table of gold, and thecandlesticks and the snuffers, and the basins, and the spoons, and thecensors were of pure gold. The pontifical vestments destined for theelected primate, were all prepared;--sandals, amice, surplice, girdle, pectoral cross, stole, gown, vestment, with open sleeves (the dalmatica), crosier, mitre, pontifical ring, etc. Magnificent chairs were prepared forthe bishops near the altar, and the president in uniform took his placeamongst them. The presiding bishop took his seat alone, with his back tothe altar, and the Señor Posada was led in by the assisting bishops, theywith their mitres, he with his priest's cap on. Arrived before thepresiding bishop, he uncovered his head, and made a profound obeisance. These three then took their places on chairs placed in front; and theceremony having begun, in case you should wish to have some idea of it, Ishall endeavour to give it you, for I was so situated, that although thecathedral was crowded to excess, I could see and hear all that passed. Letme premise, however, that there was not one _lépero_, as they are alwaysexcluded on such occasions. 

Posada and his assisting bishops rose, and uncovered their heads; and theBishop Morales turning to the presiding bishop, said, "Most reverendfather, the holy Catholic Mother Church requests you to raise thisPresbyter to the charge of the archbishopric. "

"Have you an apostolical mandate?"

"We have. "

"Read it. "

An assistant priest then read the mandate in a loud voice; upon which theyall sat down, and the consecrator saying, "Thanks be to God!" Then thePosada kneeling before him, took an oath, upon the Bible, which the bishopheld, concluding with these words--"So may God help me, and these his holygospels. " Then sitting down, and resuming their mitres, the examination ofthe future archbishop took place. It was very long, and at its conclusion, Posada knelt before the presiding bishop and kissed his hand. To thissucceeded the confession, every one standing uncovered before the altar, which was then sprinkled with incense. Then followed the mass, chanted. 

The assisting bishops then led out the Señor Posada to the chapel, wherethey put on his sandals, and where he assumed the pectoral cross, amice, surplice, etc. ; and arriving at the altar read the office of the mass. Hewas then conducted again before the consecrating bishop, who was seatedwith his mitre, and after saluting him reverently, he sat down. Then thebishop, addressing him said: "It is the duty of the bishop to judge, interpret, consecrate, ordain, offer, baptize, and confirm. "

All then rose, and the bishop prayed that the newly-elected primate mightreceive the grace of heaven. All the bishops and priests then prostratedthemselves while the Litanies were sung. The presiding bishop, rising tookthe crosier, and prayed three times for a blessing on the Chosen One;thrice making on him the sign of the cross; and they continued to sing theLitanies; at the conclusion of which they all arose, took their seats andresumed their mitres, Posada alone kneeling before the bishop. 

The Bible was then placed upon his shoulders, while he remained prostrated, and the bishop rising up, pronounced a solemn benediction upon him, whilethe hymn of "Veni Creator Spiritus, " was sung in full chorus. Then thebishop, dipping his hand in the holy chrism, anointed the primate's head, making on it the sign of the cross, saying, "Let thy head be anointed andconsecrated with the celestial benediction, according to the pontificalmandate. " The bishop then anointed his hands, making in the same manner thesign of the cross, and saying, "May these hands be anointed with holy oil;and as Samuel anointed David a king and a prophet, so be thou anointed andconsecrated. " This was followed by a solemn prayer. 

Then the crosier was blessed, and presented to the elected archbishop withthese words. "Receive the pastoral crosier, that thou mayest be humanelysevere in correcting vices, exercising judgment without wrath, " etc. Theblessing of the ring followed with solemn prayer, and being sprinkled withholy water, it was placed on the third finger of the right hand, the bishopsaying, "Receive the ring, which is a sign of faith; that, adorned withincorruptible faith, thou mayest guard inviolably the spouse of God, hisHoly Church. "

The Bible being then taken off the shoulders of the prostrate prelate, waspresented to him with an injunction to receive and to preach the gospel. Finally, the bishop bestowed on him the kiss of peace; and all the otherbishops did so in their turn. Posada then retired, and his head and handsbeing washed, he soon after returned with the assistant bishops, carryingtwo lighted wax tapers, which he presented to the presiding bishop, together with two loaves and two small barrels of wine, reverently kissinghis hand. After this, the presiding bishop washed his hands and mounted thesteps of the altar, and the new primate received the sacrament. 

The mitre was then blessed and placed upon his head, with a prayer by thebishop, that thus, with his head armed and with the staff of the gospels, he might appear terrible to the adversaries of the True Faith. The gloveswere next consecrated and drawn on his hands, the bishop praying that hishands might be surrounded by the purity of the new man; and that as Jacob, when he covered his hands with goat-skins, offered agreeable meats to hisfather, and received his paternal benediction, so he, in offering the HolySacrament, might obtain the benediction of his Heavenly Father. Thearchbishop was then seated by the consecrating bishop on his pontificalthrone, and at the same moment, the hymn "Te Deum Iaudamus" was chanted. During the hymn, the bishops, with their jewelled mitres, rose, and passingthrough the church, blessed the whole congregation, the new archbishopstill remaining near the altar, and without his mitre. When he returned tohis seat, the assistant bishops, including the consecrator, remainedstanding till the hymn was concluded. The presiding bishop then advancing, without his mitre, to the right hand of the archbishop, said, "May thy handbe strengthened! May thy right hand be exalted! May justice and judgment bethe preparation of thy see!" Then the organ pealed forth, and they chantedthe hymn of "Gloria Patri. " Long and solemn prayer followed; and then, alluncovered, stood beside the gospels, at the altar. 

The archbishop rose, and with mitre and crosier, pronounced a solemnblessing on all the people assembled. Then, while all knelt beside thealtar, he said--"For many years. " This he repeated thrice; the second time, in the middle of the altar, the third at the feet of the presiding bishop. Then all rising, the archbishop bestowed on each the kiss of peace, and theceremony concluded. 

When everything was over, our carriage not being visible amongst the crowdof vehicles, I returned home in that of the ----- Minister, with him andhis attaches; after which, they and C---n returned to dine with the newarchbishop in his palace. A dish of sweetmeats was sent me from his table, which are so pretty, (probably the chef-d'oeuvre of the nuns, ) that I sendthem to you, to preserve as a memorial of the consecration of the firstMexican archbishop--perhaps of the last!

LETTER THE NINETEENTH

Mexican Servants--Anecdotes--Remedies--An unsafe Porter--Galopinas--TheReboso--The Sarape--Women Cooks--Foreign Servants--Characteristics ofMexican Servants--Servants' Wages--Nun of the Santa Teresa--Motives fortaking the Veil. 

June 3rd. 

You ask me to tell you how I find the Mexican servants. Hitherto I hadavoided the ungrateful theme, from very weariness of it. The badness of theservants, is an unfailing source of complaint even amongst Mexicans; muchmore so amongst foreigners, especially on their first arrival. We hear oftheir addiction to stealing, their laziness, drunkenness, dirtiness, with ahost of other vices. That these complaints are frequently just, there canbe no doubt, but the evil might be remedied to a great extent. In the firstplace servants are constantly taken without being required to bring arecommendation from their last place; and in the next, recommendations areconstantly given, whether from indolence or mistaken kindness, to servantswho do not deserve them. A servant who has lived in a dozen differenthouses, staying about a month in each, is not thought the worse of on thataccount. As the love of finery is inherent in them all, even more so thanin other daughters of Eve, a girl will go to service merely to earnsufficient to buy herself an embroidered chemise; and if, in addition tothis, she can pick up a pair of small old satin shoes, she will tell youshe is tired of working, and going home to rest, "_para descansar_. " Solittle is necessary, when one can contentedly live on tortillas and chile, sleep on a mat, and dress in rags!

A decent old woman, who came to the house to wash shortly after our arrivalin this country, and left us at the end of the month, "_para descansar_. "Soon after, she used to come with her six children, they and herself all inrags, and beg the gardener to give her any _odds and ends_ of vegetables hecould spare. My maid asked her, why, being so poor, she had left a goodplace, where she got twelve dollars a month. "Jesús!" said she, "if youonly knew the pleasure of doing nothing. "

I wished to bring up a little girl as a servant, having her taught to read, sew, etc. A child of twelve years old, one of a large family, who subsistedupon charity, was procured for me; and I promised her mother that sheshould be taught to read, taken regularly to church, and instructed in allkinds of work. She was rather pretty, and very intelligent, thoughextremely indolent; and though she had no stockings, would consent to wearnothing but dirty white satin shoes, too short for her foot. Once a week, her mother, a tall, slatternly woman, with long tangled hair, and a cigarin her mouth, used to come to visit her, accompanied by a friend, afriend's friend, and a train of girls, her daughters. The housekeeper wouldgive them some dinner, after which they would all light their cigars, and, together with the little Joséfita, sit, and howl, and bemoan themselves, crying and lamenting her sad fate in being obliged to go out to service. After these visits, Joséfita was fit for nothing. If desired to sew, shewould sit looking so miserable, and doing so little, that it seemed betterto allow her to leave her work alone. Then, tolerably contented, she wouldsit on a mat, doing nothing, her hands folded, and her eyes fixed onvacancy. 

According to promise, I took her several times to see her mother, but oneday being occupied, I sent her alone in the carriage, with charge to theservants to bring her safely back. In the evening she returned, accompaniedby the whole family, all crying and howling; "For the love of the Most HolyVirgin, Señora mia! Por la purissima Concepción!" etc. , etc. , etc. I askedwhat had happened, and after much difficulty discovered that their horrorwas occasioned by my having sent her alone in the carriage. It happenedthat the Countess S---- was in the drawing room, and to her I related thecause of the uproar. To my astonishment, she assured me that the woman wasin this instance right, and that it was very dangerous to send a girl oftwelve years of age from one street to another, in the power of thecoachman and footman. Finding from such good authority that this was thecase, I begged the woman to be contented with seeing her daughter once amonth, when, if she could not come herself, I would send her under properprotection. She agreed; but one day having given Joséfita permission tospend the night at her mother's, I received next morning a very dirtynote, nearly illegible, which, after calling down the protection of theVirgin upon me, concluded-"but with much sorrow I must take my child fromthe most illustrious protection of your excellency, for she needs to resther-self, (es preciso que descanse, ) and is tired for the present ofworking. " The woman then returned to beg, which she considered infinitelyless degrading. 

Against this nearly universal indolence and indifference to earning money, the heads of families have to contend; as also against thieving anddirtiness; yet I think the remedy much easier than it appears. If on theone hand, no one were to receive a servant into their house, withoutrespectable references, especially from their last place, and if theirhaving remained one year in the same house were considered necessary totheir being received into another, unless from some peculiar circumstances;and if on the other hand it were considered as unjust and dangerous, as itreally is, to recommend a servant who has been guilty of stealing, as being"_muy honrado_, " very honest, some improvement might soon take place. 

A porter was recommended to us as "muy honrado;" not from his last place, but from one before. He was a well-dressed, sad-looking individual; and atthe same time we took his wife as washerwoman, and his brother as valet toour attache, thus having the whole family under our roof, wisely taking itfor granted that he being recommended as particularly honest, his relationswere "all honourable men. " An English lady happened to call on me, and ashort time after I went to return her visit; when she informed me that theperson who had opened the door for her was a notorious thief; whom thepolice had long been in search of; that she had feared sending a servant towarn us of our danger, lest guessing the purport of her message, he mightrob the house before leaving it. We said nothing to the man that evening, but he looked paler and more miserable than usual, probably foreseeing whatwould be the result of Mrs. -----'s visit. The next morning C---n sent forhim and dismissed him, giving him a month's wages, that he might not betempted to steal from immediate want. His face grew perfectly livid, but hemade no remark. In half an hour he returned and begged to speak with C---n. He confessed that the crime of which he concluded he was accused, he had infact committed; that he had been tempted to a gambling house, while he hadin his pocket a large sum of money belonging to his master. After losinghis own money, he tried his fortune with what was not his own; lost thewhole sum, then pawned a valuable shawl worth several hundred dollars, withwhich also he had been entrusted; and having lost everything, in despairmade his escape from Mexico. He remained in concealment for some time, tillhearing that we wanted a porter, he ventured to present himself to thehousekeeper with his former certificate. He declared himself thoroughlyrepentant--that this was his first, and would be his last crime--but whocan trust the good resolutions of a gambler! We were obliged to send himaway, especially as the other servants already had some suspicionsconcerning him; and everything stolen in the house would in future havebeen attributed to him. The gentleman who had recommended him, afterwardsconfessed that he always had strong suspicions of this man's honesty, andknew him to be so determined a gambler, that he had pawned all hepossessed, even his wife's clothes, to obtain money for that purpose. Nowas a porter in Mexico has pretty much at his disposal the property and eventhe lives of the whole family, it is certainly most blameable to recommendto that situation a man whose honesty is more than doubtful. We afterwardsprocured two soldiers from the _Invalidos_, old Spaniards, to act in thatcapacity, who had no other foiblesse but that of being constantly drunk. Weat length found two others, who only got tipsy alternately, so that weconsidered ourselves very well off. 

We had a long series of _galopinas_, kitchen-maids, and the only one whobrought a first-rate character with her, robbed the housekeeper. The money, however, was recovered, and was found to have been placed by the girl inthe hands of a rich and apparently respectable coachmaker. He refunded itto the rightful owner, and the galopina was punished by a month'simprisonment, which he should have shared with her. One of the mostdisagreeable customs of the women servants, is that of wearing their longhair hanging down at its full length, matted, uncombed, and always in theway. I cannot imagine how the Mexican ladies, who complain of this, permitit. Flowing hair sounds very picturesque, but when it is very dirty, andsuspended over the soup, it is not a pretty picture. 

The reboso, in itself graceful and convenient, has the disadvantage ofbeing the greatest cloak for all untidiness, uncombed hair and raggedness, that ever was invented. Even in the better classes, it occasions muchindolence in the toilet, but in the common people, its effect isoverwhelming. When the reboso drops off, or is displaced by chance, we seewhat they would be without it! As for the sarape, it is both convenient andgraceful, especially on horseback; but though Indian in its origin, thecustom of covering the lower part of the face with it, is taken from theSpanish cloak; and the opportunity which both sarape and reboso afford forconcealing large knives about the person, as also for enveloping both faceand figure so as to be scarcely recognizable, is no doubt the cause of themany murders which take place amongst the lower orders, in moments ofexcitement and drunkenness. If they had not these knives at hand, theirrage would probably cool, or a fair fight would finish the matter, and ifthey could not wear these knives concealed, I presume they would beprohibited from carrying them. 

As for taking a woman-cook in Mexico, one must have strong nerves and agood appetite to eat what she dresses, however palatable, after having seenher. One look at her flowing locks, one glance at her reboso, _et c'estfini_. And yet the Mexican servants have their good qualities, and are athousand times preferable to the foreign servants one finds in Mexico;especially the French. Bringing them with you is a dangerous experiment. Inten days they begin to fancy themselves ladies and gentlemen--the men have_Don_ tacked to their name; and they either marry and set up shops, orbecome unbearably insolent. A tolerable French cook may occasionally behad, but you must pay his services their weight in gold, and wink at hisextortions and robberies. There are one or two French _restaurans_, whowill send you in a very good dinner at an extravagant price: and it iscommon in foreign houses, especially amongst the English, to adopt thisplan whenever they give a large entertainment. 

The Mexican servants have some never-failing good qualities. They are theperfection of civility-humble, obliging, excessively good-tempered, andvery easily attached to those with whom they live; and if that _rara avis_, a good Mexican housekeeper, can be found, and that such may be met with Ifrom experience can testify, then the troubles of the menage rest upon hershoulders, and accustomed as she is to the amiable weaknesses of her_compatriotes_, she is neither surprised nor disturbed by them. 

As for wages, a good porter has from fifteen to twenty dollars per month; acoachman from twenty to thirty--many houses keep two or even threecoachmen; one who drives from the box, one who rides postilion, and a thirdfor emergencies. Our friend---, who has many horses, mules, and carriages, has four; and pays forty dollars per month to his head coachman; the othersin proportion. A French cook has about thirty dollars--a housekeeper fromtwelve to fifteen; a major-domo about twenty or more; a footman six orseven; galopine and chambermaid five or six; a gardener from twelve tofifteen. Sewing-girls have about three reals per diem. Porter, coachmen, and gardener, have their wives and families in the house, which would be anannoyance, were the houses not so large. The men-servants generally aremuch cleaner and better dressed than the women. 

One circumstance is remarkable; that, dirty as the women-servants are, andnotwithstanding the enormous size of Mexican houses, and Mexican families, the houses themselves are, generally speaking, the perfection ofcleanliness. This must be due either to a good housekeeper, which is rarelyto be found, or to the care taken by the mistress of the house herself. That private houses should have this advantage over churches and theatres, only proves that ladies know how to manage these matters better thangentlemen, so that one is inclined to wish _a la Martineau_, that theMexican police were entirely composed of old women. 

12th. --I have formed an acquaintance with a very amiable and agreeable nunin the convent of Santa Teresa, one of the strictest orders. I have onlyseen her twice, through a grating. She is a handsome woman of good family, and it is said of a remarkably joyous disposition; fond of music anddancing, and gay society, yet at the age of eighteen, contrary to thewishes of all her family, she took the veil, and declares she has neverrepented of it. Although I cannot see her, I can hear her voice, and talkto her through a turning wooden screen, which has a very mysterious effect. She gives me an account of her occupations and of the little events thattake place in her small world within; whilst I bring her news from theworld without. The common people have the greatest veneration for the holysisterhood, and I generally find there a number of women with baskets, andmen carrying parcels or letters; some asking their advice or assistance, others executing their commissions, bringing them vegetables or bread, andlistening to the sound of their voice with the most eager attention. Myfriend, the Madre---, has promised to dress a number of wax figures for me, in the exact costume of all the different nuns in Mexico, beginning withthat of her own convent. 

I have now seen three nuns take the veil; and, next to a death, consider itthe saddest event that can occur in this nether sphere; yet the frequencyof these human sacrifices here is not so strange as might at first appear. A young girl, who knows nothing of the world, who, as it too frequentlyhappens, has at home neither amusement nor instruction, and no societyabroad, who from childhood is under the dominion of her confessor, and whofirmly believes that by entering a convent she becomes sure of heaven; whomoreover finds there a number of companions of her own age, and of olderwomen who load her with praises and caresses--it is not, after all, astonishing that she should consent to insure her salvation on such easyterms. 

Add to this the splendour of the ceremony, of which she is the sole object;the cynosure of all approving eyes. A girl of sixteen finds it hard toresist all this. I am told that more girls are smitten by the ceremony, than by anything else, and am inclined to believe it, from the remarks Ihave heard made on these occasions by young girls in my vicinity. What doesshe lose? A husband and children? Probably she has seen no one who hastouched her heart. Most probably she has hitherto seen no men, or at leastconversed with none but her brothers, her uncles, or her confessor. She hasperhaps also felt the troubles of a Mexican menage. The society of men! Shewill still see her confessor, and she will have occasional visits fromreverend padres and right reverend bishops. 

Some of these convents are not entirely free from scandal. Amongst themonks, there are many who are openly a disgrace to their calling, though Ifirmly believe that by far the greater number lead a life of privation andvirtue. Their conduct can, to a certain extent, be judged of by the world;but the pale nuns, devout and pure, immured in the cloister for life, kneeling before the shrine, or chanting hymns in the silence of the night, a veil both truly and allegorically must shade their virtues or theirfailings. The nuns of the Santa Teresa and of other strict orders, who livesparingly, profess the most severe rules, and have no servants or boarders, enjoy a universal reputation for virtue and sanctity. They consider theother convents worldly, and their motto is, "All or nothing; the world orthe cloister. " Each abbess adds a stricter rule, a severer penance than herpredecessor, and in this they glory. My friend the Madre---frequently says--"Were I to be born again, I should choose, above every lot in life, to bea nun of the Santa Teresa, but of no other convent. ". . . 

It is strange how, all the world over, mankind seems to expect from thosewho assume religion as a profession a degree of superhuman perfection. Their failings are insisted upon. Every eye is upon them to mark whatsoevermay be amiss in their conduct. Their virtues, their learning, their holylives--nothing will avail them, if one blot can be discovered in theircharacter. There must be no moral blemish in the priesthood. In theCatholic religion, where more is professed, still more is demanded, and theerrors of one padre or one ecclesiastic seem to throw a shade over thewhole community to which they belong. 

LETTER THE TWENTIETH

The Convent Entry--Díalogue--A Chair in Church--Arrival of theNun--Dress--José María--Crowd--Withdrawal of the Black Curtain--The Takingof the Veil--The Sermon--A Dead Body--Another Victim--Convent of theEncarnación--Attempt at a Hymn--Invitation--Morning Visit--The Nun and herMother--Banquet--Taking Leave--Ceremony of the Veil-taking--A BeautifulVictim--The Last Look--Presentation to the Bishop--Reflections--Verses. 

4th June. 

Some days ago, having received a message from _my nun_ that a girl wasabout to take the veil in her convent, I went there about six o'clock, andknowing that the church on these occasions is apt to be crowded tosuffocation, I proceeded to the _reja_, and speaking to an invisiblewithin, requested to know in what part of the church I could have a place. Upon which a voice replied--

"Hermanita (my sister), I am rejoiced to see you. You shall have a placebeside the godmother. "

"Many thanks, Hermanita. Which way shall I go?"

_Voice_. --"You shall go through the sacristy. José María!"

José María, a thin, pale, lank individual, with hollow cheeks, who wasstanding near like a page in waiting, sprang forward--"_Madrecita_, I amhere!"

_Voice_. --"José María--That lady is the Señora de C---n. You will conducther excellency to the front of the grating, and give her a chair. "

After I had thanked the _voice_ for her kindness in attending to me on aday when she was so much occupied with other affairs, the obsequious JoséMaría led the way, and I followed him through the sacristy into the church, where there were already a few kneeling figures; and thence into therailed-off enclosure destined for the relatives of the future nun, where Iwas permitted to sit down in a comfortable velvet chair. I had been therebut a little while when the aforesaid José María reappeared, picking hissteps as if he were walking upon eggs in a sick-room. He brought me amessage from the Madre---that the nun had arrived, and that the madrecitawished to know if I should like to give her an embrace before the ceremonybegan. I therefore followed my guide back into the sacristy, where thefuture nun was seated beside her god-mother, and in the midst of herfriends and relations, about thirty in all. 

She was arrayed in pale blue satin, with diamonds, pearls, and a crown offlowers. She was literally smothered in blonde and jewels; and her face wasflushed as well it might be, for she had passed the day in taking leave ofher friends at a fête they had given her, and had then, according tocustom, been paraded through the town in all her finery. And now her lasthour was at hand. When I came in she rose and embraced me with as muchcordiality as if we had known each other for years. Beside her sat theMadrina, also in white satin and jewels; all the relations being likewisedecked out in their finest array. The nun kept laughing every now and thenin the most unnatural and hysterical manner, as I thought, apparently toimpress us with the conviction of her perfect happiness; for it is a greatpoint of honour amongst girls similarly situated to look as cheerful andgay as possible; the same feeling, though in a different degree, whichinduces the gallant highwayman to jest in the presence of the multitudewhen the hangman's cord is within an inch of his neck, the same which makesthe gallant general whose life is forfeited, command his men to fire onhim; the same which makes the Hindoo widow mount the funeral pile without atear in her eye, or a sigh on her lips. If the robber were to be strangledin a corner of his dungeon; if the general were to be put to deathprivately in his own apartment; if the widow were to be burnt quietly onher own hearth; if the nun were to be secretly smuggled in at the conventgate like a bale of contraband goods, --we might hear another tale. Thisgirl was very young, but by no means pretty; on the contrary, rather_disgraciee par la nature_; and perhaps a knowledge of her own want ofattraction may have caused the world to have few charms for her. 

But José María cut short my train of reflections, by requesting me toreturn to my seat before the crowd arrived, which I did forthwith. Shortlyafter, the church doors were thrown open, and a crowd burst in, every onestruggling to obtain the best seat. Musicians entered, carrying desks andmusic-books, and placed themselves in two rows, on either side of theenclosure where I was. Then the organ struck up its solemn psalmody, andwas followed by the gay music of the band. Rockets were let off outside thechurch, and, at the same time, the Madrina and all the relations enteredand knelt down in front of the grating which looks into the convent, butbefore which hung a dismal black curtain. I left my chair and knelt downbeside the godmother. 

Suddenly the curtain was withdrawn, and the picturesque beauty of the scenewithin baffles all description. Beside the altar, which was in a blaze oflight, was a perfect mass of crimson and gold drapery; the walls, theantique chairs, the table before which the priests sat, all hung with thesame splendid material. The bishop wore his superb mitre and robes ofcrimson and gold; the attendant priests also glittering in crimson and goldembroidery. 

In contrast to these, five-and-twenty figures, entirely robed in black fromhead to foot, were ranged on each side of the room prostrate, their facestouching the ground, and in their hands immense lighted tapers. On theforeground was spread a purple carpet bordered round with a garland offreshly-gathered flowers, roses and carnations and heliotrope, the onlything that looked real and living in the whole scene; and in the middle ofthis knelt the novice, still arrayed in her blue satin, white lace veil andjewels, and also with a great lighted taper in her hand. 

The black nuns then rose and sang a hymn, every now and then falling ontheir faces and touching the floor with their foreheads. The whole lookedlike an incantation, or a scene in Robert le Díable. The novice was thenraised from the ground and led to the feet of the bishop, who examined heras to her vocation, and gave her his blessing, and once more the blackcurtain fell between us and them. 

In the _second act_, she was lying prostrate on the floor, disrobed of herprofane dress, and covered over with a black cloth, while the black figureskneeling round her chanted a hymn. She was now dead to the world. Thesunbeams had faded away, as if they would not look upon the scene, and allthe light was concentrated in one great mass upon the convent group. 

Again she was raised. All the blood had rushed into her face, and herattempt at a smile was truly painful. She then knelt before the bishop andreceived the benediction, with the sign of the cross, from a white handwith the pastoral ring. She then went round alone to embrace all the darkphantoms as they stood motionless, and as each dark shadow clasped her inits arms, it seemed like the dead welcoming a new arrival to the shades. 

But I forget the sermon, which was delivered by a fat priest, who elbowedhis way with some difficulty through the crowd to the grating, panting andin a prodigious heat, and ensconced himself in a great arm-chair closebeside us. He assured her that she "had chosen the good part, which couldnot be taken away from her;" that she was now one of the elect, "chosenfrom amongst the wickedness and dangers of the world;"--(picked out like aplum from a pie). He mentioned with pity and contempt those who were "yetstruggling in the great Babylon;" and compared their miserable fate withhers, the Bride of Christ, who, after suffering a few privations hereduring a short term of years, should be received at once into a kingdom ofglory. The whole discourse was well calculated to rally her faintingspirits, if fainting they were, and to inspire us with a great disgust forourselves. 

When the sermon was concluded, the music again struck up--the heroine ofthe day came forward, and stood before the grating to take her last look ofthis wicked world. Down fell the black curtain. Up rose the relations, andI accompanied them into the sacristy. Here they coolly lighted theircigars, and very philosophically discoursed upon the exceeding good fortuneof the new-made nun, and on her evident delight and satisfaction with herown situation. As we did not follow her behind the scenes, I could not givemy opinion on this point. Shortly after, one of the gentlemen civilly ledme to my carriage, and _so it was_. 

As we were returning home, some soldiers rode up and stopped the carriage, desiring the coachman to take to the other side of the aqueduct, to avoidthe body of a man who had just been murdered within a few doors of ourhouse. 

In the Convent of the Incarnation, I saw another girl sacrificed in asimilar manner. She was received there without a dowry, on account of theexceeding fineness of her voice. She little thought what a fatal gift itwould prove to her. The most cruel part of all was, that wishing to displayher fine voice to the public, they made her sing a hymn alone, on herknees, her arms extended in the form of a cross, before all the immensecrowd; "Ancilla Christi sum, " "The Bird of Christ I am. " She was a good-looking girl, fat and comely, who would probably have led a comfortablelife in the world, for which she seemed well fitted; most likely withoutone touch of romance or enthusiasm in her composition; but having theunfortunate honour of being niece to two chanoines, she was thus honourablyprovided for without expense in her nineteenth year. As might be expected, her voice faltered, and instead of singing, she seemed inclined to cry out. Each note came slowly, heavily, trembingly; and at last she nearly fellforward exhausted, when two of the sisters caught and supported her. 

I had almost made up my mind to see no more such scenes, which, unlikepulque and bull-fights, I dislike more and more upon trial; when wereceived an invitation, which it was not easy to refuse, but was the morepainful to accept, being acquainted, though slightly, with the victim. Isend you the printed note of invitation. 

"On Wednesday, the----of this month, at six o'clock in the evening, mydaughter, Doña María de la Conception, P---e---, will assume the habit of anun of the choir and the black veil in the Convent of Our Lady of theIncarnation. I have the honour to inform you of this, entreating you toco-operate with your presence in the solemnity of this act, a favour whichwill be highly esteemed by your affectionate servant, who kisses your hand. 

"MARÍA JOSÉFA DE -----. 

"Mexico, June---, 1840. "

Having gone out in the carriage to pay some visits, I suddenly recollectedthat it was the very morning of the day in which this young girl was totake the veil, and also that it was necessary to inquire where I was to beplaced; for as to entering the church with the crowd on one of theseoccasions, it is out of the question; particularly when the girl being, asin the present case, of distinguished family, the ceremony is expected tobe peculiarly magnificent. I accordingly called at the house, was shownupstairs, and to my horror, found myself in the midst of a "goodliecompanie, " in rich array, consisting of the relations of the family, to thenumber of about a hundred persons; the bishop himself in his purple robesand amethysts, a number of priests, the father of the young lady in hisgeneral's uniform; she herself in purple velvet, with diamonds and pearls, and a crown of flowers; the _corsage_ of her gown entirely covered withlittle bows of ribbon of divers colours, which her friends had given her, each adding one, like stones thrown on a cairn in memory of the departed. She had also short sleeves and white satin shoes. 

Being very handsome, with fine black eyes, good teeth, and fresh colour, and above all with the beauty of youth, for she is but eighteen, she wasnot disfigured even by this overloaded dress. Her mother, on the contrary, who was to act the part of Madrina, who wore a dress fac-simile, and whowas pale and sad, her eyes almost extinguished with weeping, looked like apicture of misery in a balldress. In the adjoining room, long tables werelaid out, on which servants were placing refreshments for the fête about tobe given on this joyous occasion. I felt somewhat shocked, and inclined tosay with Paul Pry, "Hope I don't intrude. " But my apologies were instantlycut short, and I was welcomed with true Mexican hospitality; repeatedlythanked for my kindness in coming to see the nun, and hospitably pressed tojoin the family feast. I only got off upon a promise of returning athalf-past five to accompany them to the ceremony, which, in fact, I greatlypreferred to going there alone. 

I arrived at the hour appointed, and being led upstairs by the Senator Don-----, found the morning party, with many additions, lingering over thedessert. There was some gaiety, but evidently forced. It reminded me of amarriage feast previous to the departure of the bride, who is about to beseparated from her family for the first time. Yet how different in fact isthis banquet, where the mother and daughter met together for the last timeon earth!

At stated periods, indeed, the mother may hear her daughter's voicespeaking to her as from the depths of the tomb; but she may never more foldher in her arms, never more share in her joys or in her sorrows, or nurseher in sickness; and when her own last hour arrives, though but a fewstreets divide them, she may not give her dying blessing to the child whohas been for so many years the pride of her eyes and heart. 

I have seen no country where families are so knit together as in Mexico, where the affections are so concentrated, or where such devoted respect andobedience are shown by the married sons and daughters to their parents. Inthat respect they always remain as little children. I know many families ofwhich the married branches continue to live in their father's house, forming a sort of small colony, and living in the most perfect harmony. They cannot bear the idea of being separated, and nothing but direnecessity ever forces them to leave their _fatherland_. To all the accountswhich travellers give them of the pleasures to be met with in the Europeancapitals, they turn a deaf ear. Their families are in Mexico--theirparents, and sisters, and relatives--and there is no happiness for themelsewhere. The greater therefore is the sacrifice which those parents make, who from religious motives devote their daughters to a conventual life. 

-----, however, was furious at the whole affair, which he said was entirelyagainst the mother's consent, though that of the father had been obtained;and pointed out to me the confessor whose influence had brought it about. The girl herself was now very pale, but evidently resolved to conceal heragitation, and the mother seemed as if she could shed no more tears--quiteexhausted with weeping. As the hour for the ceremony drew near, the wholeparty became more grave and sad, all but the priests, who were smiling andtalking together in groups. The girl was not still a moment. She keptwalking hastily through the house, taking leave of the servants, and namingprobably her last wishes about everything. She was followed by her youngersisters, all in tears. 

But it struck six, and the priests intimated that it was time to move. Sheand her mother went downstairs alone, and entered the carriage which was todrive them through all the principal streets, to show the nun to the publicaccording to custom, and to let them take their last look, they of her, andshe of them. As they got in, we all crowded to the balconies to see hertake leave of her house, her aunts saying, "Yes, child, _despídete de tucasa_, take leave of your house, for you will never see it again!" Thencame sobs from the sisters, and many of the gentlemen, ashamed of theiremotion, hastily quitted the room. I hope, for the sake of humanity, I didnot rightly interpret the look of constrained anguish which the poor girlthrew from the window of the carriage at the home of her childhood. 

They drove off, and the relations prepared to walk in procession to thechurch. I walked with the Count S---o, the others followed in pairs. Thechurch was very brilliantly illuminated, and as we entered, the band wasplaying one of _Strauss's_ waltzes! The crowd was so tremendous that wewere nearly squeezed to a jelly in getting to our places. I was carried offmy feet between two fat Señoras in mantillas and shaking diamond pendants, exactly as if I had been packed between two moveable feather-beds. 

They gave me, however, an excellent place, quite close to the grating, beside the Countess de S---o, that is to say, a place to kneel on. A greatbustle and much preparation seemed to be going on within the convent, andveiled figures were flitting about, whispering, arranging, etc. Sometimes askinny old dame would come close to the grating, and lifting up her veil, bestow upon the pensive public a generous view of a very haughty and verywrinkled visage of some seventy years standing, and beckon into the churchfor the major-domo of the convent (an excellent and profitable situation bythe way), or for padre this or that. Some of the holy ladies recognised andspoke to me through the grating. 

But at the discharge of fireworks outside the church the curtain wasdropped, for this was the signal that the nun and her mother had arrived. An opening was made in the crowd as they passed into the church, and thegirl, kneeling down, was questioned by the bishop, but I could not make outthe dialogue, which was carried on in a low voice. She then passed into theconvent by a side door, and her mother, quite exhausted and nearly inhysterics, was supported through the crowd to a place beside us, in frontof the grating. The music struck up; the curtain was again drawn aside. Thescene was as striking here as in the convent of the Santa Teresa, but notso lugubrious. The nuns, all ranged around, and carrying lighted tapers intheir hands, were dressed in mantles of bright blue, with a gold plate onthe left shoulder. Their faces, however, were covered with deep blackveils. The girl, kneeling in front, and also bearing a heavy lighted taper, looked beautiful, with her dark hair and rich dress, and the long blacklashes resting on her glowing face. The churchmen near the illuminated andmagnificently-decked altar formed, as usual, a brilliant background to thepicture. The ceremony was the same as on the former occasion, but there wasno sermon. 

The most terrible thing to witness was the last, straining, anxious lookwhich the mother gave her daughter through the grating. She had seen herchild pressed to the arms of strangers, and welcomed to her new home. Shewas no longer hers. All the sweet ties of nature had been rudely severed, and she had been forced to consign her, in the very bloom of youth andbeauty, at the very age in which she most required a mother's care, andwhen she had but just fulfilled the promise of her childhood, to a livingtomb. Still, as long as the curtain had not fallen, she could gaze uponher, as upon one on whom, though dead, the coffin-lid is not yet closed. 

But while the new-made nun was in a blaze of light, and distinct on theforeground, so that we could mark each varying expression of her face, thecrowd in the church, and the comparative faintness of the light, probablymade it difficult for her to distinguish her mother; for, knowing that theend was at hand, she looked anxiously and hurriedly into the church, without seeming able to fix her eyes on any particular object; while hermother seemed as if her eyes were glazed, so intently were they fixed uponher daughter. 

Suddenly, and without any preparation, down fell the black curtain like apall, and the sobs and tears of the family broke forth. One beautifullittle child was carried out almost in fits. Water was brought to the poormother; and at last, making our way with difficulty through the densecrowd, we got into the sacristy. "I declare, " said the Countess ----- tome, wiping her eyes, "it is worse than a marriage!" I expressed my horrorat the sacrifice of a girl so young, that she could not possibly have knownher own mind. Almost all the ladies agreed with me, especially all who haddaughters, but many of the old gentlemen were of a different opinion. Theyoung men were decidedly of my way of thinking; but many young girls, whowere conversing together, seemed rather to envy their friend, who hadlooked so pretty and graceful, and "so happy, " and whose dress "suited herso well, " and to have no objection to "go, and do likewise. "

I had the honour of a presentation to the bishop, a fat and portly prelate, with good manners, and well besuiting his priestly garments. I amusedmyself, while we waited for the carriages, by looking over a pamphlet whichlay on the table, containing the ceremonial of the veil-taking. When werose to go, all the ladies of the highest rank devoutly kissed the bishop'shand; and I went home, thinking by what law of God a child can thus bedragged from the mother who bore and bred her, and immured in a cloisterfor life, amongst strangers, to whom she has no tie, and towards whom sheowes no duty. That a convent may be a blessed shelter from the calamitiesof life, a haven for the unprotected, a resting-place for the weary, a safeand holy asylum, where a new family and kind friends await those whosenatural ties are broken and whose early friends are gone, I am willing toadmit; but it is not in the flower of youth that the warm heart should beconsigned to the cold cloister. Let the young take their chance of sunshineor of storm: the calm and shady retreat is for helpless and unprotected oldage. 

-----, to whom I described one of these ceremonies, wrote some verses, suggested by my account of them, which I send you. 

 In tropic gorgeousness, the Lord of Day To the bright chambers of the west retired, And with the glory of his parting ray The hundred domes of Mexico he fired, When I, with vague and solemn awe inspired, Entered the Incarnation's sacred fane. The vaulted roof, the dim aisle far retired, Echoed the deep-toned organ's holy strain, Which through the incensed air did mournfully complain. 

 The veiling curtain suddenly withdrew, Op'ning a glorious altar to the sight, Where crimson intermixed its regal hue With gold and jewels that outblazed the light Of the huge tapers near them flaming bright From golden stands--the bishop, mitre-crowned, Stood stately near--in order due around The sisterhood knelt down, their brows upon the ground. 

 The novice entered: to her doom she went, Gems on her robes, and flowers upon her brow. Virgin of tender years, poor innocent! Pause, ere thou speak th' irrevocable vow. What if thy heart should change, thy spirit fail? She kneels. The black-robed sisters cease to bow. They raise a hymn which seems a funeral wail, While o'er the pageant falls the dark, lugubrious veil. 

 Again the veil is up. On earth she lies, With the drear mantle of the pall spread o'er. The new-made nun, the living sacrifice, Dead to this world of ours for evermore! The sun his parting rays has ceased to pour, As loth to lend his light to such a scene. . . . The sisters raise her from the sacred floor, Supporting her their holy arms between; The mitred priest stands up with patriarchal mien. 

 And speaks the benediction; all is done. A life-in-death must her long years consume She clasped her new-made sisters one by one. As the black shadows their embraces gave They seemed like spectres from their place of doom. Stealing from out eternal night's blind cave, To meet their comrade new, and hail her to the grave. 

 The curtain fell again, the scene was o'er, The pageant gone--its glitter and its pride, And it would be a pageant and no more, But for the maid miscalled the Heavenly Bride. If I, an utter stranger, unallied To her by slightest ties, some grief sustain, What feels the yearning mother, from whose side Is torn the child whom she hath reared in vain, To share her joys no more, no more to sooth her pain!

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST

San Agustin--The Gambling Fête--The Beauties of the Village--The Road fromMexico--Entry to San Agustin--The Gambling Houses--San Antonio--ThePedregal--Last Day of the Fête--The Cock-pit--The Boxes--The Cock-fight--Decorum--Comparisons--Dinner--Ball at Calvario--House of General Moran--View of the Gambling-tables--The Advocate--Ball at the Plaza de Gallos--Return to Mexico--Reflections--Conversation between two Ministers. 

15th June. 

Since my last letter we have been at San Agustin de las Cuevas, which, whenI last saw it, was a deserted village, but which during three days in theyear presents the appearance of a vast bee-hive or ant-hill. San Agustin!At the name how many hearts throb with emotion! How many hands aremechanically thrust into empty pockets! How many visions of long-vanishedgolden ounces flit before aching eyes! What faint crowing of wounded cocks!What tinkling of guitars and blowing of horns come upon the ear! Some, indeed, there be, who can look round upon their well-stored hacienda andeasy-rolling carriages, and remember the day, when with threadbare coat, and stake of three modest ounces, they first courted Fortune's favours, andwho, being then indigent, and enjoying an indifferent reputation, foundthemselves, at the conclusion of a few successive San Agustins, thefortunate proprietors of gold, and land, and houses; and, moreover, with anunimpeachable fame; for he who can fling gold-dust in his neighbour's eyes, prevents him from seeing too clearly. But these favourites of the blindgoddess are few and far between; and they have for the most part, with aview to greater security, become holders or sharers of banks at SanAgustin, thus investing their fortune in a secure fund; more so decidedly, if we may believe the newspaper reports, than in the bank of the UnitedStates at this present writing. 

Time, in its revolutions whirling all things out of their places, has madeno change in the annual fête of San Agustin. Fashions alter. The gracefulmantilla gradually gives place to the ungraceful bonnet. The old paintedcoach, moving slowly like a caravan, with Guide's Aurora painted on itsgaudy panels, is dismissed for the London-built carriage. Old customs havepassed away. The ladies no longer sit on the door-sills, eating roast duckwith their fingers, or with the aid of tortillas. Even the Chinampas havebecome stationary, and have occasionally joined the continent. But theannual fête of San Agustin is built on a more solid foundation than tasteor custom, or floating soil. It is founded upon that love of gambling, which is said to be a passion inherent in our nature, and which iscertainly impregnated with the Mexican constitution, in man, woman, andchild. The beggars gamble at the corners of the streets or under thearches; the little boys gamble in groups in the villages; the coachmen andfootmen gamble at the doors of the theatre while waiting for their masters. 

But while their hand is thus _kept in_ all the year round, there are threedays sacredly set apart annually, in which every accommodation is given tothose who are bent upon ruining themselves or their neighbours; whilstevery zest that society can afford, is held out to render the temptationmore alluring. As religion is called in to sanctify everything, right orwrong; as the robber will plant a cross at the mouth of his cave, and thepulque-shops do occasionally call themselves "Pulquerias of the Most HolyVirgin, " so this season of gambling is fixed for the fête of _Pascua_(Whitsunday), and the churches and the gambling-houses are thrown opensimultaneously. 

The village is in itself pretty and picturesque; and, as a stone at itsentry informs us, was built by the active Viceroy Revillagigedo, with theproduct, as ----- assured us, of two lotteries. It is charmingly situated, in the midst of handsome villas and orchards, whose high walls, overtoppedby fruit-trees, border the narrow lanes. At this season the trees areloaded with the yellow _chabacano_ and the purple plum, already ripe; whilethe pear-trees are bending under the weight of their fruit. The gardens arefull of flowers; the roses in their last bloom, covering the crowd withtheir pink leaves, and jasmine and sweetpeas in profusion, making the airfragrant. The rainy season has scarce set in, though frequent showers havelaid the dust, and refreshed the air. The country villas are filled withall that is gayest and most distinguished in Mexico, and every house andevery room in the village has been hired for months in advance. The ladiesare in their most elegant toilets, and looking forward to a delightfulwhirl of dancing, cock-fighting, gambling, dining, dressing, and drivingabout. 

The high-road leading from Mexico to San Agustin is covered with vehiclesof every description; carriages, diligences, hackney-coaches, carts, andcarratelas. Those who are not fortunate enough to possess any wheeledconveyance, come out on horse, ass, or mule; single, double, or treble, ifnecessary; and many hundreds, with visions of silver before their eyes, anda few _clacos_ (pence), hid under their rags, trudge out on foot. ThePresident himself, in carriage-and-six, and attended by his aides-de-camp, sanctions by his presence the amusements of the fête. The Mexican generalsand other officers follow in his wake, and the gratifying spectacle may notunfrequently be seen, of the president leaning from his box in the _plazade gallos_, and betting upon a cock, with a coatless, bootless, hatless, and probably worthless ragamuffin in the pit. Every one, therefore, howeverhumble his degree, has the pleasure, while following his speculativeinclinations, of reflecting that he treads in the steps of the magnates ofthe land; and, as Sam Weller would say, "Vot a consolation that must be tohis feelings!"

At all events, nothing can be gayer than the appearance of the village, asyour carriage makes its way through the narrow lanes into the principalplaza, amidst the assembled crowd of coaches and foot-passengers; thoughthe faces of the people bear evidence that pleasure alone has not broughtthem to San Agustin. All round the square are the gambling-houses, wherefor three nights and three days every table is occupied. At the principal_montes_ nothing is played but gold, but as there is accommodation for allclasses, so there are silver tables in the inferior houses, while outsideare rows of tables on which are heaps of copper, covered with a ruggedawning, and surrounded by léperos and blanketed Indians, playing monta inimitation of their betters, though on a scale more suited to theirfinances. 

Having left Mexico early in the morning, we stopped to breakfast at SanAntonio, a noble hacienda, about four leagues from Mexico, belonging to theDowager Marquesa de Vivanco, where we breakfasted with a large party. It isa fine solid mass of building, and as you enter the courtyard, through adeep archway, the great outhouses, stables, and especially the granary, look like remains of feudalism, they are on so large and magnificent ascale. It is an immense and valuable property, producing both maize andmaguey, and the hospitality of the family, who are amongst our earliestfriends here, is upon as large a scale as everything that belongs to them. We had a splendid breakfast, in a fine old hall, and stayed but a shorttime to visit the gardens and the chapel, as we were anxious to arrive atSan Agustin in time for the cock-fight. 

It is singular, that while San Agustin is situated in the midst of the mostfertile and productive country, there should lie opposite to it, andbounded as it were by the graceful Peruvian trees and silver poplars whichsurround a small church on the other side of the high road, a great tractof black lava, steril, bleak, and entirely destitute of vegetation, calledthe _Pedregal_. This covers the country all along to San Agustin and to thebase of the mountain of Ajusco, which lies behind it, contrasting strangelywith the beautiful groves and gardens in its neighbourhood, and looking asif it had been cursed for some crime committed there. The high-road, whichruns nearly in a direct line from the hacienda to San Agustin, is broad andin tolerable repair; but before arriving there, it is so little attendedto, that during the rainy season it might be passed in canoes; yet thisimmense formation of ferruginous larva and porphyritic rock liesconveniently in its vicinity. A large sum, supposed to be employed inmending the road, is collected annually at the toll, close to San Antonio. For each carriage two dollars are asked, and for carts and animals inproportion. The proprietor of this toll or _postazgo_ is also the owner ofthe plaza de gallos, where a dollar is paid for entry, the sums produced bywhich go exclusively to enrich the same individual. The government has noadvantage from it. . . 

The last day of the fête is considered the best, and it is most crowded onthat day, both by families from Mexico and by foreigners who go solely forpleasure, though not unfrequently tempted to do a little business on theirown account. In fact, the temptations are great; and it must be difficultfor a young man to withstand them. 

We went to the _gallos_ about three o'clock. The plaza was crowded, and theladies in their boxes looked like a parterre of different-coloured flowers. But whilst the Señoras in their boxes did honour to the fête by theirbrilliant toilet, the gentlemen promenaded round the circle in jackets, high and low being on the same _curtailed_ footing, and certainly in astyle of dress more befitting the exhibition. The president and his suitewere already there, also several of the foreign Ministers. 

Meanwhile, the cocks crowed valiantly, bets were adjusted, and even thewomen entered into the spirit of the scene, taking bets with the gentlemen_sotto voce_ in their boxes, upon such and such favourite animal. As asmall knife is fastened to the leg of each cock, the battle seldom lastedlong, one or other falling every few minutes in a pool of blood. Then therewas a clapping of hands, mingled with the loud crowing of some unfortunatecock, who was giving himself airs previous to a combat where he wasprobably destined to crow his last. It has a curious effect to Europeaneyes, to see young ladies of good family, looking peculiarly feminine andgentle, sanctioning, by their presence, this savage diversion. It is nodoubt the effect of early habit, and you will say that at least it is noworse than a bull-fight; which is certain--yet cruel as the latter is, Ifind something more _en grande_, more noble, in the

 "Ungentle sport, that oft invites The Spanish maid, and cheers the Spanish swain;"

in the roaring of the "lord of lowing herds, " the galloping of the finehorses, the skill of the riders, the gay dresses, the music, and the agilematador; in short, in the whole pomp and circumstances of the combat, thanwhen one looks quietly on to see two birds peck each other's eyes out, andcut each other to pieces. Unlike cock-pits in other countries, attended byblacklegs and pickpockets and gentlemanly _roues_, by far the largestportion of the assembly in the pit was composed of the first young men inMexico, and for that matter, of the first old ones also. There was neitherconfusion, nor noise, nor even loud talking, far less swearing, amongst thelowest of those assembled in the ring; and it is this quiet and orderlybehaviour which throws over all these incongruities a cloak of decency anddecorum, that hides their impropriety so completely, that even foreignerswho have lived here a few years, and who were at first struck withastonishment by these things, are now quite reconciled to them. 

As far as the company went, it might have been the House of Representativesin Washington; the ladies in the gallery listening to the debates, and themembers in the body of the house surrounding Messrs. ----- and -----, or anyother two vehement orators; applauding their biting remarks and cuttingsarcasms, and encouraging them to crow over each other. The president mighthave been the speaker, and the corps diplomatique represented itself. 

We had an agreeable dinner at the E---s, and afterwards accompanied them tothe Calvario, a hill where there was a ball _al fresco_, which was ratheramusing, and then paid a visit to the family of General Moran, who has abeautiful house and gardens in the neighbourhood. We found a large partyassembled, and amongst them the president. Afterwards, accompanied by the----- Minister, and the ladies of our party, we went to take a view of thegambling-tables, and opened our eyes at the heaps of gold, which changedowners every minute. I saw C---a, a millionaire, win and lose a thousandounces apparently with equal indifference. A little advocate having won twothousand five hundred ounces, wisely ordered his carriage and set off forMexico, with the best _fee_ he had ever received in his life. Ladies do notgenerally look on at the tables, but may if they please, and especially ifthey be strangers. Each gambling-room was well fitted up, and looked like aprivate apartment. 

We then returned home and dressed for the ball, which was given in theevening in the plaza de gallos. We first went upstairs to a box, but Iafterwards took the advice of M. De ----- and came down to see the dancers. There were ladies in full dress, and gentlemen in white jackets--ratherinconsistent. The company, though perfectly quiet and well-behaved, werenot very select, and were, on that account, particularly amusing. Madamede ----- and I walked about, and certainly laughed much more than we shouldhave done in a more distinguished society. 

About two in the morning we returned to Mexico, and as I this momentreceive a note from the American Minister, informing me that the packetfrom Vera Cruz is about to sail, I shall send off my letters now; andshould we still be here next year, I shall then give you a more detaileddescription of the fête, of the ball, both at Calvario and in the cock-pit, and also of the "high life below stairs" gambling, at which the scenes are_impayable_. In one respect the fashions of San Agustin are altered fromwhat they were a few years ago, when the Señoras used to perform fiveelaborate and distinct toilets daily; the first in the morning, the secondfor the cockfight, the third for the dinner, the fourth for the ball on thehill of Calvary, and the fifth for the ball in the evening. I am told thatas they danced in the open air, on the hill, with all their diamonds andpearls on, in the midst of an immense concourse of people, a great manyjewels were constantly lost, which the _léperos_ used afterwards to searchfor, and pick up from the grass; a rich harvest. Though they still dress agreat deal, they are contented with changing their toilet twice, or at themost, three times in the course of the day. 

Upon the whole, these three days are excessively amusing, and as all ranksand conditions are mingled, one sees much more variety than at a ball inthe city. 

On their way home, C---n and Señor ----- discussed the effects likely to beproduced on the morals of the people by this fête. Señor -----, like nearlyall the wisest men here, persists in considering gambling an innocentamusement, and declares, that at all events, this fête ought never to bedone away with. In his opinion, it conduces to the happiness of the people, gives them an annual pleasure to look forward to, and by the mingling ofall ranks which then takes place, keeps up a good feeling between thehigher and lower orders. C---n asked him why, if such was the case, thegovernment did not at least endeavour to draw some advantage from it, afterthe manner of the Count de Revillagigedo--why, as the bank, by the natureof the game, has, besides a great capital, which swallows up all thesmaller ones, an immense profit, amounting to twenty-five per cent. , theydo not make the bankers pay four or five per cent. , and charge half adollar or more to each individual who enters to gamble; with which moneythey might beautify the village, make a public _pasoe_, a good road, acanal to Mexico, etc. 

I thought that whatever the government might feel on this subject, neitherthe bankers nor the gamblers would relish the insinuation. I shall write ina few days by the Baron de -----, Minister from -----, who leaves Mexico ina fortnight. 

LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND

Countess C---a--Gutierrez Estrada--Dinner at General Moran's--DowagerMarquesa--Fête at San Antonio--Approach of the Rainy Season--Diamonds andPlate--Great Ball--Night Travelling--Severe Storm--Chapter of Accidents--Corpus Christi--Poblana Dress--Book-club--Ball--Humming-bird--FranciscanFriar--Missions to Old and New California--Zeal and Endurance of theMissionaries--Present Condition--Convent Gardener. 

17th June. 

As we dine nearly every Sunday with the Countess de la C---a at Tacubay, where she keeps open house to all her friends, we have had the pleasure ofbecoming intimately acquainted with her son-in-law, Señor GutierrezEstrada, who, with his amiable wife, has lately returned from Europe. 

Fête at San Antonio

A great dinner was given us the other day by General Moran and his lady theMarquesa de Vivanco, at San Agustin. We went early that we might have timeto walk about the garden, which is beautiful, and to visit an artificialcave there, which we found lighted up with coloured lamps, and where a mostfascinating species of cold milk punch, with cakes, was served to thecompany. The dinner would certainly have been superb in any country; thefamily have travelled a great deal in Europe, (_per force_, the generalhaving been exiled for several years, ) and are amongst the oldest andrichest in Mexico. The dowager marquesa has a most patriarchal family ofdaughters and grand-daughters, and of the large party assembled at table, nearly all were composed of its different members. In the evening we had apleasant dance under the trees. 

20th. --Being invited yesterday to a fête at San Antonio, we left Mexicoabout eight o'clock, by the great causeway leading to San Agustin. The daywas peculiarly brilliant, but the rainy season is now announcing itsapproach by frequent showers towards evening. We found a large partyassembled, and about twelve o'clock sat down to a most magnificentbreakfast of about sixty persons. Everything was solid silver; even theplates. A vast capital is sunk in diamonds and plate in this country, nogood sign of the state of commerce. The ladies in general were dressed inwhite embroidered muslins, over white or coloured satin, and one or twoParis dresses shone conspicuous. There was one specimen of real Mexicanbeauty; the Señora---, a face perhaps more Indian than Spanish, very dark, with fine eyes, beautiful teeth, very long dark hair, and full ofexpression. The house, which is immensely large, is furnished, or ratherunfurnished, in the style of all Mexican haciendas. After breakfast, we hadmusic, dancing, walking, and billiard-playing. Some boleros were verygracefully danced by a daughter of the marquesa's, and they also showed ussome dances of the country. The fête terminated with the most beautifulsupper I almost ever saw. A great hall was lighted with coloured lamps, thewalls entirely lined with green branches, and hung with fresh garlands offlowers most tastefully arranged. There was a great deal of gaiety andcordiality, of magnificence without ceremony, and riches withoutpretension. Although warned by various showers that a bad night wouldprobably set in, and although it was too likely that the hospitality withinthe house would be extended to our coachmen, and even though the wholeparty were strongly pressed by the marquesa to pass the night there, sothat it was with difficulty we resisted her entreaties to remain, we did, in the face of all this, set off at twelve o'clock at night to return toMexico; about seven carriages together, with various gentlemen riding. Though very dark there was no rain, and we flattered ourselves it wouldkeep fair till we reached the city. The Minister of the interior, who ismarried to a daughter of the marquesa, C---n and I, and La Guera Rodriguez, set off in one carriage. Some carriages had lamps, others had none. Somehad six horses; we had six mules, and an escort of dragoons. We had notgone two miles before a thunderstorm came on; and the black clouds whichhad been gathering above our heads burst forth in torrents of rain. Thewind was tremendous. All the lamps were extinguished. The horses waded upto their knees in mud--and water. Suddenly there was a crash, followed byloud cries. A carriage was overturned, in which were the Señora L---- and aparty of gentlemen. In the midst of this awful storm, and perhaps stillmore bewildered by generous liquor, their coachman had lost his way, andlodged them all in a ditch. The poor Señora was dreadfully bruised, herhead cut, and her wrist dislocated. In the darkness and confusion she wasextricated with difficulty, and placed in another carriage. 

Our mules stood still. As far as the noise of the storm would allow us tohear, we made out that our coachman also had lost the road. Two dragoonsrode up to direct him. One fell, horse and all, into a deep ditch, where heremained till the next morning. Another carriage came ploughing its waybehind us. Another exclamation in the darkness! A mule had fallen andbroken his traces, and plunged into the water. The poor animal could not befound. Never was there such a chapter of accidents. We were the onlycarriage-load which escaped entirely, owing chiefly to the sobriety of thecoachman. Very slowly and after sundry detentions, we arrived in Mexicotowards morning, very tired, but with neither broken bones nor bruises. 

18th. --Day of the Corpus Christi, in which the host is carried through thecity in great procession at which the president, in full uniform, thearchbishop, and all the Ministers, etc. , assist. In former days thisceremony took place on Holy Thursday; but finding that, on account of thevarious ceremonies of the holy week, it could not be kept with duesolemnity, another day was set apart for its celebration. We went to awindow in the square, to see the procession, which was very brilliant; allthe troops out, and the streets crowded. Certainly, a stranger enteringMexico on one of these days would be struck with surprise at its apparentwealth. Everything connected with the church is magnificent. 

This evening the Señora A---- came after it was dark, in a Poblana dress, which she had just bought to wear at a _Jamaica_, which they are going tohave in the country--a sort of fair, where all the girls disguisethemselves in peasants' dresses, and go about selling fruit, lemonade, vegetables, etc. , to each other--a very ancient Mexican amusement. Thisdress cost her some hundred dollars. The top of the petticoat is yellowsatin; the rest, which is of scarlet cashmere, is embroidered in gold andsilver. Her hair was fastened back with a thick silver comb, and herornaments were very handsome, coral set in gold. Her shoes white satin, embroidered in gold; the sleeves and body of the chemise, which is of thefinest cambric, trimmed with rich lace; and the petticoat, which comesbelow the dress, shows two flounces of Valenciennes. She looks beautiful inthis dress, which will not be objected to in the country, though it mightnot suit a fancy ball in Mexico. 

June 27th. --I was awakened this morning by hearing that two boxes hadarrived from New York, containing books, letters, etc. ; all veryacceptable. We also received a number of old newspapers by post, for whichwe had to pay eighteen dollars! Each sheet costs a real and a half--amistaken source of profit in a republic, where the general diffusion ofknowledge is of so much importance, for this not only applies to theintroduction of French and English, but also of Spanish newspapers. SeñorsGutierrez Estrada and Canedo used every effort to reduce this duty onnewspapers, but in vain. The post-office opposes its reduction, fearing tobe deprived of an imaginary rent--imaginary, because so few persons, comparatively, think it worth their while to go to this expense. There isbut one daily newspaper in Mexico, "La Gazeta del Gobierno" (the governmentpaper), and it is filled with orders and decrees. An opposition paper, the"Cosmopolita, " is published twice a week; also a Spanish paper, the"Hesperia;" both (especially the last) are well written. There is also the"Mosquito, " so called from its stinging sarcasms. Now and then another witha new title appears, like a shooting star, but, from want of support, orfrom some other motive, is suddenly extinguished. 

Enlightened individuals like Don Lucas Alaman and Count Cortina havepublished newspapers, but not for any length of time. Count Cortina, especially, edited a very witty and brilliant paper called the "Zurriago, "the "Scourge, " and another called the "Mono, " the "Ape;" and in many of hisarticles he was tolerably severe upon the incorrect Spanish of his brothereditors, of which no one can be a better judge, he having been a member ofthe "Academia de la Lengua, " in Spain. 

The only kind of monthly review in Mexico is the "Mosaico Megicano, " whoseeditor has made his fortune by his own activity and exertions. Frequentlyit contains more translations than original matter; but from time to timeit publishes scientific articles, said to be written by Don J. M. Bustamante, which are very valuable, and occasionally a brilliant articlefrom the pen of Count Cortina. General Orbegoso, who is of Spanish origin, is also a contributor. Sometimes, though rarely, it publishes "documentosineditos" (unedited documents), connected with Mexican antiquities, andMexican natural history and biography, which are very important; and nowand then it contains a little poetical gem, I know not whether original ornot, but exceedingly beautiful. So far as it goes, this review is one greatmeans of spreading know-ledge, at least amongst the better classes; but Iunderstand that the editor, Don Ygnacio Cumplido, a very courteous, intelligent man, complains that it does not pay. 

There are no circulating libraries in Mexico. Books are at least double theprice that they are in Europe. There is no diffusion of useful knowledgeamongst the people; neither cheap pamphlets nor cheap magazines written fortheir amusement or instruction; but this is less owing to want of attentionto their interests on the part of many good and enlightened men, than tothe unsettled state of the country; for the blight of civil war preventsthe best systems from ripening. 

Fortunately, there is an English society here, a kind of book-club, who, with their Minister, have united in a subscription to order from Englandall the new publications, and as C---n is a member of this society, we arenot so _arrieres_ in regard to the literature of the day as might besupposed. Like all English societies, its basis is a good dinner, whicheach member gives in turn, once a month, after which there is a sale of thebooks that have been read, and propositions for new books are given in tothe president. It is an excellent plan, and I believe is in part adopted byother foreigners here. But Germans of a certain class do not seem to besufficiently numerous for such an undertaking, and the French in Mexico, barring some distinguished exceptions, are apt to be amongst the very worstspecimens of that people which "le plaisant pays de France" can furnishforth. 

We went lately to a ball given by a young Englishman, which was verypretty, and where nearly all the English were collected. Of families, thereare not more than half a dozen resident here, the members of whom form astriking contrast in complexion to the _Mexicanas_. With very fewexceptions (and these in the case of English women married to foreigners);they keep themselves entirely aloof from the Mexicans, live quietly intheir own houses, into which they have transplanted as much Englishcomfort as possible, rarely travel, and naturally find Mexico the dullest ofcities. C---n has gone to dine with the English Minister, and I am leftalone in this large room, with nothing but a humming-bird to keep mecompany; the last of my half-dozen. It looks like a large blue fly, and isperfectly tame, but will not live many days. 

I was startled by a solemn voice, saying, "Ave María Purissima!" Andlooking up there stood in the doorway a "friar of orders gray, " bringingsome message to C---n from the head of the convent of San Fernando, withwhich monks C---n has formed a great intimacy, chiefly in consequence ofthe interest which he has taken in the history of their missions toCalifornia. 

In fact, when we hear the universal cry that is raised against thesecommunities for the inutility of their lives, it is but just thatexceptions should be made in favour of those orders, who, like the monks ofSan Fernando, have dispersed their missionaries over some of the mostmiserable parts of the globe, and who, undeterred by danger, and by theprospect of death, have carried light to the most benighted savages. Theseinstitutions are of a very remote date. A learned Jesuit monk, EusebioKuhn, is said to have been the first who discovered that California was apeninsula. In 1683 the Jesuits had formed establishments in old California, and for the first time it was made known that the country which had untilthen been considered an El Dorado, rich in all precious metals anddiamonds, was arid, stony, and without water or earth fit for vegetation;that where there is a spring of water it is to be found amongst the barerocks, and where there is earth there is no water. A few spots were foundby these industrious men, uniting these advantages, and there they foundedtheir first missions. 

But the general hatred with which the Jesuits were regarded, excitedsuspicion against them, and it was generally supposed that their accountswere false, and that they were privately becoming possessed of muchtreasure. A _visitador_ (surveyor) was sent to examine into the truth, andthough he could discover no traces of gold or silver, he was astonished bythe industry and zeal with which they had cultivated the barren andtreeless waste. In a few years they had built sixteen villages, and whenthey were expelled, in 1767, the Dominican friars of Mexico took theirplace. 

Until these missions were established, and in every part of the peninsulawhich is not included in the territory of the missions, the savages werethe most degraded specimens of humanity existing. More degraded than thebeasts of the field, they lay all day upon their faces on the arid sand, basking in the heat; they abhorred all species of clothing, and their onlyreligion was a secret horror that caused them to tremble at the idea ofthree divinities, belonging to three different tribes, and which divinitieswere themselves supposed to feel a mortal hatred, and to wage perpetual waragainst each other. 

Undeterred by the miserable condition both of human and of vegetablenature, these missionaries cultivated the ground, established colonies, made important astronomical observations, and devoted themselves toscience, to agriculture, and to the amelioration of the condition of thesewretched savages. 

In New California, the missions were under the charge of thirty-sixFranciscan friars, under whom the most extraordinary progress incivilization took place; since in little more than thirty years, upwards ofthirty-three thousand Indians were baptized, and eight thousand marriageshad taken place. The soil being fertile and the climate more benign than inthe other California, in eighteen missions established there, theycultivated corn, wheat, maize, etc. , and introduced vegetables andfruit-trees from Spain; amongst these the vine and the olive, from whichexcellent wine and oil were made all through that part of the country. 

Amongst the monks destined to these distant missions were those of SanFernando. There, banished from the world, deprived of all the advantages ofcivilization, they devoted themselves to the task of _taming_ the wildIndians, introduced marriage amongst them, taught them to cultivate theground, together with some of the most simple arts; assisted their wants, reproved their sins, and transplanted the beneficent doctrines ofChristianity amongst them, using no arms but the influence which religionand kindness, united with extreme patience, had over their stubbornnatures; and making what Humboldt, in speaking of the Jesuit missions, calls "a pacific conquest" of the country. 

Many were the hardships which these poor men endured; changed from place toplace; at one time ordered to some barren shore, where it was necessary torecommence their labours, --at another, recalled to the capital by orders ofthe prelate, in conjunction with the wishes of their brethren, among whomthere was a species of congress, called by them a _capitulo_. No increaseof rank, no reward, no praise, inspired their labours; their onlyrecompense was their intimate conviction of doing good to theirfellow-creatures. 

In the archives of the convent there still exist papers, proving thehardships which these men underwent; the zeal with which they appliedthemselves to the study of the languages of the country; (and when we areinformed that in the space of one hundred and eighty leagues, nineteendifferent languages are spoken, it was no such easy task;) and containingtheir descriptions of its physical and moral state, more or less wellwritten, according to their different degrees of instruction or talent. 

It frequently happened that marketable goods and even provisions had to besent by sea to those missionaries who lived in the most savage anduncultivated parts of the peninsula; and a curious anecdote on this subjectwas related to C---n by one of these men, who is now a gardener byprofession. It happened that some one sent to the monks, amongst otherthings, a case of fine Malaga raisins; and one of the monks, whose name Iforget, sowed a number of the dried seeds. In process of time they sproutedup, became vines, and produced fine grapes, from which the best wine inCalifornia was made. 

When the independence was declared, and that revolutionary fury which makesa merit of destroying every establishment, good or bad, which is the workof the opposite party, broke forth; the Mexicans, to prove their hatred tothe mother-country, destroyed these beneficent institutions; thuscommitting an error as fatal in its results as when in 1828 they expelledso many rich proprietors, who were followed into exile by their numerousfamilies and by their old servants, who gave them in these times of troubleproofs of attachment and fidelity belonging to a race now scarcely existinghere, except amongst a few of the oldest families. 

The result has been, that the frontiers, being now unprotected by themilitary garrisons or _presidios_, which were established there, anddeserted by the missionaries, the Indians are no longer kept undersubjection, either by the force of arms or by the good counsels andpersuasive influence of their padres. The Mexican territory is, inconsequence, perpetually exposed to their invasions--whole families aremassacred by the savages, who exchange guns for rifles, which they alreadyknow how to use, and these evil consequences are occasionally andimperfectly averted at a great expense to the republic. Bustamante hasindeed been making an investigation lately as to the funds and generalcondition of these establishments, with the intention of re-establishingsome similar institutions; but as yet I believe that nothing decisive hasbeen done in this respect. . . . 

Near the convent there is a beautiful garden, where we sometimes walk inthe morning, cultivated by an old monk, who, after spending a laboriouslife in these distant missions, is now enjoying a contented old age amonghis plants and flowers. Perhaps you are tired of my _prosing_ (caused bythe apparition of the old lay-brother), and would prefer some account ofhim in verse. 

 An aged monk in San Fernando dwells, An innocent and venerable man; His earlier days were spent within its cells. And end obscurely as they first began. Manhood's career in savage climes he ran, On lonely California's Indian shore-- Dispelling superstition's deadly ban, Or teaching (what could patriot do more?) Those rudiments of peace, the gardener's humble store. 

 Oft have I marked him, silent and apart, Loitering near the sunny convent-gate, Rewarded by tranquillity of heart For toils so worthy of the truly great; And in my soul admired, compared his state With that of some rude brawler, whose crude mind Some wondrous change on earth would fain create; Who after flatt'ring, harassing mankind, Gains titles, riches, pomp, with shame and scorn combined. 

LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD

The President--Yturbide--Visit from the Archbishop--Señor Canedo--General Almonte--Señor Cuevas--Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico--OfSeñor Posada--His Life--Mexican Charity--Wax Figures--Anecdote--ValuablePresent--Education--Comparison--Schools--Opportunities--NaturalTalent--Annual--Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor--Familiesof the Old School--Morals--Indulgence--Manners--Love of Country--Colleges. 

5th July. 

Yesterday morning we had a visit from the president, with two of hisofficers. He was riding one of the handsomest black horses I ever saw. Ongoing out we stopped to look at a wax figure of Yturbide on horseback, which he considers a good resemblance, and which was sent me as a presentsome time ago. He ought to be a good judge, as he was a most devoted friendof the unfortunate Agustin I. , who, whatever were his faults, seems to haveinspired his friends with the most devoted and enthusiastic attachment. Inthe prime of life, brave and active, handsome and fond of show, he had allthe qualities which render a chief popular with the multitude; "butpopularity, when not based upon great benefits, is transient; it is foundedupon a principle of egotism, because a whole people cannot have personalsympathies. " Ambition led him to desert the royal cause which he had servedfor nine years; and vanity blinded him to the dangers that surrounded himin the midst of his triumphs, even when proclaimed emperor by the unitedvoice of the garrison and city of Mexico--when his horses were taken fromhis carriage, and when, amidst the shouts of the multitude, his coach wasdragged in triumph to the palace. His great error, according to those whotalk of him impartially, was indecision in the most critical emergencies, and his permitting himself to be governed by circumstances, instead ofdirecting these circumstances as they occurred. 

I could not help thinking, as the general stood there looking at the waxenimage of his friend, what a stormy life he himself has passed; how littlereal tranquillity he can ever have enjoyed, and wondering whether he willbe permitted to finish his presidential days in peace, which, according torumour, is doubtful. 

8th. --I had the honour of a long visit this morning from his grace thearchbishop. He came about eleven o'clock, after mass, and remained tilldinner-time, sitting out all our Sunday visitors, who are generallynumerous, as it is the only day of rest for _employés_, and especially forthe cabinet. Amongst our visitors were Señor Canedo, who is extremelyagreeable in conversation, and as an orator famed for his sarcasm andcutting wit. He has been particularly kind and friendly to us ever sinceour arrival--General Almonte, Minister of War, a handsome man and pleasant, and an officer of great bravery--very unpopular with one party andespecially disliked by the English, but also a great friend of ours. SeñorCuevas, Minister of the Interior, married to a daughter of the Marquesa deVivanco, an amiable and excellent man, who seems generally liked, and isalso most friendly to us. All these gentlemen are praised or abusedaccording to the party of the person who speaks of them; but I notinterferring in Mexican politics, find them amongst the most pleasant ofour acquaintances. 

However, were I to choose a situation here, it would undoubtedly be that ofArchbishop of Mexico, the most enviable in the world to those who wouldenjoy a life of tranquillity, ease, and universal adoration. He is a popewithout the trouble, or a tenth part of the responsibility. He is veneratedmore than the Holy Father is in enlightened Rome, and, like kings in thegood old times, can do no wrong. His salary amounts to about one hundredthousand dollars, and a revenue might be made by the sweetmeats alone whichare sent him from all the nuns in the republic. His palace in town, hiswell-cushioned carriage, well-conditioned horses, and sleek mules, seem thevery perfection of comfort. In fact, _comfort_, which is unknown amongstthe profane of Mexico, has taken refuge with the archbishop; and thoughmany drops of it are shed on the shaven heads of all bishops, curates, confessors, and friars, still in his illustrious person it concentrates asin a focus. He himself is a benevolent, good-hearted, good-natured, portly, and jovial personage, with the most _laissez-aller_ air and expressionconceivable. He looks like one on whom the good things of this world havefallen in a constant and benignant shower, which shower hath fallen on arich and fertile soil. He is generally to be seen leaning back in hiscarriage, dressed in purple, with amethyst cross, and giving hisbenediction to the people as he passes. He seems engaged in a pleasantrevery, and his countenance wears an air of the most placid and_insouciant_ content. He enjoys a good dinner, good wine, and ladies'society, but just sufficiently to make his leisure hours pass pleasantly, without indigestion from the first, headaches from the second, orheartaches from the third. So does his life seem to pass on like a deepuntroubled stream, on whose margin grow sweet flowers, on whose clearwaters the bending trees are reflected, but on whose placid face no lastingimpression is made. 

I have no doubt that his charities are in proportion to his large fortune;and when I say that I have no doubt of this, it is because I firmly believethere exists no country in the world where charities, both public andprivate, are practised on so noble a scale, especially by the women underthe direction of the priests. I am inclined to believe that, generallyspeaking, charity is a distinguishing attribute of a Catholic country. 

The archbishop is said to be a man of good information, and was at one timea senator. In 1833, being comprehended in the law of banishment, caused bythe political disturbances which have never ceased to afflict this countrysince the independence, he passed some time in the United States, chieflyin New Orleans; but this, I believe, is the only cloud that has darkenedhis horizon, or disturbed the tranquil current of his life. Hisconsecration, with its attendant fatigues, must have been to him awearisome overture to a pleasant drama, a hard stepping-stone to glory. Asto the rest, he is very unostentatious, and his conversation is far fromaustere. On the contrary, he is one of the best-tempered and most cheerfulold men in society that it is possible to meet with. . . . 

I send you, by the Mexican commissioners, who are kind enough to takecharge of a box for me, the figure of a Mexican _tortillera_, by which youmay judge a little of the perfection in which the commonest _lépero_ hereworks in wax. The incredible patience which enabled the ancient Mexicans towork their statues in wood or stone with the rudest instruments, hasdescended to their posterity, as well as their extraordinary and trulyChinese talent for imitation. With a common knife and a piece of hard wood, an uneducated man will produce a fine piece of sculpture. There is noimagination. They do not leave the beaten track, but continue on the modelswhich the Spanish conquerors brought out with them, some of which, however, were very beautiful. 

In wax, especially, their figures have been brought to great perfection. Everything that surrounds them they can imitate, and their wax portraitsare sometimes little gems of art; but in this last branch, which belongs toa higher order of art, there are no good workmen at present. 

_A propos_ to which, a poor artist brought some tolerable wax portraitshere for sale the other day, and, amongst others, that of a celebratedgeneral. C---n remarked that it was fairer than the original, as far as herecollected. "Ah!" said the man, "but when his excellency _washes hisface_, nothing can be more exact. " A valuable present was sent lately by agentleman here, to the Count de ----- in Spain; twelve cases, each casecontaining twelve wax figures; each figure representing some Mexican trade, or profession or employment. There were men drawing the pulque from themaguey, Indian women selling vegetables, tortilleras, venders of ducks, fruitmen, lard-sellers, the postman of Guachinango, loaded with parrots, monkeys, etc. , --more of everything than of letters--the Poblana peasant, the rancherita on horseback before her farm-servant, the gaily-dressedranchero, in short, a little history of Mexico in wax. . . . 

You ask me how Mexican women are educated. In answering you, I must putaside a few brilliant exceptions, and speak _en masse_, the most difficultthing in the world, for these exceptions are always rising up before melike accusing angels, and I begin to think of individuals, when I shouldkeep to generalities. Generally speaking, then, the Mexican Señoras andSeñoritas write, read, and play a little, sew, and take care of theirhouses and children. When I say they read, I mean they know how to read;when I say they write, I do not mean that they can always spell; and when Isay they play, I do not assert that they have generally a knowledge ofmusic. If we compare their education with that of girls in England, or inthe United States, it is not a comparison, but a contrast. Compare it withthat of Spanish women, and we shall be less severe upon their _far niente_descendants. In the first place, the climate inclines every one toindolence, both physically and morally. One cannot pore over a book whenthe blue sky is constantly smiling in at the open windows; then, out ofdoors after ten o'clock, the sun gives us due warning of our tropicallatitude, and even though the breeze is so fresh and pleasant, one has noinclination to walk or ride far. Whatever be the cause, I am convinced thatit is impossible to take the same exercise with the mind or with the bodyin this country, as in Europe or in the northern states. Then as toschools, there are none that can deserve the name, and no governesses. Young girls can have no emulation, for they never meet. They have no publicdiversion, and no private amusement. There are a few good foreign masters, most of whom have come to Mexico for the purpose of making their fortune, by teaching, or marriage, or both, and whose object, naturally, is to makethe most money in the shortest possible time, that they may return home andenjoy it. The children generally appear to have an extraordinarydisposition for music and drawing, yet there are few girls who areproficient in either. 

When very young, they occasionally attend the schools, where boys and girlslearn to read in common, or any other accomplishment that the old women canteach them; but at twelve they are already considered too old to attendthese promiscuous assemblages, and masters are got for drawing and music tofinish their education. I asked a lady the other day if her daughter wentto school. "Good heavens!" said she, quite shocked, "she is past elevenyears old!" It frequently happens that the least well-informed girls arethe children of the cleverest men, who, keeping to the customs of theirforefathers, are content if they confess regularly, attend churchconstantly, and can embroider and sing a little. Where there are moreextended ideas, it is chiefly amongst families who have travelled inEurope, and have seen the different education of women in foreigncountries. Of these the fathers occasionally devote a short portion oftheir time to the instruction of their daughters, perhaps during theirleisure evening moments, but it may easily be supposed that this desultorysystem has little real influence on the minds of the children. I do notthink there are above half-a-dozen married women, or as many girls abovefourteen, who, with the exception of the mass-book, read any one bookthrough in the whole course of the year. They thus greatly simplify thesystem of education in the United States, where parties are frequentlydivided between the advocates for solid learning and those for superficialaccomplishments; and according to whom it is difficult to amalgamate thesolid beef of science with the sweet sauce of _les beaux arts_. 

But if a Mexican girl is ignorant, she rarely shows it. They have generallythe greatest possible tact; never by any chance wandering out of theirdepth, or betraying by word or sign that they are not well informed of thesubject under discussion. Though seldom graceful, they are never awkward, and always self-possessed. They have plenty of natural talent, and where ithas been thoroughly cultivated, no women can surpass them. Of what iscalled literary society, there is of course none--

 "No bustling Botherbys have they to show 'em That charming passage in the last new poem. "

There is a little annual lying beside me called "_Calendario de lasSeñoritas Mejicanas_, " of which the preface, by Galvan, the editor, is veryamusing. 

"To none, " he says, "better than to Mexican ladies, can I dedicate thismark of attention--(_obsequio_). Their graceful attractions well deserveany trouble that may have been taken to please them. Their bodies aregraceful as the palms of the desert; their hair black as ebony, or goldenas the rays of the sun, gracefully waves over their delicate shoulders;their glances are like the peaceful light of the moon. The Mexican ladiesare not so white as the Europeans, but their whiteness is more agreeable toour eyes. Their words are soft, leading our hearts by gentleness, in thesame manner as in their moments of just indignation they appal and confoundus. Who can resist the magic of their song, always sweet, always gentle, and always natural? Let us leave to foreign ladies (_las ultramarinas_)these affected and scientific manners of singing; here nature surpassesart, as happens in everything, notwithstanding the cavillings of thelearned. 

"And what shall I say of their souls? I shall say that in Europe the mindsare more cultivated, but in Mexico the hearts are more amiable. Here theyare not only sentimental, but tender; not only soft, but virtuous; the bodyof a child is not more sensitive, (_no es mas sensible el cuerpo de unniño_), nor a rose-bud softer. I have seen souls as beautiful as theborders of the rainbow, and purer than the drops of dew. Their passions areseldom tempestuous, and even then they are kindled and extinguished easily;but generally they emit a peaceful light, like the morning star, Venus. Modesty is painted in their eyes, and modesty is the greatest and mostirresistible fascination of their souls. In short, the Mexican ladies, bytheir manifold virtues, are destined to serve as our support whilst wetravel through the sad desert of life. 

"Well do these attractions merit that we should try to please them; and ineffect a new form, new lustre, and new graces have been given to the'Almanac of the Mexican Ladies, ' whom the editor submissively entreats toreceive with benevolence this small tribute due to their enchantments andtheir virtues!"

There are in Mexico a few families of the old school, people of high rank, but who mingle very little in society; who are little known to thegenerality of foreigners, and who keep their daughters entirely at home, that they may not be contaminated by bad example. These select few, richwithout ostentation, are certainly doing everything that is in their powerto remedy the evils occasioned by the want of proper schools, or ofcompetent instructresses for their daughters. Being nearly all allied bybirth, or connected by marriage, they form a sort of _clan_; and it issufficient to belong to one or other of these families, to be hospitablyreceived by all. They meet together frequently, without ceremony, andwhatever elements of good exist in Mexico, are to be found amongst them. The fathers are generally men of talent and learning, and the mothers, women of the highest respectability, to whose name no suspicion can beattached. 

But, indeed, it is long before a stranger even suspects the state of moralsin this country, for whatever be the private conduct of individuals, themost perfect decorum prevails in outward behaviour. But indolence is themother of vice, and not only to little children might Doctor Watts haveasserted that

 "Satan finds some mischief still, For idle hands to do. "

They are besides extremely _leal_ to each other, and with proper _esprit decorps_, rarely gossip to strangers concerning the errors of theirneighbours' ways;--indeed, if such a thing is hinted at, deny all knowledgeof the fact. So long as outward decency is preserved, habit has renderedthem entirely indifferent as to the _liaisons_ subsisting amongst theirparticular friends; and as long as a woman attends church regularly, is apatroness of charitable institutions, and gives no scandal by her outwardbehaviour, she may do pretty much as she pleases. As for flirtations inpublic, they are unknown. 

I must, however, confess that this indulgence on the part of women ofunimpeachable reputation is sometimes carried too far. We went lately to abreakfast, at which was a young and beautiful countess, lately married, andof very low birth. She looked very splendid, with all the ----- diamonds, and a dress of rose-coloured satin. After breakfast we adjourned to anotherroom, where I admired the beauty of a little child who was playing about onthe floor, when this lady said, "Yes, she is very pretty--very like mylittle girl, who is just the same age. " I was rather surprised, butconcluded she had been a widow, and made the inquiry of an old French ladywho was sitting near me. "Oh, no!" said she--"she was never married before;she alludes to the children she had before the count became acquainted withher!" And yet the Señora de -----, the strictest woman in Mexico, wasloading her with attentions and caresses. I must say, however, that thiswas a singular instance. . . . 

There are no women more affectionate in their manners than those of Mexico. In fact, a foreigner, especially if he be an Englishman, and a shy man, andaccustomed to the coolness of his fair countrywomen, need only live a fewyears here, and understand the language, and become accustomed to thepeculiar style of beauty, to find the Mexican Señoritas perfectlyirresistible. 

And that this is so, may be judged of by the many instances of Englishmenmarried to the women of this country, who _invariably_ make them excellentwives. But when an Englishman marries here, he ought to settle here, for itis very rare that a _Mexicaine_ can live out of her own country. They missthe climate--they miss that warmth of manner, that universal cordiality bywhich they are surrounded here. They miss the _laissez-aller_ and absenceof all etiquette in habits, toilet, etc. They find themselves surrounded bywomen so differently educated, as to be doubly strangers to them, strangersin feeling as well as in country. A very few instances there are of girls, married very young, taken to Europe, and introduced into good society, whohave acquired European ways of thinking, and even prefer other countries totheir own; but this is so rare, as scarcely to form an exception. They aretrue patriots, and the visible horizon bounds their wishes. In Englandespecially, they are completely out of their element. A language nearlyimpossible for them to acquire, a religion which they consider heretical, outward coldness covering inward warmth, a perpetual war between sun andfog, etiquette carried to excess, an insupportable stiffness and order inthe article of the toilet; rebosos unknown, _cigaritos_ consideredbarbarous. . . . They feel like exiles from paradise, and live but in hopes ofa speedy return. 

As to the colleges for young men, although various projects of reform havebeen made by enlightened men in regard to them, especially by Don LucasAlaman, and afterwards by Señor Gutierrez Estrada, and though to a certainextent many of the plans were carried into effect, it is a universal sourceof complaint among the most distinguished persons in Mexico, that in orderto give their sons a thorough education, it is necessary to send themabroad. 

LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH

Revolution in Mexico--Gomez Farias and General Urrea--The Federalists--ThePresident Imprisoned--Firing--Cannon--First News--Escape--Proclamation ofthe Government--Cannonading--Count C---a--Houses deserted--Countess delV---e--Proclamation of the Federalists--Circular of the Federalists--Scarcity of Provisions--Bursting of a Shell--Refugees--Dr. Plan--YoungLady Shot--Gomez Farias--Rumours--Address of Gomez Farias--Balls andBullets--Visit from the ----- Minister--Arrival of Monsieur de -------Expected Attack--Skirmish--Appearance of the Street--San Cosme--General-------The Count de B------More Rumours--Suspense--Cannonading--GovernmentBulletin--Plan of the Rebels defeated--Proclamation of the President--OfGeneral Valencia--Maternal Affection--Fresh Reports--Families leaving theCity--Letter from Santa Anna--Bustamante's Letter when Imprisoned--Propositions--Refusal--Tacubaya--Archbishop--Fresh Proposals--Refusal--Second Letter from Santa Anna--Government Bulletin--Proclamations--Anawkward Mistake-The Archbishop visits the President--Conclusion of theRevolution--Government Newspapers--Circulars. 

July 15th. 

Revolution in Mexico! or _Pronunciamiento_, as they call it. The stormwhich has for some time been brewing, has burst forth at last. DonValentin Gomez Farias and the banished General Urrea have pronounced forfederalism. At two this morning, joined by the fifth battalion and theregiment of _comercio_, they took up arms, set off for the palace, surprised the president in his bed, and took him prisoner. Our firstinformation was a message, arriving on the part of the government, desiring the attendance of our two old soldiers, who put on their olduniforms, and set off quite pleased. Next came our friend Don M---- del C---o, who advised us to haul out the Spanish colours, that they might be inreadiness to fly on the balcony in case of necessity. Little by little, more Spaniards arrived with different reports as to the state of things. Some say that it will end in a few hours--others, that it will be a longand bloody contest. Some are assured that it will merely terminate in achange of ministry--others that Santa Anna will come on directly and usurpthe presidency. At all events, General Valencia, at the head of thegovernment troops, is about to attack the pronunciados, who are inpossession of the palace. . . . 

The firing has begun! People come running up the street. The Indians arehurrying back to their villages in double-quick trot. As we are not in thecentre of the city, our position for the present is very safe, all thecannon being directed towards the palace. All the streets near the squareare planted with cannon, and it is pretended that the revolutionary partyare giving arms to the _léperos_. The cannon are roaring now. All along thestreet people are standing on the balconies, looking anxiously in thedirection of the palace, or collected in groups before the doors, and theazoteas, which are out of the line of fire, are covered with men. They areringing the tocsin--things seem to be getting serious. 

Nine o'clock, P. M. --Continuation of firing without interruption. I havespent the day standing on the balcony, looking at the smoke, and listeningto the different rumours. Gomez Farias has been proclaimed president by hisparty. The streets near the square are said to be strewed with dead andwounded. There was a terrible thunderstorm this afternoon. Mingled with theroaring of the cannon, it sounded like a strife between heavenly andearthly artillery. We shall not pass a very easy night, especially withoutour soldiers. Unfortunately there is a bright moon, so night brings nointerruption to the firing and slaughter. 

16th. --Our first news was brought very early this morning by the wife ofone of our soldiers, who came in great despair, to tell us that both herhusband and his comrade are shot, though not killed--that they were amongstthe first who fell; and she came to entreat C---n to prevent their beingsent to the hospital. It is reported that Bustamante has escaped, and thathe fought his way, sword in hand, through the soldiers who guarded him inhis apartment. Almonte at all events is at the head of his troops. Theballs have entered many houses in the square. It must be terribly dangerousfor those who live there, and amongst others, for our friend Señor Tagle, Director of the Monte Pio, and his family. 

They have just brought the government bulletin, which gives the followingstatement of the circumstances:--"Yesterday, at midnight, Urrea, with ahandful of troops belonging to the garrison and its neighbourhood tookpossession of the National Palace, surprising the guard, and Committing the_incivility_ of imprisoning His Excellency the President, Don AnastasioBustamante, the commander-in-chief, the _Mayor de la Plaza_, and otherchiefs. Don Gabriel Valencia, chief of the _plana mayor_ (the staff), General Don Antonio Mozo, and the Minister of War, Don Juan NepomucenoAlmonte, re-united in the citadel, prepared to attack the _pronunciados_, who, arming the lowest populace, took possession of the towers of thecathedral, and of some of the highest edifices in the centre of the city. Although summoned to surrender, at two in the afternoon firing began, andcontinued till midnight, recommencing at five in the morning, and onlyceasing at intervals. The colonel of the sixth regiment, together with aconsiderable part of his corps, who were in the barracks of the palace, escaped and joined the government troops, who have taken the greatest partof the positions near the square and the palace. His Excellency thePresident, with a part of the troops which had _pronounced_ in the palace, made his escape on the morning of the sixteenth, putting himself at thehead of the troops who have remained faithful to their colours, and atnight published the following proclamation:"

"_The President of the Republic to the Mexican Nation. _

"Fellow-Citizens:--The seduction which has spread over a very small part ofthe people and garrison of this capital; the forgetfulness of honour andduty, have caused the defection of a few soldiers, whose misconduct up tothis hour has been thrown into confusion by the valiant behaviour of thegreatest part of the chiefs, officers, and soldiers, who have intrepidlyfollowed the example of the valiant general-in-chief of the _plana mayor_of the army. _The government was not ignorant of the machinations that werecarrying on; their authors were well known to it, and it foresaw that thegentleness and clemency which it had hitherto employed in order to disarmthem, would be corresponded to with ingratitude. _

"This line of policy has caused the nation to remain _headless (acéfala)_for some hours, and public tranquillity to be disturbed; but my libertybeing restored, the dissidents, convinced of the evils which have been andmay be caused by these tumults, depend upon a reconciliation for theirsecurity. The government will remember that they are misled men, belongingto the great Mexican family, but not for this will it forget how much theyhave forfeited their rights to respect; nor what is due to the great bulkof the nation. Public tranquillity will be restored in a few hours; thelaws will immediately recover their energy, and the government will seethem obeyed. 

"ANASTASIO BUSTAMANTE. "

"Mexico, July 16th, 1840. "

A roar of cannon from the Palace, which made the house shake and thewindows rattle, and caused me to throw a blot over the President's goodname, seems the answer to this proclamation. 

17th. --The state of things is very bad. Cannon planted all along thestreets, and soldiers firing indiscriminately on all who pass. Count C---aslightly wounded, and carried to his country-house at Tacubaya. TwoSpaniards have escaped from their house, into which the balls were pouring, and have taken refuge here. The E---- family have kept their house, whichis in the very centre of the affray, cannons planted before their door, andall their windows already smashed. Indeed, nearly all the houses in thatquarter are abandoned. We are living here like prisoners in a fortress. TheCountess del V---e, whose father was shot in a former revolution, had justrisen this morning, when a shell entered the wall close by the side of herbed, and burst in the mattress. 

As there are two sides to every story, listen to the proclamation of thechief of the rebels. 

"_Señor Valentin Gomez Farias to the Mexican People. _

"Fellow-Citizens:--We present to the civilized world two facts, which, while they will cover with eternal glory the Federal army and the heroicinhabitants of this capital, will hand down with execration and infamy, toall future generations, the name of General Bustamante; this man withoutfaith, breaking his solemnly-pledged word, after being put at liberty by anexcess of generosity; for having promised to take immediate steps to bringabout a negotiation of peace, upon the honourable basis which was proposedto him, he is now converted into the chief of an army, the enemy of theFederalists; and has beheld, with a serene countenance, this beautifulcapital destroyed, a multitude of families drowned in tears, and the deathof many citizens; not only of the combatants, but of those who have takenno part in the struggle. Amongst these must be counted an unfortunate woman_enceinte_, who was killed as she was passing the palace gates under thebelief that a parley having come from his camp, the firing would besuspended, as in fact it was on our side. This government, informed of themisfortune, sent for the husband of the deceased, and ordered twenty-fivedollars to be given him; but the unfortunate man, though plunged in grief, declared that twelve were sufficient to supply his wants. Such was thehorror inspired by the atrocious conduct of the ex-government ofBustamante, that this sentiment covered up and suffocated all the others. 

"Another fact, of which we shall with difficulty find an example inhistory, is the following. The day that the firing began, being in want ofsome implements of war, it was necessary to cause an iron case to beopened, belonging to Don Stanislaus Flores, in which he had a considerablesum of money in different coin, besides his most valuable effects. Thus, all that the government could do, was to make this known to the owner, Señor Flores, in order that he might send a person of confidence to takecharge of his interests, making known what was wanting, that he might beimmediately paid. The pertinacity of the firing prevented Señor Flores fromnaming a commissioner for four days, and then, although the case has beenopen, and no one has taken charge of it, the commissioner has made knownofficially that nothing is taken from it but the implements of war whichwere sent for. Glory in yourselves, Mexicans! The most polished nation ofthe earth, illustrious France, has not presented a similar fact. TheMexicans possess heroic virtues, which will raise them above all thenations in the world. This is the only ambition of your fellow-citizen, "VALENTIN GOMEZ FARIAS. 

"God, Liberty, and Federalism. 

"Mexico, July 17th, 1840. "

Besides this, a circular has been sent to all the governors and commandantsof the different departments, from the "Palace of the Federal ProvisionalGovernment, " to this effect:

"The Citizen José Urrea, with the greater part of the garrison of thecapital, and the whole population, pronounced early on the morning of thisday, for the re-establishment of the Federal system, adopting in theinterim the Constitution of 1824, whilst it is reformed by a Congress whichthey are about to convoke to that effect; and I, having been called, inorder that at this juncture I should put myself at the head of thegovernment, communicate it to your Excellency, informing you at the sametime, that the object of the Citizen Urrea, instead of re-establishing theFederal system, has been to re-unite all the Mexicans, by proclaimingtoleration of all opinions, and respect for the lives, properties, andinterests of all. 

"God, Liberty, and Federalism. 

"VALENTIN GOMEZ FARIAS. "

"National Palace of Mexico, 15th July, 1840. "

18th. --There is a great scarcity of provisions in the centre of the city, as the Indians, who bring in everything from the country, are stopped. Wehave laid in a good stock of _comestibles_, though it is very unlikely thatany difficulties will occur in our direction. While I am writing, thecannon are roaring almost without interruption, and the sound is anythingbut agreeable, though proving the respect entertained by Farias for "thelives, properties, and interests of all. " We see the smoke, but areentirely out of the reach of the fire. 

I had just written these words, when the Señora -----, who lives opposite, called out to me that a shell has just fallen in her garden, and that herhusband had but time to save himself. The cannon directed against thepalace kill people in their beds, in streets entirely out of thatdirection, while this ball, intended for the citadel, takes its flight toSan Cosme! Both parties seem to be _fighting the city_ instead of eachother; and this manner of firing from behind parapets, and from the tops ofhouses and steeples, is decidedly safer for the soldiers than for theinhabitants. It seems also a novel plan to keep up a continual cannonadingby night, and to rest during a great part of the day. One would think thatwere the guns brought nearer the palace, the affair would be sooner over. 

Late last night, a whole family came here for protection; theSeñora ----- with -----, nurse, and baby, etc. She had remained veryquietly in her own house, in spite of broken windows, till the bulletswhizzed past her baby's bed. This morning, everything remains as it was thefirst day--the president in the citadel, the rebels in the palace. Thegovernment are trying to hold out until troops arrive from Puebla. In aninterval of firing, the---Secretary contrived to make his way here thismorning. The English Minister's house is also filled with families, itbeing a little out of the line of fire. Those who live in the Square, andin the Calle San Francisco are most exposed, and the poor shopkeepers inthe _Parian_ are in a state of great and natural trepidation. I need notsay that the shops are all shut. 

19th. --Dr. Plan, a famous French physician, was shot this morning, as hewas coming out of the palace, and his body has just been carried past ourdoor into the house opposite. 

The Señorita ----- having imprudently stepped out on her balcony, her housebeing in a very exposed street, a pistol-ball entered her side, and passedthrough her body. She is still alive, but it seems impossible that she canrecover. The Prior of San Joaquin, riding by just now, stopped below thewindows to tell us that he fears we shall not remain long here in safety, as the pronunciados have attacked the Convent of La Concepción, at the endof the street. 

My writing must be very desultory. Impossible to fix one's attention onanything. We pass our time on the balconies, listening to the thunder ofthe cannon, looking at the different parties of troops riding by, receivingvisitors, who, in the intervals of the firing, venture out to bring us thelast reports--wondering, speculating, fearing, hoping, and excessivelytired of the whole affair. 

Gomez Farias, the prime mover of this revolution, is a distinguishedcharacter, one of the _notabilities_ of the country, and has alwaysmaintained the same principles, standing up for "rapid and radical reform. "He is a native of Guadalajara, and his literary career is said to have beenbrilliant. He is also said to be a man of an ardent imagination and greatenergy. His name has appeared in every public event. He first aided in thecause of Independence, then, when deputy for Zacatecas, showed much zeal infavour of Yturbide--was afterwards a warm partisan of the federalcause--contributed to the election of General Victoria; afterwards to thatof Pedraza--took an active part in the political changes of '33 and '34;detests the Spaniards, and during his presidency endeavoured to abolish theprivileges of the clergy and troops--suppressed monasticinstitutions--granted absolute liberty of opinion--abolished the lawsagainst the liberty of the press--created many literary institutions; andwhatever were his political errors, and the ruthlessness with which in thename of liberty and reform he marched to the attainment of his object, without respect for the most sacred things, he is generally allowed to be aman of integrity, and even by his enemies, an enthusiast, who deceiveshimself as much as others. Now in the hopes of obtaining some uncertain andvisionary good, and even while declaring his horror of civil war andbloodshed, he has risen in rebellion against the actual government, and isthe cause of the cruel war now raging, not in the open fields or even inthe scattered suburbs, but in the very heart of a populous city. 

This morning all manner of opinions are afloat. Some believe that SantaAnna has started from his retreat at Manga de Clavo, and will arriveto-day--will himself swallow the disputed oyster (the presidential chair), and give each of the combatants a shell apiece; some that a fresh supply oftroops for the government will arrive to-day, and others that the rebelsmust eventually triumph. Among the reports which I trust may be classed asdoubtful, is, that General Urrea has issued a proclamation, promising _three hours' pillage_ to all who join him. Then will be the time fortesting the virtues of all the diplomatic _drapeaux_. In the midst of all, here comes another. 

"_Address of His Excellency, Señor Don Valentin Gomez Farias, chargedprovisionally with the government of Mexico, and of the General-in-Chief ofthe Federal army, to the troops under his command_. "

"Companions in arms:--No one has ever resisted a people who fight for theirliberty and who defend their sacred rights. Your heroic endeavours havealready reduced _our unjust aggressors_ almost to complete nullity. Withoutinfantry to cover their parapets, without artillery to fire their pieces, without money, without credit, and without support, they already make theirlast useless efforts. On our side, on the contrary, all is in abundance_(sobra)_, men, arms, ammunition, and money, and above all, the invinciblesupport of opinion;--while the parties which adhere to our _pronunciamento_in all the cities out of the capital, and the assistance which within thisvery city is given by every class of society to those who are fighting forthe rights of the people, offer guarantees which they will strictly fulfilto all the inhabitants of the country, natives as well as foreigners. Ourenemies, in the delirium of their impotence, have had recourse to theirfavourite weapon, calumny. In a communication directed to us, they have hadthe audacity to accuse you of having attacked some property. Miserablewretches! No, the soldiers of the people are not robbers; the cause ofliberty is very noble, and its defence will not be stained by a degradingaction. This is the answer given to your calumniators by your chiefs, whoare as much interested in your reputation as in their own. Soldiers of thepeople! let valour, as well as all other civic virtues, shine in yourconduct, that you may never dim the renown of valiant soldiers and of goodcitizens. 

"Valentin Gomez Farias. "

"José Urrea. "

We hear that two shells have fallen into the house of Señor -----, who hasa pretty wife and a number of children, and that his azotea is occupied bythe federalist troops. Fortunately, these grenades burst in the _patio_ ofhis house, and no one was injured. The chief danger to those who are notactually engaged in this affair, is from these bullets and shells, whichcome rattling into all the houses. We have messages from various peoplewhom we invited to come here for safety, that they would gladly accept ouroffer, but are unwilling to leave their houses exposed to pillage, and donot dare to pass through the streets. So our numbers have not increased asyet. 

You may suppose, that although this is Sunday, there is no mass in thechurches. The Prior of San Fernando, who has just sent us round somecolossal cauliflowers and other fine vegetables from his garden, permits usto come to his convent for safety, should anything occur here, . . . I amafraid he would lodge the women-kind in some outhouse. 

I had written thus far, when we received a visit from the Baron de -----, ----- Minister, who, living in a very exposed situation, near the palace, requests us to receive his secretary of legation, M. De -----, who isdangerously ill of typhus fever, as the doctors, no doubt warned by thefate of poor Dr. Plan, fear to pass into that street which is blocked up bytroops and cannon. Some people fear a universal sacking of the city, especially in the event of the triumph of the federalist party. TheMinisters seem to have great confidence in their _flags_--but I cannot helpthinking that a party of armed _léperos_ would be no respecters of personsor privileges! As yet our position continues very safe. We have the Alamedabetween us and the troops; the palace, the square, and the principalstreets being on the other side of the Alameda; and this street, a branchof the great Calle de Tacuba, stretching out beyond it. I write more tooccupy my thoughts than in hopes of interesting you; for I am afraid thatyou will almost be tired of this _revolutionary_ letter. As a cleverMexican, the Marquis of -----, says--"Some years ago we gave forth cries(_gritos_)--that was in the infancy of our independence--now we begin to_pronounce_ (pronuncianos). Heaven knows when we shall be old enoughto speak plain, so that people may know what we mean!"

_Sunday Evening_. --Monsieur de ----- has arrived, and is not worse. We haveunexpectedly had twelve persons to dinner to-day. The news to-night is, that the government troops have arrived, and that a great attack will bemade by them to-morrow on the rebels in the palace, which will probablybring matters to a conclusion. Some of our guests are sitting up, andothers lying down on the sofa without undressing. I prefer beingcomfortable, so goodnight. 

20th. --We were astonished this morning at the general tranquillity, andconcluded that, instead of having attacked the rebels, the government washolding a parley with them, but a note from the English Minister informs usthat a skirmish has taken place between the two parties at one of the gatesof the city, in which the government party has triumphed. So far the newsis good. 

Our street has a most picturesque and lively appearance this morning. It iscrowded with Indians from the country, bringing in their fruit andvegetables for sale, and establishing a temporary market in front of thechurch of San Fernando. Innumerable carriages, drawn by mules, are passingalong, packed inside and out, full of families hurrying to the country withtheir children and moveables. Those who are poorer, are making their way onfoot--men and women carrying mattresses, and little children following withbaskets and bird-cages--carts are passing, loaded with chairs and tablesand beds, and all manner of old furniture, uprooted for the first time nodoubt since many years--all are taking advantage of this temporarycessation of firing to make their escape. Our stables are full of mules andhorses sent us by our friends in the centre of the city, where all suppliesof water are cut off. Another physician, a Spaniard, has just been shot!

Every room at San Cosme and in all the suburbs is taken. In some rooms arenumbers of people, obliged to sleep upon mats, too glad to have escaped thedanger to care for any inconvenience. A quantity of plate and money anddiamonds were sent here this morning, which we have been hiding indifferent parts of the house; but they say that in cases of pillage theplunderers always search the most _impossible_ places, pulling up theboards, brick floors, etc. , ripping up the mattresses, and so on; so Ibelieve there is no use in concealing anything. Near us lives a celebratedgeneral, on whose political opinions there seems much doubt, as he hasjoined neither party, and has become invisible ever since this affaircommenced. He is a showy, handsome man, with a good deal of superficialinstruction, and exceedingly vain of his personal advantages. I am quitesure that, having allowed him to be a fine-looking man, he would forgive mefor saying that his character is frivolous, and that his principles, bothmoral and political, are governed entirely by that which best suits his ownadvantage. 

The Count de B----, secretary to the French Legation, mounted his horselast evening, and, like a true young Frenchman, set off to pay a visit to apretty girl of his acquaintance, passing through the most dangerousstreets, and particularly conspicuous by his singular dress, good looks, and moustaches. He had not gone far before he was surrounded by some dozenof _léperos_ with knives, who would, no doubt, have robbed and despatchedhim, but that in tearing off his sarape they discovered his uniform, andnot being very skilled in military accoutrements, concluded him to be anofficer on the part of the government. They being on the federalist side, hurried with their prize to the palace, where he was thrown into prison, and obliged to remain until some of the officers came to see the prisoner, and recognized him, much to their astonishment. 

We are now going to dine with what appetite we may, which is generallypretty good. 

Ten o'clock, P. M. --We ventured out after dinner to take a turn in thedirection opposite the city, and met various parties of ladies, who, asthey cannot use their carriages at present, were thankful to escape fromtheir temporary and crowded dwellings, and were actually taking exercise onfoot; when we were encountered by people full of the intelligence that thegreat attack on the palace is to be made this evening, and were advised tohurry home. We were also assured that a party of _léperos_, headed by theirlong-bearded captain, an old robber of the name of Castro, had passed thenight before our door. Before we could reach home the firing began, and wehave passed several hours in a state of great suspense, amidst the roaringof the cannon, the shouting of the troops, the occasional cries of thosewho are wounded, and, to make everything appear more lugubrious, the mostawful storm of thunder and rain I almost ever heard. The Señora de -----'sbrother is a captain in the government service, and he and his regimenthave distinguished themselves very much during these last few days;consequently she is dreadfully uneasy to-night. 

The gentlemen seem inclined to pass the night in talking. We think of lyingdown, and sleeping if we can. I hope nothing will happen in the night, foreverything seems worse in the darkness and consequent confusion. 

21st. --After passing a sleepless night, listening to the roaring of cannon, and figuring to ourselves the devastation that must have taken place, wefind to our amusement that nothing decisive has occurred. The noise lastnight was mere skirmishing, and half the cannons were fired in the air. Inthe darkness there was no mark. But though the loss on either side is somuch less than might have been expected, the rebels in the palace cannot bevery comfortable, for they say that the air is infected by the number ofunburied dead bodies lying there; indeed there are many lying unburied onthe streets, which is enough to raise a fever, to add to the calamitousstate of things. 

The government bulletin of to-day expresses the regret of the suprememagistrate at seeing his hopes of restoring peace frustrated, and publishesthe assurances of fidelity which they have received from all thedepartments, especially from Puebla, Queretaro, and Vera Cruz, in spite ofthe extraordinary despatches which had there been received from Farias, desiring them to recognize Urrea as Minister of war, and Don ManuelCrecencio Rejon as Minister of the interior; "which communications, " saysthe commandant of Queretaro, "produced in my soul only indignation andcontempt towards their miserable authors. "

The account of the yesterday's affair is as follows. "The _pronunciados_ inthe palace, knowing that the infantry which was to come from Puebla to theassistance of the government, was expected to arrive yesterday, endeavouredto surprise it near the gate of Saint Lazarus, with a column of infantry oftwo hundred in number, and some cavalry; but the brave Colonel Torrejon, with eighty dragoons, beat them completely, killing, wounding, and takingmany prisoners, and pursuing them as far as the archbishop's palace. Thesupreme government, appreciating the distinguished services and brilliantconduct of the aforesaid colonel, have given him the rank of general ofbrigade. "

The president in to-day's proclamation, after declaring that "the beautifulcapital of the republic is the theatre of war, " says "that nothing butconsideration for the lives and properties of the inhabitants has been ableto restrain the enthusiasm of the soldiers of the nation, and to preventthem from putting forth their whole force to dislodge the rebels from thedifferent points of which they have possessed themselves. " The presidentadds, "that this revolt is the more inexcusable, as his administration hasalways been gentle and moderate; that he has economized the publictreasure, respected the laws, and that citizens of whatever opinion hadalways enjoyed perfect tranquillity under his rule--that constitutionalreforms were about being realized, as well as the hopes of forming by thema bond of union between all Mexicans. " He concludes by reproaching thoserevolutionary men who thus cause the shedding of so much innocent blood. 

The commander-in-chief, General Valencia, writing perhaps under someinspiring influence, is more figurative in his discourse. "Soldiers ofLiberty!" he exclaims; "Anarchy put out its head, and your arms drowned itin a moment. " This would have been a finer figure in the days of the greatlakes. And again he exclaims--"Mexicans! my heart feels itself wounded bythe deepest grief, and all humanity shudders in contemplating theunsoundable chaos of evils in which the authors of this rebellion have sunkthe incautious men whom they have seduced, in order to form with their deadbodies the bloody ladder which was to raise them to their aggrandizement!Already the Mexican people begin to gather the bitter fruits with whichthese men who blazon forth their humanity and philanthropy have alwaysallured them, feeding themselves on the blood of their brothers, andstriking up songs to the sad measure of sobs and weeping!" These tropes arevery striking. All is brought before us as in a picture. We see anarchyraising his rascally head above the water (most likely adorned with aliberty cap), and the brave soldiers instantly driving it down again. Webehold Gomez Farias and Urrea rushing up a ladder of dead bodies. And thenthe Lucrezia Borgia kind of scene that follows!--alluring their victimswith bitter fruit (perhaps with sour grapes), drinking blood, and singinghorridly out of tune to a running bass of sobs! The teeth of humanity areset on edge only by reading it. Well may his Excellency add--"I presentthem to the nations of the world as an inimitable model of ferocity andbarbarity!"

This morning General ----- sent a few lines from the citadel, where he andthe president are, in which he speaks with confidence of speedily puttingdown the rebels. C---n returned many affectionate messages, accompanied bya supply of cigars. They say that the greatest possible bravery is shown bythe boys of the Military College, who are very fine little fellows, and allup in arms on the side of the government. A strong instance of maternalaffection and courage was shown by the Señora G---- this morning. Havingreceived various reports concerning her son, who belongs to this college;first that he was wounded; then that the wound was severe; then that it wasslight--and being naturally extremely uneasy about him, she set off alone, and on foot, at five o'clock in the morning, without mentioning herintention to any one, carrying with her a basket of provisions; passedacross the square, and through all the streets planted with cannon, madeher way through all the troops into the citadel; had the satisfaction offinding her son in perfect health, and returned home, just as her husbandand family had become aware of her absence. 

General Valencia is said to have a large party amongst the soldiers, whoare in favour of his being named president. It is said that he was seenriding up and down in the lines in a most _spirited_ manner, and ratherunsteady in his saddle. Some rumours there are that Santa Anna has arrivedat Perote; but, as he travels in a litter, he cannot be here for some days, even should this be true. There seems no particular reason to believe thatthis will end soon, and we must remain shut up here as patiently as we can. In the intervals of firing the gentlemen go out, but they will not hear ofour doing so, except sometimes for a few minutes in the evening, and theneither firing or thunder sends us back. Various people, and especially theCountess C---a, have invited us to their country places; but, besides thatwe are in the safest part of the city, and have several guests, C---n doesnot think it right for him to leave Mexico. They say that house-rents willrise hereabouts, on account of the advantages of the _locale_ in cases ofthis sort. 

Amongst other announcements, the government have published, that the rebelshave demanded that the jewels, together with the service of gold and silverbelonging to the Holy Cathedral Church, shall be given up to them, andthreaten to seize the whole by force, should their demand not be acceded towithin two hours. "It is very probable that they will do so, " adds thebulletin; thus adding a new crime to all they have committed. 

It is now evening, and again they announce an attack upon the palace, but Ido not believe them, and listen to the cannon with tolerable tranquillity. All day families continue to pass by, leaving Mexico. The poor shopkeepersare to be pitied. Besides the total cessation of trade, one at least hasbeen shot, and others plundered. A truce of two hours was granted thisafternoon, to bury the dead, who were carried out of the palace. Two of ourcolleagues ventured here this morning. 

22nd. --The government bulletin of this morning contains a letter from SantaAnna, dated Mango de Clavo, 19th of July, informing the president, withevery expression of loyalty and attachment to the government, thataccording to his desire he will set off this morning in the direction ofPerote, "at the head of a respectable division. " Various other assurancesof fidelity from Victoria, from Galindo, etc. , are inserted, with theremark that the Mexican public will thus see the uniformity and decision ofthe whole republic in favour of order, and especially will receive in thecommunication of his Excellency, General Santa Anna, an equivocal proof ofthis unity of sentiment, notwithstanding the assurances given by the rebelsto the people, that Santa Anna would either assist them, or would take nopart at all in the affair. It must be confessed, however, that hisExcellency is rather a dangerous umpire. 

The Governor Vieyra published a proclamation to-day, declaring "Mexico in astate of siege. " It seems to me that we knew that already! Upon the whole, things are going on well for the government. Parties of _pronunciados_ havebeen put down in various places. The wounded on both sides have beencarried to the hospital of San Andrés. A battery is now planted against thepalace, in the Calle de Plateros, where they are at least near enough to domore execution than before. 

One circumstance worthy of notice has been published to-day. The rebels, asyou may recollect, declared that they had permitted the president to leavethe palace, on condition of his taking conciliatory measures, and that hehad agreed to favour their pretensions. Now here is Bustamante's ownletter, written in the palace, when surrounded by his enemies; a proof, ifany were wanting, of his exceeding personal bravery, and perfect coolnessin the midst of danger. There is something rather _Roman_ in these fewlines:

"Ministers, --I protest that I find myself without liberty and withoutdefence, the guards of the palace having abandoned me. Under thesecircumstances, let no order of mine, which is contrary to the duties of thepost I occupy, be obeyed. Since, although I am resolved to die beforefailing in my obligations, it will not be difficult to falsify mysignature. Let this be made known by you to the Congress, and to thosegenerals and chiefs who preserve sentiments of honour and fidelity. 

"National Palace, July 15th, 1840. 

"Anastasio Bustamante. "

The following propositions are made to the government by the rebels:

"Article 1st. It not having been the intention of the citizen José Urrea, and of the troops under his command, to attack in any way the person ofthe president of the republic, General Anastasio Bustamante, he is replacedin the exercise of his functions. 

"2nd. Using his faculties as president of the republic, he will cause thefiring to cease on the part of the troops opposed to the citizen Urrea; whoon his side will do the same. 

"3rd. The president shall organize a ministry deserving of publicconfidence, and shall promise to re-establish the observance of theconstitution of 1824, convoking a congress immediately, for the expresspurpose of reform. 

"4th. Upon these foundations, peace and order shall be re-established, andno one shall be molested for the opinions which he has manifested, or forthe principles he may have supported, all who are in prison for politicalopinions being set at liberty. "

Almonte, in the name of the president, rejected these conditions, butoffered to spare the lives of the pronunciados, in case they shouldsurrender within twenty-four hours. The chiefs of the opposite partyhereupon declared the door shut to all reconcilement, but requested asuspension of hostilities, which was granted. 

A---- is going to drive me out during this suspension, in an open cab, tocall on the C---a family. The -----s have left their house, their positionhaving become too dangerous. Another letter from General Almonte thismorning. Nothing decisive. The streets continue blocked up with cannon, theroofs of the houses, and churches are covered with troops, the shops remainclosed, and the streets deserted. People are paying ounces for the leastmorsel of room in the suburbs, on the San Cosme side of the city. 

23rd. --Yesterday the archbishop invited the chiefs of the pronunciados to aconference in his archiepiscopal palace, in order that he might endeavour, in his apostolical character, to check the effusion of blood. Theconference took place, and the rebels requested a suspension ofhostilities, whilst the prelate should communicate its results to thepresident, which was granted by the general-in-chief. But the_pronunciados_ broke the truce, and endeavoured to surprise the presidentand Almonte in the citadel, passing over the parapets in the _Calle deMonterilla_. They were repulsed with slaughter, and a fierce cannonadingwas kept up all night. They have now requested a parley, which is grantedthem. . . . 

In the midst of all, there is a communication from the Governor of Morelia, giving an account of the routing of a band of robbers who had attacked anhacienda. 

We went to Tacubaya, and met with no other danger but that of beingdrenched wet; as a daily watering of the earth, short, but severe, nowtakes place regularly. The new propositions of the _pronunciados_ arethese:

1st. "The forces of both armies shall retire to occupy places out of thecapital. 

2nd. "Both the belligerent parties shall agree that the constitutional lawsof 1836 shall remain without force. 

3rd. "A convention shall be convoked, establishing the new constitution, upon the basis fixed in the Constitutive Act, which will begin to be inforce directly. 

4th. "The elections of the members of the convention, will be verifiedaccording to the laws by which the deputies of the Constituent Congresswere directed. 

5th. "His actual Excellency, the President, will form a provisionalgovernment, he being the chief, until the foregoing articles begin to takeeffect. 

6th. "No one shall be molested for political opinions manifested since theyear '21 until now: consequently the persons, employments and properties ofall who have taken part in this or in the past revolutions shall berespected. 

7th. "That the first article may take effect, the government willfacilitate all that is necessary to both parties. "

The government have refused these second propositions; and at the same timemade known to the Mexican world that various deserters from the oppositeparty assure them, that the _pronunciados_, including the principal chiefs, are occupied in destroying everything within the palace--that the generalarchives and those of the Ministers are torn in pieces, and that thedespatches are taken to make cartouches, and so on. They end by accusingthem of being all united with the most noted robbers and public highwaymen, such as a _Ricardo Tea_, a _Jose Polvorilla_, a _Roman Chavez_, a _JuanVega_, a _Rosas_, a _Garcilazo_, and others. I put down the names of theseMexican Dick Turpins and Paul Cliffords, in case we should meet them some_beau jour_. 

More forces have arrived from Puebla and Toluca. Santa Anna is expected toreach Puebla to-night, and again General Valencia holds out an invitationto repentance to the "deceived men in the palace. "

25th. --A letter is published to-day from Santa Anna to General Victoria, assuring him that whatever personal considerations might have detained himin his country-seat, he accepts with pleasure the command of the divisiongoing to Perote, and will in this, as in all things, obey the orders of thesupreme government. Firing, with short intervals, continued all yesterday, during the night, and this morning. Two mortars are placed in front of theold _Acordada_, in the direction of the palace, but as yet they have notbeen used. There are a crowd of people examining them. 

Things remain nearly in the same position as before, except that there aremore deserters from the revolted party. A proclamation was issued by Urrea, accusing the government of all the evils that afflict the city, and of allthe bloodshed caused by this civil war. Amongst other things, they complainof the death of Dr. Plan, who was shot in the Calle de Seminario, and, according to them, by the government troops. General Valencia answers thistime without figures, and with good reason, that the responsibility ofthese misfortunes must be with those who have provoked the war. 

In the bulletin of to-day, the government praise their own moderation inhaving taken off the duties from all provisions entering the capital, inorder that the price might not become too high, an advantage in which the_pronunciados_ themselves participate--mention their exertions to supplythe city with water, and their permission given to the _pronunciados_ tosend their wounded to the hospital of San Andrés. They deny that thegovernment has any share in the evils that afflict the whole population, their endeavour having ever been to preserve tranquillity and order; "butwhen a handful of factious men have taken possession of part of the city, no choice is left them but to besiege and combat them until they surrender, and not to abandon the peaceful citizens to pillage and vengeance. " Theydeclare that they might already have subdued them, and are only held backby the fear of involving in their ruin the number of innocent persons whooccupy the circumjacent houses. The policy of this moderation seemsdoubtful, but the sincerity of the president is unimpeachable. Theycontinue to observe upon the absurdity of this handful of men pretending toimpose laws upon the whole republic, when already the body of the nationhave given unequivocal proofs that they have no desire that the questionsrelative to their political institutions should be decided by the force ofarms. 

While the _pronunciados_ declare on their side that "information of_pronunciamentos_ everywhere" has been received by them; the governmentremarks that eleven days have now elapsed, which has given full time forall the departments to declare themselves in favour of those who callthemselves their representatives; but on the contrary, nothing has beenreceived but assurances of fidelity, and of support to the governmentcause. I believe that the English packet will be detained till theconclusion of this affair, but should it not be so, you need not feel anyuneasiness in regard to us. Our house is full of people, money, jewels, andplate--our stables of horses and mules. Amongst the diamonds are those ofthe Señora L----, which are very fine, and there are gold rouleaus enoughto set up a bank at San Agustin. Santa Anna seems in no hurry to arrive. People expect him to-morrow, but perhaps he thinks the hour has not comefor him. 

26th. --The proclamation of the governor of the department of Jalisco ispublished to-day, in which he observes: "The nation cannot forget that thisUrrea, who has brought so many evils upon his country, this faithful friendof _Mr. Carlos Baudin_, and of the French squadron which invaded ourterritory, for whom he procured all the fresh provisions which theyrequired, is the same man who now escapes from prison, to figure at thehead of a tumultuous crowd, whose first steps were marked by the capture ofhis Excellency the President. " Firing continues, but without any decidedresult. It is a sound that one does not learn to hear with indifference. There seems little doubt that ultimately the government will gain the day, but the country will no doubt remain for some time in a melancholy state ofdisorder. Bills are fastened to-day on the corners of the streets, forbidding all ingress or egress through the military lines, from six inthe evening till eight in the morning. Gentlemen who live near us nowventure in towards evening, to talk politics or play at whist; butgenerally, in the middle of a game, some report is brought in, which drivesthem back to their houses and families with all possible haste. Señor-----, a young Spaniard who is living with us, returning here late lastnight, was challenged by the sentinels at the corner of the street, withthe usual "_Quien viva?_" to which, being in a brown study, he mechanicallyreplied, "_Spain!_" Fortunately, the officer on duty was a man of commonsense and humanity, and instead of firing, warned him to take better carefor the future. 

Last night the archbishop paid a visit to the president, in the convent ofSan Agustin, to intercede in favour of the _pronunciados_. The mortars havenot yet played against the palace, owing, it is said, to the desire of thegeneral-in-chief to avoid the further effusion of blood. 

The tranquillity of the sovereign people during all this period, isastonishing. In what other city in the world would they not have taken partwith one or other side? Shops shut, workmen out of employment, thousands ofidle people, subsisting, Heaven only knows how, yet no riot, no confusion, apparently no impatience. Groups of people collect on the streets, or standtalking before their doors, and speculate upon probabilities, but await thedecision of their military chiefs, as if it were a judgment from Heaven, from which it were both useless and impious to appeal. 

27th. --"Long live the Mexican Republic! Long live the Supreme Government!"Thus begins the government bulletin of to-day, to which I say Amen! withall my heart, since it ushers in the news of the termination of therevolution. And what particularly attracts my attention is, that instead ofthe usual stamp, the eagle, serpent, and nopal, we have to-day, a shaggypony, flying as never did mortal horse before, his tail and mane in a mostviolent state of excitement, his four short legs all in the air at once, and on his back a man in a jockey-cap, furiously blowing a trumpet, fromwhich issues a white flag, on which is printed "News!" _in English!_ andapparently in the act of springing over a milestone, on which is inscribed, also in English--"_100 to New York!_"

"We have, " says the government, "the grateful satisfaction of announcing, that the revolution of this capital has terminated happily. The rebellioustroops having offered, in the night, to lay down arms upon certainconditions, his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief, has accepted theirproposals with convenient modifications, which will be verified to-day; theempire of laws, order, tranquillity, and all other social guarantees beingthus re-established, " etc. Cuevas, Minister of the Interior, publishes acircular addressed to the governors of the departments to the same effect, adding, that "in consideration of the inhabitants and properties whichrequired the prompt termination of this disastrous revolution, theguarantees of personal safety solicited by the rebels have been granted, but none of their pretensions have been acceded to; the conspiracy of thefifteenth having thus had no other effect but to make manifest the generalwish and opinion in favour of the government, laws, and legitimateauthorities. " A similar circular is published by General Almonte. 

Having arrived at this satisfactory conclusion, which must be as agreeableto you as it is to us, I shall close this long letter, merely observing, inapology, that as Madame de Stael said, in answer to the remark, that "Womenhave nothing to do with politics;"--"That may be, but when a woman's headis about to be cut off, it is natural she should ask--_why_?" so it appearsto me, that when bullets are whizzing about our ears, and shells fallingwithin a few yards of us, it ought to be considered extremely natural, andquite feminine, to inquire into the cause of such _phenomena_. 

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH

Plan of the Federalists--Letter from Farias--Signing ofArticles--Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"--Conditions--Orders of GeneralValencia--Of the Governor--Address of General Valencia--Departure of ourGuests--The _Cosmopolite_--State of the Palace and Streets--Bulletin of theFiring--Interior of Houses--Escape of Families--Conduct of theTroops--Countess del V---e--Santa Anna--Congress--Anecdote--Discussion inCongress--Leprosy. 

28th July. 

To-day is published the plan which was formed by the federalists for the"political regeneration of the republic. " They observe, that it is sixyears since the federal plan, adopted freely by the nation in 1824, wasreplaced by a system which monopolizes all advantages in favour of a few;that evils had now arrived at that height, in which the endeavours of a fewmen, however illustrious, could have no effect in remedying them; renderingit necessary for all Mexicans to unite in one combined and energetic forceto better their situation; that salvation can only be hoped for from thenation itself, etc. They then proceed to lay their plan, consisting of tenarticles, before the public. 

The first restores the constitution of '24, the national interests to bereformed by a congress, composed of four deputies from each state. By thesecond, the reformed constitution is to be submitted to the legislatures ofthe states for approbation. By the third, they engage to respect theCatholic religion, the form of popular government, representative andfederal, the division of powers, political liberty of the press, theorganization of a military and naval force, and the equality of rightsbetween all the inhabitants of the nation. By the fourth article, aprovisional government is to be established in the capital, whose functionsare to be limited exclusively to the direction of the external relations ofthe republic. By the fifth, this provisional government is to be vested ina Mexican, reuniting the requisites for this employment, as established inthe constitution of '24. By the sixth, the republic promises to give backthe ten per cent, added to the duties of consumption, to those who havepaid it until now. By the seventh, in eight months after the triumph of thepresent revolution, all interior custom-houses are to be suppressed, andhenceforth no contributions shall be imposed upon the internal circulationof goods, whether foreign or domestic. By the eighth, they promise toconfirm all the civil and military employments of those who do not opposethis political regeneration. By the ninth, the army is to be paid withgreat punctuality. By the tenth, a general amnesty is promised to all whohave committed political errors since the Independence; and the names ofFarias and Urrea are followed by a goodly list of major-generals, colonels, etc. 

There is also published a letter from Farias, indignantly denying thereport of the federal party's having threatened to seize the cathedraljewels and plate; accompanied by one from the archbishop himself, not onlydenying the circumstances, but expressing his satisfaction with the conductof the federalist party in regard to all the convents which they hadoccupied, and the respect which they had shown towards all thing'spertaining to the church. 

On the night of the twenty-sixth, the articles of capitulation were signedon both sides; a letter from General Andrade having been received byGeneral Valencia, to the effect that as General Urrea had abandoned thecommand of the troops and left it in his hands, he, in the name of theother chiefs and officers, was ready to ratify the conditions stipulatedfor by them on the preceding night. This was at three in the morning; andabout eight o'clock, the capitulation was announced to the _pronunciados_in the different positions occupied by them; and they began to disperse indifferent directions, in groups of about a hundred, crying, "Vive laFederacion!" At a quarter before two o'clock, General Manuel Andrademarched out, with all the honours of war, to Tlanapantla, followed by the_pronunciados_ of the palace. 

This morning, at eleven, _Te Deum_, was sung in the cathedral, there beingpresent, the archbishop, the president, and all the authorities. The bells, which have preserved an ominous silence during these events, are nowringing forth in a confusion of tongues. The palace being crippled withballs, and in a state of utter confusion, the president and his Ministersoccupy cells in the convent of San Agustin. 

The Federalists have marched out upon the following conditions: 1st, Theirlives, persons, and employments, and properties are to be inviolablypreserved. 2nd, General Valencia engages to interpose his influence withthe government by all legal means, that they may request the chambers toproceed to reform the constitution. 3rd, All political events, which haveoccurred since the fifteenth, up to this date, are to be totally forgotten, the forces who adhered to the plan of the fifteenth being included in thisagreement. 4th, A passport out of the republic is to be given to whateverindividual, comprehended in this agreement, may solicit it. 5th, The troopsof the _pronunciados_ are to proceed to wherever General Valencia ordersthem, commanded by one of their own captains, whom he shall point out, andwho must answer for any disorders they may commit. 6th, General Valenciaand all the other generals of his army, must promise on their honour, before the whole world, to keep this treaty, and see to its exactaccomplishment. 7th, It only applies to Mexicans. 8th, Whenever it isratified by the chiefs of both parties, it is to be punctually fulfilled, hostilities being suspended until six in the morning of the twenty-seventh, which gives time to ratify the conditions. 

The president may exclaim, "One such victory more, and I am undone!" Ordersare issued by General Valencia to the effect, that until the Federalisttroops have marched out of the city, no group passing five in number willbe permitted in the streets; that until then, there is to be no tradingthrough the streets; that at three o'clock the eating-houses may be thrownopen, but not the taverns till the next day; and that the police andalcaldes of the different wards are held responsible for the accomplishmentof these orders, and may make use of armed force to preserve order. 

The governor enforces these orders with additions. People must turn in atnine o'clock, or give an account of themselves--must give up all theirguns, carbines, etc. , to the alcalde, under a heavy penalty; and none, excepting military men, may go on horseback from five in the evening untilsix in the morning, during five days. 

General Valencia makes a pathetic address to his soldiers, and foretellsthat henceforth all mothers, wives, and old men, will point them out asthey pass, saying, "There go our deliverers!" and adds--"I grow proud inspeaking to you. " "Inhabitants of this beautiful capital!" he says again, "the aurora of the 15th of July was very different from that of the 27th;_that_ prognosticated destruction, _this_ rises announcing happiness. _Never again will you hear the crash of cannon but to celebrate thetriumphs of your country, or to solemnize your civic functions. "_ May yourwords be prophetic, and especially may you yourself assist in theiraccomplishment. 

29th. --Our guests have left us, all but Monsieur -----, who, althoughrecovered, cannot yet be moved. All money, plate, and jewels in our charge, are restored to their rightful owners; and the Spanish colours, which havenever been hoisted, return to their former obscurity. I reopen the piano, uncover and tune the harp, and as we have been most entirely shut up duringthirteen days of heavenly weather, feel rejoiced at the prospect of gettingout again. As yet, I have not seen the state of things in the city, but the"Cosmopolite" of to-day says--"I should wish to have the pen of Jeremiah, to describe the desolation and calamities of this city, which has been themistress of the new world. In the days of mourning that have passed, wehave not been able to fix our eyes on any part of it where we have notencountered desolation, weeping, and death. The palace has become a_sieve_, and the southern bulwark is destroyed; that part of the _portal_which looks towards the _Monterilla_ is ruined; the finest buildings in thecentre have suffered a great deal; innumerable houses at great distancesfrom it have been also much injured by stray balls. Persons of all ages, classes, and conditions, who interfered in nothing, have been killed, notonly in the streets, but even in their own apartments. The balls crossedeach other in every direction, and the risk has been universal. The cityhas been in the dark during these days, without patrol or watch; and manymalefactors have taken advantage of this opportunity to use the murderousponiard without risk, and with the utmost perfidy. At the break of dayhorrible spectacles were seen, of groups of dogs disputing the remains of aman, a woman, and a child. " The "Cosmopolite" goes on to insist upon thenecessity of forming a new ministry and of a reform in the two houses. 

August 1st. --Have just come in from a drive through the city. The palaceand houses near it are certainly in a melancholy condition. The palace, with its innumerable smashed windows and battered walls, looks as if it hadbecome stone blind in consequence of having the smallpox. Broken windowsand walls full of holes characterize all the streets in that direction, yetthere is less real damage done than might have been expected, after such afurious firing and cannonading. 

To read the accounts published, and of the truth of which we had auriculardemonstration, one would have expected to find half the city in ruins. Hereis the sum total of the firing, as published:--"On the 15th, firing fromtwo o'clock till the next day. On the 16th, continual firing till oneo'clock. Suspension till four o'clock. Firing from that hour, withoutintermission, till the following day. 17th, firing from morning till night. 18th, firing from before daybreak till the evening. 19th, continual firing. Constant emigration of families these last four days. 20th, continualfiring all day. Skirmish at the gate of San Lazaro. 21st, firing continued, though less hotly, but in the night with more vigour than ever. 22nd, dayof the Junta in the archbishop's palace. Firing began at eleven at night, and lasted till morning. 23rd, firing till midday. Parley. 24th, formidablefiring, terrible attack, and firing till morning. 25th, firing till theevening. 26th, firing from six in the morning till two o'clock. Capitulation that night. "

As "every bullet has its billet, " they must all have lodged somewhere. Ofcourse, nothing else is talked of as yet, and every one has his ownpersonal experiences to recount. Some houses have become nearlyuninhabitable--glass, pictures, clocks, plaster, all lying in morsels aboutthe floor, and air-holes in the roofs and walls, through which these wingedmessengers of destruction have passed. Ladies and children escaped, in manyinstances, by the azoteas, going along the street from one roof to another, not being able to pass where the cannon was planted. The Señora -----, withher six beautiful boys, escaped in that way to her brother's house, in theevening, and in the very thick of the firing. I was in her drawing-roomto-day, which has a most forlorn appearance; the floor covered with heapsof plaster, broken pictures, bullets, broken glass, etc. , the windows out, and holes in the wall that look as if they were made for the pipe of astove to fit into. 

The soldiers of both parties, who have occupied the roofs of the houses, behaved with great civility; their officers, on many occasions, sending tothe family with a request that they would complain of any insolence thatmight be shown by their men. But no civility could ensure the safety of thedwellers in these houses. 

The poor nuns have been terribly frightened, and have passed these stormynights in prayers and hymns, which those who live near their convents saywere frequently heard at midnight, in the intervals of firing. 

I went to see the Countess de V---e, and she showed me the great hole inthe wall by her bedside, through which the shell made its _entrée_. Thefragments are still lying there, so heavy that I could not lift them. Allthe windows at the head of that street are broken in pieces. The shops arereopened, however, and people are going about their usual avocations, pretty much as if nothing had happened; and probably the whole result ofall this confusion and destruction will be--a change of ministry. 

Santa Anna, finding that he was not wanted, has modestly retired to Mangade Clavo, and has addressed the following letter to the Minister of War:

"The triumph which the national arms have just obtained over the horribleattempts at anarchy, communicated to me by your Excellency, in your note ofthe 27th, is very worthy of being celebrated by every citizen who desiresthe welfare of his country, always supposing that public vengeance (_lavindicta pública_) has been satisfied; and in this case, I offer you athousand congratulations. This division, although filled with regret at nothaving participated on this occasion in the risks of our companions inarms, are rejoiced at so fortunate an event, and hope that energy and awholesome severity will now strengthen order for ever, and will begin anera of felicity for the country. The happy event has been celebrated here, in the fortress, and in Tepeyahualco, where the first brigade had alreadyarrived (and whom I have ordered to countermarch), with every demonstrationof joy. I anxiously desire to receive the details which your Excellencyoffers to communicate to me, so that if the danger has entirely ceased, Imay return to my _hacienda_, and may lay down the command of those troopswhich your Excellency orders me to preserve here. 

"With sentiments of the most lively joy for the cessation of themisfortunes of the capital, I reiterate to your Excellency those of myparticular esteem. 

"God and Liberty. 

"ANTONIO LOPEZ DE SANTA ANNA. 

"Perote, July 29, 1840. "

The houses of Congress are again opened. The Ministers presented themselvesin the Chamber of Deputies, and a short account of the late revolution wasgiven by General Almonte, who, by the way, was never taken prisoner, as wasat first reported. He had gone out to ride early in the morning, whenGeneral Urrea, with some soldiers, rode up to him and demanded his sword;telling him that the president was arrested. For all answer, Almonte drewhis sword, and fighting his way through them, galloped to the citadel. Urrea, riding back, passed by Almonte's house, and politely taking off hishat, saluted the ladies of the family, hoped they were well, and remarkedon the fineness of the weather. They were not a little astonished when, ashort time after, they heard what had happened. 

Madame de C---- and her daughter were out riding when the firing began onthe morning of the revolution, and galloped home in consternation. 

7th. --A long discussion to-day in Congress on the propriety of grantingextraordinary powers to the president; also a publication of the despatcheswritten by Gomez Farias during the revolution. He speaks with the utmostconfidence of the success of his enterprise. In his first letter, heobserves, that General Urrea, with the greater part of the garrison andpeople of the capital, have pronounced for the re-establishment of thefederal system, and have, by the most fortunate combination ofcircumstances, got possession of the palace, and arrested the president. That troops have been passing over to them all day, and that the triumph ofthe federalists is so sure, he has little doubt that the following morningwill see tranquillity and federalism re-established. The different accountsof the two parties are rather amusing. It is said that Gomez Farias isconcealed in Mexico. . . . 

8th. --Paid a visit to-day, where the lady of the house is a leper; thoughit is supposed that all who are afflicted with this scourge are sent to thehospital of San Lazaro. . . . 

We rode before breakfast this morning to the old church of _La Piedad_, and, on our return, found a packet containing letters from London, Paris, New York, and Madrid. The arrival of the English packet, which brings allthese _nouveautes_, is about the most interesting event that occurs here. 

LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH

Visitors--Virgen de los Remedios--_Encarnación_--Fears of the Nuns--SantaTeresa--Rainy Season--Amusing Scene--"_Esta a la Disposocicion de V. _" --Mexican Sincerity--Texian Vessels--Fine Hair--Schoolmistress--Climate--ItsEffects--Nerves--_Tours de Force_--Anniversary--Speech--Paseo--San Angelo--Tacubaya--Army of "The Three Guarantees"--Plan of Yguala--A Murder--Indian Politeness--Drunkeness--Señor Canedo--Revolutions in Mexico--ThePenon--The Baths--General----Situation and View--Indian Family--Of theBoiling Springs--Capabilities--Solitude--Chapultepec--The _Desagravios_--Penitence at San Francisco--Discipline of the Men--Discourse of the Monk--Darkness and Horrors--Salmagundi. 

August 30th

In the political world nothing very interesting has occurred and as yetthere is no change of ministry. Yesterday morning C---n set off in acoach-and-six for the valley of Toluca, about eighteen leagues from Mexico, with a rich Spaniard, Señor M---r y T---n, who has a large hacienda there. 

Last Sunday morning, being the first Sunday since the revolution, we hadforty visitors--ladies and gentlemen, English, French, Spanish, andMexican. Such varieties of dresses and languages I have seldom seen unitedin one room; and so many anecdotes connected with the _pronunciamento_ aswere related, some grave, some ludicrous, that would form a volume! TheBaron de ----- having just left this for your part of the world, you willlearn by him the last intelligence of it and of us. 

As there is a want of rain, the Virgen de los Remedios was brought intoMexico, but as there is still a slight ripple on the face of thelately-troubled waters, she was carried in privately--for all reunions ofpeople are dreaded at this juncture, I had just prepared pieces of velvetand silk to hang on the balconies, when I found that the procession hadgone by a back street after sunset. 

I went lately to visit the nuns of the _Encarnación_, to inquire how theystood their alarms, for their convent had been filled with soldiers, andthey had been in the very heart of the firing. I was welcomed by a figurecovered from head to foot with a double black crape veil, who expressedgreat joy at _seeing_ me again, and told me she was one of the madres whoreceived us before. She spoke with horror of the late revolution, and ofthe state of fear and trembling in which they had passed their time;soldiers within their very walls, and their prayers interrupted by volleysof cannon. Thanks to the intercession of the Virgin, no accident hadoccurred; but she added, that had the Virgin of los Remedios been broughtin sooner, these disorders might never have taken place. 

I went from thence to the convent of Santa Teresa, where I saw no one, butdiscoursed with a number of _voices_, from the shrill treble of the old_Madre Priora_, to the full cheerful tones of my friend the Madre A----. There is something rather awful in sending one's voice in this way into anunknown region, and then listening for a response from the unseen dwellersthere. I have not yet been inside this convent, but now that affairs aresettled for the present, I trust that the archbishop will kindly grant hispermission to that effect. 

The rainy season is now at its height; that is, it rains severely everyevening, but in the morning it is lovely. The disagreeable part of it is, that the roads are so bad, it is difficult to continue our rides in theenvirons. Horse and rider, after one of these expeditions, appear to havebeen taking a mud-bath. It is very amusing to stand at the window aboutfour o'clock, and see every one suddenly caught in the most tremendousshower. In five minutes the streets become rivers; and canoes would berather more useful than carriages. Strong porters (_cargadores_) are inreadiness to carry well-dressed gentlemen or women who are caught in thedeluge, across the streets. Coachmen and footmen have their great-coatsprepared to draw on; and all horsemen have their sarapes strapped behindtheir saddles, in which, with their shining leather hats, they can bravethe storm. Trusting to an occasional cessation of rain, which sometimestakes place, people continue to go out in the evening, but it is downrightcruelty to coachmen and animals, unless the visit is to a house with a_porte-cochère_, which many of the houses have--this amongst others. 

September 1st. --Had a dispute this morning with an Englishman, whocomplains bitterly of Mexican insincerity. I believe the chief cause ofthis complaint amongst foreigners consists in their attaching the slightestvalue to the common phrase, "_Está a la disposición de V. _" Everything isplaced at your disposal--house, carriage, servants, horses, mules, etc. --the lady's earrings, the gentleman's diamond pin, the child's frock. You admire a ring--it is perfectly at your service; a horse--ditto. Lettersare dated "from your house;" (_de la casa de V. _) Some from ignorance ofthe custom, and others from knavery, take advantage of these offers, whichare mere expressions of civility, much to the confusion and astonishment ofthe polite _offerer_, who has no more intention of being credited, than youhave when, from common etiquette, you sign yourself the very humble servantof the very greatest bore. It is a mere habit, and to call people whoindulge in it insincere, reminds me of the Italian mentioned somewhere byLady Blessington, who thought he had made a conquest of a fairEnglishwoman, though somewhat shocked by her forwardness, because, in anindifferent note to him, she signed herself "_Truly yours_. " Shall I everforget the crestfallen countenance of a Mexican gentleman who had justpurchased a very handsome set of London harness, when hearing it admired bya Frenchman, he gave the customary answer, "It is quite at your disposal, "and was answered by a profusion of bows, and a ready acceptance of theoffer! the only difficulty with the Frenchman being as to whether or not hecould carry it home under his cloak, which he did. 

If all these offers of service, in which it is Mexican etiquette toindulge, be believed in--"Remember that I am here but to serve you"--"Myhouse and everything in it is quite at your disposal"--"Command me in allthings;" we shall of course be disappointed by finding that, notwithstanding these reiterated assurances, we must hire a house forourselves, and even servants to wait on us; but take these expressions atwhat they are worth, and I believe we shall find that people here are aboutas sincere as their neighbours. 

8th. --A good deal of surmise, because four Texian vessels are cruising inthe bay off Vera Cruz. There is also a good deal of political talk, but Ihave no longer Madame de Stael's excuse for interfering in politics, which, by the way, is a subject on which almost all Mexican women are wellinformed; possessing practical knowledge, the best of all, like a lesson ingeography given by travelling. I fear we live in a Paradise Lost, whichwill not be regained in our day. . . . 

My attention is attracted, while I write, by the apparition of a beautifulgirl in the opposite balcony, with hair of a golden brown hanging in massesdown to her feet. This is an uncommon colour here; but the hair of thewomen is generally very long and fine. It rarely or never curls. We wereamused the other day in passing by a school of little boys and girls, keptin a room on the first- floor of Señor -----'s house, to see theschoolmistress, certainly not in a very elegant _dishabille_, marching upand down with a spelling-book in her hand, her long hair hanging down, andtrailing on the floor a good half-yard behind her; while every time sheturned, she switched it round like a court-train. . . . 

You ask me about this climate, for -----. For one who, like her, is inperfect health, I should think it excellent; and even an invalid has onlyto travel a few hours, and he arrives at _tierra caliente_. This climate isthat of the tropics, raised some thousand feet above the level of the sea;consequently there is an extreme purity and thinness of the atmosphere, which generally affects the breathing at first. In some it causes anoppression on the chest. On me, it had little effect, if any; and at allevents, the feeling goes off, after the first month or so. There is ageneral tendency to nervous irritation, and to inflammatory complaints, andduring September and October, on account of the heavy rains and the drainedlakes on which part of the city is built, there is said to be a good dealof ague. Since the time of the cholera in 1833, which committed terribleravages here, there has been no other epidemic. The smallpox indeed hasbeen very common lately, but it is owing to the carelessness of the commonpeople, or rather to their prejudice against having their childrenvaccinated. 

The nervous complaints of the ladies are an unfailing source of profit tothe sons of Galen, for they seem to be incurable. Having no personalexperience in these evils, I speak only from what I see in others. Itappears to me that the only fault of the climate consists in its beingmonotonously perfect, which is a great drawback to easy and politeconversation. The evening deluge is but a periodical watering of the earth, from which it rises like Venus from the sea, more lovely and refreshed thanever. 

C---n has returned from Toluca, after an absence of eight days. Every oneis hurrying to the theatre just now, in spite of the rain, to see someSpaniards, who are performing _tours de force_ there. 

16th. --Celebration of the Day of Independence, Anniversary of the"_Glorioso Grito de Dolores_, " of September the 16th, 1810; of therevolution begun thirty years ago, by the curate of the village of Doloresin the province of Gunanajuato. "It is very easy, " says Zavala, it is aboutthe most sensible remark, "to put a country into combustion, when itpossesses the elements of discord; but the difficulties of its re-organization are infinite. "

A speech was made by General Tornel in the Alameda. All the troops wereout--plenty of officers, monks, priests, and ladies, in full dress. We didnot go to hear the speech, but went to the E----'s house to see theprocession, which was very magnificent. The line of carriages was so deep, that I thought we should never arrive. After all was over, we walked in theAlameda, where temporary booths were erected, and the trees were hung withgarlands and flowers. The paseo in the evening was extremely gay; but Icannot say that there appeared to be much enthusiasm or public spirit. Theysay that the great difficulty experienced by the _Junta_, named on theseoccasions for the preparation of these festivities, is to collectsufficient funds. 

19th. --We went yesterday to San Angelo, one of the prettiest villages inthe environs of Mexico, and spent the day at the hacienda of Señor T---e, which is in the neighbourhood. The rain has rendered the roads almostimpassible, and the country round Mexico must be more like Cortes'sdescription of it at this season, than at any other period. One part of theroad near the hacienda, which is entirely destroyed, the owner of the housewished to repair; but the Indians, who claim that part of the land, willnot permit the innovation, though he offered to throw a bridge over a smallstream which passes there, at his own expense. 

24th. --We passed a pleasant day at Tacubaya, and dined with Monsieur S----, who gave a fête in consequence of its being his wife's saint's day. 

27th. --Great fête; being the anniversary of the day on which the armycalled the _trigarante_ (the three guarantees) entered Mexico with Yturbideat their head. The famous plan of Iguala, (so called from having been firstpublished in that city, ) was also called the plan of the three guarantees;freedom, union, and religion, which were offered as a security to theSpaniards, against whom so many cruelties had been exercised. We have hadringing of bells and firing all the morning, and in the evening there is tobe a bull-fight, followed by the exhibition of the _tours de force_ ofthese Spaniards, commonly called here "_los Hercules_, " who have just cometo offer us a box in the Plaza. 

This plan of the Iguala was certainly the only means by which Spain couldhave continued to preserve these vast and distant possessions. The treatyof Cordova, which confirmed it, was signed in that city between the SpanishGeneral O'Donoju and Don Agustin Yturbide, in August 1821, and consisted ofseventeen articles. 

By the first, Mexico was to be acknowledged as a free and independentnation, under the title of the Mexican empire. 

By the second, its government was to be a constitutional monarchy. 

By the third, Ferdinand VII, Catholic King of Spain, was called to thethrone of Mexico; and should he renounce or refuse the throne, it wasoffered to his brother the Infant Don Carlos, and under the samecircumstances, to each brother in succession. 

By the fourth, the emperor was to fix his court in Mexico, which was to beconsidered the capital of the empire. 

By the fifth, two commissioners named by O'Donoju were to pass over to theSpanish court, to place the copy of the treaty and of the accompanyingexposition in his majesty's hands, to serve him as an antecedent, until theCortes should offer him the crown with all formality; requesting him toinform the Infantes of the order in which they were named; interposing hisinfluence in order that the Emperor of Mexico should be one of his augusthouse, for the interest of both nations, and that the Mexicans might addthis link to the chain of friendship which united them with the Spaniards. 

By the sixth, a _Junta_ of the first men in Mexico; first by their virtues, position, fortune, etc. , was to be named, sufficient in number to ensuresuccess in their resolutions by the union of so much talent andinformation. 

By the seventh, this Junta takes the name of the Administrative ProvincialJunta. 

By the eighth, O'Donoju was named member of this Junta. 

By the ninth, this Junta was to name a president. 

By the tenth, it was to inform the public of its installation, and of themotives which had caused it to meet. 

By the eleventh, this assembly was to name a regency, composed of threepersons, to compose the executive power, and to govern in the name of themonarch, until his arrival. 

By the twelfth, the Junta was then to govern conformably to the laws, ineverything which did not oppose the plan of Iguala, and till the Cortes hadformed the constitution of the state. 

By the thirteenth, the regency, as soon as they were named, were to proceedto the convocation of the Cortes, according to the method decreed by theprovisional Junta. 

By the fourteenth, the executive power was to reside in the regency--thelegislative in the Cortes--but until the reunion of the Cortes, thelegislative power was to be exercised by the Junta. 

By the fifteenth, all persons belonging to the community, the system ofgovernment being changed, or the country passing into the power of anotherprince, were perfectly at liberty to transport themselves and theirfortunes wherever they chose, etc. , etc. 

By the sixteenth, this does not hold good in regard to the military orpublic _employés_ disaffected to the Mexican independence; they will leavethe empire within the term prescribed by the regency, etc. , etc. 

By the seventeenth and last, as the occupation of the capital by thepeninsula troops is an obstacle to the realization of the treaty, thisdifficulty must be vanquished; but as the chief of the imperial armydesires to bring this about, not by force, but by gentler means, GeneralO'Donoju offers to employ his authority with the troops, that they mayleave the capital without any effusion of blood, and by an honourabletreaty. This treaty was signed by Yturbide and O'Donoju. 

Had this plan of Iguala taken effect, what would have been the result inMexico?--what its present condition?. . . 

This being Sunday, and a fête-day, a man was murdered close by our door, ina quarrel brought about probably through the influence of pulque, or ratherof _chinguirite_. If they did not so often end in deadly quarrel, therewould be nothing so amusing as to watch the Indians gradually becoming alittle intoxicated. They are at first so polite--handing the pulque-jar totheir fair companions (fair being taken in the general or _Pickwickian_sense of the word); always taking off their hats to each other, and if theymeet a woman, kissing her hand with an humble bow as if she were aduchess;--but these same women are sure to be the cause of a quarrel, and then out come these horrible knives--and then, _Adios!_

It is impossible to conceive anything more humble and polite than thecommon country-people. Men and women stop and wish you a good day, the men holding their hats in their hands, and all showing their whiteteeth, and faces lighted up by careless good-nature. I regret to state, however, that to-day there are a great many women quite as tipsy as themen, returning home after the fête, and increasing the distance to theirvillage, by taking a zigzag direction through the streets. . . . 

Señor Canedo, Secretary of State, has formally announced his intention ofresigning. Certainly the situation of premier in Mexico, at this moment, isfar from enviable, and the more distinguished and clear-headed theindividual, the more plainly he perceives the impossibility of remedyingthe thickly-gathering evils which crowd the political horizon. "Revolution, " says Señor de -----, "has followed revolution since theIndependence; no stable government has yet been established. Had itbeen so, Mexico would have offered to our eyes a phenomenon unknownuntil now in the world--that of a people, without previous preparation, passing at once to govern themselves by democratical institutions. "

28th. --We drove out to the _Peñon_, a natural boiling fountain, where thereare baths, which are considered a universal remedy, a pool of Bethesda, butan especial one for rheumatic complaints. The baths are a square of lowstone buildings, with a church--each building containing five or six emptyrooms, in one of which is a square bath. The idea seems to have been toform a sort of dwelling-house for different families, as each bath has asmall kitchen attached to it. Like most _great ideas_ of Spanish days, itis now in a state of perfect desolation, though people still flock therefor various complaints. When one goes there to bathe, it is necessary tocarry a mattress, to lie down on when you leave the bath, linen, a bottleof cold water, of which there is not a drop in the place, and which isparticularly necessary for an invalid in case of faintness--in shorteverything that you may require. A poor family live there to take charge ofthe baths, and there is a small tavern where they sell spirits and pulque;and occasionally a padre comes on Sunday to say mass in the old church. 

We were amused by meeting there with General ----- and his family, who hadbrought with them a whole coachload of provisions, besides mattresses, sheets, etc. The road to the Peñon crosses the most dreary plainimaginable. Behind the baths are two volcanic hills; and the view of Mexicoand of the great volcanoes from this is magnificent. It is the mostsolitary of buildings; not a tree to be seen in its environs; thesevolcanic rocks behind--Mexico fronting it--the great lakes near it--to theright Guadalupe--to the left San Angel, San Agustin, and the mountainswhich bound the valley. The Indian family who live there are handsomesavages; and the girl who attended me at the bath spoke an extraordinaryjargon, half Spanish, half Indian, but was a fine specimen of savage goodlooks. The water is extremely warm, and my curiosity to try its temperaturewas very soon satisfied. 

These boiling springs are said to contain sulphate of lime, carbonic acid, and muriate of soda, and the Indians make salt in their neighbourhood, precisely as they did in the time of Montezuma, with the difference, asHumboldt informs us, that then they used vessels of clay, and now they usecopper caldrons. The solitary-looking baths are ornamented with odd-lookingheads of cats or monkeys, which grin down upon you with a mixture of thesinister and facetious rather appalling. 

The Señora de ----- insisted on my partaking of her excellent luncheonafter the bath. We could not help thinking, were these baths in the handsof some enterprising and speculative Yankee, what a fortune he would make;how he would build an hotel _á la_ Sarratoga, would paper the rooms, andotherwise beautify this uncouth temple of boiling water. 

There is an indescribable feeling of solitude in all houses in the environsof Mexico, a vastness, a desolation, such as I never before experienced inthe most lonely dwellings in other countries. It is not sad--the sky is toobright, and nature too smiling, and the air we inhale too pure for that. Itis a sensation of being entirely out of the world, and alone with a giantnature, surrounded by faint traditions of a bygone race; and the feeling isnot diminished, when the silence is broken by the footstep of the passingIndian, the poor and debased descendant of that extraordinary andmysterious people, who came, we know not whence, and whose posterity arenow "hewers of wood and drawers of water, " on the soil where they once weremonarchs. 

In Chapultepec especially, near as it is to a large and populous city, thetraditions of the past come so strongly upon the mind, that one wouldrather look for the apparition of a whole band of these inky-hairedadder-anointed priests of Montezuma, than expect to meet with thebenevolent-looking archbishop, who, in purple robes, occasionally walksunder the shade of the majestic cypresses. 

All Mexicans at present, men and women, are engaged in what are called the_desagravios_, a public penance performed at this season in the churches, during thirty-five days. The women attend church in the morning, no menbeing permitted to enter, and the men in the evening, when women are notadmitted. Both rules are occasionally broken. The penitence of the men ismost severe, their sins being no doubt proportionably greater than those ofthe women; though it is one of the few countries where they suffer forthis, or seem to act upon the principle, that "if all men had theirdeserts, who should escape whipping?"

To-day we attended the morning penitence at six o'clock, in the church ofSan Francisco; the hardest part of which was their having to kneel forabout ten minutes with their arms extended in the form of a cross, utteringgroans; a most painful position for any length of time. It is a profanethought, but I dare say so many hundreds of beautifully-formed arms andhands were seldom seen extended at the same moment before. Gloves not beingworn in church, and many of the women having short sleeves, they were verymuch seen. 

But the other night I was present at a much stranger scene, at thediscipline performed by the men; admission having been procured for us, bycertain means, _private but powerful_. Accordingly, when it was dark, enveloped from head to foot in large cloaks, and without the slightest ideaof what it was, we went on foot through the streets to the church of SanAgustin. When we arrived, a small side-door apparently opened of itself, and we entered, passing through long vaulted passages, and up steep windingstairs, till we found ourselves in a small railed gallery, looking downdirectly upon the church. The scene was curious. About one hundred andfifty men, enveloped in cloaks and sarapes, their faces entirely concealed, were assembled in the body of the church. A monk had just mounted thepulpit, and the church was dimly lighted, except where he stood in boldrelief, with his gray robes and cowl thrown back, giving a full view of hishigh bald forehead and expressive face. 

His discourse was a rude but very forcible and eloquent description of thetorments prepared in hell for impenitent sinners. The effect of the wholewas very solemn. It appeared like a preparation for the execution of amultitude of condemned criminals. When the discourse was finished, they alljoined in prayer with much fervour and enthusiasm, beating their breastsand falling upon their faces. Then the monk stood up, and in a verydistinct voice, read several passages of scripture descriptive of thesufferings of Christ. The organ then struck up the _Miserere, _ and all of asudden the church was plunged in profound darkness; all but a sculpturedrepresentation of the Crucifixion, which seemed to hang in the airilluminated. I felt rather frightened, and would have been very glad toleave the church, but it would have been impossible in the darkness. Suddenly, a terrible voice in the dark cried, "My brothers! when Christ wasfastened to the pillar by the Jews, he was _scourged!_" At these words, thebright figure disappeared, and the darkness became total. Suddenly, weheard the sound of hundreds of scourges descending upon the bare flesh. Icannot conceive anything more horrible. Before ten minutes had passed, thesound became _splashing, _ from the blood that was flowing. 

I have heard of these penitences in Italian churches, and also that half ofthose who go there do not really scourge themselves; but here where thereis such perfect concealment, there seems no motive for deception. Incredible as it may seem, this awful penance continued, withoutintermission, for half an hour! If they scourged _each other, _ their energymight be less astonishing. 

We could not leave the church, but it was perfectly sickening; and had Inot been able to take hold of the Señora -----'s hand, and feel somethinghuman beside me, I could have fancied myself transported into acongregation of evil spirits. Now and then, but very seldom, a suppressedgroan was heard, and occasionally the voice of the monk encouraging them byejaculations, or by short passages from Scripture. Sometimes the organstruck up, and the poor wretches, in a faint voice, tried to join in the_Miserere_. The sound of the scourging is indescribable. At the end of halfan hour a little bell was rung, and the voice of the monk was heard, calling upon them to desist; but such was their enthusiasm, that thehorrible lashing continued louder and fiercer than ever. 

In vain he entreated them not to kill themselves; and assured them thatheaven would be satisfied, and that human nature could not endure beyond acertain point. No answer, but the loud sound of the scourges, which aremany of them of iron, with sharp points that enter the flesh. At length, asif they were perfectly exhausted, the sound grew fainter, and little bylittle ceased altogether. We then got up in the dark, and, with greatdifficulty, groped our way in the pitch darkness through the galleries anddown the stairs, till we reached the door, and had the pleasure of feelingthe fresh air again. They say that the church-floor is frequently coveredwith blood after one of these penances, and that a man died the other dayin consequence of his wounds. 

I then went to the house of the ----- Minister, where there was a_reunion_, and where I found the company comfortably engaged in eating avery famous kind of German salad, composed of herrings, smoked salmon, coldpotatoes, and apples; (salmagundi?) and drinking hot punch. After the cold, darkness, and horrors of the church, this formed rather a contrast; and itwas some time before I could shake off the disagreeable impression left bythe _desagravios_, and join in the conversation. . . . 

Along with this you will receive some Mexican airs, which I have written byear from hearing them played, and of some of which I gave you the words ina former letter. 

[Illustration: MEXICAN AIRS See Letters 12th and 16th. JARAVE PALAMO. ]

[Illustration: LOS ENANOS. ]

[Illustration: PERICO. ]

[Illustration: EL AFORRADO. ]

LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH

Fête-day--Friendly Hint--Precautions--General Tranquillity--President inSan Agustin--Revisit Museum--Ancient Manuscripts--Sculpture--Bronze Bust, etc. --Freshness after Rain--Ball at the French Minister's--Pamphlet--Gutierrez Estrada--His Character--Concealment--_Mexicalsingo_--Minister ofthe Treasury--Archbishop's Permission--Paintings--Mexican Painters--SantaTeresa--Description of the Interior--The Penitences--Tortures--Disciplines, etc. --Supper--Profane Ballads--Monasteries--San Francisco--_Padre Prior_--Soldiers and Friars. 

October 3rd. 

Yesterday being C---n's fête-day, we had a dinner and small _soirée_, andaccording to custom, visits the whole day. A very agreeable guest fromHavana, Don J---- A----, arrived to spend a few weeks with us. We hadrather a pleasant party, and some good singing; but just as dancing hadbegun, C----n took me aside, and showed me a little friendly note which hehad received while at dinner, from General -----, in which he informs himthat the robbers would in all probability attack our respective houses thatnight; that he had taken his precautions, and advises C---n to do the same, in the understanding that, if necessary, they should mutually assist eachother. A pleasant piece of intelligence! The thing got whispered about, andsome of the ladies looked a little blank at the information; but therecould be no risk while so many persons were collected. About one they wentaway, and C---n sent for some soldiers to keep watch all night. Nothinghappened, as no doubt the robbers found out what precautions had beentaken. The intended attack had been discovered by a servant of thegeneral's, who heard them discussing the matter in the back-room of apulque-shop. 

We have been obliged to procure two old soldiers as porters, in lieu of thetwo who were shot in the revolution; for though not killed, they areentirely disabled for the present. 

Mexico appears particularly quiet just now; and whatever storms may bepreparing, no symptoms are visible to the uninitiated eye. The palace hasgot in its glass eyes again, and externally is almost entirely repaired;but it is not yet fit for the residence of the president, who still _holdshis court_ in the convent of San Agustin. I have been driving about withour Havana friend, like an old resident, showing the beauties of Mexico toa stranger. We have been in the Mineria, Museum, Botanical Garden, BiscayCollege, etc. , all of which can bear revision. 

The Museum especially, which, owing to the want of arrangement andclassification in the antiquities, and the manner in which they are crowdedtogether in the different rooms of the university, appears at firstundeserving of much attention, improves upon acquaintance. It is only sincethe year '25 that it was established by the government, and various planshave been since made for enriching and arranging it, and also fortransporting it to the old building of the Inquisition. But as yet nothingessential has been carried into effect. 

It contains upwards of two hundred historical manuscripts, some inhieroglyphical characters anterior to the conquest, and many in thedifferent ancient languages of the country. Of the ancient sculpture, itpossesses two colossal statues and many smaller ones, besides a variety ofbusts, heads, figures of animals, masks, and instruments of music or ofwar, curiously engraved, and indicating the different degrees ofcivilization of the different nations to whom they belonged. A great manyof the vases of _tecal_, and of the candlesticks in clay, curiously worked, were drawn from excavations in the Isle of Sacrifices, near Vera Cruz, fromOajaca, etc. , and from the suburbs of Mexico. There is also a collection ofvery ancient medals to the number of six hundred, a bronze bust of PhilipV, and about two hundred Mexican paintings, comprehending two collectionsof the portraits of the Spanish viceroys, many of the celebrated Cabrera's, and various dresses, arms, and utensils, from both the Californias. In thecabinet of natural history there is a good collection of minerals, and somevery fine specimens of gold and silver. But in the animal or vegetablebranch of natural history there is a great deficiency, and altogether themuseum is not worthy of a country which seems destined by nature to be thegreat emporium of all natural science. 

Of course we have revisited old Chapultepec and Our Lady of Guadalupe, withher Legend and Holy Well. In the morning we have rode to Tacubaya and theenvirons, and the weather at that early hour has the most indescribablefreshness, caused by the evening rains. Everything looks bright andsparkling. The Peruvian trees, with their bending green branches andbunches of scarlet berries, glitter with the heavy rain-drops, and even thehoary cypresses of Chapultepec sparkle with water in all their giganticbranches. Little pools have become ponds, and ditches rivulets, andfrequently it is rather wading than riding, which is not so pleasant. 

24th. --Last evening we had a very pretty ball in the house of the FrenchMinister, where all the Paris furniture was very effective. There were asusual plenty of diamonds, and some handsome dresses--mine white satin, withflowers. 

25th. -The whole world is talking of a pamphlet written by Señor GutierrezEstrada, which has just appeared, and seems likely to cause a greatersensation in Mexico than the discovery of the gunpowder plot in England. Its sum and substance is the proposal of a constitutional Monarchy inMexico, with a foreign prince (not named) at its head, as the only remedyfor the evils by which it is afflicted. The pamphlet is written merely in aspeculative form, inculcating no sanguinary measures, or sudden revolution;but the consequences are likely to be most disastrous to the fearless andpublic-spirited author. Even those who most question his prudence in takingthis step, agree that in this, as well as in every other political actionof his life, he has acted from thorough conviction and from motives of thepurest patriotism, unalloyed by one personal feeling; indeed, entirelythrowing behind him every consideration of personal or family interest, which even the best men allow to have some weight with them on suchoccasions. 

In a political review of Mexico, written some years ago by a Mexican whodeals fearlessly, and it would seem impartially, with the characters of allthe leading men of that period, I find some remarks on Señor GutierrezEstrada, which you will place more faith in, as coming from a less partialsource than from persons so attached as we are to him and his family. Inspeaking of the conduct of the administration, he says--"Señor GutierrezEstrada was one of the few who remained firm in his ideas, and above all, true to his political engagements. This citizen is a native of the State ofYucatan, where his family, who are distinguished in every point of view, reside. It is unnecessary to say that Gutierrez received a thorough andbrilliant education, as it is sufficient to have conversed with him todiscover this fact; nor that he knew how to turn it to account in thecareer of public service to which he devoted himself, and in which he hasremained pure and unblemished in the midst of a corrupt class. From thefirst he was destined to the European legations, on account of his fluencyin speaking and writing both English and French; and he is one of the fewwho have employed their time usefully in the capitals of the Old World. Flexible by nature, honourable by education, and expeditious in business, his services have been perfect, and above all, loyal and conscientious. " Hegoes on to say that, "notwithstanding the gentleness of his temper, hispolitical conscience is so firm and pure, that he will never yield in whathe considers his obligation, _even when it interferes with the mostintimate friendships, _ or most weighty considerations. " One would thinkthat the writer had foreseen the present emergency. I have not yet read thepamphlet which the friends of the author consider an equal proof of hisnoble independence, bold patriotism, and vast information; being, to saythe truth, much more interested in its domestic effects than in its publicresults, or even its intrinsic merits. 

26th. --Soldiers were sent to the house of the Countess de la C---a, toarrest her son-in-law, but in compliance with the entreaties of his family, he had gone into concealment. I found them in great affliction, but theyare so accustomed to political persecution from one party or another, particularly the countess, that her courage has never deserted her for amoment. He is accused in Congress--in the senate-house--a proclamation ismade by the president, anathematizing his principles--even the printer ofthe pamphlet is thrown into prison. Nothing else is spoken of, and thegeneral irritation is so terrible, that it is to be hoped his place ofconcealment is secure; otherwise the consequences may be fatal. 

_On pretend_ that many distinguished men here hold the same opinions, buttheir voices, even were they to venture to raise them, could not stem thetide of public indignation. The most offended are naturally the militarymen. . . . In short, Señor Gutierrez, who has been passing four years abroad, in countries where hundreds of obscure scribblers daily advocaterepublicanism or any wild theory that strikes their fancy, with the mostperfect security, was probably hardly aware of the extraordinary fermentwhich such a pamphlet was likely to produce at the present juncture. 

27th. --A few days before Señor A---- left us, we went up the canal in acanoe, as far as Santa Anita, to show him all that remains of theChinampas. It is as pleasant a way of passing an evening as any that I knowof here. 

We drove lately to Mexicalsingo, where there is a cave in which there is afigure of our Saviour, which they pretend has lately appeared there. 

The excitement concerning the pamphlet seems rather to increase thandiminish, but Señor Gutierrez has many devoted friends, and the place ofhis retreat is secure. There is little doubt that he will be forced to flythe country. 

29th. Señor Don Xavier Hechavarria, Minister of the Treasury, has sent inhis resignation. Being a man of large private fortune, extremely simple inhis habits, and the most amiable of men in domestic life, I believe that noMinister has ever thrown off with more unaffected satisfaction the burdenof state affairs, or will enjoy his retreat from public life with more truephilosophy. 

I have been so much interested in the affairs of the C---a family, that Ihave forgotten to tell you of my having obtained permission from thearchbishop to visit the Santa Teresa, accompanied by one young marriedlady, who has a sister there. The archbishop desired that our visit shouldbe kept a secret; but it has _oozed_ out by some means or other, probablythrough the nuns themselves, and exposed him to so much inconvenience andsuch a torrent of solicitations from those ladies who, having daughters orsisters amongst the nuns, are naturally most desirous to see them, that Ifear, notwithstanding his good nature, he will put a veto on all my futureapplications. You will think I pass my time in convents, but I find noother places half so interesting, and you know I always had a fancy thatway. 

In some of these convents there still exist, buried alive like the inmates, various fine old paintings; amongst others, some of the Flemish school, brought to Mexico by the monks, at the time when the Low Countries wereunder Spanish dominion. Many masters also of the Mexican school, such asEnriquez, Cabrera, etc. , have enriched the cloisters with theirproductions, and employed their talent on holy subjects, such as the livesof the saints, the martyrs, and other Christian subjects. Everywhere, especially, there are _Cabreras_, an artist somewhat in the Luca Giordanostyle; the same monotony, facility, and "_fa presto Luca!_" All hispictures are agreeable, and some strikingly beautiful. Occasionally hecopies from the old masters, but rarely. Ximenes and Enriquez are not socommon, and some of their productions are very good, and deserve to bebetter known than I imagine they are in Europe. They are a branch of theSpanish school, and afford striking proofs of the extraordinary talent ofthe Mexicans for the fine arts, as well as of the facilities which themother-country afforded them. 

But it is in the convent of the Profesa that the finest paintings are, andthere I cannot enter! The galleries are full of paintings, the most part byCabrera; and C---n speaks with enthusiasm of one exceedingly beautifulpainting, in the sacristy of the chapel, said to be an original Guido, being a representation of Christ tied to the pillar and scourged; in whichthe expression of pure divinity and suffering humanity is finely blended, and well contrasted with savage cruelty in the countenances of hisexecutioners. But most of these paintings are neglected, and so falling todecay that it is pitiable to look at them. 

The Santa Teresa, however, has few ornaments. It is not nearly so large asthe _Encarnación_, and admits but twenty-one nuns. At present there are, besides these, but three novices. Its very atmosphere seems holy, and itsscrupulous and excessive cleanness makes all profane dwellings appear dirtyby comparison. We were accompanied by a bishop, Señor Madrid, the same whoassisted at the archbishop's consecration--a good-looking man, young andtall, and very splendidly dressed. His robes were of purple satin, coveredwith fine point-lace, with a large cross of diamonds and amethysts. He alsowore a cloak of very fine purple cloth, lined with crimson velvet, crimsonstockings, and an immense amethyst ring. 

When he came in we found that the nuns had permission to put up theirveils, rarely allowed in this order in the presence of strangers. They havea small garden and fountain, plenty of flowers, and some fruit, but all ison a smaller scale, and sadder than in the convent of the Incarnation. Therefectory is a large room, with a long narrow table running all round it--aplain deal table, with wooden benches; before the place of each nun, anearthen bowl, an earthen cup with an apple in it, a wooden plate and awooden spoon; at the top of the table a grinning skull, to remind them thateven these indulgences they shall not long enjoy. 

In one corner of the room is a reading-desk, a sort of elevated pulpit, where one reads aloud from some holy book, whilst the others discuss theirsimple fare. They showed us a crown of thorns, which, on certain days, isworn by one of their number, by way of penance. It is made of iron, so thatthe nails entering inwards, run into the head, and make it bleed. While shewears this on her head, a sort of wooden bit is put into her mouth, and shelies prostrate on her face till dinner is ended; and while in thiscondition her food is given her, of which she eats as much as she can, which probably is none. 

We visited the different cells, and were horror-struck at theself-inflicted tortures. Each bed consists of a wooden plank raised in themiddle, and on days of penitence crossed by wooden bars. The pillow iswooden, with a cross lying on it, which they hold in their hands when theylie down. The nun lies on this penitential couch, embracing the cross, andher feet hanging out, as the bed is made too short for her upon principle. Round her waist she occasionally wears a band with iron points turninginwards; on her breast a cross with nails, of which the points enter theflesh, of the truth of which I had melancholy ocular demonstration. Then, after having scourged herself with a whip covered with iron nails, she liesdown for a few hours on the wooden bars, and rises at four o'clock. Allthese instruments of discipline, which each nun keeps in a little boxbeside her bed, look as if their fitting place would be in the dungeons ofthe Inquisition. They made me try their _bed and board_, which I told themwould give me a very decided taste for early rising. 

Yet they all seem as cheerful as possible, though it must be confessed thatmany of them look pale and unhealthy. It is said, that when they are strongenough to stand this mode of life, they live very long; but it frequentlyhappens that girls who come into this convent, are obliged to leave it fromsickness, long before the expiration of their novitiate. I met with thegirl whom I had seen take the veil, and cannot say that she looked eitherwell or cheerful, though she assured me, that "of course, in doing the willof God, " she was both. There was not much beauty amongst them generally, though one or two had remains of great loveliness. My friend, the MadreA----, is handsomer on a closer view than I had supposed her, and seems anespecial favourite with old and young. But there was one whose face musthave been strikingly beautiful. She was as pale as marble, and though stillyoung, seemed in very delicate health; but her eyes and eyebrows as blackas jet, the eyes so large and soft, the eyebrows two pencilled arches; andher smiles so resigned and sweet, would have made her the loveliest modelimaginable for a Madonna. 

Again, as in the Incarnation, they had taken the trouble to prepare anelegant supper for us. The bishop took his place in an antique velvetchair, the Señora ----- and I were placed on each side of him. The room wasvery well lighted, and there was as great a profusion of custards, jellies, and ices, as if we had been supping at the most profane _cafe_. The nunsdid not sit down, but walked about, pressing us to eat, the bishop now andthen giving them cakes, with permission to eat them, which they receivedlaughing. They have the most humble and caressing manners, and reallyappear to be the most amiable and excellent women in the world. They seemto make no ostentation of virtue, but to be seriously impressed with theconviction that they have chosen the true road to salvation; nor are therein them any visible symptoms of that spiritual pride from which fewdevotees are exempt. 

After supper a small harp was brought in, which had been sent for by thebishop's permission. It was terribly out of tune, with half the stringsbroke; but we were determined to grudge no trouble in putting it in order, and giving these poor recluses what they considered so great agratification. We got it into some sort of condition at last, and when theyheard it played, they were vehement in their expressions of delight. TheSeñora -----, who has a charming voice, afterwards sang to them, the bishopbeing very indulgent, and permitting us to select whatever songs we chose, so that when rather a profane canticle, "The Virgin of the Pillar" (LaVirgen del Pilar), was sung, he very kindly turned a deaf ear to it, andseemed busily engaged in conversation with an old madre, till it was allover. 

We were really sorry to leave them; particularly as it is next toimpossible that we shall ever see them again; and it seemed as if in a fewhours a friendship had been formed between us and these recluses, whosesensations are so few, they must be the more lasting. The thoughts of thesepoor women cost me a sad and sleepless night. They have sent me some waxfigures, dressed in the costumes of the different orders, beginning withtheir own. They wear the coarsest and hardest stuff next their skin, initself a perpetual penance. 

In these robes they are buried; and one would think that if any human beingcan ever leave this world without a feeling of regret, it must be a nun ofthe Santa Teresa, when, her privations in this world ended, she lays downher blameless life, and joins the pious sisterhood who have gone beforeher; dying where she has lived, surrounded by her companions, her lasthours soothed by their prayers and tears, sure of their vigils for therepose of her soul, and above all, sure that neither pleasure nor vanitywill ever obliterate her remembrance from their hearts. 

At matins, at vespers, at the simple board, at the nightly hymn, she willbe missed from their train. Her empty cell will recall her to their eyes;her dust will be profaned by no stranger's footstep, and though taken awayshe still seems to remain amongst them. . . . 

As for the monasteries, not only no woman can enter, but it is said, withwhat truth I know not, that a vice-queen having insisted on the privilegeof her vice-royalty to enter, the gallery and every place which herfootsteps desecrated were unpaved. This was very Saint Senanus like, and_peu galant_, to say the least. 

The finest convent of monks in Mexico is that of San Francisco, which fromalms alone has an immense annual rent. According to Humboldt, it was tohave been built upon the ruins of the temple of Huitzilopoclitli, the godof war; but these ruins having been destined for the foundation of thecathedral, this immense convent was erected where it now stands, in 1531. The founder was an extraordinary man, a great benefactor of the Indians, and to whom they owed many useful mechanical arts which he brought themfrom Europe. His name was Fray Pedro de Gante--his calling that of alay-friar--and his father was the Emperor Charles V!

Of the interior of this convent I am enabled to give you a partialdescription, but whether from hearsay, in a vision, or by the use of mynatural eyes, I shall not disclose. It is built in the form of a square, and has five churches attached to it. You enter a gate, pass through thegreat, silent, and grass-grown court--up the broad staircase, and enter thelong, arched cloisters, lighted by one dim lamp, where everything seems tobreathe a religious repose. . . . 

The padre prior, seated alone in his cell, with a thick and richly-claspedvolume before him, a single lamp on his table, on the wall a crucifix, plain but decent furniture, with his bald head, and pale, impressive face, would have made a fine study for a painter. By such men, the embers oflearning and of science were nursed into a faint but steady flame, burningthrough the long, gloomy night of the dark ages, unseen by profane eyes, like the vestal fire in pagan temples. . . . 

A small room, opening into his little parlour, contains his bed, on whichis a mattress; for the padres do not perform such acts of self-denial andpenitence as the cloistered nuns--and I am assured that his cigars aregenuine Havana. . . . 

Beggars lounging in the courtyard--a group of monks talking together withinthe walled enclosure. . . . 

Change the scene to the monastery of San Agustin, and you might fancyyourself in the days of one of Walter Scott's romances, in the _melange_ ofsoldiers and friars; for here his Excellency the President has histemporary abode; and the torch-light gleams brightly on the swarthy facesof the soldiers, some lying on the ground enveloped in their cloaks; otherskeeping guard before the convent gate. This convent is also very large, butnot so immense as that of San Francisco. The padre prior is a good littleold man, but has not the impressive, ascetic visage of the guardian of theother convent. His room is as simple, though not in such perfect order; andhis bed is also furnished with a comfortable mattress. An air halfmilitary, half monkish, pervades the convent--aides-de-camp of thepresident passing along the galleries, their uniforms contrasting with thedark robe of a passing monk, returning at nightfall to his cell. 

The president had an alarm the night preceding, the prisoners in the jailhaving broken out. A serious affray had been expected, and everything wasprepared for putting the person of the president in safety. The back stairsand secret passages in these old convents lead to excellent hiding-places, and have been put to frequent use during the revolutions. In the old MontePio there is a communication with a convent of nuns, and in cases ofpillage, the jewels used to be carried by a private staircase out of MontePio, and placed under the care of the nuns of Santa Brigida. 

The convent of La Profesa is also a fine and spacious building, butexcepting that it has a greater number of good paintings than the others, when you have seen one, you have seen all, and I believe none are as largeas that founded by the illegitimate scion of the Imperial Charles, whohimself ended his days in a similar retreat. 

LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH

_Día de Muertos_--Leave Mexico--_Herraderos_--San Cristobal--Tunas--Plazade Toros--Throwing the _Laso_--Accidents--Rustic Breakfast--CountryFare--Baked Meat--Indian Market--Buried Bull--Mountain--Solitary_Hacienda_--_Reyes_--Mules marked--Return--Queen of Spain'sBirthday--Diplomatic Dinner. 

Santiago, November 3rd. 

Yesterday, the second of November, a day which for eight centuries has beenset apart in the Catholic Church for commemorating the dead, the dayemphatically known as the "_Día de Muertos_, " the churches throughout allthe Republic of Mexico present a gloomy spectacle; darkened and hung withblack cloth, while in the middle aisle is a coffin, covered also withblack, and painted with skulls and other emblems of mortality. Every oneattends church in mourning, and considering the common lot of humanity, there is, perhaps, not one heart over the whole Catholic world, which isnot wrung that day, in calling up the memory of the departed. 

After early mass, we set off for Santiago, where we intend to spend a week, to be present at the _Herraderos_--the marking of the bulls with a hot ironwith the initials of the proprietor's name; stamping them with the badge ofslavery--which is said to be an extraordinary scene; to which all rancherosand Indians look forward with the greatest delight. We had a very pleasantjourney here, leaving Mexico at six in the morning, and travelling at theusual rate, with _seven_ horses and plenty of _mozos_. Indeed, no oneattempts a journey of any length into the country, without at least sixhorses or mules. 

Near Sopayuca, while they were changing horses, we went to mass, in thepicturesque church of San Cristobal. The magnificence of these places ofworship is extraordinary. Here was this country church crowded withléperos, the officiating priests, Indians with bare feet; yet the buildinglarge and rich, hung with black cloth, and lighted with great tapers whichthrew their gloomy rays on as much of the rich gilding that encrusted thewalls, as the dark pall left visible. 

We got into the carriage a basket of that most refreshing of fruits, the_tuna_, which grow wild in abundance all over the country. The first time Iunwarily pulled them off the trees, I got my fingers full of theinnumerable little prickles which cover the skin, and which it is verydifficult to get rid of. The Indians have great dexterity in gathering andpeeling them. There is the green and the red tuna; the last the prettiestto look at, but not nearly so agreeable a fruit as the other. 

When we arrived at Santiago, we sat down to a dinner to the number of aboutfifty persons, and in the room next to us was a party still larger, oflower degree, for all the world has come to be present at this annualfestivity. 

6th. --The next morning we set off early to the _plaza de toros_. The daywas fresh and exhilarating. All the country people from several leaguesround were assembled, and the trees up to their very topmost branchespresented a collection of bronze faces and black eyes, belonging to theIndians, who had taken their places there as comfortably as spectators in aone-shilling gallery. A platform opposite ours was filled with the wivesand daughters of agents and small farmers, little _rancheras_, with shortwhite gowns and rebosos. There was a very tolerable band of music, perchedupon a natural orchestra. Bernardo and his men were walking and ridingabout, and preparing for action. Nothing could be more picturesque than thewhole scene. 

Seven hundred bulls were driven in from the plains, bellowing loudly, sothat the air was filled with their fierce music. The universal love whichthe Mexicans have for these sports, amounts to a passion. All their moneyis reserved to buy new dresses for this occasion, silver rolls or goldlinings for their hats, or new deerskin pantaloons and embroidered jacketswith silver buttons. The accidents that happen are innumerable, but nothingdamps their ardour. _It beats fox-hunting. _ The most striking part of thescene is the extraordinary facility which these men show in throwing thelaso. The bulls being all driven into an enclosure--one after another, andsometimes two or three at a time, were chosen from amongst them, and driveninto the plaza, where they were received with shouts of applause, if theyappeared fierce, and likely to afford good sport; or of irony, if theyturned to fly, which happened more than once. 

Three or four bulls are driven in. They stand for a moment, proudlyreconnoitring their opponents. The horsemen gallop up, armed only with thelaso, and with loud insulting cries of "_Ah toro_!" challenge them to thecontest. The bulls paw the ground, then plunge furiously at the horses, frequently wounding them at the first onset. Round they go in fiercegallop, bulls and horsemen, amidst the cries and shouts of the spectators. The horseman throws the laso. The bull shakes his head free of the cord, tosses his horns proudly, and gallops on. But his fate is inevitable. Downcomes the whirling rope, and encircles his thick neck. He is thrown downstruggling furiously, and repeatedly dashes his head against the ground inrage and despair. Then, his legs being also tied, the man with the hissingred-hot iron in the form of a letter, brands him on the side with the tokenof his dependence on the lord of the soil. Some of the bulls stand thismartyrdom with Spartan heroism and do not utter a cry; but others, when theiron enters their flesh, burst out into long bellowing roars, that seem toecho through the whole country. They are then loosened, get upon their legsagain, and like so many branded Cains, are driven out into the country, tomake way for others. Such roaring, such shouting, such an odour of singedhair and _biftek au naturel, _ such playing of music, and such wanton risksas were ran by the men!

I saw a toreador, who was always foremost in everything, attempting to draga bull by the horns, when the animal tossed his head, and with the jerk ofone horn, tore all the flesh off his finger to the very bone. The mancoolly tore a piece off a handkerchief, shook the blood off his finger witha slight grimace, bound it up in a moment, and dashed away upon a newventure. One Mexican, extraordinarily handsome, with eyes like an eagle, and very thin and pale, is, they say, so covered from head to foot withwounds received in different bullfights, that he cannot live long; yet thisman was the most enthusiastic of them all. His master tried to dissuade himfrom joining in the sport this year; but he broke forth into such patheticentreaties, conjuring him "by the life of the Señorita, " etc. , that hecould not withhold his consent. 

After an enormous number of bulls had been caught and _labelled_, we wentto breakfast. We found a tent prepared for us, formed of bows of treesintertwined with garlands of white moss, like that which covers thecypresses of Chapultepec, and beautifully ornamented with red blossoms andscarlet berries. We sat down upon heaps of white moss, softer than anycushion. The Indians had cooked meat under the stones for us, which I foundhorrible, smelling and tasting of smoke. But we had also boiled fowls, andquantities of burning chile, hot tortillas, atole, or _atolli_, as theIndians call it, a species of cakes made of very fine maize and water, andsweetened with sugar or honey; _embarrado_, a favourite composition of meatand chile, very like _mud_, as the name imports, which I have not yet madeup my mind to endure; quantities of fresh tunas, granaditas, bananas, aguacates, and other fruits, besides pulque, _à discrétion_. 

The other people were assembled in circles under the trees, cooking fowlsand boiling eggs in a gipsy fashion, in caldrons, at little fires made withdry branches; and the band, in its intervals of tortilla and pulque, favoured us with occasional airs. After breakfast, we walked out amongstthe Indians, who had formed a sort of temporary market, and were sellingpulque, chia, roasted chestnuts, yards of baked meat, and every kind offruit. We then returned to see a great bull-fight, which was followed bymore _herraderos_--in short, spent the whole day amongst the _toros_, andreturned to dinner at six o'clock, some in coaches, some on horseback. Inthe evening, all the people danced in a large hall; but at eleven o'clock Icould look on no longer, for one of these days in the hot sun is veryfatiguing. Nevertheless, at two in the morning, these men, who had gonethrough such violent exercise, were still dancing jarabes. 

8th. --For several days we lived amongst bulls and Indians, the _herraderos_continuing, with variation of _colear_, riding the bulls, etc. Not theslightest slackening in the eagerness of the men. Even a little boy of tenyears old mounted a young bull one day, and with great difficulty and at agreat risk succeeded in forcing him to gallop round the circle. His fatherlooked on, evidently frightened to death for the boy, yet too proud of hisyouthful prowess to attempt to stop him. 

At night, when I shut my eyes, I see before me visions of bulls' heads. Even when asleep I hear them roaring, or seem to listen to the shouts of"_Ah toro!_" The last day of the _herraderos_, by way of winding up, a bullwas killed in honour of C---n, and a great flag was sent streaming from atree, on which flag was inscribed in large letters, "Gloria al SeñorMinistro de la Augusta Cristina!" a piece of gallantry which I rewardedwith a piece of gold. 

The animal, when dead, was given as a present to the _torcadores_; andthis bull, cut in pieces, they bury with his skin on, in a hole in theground previously prepared with fire in it, which is then covered overwith earth and branches. During a certain time, it remains baking in thisnatural oven, and the common people consider it a great delicacy, (inwhich I differ from them). 

Yesterday, we climbed to the top of a steep mountain, which cost us as muchlabour as if it had been that steep path which "leads to fame. "Fortunately, it has a good deal of wood, and we had an occasional rest inthe shade. We mounted the hill on horseback as far as horses could go, butthe principal part could only be performed on foot. Most of the partyremained half way. We reached the top, swinging ourselves up by thebranches, in places where it was nearly perpendicular. We were rewarded, first by the satisfaction one always has in making good one's intentions, and next, by a wonderfully fine and extensive view. Our return was moreagreeable, as the weather, except in the heat of the noonday sun, is verycold in this part of the country. The hills are covered chiefly with tunas, low firs, and numbers of shrubs, with flowers and berries. . . . Met on ourreturn a horseman who came to announce the arrival of a guest, SeñorH----, from Puebla, who proved a pleasant addition to our society. 

15th. --We went out early this morning on horseback, and breakfasted at an_hacienda_, five leagues distant from Santiago, belonging to the widow of-----'s agents, a good looking, respectable woman, who, alone, in thissolitary place, brings up her eight children as she best can. This mayreally be called solitude. From one year to another she never sees a humanbeing, except an occasional Indian. She is well off, and everything in herhouse is clean and comfortable. She herself manages the farm, and educatesher children to the best of her abilities, so that she never finds time tobe dull. She expected us, and gave us breakfast (we being about twenty innumber), consisting of everything which that part of the country canafford; and the party certainly did justice to her excellent fare. She gaveus pulque, fermented with the juice of the pineapple, which is very good. 

When the sun had gone down a little, we rode to the fine _hacienda_ ofReyes, belonging to Señor A----, where he is making and projectingalterations and improvements. When we left Reyes it began to rain, and wewere glad to accept the covering of _sarapes_, as we galloped over theplains. We had a delightful ride. Towards evening the rain ceased, and themoon rose brightly and without a cloud; but we were certainly tired enoughwhen we got home, having rode in all ten leagues. 

17th. --These two days have been passed in seeing the mules marked. They areeven more dangerous than the bulls, as they bite most ferociously while intheir wild state. When thrown down by the laso, they snore in the mostextraordinary manner, like so many aldermen in an apoplectic nap. 

This is, perhaps, the most useful and profitable of all Mexican animals. Asbeasts of burden and for draught, they are in use over the whole republic, and are excellent for long journeys, being capable of immense fatigue, particularly in those arid, hilly parts of the country, where there are noroads. Those which go in droves, can carry about five hundred poundsweight, going at the rate of twelve or fourteen miles a day, and in thisway they can perform journeys of more than a thousand miles. For constantuse they are preferable to horses, being so much less delicate, requiringless care, and enduring more fatigue. A good pair of carriage mules willcost from five hundred to a thousand dollars. 

After dinner we saw some of these wild creatures, that had just beencaught, put into a carriage, each wild mule harnessed with a civilized one, and such kicking and flinging up of heels I never witnessed. However, the_mozos_ can manage anything, and in about half an hour, after muchalternate soothing and lashing, they trotted along with the heavy coachafter them, only rearing and plunging at decent intervals. 

MEXICO, 12th. 

We have passed ten days in the country, taking constant exercise, and havebeen obliged to return home rather sooner than we should have wished, inorder to mark Queen Ysabel's Day with a diplomatic dinner. 

Though less is now said on the subject of the pamphlet than when we leftthis, the irritation seems to continue as before. Señor Gutierrez remainsconcealed, communicating only with his family and a few devoted friends; amost disagreeable position, and one which it is impossible for him toendure long. 

20th. --Our dinner has _gone off_ as well as could be expected. The partywere twenty-six in number, consisting of His Grace the Archbishop, theirExcellencies of the Cabinet and _Corps Diplomatique_, together with CountCortina, the Valencias, and Gorostizas. The gentlemen were in fulluniform--the ladies _en grande toilette_--the archbishop in his robes. Wehad a band of music in the gallery, and walked in to the sound of Norma, precedence being given to the archbishop, who took me, or rather whom Itook, as I found some difficulty in getting my arm into his robes. Ibelieve no blunders in etiquette were committed. The dinner lasted threeand a half mortal hours. The archbishop proposed the health of Her Majestythe Queen, which was drank standing, the band performing God save thequeen. I was dreadfully tired (though in a very agreeable position), andhave no doubt every one else was the same, it being eleven when we returnedto the drawing-room. 

The archbishop's familiars, two priests who always accompany him, respectable _black guards_, were already in waiting. As for him, he was askind and agreeable as usual, and, after coffee, took his departure to thesound of music. 

LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH

Virgin of _Cavadonga_--Santo Domingo--Decorations andMusic--Daguerreotype--Weekly Soirées--An Arrival--An Earthquake--HonourableMr. -------Broken Furniture--_días_--Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe--Partyof the _Desierto_--_Itzcuintepotzotli_--Inn of _Guajimaclo_--RuinedConvent--Its Origin--_Dejéuné_ à la _Fourchette_--Splendid Scenery--Vow tothe Virgin--Musical Mass--Tacuba--Ride with the Prior. 

21ST. 

We received a few days since an invitation to attend the sumptuous mass, annually given by the Asturian Brotherhood, in honour of the Virgin ofCavadonga, in the church of Santo Domingo. The invitation being printed onblue satin, with gold lace and tassels, seems worthy of a place in a box ofwax figures, which will be sent by the next packet. 

The church was superbly decorated, and only well-dressed people wereadmitted. C---n was carried off to a post of honour near the altar, and apadre gave me a velvet chair. The music was beautiful, but too gay for achurch. There were violins and wind instruments, and several amateurplayers. Some pieces from the _Cheval de Bronze_ were very well played. Thesermon, preached by Guerrero, a chanoine who has some reputation as anorator, contained a prudent degree of praise of the Spaniards, and even ofa king, could that king be a _pelayo_. 

In the evening we dined at the Prussian Minister's--a pleasant party. 

Yesterday we went to Chapultepec, C---n and I, M. De G---t, and M. DeN----, to take views with the Daguerreotype, which C---n had the pleasureof receiving some time ago from Boston, from our friend, Mr. Prescott. While they were working in the sun, I, finding that the excessive heat hadthe effect of cooling my enthusiasm, established myself with a book underMontezuma's cypress, which felt very romantic. The poetry of the scene, however, was greatly weakened by the arrival of a party of _forçats_ inchains, who are working in the castle, which I believe there is someintention of having transformed into a military college. They are soinsolent, that forgetting they are guarded and chained in couples, I feltglad to see that the servants were within call. 

Our weekly _soirées_ have begun, and, so far, are very successful. Thereare now three tertulias in the week at the houses of the diplomates. Wehave generally music, cards, and plenty of dancing, and every one seemspleased, the best proof of which they give by generally staying till two orthree in the morning. 

28th. --You may imagine my joy at the arrival of K---- and A---- in healthand safety at three o'clock to-day. They have had a good journey from VeraCruz, suffering from nothing but the cold, which they felt especially atPerote. As they arrived on the day of a _soirée_, they did not make theirappearance, being tired. I have now an excuse for revisiting all my oldhaunts, and the first week or two must pass in sight-seeing. 

3Oth. --We dined yesterday at Tacubaya; where the C---a family, particularlythe ladies of the family, are in a state of the greatest uneasiness. 

I had just written these words, when I began, to my great astonishment, torock up and down, chair, table, and myself. Suddenly, the room, the walls, all began to move, and the floor to heave like the waves of the sea! Atfirst, I imagined that I was giddy, but almost immediately saw that it wasan earthquake. We all ran, or rather staggered as well as we could, intothe gallery, where the servants were already arranged on their knees, praying and crossing themselves with all their might. The shock lastedabove a minute and a half, and I believe has done no injury, except infrightening the whole population, and cracking a few old walls. All Mexicowas on its knees while it lasted, even the poor madmen in San Hepolito, which A---- had gone to visit in company with Señor -----. I have had afeeling of sea-sickness ever since. They expect a return of the shock intwenty-four hours. How dreadful a severe earthquake must be! how terribleit is to feel this heaving of the solid earth, to lose our confidence inits security, and to be reminded that the elements of destruction whichlurk beneath our feet, are yet swifter and more powerful to destroy, thanthose which are above us. 

I cannot help laughing yet at the recollection of the face of a poor littleclerk who had just entered the house with a packet of letters for C---n. Hedid not kneel, but sat down upon the steps as pale as death, looking as"creamed faced" as the messenger to Macbeth; and when the shock was over, he was so sick, that he ran out of the house without making any remarks. The scarlet _hucamaya_, with a loud shriek, flew from its perch, andperformed a zig-zag flight through the air, down to the troubled fountainin the court. 

Your friend, the Honourable Mr. -----, arrived the other day, looking veryill, having had the yellow fever at Havana very severely, a peculiar pieceof bad fortune at this season. 

All the furniture we ordered from the United States, arrived some time ago, a mass of legs and arms. Tables, wardrobes, etc. , were, I believe, all soldfor the mahogany at Vera Cruz. The mirrors also arrived _in powder_. Thismust be owing to bad packing, since our most delicate things from London, such as crystal, porcelain, etc. , have arrived in excellent condition. 

December 3rd. --Have had many visits to-day, this being my _día de fiesta_. Amongst others the president was here. This custom of keeping people's_días_ gives one a great deal of trouble, but the omission is consideredrather a breach of politeness. 

12th. --This being the anniversary of the day of the miraculous apparitionof our Lady of Guadalupe, the cathedral and village will be crowded withIndians from all parts of the country. A---- and Mr. B---- have driven overthere; but, from all accounts, the crowd will be so great, that we are nottempted to accompany them. We have a _soirée_ this evening, and have hadtwo pleasant parties this week at the other houses. To-morrow we intendgoing with a large party to the _Desierto_, where some gentlemen are togive a breakfast. I understand that there are to be twenty-three people onhorseback, and eighteen in carriages, and our _trysting-place_ is by thegreat fountain with the gilt statue, in the Paseo de Bucarelli; the hour, half-past seven. They say the Desierto is a beautiful place, but beingseven leagues from Mexico, we shall probably all return as tired aspossible. 

15th. --The morning of our party to the Desierto was beautiful. Here oneneed not fear those _contretemps_ in regard to the weather, which inEngland so often render a party of pleasure painful; unless, indeed, onechooses to select an evening in the rainy season for an expedition. We metby the fountain at the hour appointed, some in carriages, and some onhorseback. Of the latter I formed part. The road leads along the aqueductby Chapultepec, and through Tacubaya, and is the high-road that goes toToluca. The first part, after passing Tacubaya, is steep, bleak, anduninteresting. Plantations of maguey and occasional clumps of Peruviantrees are the only vegetation, and Indian huts the only traces of humanlife. But after a tedious ascent, the view looking back upon Mexico, withall her churches, lakes, and mountains is truly magnificent. The road alsobegins to wind through a fertile and wooded country. About noon we reachedan inn, where travellers stop who are going to Toluca, and where we haltedto collect our scattered forces. Hanging up by a hook in the entry, alongwith various other dead animals, polecats, weasels, etc. , was the ugliestcreature I ever beheld. It seemed a species of dog, with a hunch back, ahead like a wolf, and no neck, a perfect monster. As far as I can make outit must be the _itzcuintepotzotli_, mentioned by some old Mexican writers. The people had brought it up in the house, and killed it on account of itsfierceness. This inn stands in the valley of Guajimalco, and is about aleague from the Desierto. 

There is no longer any road there, but a steep and winding path through thebeautiful woods. Therefore those who had come in coaches were now obligedto proceed on donkeys, with Indian guides. The beauty of the scenery isindescribable. The path winds, ascending through a wilderness of trees andflowering shrubs, bathed by a clear and rapid rivulet; and every now andthen, through the arched forest-trees, are glimpses of the snowy volcanoesand of the distant domes and lakes of Mexico. 

The ruins of the old Carmelite convent, standing on the slope of a hill, are surrounded by noble forests of pine, and oak, and cedar; long and loftyforest-aisles, where the monks of former days wandered in peacefulmeditation. But they removed from this beautiful site to another, said tobe equally beautiful and wilder, also called the Desierto, but much fartherfrom Mexico; and this fertile region (which the knowing eye of a Yankeewould instantly discover to be full of capabilities in the way ofmachinery), belongs to no one, and lies here deserted, in solitary beauty. Some poor Indians live amongst the ruins of the old cloisters, and the wilddeer possess the undisputed sovereignty of the woods. 

It is said that a benighted traveller, who had lost his way in thesesolitudes, and was miraculously saved from dying of cold, founded this richconvent of Carmelite monks, in gratitude to Heaven for his deliverance, bequeathing his desire, that all travellers who passed that way shouldreceive hospitality from the convent. Certainly no place more fitted fordevotion could have been selected than this mountain retreat; and when theconvent bell tolled at evening, calling the monks to prayer, and wakeningthe echoes of the silent hills, its deep notes must have been all in unisonwith the solemn scene. 

But the sight of a very magnificent _déjeuné à la fourchette_, spread underthe pine-trees, the uncorking of champagne bottles and Scotch ale, thesavoury odour of soups and fricandeaus, the bustling attendance of Englishwaiters, put to flight all romantic fancies. We remembered that we werehungry, that we had ridden seven miles and had not breakfasted; and noorder of friars could have done more justice to the repast than we did. . . . But the component parts of a party of pleasure must be very curiouslyselected, the mosaic of the society very nicely fitted, or it willinevitably terminate unpleasantly; and the elements of discord are moredangerous, their effects more lasting, than even the coughs and colds andrheumatisms produced by those watery elements, sworn foes to all picnicsand gipsy parties in our foggy island. 

About four o'clock we remounted our horses, and retraced our path throughthe woods; and who could ruminate on petty disputes, or complain oftrifling accidents, or not forget any disagreeable individuals who mighthave been found among our numerous party, when the splendid panorama ofMexico burst upon us, with all its mountains, lakes, and plains, itschurches, and towers, and gardens, bathed in a flood of golden light, therich crimson clouds of sunset resting upon the snow of the volcanoes, whilethe woods through which our horses picked their steps, over stones andstreamlets, were fragrant with blossoming shrubs and wild roses?

When we reached the inn where the carriages had been left, we remounted ourhorses, and as it was growing dusk, and the whole party had not yetcollected together, we thought it advisable for the equestrian part of theexpedition to ride forward; so leaving the carriages with their escort, weset off for Mexico; C---n, I, A----, and a servant, at full gallop, andhardly drew our bridles till we reached the city; tired, as you maysuppose, after our fourteen leagues' ride. 

20th. --Our yesterday evening's tertulia was very crowded; and there was agreat deal of music and dancing. These weekly _soirées_ are decidedlysuccessful, and the best families in Mexico unite there without etiquette, which we were told it was impossible to bring about. . . . 

Perhaps it is that I am getting accustomed to the Mexican style of face, but it appeared to me that there was a great deal of beauty assembled; andas for fine voices, they are as common in Mexico as they are rare inEngland. . . . 

A rich senator, Don B---- G----, made a vow to the Virgin some years ago, that he would cause a splendid mass to be performed annually in thecathedral, at his own expense, in honour of our Saviour's birth, on themorning of Christmas-eve. This mass is performed entirely by amateurs, mostof the young ladies in Mexico, who have fine voices, taking a part in it. Iwas _drawn in_, very unwillingly, to promise to take a trifling part on theharp, the accompaniment to the _Incarnatus_. 

Preparations have long been going on for this solemnization, and variousrehearsals have taken place amongst the amateur singers, in the evening, before large audiences in the Mineria. The whole thing promises well. 

24th. --C---n has gone with Señor Zurutuza (a Spanish gentleman), toCuernavaca, in _tierra caliente_, to spend a few days at his estate in theneighbourhood; which at this season will be delightful. 

This morning we rode to San Joaquin, where we met the prior on horseback, on his way to Mexico to confess the old prioress of the convent of SantaTeresa. He turned back, and accompanied us during the rest of our ride. Herode with us to Tacuba, round the traces of the ruins, and to the fine oldchurch and dismantled convent, where we dismounted, and having taken offour riding-hats, accompanied the prior through the deserted cloisters intothe old church; and I imagine we must have looked very picturesque; I in myriding-habit, and the sandalled friar in his white robes, kneeling side byside, on the broken steps of the altar. He is so pleasant andwell-informed, that he is a particularly agreeable companion. 

LETTER THE THIRTIETH

Christmas-day--Kalends and Mass--AmateurPerformances--Solo--_Posadas_--Wandering of the HolyFamily--_Nacimiento_--Crowded Party--French Cooks--Mexican Cook--State ofHousehold--New Year's Day--Mass--Dirtiness of the Churches, etc. --Comparisons--Private Chapels--English Club--Preparations for Journey. 

25th. 

CHRISTMAS-DAY! One year this evening since we made our entry into Mexico. What a different aspect everything has assumed to us in one year! Thenevery object was new, every face that of a stranger. Now we are surroundedby familiar sights and sounds, and above all by friendly faces. But thoughnovelty, which has its charms and its _désagrémens_, has gone, nothing inMexico even appears commonplace. Everything is on so large a scale, andeverything so picturesque. Then there is so much interest attached to itsold buildings, so much to see, even though there are no _sights_ and noshow-places, unless we are to put in that class the Minera, Museum, Cathedral, University, and Botanic Garden, usually visited by travellers, that at whatever period we may leave it, I feel convinced we shall regretsome point of interest, that we have left unvisited. . . . 

Some days ago coloured cards, printed in gilt letters, were sent round, inviting all the senator's friends to the mass, in this form:--

"J---e B---o G---- requests that you will honour him with your presence andthat of your family, in the solemn function of Kalends and Mass, with whichhe annually makes an humble remembrance of the Birth of the Saviour, whichfestivity will take place on the morning of the 24th of this month, at nineo'clock in the Parish Church of the _Sagrario_ of the Holy Cathedral. 

"Mexico, December, 1840. "

By nine we were all assembled in the choir; Don B---o in his uniform, darkblue and gold, we in mantillas. The church looked very splendid, and, asusual on these occasions, no _léperos_ were admitted, therefore the crowdwas very elegant and select. The affair went off brilliantly. Four or fiveof the girls, and several of the married women, have superb voices; and notone of all those who sang in chorus had a bad voice. The finest I almostever heard is that of the Señorita C----. Were she to study in Italy, Iventure to predict that she might rival Grisi. Such depth, power, extension, and sweetness, with such richness of tone in the upper notes, are very rarely united. She sang a solo in such tones that I thought thepeople below must have been inclined to applaud. There are others whosevoices are much more cultivated, and who have infinitely more science. Ispeak only of the raw material. The orchestra was really good, and led by afirst-rate musician. I was thankful when my part of the entertainment wasover, and I could give an individual attention to the others. Thecelebration lasted four hours, but there was rather a long sermon. You willshortly receive a detailed account of the whole, which is to be publishedin the Mexican Annual, called "The Ladies' Guide. "

In the evening we went to the house of the Marquesa de V---o, to spend theChristmas-eve. On this night all the relations and intimate friends of eachfamily assemble in the house of the _head of the clan_, a real gathering, and in the present case to the number of fifty or sixty persons. 

This is the last night of what are called the _Posadas, _ a curious mixtureof religion and amusement, but extremely pretty. The meaning is this: Atthe time when the decree went forth from Caesar Augustus, that "all theworld should be taxed, " the Virgin and Joséph having come out of Galilee toJudaea to be inscribed for the taxation, found Bethlehem so full of people, who had arrived from all parts of the world, that they wandered about fornine days, without finding admittance in any house or tavern, and on theninth day took shelter in a manger, where the Saviour was born. For eightdays this wandering of the Holy Family to the different _Posadas_ isrepresented, and seems more intended for an amusement to the children thananything serious. We went to the Marquesa's at eight o'clock, and aboutnine the ceremony commenced. A lighted taper is put into the hand of eachlady, and a procession was formed, two by two, which marched all throughthe house, the corridors and walls of which were all decorated withevergreens and lamps, the whole party singing the Litanies. K----- walkedwith the dowager marquesa; and a group of little children, dressed asangels, joined the procession. They wore little robes of silver or goldlama, plumes of white feathers, and a profusion of fine diamonds, andpearls, in _bandeaux_, brooches, and necklaces, white gauze wings, andwhite satin shoes, embroidered in gold. 

At last the procession drew up before a door, and a shower of fireworks wassent flying over our heads, I suppose to represent the descent of theangels; for a group of ladies appeared, dressed to represent the shepherdswho watched their flocks by night upon the plains of Bethlehem. Thenvoices, supposed to be those of Mary and Joséph, struck up a hymn, in whichthey begged for admittance, saying that the night was cold and dark, thatthe wind blew hard, and that they prayed for a night's shelter. A chorus ofvoices from within refused admittance. Again those without entreatedshelter, and at length declared that she at the door, who thus wandered inthe night, and had not where to lay her head, was the Queen of Heaven! Atthis name the doors were thrown wide open, and the Holy Family enteredsinging. The scene within was very pretty: a _nacimiento_. Platforms, goingall round the room, were covered with moss, on which were disposed groupsof wax figures, generally representing passages from different parts of theNew Testament, though sometimes they begin with Adam and Eve in paradise. There was the Annunciation--the Salutation of Mary to Elizabeth--the WiseMen of the East--the Shepherds--the Flight into Egypt. There were greentrees and fruit trees, and little fountains that cast up fairy columns ofwater, and flocks of sheep, and a little cradle in which to lay the InfantChrist. One of the angels held a waxen baby in her arms. The whole waslighted very brilliantly, and ornamented with flowers and garlands. A padretook the baby from the angel, and placed it in the cradle, and the posadawas completed. We then returned to the drawing-room--angels, shepherds, andall, and danced till suppertime. The supper was a show for sweetmeats andcakes. 

Today, with the exception of there being no service in all the churches, Christmas is not kept in any remarkable way. We are spending this eveningalone, and very quietly. Tomorrow we have a _soirée_. I have letters fromC---n, from Cuernavaca, delighted with the beauties of _tierra caliente_, and living amongst roses and orange trees. I hope that in January we shallbe able to go there, in case anything should occur to induce us to leaveMexico before next winter. 

27th. --We had a very crowded party last evening, I think the best we havehad yet, a fact which I mention, because I triumph in my opinion that theseweekly parties would succeed in Mexico having proved correct. I have latelybeen engaged in search of a _cook_, with as much pertinacity as Japhet insearch of his father, and with as little success as he had in hispreliminary inquiries. One, a Frenchman, I found out had been tried formurder--another was said to be deranged--a third, who announced himself asthe greatest _artiste_ who had yet condescended to visit Mexico, demanded asalary which he considered suitable to his abilities. I tried a femaleMexican, in spite of her flowing hair. She seemed a decent woman andtolerable cook; and, although our French housekeeper and prime Minister haddeserted us at our utmost need, we ventured to leave the house, and tospend the day at Tacubaya. On our return, found the whole establishmentunable to stand! Cook tipsy--soldiers ditto--galopine slightlyintoxicated--in short, the house taking care of itself--no _standing force_but the coachman and footman, who have been with us some time, and appearto be excellent servants. I am, however, promised a good Mexicanhousekeeper, and trust that some order will be established under hergovernment; also, a Chinese cook, with a _celestial_ character. . . . 

Letters from Spain, announcing the speedy arrival of a Secretary ofLegation and another attache. 

1st January, 1841. --A happy New Year to all! We began it by attending earlymass in San Francisco, about the cleanest church in Mexico, and mostfrequented by the better classes. There you may have the good fortune toplace yourself between two well-dressed women, but you are equally likelyto find your neighbour a beggar with a blanket; besides, the floor isnearly as dirty as that of the cathedral. This dirtiness is certainly oneof the greatest drawbacks to human felicity in this beautiful country, degrading the noble edifices dedicated to the worship of God, destroyingthe beautiful works destined for the benefit of his creatures. The streets, the churches, the theatres, the market-place, the people, all arecontaminated by this evil. The market-place is indeed full of flowers andgreen branches and garlands--but those who sell the flowers and weave thewreaths are so dirty, that the effect of what would otherwise be theprettiest possible picture, is completely destroyed. In the theatre thereis a series of suffocating odours, especially in the dimly-lightedcorridors, which is anything but agreeable. The custom of kneeling on thefloor in church seems fitting and devout, but there surely can be no reasonwhy the floor of a sacred building should not be kept scrupulously clean, or why the lower classes should not be obliged to dress themselves withcommon decency. Those who are unable to do so, though probably there arenot half a dozen people in Mexico who do not wear rags merely fromindolence, should certainly have a place set apart for them, in which casethis air of squalid poverty would no doubt disappear. On occasion of anypeculiar fête, the church is washed and beggars are excluded, and thenindeed these noble edifices seem fitting temples wherein to worship theMost High. 

On other days, in addition to the léperos (especially in the cathedral), the Indian women are in the habit of bringing their babies and baskets ofvegetables to church, and the babies on their part are in the habit ofscreaming, as babies will when they consider themselves neglected. This maybe difficult to amend, the poor woman having come in from her village, andperforce brought her progeny with her; but the strong, stout man in rags, who prefers begging to working--the half-naked woman who would considerherself degraded by doing anything to better her condition, except askingfor alms--the dogs which wander up and down during divine service, --allthese might be brought to order by proper regulations. 

Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, I have sometimes compared, in my ownmind, the appearance of a fashionable London chapel with that of a Mexicanchurch, on the occasion of a solemn fête, and the comparison is certainlyin favour of the latter. The one, light, airy, and gay, with itsvelvet-lined pews, its fashionable preacher, the ladies a little sleepyafter the last night's opera, but dressed in the most elegant morningtoilet, and casting furtive glances at Lady -----'s bonnet and feathers, and at Mrs. -----'s cashmere shawl or lovely ermine pelisse, and exchanginga few fashionable nothings at the door, as the footmen let down the stepsof their gay equipages--the other, solemn, stately, and gloomy, and showingno distinction of rank. The floor covered with kneeling figures--someenveloped in the reboso, others in the mantilla, and all alike devout, atleast in outward seeming. No showy dress, or gay bonnet, or fashionablemantle to cause the eye of the poor to wander with envy or admiration. Apparently considering themselves alike in the sight of Heaven, the peasantand the marquesa kneel side by side, with little distinction of dress; andall appear occupied with their own devotions, without observing eithertheir neighbour's dress or degree of devoutness. Religious feeling may beequally strong in the frequenters of both places of worship; but as long aswe possess senses which can be affected by external objects, theprobabilities of the most undivided devotional feeling are in favour of thelatter. The eye will wander--the thoughts will follow where it leads. Inthe one case it rests on elegant forms and fashionable toilets--in theother, it sees nothing but a mass of dark and kneeling figures, or arepresentation of holy and scriptural subjects. 

However, one consequence of the exceeding dirtiness of the Mexicanchurches, and the number of léperos who haunt them, as much in the way oftheir calling as from devotion, is that a great part of the principalfamilies here, having oratorios in their houses, have engaged the servicesof a padre, and have mass at home. There is a small chapel in the house ofGeneral B---a, the handsomest house in Mexico, where there is a virgincarved in wood, one of the most exquisite pieces of sculpture that can beseen. The face is more than angelic--it is divine; but a divine nature, suffering mortal anguish. 

27th. --On the first of February we hope to set off on an expedition to_tierra caliente, _ from which C---n returned some time ago. We have, bygood fortune, procured an excellent Mexican housekeeper, under whoseauspices everything has assumed a very different aspect, and to whose carewe can intrust the house when we go. Nothing remarkable has occurred herelately--the usual routine of riding on horseback, visiting in carriage, walking very rarely in the Alameda, driving in the Paseo, dining atTacubaya, the three weekly _soirées, _ varied by a diplomatic dinner in thehouse of the ----- Minister, and by the dinner of the English club who methere yesterday--by a sale of books after dinner, in which the president ofthe society fined me five dollars for keeping a stupid old poem past thetime, upon which I _moved_ that the poem should be presented to me, whichwas carried _nem_. _con_. 

We have been strongly advised not to attempt this journey, and the storiesof robbers and robberies, related by credible persons, are not encouraging. Robbers, bad roads, horrible heat, poisonous animals; many are thedifficulties prognosticated to us. The season is already rather advanced, but it has been impossible for us to set off sooner. Our next letters willbe written either during our journey, should we find the opportunity, orafter our return. 

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST

Leave Mexico--Cuernavaca--_Tierra Caliente_--_Atlacamulco_--OrangeGroves--Sugar-cane--Annual Produce--Will of Cortes--Description--CoffeePlantation--Scorpions--List of Venemous Reptiles--_Acapansingo_--Doubts andDifficulties--A Decision. 

ATLACAMULCO, February 2nd. 

A quiet day in a hospitable country-house, too sunny to go out, and nothingelse to do, are temptations sufficient to induce me to sit down and giveyou an account of our proceedings during these last two days. Yesterday, the first of February, at four in the morning, very sleepy, we set off inthe diligence which we had taken for ourselves; our sole luggage, twoportmanteaus and a carpet bag; our dresses, dark strong calico gowns, largePanama hats, rebosos tied on like scarfs, and thick green barege veils. Agovernment escort of four soldiers with a corporal, renewed four times, accompanied us as far as Cuernavaca, which is about eighteen leagues fromMexico, and the entrance as it were to _tierra caliente_. These aresupposed sufficient to frighten away three times the number of robbers, whose daring, however, has got to such a height, that no diligence nowarrives from Puebla without being robbed. Six robberies have happened therein the last fortnight, and the road to Cuernavaca is said to be still moredangerous. We took chocolate before starting, and carried with us a basketof cold meat and wine, as there is nothing on the road that can be calledan inn. When we set off it was cool, almost cold; the astral lamps wereout, and the great solar lamp was not yet lighted. 

 "But soon, like lobster boiled, the morn, From black to red began to turn. "

By the time we had reached San Agustin, where we changed horses, the sunhad risen, enabling us to see all the horrors of the road, which, afterleaving that beautiful village with its trees and gardens, winds over themountain, amongst great volcanic rocks, a toilsome ascent; and passes bythe village of Ajusco, a miserable robber's nest. Yet the view, as welooked back from this barren tract, while the sun was breaking over thesummits of the mountains, was very grand in its mixture of fertility andwildness, in its vast extent of plains and villages with their groves andgardens, and in its fine view of Mexico itself, white and glittering in thedistance. The mountain of Ajusco, clothed with dark forests of pine, frowned on our right, and looked worthy of its brigand haunted reputation. At La Guarda, a collection of miserable huts, we changed horses, anddeclined some suspicious-looking frijoles in dirty saucers, which wereoffered to us; a proof both that we were young travellers in this country, and that we had not exhausted our basket of civilized provender. 

The road wound round through a succession of rocks and woods till wereached _Cruz del Marques_--the Marquis being of course Cortes, while thecross, it is said, was planted there by him to mark the limits of histerritory, or rather of that which the Indian Emperor had assigned him. About two o'clock the heat became intense, and we began to see and to feelsymptoms of our approach to _tierra caliente_. 

We arrived at the Indian village of _Huichilaque_, which is rather pretty, with cane cottages and a good many flowering trees; and from the eminenceon which it is situated, the _hot land_ is visible. 

The diligence now began galloping down the rocky and stony descent. Thecountry looked even more arid than before; the vegetation more dried up. Not a tree--but here and there, at long intervals, a feathery cocoa or apalm, and occasionally some beautiful, unknown wild flowers. But the heat, the dust, the jolting! When at length we rattled through Cuernavaca, andstopped before the quiet-looking inn, it was with joy that we bade adieu, for some time at least, to all diligences, coaches, and carriages; havingto trust for the future to four-legged conveyances, which we can guide aswe please. 

Cuernavaca (_cow's horn_), the ancient Quauhnahuac, was one of the thirtycities which Charles the Fifth gave to Cortes, and afterwards formed partof the estates of the Duke of Monteleone, representative of the family ofCortes, as Marquis of the Valley of Oajaca. It was celebrated by theancient writers for its beauty, its delightful climate, and the strength ofits situation; defended on one side by steep mountains, and on the other bya precipitous ravine, through which ran a stream which the Spaniardscrossed by means of two great trees that had thrown their branches acrossthe barranca, and formed a natural bridge. It was the capital of theTlahuica nation, and, after the conquest, Cortes built here a splendidpalace, a church, and a convent of Franciscans, believing that he had laidthe foundation of a great city. And in fact, its delicious climate, theabundance of the water, the minerals said to exist in the neighbourhood, its fine trees, delicious fruits, and vicinity to the capital, all combinedto render it a flourishing city. It is, however, a place of littleimportance, though so favoured by nature; and the conqueror's palace is ahalf-ruined barrack, though a most picturesque object, standing on a hill, behind which starts up the great white volcano. There are some good houses, and the remains of the church which Cortes built, celebrated for its boldarch; but we were too tired to walk about much, and waited most anxiouslyfor the arrival of horses and men from the sugar estate of Don AnselmoZurutuza, at Atlacamulco; where we were to pass the night. The house wherethe diligence stopped was formerly remarkable for the fine garden attachedto it, and belonged to a wealthy proprietor. We sat down amongst the fruittrees, by the side of a clear tank, and waited there till the arrival ofour horses and guides. It was nearly dusk when they came--the sun had gonedown, the evening was cool and agreeable, and after much kicking andspurring and loading of mules and barking of dogs, we set off over hill anddale, through pretty wild scenery, as far as we could distinguish by thefaint light, climbing hills and crossing streams for two leagues; till atlength the fierce fires, pouring from the sugar oven chimneys ofAtlacamulco, gave us notice that we were near our haven for the night. Wegalloped into the courtyard, amongst dogs and negroes and Indians, and werehospitably received by the administrador (the agent). Greatly were wedivided between sleep and hunger; but hunger gained the victory, and animmense smoking supper received our most distinguished attention. 

This morning, after a refreshing sleep, we rose and dressed at eighto'clock--late hours for _tierra caliente_--and then went out into thecoffee plantation and orange walk. Anything so lovely! The orange-treeswere covered with their golden fruit and fragrant blossom; the lemon-trees, bending over, formed a natural arch, which the sun could not pierce. Welaid ourselves down on the soft grass, contrasting this day with thepreceding. The air was soft and balmy, and actually heavy with thefragrance of the orange blossom and starry jasmine. All round the orchardran streams of the most delicious clear water, trickling with sweet music, and now and then a little cardinal, like a bright red ruby, would perch onthe trees. We pulled bouquets of orange blossom, jasmines, lilies, doublered roses, and lemon leaves, and wished we could have transported them toyou, to those lands where winter is now wrapping the world in his whitewinding-sheet. 

The gardener, or coffee-planter--such a gardener!--Don Juan by name, withan immense black beard, Mexican hat, and military sash of crimson silk, came to offer us some orangeade; and having sent to the house for sugar andtumblers, pulled the oranges from the trees, and drew the water from aclear tank overshadowed by blossoming branches, and cold as though it hadbeen iced. There certainly is no tree more beautiful than the orange, withits golden fruit, shining green leaves and lovely white blossom with sodelicious a fragrance. We felt this morning as if Atlacamulco was anearthly paradise. 

It belongs in fact to the Duke of Monteleone, and is let by his agent, DonLuis Alaman, to Señor Zurutuza. Its average annual produce of silver isabout thirty thousand _arrobas_, (an arroba containing twenty-five pounds). The sugar-cane was unknown to the ancient Mexicans, who made syrup ofhoney, and also from the maguey, and sugar from the stalk of maize. Thesugar-cane was introduced by the Spaniards from the Canary Islands to SantoDomingo, from whence it passed to Cuba and Mexico. The first sugar-caneswere planted in 1520, by Don Pedro de Atienza. The first cylinders wereconstructed by Gonzalo de Velosa, and the first sugar mills built by theSpaniards at that time were worked by hydraulic wheels and not by horses. M. De Humboldt, who examined the will of Cortes, informs us that theconqueror had left sugar plantations near Cuyoacan, in the valley ofMexico, where now, owing, it is supposed, to the cutting down of the trees, the cold is too great for sugar-cane or any other tropical production tothrive. There are few negroes on these sugar plantations. Their numbershave not increased since their introduction. We observed but one old negro, said to be upwards of a hundred, who was working in the courtyard as wepassed; the generality of the workmen are Indians. 

As for the interior of these haciendas, they are all pretty much alike, sofar as we have seen; a great stone building, which is neither farm norcountry-house (according to our notions), but has a character peculiar toitself--solid enough to stand a siege, with floors of painted brick, largedeal tables, wooden benches, painted chairs, and whitewashed walls; one ortwo painted or iron bedsteads, only put up when wanted; numberless emptyrooms; kitchen and outhouses; the courtyard a great square, round whichstand the house for boiling the sugar, whose furnaces blaze day and night;the house, with machinery for extracting the juice from the cane, therefining rooms, the places where it is dried, etc. , all on a large scale. If the hacienda is, as here, a coffee plantation also, then there is thegreat mill for separating the beans from the chaff, and sometimes alsothere are buildings where they make brandy. Here there are four hundred menemployed, exclusive of boys, one hundred horses, and a number of mules. Theproperty is generally very extensive, containing the fields of sugar-cane, plains for cattle, and the pretty plantations of coffee, so green andspring-like, this one containing upwards of fifty thousand young plants, all fresh and vigorous, besides a great deal of uncultivated ground, abandoned to the deer and hares and quails, of which there are greatabundance. For four months in the year, _tierra caliente_ must be aparadise, and it has the advantage over the coasts, in being quite freefrom yellow fever. But the heat in summer, and the number of poisonousinsects, are great drawbacks. Of these, the _alacrans_, or scorpions, whichhaunt all the houses, are amongst the worst. Their bite is poisonous, and, to a child, deadly, which is one of the many reasons why these estates areleft entirely to the charge of an agent, and though visited occasionally bythe proprietor, rarely lived in by the family. The effects are more or lessviolent in different constitutions. Some persons will remain for eight daysin convulsions, foaming at the mouth, and the stomach swelled, as if bydropsy; others, by immediate remedies, do not suffer much. The chief curesare brandy, taken in sufficient quantities to stupefy the patient, guyacumand boiled silk, which last is considered most efficacious. In Durango theyare particularly numerous and venomous, so that a reward in given for somany _head_ of scorpions to the boys there, to encourage them to destroythem. The Señora -----, who lives there, feels no inconvenience from theirbite, but the scorpion who bites her immediately dies! It is pretended thatthey prefer dark people to fair, which is to suppose them verydiscriminating. Though as yet there have been few seen in the houses, Imust confess that we feel rather uneasy at night, and scrupulously examineour beds and their environs before venturing to go to sleep. The wallsbeing purposely whitewashed, it is not difficult to detect them; but wherethe roofs are formed of beams, they are very apt to drop through. 

There are other venomous reptiles, for whose sting there is no remedy, andif you would like to have a list of these interesting creatures, accordingto the names by which they are known in these parts, I can furnish you withone from the best authority. These, however, are generally to be foundabout outhouses, and only occasionally visit your apartments. There is the_chicaclina_, a striped viper, of beautiful colours--the _coralillo_, aviper of a coral colour, with a black head--the _vinagrillo_, an animallike a large cricket. You can discover it, when in the room, by its strongsmell of vinegar. It is orange-coloured, and taps upon the person whom itcrawls over, without giving any pain, but leaving a long train of deadlypoison--I have fancied that I smelt vinegar in every room since hearingthis--the _salamanquesa_, whose bite is fatal: it is shaped like alizard--the _eslaboncillo_, which throws itself upon you, and if preventedfrom biting you, dies of spite--the _cencoatl_, which has five feet, andshines in the dark; so that fortunately a warning is given of the vicinityof these animals in different ways; in some by the odour they exhale, insome by the light they emit, and in others, like the rattlesnake, by thesound they give out. 

Then there is a beautiful black and red spider, called the _chinclaquili_, whose sting sends a pain through all your bones; the only cure for which isto be shut up for several days in a room thick with smoke. There are alsothe _tarantula_ and _casampulga_ spiders. Of the first, which is ashocking-looking soft fat creature, covered with dark hair, it is said thatthe horse which treads on it instantly loses its hoof--but this wantsconfirmation. Of the scorpions, the small yellowish coloured ones are themost dangerous, and it is pretended that their bite is most to beapprehended at midday. The workmen occasionally eat them, after pulling outthe sting. The flesh of the viper is also eaten roasted, as a remedyagainst eruptions of the skin. Methinks the remedy is worse than thedisease. . . . 

But to banish this _creeping_ subject, which seems not at all in unisonwith the lovely scenes that surround us--an Eden where no serpent shouldenter--we have been riding this evening to a beautiful little Indianvillage called _Acapansingo_, than which I never beheld anything prettierin its way. Some few houses there are of stone, but the generality are ofcane, and each cottage is surrounded by its fruit-trees, and by otherscovered with lilac or white blossoms, and twined with creepers. The lanesor streets of the village are cleanly swept, and shaded by the blossomingbranches that overhang them; while every now and then they are crossed bylittle streams of the purest water. I think I never knew what reallydelicious water was till I came here. The Indians, both men and women, looked clean, and altogether this is the prettiest Indian village we haveyet seen. 

As we are very anxious to visit the celebrated cave of Cacauamilpa, nearthe city of Cautlamilpa, and also to see as much of _tierra caliente_ aspossible, we have determined, though with regret, to leave our presentquarters at Atlacamulto to-morrow morning, at two o'clock A. M. As there areno inns, we are furnished with letters of recommendation to the proprietorsof the chief haciendas in these parts. Formerly there was so muchhospitality here, that an annual sum (three thousand dollars it is said)was assigned by the proprietors to their agents, for the reception oftravellers, whether rich or poor, and whether recommended or not. . . . 

Our plan of visiting the cave has been nearly frustrated by the arrival ofGeneral C---s, a neighbouring proprietor, who assured us that we were goingto undertake an impossibility; that the barrancas, by which we must pass toarrive at the cave, were impassable for women, the mountain paths being sosteep and perpendicular, that men and horses had frequently fallenbackwards in the ascent, or been plunged forward over the precipices, inattempting to descend. We were in despair, when it was suggested that therewas another, though much longer road to the cave, by which we might ride;and though our time is at present very precious, we were too glad to agreeto this compromise. 

C---n and A---- have returned from a shooting expedition, in which theyhave not been very successful; and though I have only recounted to you thebeginning of our adventures, I must stop here, and take a few hours' restbefore we set off on our _matinal_ expedition. 

LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND

Leave _Atlacamulco_--Assemble by Starlight--Balmy Atmosphere--Flowers andTrees of the Tropics--The Formidable _Barrancas_--_Breakfast under theTrees_--Force of the Sun--_Meacatlan_--Hospitality--ProfitableEstate--Leave Meacatlan--Beautiful Village--Musical Bells--Ride byMoonlight--Sugar Fires--Cocoyotla--_Old Gentleman_--Supper--Orange-treesand Cocoas--Delicious Water--Sugar Estates--A Scorpion--Set off for theCave--Morning Ride--Dangerous Path

Cocoyotla, 5th. 

On the morning of the third of February we rose about half-past two, and alittle after three, by the light of the stars and the blaze of the sugarfires, our whole party were assembled on horseback in the courtyard. Wewere about twelve in number. Don Juan, the coffee-planter, and Don Pedro, afriend of his, were deputed by the agent to act as our guides. Four or fivewell-armed _mozos_, farmservants, were our escort, together with ourMexican boy; and we had mules to carry our luggage, which was compressedinto the smallest possible compass. The morning was perfectly enchanting, and the air like balm, when we set off by this uncertain light; not onroads (much to our satisfaction), but through fields, and over streams, uphills and down into valleys, climbing among stones, the horses pickingtheir way like goats. I certainly never felt or imagined such anatmosphere. The mere inhaling it was sufficient pleasure. 

When the light gradually began to dawn, so that we could discern eachother's faces, and made sure that we were not a party of shadows, forbesides the obscurity, a mixture of sleepiness and placid delight hadhitherto kept us all silent, we looked round on the landscape, as little bylittle it assumed form and consistency. The fires from the hacienda werestill visible, but growing pale in the beams of morning, vanishing likefalse visions from before the holy light of truth. As we rode along, wefound that the scenery on the hilly parts was generally bleak and sterile, the grass dried up, and very little vegetation; but wherever we arrived ata valley sheltered from the sun's rays, there we found a little rivulettrickling through it, with water like liquid diamonds, bathing the treesand the flowers--the loveliest blossoming trees, mingled with bananas, oranges, and lemons, and interspersed with bright flowers, forming anatural garden and orchard. 

One tree, with no leaves on it, is covered with white starry flowers, andlooks at a distance as if it had been covered with snow, which had meltedoff the branches, leaving only occasional white tufts. Another is bendingwith lilac blossoms, which hang in graceful clusters--another with flowerslike yellow balls. Then there are scarlet wild flowers, that seem as ifthey were made of wax or shining coral, and quantities of white jasmine, trailing on the grass, and throwing itself over the branches of the trees. There is one beautiful tree, with flowers like immense white lilies, andbuds that look like shut lily blossoms in white wax. 

Leaving these beautiful and fertile lands that adorn the slopes and basesof the hills, you mount again up the steep paths, and again you find thegrass dried up, and no vegetation but stunted nopals or miserable-lookingblue-green magueys. Yet sometimes in the most desert spot, a littlesheltered by a projecting hill, you come upon the most beautiful tree, bending with rich blossoms, standing all alone, as if through ambition ithad deserted its lowly sisters in the valley, and stood, in its exaltedstation, solitary and companionless. 

As for the names of these tropical trees, they are almost all Indian, andit is only _botanically_ that they can be properly distinguished. There isthe _floripundio_, with white odoriferous flowers hanging like bells fromits branches, with large pointed pale-green leaves--the _yollojochitl_, signifying flower of the heart, like white stars with yellow hearts, whichwhen shut have the form of one, and the fragrance of which isdelicious--the _isgujochitl_, whose flowers look like small whitemusk-roses--another with a long Indian name, and which means the flower ofthe raven, and is white, red, and yellow. The Indians use it to adorn theiraltars, and it is very fragrant as well as beautiful. 

After six hours'good riding, our guides pointed out to us the formidablebarrancas at some distance, and expressed their opinion, that, with greatcaution, our horses being very sure-footed, we might venture to pass them, by which means we should save three leagues, and be enabled to reach anhacienda within six leagues of the cave that night; and after somedeliberation, it was agreed that the attempt should be made. Thesebarrancas (the word literally means a ravine or mountain gully) are twomountains, one behind the other, which it is necessary to cross by a narrowpath, that looks like a road for goats. We began the ascent in silence, andsome fear, one by one till the horses were nearly perpendicular. It lastedabout twenty minutes; and we then began to descend slowly, certainly notwithout some danger of being thrown over our horses' heads. However, wearrived in safety at the end of the first mountain, and this beingaccomplished, drew up to rest our horses and mules beside a beautiful clearstream, bordered by flowering trees. Here some clear-headed individual ofthe party proposed that we should open our hamper, containing cold chicken, hand eggs, sherry, etc. ; observing, that it was time to be hungry. Hissuggestion was agreed to without a dissenting voice, and a napkin beingspread under a shady tree, no time was lost in proving the truth of hisobservation. A very ingenious contrivance for making a wine-glass, bywashing an egg-shell in the stream, is worthy of record. When we haddemolished the cold chicken, the mozos surrounded the cold meat, and aftergathering branches covered with beautiful flowers, with which we ornamentedour horses' heads and our own hats, we prepared to ascend the secondmountain. This is as steep, or nearly as steep as the first; but we werealready confident in the sure-footedness of our horses, and even able toadmire the view as we ascended single file. After much rain, this path mustof course be completely impassable. The day had now become oppressivelywarm, though it was not later than eleven o'clock; and having passed thehills, we came to a dusty high-road, which, about twelve, brought us to thehacienda of Meacatlan, belonging to the family of Perez Palacio. We wereovertaken on the road by the eldest son of the proprietor, who cordiallyinvited us in, and introduced us to the ladies of his family, and to hisfather, a fine, noble-looking old gentleman. As we were excessively tired, hot, and dusty, we were very glad to spend a few hours here during the heatof the sun; and after joining the family at breakfast, consisting of themost extraordinary variety of excellent dishes, with a profusion of finefruits and curious sweetmeats (amongst which was that ethereal-lookingproduction, called _angel's hair, cabella de angel_), we were glad to liedown and rest till four o'clock. 

This hacienda is very productive and valuable, and has a silver mine on it. 

There is also every variety of fine fruit, especially the largest _cedrats_I ever saw; which, although they have not a great deal of flavour, are veryrefreshing. With all their beauty and fertility, there is something verylonely in a residence on these estates, which are so entirely shut out ofthe world; not so much for the proprietors themselves, who are occupied inthe care of their interests, but for the female part of the family. 

We left this hospitable mansion about four o'clock, rested and refreshed, the proprietor giving K---- a horse of his, instead of her own, which wastired. The sun was still powerful, when we and our train remounted, but theevening had become delightfully cool, by the time that we had reached thebeautiful village of San Francisco de Tetecala, lying amongst wooded hills, its white houses gleaming out from amidst the orange-trees, with a smallriver crossed by bridges running through it. Many of the houses weretolerably large and well built. It was a fête-day, and the musical bellsringing merrily; the people were clean and well dressed, and were assembledin crowds in an enclosure, looking at a bull-fight, which must be hot workin this climate, both for man and beast. 

But when the moon rose serenely, and without a cloud, and a soft breeze, fragrant with orange blossom, blew gently over the trees, I felt as if wemight have rode on for ever, without fatigue, and in a state of the mostperfect enjoyment. It were hard to say whether the first soft breath ofmorning, or the languishing and yet more fragrant airs of evening were mostenchanting. Sometimes we passed through a village of scattered Indian huts, with little fires of sticks lighted in their courts, glowing on the bronzefaces of the women and children; and at the sound of our horses' hoofs, achorus of dogs, yelping with most discordant fury, would give us loudnotice of their total disapprobation of all night travellers. Sometimes adecided smell of boiled sugar was mingled with the fragrance of the orangeblossom and jasmine; reminding us of those happy days of yore, when thehousekeeper in all her glory, was engaged in making her annual stock ofjellies and jams. 

Once we were obliged to dismount, that our horses might make an _ugly leap_over a great ditch guarded by thorny bushes, and amongst trees where themoon gave us no light. 

About ten o'clock symptoms of weariness began to break out amongst us, spite of moonbeams and orange-buds; when down in a valley we saw the sugarfires of _Cocoyotla_, the hacienda to which we trusted for our next placeof shelter, darting out their fierce red tongues amongst the trees. Weknocked for admittance at the great gate, and it was some time before thepeople within would undo the fastenings, which they did with great caution, and after carefully reconnoitring us; afterwards giving for excuse, that aparty of thirty robbers had passed by the night before, and that theythought we might have been some of these _night-errants_. We sent in ourcredentials to the proprietor, an old gentleman married to a young wife, who, living on the road to the cave, is by no means pleased at his housebeing turned into a posada for all and sundry, and complained bitterly of aparty of Englishmen who had passed by some time before, "and the only_Spanish_ word they could say, was _Vater_, by which they meant _Agua_, Caramba!" However, he was very hospitable to us, and pressed us to remainthere the following day, and rest ourselves and our horses after ourfourteen leagues march, previous to going on to the cave. 

A very good supper and a very sound sleep were refreshing, and the whole ofthe next day we spent in wandering about or sitting lazily amongst themagnificent orange-trees and cocoas of this fine hacienda. Here theorange-trees are the loftiest we had yet seen; long ranges of noble trees, loaded with fruit and flowers. At the back of the house is a small grove ofcocoas, and a clear running stream passing through beautiful flowers, andrefreshing everything in its course. Indeed all through _tierra caliente_, except on the barren hills, there is a profusion of the most deliciouswater, here at once a necessity and a luxury. 

These sugar estates are under high cultivation, the crops abundant, thewater always more than sufficient both for the purposes of irrigation andfor machinery, which A---- considers equal to anything he has seen inJamaica. They produce annually from thirty to fifty thousand _arrobas_ ofsugar. The labourers are free Indians, and are paid from two and a half tosix and a half reals per day. I believe that about one hundred and fiftyare sufficient for working on a large estate. Bountiful nature, walking onthe traces of civil war, fills up the ravages caused by sanguinaryrevolutions, and these estates in the valley of Cuernavaca, which have sofrequently been theatres of bloodshed, and have so often changedproprietors, remain in themselves as fertile and productive as ever. 

In the evening we visited the _trapiche_, as they call the sugar-works, thesugar-boilers, warehouses, store-rooms, and engines. The heat is so intenseamong these great boilers, that we could not endure it for more than a fewminutes, and pitied the men who have to spend their lives in this work. They make _panoja_ on this estate, cakes of coarse sugar, which the commonpeople prefer to the refined sugar. 

Just as we were preparing to retire for the night, an animal on the wallattracted our attention, close by K----'s bed--and, gentle reader! it was ascorpion! We gave a simultaneous cry, which brought Señor ----- into theroom, who laughed at our fears, and killed our foe; when lo! just as ourfright had passed away, another, a yellowish-coloured, venomous-lookingcreature, appeared stealing along the wall. The lady of the house came thistime, and ordered the room and the beds to be searched. No more could bediscovered, but it was difficult to sleep in peace after such anapparition. 

At three the next morning we rose, and set off by moon and starlight forthe cave. The morning was lovely as usual, and quite cool. We passed agreat deal of barren and hilly road, till we reached some plains, where wehad a delightful gallop, and arrived early at a small rancho, or farmhouse, where we were to procure guides for the cave. Here we added four Indians, and the master of the house, _Benito_, to our party, which was afterwardsincreased by numbers of men and boys, till we formed a perfect regiment. This little rancho, with its small garden, was very clean and neat. Thewoman of the house told us she had seen no ladies since an English_Ministra_ had slept there two nights. We concluded that this must havebeen Mrs. Ashburnham, who spent two days in exploring the cave. Wecontinued our ride over loose stones, and dry, rocky hills, where, were thehorses not sure-footed, and used to climb, the riders' necks would no doubtsuffer. Within about a quarter of a mile of the cave, after leaving on ourright the pretty village of Cautlamilpas, we found ourselves in a placewhich I consider much more dangerous than even the barrancas near_Meacatlan_; a narrow path, overhanging a steep precipice, and bordering aperpendicular hill, with just room for the horses' feet, affording thecomfortable assurance that one false step would precipitate you to thebottom. I confess to having held my breath, as one by one, and step bystep, no one looking to the right or the left, our gowns occasionallycatching on a bush, with our whole train we wound slowly down this narrowdescent. Arrived near the mouth of the cave, we dismounted, and climbed ourway among stones and gravel to the great mountain opening. But an accountof the cave itself must be reserved till our return to Atlacamulco. 

LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD

Cave of _Cacahuamilpa_--Superstition--Long-bearded Goat--Portal--Vestibule--Fantastic Forms--Breakfast--Pine Torches--Noble Hall--Stalactites and Stalagmites--Egyptian Pyramids--Double Gallery--WonderfulFormations--Corridor--Frozen Landscape--Amphitheatre--World in Chaos--Skeleton--Wax Lights--Hall of Angels--Return--Distant Light--IndianAlcalde--_Cautlamilpas_--Rancho--Return to Cocoyotla--Chapel--Meacatlan--Eclipse of the Moon--Benighted Travellers--Indian Village--_El Puente_--Return to _Atlacamulco_. 

ATLACAMULCO, 7th. 

The cave of Cacahuamilpa, whose actual wonders equal the fableddescriptions of the palaces of Genii, was, until lately, known to theIndians alone, or if the Spaniards formerly knew anything about it, itsexistence was forgotten amongst them. But although in former days it mayhave been used as a place of worship, a superstitious fear prevented themore modern Indians from exploring its shining recesses, for here it wasfirmly believed the evil spirit had his dwelling, and in the form of agoat, with long beard and horns, guarded the entrance of the cave. The fewwho ventured there and beheld this apparition, brought back strange talesto their credulous companions, and even the neighbourhood of the enchantedcave was avoided, especially at nightfall. 

The chain of mountains, into whose bosom it leads, is bleak and bare, butthe ravine below is refreshed by a rapid stream, that forms smallwaterfalls as it tumbles over the rocks, and is bordered by green andflowering trees. Amongst these, is one with a smooth, satin-like bark, of apale golden colour, whose roots have something snakish and witch-like intheir appearance, intertwining with each other, grappling as it were withthe hard rock, and stretching out to the most extraordinary distance. 

We arrived at the entrance of the cave, a superb portal, upwards of seventyfeet high, and one hundred and fifty wide, according to the computation ofa learned traveller--the rocks which support the great arch sosymmetrically disposed as to resemble a work of art. The sun was alreadyhigh in the heavens, shining with intense brightness on the wild scenerythat surrounded us, the rocks and trees and rushing waters; a sensation ofawe came over us as we stood at the mouth of the cave, and, turning fromday to night, strained our eyes to look down a deep descent into a giganticvaulted hall, faintly lighted by the red embers of a fire which the Indianshad kindled near the entrance. We made our way down a declivity of, it maybe, one hundred and fifty feet, surrounded by blocks of stone and rock, andremained lost in astonishment at finding ourselves in this gloomysubterranean palace, surrounded by the most extraordinary, gigantic, andmysterious forms, which it is scarcely possible to believe are thefantastic productions of the water which constantly trickles from the roof. 

I am shocked to confess it--I would prefer passing it over--but we hadtasted nothing that morning, and we had rode for eight hours, and weredying of hunger! Moreover we travelled with a cook, a very tolerable nativeartist, but without sentiment--his heart in his stew-pan; and he, withoutthe least compunction, had begun his frying and broiling operations in whatseemed the very vestibule of Pharaoh's palace. Our own _mozos_ and ourIndian guides were assisting in its operations with the utmost zeal; and ina few minutes, some sitting round the fire, and others upon brokenpyramids, we refreshed ourselves with fried chicken, bread, and hard eggs, before proceeding farther on our exploring expedition. Unromantic as thisproceeding was, we looked, Indians and all, rather awful, with no otherlight than the ruddy glare of the fire, flickering upon the strange, gigantic forms in that vast labyrinth; and as to what we felt, our valourand strength of mind were increased sevenfold. 

Twenty-four huge pine torches were then lighted, each man carrying one. ToK---- and me were given lighted wax candles, in case by accident any oneshould go astray from his companions, and lose his way, as would toocertainly happen, in the different windings and galleries and compartmentsof the cave, and be alone in the darkness! We walked on in awe and wonder, the guides lighting up the sides of the cavern with their torches. Unfortunately, it is indescribable; as in the fantastic forms of theclouds, every one sees some different creation of his fancy in thesestupendous masses. It is said that the first _sala_, for travellers havepretended to divide it into halls, and a very little imagination may do so, is about two hundred feet long, one hundred and seventy wide, and onehundred and fifty in height--a noble apartment. The walls are shaded withdifferent colours of green and orange; great sheets of stalactites hangfrom the roof: and white phantoms, palm-trees, lofty pillars, pyramids, porches, and a thousand other illusions, surround us on all sides. Onefigure, concerning which all agree, is a long-haired goat, the Evil One inthat form. But some one has broken the head, perhaps to show thepowerlessness of the enchanted guardian of the cave. Some say that thereare no living animals here, but there is no doubt that there are bats; andan exploring party, who passed the night here, not only heard the hissingof the rattlesnake, but were startled by the apparition of a fierceleopard, whose loud roarings were echoed amongst the vaults, and who, aftergazing at them by the light of the torches, stalked majestically back intothe darkness. 

We passed on to the second _sala_, collecting as we went fragments of theshining stones, our awe and astonishment increasing at every step. Sometimes we seemed to be in a subterranean Egyptian temple. Thearchitecture was decidedly Egyptian, and the strange forms of the animalsresembled those of the uncouth Egyptian idols; which, together with thepyramids and obelisks, made me think, that perhaps that ancient people tookthe idea of their architecture and of many of their strange shapes fromsome natural cave of this description, just as nature herself suggested theidea of the beautiful Corinthian pillar. 

Again we seemed to enter a tract of country which had been petrified. Fountains of congealed water, trees hung with frozen moss, pillars coveredwith gigantic acanthus leaves, pyramids of ninety feet high losing theirlofty heads in the darkness of the vault, and looking like works of thepre-Adamites; yet no being but He who inhabits eternity could have createdthem. This second hall, as lofty as the other, may be nearly four hundredfeet in length. 

We then passed into a sort of double gallery, separated by enormouspyramidal formations--_stalagmites_, those which are formed by waterdropping on the earth. The ground was damp, and occasionally great dropstrickled on our heads from the vaults above. Here Gothic shrines, oddfigures; some that look like mummies, others like old men with long beards, appall us like figures that we see in some wild dream. These areintermingled with pyramids, obelisks, baths that seem made of the purestalabaster, etc. A number of small round balls, petrifactions of a deadwhite, lie about here, forming little hollows in the ground. Here the caveis very wide--about two hundred feet, it is said. 

When we left this double gallery, we came to another vast corridor, supported by lofty pillars, covered with creeping plants, but especiallywith a row of the most gigantic cauliflowers, each leaf delicatelychiseled, and looking like a fitting food for the colossal dwellers of thecavern. But to attempt anything like a regular description is out of thequestion. We gave ourselves up to admiration, as our torches flashed uponthe masses of rock, the hills crowned with pyramids, the congealed torrentsthat seem to belong to winter at the north pole, and the lofty Doriccolumns that bring us back to the pure skies of Greece. But amongst allthese curious _accidents_ produced by water, none is more curiouslyexquisite than an amphitheatre, with regular benches, surmounted by a greatorgan, whose pipes, when struck, give forth a deep sound. It is reallydifficult not to believe that some gigantic race once amused themselves inthese petrified solitudes, or that we have not invaded the sanctuary ofsome mysterious and superhuman beings. It is said that this cavern has beenexplored for four leagues, and yet that no exit has been discovered. As forus, I do not know how far we went: our guides said a league. It seemedimpossible to think of time when we looked at these great masses, formeddrop by drop, slowly and rarely and at distant intervals falling, andlooked back upon the ages that must have elapsed since these giganticformations began. 

At length, on account of the loose stones, the water, and the masses ofcrystal rock that we had to climb over, our guides strongly recommended usto return. It was difficult to turn away our eyes from the great unformedmasses that now seemed to fill the cave as far as the eye could reach. Itlooked like the world in chaos--nature's vast workshop, from which she drewthe materials which her hand was to reduce to form and order. We retracedour steps slowly and lingeringly through these subterranean palaces, feeling that one day was not nearly sufficient to explore them, yetthankful that we had not left the country without seeing them. The skeletonof a man was discovered here by some travellers, lying on his side, thehead nearly covered with crystallization. He had probably entered theselabyrinths alone, either from rash curiosity or to escape from pursuit;lost his way and perished from hunger. Indeed to find the way back to theentrance of the cave is nearly impossible, without some clue to guide thesteps amongst these winding galleries, halls, and issues and entries, anddivided corridors. 

Though there are some objects so striking that they may immediately berecognised, such as the amphitheatre for instance, there is a monotony evenin the variety! and I can imagine the unfortunate man wandering amongstobelisks and pyramids and alabaster baths and Grecian columns--amongstfrozen torrents that could not assuage his thirst, and trees with marblefruit and foliage, and crystal vegetables that mocked his hunger: and palephantoms with long hair and figures in shrouds, that could not relieve hisdistress--and then his cries for help, where the voice gives out an echo, as if all the pale dwellers in the cave answered in mockery--and then, historch becoming extinguished, and he lying down exhausted and in despairnear some inhospitable marble porch, to die. 

As we went along, our guides had climbed up and placed wax candles on thetop of all the highest points, so that their pale glimmering light pointedout the way to us on our return. The Indians begged they might be leftthere "on account of the blessed souls in purgatory, " which was done. As wereturned, we saw one figure we had not observed before, which lookssomething like a woman mounted on an enormous goat. To one hall, on accountof its beauty, some travellers have given the name of the "Hall of Angels. "It is said that, by observation, the height of the stalagmites mightdetermine the age of their formation, but where is the enterprisinggeologist who would shut himself up in these crystal solitudes sufficientlylong for correct observation?

I never saw or could have imagined so beautiful an effect as that of thedaylight in the distance, entering by the mouth of the cave; such a faintmisty blue, contrasted with the fierce red light of the torches, and brokenby the pillars through which its pale rays struggled. It looked so pure andholy, that it seemed like the light from an angel's wings at the portals ofthe "_cittá dolente_. " What would that poor traveller have given to haveseen its friendly rays! After climbing out and leaving the damp, coolsubterraneous air, the atmosphere felt dry and warm, as we sat down to restat the mouth of the cavern, surrounded by our Indian torch-bearers. Truly, nature is no coquette. She adorns herself with greater riches in thedarkest mountain cave, than on the highest mountain top. 

We were sitting in thoughtful silence, ourselves, Indians and all, in acircle, when we saw, stumping down the hill, in great haste, and apparentlyin great wrath, an Indian alcalde, with a thick staff in his hand, at whoseapproach the Indians looked awe-struck. He carried in his brown hand alarge letter, on which was written in great type; "_Al Señor dominante deesta caravana de gente_. " "To the Commander of this caravan of people!"This missive set forth that the justice of peace of the city of CuautlaAmilpas, begged to know by what right, by whose authority, and with whatintentions we had entered this cave, without permission from government;and desired the "_Señor dominante_" to appear forthwith before the saidjustice for contempt of his authority. The spelling of the letter was tooamusing. The Indians looked very much alarmed, and when they saw us laugh, still more astonished. C---n wrote with a pencil in answer to the summons, that he was the Spanish Minister, and wished good day to the alcalde, whoplodded up the hill again, very ill pleased. 

We now took leave of this prodigious subterranean palace, and again putourselves _en route_. Once more we wound our way round the brink of theprecipice, and this time it was more dangerous for us than before, for werode on the side next it, our gowns overhanging the brink, and if caught bya branch there, might have been dragged over. Our two guides afterwardssaid that if alone, they would have dismounted; but that as the ladies saidnothing, they did not like to propose it. 

Some day, no doubt, this cave will become a show-place, and measures willbe taken to render the approach to it less dangerous; but as yet, one ofits charms consists in its being unhackneyed. For, long after, itsrecollection rests upon the mind, like a marble dream. But, like Niagara, it cannot be described; perhaps even it is more difficult to give an ideaof this underground creation, than of the emperor of cataracts; for thereis nothing with which the cave can be compared. 

Meanwhile, we had rather a disagreeable ride, in all the force of the sun'slast rays, back to the rancho. No one spoke--all our thoughts werewandering amongst marble palaces, and uncouth, gigantic, half-human forms. 

But our attention was again attracted by the sudden reappearance of ourfriend, the alcalde, on the brow of the hill, looking considerablyindignant. He came with a fresh summons from the judge of Cuautla Amilpas, which lay white and glittering in the valley below. C---n endeavouredgravely to explain to him that the persons of ambassadors were not subjectto such laws, which was Greek and Hebrew to him of the bronze countenance. "If it were a _Consul_ indeed, there might be something in that. " At lastour guide, the ranchero, promised to call upon the judge in the evening, and explain the matter to his satisfaction; and again our alcalde departedupon his bootless errand--bootless in every sense, as he stalked down thehill with his bare bronze supporters. As we passed along, a parcel ofsoldiers in the village were assembled in haste, who struck up an imposingmilitary air, to give us some idea of their importance. 

Politically speaking, Cuautla Amilpas has been the theatre of importantevents. It was there that the curate Morelos shut himself up with a troopof insurgents, until the place being besieged by the Spaniards underCalleja, and the party of Morelos driven to extremity for want of food, hesecretly abandoned his position, drawing off his forces in the night. 

When we arrived at the rancho, we found that a message had come from thejudge, prohibiting Don Benito from accompanying strangers to the cave infuture, which would be hard upon the old man, who makes a little money byoccasionally guiding strangers there. C---n has therefore written on thesubject to the _prefect_ of the department. 

In the cool of the evening, we had a delightful ride to Cocoyotla. The airwas soft and fragrant--the bells of the villages were ringing amongst thetrees, for every village, however poor, has at least one fine church, andall the bells in Mexico, whether in the city or in the villages, have amellow and musical sound, owing, it is said, to the quantity of silver thatenters into their composition. 

It was late when we arrived at Cocoyotla, but we did not go to rest withoutvisiting the beautiful chapel, which we had omitted to do on our lastvisit; it is very rich in gilding and ornaments, very large and in goodtaste. We supped, and threw ourselves down to rest for a few hours, and setoff again at three o'clock, by the light of a full moon. Our greatestdifficulty in these hurried marches is to get our things in and out of ourportmanteaus, and to dress in time in the dark. No looking-glasses ofcourse--we arrange our hair by our imagination. Everything gets broken, asyou may suppose; the mules that carry our trunks cantering up and down thehills to keep up with us, in most unequal measure. 

The moon was still high, though pale, when the sun rose, like a youthfulmonarch impatient to take the reins from the hands of a mild and dyingqueen. We had a delightful gallop, and soon left the fires of Cocoyotla farbehind us. After riding six leagues, we arrived at six in the morning atthe house of the Perez Palacios. We should have gone further while it wascool; but their hospitality, added to a severe fit of toothache which hadattacked C---n, induced us to remain till four o'clock, during which timewe improved our acquaintance with the family. How strange and evenmelancholy are those glimpses which travellers have of persons whom theywill probably never meet again; with whom they form an intimacy, whichowing to peculiar circumstances seems very like friendship--much nearer itcertainly, than many a long acquaintanceship which we form in great cities, and where the parties go on _knowing each other_ from year to year, andnever exchanging more than a mere occasional and external civility. 

It was four o'clock when we left Meacatlan, and we rode hard and fast tillit grew nearly dark, for our intention was to return to our head-quartersat Atlacamulco that night, and we had a long journey before us, especiallyas it was decided that we should by no means attempt to recross thebarrancas by night, which would have been too dangerous. Besides an eclipseof the moon was predicted, and in fact, as we were riding across thefields, she appeared above the horizon, half in shadow, a curious andbeautiful spectacle. But we should have been thankful for her entire beams, for after riding for hours we discovered that we had lost our way, andworse still, that there were no hopes of our finding it. Not a hut was insight--darkness coming on--nothing but great plains and mountains to bedistinguished, and nothing to be heard but bulls roaring round us. We wenton, trusting to chance, and where chance would have led us it is hard tosay; but by good fortune our advanced guard stumbled over two Indians, aman and a boy, who agreed to guide us to their own village, but nowhereelse. 

After following them a long and weary way, all going at a pretty brisktrot, the barking of hundreds of dogs announced an Indian village, and bythe faint light we could just distinguish the cane huts snugly seatedamongst bananas and with little enclosed gardens before each. Our cavalcadedrew up before a hut, a sort of tavern or spirit-shop, where an oldhalf-naked hag, the _beau ideal_ of a witch, was distributing _fire-water_to the Indians, most of whom were already drunk. We got off our horses andthrew ourselves down on the ground too tired to care what they were doing, and by some means a cup of bad chocolate was procured for us. We found thatwe had entirely lost our way, and it was therefore agreed, that instead ofattempting to reach Atlacamulco that night, we should ride to the villageof el Puente, where our conductors knew a Spanish family of bachelorbrothers, who would be glad to _harbour_ us for the remainder of the night. We then remounted and set off somewhat refreshed by our rest and by the badchocolate. 

It was late at night when we entered el Puente, after having crossed inpitch darkness a river so deep that the horses were nearly carried offtheir feet; yet they were dancing in one place, playing cards on the groundin another, dogs were barking as usual, and candles lighted in the Indianhuts. We were very well received by the Spaniards, who gave us supper andmade us take their room, all the rest of the party sleeping upon mattressesplaced on the floor of a large empty apartment. We slept a few hours verysoundly, rose before daylight, wakened the others, who, lying on theground, rolled up in their sarapes, seemed to be sleeping for a wager, andremounted our horses, not sorry at the prospect of a day's rest atAtlacamulco. It was dark when we set off; but the sun had risen and hadlighted up the bright green fields of sugar-cane, and the beautifulcoffee-plantations that look like flowering myrtles, by the time we reachedthe hacienda of Señor Neri del Barrio, whose family is amongst the mostdistinguished of the old _Spanish Mexican_ stock. We stopped to take atumbler of milk fresh from the cow; declined an invitation to go in, as wewere anxious to finish our journey while it was cool; and after a hard ridegalloped into the courtyard of Atlacamulco, which seemed like returninghome. We spent a pleasant, idle day, lying down and reading while the sunwas high, and in the evening sauntering about under the orange trees. Weconcluded with a hot bath. 

7th. --Before continuing our journey, we determined to spend one more dayhere, which was fortunate, as we received a large packet of letters fromhome, forwarded to this place, and we have been reading them, stretchedunder the shade of a natural bower formed by orange-boughs, near a clear, cold tank of water in the garden. To-morrow we shall set off betimes forthe hacienda of Cocoyoc, the property of Don Juan Goriva, with whom C---nwas acquainted in Mexico. After visiting that and some other of theprincipal estates, we shall continue our ride to Puebla, and as we shallpass a few days there, hope to have leisure to write again from that city. 

LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH

Ride by Starlight--Fear of Robbers--Tropical Wild Flowers--Stout Escort--_Hautepec_--Hacienda of _Cocoyoc_--A Fire--Three Thousand Orange-trees--Coffee Mills, etc. --Variety of Tropical Fruits--Prodigality of Nature--_Casasano_--Celebrated Reservoir--Ride to Santa Clara--A Philosopher--AScorpion--Leave Santa Clara--Dangerous _Barranca_--_Colon_--AgreeableHouse--Civil _Administrador_--San Nicolas--Solitude--Franciscan Friar--Rainy Morning--Pink Turban--Arrival at _Atlisco_--Cypress--Department ofPuebla--Volcanoes--Doña Marina--Verses--_Popocatepetl_--Cholula--GreatPyramid--Arrival at Puebla. 

On the 9th of February we took leave of Atlacamulco and the hospitableadministrador, and our party being diminished by the absence of Don Pedro, who was obliged to go to Mexico, we set off as usual by starlight, beingwarned of various _bad bits_ on the road, where the ladies at least wereadvised to dismount. The country was wild and pretty, mountainous andstony. When the light came in we separated and galloped about in alldirections. The air was cool and laden with sweetness. We came, however, toa pretty lane, where those of our escort who were in front stopped, andthose who were behind rode up and begged us to keep close together, as formany leagues the country was haunted by robbers. Guns and pistols beinglooked to, we rode on in serried ranks, expecting every moment to hear abullet whizz over our heads. 

Here were the most beautiful wild flowers we have yet seen; some purple, white, and rose-colour in one blossom; probably the flower called_ocelojochitl_, or viper's head, others bright scarlet, others red, withwhite and yellow stripes, and with an Indian name, signifying the tiger'sflower; some had rose-coloured blossoms, others were of the purest white. 

We came at last to a road over a mountain, about as bad as anything we hadyet seen. Our train of horses and mules, and men in their Mexican dresses, looked very picturesque winding up and down these steep crags; and hereagain, forgetful of robbers, each one wandered according to his own fancy, some riding forward, and others lingering behind to pull branches of thesebeautiful wild blossoms. The horses' heads were covered with flowers ofevery colour, so that they looked like victims adorned for sacrifice. C---nindulged his botanical and geological propensities, occasionally to thegreat detriment of his companions, as we were anxious to arrive at someresting-place before the sun became insupportable. As for the robbers, these gentlemen, who always keep a sharp look-out, and rarely endangertheir precious persons without some sufficient motive, and who, moreover, seem to have some magical power of seeing through stone walls and intoportmanteaus, were no doubt aware that our luggage would neither havereplenished their own nor their _ladies_' wardrobes, and calculated thatpeople who travel for pleasure are not likely to carry any great quantityof superfluous coin. Besides this, they are much more afraid of thesehonest, stout, well-armed farm servants, who are a fine race of men, thaneven soldiers. 

We arrived about six o'clock at the village of Hautepec, remarkable for itsfine old church and lofty trees, especially for one magnificentwide-spreading ash-tree in the churchyard. There were also many of thosepretty trees with the silvery bark, which always look as if the moon wereshining on them. The road began to improve, but the sun became veryoppressive about nine o'clock, when we arrived at a pretty village, whichhad a large church and a _venta_ (tavern), where we stopped to refreshourselves with water and some very well-baked small cakes. The village wasso pretty that we had some thoughts of remaining there till the evening, but as Don Juan assured us that one hour's good gallop would carry us toCocoyoc, the hacienda of Don Juan Gorivar, we determined to continue. Wehad a dreadful ride in the hot sun, till we arrived at a pretty Indianvillage on the estate, and shortly after entered the courtyard of the greathacienda of Cocoyoc, where we were most hospitably welcomed by theproprietor and his family. 

We were very tired owing to the extreme heat, and white with dust. A freshtoilet, cold water, an hour's rest, and an excellent breakfast, did wondersfor us. Soon after our arrival, the sugar-house, or rather the canerubbish, took fire, and the great bell swung heavily to and fro, summoningthe workmen to assist in getting it under. It was not extinguished for sometime, and the building is so near the house, that the family were a littlealarmed. We stood on the balcony, which commands a beautiful view ofPopocatepetl, watching the blaze. After a hard battle between fire andwater, water carried the day. 

In the evening we drove to the orange grove, where three thousand loftytrees are ranged in avenues, literally bending under the weight of theirgolden fruit and snowy blossom. I never saw a more beautiful sight. Eachtree is perfect, and lofty as a forest tree. The ground under their broadshadows is strewed with thousands of oranges, dropping in their ripeness, and covered with the white, fragrant blossoms. The place is lovely, andeverywhere traversed by streams of the purest water. We ate a disgracefulnumber of oranges, limes, guayavas, and all manner of fruits, and eventasted the sweet beans of the coffee-plants. 

We spent the next morning in visiting the coffee-mills, the greatbrandy-works, sugar-houses, etc. , all which are in the highest order; andin strolling through the orange groves, and admiring the curious andbeautiful flowers, and walking among orchards of loaded fruit-trees--thecalabash, papaw, mango, tamarind, citron--also mameys, chirimoyas, custardapples, and all the family of the zapotes, white, black, yellow, and_chico_; cayotes, cocoas, cacahuates, aguacates, etc. , etc. , etc. , a listwithout an end. 

Besides these are an infinity of trees covered with the brightest blossoms;one, with large scarlet flowers, most gorgeous in their colouring, and onewhose blossoms are so like large pink silk tassels, that if hung to thecushions of a sofa, you could not discover them to be flowers. Whatprodigality of nature in these regions! With what a lavish hand she flingsbeauty and luxury to her tropical children!

In the evening we drove to Casasano, an hacienda about three leagues fromCocoyoc, and passed by several other fine estates, amongst others, thehacienda of Calderon. Casasano is an immense old house, very dull-looking, the road to which lies through a fine park for cattle, dotted with greatold trees, but of which the grass is very much burnt up. Each hacienda hasa large chapel attached to it, at which all the workmen and villagers inthe environs attend mass; a padre coming from a distance on Sundays andfête-days. Frequently there is one attached to the establishment. We wentto see the celebrated water-tank of Casasano, the largest and mostbeautiful reservoir in this part of the country; the water so pure, thatthough upwards of thirty feet deep, every blade of grass at the bottom isvisible. Even a pin, dropped upon the stones below, is seen shining quitedistinctly. A stone wall, level with the water, thirty feet high, enclosesit, on which I ventured to walk all round the tank, which is of an ovalform, with the assistance of our host, going one by one. A fall would besufficiently awkward, involving drowning on one side and breaking your neckon the other. The water is beautiful--a perfect mirror, with long greenfeathery plants at the bottom. 

The next morning we took leave of our friends at three o'clock, and set offfor Santa Clara, the hacienda of Don Eusebio Garcia. Señor Goriva made me apresent of a very good horse, and our ride that day was delightful, thoughthe roads led over the most terrible barrancas. For nine long leagues, wedid nothing but ford rivers and climb steep hills, those who were prettywell mounted beating up the tired cavalry. But during the first hours ofour ride, the air was so fresh among the hills, that even when the sun washigh, we suffered little from the heat; and the beautiful and varied viewswe met at every turn were full of interest. Santa Clara is a striking, imposing mass of building, beautifully situated at the foot of three bold, high rocks, with a remarkably handsome church attached to it. The familywere from home, and the agent was a philosopher, living upon herb-tea, quite above the common affairs of life. It is a fine hacienda, and veryproductive, but sad and solitary in the extreme, and as K---- and I walkedabout in the courtyard after supper, where we had listened to frightfulstories of robbers and robberies, we felt rather uncomfortably dreary, andanxious to change our quarters. We visited the sugar-works, which are likeall others, the chapel, which is very fine, and the shop where they sellspirituous liquors and calicoes. The hills looked gray and solemn. The sunsank gloomy behind them, his colour a turbid red. So much had been saidabout robbers, that we were not sure how our next day's journey mightterminate. The administrador's own servant had turned out to be the captainof a band! whom the robbers, from some mysterious motive, had murdered afew days before. As we intended to rise before dawn, we went to bed early, about nine o'clock, and were just in the act of extinguishing amelancholy-looking candle, when we were startled by the sight of an alacranon the wall. A man six feet high came at our call. He looked at thescorpion, shook his head, and ran out. He came back in a little while withanother large man, he with a great shoe in his hand, and his friend with along pole. While they were both hesitating how to kill it, Don Juan camein, and did the deed. We had a melancholy night after this, afraid ofeverything, with a long unsnuffed candle illuminating the darkness of ourlarge and lonely chamber. The next morning, the ninth of February, beforesunrise, we took our leave, in the darkness, of Santa Clara and thephilosopher. The morning, wonderful to relate, was windy, and almost cold. The roads were frightful, and we hailed the first gray streak that appearedin the eastern sky, announcing the dawn, which might enable us at least tosee our perils. Fortunately it was bright daylight when we found ourselvescrossing--a barranca, so dangerous, that after following for some time theprecipitous course of the mountain path, we thought it advisable to get offour horses, who were pawing the slippery rock, without being able to findany rest for the soles of their feet. We had a good deal of difficulty ingetting along ourselves on foot among the loose, sharp stones, and thehorses, between sliding and stumbling, were a long while in accomplishingthe descent. After climbing up the barranca, one of them ran off along theedge of the cliff, as if he were determined to cut the whole concern, andwe wasted some time in catching him. 

It was the afternoon when we rode through the lanes of a large Indianvillage, and shortly after arrived at Colon, an hacienda belonging to DonAntonio Orria. He was from home, but the good reception of the honestadministrador, the nice, clean, cheerful house, with its pretty paintedchairs, good beds, the excellent breakfasts and dinners, and the _goodwill_ visible in the whole establishment, delighted us very much, anddecided us to pitch our tent here for a day or two. Some Spaniards, hearingof C---n's arrival, rode over from a distance to see him, and dined withus. There was a capital housekeeper, famous for her excellent cakes andpreserves. We had also the refreshment of a warm bath, and felt ourselvesas much at home as if we had been in our own house. 

The next morning we rode through the great sugarcane fields to the haciendaof San Nicolas, one of the finest estates in the republic, eighteen leagueslong and five wide, belonging to Señor Zamora, in right of his wife. It isa productive place, but a singularly dreary residence. We walked out to seeall the works, which are on a great scale, and breakfasted with theproprietor, who was there alone. We amused ourselves by seeing the workmenreceive their weekly pay (this being Saturday), and at the mountains ofcopper piled up on tables in front of the house. There is a feeling ofvastness, of solitude, and of dreariness in some of these great haciendas, which is oppressive. Especially about noon, when everything is still, andthere is no sound except the incessant buzz of myriads of insects, I canimagine it like what the world must have been before man was created. 

Colon, which is not so large as San Nicolas, has a greater air of lifeabout it; and in fact we liked it so well, that, as ----- observed, weseemed inclined to consider it, not as a _colon_, but a _full stop_. Youmust not expect more vivacious puns in _tierra caliente_. We rode back fromSan Nicolas in the afternoon, accompanied by the proprietor, and had somethoughts of going to _Matamoras_ in the evening, to see the "Barber ofSeville" performed by a strolling company in the open air, under a tree!admittance twenty-five cents. However, we ended by remaining where we were, and spent the evening in walking about through the village, surrounded bybarking dogs, the greatest nuisance in these places, and pulling wildflowers, and gathering castor-oil nuts from the trees. A begging Franciscanfriar, from the convent of San Fernando, arrived for his yearly supply ofsugar which he begs from the different haciendas, for his convent, atribute which is never refused. 

We left our hospitable entertainer the next morning, with the addition ofsundry baskets of cake and fruit from the housekeeper. As we were settingoff, I asked the administrador if there were any barrancas on this road. "No, " said he, "but I have sent a basketful with one of the boys, as theyare very refreshing. " I made no remark, concluding that I should find outhis meaning in the course of the journey, but keeping a sharp look-out onthe mysterious _mozo_, who was added to our train. When the light becamestronger, I perceived that he carried under his sarape a large basket offine _naranjas_ (oranges), which no doubt the honest administrador thoughtI was inquiring after. It rained, when we left Colon, a thick mistydrizzle, and the difference of the temperature gave us notice that we werepassing out of _tierra caliente_. The road was so straight anduninteresting, though the surrounding country was fertile, that a fewbarrancas would really have been enlivening. 

At Colon we took leave of our conductor, Don Juan, who returned toAtlacamulco, and got a new director of our forces, a handsome man, ycleptDon Francisco, who had been a Spanish soldier. We had an uncomfortable ridein a high wind and hard rain, the roads good, but devoid of interest, sothat we were glad when we learnt that _Atlisco_, a town where we were topass the night, was not far off. Within a mile or two of the city we weremet by a tall man on horseback, with a pink turban, and a wild, swarthyface, who looked like an Abencerrage, and who came with the compliments ofhis master, a Spanish gentleman, to say that a house had been prepared forus in the town. 

Atlisco is a large town, with a high mountain behind it, crowned by a whitechapel, a magnificent church at the base; the whole city full of finechurches and convents, with a plaza and many good houses. The numerouspipes, pointed all along from the roofs, have a very threatening andwarlike effect; one seems to ride up the principal street under a strongfire. We found that Don Fernando -----, pink turban's master, notconsidering his own house good enough, had, on hearing of our expectedarrival, hired another, and furnished part of it for us! This is the sortof wholesale hospitality one meets with in this country. Our room lookedout upon an old Carmelite monastery, where C---n, having a recommendationto the prior, paid a visit, and found one or two good paintings. Here alsowe saw the famous cypress mentioned by Humboldt, which is seventy-threefeet in circumference. The next morning we set out with an escort of seven_mozos_, headed by Don Francisco, and all well armed, for the road fromAtlisco to Puebla is the robbers' highway, _par excellence_. 

This valley of Atlisco, as indeed the whole department of Puebla, is notedfor its fertility, and its abundant crops of maguey, wheat, maize, frijoles, garbanzos, barley, and other vegetables, as well as for thefineness of its fruits, its chirimoyas, etc. There is a Spanish proverbwhich says, "Si a morar en Indías feures, Que sea doude los volcanes vieres. "

"If you go to live in the Indias, let it be within sight of the volcanoes;"for it appears that all the lands surrounding the different volcanoes arefertile, and enjoy a pleasant climate. The great Cordilleras of Anahuaccross this territory, and amongst these are the Mountain of the Malinchi, Ixtaccihuatl, Popocatepetl, and the Peak of Orizava. The Malinchi, acorruption by the Spaniards of the Indian name Malintzin, signifying DoñaMaría or Marina, is supposed to be called after Cortes's Indian Egería, thefirst Christian woman of the Mexican empire. 

Though given to Cortes by the Tabascan Indians, it seems clear that she wasof noble birth, and that her father was the lord of many cities. It ispretended that she fell into a tributary situation, through the treacheryof her mother, who remarried after the death of her first husband, and who, bestowing all her affection on the son born of this second marriage, determined, in concert with her husband, that all their wealth should passto him. It happened, in furtherance of their views, that the daughter ofone of their slaves died, upon which they gave out that they had lost theirown daughter, affected to mourn for her, and, at the same time, privatelysold her, after the fashion of Joséph's brethren, to some merchants ofGicalanco, who in their turn disposed of her to their neighbours, theTabascans, who presented her to Cortes. That she was beautiful and of greattalent, versed in different dialects, the devoted friend of the Spaniards, and serving as their interpreter in their negotiations with the variousIndian tribes, there seems no doubt. She accompanied Cortes in all hisexpeditions--he followed her advice; and in the whole history of theconquest, Doña Marina (the name given to the beautiful slave at herChristian baptism) played an important part. Her son, Martin Cortes, aknight of the order of Santiago, was put to the torture in the time ofPhilip II. , on some unfounded suspicion of rebellion. It is said that whenCortes, accompanied by Doña Marina, went to Honduras, she met her guiltyrelatives, who, bathed in tears, threw themselves at her feet, fearful lestshe might avenge herself of their cruel treatment; but that she calmedtheir fears, and received them with much kindness. The name of herbirthplace was Painala, a village in the province of Cuatzacualco. Afterthe conquest, she was married to a Spaniard, named Juan de Jaramillo. 

But I have wandered a long way from the Sierra Malinchi. The two greatvolcanoes, but especially Popocatepetl, the highest mountain in New Spain, seem to follow the traveller like his guardian spirit, wherever he goes. Orizava, which forms a boundary between the departments of Puebla and VeraCruz, is said to be the most beautiful of mountains on a near approach, asit is the most magnificent at a distance; for while its summit is crownedwith snow, its central part is girded by thick forests of cedar and pine, and its base is adorned with woods and sloping fields covered with flocks, and dotted with white ranchos and small scattered villages; forming themost agreeable and varied landscape imaginable. Ixtaccihuatl means whitewoman; Popocatepetl the mountain that throws out smoke. They are thuscelebrated by the poet Heredia:

 Nieve eternal corona las cabezas De Ixtaccihuatl puríssimo, Orizava Y Popocatepetl; sin que el invierno Toque jamás con destructura mano Los campos fertillísimos do ledo Los mira el indio en purpura ligera Yoro teñirse, reflejando el brillo Del sol en Occidente, que sereno En yelo eterno y perennal verdura A torrentes versió su luz dorada, Y vió a naturaleza conmovida Con su dulce calor, hervir en vida. 

TRANSLATION. 

 Eternal snow crowns the majestic heads Of Orizava, Popocatepetl, And of Ixtaccihuatl the most pure. Never does winter with destructive hand Lay waste the fertile fields where from afar The Indian views them bathed in purple light And dyed in gold, reflecting the last rays Of the bright sun, which, sinking in the west, Poured forth his flood of golden light, serene Midst ice eternal, and perennial green; And saw all nature warming into life, Moved by the gentle radiance of his fires. 

The morning was really cold, and when we first set out, Pococatepetl wasrolled up in a mantle of clouds. The road led us very near him. The windwas very piercing:, and K---- was mounted on a curate's pony, evidentlyaccustomed to short distances and easy travelling. We had been told that itwas "muy proprio para Señora, " very much suited to a lady, an encomiumalways passed upon the oldest, most stupid, and most obstinate quadrupedthat the haciendas can boast. We overtook and passed a party of cavalry, guarding some prisoners, whom they were conducting to Puebla. 

As the sun rose, all eyes were turned with amazement and admiration to thegreat volcano. The clouds parted in the middle, and rolled off in greatvolumes, like a curtain withdrawn from a high altar. The snowy top andsides of the mountain appeared, shining in the bright sun, like a granddome of the purest white marble. But it cannot be described. I thought ofSinai, of Moses on the Mount, when the glory of the Lord was passing by; ofthe mountain of the Transfiguration, something too intolerably bright andmagnificent for mortal eye to look upon and live. We rode slowly, and inspeechless wonder, till the sun, which had crowned the mountain like aglory, rose slowly from its radiant brow, and we were reminded that it wastime to ride forwards. 

We were not far from the ancient city of Cholula, lying on a great plain ata short distance from the mountains, and glittering in the sunbeams, as ifit still were the city of predilection as in former days, when it was thesacred city, "the Rome of Anahuac. " It is still a large town, with aspacious square and many churches, and the ruins of its great pyramid stillattest its former grandeur; but of the forty thousand houses and fourhundred churches mentioned by Cortes, there are no traces. The base of thispyramid, which at a distance looks like a conical mountain, is said byHumboldt to be larger than that of any discovered in the old continent, being double that of Cheops. It is made of layers of bricks mixed withcoats of clay and contains four stories. In the midst of the principalplatform, where the Indians worshipped Quetzalcoatl, the god of the air(according to some the patriarch Noah, and according to others the apostleSaint Thomas! for _doctors differ_), rises a church dedicated to the Virgende los Remedios, surrounded by cypresses, from which there is one of themost beautiful views in the world. From this pyramid, and it is not theleast interesting circumstance connected with it, Humboldt made many of hisvaluable astronomical observations. 

The treachery of the people and priests of Cholula, who, after welcomingCortes and the Spaniards, formed a plan for exterminating them all, whichwas discovered by Doña Marina, through the medium of a lady of the city, was visited by him with the most signal vengeance. The slaughter wasdreadful; the streets were covered with dead bodies, and houses and templeswere burnt to the ground. This great temple was afterwards purified by hisorders, and the standard of the cross solemnly planted in the midst. Cholula, not being on the direct road to Puebla, is little visited, and asfor us our time was now so limited, that we were obliged to contentourselves with a mere passing observation of the pyramid, and then to hurryforward to Puebla. 

We entered that city to the number of eighteen persons, eighteen horses, and several mules, and passed some people near the gates who were carryingblue-eyed angels to the chosen city, and who nearly let them drop, inastonishment, on seeing such a cavalcade. We were very cold, and felt verytired as we rode into the courtyard of the hotel, yet rather chagrined tothink that the remainder of our journey was now to be performed in adiligence. Having brought my story up to civilized life, and it being late, I conclude. 

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH

Theatre--Portmanteaus--Visitors--Houses of Puebla--Fine Arts--Paseo--DonN. Ramos Arispe--Bishop--Cotton Factories--Don Esteban Antunano--Bank of_Avio_--United States Machinery--Accidents--Difficulties--Shipwrecks--Detentions--Wonderful Perseverance--"_La Constancia Mejicana_" Hospital--Prison--El Carmen--Paintings--Painted Floors--Angels--Cathedral--Gold andJewels--A Comedy--Bishop's Palace--Want of Masters. 

PUEBLA. 

You will be surprised when I tell you that, notwithstanding our fatigue, wewent to the theatre the evening we arrived, and sat through a long andtragical performance, in the box of Don A---o H---o, one of the richestcitizens of Puebla, who, hearing of our arrival, instantly came to inviteus to his house, where he assured us rooms were prepared for our reception. But being no longer in savage parts, where it is necessary to throwyourself on the hospitality of strangers or to sleep in the open air, wedeclined his kind offer, and remained in the inn, which is very tolerable, though we do not see it now _en beau_ as we did last year, when we wereexpected there. The theatre is clean and neat, but dull, and we were muchmore looked at than the actors, for few foreigners (ladies especially)remain here for any length of time, and their appearance is somewhat of anovelty. Our toilet occasioned us no small difficulty, now that we wereagain in polished cities, for you may imagine the condition of our trunks, which two mules had galloped with over ninety leagues of plain andmountain, and which had been opened every night. Such torn gowns, crushedcollars, ruined pelerines! One carpet bag had burst and discharged itscontents of combs, brushes, etc. , over a barranca, where some day they maybe picked up as Indian antiquities, and sent to the Museum, to be preservedas a proof that Montezuma's wives brushed their hair. However, by dint of awasherwoman and sundry messages to _peluqueros_ (hair-dressers), we wereenabled to _turn out_ something like Christian travellers. The first nightwe could not sleep on account of the innumerable ants, attracted probablyby a small garden, with one or two orange-trees in it, into which our roomopened. 

The next morning we had a great many visitors, and though there is here agood deal of that provincial pretension one always meets with out of acapital, we found some pleasant people amongst them. The Señora H---o camein a very handsome carriage, with beautiful northern horses, and took usout to see something of the town. Its extreme cleanness after Mexico isremarkable. In that respect it is the Philadelphia of the republic; withwide streets, well paved; large houses of two stories, very solid and wellbuilt; magnificent churches, plenty of water, and withal a dullness whichmakes one feel as if the houses were rows of convents, and all the people, except beggars and a few business men, shut up in performance of a vow. 

The house of Don A---o H---o is, I think, more elegantly furnished than anyin Mexico. It is of immense size, and the floors beautifully painted. Onelarge room is furnished with pale blue satin, another with crimson damask, and there are fine inlaid tables, handsome mirrors, and everything in verygood taste. He and his wife are both very young--she not more thannineteen, very delicate and pretty, and very fair; and in her dress, neatness, and house, she reminds me of a Philadelphian, always with theexception of her diamonds and pearls. The ladies smoke more, or at leastmore openly, than in Mexico; but they have so few amusements, they deservemore indulgence. There are eleven convents of nuns in the city, and takingthe veil is as common as being married. We dined at the Señora H---o's;found her very amiable, and heard a young lady sing, who has a good voice, but complains that there are no music-masters in Puebla. 

The fine arts, however, are not entirely at a standstill here; and inarchitecture, sculpture, and painting, there is a good deal, comparativelyspeaking, worthy of notice. There used to be a proverb amongst theMexicans, that "if all men had five senses, the Poblanos had seven. " Theyare considered very reserved in their manners--a natural consequence oftheir having actually no society. Formerly, Puebla rivalled Mexico inpopulation and in industry. The plague, which carried off fifty thousandpersons, was followed by the pestilence of civil war, and Puebla dwindleddown to a very secondary city. But we now hear a great deal of theircotton-factories, and of the machines, instruments, and workmen, broughtfrom Europe here, already giving employment to thirty thousand individuals. 

In the evening we drove to the new paseo, a public promenade, where none ofthe public were to be seen, and which will be pretty when the young treesgrow. 

19th. --C---n went out early, and returned the visit of the celebrated DonN. Ramos Arispe, now an old man, and canon of the cathedral, but formerlydeputy in the Spanish Cortes, and the most zealous supporter of the causeof independence. It is said that he owed the great influence which he hadover men of a middling character, rather to his energetic, some say to hisdomineering disposition, than to genius; that he was clear-headed, active, dexterous, remarkable for discovering hidden springs and secret motives, and always keeping his subordinates zealously employed in his affairs. C---n also visited the bishop, Señor Vasques, who obtained from Rome theacknowledgment of independence. 

We set out after breakfast with several gentlemen, who came to take us tothe cotton-factories, etc. We went first to visit the factory establishedat the mill of Santo Domingo, a little way out of the city, and called "LaConstancia Mejicana" (Mexican Constancy). It was the first established inthe republic, and deserves its name from the great obstacles that werethrown in the way of its construction, and the numerous difficulties thathad to be conquered before it came into effect. 

In 1831 a junta for the encouragement of public industry was formed, butthe obstacles thrown in the way of every proposal were so great, that themembers all abandoned it in despair, excepting only the Señor _Don EstebanAntunano_, who was determined himself to establish a manufactory of cotton, to give up his commercial relations, and to employ his whole fortune inattaining this object. 

He bought the mill of Santo Domingo for one hundred and seventy-eightthousand dollars, and began to build the edifice, employing foreign workmenat exorbitant prices. In this he spent so much of his capital, that he wasobliged to have recourse to the Bank of _Avio_ for assistance. The bank(_avio_ meaning pecuniary assistance, or advance of funds) was establishedby Don Lucas Alaman, and intended as an encouragement to industry. Butindustry is not of the nature of a hothouse plant, to be forced byartificial means; and these grants of funds have but created monopolies, and consequently added to the general poverty. Machinery, to the amount ofthree thousand eight hundred and forty spindles, was ordered for Antunanofrom the United States, and a loan granted him of one hundred andseventy-eight thousand dollars, but of which he never received the whole. Meanwhile his project was sneered at as absurd, impossible, ruinous; but, firmly resolved not to abandon his enterprise, he contented himself withliving with the strictest economy, himself and his numerous family almostsuffering from want, and frequently unable to obtain credit for theprovisions necessary for their daily use. 

To hasten the arrival of the machinery, he sent an agent to the north tosuperintend it, and to hire workmen; but the commercial house to which hewas recommended, and which at first gave him the sums he required, losttheir confidence in the agent, and redemanded their money, so that he wasforced to sell his clothes in order to obtain food and lodging. In July, 1833, the machinery was embarked at Philadelphia, and in August arrived atVera Cruz, to the care of Señor Paso y Troncoso, who never abandonedAntunano in his adversity, and even lent him unlimited sums; but much delayensued, and a year elapsed before it reached Puebla. There, after it wasall set up, the ignorant foreign workmen declared that no good resultswould ever be obtained; that the machines were bad, and the cotton worse. However, by the month of January, 1833, they began to work in the factory, to which was given the name of "Mexican Constancy. " A mechanist was thensent to the north, to procure a collection of new machinery; and, afterextraordinary delays and difficulties, he embarked with it at New York inFebruary, 1837. 

He was shipwrecked near Cayo-Hueso, and, with all the machinery he couldsave, returned to the north in the brig Argos; but on his way there he wasshipwrecked again, and all the machinery lost! He went to Philadelphia, tohave new machines constructed, and in August re-embarked in the Delaware. Incredible as it may seem, the Delaware was wrecked off Cayo-Alcatraces, and for the third time the machinery was lost, the mechanist saving himselfwith great difficulty!

It seemed as if gods and men had conspired against the cotton spindles; yetAntunano persevered. Fresh machinery was ordered; and though by anotherfatality it was detained, owing to the blockade of the ports by the Frenchsquadron, seven thousand spindles were landed, and speedily put inoperation. Others have followed the example of Señor Antunano, who hasgiven a decided impulse to industry in Puebla, besides a most extraordinaryexample of perseverance, and a determined struggle against what men call_bad luck, _ which persons of a feebler character sink under, while strongerminds oppose till they conquer it. 

It was in his carriage we went, and he accompanied us all over thebuilding. It is beautifully situated, and at a distance has more the air ofa summer palace than of a cotton-factory. Its order and airiness aredelightful, and in the middle of the court, in front of the building, is alarge fountain of the purest water. A Scotchman, who has been there forsome time, says he has never seen anything to compare with it, and heworked six years in the United States. Antunano is unfortunately very deaf, and obliged to use an ear-trumpet. He seems an excellent man, and I trusthe may be ultimately successful. We came out covered with cotton, as if wehad been just unpacked, and were next taken to visit a very handsome newprison, which they are building in the city, but whether it will ever befinished, or not, is more doubtful. We also visited the Foundling Hospital, a large building, where there are more children than funds. They were allclean and respectable-looking, but very poor. Antunano presented them withtwo hundred dollars, as a memorial, he said, of our visit. 

C---n then went to the convent of El Carmen, to see the paintings of theLife of the Virgin, supposed to be original works of Murillo, particularlythe Ascension and Circumcision; but which are ill-arranged, and havesuffered greatly from neglect, many of them being torn. Indeed, in some ofthem are large holes made by the boys, who insisted that the Jewish priestwas _the devil. _ There is a Descent from the Cross, which is reckoned afine painting; and it is a pity that these works should be shut up in thisold convent, where there are about half-a-dozen old monks, and where theyserve no purpose, useful or ornamental. Were they removed to the MexicanMuseum, and arranged with care, they would at least serve as models forthose young artists who have not the means of forming their taste byEuropean travel. Zendejas as a painter, and Coro as a sculptor, bothnatives of Puebla, are celebrated in their respective arts, but we have notyet seen any of their works. C---n also visited the bishop, and saw hispaintings and library, which we hope to do to-morrow; and from thence wentto the college, the rector of which was _attache_ in Spain to the MinisterSanta María. 

We dined again in the house of Señor H---o. The manner in which his floorsare painted is pretty and curious. It is in imitation of carpets, and isvery rich in appearance and very cool in reality. A great many of thefloors here are painted in this way, either upon canvas with oil colours, or upon a cement extended upon the bricks of which the floor is made, andprepared with glue, lime, or clay, and soap. 

Señor H---o has four young and pretty sisters, all nuns in differentconvents. As there are no other schools but these convents, the young girlswho are sent there become attached to the nuns, and prefer remaining withthem for ever to returning home. After dinner, accompanied by Don N. RamosArispe, whom C---n formerly knew intimately in Madrid, and by various otherecclesiastics, we visited the boast of Puebla, the cathedral, which we didnot do when we passed through the city on our arrival last year. To mymind, I have never seen anything more noble and magnificent. It is saidthat the rapid progress of the building was owing to the assistance of twoangels, who nightly descended and added to its height, so that each morningthe astonished workmen found their labour incredibly advanced. The namegiven to the city, "Puebla de los Angeles, " is said to be owing to thistradition. 

It is not so large as the cathedral of Mexico, but it is more elegant, simpler, and in better taste. Sixteen columns of exquisite marble, adornedwith silver and gold, form the _tabernacle_ (in Mexico called _el Cipres_). This native marble, called Puebla marble, is brought from the quarries ofTotamehuacan and Tecali, at two and seven leagues from the city. The floorof the cathedral is of marble--the great screens and high-backed chairs ofrichly-carved cedar. Everything was opened to show us; the tombs where thebishops are buried; the vault where a martyr lies, supposed to have beenmiraculously preserved for centuries, the gift of a pope to a bishop ofPuebla. The figure appears to be of wax, enclosing the skeleton of themartyr, and has the most angelic countenance I ever beheld. It is loadedwith false emeralds and diamonds. 

We were also shown the jewels, which they keep buried, in case of arevolution. The _Custodía_, the gold stand in which they carry the Host, isentirely encrusted with large diamonds, pearls, emeralds, amethysts, topazes, and rubies. The chalices are equally rich. There are four sets ofjewels for the bishop. One of his crosses is of emeralds and diamonds;another of topazes and diamonds, with great rings of the same, belonging toeach. 

In the evening we went with the M---- family, who have been very civil tous, to the theatre, where we saw a comedy better acted and more amusingthan the tragedy which they murdered two nights before. We went early thenext morning to the bishop's palace, to see his fine library and collectionof paintings, where there were a few modern originals and many fine copiesof the old masters. We then went with the Señora H---o, to return thevisits of the ladies who had called on us. The young ladies invariablycomplain that they have neither music, nor drawing, nor dancing masters. There is evidently a great deal of musical taste among them, and, as inevery part of Mexico, town or country, there is a piano (_tal cual_) inevery house; but most of those who play are self-taught, and naturallyabandon it very soon, for want of instruction or encouragement. We are nowgoing to dine out, and in the evening we go to a concert in the theatre, given by the Señora Cesari and Mr. Wallace. As we must rise at three, toset off by the diligence, I shall write no more from this place. Our nextletters will be from Mexico. 

LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH

Concert--Diligence--Leave Puebla--Escort--View from the CathedralTowers--Black Forest--History of the Crosses--Tales of Murder--AnAlarm--Report of a Skirmish--Rio Frío--Law concerning Robbers--Their_Moderation_--Return to Mexico--Carnival Ball--Improvement in Dress. 

MEXICO, 24th. 

We went to the concert with our friends, the H---os. The music was betterthan the instruments, and the Señora Cesari looked handsome, as she alwaysdoes, besides being beautifully dressed in white, with Paris wreaths. Wetook leave of our friends at the door of the hotel, at one in the morning, and lay down for two hours, in the full expectation of being robbed thefollowing day, a circumstance which has now grown so common, that when thediligence from Puebla arrives in safety, it excites rather more sensationthan when it has been stopped. The governor had ordered us an escort toMexico, to be stationed about every six leagues, but last week the escortitself, and even the gallant officer at its head, were suspected of beingthe plunderers. Our chief hope lay in that well-known miraculous knowledgewhich they possess as to the value of all travellers' luggage, which nodoubt not only makes them aware that we are mere pilgrims for pleasure, andnot fresh arrivals, laden with European commodities, but also renders themperfectly familiar with the contents of our well-shaken portmanteaus; sothat we trusted that a sarape or two, a few rings and earrings, and one ortwo shawls, would not prove sufficient to tempt them. We got into thediligence in the dark, half asleep, having taken all the places but three, which were engaged before we came; some sleepy soldiers on horseback, readyto accompany us, and a loaded gun sticking out of each window. Variousbeggars, who are here innumerable, already surrounded us; and it is, by theway, a remarkable circumstance, that notwithstanding the amazing numbers ofthe léperos in Puebla, the churches there are kept scrupulously clean, fromwhich Mexico might take a hint with advantage. 

Puebla is one of the few cities founded by the Spanish colonists, insteadof being built upon the ruins of former greatness. It was founded in thesixteenth century, on the plains of Acajete, in a site occupied only by afew huts belonging to the Cholula Indians. It is surrounded by productivecorn estates, and the landscape, when the light visited our eyes, wasfertile though flat. The two finest views of Puebla may be seen from thetowers of the cathedral, and from an azotea in the street of San Agustin. The landscape is extremely varied and very extensive. 

To the north we see the mountain of Tlascala, the _Matlalcueyetl_, betterknown as the Malinchi; next it the hill and temple of Guadalupe and themountain of the Pinar, crowned by its white church. Other churches andconvents adorn the slopes of the mountains, the Church of Loreto, theTemple of Calvary, etc. The Malinchi is fertile, but these inferiormountains are sterile and bare. 

To the south lie the great volcanoes, and between them we can distinguishthe difficult and steep road by which Cortes undertook his first march toMexico. We also see the city and pyramid of Cholula, the hill of SanNicolas, and that of San Juan, where General Bustamante encamped in 1832, when he went out against Santa Anna; near it the farm-houses of Posadas andZavaleta, one celebrated by a battle, the other by a treaty. 

To the east, but at a greater distance than the other mountains, rises thePeak of Orizava, the Star Mountain; the side now seen, that which risesover the table land of Mexico; its other side descends rapidly to theburning plains of Vera Cruz, and is the first distinguishable landdiscerned by those who approach these coasts. Even at this distance, itssnowy summit is seen contrasting with its fertile woods and pleasantvillages. It has, what mortals rarely possess united, a warm heart, with aclear, cold head. 

We were awakened at a posada by their bringing us some hot coffee, and aman with a white nightcap on, having poked his head in at the window, indefiance of a loaded musket, I concluded he was a lépero, and sleepily toldhim I had nothing for him, in the phrase of the country to importunatebeggars; "Perdone V. Por Dios!" "Excuse me, for God's sake!"--but he provedto be a gentleman, who merely came to put himself and his property at ourdisposal, at that early hour of the morning. 

When we entered the black forest, and passed through the dark pine woods, then the stories of robbers began, just as people at sea seem to take aparticular pleasure in talking of shipwrecks. Every cross had its tale ofmurder, and by the way, it seems to me, that a work written with_connaissance de cause_, and entitled "History of the Crosses, " though itmight not equal the "History of the _Crusades_, " would be quite asinteresting, and much more romantic, than the Newgate Calendar. Thedifficulty would consist in procuring authentic information concerningthem. There were a lady and two gentlemen in the diligence, and the ladyseemed to be very much _au fait_ as to their purport and history. Under oneher own servant was buried, and she gave rather a graphic account of hismurder. He was sitting outside, on the top of the diligence. The partywithin were numerous but unarmed. Suddenly a number of robbers with maskson came shouting down upon them from amongst the pine trees. They firsttook aim at the poor _mozo_, and shot him through the heart. He fell, calling in piteous tones to a padre who was in the coach, entreating him tostop and confess him, and groaning out a farewell to his friend the driver. Mortal fear prevailed over charity both in priest and layman, and thecoachman, whipping up his horses, passed at full gallop over the body ofthe murdered man, so that, the robbers being on foot, the remainder of theparty escaped. 

Whilst we were listening to tales of blood and murder, our escort tookleave of us, supposing that we should meet another immediately, whereas wefound that we had arrived at the most dangerous part of the road, and thatno soldiers were in sight. We certainly made up our minds to an attack thistime, and got ready our rings and watches, not to hide, but to give, for wewomenkind were clearly of opinion, that in case of an attack, it was muchbetter to attempt no defence, our party having only two guns amongst them. 

There was a diligence some way behind us, full of people, and belonging toanother line; driven by a Yankee coachman, so drunk that he kept his seatwith difficulty, and, in defiance of all remonstrances, persisted indriving the coach at a gallop close by the brink of the great precipicealong which the road wound; so that the poor passengers were exposed to adouble danger. 

Suddenly our escort appeared at the top of the hill, and the officer, riding up, excused himself to C---n for the delay, which had arisen fromtheir having been engaged in a skirmish with the robbers in that veryplace. Two he said were taken, and he had marched them off to Puebla, wherethey will probably be let off in a few days, after a form of trial. Fourhad escaped, and had hid themselves amongst the trees and rocks, but couldnot, according to his calculations, be very far off. However, we were quitereassured by the arrival of the soldiers, and the sight of Rio Frío wasvery reviving. We got a very tolerable dinner from the Bordelaise in theforest-valley; and although the next part of the road is reckoned veryinsecure, we had no longer any apprehension, as besides having an escort, the fact that some of the robbers had been taken a few hours before, madeit very unlikely that they would renew their attempts that day. 

This pestilence of robbers, which infests the republic, has never beeneradicated. They are in fact the growth of civil war. Sometimes in theguise of insurgents, taking an active part in the independence, they haveindependently laid waste the country, and robbed all whom they met. Asexpellers of the Spaniards, these armed bands infested the roads betweenVera Cruz and the capital, ruined all commerce, and without any particularinquiry into political opinions, robbed and murdered in all directions. In1824 a law was proposed in congress, which should subject all armed bandsof robbers to military judges, in order to shorten proceedings, for many ofthose who had been apprehended and thrown into prison, found someopportunity to escape, while their trial was pending, and many had beenimprisoned four or five times for the same offence, yet never brought tojustice. In this law were included both robbers by profession and thosebodies of insurgents who were merely extempore amateurs. 

But whatever measures have been taken at different times to eradicate thisevil, its causes remain, and the idle and unprincipled will always takeadvantage of the disorganized state of the country, to obtain by force whatthey might gain by honest labour. Count ----- says gravely, that he cannotimagine why we complain of Mexican robbers, when the city of London is fullof organized gangs of ruffians, whom the laws cannot reach; and whenEnglish highwaymen and housebreakers are the most celebrated in the world. Moreover, that Mexican robbers are never unnecessarily cruel, and in factare very easily moved to compassion. This last assertion may, occasionallyhold good, but their cruelties to travellers are too well known to bear himout in it as a general remark. 

As a proof of their occasional moderation, I may mention, that the ladiesof the F---a family, at the time of their emigration, were travelling fromMexico with a _padre_, when they were met by a party of robbers orinsurgents, who stopped the coach, and commenced pillaging. Amongst otherarticles of value, they seized a number of silver dishes. The padreobserved to them, that as this plate did not belong to the ladies, but waslent them by a friend, they would be obliged to replace it, and requestedthat one might be left as a pattern. The reasonable creatures instantlyreturned a dish and cover!

Another time, having completely stripped an English gentleman and hisservant, and tied them both to a tree, observing that the man appearedparticularly distressed at the loss of his master's spurs, they politelyreturned and laid the spurs beside the gentleman. 

About four o'clock, though nearly blinded with dust, we once more lookeddown upon the valley of Mexico, and at five, during our last change ofhorses, we were met by Don M---l del C---o and the English courier Beraza, who had ridden out to meet us, and accompanied us on their fine horses asfar as the Garita. Here we found our carriage waiting; got in and drovethrough Mexico, dusty as we were, and warlike as we seemed, with guns atthe windows. In the Calle San Francisco, the carriage was stopped byMr. -----, Secretary to the English Legation, who invited us to a grandmasked and fancy carnival ball to be given on Monday, it being nowSaturday. On our return home, we found everything in good order. Had somedifficulty in procuring ball-dresses in time. 

On Sunday we had a number of people to dinner, by chance, it being Spanishfashion to dine at a friend's house without invitation. This evening we goto the ball. 

26th. --The ball was in the theatre, and very brilliant, but too many ofthe first people on these occasions keep their boxes, and do not dance; yetit was wonderfully select for so large an assembly. When we arrived, wewere led upstairs by some of the commissioners, those who had charge of theball, to the E----'s box, whom we found, as usual, elegantly dressed--themarried ladies of the family with diamonds, the younger ones in white crapeand gold. I had a black silk mask, but finding myself universallyrecognized, saw no particular advantage in keeping it on, and promptlydiscarded it. We took a few turns in the ball-room, and afterwards returnedto the box. There were some capital figures in masks, and some beautifulball-dresses, and though there were a number of dominoes and odd figures, Icould not help remarking the great improvement in toilet which had takenplace since the fancy ball of last year. One or two girls, especially theSeñorita M----, wore ball-dresses which could only have proceeded from thefingers of a Parisian modiste. Madame de -----, dressed as a peasant, andwith a mask, was known everywhere by her small foot and pretty figure. Butit is impossible to look on at a ball very long, not mingling with it, without growing tired; and not even the numerous visitors to our box couldprevent us from feeling much more sleepy than during many a moonlight ridethrough the lovely lanes of _tierra caliente_. 

Next night there was a public masked ball, but we did not attend it. Wefeel much the better for our journey, and only hope that some day C---n mayhave leisure sufficient to enable us to take another ride through someother part of the country. This being near Lent, we shall have no _soirées_for six weeks, though balls are occasionally given during that time offasting. The house has become very comfortable in the way of servants; ourhousekeeper a treasure, the coachman and footman excellent, the cooktolerable, the soldiers rarely tipsy more than once a week, and generallyonly one at a time, the others decent--so that we have nothing to complainof ----- has established a hen-house near the stable, and any old Indianwoman who brings her a _manojo_ (several hens tied together) is sure to bereceived with open arms. 

One of our first visits on our return was to Tacubaya, where we were sorryto find the Countess C---a very much indisposed, and her courtyard filledwith carriages, containing visitors making inquiries. I shall now send offmy letters by the packet, that you may see we are safely re-established inMexico. 

LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH

Distinguished Men-Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, andVictoria--Anecdote--Señor Pedraza--Señor Gutierrez Estrada--CountCortina--Señor Gorostiza--Don Carlos Bustamante--"Mornings in theAlameda"--Don Andrés Quintana Roo--Don Lucas Alaman--GeneralMoran--General Almonte--Señor Canedo--Señors Neri del Barrio andCasaflores--Doctor Valentin--Don Francisco Tagle--Eight Revolutions. 

27th. 

H---- in his last letter asks what distinguished men we have in Mexico? andwith a tone of doubt as to their being very numerous. Distinguished in whatway? As generals, as statesmen, as men of literature? It seems to me that acountry where we have known Bustamante, Santa Anna, General Victoria, Posada, Gomez Pedraza, Gutierrez Estrada, Count Cortina, Gorostiza, DonCarlos Bustamante, Quintana Roo, General Moran, Don Lucas Alaman, GeneralAlmonte, Señor Canedo, Don Francisco Tagle, Señor Neri del Barrio, SeñorFagoaga, Don José Valentin, the Count de Casaflores, etc. , etc. , is not sodestitute of distinguished men as he supposes. The preceding are, Iconfess, strung together as they occur to me, without order or regularity;soldiers, statesmen, and literary men, some on one side of politics, someon another, but all men of note, and men who have acted, or suffered, orbeen distinguished in one way or another in the revolutions of the lastthirty-two years. And there is not one amongst those I have mentioned, who, if he were to write merely his personal history, would not by so doingwrite the history of these civil wars. The three first, as principalfigures in every revolution, are already historical; Bustamante as anhonest man and a brave soldier; Santa Anna as an acute general, active andaspiring, whose name has a _prestige_, whether for good or for evil, thatno other possesses; General Victoria, a plain, uneducated, well-intentionedman, brave and enduring. A passage in his life is well known, which oughtto be mentioned as an offset to the doubtful anecdote of the two-headedeagle. When Yturbide, alone, fallen and a prisoner, was banished fromMexico, and when General Bravo, who had the charge of conducting him toVera Cruz, treated him with every species of indignity, Victoria, the swornfoe of the emperor during his prosperity, now, when orders were given himto see Yturbide embarked, surrounded him with attentions, and loaded himwith respectful distinctions; so that Yturbide himself, moved withgratitude, after expressing his warm esteem for the General's consistentconduct, presented him with his watch as a memorial of his gratefuladmiration. 

As for Don Manuel Gomez Pedraza, he has occupied too distinguished a placein the political occurrences of this country, not to be generally known. Anofficer in the time of the Spanish government, he was distinguished for hissevere discipline and strict moral conduct. In the time of Yturbide he wasmilitary commandant of Huasteca, and supported the emperor, who afterwardsmade him commander-general of Mexico. In 1827 he was Minister of war, during the presidency of Victoria, and was distinguished for hisextraordinary activity, which quality was greatly wanting in that general. In 1828 he and Guerrero were announced as candidates for the presidency, and after a terrible political tempest, Gomez Pedraza was elected. Thefermentation that succeeded, the fury of the two parties, the_Guerreristas_ and _Pedrazistas_, which were mingled with _Yturbidistas_, was increased by the arrival of Santa Anna at Perote with eight hundredmen, who, having shut himself up in the fortress, declared for Guerrero, and published a manifesto, which set forth that general as a hero, and hisrival as a hypocrite. Then came the famous revolution of the _Acordada_, and both Pedraza and Guerrero disappeared. Pedraza left the Republic, andafter another revolution, hearing that "the constitution and laws werere-established, " returned to Vera Cruz; but was met by an order whichprohibited him from disembarking. He then set sail for New Orleans. Anotherchange brought him back; and at this present juncture he lives intranquillity, together with his lady, a person of extraordinary talent andlearning, daughter of the Lizenciado (jurisconsult) Señor Azcarate. Suchare the disturbed lives passed by the "children of the soil. "

Of Gutierrez Estrada, now far from his household gods, and languishingunder unjust persecution, I have already spoken. Count Cortina is agentleman and a scholar, a man of vast information, and a protector of thefine arts. His conversation is a series of electric sparks; brilliant as anignis fatuus, and bewildering as a will-o'-the-wisp. I have seldom heardsuch eloquence even in trifles; and he writes with as much ease as hespeaks. We have seen three clever pieces of his lately, showing hisversatile genius; one upon earthquakes, one upon the _devil_, and one uponthe holy fathers of the church!--the first in the form of a pamphlet, addressed to a lady, giving a scientific explanation of the causes of thesephenomena, interspersed with compliments to her _beaux yeux_; the second isa burlesque poem; and the third a grave and learned dissertation. 

Don José Eduardo Gorostiza, though a native of Vera Cruz, is the son of aSpanish officer, and when very young went to Spain, where he was knownpolitically as a liberal. He was distinguished as a writer of theatricalpieces, which have been and still are very popular; and those which hemerely translated, he had the merit of adapting to the Spanish stage, and_Castilianizing_ in grace and wit. One of his pieces, which we saw theother evening at the theatre--"_Con tigo, pan y cebolla_, " (With thee, bread and onions, ) is delightful. Besides occupying a place in the Cabinetof Mexico, he has been Charge d'Affaires in Holland, and Minister at theCourt of St. James. In conversation he is extremely witty and agreeable, and he has collected some good paintings and valuable books in the courseof his European travels. 

The reputation of Don Carlos Bustamante, deputy from Oajaca, is altogetherliterary. He has made many researches in Mexican antiquities; and haspublished a history of the "Discovery of America, " written by Padre Vega, which was unknown before; also the "Gallery of Mexican Princes;" "Tezcocoin the last Days of its last Kings, " etc. He lately sent me his "Morningsin the Alameda, " a book intended to teach Mexican young ladies the historyof their own country. I have read but a few pages of it, but was struckwith the liberality of his remarks in regard to the Spaniards, which, coming from such a source, are so much more valuable and worthy of creditthan any that can be made by a foreigner, that I am tempted to translatethe passage to which I allude. "The Spanish government founded colleges andacademies in the reign of the wise Charles the Third; it established thatof fine arts, which it enriched with the most beautiful statues, which youcan still see when you visit it. ("Their transportation, " he says in anote, "cost seventy thousand dollars. ") He sent excellent workmen, andimitated his predecessor Philip the Second, who sent to Mexico whatevercould not find a place in the works of the Escurial. Of his wisdom, we haveproofs in those magnificent temples which attract the attention oftravellers, such as the Cathedral of Mexico, San Agustin, Santo Domingo ofOaxaca, and others. Spain did no more, because she could do no more, andSpain gave to this America a constitution, which the Mexicans themselves, who pride themselves most on their learning, are unacquainted with; andwhose analysis was formed by the learned Padre Mier, in the History of theRevolution, which he printed in London; a constitution, in which are mademanifest the good intentions of the Austrian monarchs; and their earnestdesire to render the Indians happy; especially in the case of the greatPhilip the Fourth, whose autograph law is preserved; and which I have readwith respect and emotion, prohibiting the bad treatment of the Indians. Inshort, this America, if it were considered in a state of slavery under theSpanish dominion, was at least on a level with the peninsula itself. Readover the frightful list of taxes which oppressed the Spaniards, and compareit with those that were imposed upon us, and you will find that theirs isinfinitely greater than ours. These truths being granted, remark theprogress which the colonies had made in sciences and arts, and this truthwhich escaped from the light pen of the censor Beristain, will beconfirmed. Mexico, he says, was the sunflower of Spain. When in herprincipal universities there were no learned men to fill the mathematicalchairs, Mexico could boast of Don Carlos de Siguenza y Góngora: when inMadrid there was no one who had written a good epic poem, in Mexico the_Bernardo_ was composed;" etc. , etc. 

The next on my list is Don Andrés Quintana Roo, the best modern poet ofMexico, a native of Yucatan, and who came to the capital when very young, to study law. He is said to possess immense learning, and was enthusiasticto fanaticism in the cause of independence; insomuch that he and his wife, Doña Leona Vicario, who shared in his ardent love of liberty, braved everydanger in its cause, suffered imprisonment, escaped from the Inquisition, from the hands of robbers, endured every privation, so that their historywould form a romance. He is now devoted to literature, and though heoccasionally launches forth some political pamphlet, he is probably weanedof revolutions, and possesses all the calmness of a man whose first yearshave been spent in excitement and troubles, and who at length findsconsolation in study alone; the well of science proving to him the watersof Lethe, in which he drinks the oblivion of all his past sorrows. And itis very much the case in Mexico at present, that the most distinguished menare those who live most retired; those who have played their part on thearena of public life, have seen the inutility of their efforts in favour oftheir country, and have now retreated into the bosom of their families, where they endeavour to forget public evils in domestic retirement andliterary occupation. 

Amongst these may be reckoned Don Lucas Alaman, who passed many years inEurope, and in 1820 was deputy to the Spanish Cortes. Shortly after hisreturn he became Minister of foreign relations, which high office he hasfilled during various seasons of difficulty. [1] He is a man of learning, and has always been a protector of art and science. In conversation he ismore reserved, less brilliant, and more minute than Count Cortina, alwaysexpressing his opinion with caution, but very ready and able to giveinformation on anything in this country, unconnected with politics. GeneralMoran, now infirm, and long since retired from public service, isuniversally respected, both as a military man and a gentleman. He ismarried to a daughter of the late Marquis de Vivanco, general of division, who long held out against the independence, and when the colonial systemwas dissolved, would never go further than to desire a prince of royalbirth in Mexico. General Moran has been exiled several times, and hishealth has not held out against bodily and mental suffering; but he isending his days in a tranquil retirement in the midst of his family. OfGeneral Almonte and of Señor Canedo, who are figuring in public life in ourown day, I have frequently written. 

[Footnote 1: He is now, September, 1842, once more filling the samesituation under General Santa Anna. ]

Señor Neri del Barrio and the Count de Casaflores, married to sisters, ladies of high birth, the eldest a countess in her own right, are, as wellas their families, all that is most distinguished in Mexico. Señor Fagoaga, who is now in bad health, I know only by reputation. He is brother of theMarquis of Apartado, and of the celebrated Don José María Fagoaga, withwhose family we have the pleasure of being very intimate. C---n says thathe is a man of great taste and a thorough gentleman, and that his house, which is one of the handsomest in Mexico, possesses that ornament so rarein this country--well-chosen paintings. Don José Valentin, who has figuredin the political world, and who was curate of Huamautla, is one of thekindest and best old men I have ever met with; so severe to himself, soindulgent to others--so simple in worldly matters, so learned in everythingelse--so sincere, good, and charitable. He is a universal favourite withyoung and old, being cheerful, fond of music, and of gay conversation, inproportion as he is wise and learned in his observations, and serious inhis conversation when the occasion requires it. Doctor Valentin as anecclesiastic, and Padre Leon as a monk, are models. 

As for Don Francisco Tagle, he is a gentleman of the old school, and hisname figures in all the political events which have taken place since theindependence, of which he was one of the signers. He is very rich, possessing, besides a profitable maguey estate near Mexico, enormousproperty bounding Texas, and being also the keeper of the Monte Pio, formerly the house of Cortes, a palace, in which he and his family live. Heis a man of great learning and information, and too distinguished not tohave suffered personally in political convulsions. Whether he would choosethe same path, with his present experience of a Mexican republic, he is toowise to mention. He and his family are amongst our most intimate friends, and with a few exceptions all those whom I have mentioned have been heresince our return, which is one of the reasons why their names occurredfirst to my memory; for there are still many distinguished personsremaining. 

Nearly all these, at least all who are married, have had the good fortuneto unite themselves with women who are either their equals or superiors, ifnot in education, --in goodness, elevation of sentiment, and natural talent. They, as well as every Mexican, whether man or woman, not under forty, havelived under the Spanish government; have seen the revolution of Dolores of1810, with continuations and variations by Morelos, and paralyzation in1819; the revolution of Yturbide in 1821; the cry of Liberty (grito deLibertad) given by those generals "benemeritos de la patria, " Santa Annaand Victoria, in 1822; the establishment of the federal system in 1824; thehorrible revolution of the Acordada, in which Mexico was pillaged, in 1828;the adoption of the central system in 1836; and the last revolution of thefederalists in 1840. Another is predicted for next month, as if it were aneclipse of the sun. In nineteen years three forms of government have beentried, and two constitutions, the reform of one of which is still pendingin the Chambers. "_Dere is notink like trying!_" (as the old _perruquier_observed, when he set out in a little boat to catch the royal yacht, stillin sight of Scottish shores, with a new wig of his own invention, which hehad trusted to have been permitted to present to his most gracious majestyGeorge the Fourth!). 

LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH

New Minister--San Angel--Profitable Pulque Estate--The Village--SurroundingScenery--The Indians--The Padre--The Climate--Holy Week in theCountry--Dramatic Representations--Coyohuacan--The Pharisees--Image of theSaviour--Music and Dresses--Procession--Catholicism amongst theIndians--Strange Tradition--Paul the Fifth--Contrast between a Mexican anda New England Village--Love of Fireworks--Ferdinand the Seventh--MilitaryBall--_Drapeaux_. 

SAN ANGEL, March 30th. 

It is a long while since I last wrote, but this week has been employed inmoving into the country, and making arrangements for the sale of ourfurniture, in consequence of our having received official news from Spainof the nomination of a new envoy extraordinary and Minister plenipotentiaryto the republic of Mexico. As, on account of the yellow fever at Vera Cruz, we shall not wish to pass through that city later than May, it is necessaryto be in readiness to start when the new Minister arrives. On Thursday lastwe came out to this place, within three leagues of Mexico, where DonFrancisco Tagle has kindly lent us his unoccupied country house. As we hadan infinity of arrangements to make, much to bring out, and much to leave, and _all Mexico_ to see, you will excuse this long silence. Our house intown we leave to the guardianship of the housekeeper; the other servantsfollow us here. 

This house is very large, and has a fine garden and orchard full of fruit, with pretty walks all through it, and a sort of underwood of roses andsweet peas. It is a great pulque hacienda, and, besides what is sent intoMexico for sale, the court is constantly filled with the half-naked Indiansfrom the village, who come to have their _jarros_ filled with thatinspiring beverage. Then there is Doña Barbara (the guardian of thepulque), a Spanish administrador, a number of good-looking Indian women, and babies _à discrétion_. There is a small chapel, a piazza, with handsomepillars going all round the interior courtyard of the house, abilliard-table, and plenty of good rooms. In front of the house are themaguey-fields, and the azotea commands a beautiful view of the neighbouringvillages, San Angel, Coyohuacan, Miscuaque, etc. , with their woods andgardens, as well as of the city itself, with its lakes and volcanoes. 

As C---n's affairs take him to Mexico nearly every day, we feel a littlelonely in this large house, even though perfectly comfortable; and besidesthe extreme stillness and solitude, it is not considered safe for us towalk out alone; consequently the orchard must bound our wishes. And, ofcourse, being prohibited from going further, we have the greatest desire todo so! In the evening, however, when our _caballeros_ return, we frequentlywalk down to the village, where the English Minister has also a house. 

San Angel is pretty in its own way, with its fields of maguey, itsscattered houses, that look like the _beaux restes_ of better days, itsmarket-place, parish church, church of El Carmen, with the monastery andhigh-walled gardens adjoining; with its narrow lanes, Indian huts, profusion of pink roses, little bridge and avenue, and scattered clustersof trees; its houses for _temperamento_ (_constitution_, as they call thosewhere Mexican families come to reside in summer), with their gratedwindows, and gardens and orchards; and then the distant view of Mexico, with the cathedral towers, volcanoes, and lofty mountains, scatteredchurches and long lines of trees; and nearer, the pretty villages ofCoyohuacan and Miscuaque; and everywhere the old church, the broken arch, the ancient cross, with its faded flower-garlands, to commemorate a murder, or erected as an act of piety--all is so characteristic of Mexico, that thelandscape could belong to no other part of the known world. 

There is the Indian with his blanket, extracting the pulque from themaguey; the ranchero, with her reboso and broad-brimmed hat passing by uponher ass; the old lépero, in rags, sitting basking in the sun upon the stoneseat in front of the door; the poor Indian woman, with matted hair andbrown baby hanging behind her, refreshing herself by drinking three_elacos_ (halfpence) worth of pulque from a _jarrito_ (little earthen jar);the portly and well-looking padre prior del Carden (the Carmelite friar), sauntering up the lane at a leisurely pace, all the little ragged boys, down to the merest urchin that can hardly lisp, dragging off their large, well-holed hats, with a "_Buenos días, padrecito!_" (Good-morning, littlefather!)--the father replying with a benevolent smile, and a slight soundin his throat intended for a _Benedicite;_ and all that might be dull inany other climate brightened and made light and gay by the purestatmosphere, and bluest sky, and softest air, that ever blew or shone upon anaughty world. 

We are now approaching the holy week once more--in Mexico a scene ofvariety in the streets and of splendour in the churches; but in the countrya play, a sort of melodrama, in which the sufferings, death, and burial ofour Saviour are represented by living figures in pantomime. We have heard agreat deal of these representations, and are glad to have the opportunityof seeing them, which we intend to do in the village of Coyohuacan, wherethey are particularly curious. Besides this, our friends the A----s have ahouse there for the season, and, as the city of Cortes's predilection, itis classic ground. Meanwhile, for the last few days, the country has beenoverrun with Pharisees, Nazarenes, Jews, and figures of the Saviour, carried about in procession; all this in preparation for the holy week, asort of overture to the drama. 

The first evening we arrived here there was a representation of thePharisees searching for Christ. The Pharisees were very finely dressed, either in scarlet stuff and gold or in green and silver, with helmets andfeathers, mounted upon horses which are taught to dance and rear to thesound of music, so that upon the whole they looked like performers atAstley's. They came on with music, riding up the lanes until they arrivedin front of this house, which being the principal place hereabouts, theycame to first, and where the Indian workmen and servants were all collectedto see them. They rode about for some time, as if in search of Christ, until a full-length figure of the Saviour appeared, dressed in purplerobes, carried on a platform by four men, and guarded on all sides bysoldiers. It is singular, that after all there is nothing ridiculous inthese exhibitions; on the contrary, something rather terrible. In the firstplace, the music is good, which would hardly be the case in any but aMexican village; the dresses are really rich, the gold all real, and thewhole has the effect of confusing the imagination into the belief of itsbeing a true scene. 

The next evening the same procession passed, with some additions, alwaysaccompanied by a crowd of Indians from the villages, men, women, andchildren. Bonfires were made before the door of the hacienda, which werelighted whenever the distant music was heard approaching, and all thefigures in the procession carried lighted lamps. The Saviour was then ledup to the door, and all the crowd went up to kiss his feet. The figurewhich is carried about this evening is called "Our Saviour of the Column, "and represents the Saviour tied to a pillar, bleeding, and crowned withthorns. All this must sound very profane, but the people are so quiet, seemso devout, and so much in earnest, that it appears much less so than youwould believe. . . . 

The cross was planted here in a congenial soil, and as in the Pagan Eastthe statues of the divinities frequently did no more than change theirnames from those of heathen gods to those of Christian saints, andimage-worship apparently continued, though the mind of the Christian wasdirected from the being represented to the true and only God who inhabitseternity, so here the poor Indian still bows before visible representationsof saints and virgins, as he did in former days before the monstrous shapesrepresenting the unseen powers of the air, the earth, and the water; buthe, it is to be feared, lifts his thoughts no higher than the rude imagewhich a rude hand has carved. The mysteries of Christianity, to affect hisuntutored mind, must be visibly represented to his eyes. He kneels beforethe bleeding image of the Saviour who died for him, before the graciousform of the Virgin who intercedes for him; but he believes that there aremany Virgins, of various gifts, and possessing various degrees ofmiraculous power and different degrees of wealth, according to the qualityand number of the diamonds and pearls with which they are endowed--one evenwho is the rival of the other--one who will bring rain when there isdrought, and one to whom it is well to pray in seasons of inundation. Mexico owes much of its peculiar beauty to the religious or superstitiousfeelings of its inhabitants. At every step we see a white cross gleamingamongst the trees, in a solitary path, or on the top of some rugged andbarren rock--a symbol of faith in the desert place; and wherever thefootsteps of man have rested, and some three or four have gatheredtogether, there, while the ruined huts proclaim the poverty of the inmates, the temple of God rises in comparative splendour. 

It is strange, yet well authenticated, and has given rise to many theories, that the symbol of the cross was already known to the Indians before thearrival of Cortes. In the island of Cozumel, near Yucatan, there wereseveral; and in Yucatan itself, there was a stone cross; and there, anIndian, considered a prophet among his countrymen, had declared that anation bearing the same as a symbol, should arrive from a distant country!More extraordinary still was a temple dedicated to the Holy Cross by theToltec nation in the city of Cholula. Near Tulansingo also, there is across engraved on a rock, with various characters, which the Indians bytradition attribute to the apostle Saint Thomas. In Oajaca also thereexisted a cross which the Indians from time immemorial had been accustomedto consider as a divine symbol. By order of the Bishop Cervantes, it wasplaced in a sumptuous chapel in the cathedral. Information concerning itsdiscovery, together with a small cross cut out of its wood, was sent toRome to Paul the Fifth, who received it on his knees, singing the hymn, "_Vexilla Regis prodeunt_, " etc. 

If any one wishes to try the effect of strong contrast, let him come directfrom the United States to this country; but it is in the villagesespecially that the contrast is most striking. Travelling in New England, for example, we arrive at a small and flourishing village. We see four newchurches, proclaiming four different sects; religion suited to allcustomers. These wooden churches or meeting-houses are all new, all paintedwhite, or perhaps a bright red. Hard by is a tavern with a green paling, asclean and as new as the churches, and there are also various smart _stores_and neat dwelling-houses; all new, all wooden, all clean, and allornamented with slight Grecian pillars. The whole has a cheerful, trim, andflourishing aspect. Houses, churches, stores, and taverns, all are of apiece. They are suited to the present emergency, whatever that may be, though they will never make fine ruins. Everything proclaims prosperity, equality, consistency; the past forgotten, the present all in all, and thefuture taking care of itself. No delicate attentions to posterity, who cannever pay its debts. No beggars. If a man has even a hole in his coat, hemust be lately from the Emerald Isle. 

Transport yourself in imagination from this New England village to thatof -----, it matters not which, not far from Mexico. "Look on this picture, and on that. " The Indian huts, with their half-naked inmates, and littlegardens full of flowers; the huts themselves either built of clay, or thehalf-ruined _beaux restes_ of some stone building. At a little distance anhacienda, like a deserted palace, built of solid masonry, with its inner_patio_ surrounded by thick stone pillars, with great walls andiron-barred windows that might stand a siege. Here a ruined arch andcross, so solidly built, that one cannot but wonder how the stones evercrumbled away. There, rising in the midst of old faithful-looking trees, the church, gray and ancient, but strong as if designed for eternity; withits saints and virgins, and martyrs and relics, its gold and silver andprecious stones, whose value would buy up all the spare lots in the NewEngland village; the lépero with scarce a rag to cover him, kneeling onthat marble pavement. Leave the enclosure of the church, observe the stonewall that bounds the road for more than a mile; the fruit trees overtoppingit, high though it be, with their loaded branches. This is the conventorchard. And that great Gothic pile of building, that stands in hoarymajesty, surmounted by the lofty mountains, whose cloud-enveloped summits, tinged by the evening sun, rise behind it; what could so noble a buildingbe but the monastery, perhaps of the Carmelites, because of its exceedingrich garden, and well-chosen site, for they, of all monks, are richest inthis world's goods. Also we may see the reverend old prior riding slowlyfrom under the arched gate up the village lanes, the Indians coming fromtheir huts to do him lowly reverence as he passes. Here, everything remindsus of the past; of the conquering Spaniards, who seemed to build foreternity; impressing each work with their own solid, grave, and religiouscharacter; of the triumphs of catholicism; and of the Indians when Cortesfirst startled them from their repose, and stood before them like thefulfilment of a half-forgotten prophecy. It is the present that seems likea dream, a pale reflection of the past. All is decaying and growingfainter, and men seem trusting to some unknown future which they may neversee. One government has been abandoned, and there is none in its place. Onerevolution follows another, yet the remedy is not found. Let them bewarelest half a century later, they be awakened from their delusion, and findthe cathedral turned into a meeting-house, and all painted white; the_railing_ melted down; the silver transformed into dollars; the Virgin'sjewels sold to the highest bidder; the floor washed (which would do it noharm), and round the whole, a nice new wooden paling, freshly done ingreen--and all this performed by some of the artists from the _wide-awake_republic farther north. 

Just as I wrote these words, a shower of crackers startled me from theprofane ideas in which I was indulging, and the prancing of the horses ofJews and Pharisees, and the crackling of bonfires, warn me that it is timeto take an evening stroll, that the sun is down, and the air refreshing. However, as to crackers and rockets, the common people enjoy them by day asmuch as by night. It is their favourite method of commemorating any event, evil or religious. "What do you suppose the Mexicans will be doing now?"said King Ferdinand to a Mexican who was at the Spanish court, shortlyafter the final success of the Revolutionists. "Letting off rockets, yourMajesty, " answered the Mexican. "Well--I wonder what they are doing now inMexico!" said the King in the afternoon. "_Tirando cohetes_--letting offrockets, your Majesty. " His Majesty chose to repeat the question in theevening. "What will your countrymen be doing now?" "The same thing, yourMajesty. Still letting off rockets. "

Yesterday we drove into Mexico, to see how matters stood in our house, andreceived a number of visitors in our deserted apartments. Just before weleft Mexico for this place, three very magnificent aides-de-camp brought usan invitation from General Valencia, to attend a ball to be given by himand other officers, in the theatre, to the president, on the occasion ofhis excellency's being declared "benemerito de la patria. " We did not go, as we were setting off for the country, but C---n being requested, as werethe other Ministers, to send the colours of his nation, did so, and to-daythere is much talk in Mexico, besides a paragraph in the newspapers, connected with these matters. It appears that the _drapeaux_ whether byaccident or design, were improperly placed, and these faults in etiquetteare not uncommon here. The English Minister having observed that his_drapeau_ was placed in a subordinate rank, and finding that his warningsbeforehand on the subject, and his representations on seeing it wereneglected, cut it down and left the ballroom, followed by all the Englishwho were there. 

LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan--Hernan Cortes--His Last Wishes--_PadresCamilos_--Old Church--Procession--Representation of the taking ofChrist--Curate's Sermon under the Trees--A Religious Drama--GoodFriday--Portable Pulpit--Heat--Booths--Religious Procession--Simon theCyrenian--Coutumes--Curate's Sermon--Second Discourse--Sentence Pronouncedby Pontius Pilate--Descent from the Cross--Procession of theAngels--Funeral Hymn--The _Pesame_ to the Virgin--Sermon--"Sweet KittyClover"--Music in Mexico--Anecdote. 

On Holy Thursday we went early in the morning to Coyohuacan (now pronouncedCuyacan), which is almost a continuation of the village of San Angel; butthere are more trees in it, and every house has its garden, or at least itsinner court, filled with orange-trees. Here, after the total destruction ofthe ancient Tenochtitlan, Cortes took up his residence for several months. Here he founded a convent of nuns, and in his testament he desired to beburied in this convent, "in whatever part of the world I may finish mydays. " The conqueror's last wishes in this respect were not held sacred. Atthe time of the conquest, Coyohuacan, together with Tacubaya, etc. , stoodupon the margin of the Lake of Tezcuco; most of the houses built within thewater upon stakes, so that the canoes entered by a low door. This wasundoubtedly the favourite retreat of Cortes, and it is now one of theprettiest villages near Mexico. Its church is wonderfully handsome; one ofthe finest village churches we have yet seen. 

One of the prettiest places in the village belongs to an order of monkscalled the _Padres Camilos_. It consists of a house and garden, where themonks go by turns to enjoy the country air. Comfortable padres! There isone room looking into the garden, and opening into a walk bordered by rose-bushes, which is such a place for a siesta; cool, retired, fragrant. Ahammock with a mattress on it is slung across the room, and here the goodpadre may lie, with one eye opened to the roses, and the other closed ininward meditation. However, its whole merit consists in being cleanly andneatly kept, for it is a large, empty house, and the garden, so called, islittle more than a pasture-field, with nice gravel-walks cut through it, bordered with fine rose-bushes, and beautified by a clear fountain. 

We went to the A----'s house, which is halfway between San Angel andCoyohuacan; the Señora A---- driving me herself in an open carratella withwhite _frisones_ (northern horses), which, compared with the spiritedlittle Mexican steeds, look gigantic. We went first to see the church, which was brilliantly illuminated, and ornamented with loads of flowers andfruit (especially oranges), and thronged with ragged _lepéros_ andblanketed Indians. We then set off, to endeavour, if possible, to find aplace in the crowd, who had hurried off to see _el prendimiento_ (thetaking of Christ), and to hear the Curate preach an appropriate sermon in aportable pulpit, amongst the trees. 

We made our way through the patient, bronzed and blanketed crowd, notwithout sundry misgivings as to the effects of _evil communication_; and atlength reached the procession, all ranged on the grass under the trees, ina pretty and secluded little grove; in two long rows fronting each other;each person carrying a lamp surmounted by a plume of coloured feathers, very ingeniously made of coloured spun glass. They were all dressed in thecostume of Pharisees, Jews, Romans, etc. The image of the Saviour wasshortly after carried through on a platform, to the sound of music, followed by the eleven disciples, and was placed in a kind of bower amongstthe trees, supposed to give a representation of the garden of Gethsemane. Aportable pulpit, covered with shining stuff, was carried in, and placedbeneath a tree just outside of this enclosure, and soon after, the curatearrived, and mounted into his place. A number of little ragged boys, whohad climbed up on the very topmost branches of the trees, to have a goodview, were _piked_ down with lances by the Jews, notwithstanding theirseemingly just remonstrances that they were doing no harm; but when theJews observed in answer to their "Que hacemos?" "What are we doing?"--"TheSeñor Cura will be angry;"--they tumbled down one on the top of the otherlike ripe apples, and then stood watching for the first convenientopportunity of slipping up again. 

The curate began his sermon by an account of the sufferings and persecutionof Christ; of the causes and effects of his death; of the sinfulness of theJews, etc. He talked for about half an hour, and his sermon was simpleenough and adapted to his audience. He described the agony of Christ whenin the garden to which he often resorted with his disciples, and thetreachery of Judas who knew the place, and who "_having received a band ofmen and officers from the chief priests and pharisees, cometh thither withlanterns and torches and weapons_. " As he went on describing thecircumstances minutely, one who represented the spy, with a horrible masklike a pig's face, was seen looking through the trees where the Saviour wasconcealed; and shortly after, Judas, his face covered with a black crape, and followed by a band of soldiers, glided through stealthily. "Now, " saidthe curate, "observe what the traitor does. He hath given them a sign, saying, '_Whomsoever I shall kiss, that same is he--hold him fast_. ' Hegoes--he approaches the sacred person of the Lord. " Here Judas went forwardand embraced the Saviour. "It is done!" cried the preacher. "The horribleact of treachery is completed. _And forth-with he came to Jesús, and said, Hail, Master, and kissed him. But now, Jesús knowing all things that shouldcome upon him, went forth and said unto them, Whom seek ye? They answeredhim, Jesús of Nazareth. Jesús saith unto them, I am he_. " As the curatesaid these words, they all fell prostrate on the ground. "Mark, " cried he, "the power of the Word! They came out to take him with swords and withstaves, but at the sound of the Divine Word, they acknowledge the power ofGod, and fall at his feet. But it is only for a moment. Behold, now theybind him, they buffet him, they smite him with the palms of their hands, they lead him away to the high priest. "

All this was enacted in succession, though sometimes the curate was obligedto repeat the same things several times before they recollected what to do. "And already, in anticipation of the iniquitous sentence, behold what iswritten. " This alluded to a paper fastened upon a pole, which a man heldabove the heads of the crowd, and on which was written, "Jesús of Nazareth, King of the Jews, condemned to death by Pontius Pilate, President of UpperGalilee. "

And now, escorted by Judas and the multitude, the Saviour was borne throughthe crowd, in conclusion of the _prendimiento. _ The curate wound up hisdiscourse by an exhortation to abstain from sin, which had been the causeof this awful event. I regret to state that at this very moment, a manpoked his hand into A----'s pocket, who turned very sharply round, andasked him what he wanted; "Nada, Señorito, " (Nothing, sir, ) said he, withan innocent smile, showing two rows of teeth like an ivory railing, but atthe same time disappearing pretty swiftly amongst the crowd, who now allbegan to move, and to follow the procession, the band striking up a_galope. _ In the evening we returned to San Angel, and visited the lightedchurches there. As it was late when we entered the _parroquia_ (parishchurch), the lights were nearly all extinguished, and a few alone of thedevout were still kneeling before a figure of our Saviour in chains. . . . 

On Good Friday we set off early for Coyohuacan, though rather afraid of thesun, which at present, in the middle of the day, is insupportable, and evenby ten o'clock disagreeable. The whole enclosure round the church, and to agreat distance beyond it, was covered with people, and there were even afew carriages full of well-dressed persons, who had come from the differentneighbouring haciendas; amongst others, the family of the Marquesa deVivanco. The padre Yturalde, who has some reputation for eloquence, wasexpected to preach three sermons at Coyohuacan that day, besides one in thevillage of Mizcuaque. We found that one sermon was just concluded. By thetime we arrived the sun was pouring down his beams like molten lead. Ourcarriage was open, and under every tree was a crowd, so there were smallhopes of finding shade. Women were selling fruit; and booths with ices and_chia_ were erected all down the lane leading from the church. At last, however, a little room was made, and seats were placed for us close to thepulpit, and under a tree. 

The image of the Saviour was now carried forwards on a platform, with theheavy cross appearing to weigh him down; and on the same platform wasSimon, the Cyrenian, assisting him to bear the weight. The Cyrenian wasrepresented by an old man, with hair white as snow, dressed in scarletcloth; who, in a stooping posture, and without once moving his body, wascarried about for hours in the whole force of the sun, the rays pouringdown upon his uncovered head. For a long while we had believed him to be awooden figure dressed up, and when he came near he greatly excited oursurprise and compassion. If he survives this day's work it will be amiracle. I can now almost give faith to -----'s assertion, that in some ofthe villages the man who represents Judas actually hangs himself, or ishanged upon a tree! The Saviour was dressed in crimson velvet, with thecrown of thorns; and a figure of the Virgin, in deep mourning, was carriedafter him by Indian women. 

The procession consisted of the same men on horseback as we had seen onfoot the preceding day; of the Spy, the Pharisees, the Jews, the Betrayer, and the mob. Some had helmets and feathers, and armour. Some wore wreathsof green and gold leaves. One very good-looking man, with long curls and agold crown, and a splendid mantle of scarlet and gold, was intended for aRoman. By his crown he probably meant to personify the Roman Caesar. Thesermon, or rather the discourse of the padre, was very good, and appearedto be extempore. He made an address to the Virgin, who was carried by andled up to the pulpit, and another to the Saviour, during which time theaudience was breathlessly attentive, notwithstanding the crying of childrenand the barking of dogs. It was supposed that they were now leading Christbefore the judgment-seat of Pilate, and the next scene was to be thedelivery of the sentence. 

When the curate's discourse was finished, the procession went on; theIndian women began to sell their nuts and oranges, and the band struck upan air in the distance, to which, when last I heard it, Ducrow's horseswere dancing! We, in a fiery sun, which made its way through our mantillas, now proceeded to search for a convenient place from which to hear thepadre's next sermon, and to see the next scene in the sacred drama. Thepadre, who was walking under the shade of a lilac silk parasol, insistedupon resigning it to me. The Señora ----- did not seem to feel the heat atall. At last, in order to avoid the crowd, we got up on the low azotea of ahouse, beside which the pulpit was placed; but here the sun wasoverwhelming. The padre's sermon was really eloquent in some passages, butlasted nearly an hour, during which time we admired the fortitude of theunhappy Cyrenian, who was performing a penance of no ordinary kind. The sundarted down perpendicularly on the back of his exposed head, which he keptbent downwards, maintaining the same posture the whole time, withoutflinching or moving. Before the sermon was over we could stand the heat nolonger, and went in under cover. I felt as if my brains were melted into ahot jelly. We emerged upon hearing that the procession was again movingtowards the pulpit, where it shortly after formed itself into two lines. Ina few moments a man with a plumed helmet, mounted on a fiery horse, galloped furiously through the ranks, holding a paper on the point of hislance, the sentence pronounced by Pontius Pilate. 

Arrived at the pulpit, he handed it up to the priest, who received it witha look of horror, opened it, tried to read it, and threw it on the groundwith an air of indignation. The messenger galloped back more furiously thanhe came, and his horse bolting at the end of the lines, occasioned a laughamongst the spectators. Then followed the parting address to the Saviour, whose bearers now brought him up to the pulpit, followed by the mournfulfigure of the Virgin. Reflections on the event concluded this act. 

We returned in the afternoon, to see the descent from the cross, which wasto be performed within the church. The church was crowded, and a blackcurtain hung before the altar. The padre now recapitulated all that hadtaken place, and described the Saviour's parting with his mother at thefoot of the cross, addressing the Virgin who stood in her sable robes notfar from the altar, and interrupting his sermon to pray for herintercession with her Divine Son. I observed all the women in tears as hedescribed the Virgin's grief, the torments of the crucifixion, theindignities that the Saviour had suffered. All at once he exclaimed in aloud voice, "Draw back the veil, and let us behold him!" The curtain wasdrawn, and the Saviour crucified appeared. Then the sobs of the women brokeforth. They clasped their hands, beat their breasts and groaned, while thesoldiers who stood below the cross clashed their swords, and one of themstruck the body with a lance. At the same time the Virgin bowed her head, as if in grief. Unfortunately I was near enough to see how this waseffected, which peep behind the scenes greatly diminished the effect. 

Then the soldiers mounted a ladder near the crucifix, and took down thebody, to bear it away. As it came by the pulpit, the priest seized thehands, and showed the marks of the nails, at the same time breaking outinto exclamations of grief. The soldiers stood below, impatiently clashingtheir swords; the women sobbed violently; the procession passed on, and wereturned to the A----'s house. 

In the evening the "Procession of the Angels" took place. Figures dressedin silk and gold, with silver wings, were carried by on platforms to thesound of music. The body of the Saviour lay in a sort of glass hearse, carried by men chanting a dirge, and followed by the Virgin. Thisprocession was really pretty, but had an odd, unnatural effect amongst thefresh green trees, the smell of incense mingling with the fragrance of theflowers, and the gaudy silk and gold and plumes of feathers gilded by thesoft setting sun, as they flashed along. I climbed up an old stone crossnear the church, and had a good view. Everything looked gaudy when near;but as the procession wound along under the broken arches and through thegreen lanes, and the music came fainter upon the ear, and the beating ofdrums and the tolling of bells and the mournful chant were all blended intoone faint and distant harmony, the effect was beautiful. I thought of thesimple service of the Scottish kirk, and of the country-people coming outafter the sermon, with their best Sunday gowns on, and their serious, intelligent faces, discussing the merits of their Minister's discourse; andwondered at the contrasts in the same religion. . . . 

As the evening was cool and pleasant we walked through the fields to thechurch of La Concepción, where the procession was to pass, and sat down onthe grass till we heard it coming. As the body was carried by, all went ontheir knees. At night commenced the _pesame_, or condolence to the Virgin, in the church. She stood on her shrine, with her head bowed down; and thehymns and prayers were all addressed to her, while the sermon, preached byanother _cura_, was also in her honour. I plead guilty to having been toosleepy to take in more than the general tenour of the discourse. Themusicians seemed to be playing "Sweet Kitty Clover, " with variations. IfSweet Kitty Clover is genuine Irish, as who can doubt, how did theseIndians get hold of it? Did Saint Patrick go round from the Emerald Isle byway of Tipperary? But, if he had, would he not have killed the _alacrans_, and _chicaclinos_, and _coralillos_, and _vinagrillos_? This requiresconsideration. 

In the _Ora pro nobis_, we were struck with the fineness of the rusticvoices. But music in this country is a sixth sense. It was but a few daysbefore leaving Mexico, that, sitting alone at the open window, enjoying theshort twilight, I heard a sound of distant music; many voices singing inparts, and coming gradually nearer. It sounded beautiful, and exactly inunison with the hour and the scene. At first I concluded it to be areligious procession; but it was not a hymn--the air was gayer. When thevoices came under the window, and rose in full cadence, I went out on thebalcony to see to whom they belonged. It was the _forçats_, returning fromtheir work to the Acordada! guarded by soldiers, their chains clanking inmeasure to the melody, and accompanied by some miserable-looking women. 

We left the church feeling very tired and sleepy, and walked towards thebooths, where, in the midst of flowers and evergreens, they were stillselling ices, and lemonade and _chia_. We sat down to rest in the cleanestof these leafy bowers, and then returned to Coyohuacan. There was nodrunkenness, or quarrelling, or confusion of any sort. An occasional hymn, rising in the silence of the air, or the distant flashing of a hundredlights, alone gave notice that the funeral procession of the Saviour hadnot yet halted for the night; but there was no noise, not even mirth. Everything was conducted with a sobriety befitting the event that wascelebrated. That some of the curate's horses were stolen that night, isonly a proof that bad men were out, and took the opportunity of his absencefrom home to plunder his stables. We were told an anecdote concerning Simonthe Cyrenian, which is not bad. A man was taken up in one of the villagesas a vagrant, and desired by the justice to give an account of himself--toexplain why he was always wandering about, and had no employment. The man, with the greatest indignation, replied, "No employment! I am _substituteCyrenian_ at Coyohuacan in the Holy Week!" That is to say, he was to besubstituted in the Cyrenian's place, should anything occur to prevent thatindividual from representing the character. 

LETTER THE FORTIETH

Balloon--San Bartolo--Indian Women--A Beauty--DifferentCastes--Indians--Their Character, etc. --Those of Noble Race--Ball at theFrench Minister's-_Abecilta_--Danger of Walking Unattended--ShootingParty--A Murder--Robbery of a Farmhouse--Discomfited Robber Captain--The"_Zambos_"--Letters and Visitors--Country Life in Mexico. 

23rd April. 

We went to Mexico yesterday to see a balloon ascend from the Plaza deToros, with an aëronaut and his daughter; French people, I believe. Thescene was really beautiful. The plaza was filled with well-dressed people, and all the boxes crowded with ladies in full toilet. The president wasthere with his staff, and there were two bands of music. The day wasperfectly brilliant, and the streets crowded with handsome carriages, manyof them open. The balloon swayed itself up and down in the midst of theplaza like a living thing. Everything seemed ready for the ascent, when itwas announced that there was a hole in the balloon, and that, consequently, there could be no ascent that day. The people bore their disappointmentvery good-humouredly, although it was conjectured that the _air traveller_had merely proposed to himself to get their money, without the slightestintention of performing his voyage. One amusing circumstance was, that somepenny-a-line rhymer had written an account of it in verse beforehand, giving a most grandiloquent account of the ascent of the balloon; and whenwe came out, the plaza was full of men selling these verses, which thepeople were all buying and reading with roars of laughter. 

The first of May being _San Felipe_, there will be a ball at the FrenchMinister's, to which we shall probably go. 

25th. --We have just returned from a ride to San Bartolo, an Indian village, four leagues from this, where we went with a large party, some on horses, some on asses, others on mules, and one adventurous Jehu driving himself ina four-wheeled carriage, with a pair of horses, over a road formed of ruts, stones, holes, and rocks, where, I will venture to say, no carriage evermade its appearance before. Even the horses and asses got along withdifficulty. In spite of large straw hats and green veils, we were burnt thecolour of red Indians. In the middle of the day we find the sun intolerableat present, and, owing to the badness of the roads, we did not reach ourdestination until twelve or one o'clock. 

San Bartolo is a small, scattered Indian village, with a church, and isremarkable for a beautiful spring of water, that jets cold and clear fromthe hard rock, as if Moses had but just smote it; for its superb tallpine-trees; for the good looks and cleanness of the Indian women, who arefor ever washing their long hair in the innumerable clear streamlets formedby the spring; and for a view of Mexico, which is particularly favourable, owing to the thick, dark screen of pine wood in the foreground, and thedistinct view of the Laguna. Our dinner was carried by Indians, who hadtrotted off with it at day-dawn; but who had taken the wrong road, and didnot arrive till long after us. We dined under the pine-trees by the side ofthe stream, but surrounded by crowds of gaping Indians, in too closevicinity to be agreeable. Some of the young women were remarkably handsome, with the most beautiful teeth imaginable, laughing and talking in theirnative tongue at a great rate, as they were washing in the brooks, sometheir hair and others their clothes. The men looked as dirty as Indiansgenerally do, and by no means on a level with these handsome damsels, whoare so much superior to the common race of Indians near Mexico, that onewould think they had some intermixture of Spanish blood in their veins. Asister of the woman who takes charge of the hacienda where we live, is oneof the most beautiful creatures I ever beheld. Large eyes, with long darklashes, black hair nearly touching the ground, teeth like snow, a dark butglowing complexion, a superb figure, with fine arms and hands, and smallbeautifully-formed feet. All that is best of Indian and Spanish, "of darkand bright, " seems united in her. C---n says he has seen peasant women inAndalusia in the same style of beauty, and quite as handsome. She is onlynineteen. Such beauties as these startle one every now and then in someremote village. She belongs, no doubt, to the mestizos--the descendants ofwhites and Indians, the handsomest race in Mexico. 

You ask if the castes in Mexico are distinct. There are seven supposed tobe so. 1st, the Gachupinos, or Spaniards born in Europe; 2nd, the Creoles, that is, whites of European family born in America; 3rd, the Mestizos; 4th, the Mulattoes, descendants of whites and negroes, of whom there are few;5th, the Zambos, descendants of negroes and Indians, the ugliest race inMexico; 6th, the Indians; and 7th, the remains of the African negroes. 

Of pure Indians, Humboldt in his day calculated that there existed twomillions and a half in New Spain (without counting mestizos), and they are, probably, very little altered from the inferior Indians, as Cortes foundthem. The principal families perished at the time of the conquest. Thepriests, sole depositaries of knowledge, were put to death; the manuscriptsand hieroglyphical paintings were burnt, and the remaining Indians fellinto that state of ignorance and degradation, from which they have neveremerged. The rich Indian women preferred marrying their Spanish conquerorsto allying themselves with the degraded remnant of their countrymen; poorartisans, workmen, porters, etc. , of whom Cortes speaks as filling thestreets of the great cities, and as being considered little better thanbeasts of burden; nearly naked in _tierra caliente_, dressed pretty much asthey now are in the temperate parts of the country; and everywhere withnearly the same manners, and habits, and customs, as they now have, butespecially in the more distant villages where they have little intercoursewith the other classes. Even in their religion, Christianity, as I observedbefore, seems to be formed of the ruins of their mythology; and all thesefestivities of the church, these fireworks, and images, and gay dresses, harmonize completely with their childish love of show, and are, in fact, their greatest source of delight. To buy these they save up all theirmoney, and when you give a penny to an Indian child, it trots off to buycrackers, as another would to buy candy. Attempts have been made by theircurates to persuade them to omit the celebration of certain days, and toexpend less in the ceremonies of others, but the indignation and discontentwhich such proposals have caused, have induced them to desist in theirendeavours. 

Under an appearance of stupid apathy they veil a great depth of cunning. They are grave and gentle and rather sad in their appearance, when notunder the influence of pulque; but when they return to their villages inthe evening, and have taken a drop of comfort, their white teeth light uptheir bronze countenances like lamps, and the girls especially make the airring with their laughter, which is very musical. I think it is Humboldt whosays that their smile is extremely gentle, and the expression of their eyesvery severe. As they have no beard, if it were not for a little moustache, which they frequently wear on the upper lip, there would be scarcely anydifference between the faces of men and women. 

The Indians in and near the capital are, according to Humboldt, either thedescendants of the former labourers, or are remains of noble Indianfamilies, who, disdaining to intermarry with their Spanish conquerors, preferred themselves to till the ground which their vassals formerlycultivated for them. It is said that these Indians of noble race, though tothe vulgar eye undistinguishable from their fellows, are held in greatrespect by their inferior countrymen. In Cholula, particularly, there arestill caciques with long Indian names; also in Tlascala--and thoughbarefoot and ragged, they are said to possess great hidden wealth. But itis neither in or near the capital that we can see the Indians to perfectionin their original state. It is only by travelling through the provincesthat we can accomplish this; and should the lateness of the season obligeus to remain here any time after another Minister arrives, we may probablytake a longer journey in some different direction from _tierra caliente_, where we may see some tribes of the indigenous Mexicans. Certainly novisible improvement has taken place in their condition since theindependence. They are quite as poor and quite as ignorant, and quite asdegraded as they were in 1808, and if they do raise a little grain of theirown, they are so hardly taxed that the privilege is as nought. 

May 2nd--We returned from Mexico this morning, having gone in to attend theball given at the French Minister's, on the day of Louis Philippe. It wasvery pretty, and we stayed till it was very late. We met with such acordial reception from all our friends, whom we have not seen for a month, that we are tempted to believe ourselves as much missed in Mexico as theysay we are. The Señora L---- and the E----s were amongst the best dressedMexican ladies last night; the latter in white crape and diamonds, and theother in black blonde over rose-colour, also with diamonds. The SeñoraA----, who went with us, looked very pretty in a white blonde dress, with asmall black velvet turban rolled round with large diamonds and pearls. There were a great number of small crimson velvet turbans, and an amazingnumber of black blonde dresses. There were certainly some very prettywomen. The _corps diplomatique_ went in uniform. 

7th--Abecilta, a favourite Spanish actor, died a few days ago, and, asC---n took several boxes on the night of a play given for the benefit ofhis widow, we went in to the theatre on Saturday last. We are now lookingout for another house in Mexico, for when the rainy season begins we shallfind this too far from the city for C----n, who is obliged to be thereconstantly. 

We ventured to take a walk alone yesterday morning through the lanes, downto San Angel and Coyohuacan, for which piece of imprudence we were severelyreprehended, and to-day it appears that two women had been robbed andill-treated on the road near here; so we are too ready to subscribe to therenewal of our sentence of imprisonment in the house and orchard, when wehave no gentlemen with us; but it must be confessed that it takes greatlyfrom the charms of a country life, not to be able to walk outfearlessly. . . . 

The quietness and stillness of this place is incredible. There is actuallynot a sound in the air; not a sight but a ragged Indian. The garden is ingreat beauty. The apricots are ripe and abundant. The roses are in fullblow; and there is a large pomegranate-tree at the gate of the orchard, which is one mass of ponçeau blossom. It is much warmer in the middle ofthe day this summer than it was last. 

We spent a pleasant day lately at a great hacienda a few leagues from this, belonging to a Spanish millionaire, on occasion of a shooting party. Wewent there to breakfast, and afterwards set off on horseback, sittingsideways on _men's_ saddles, to see the sport. It would have been veryagreeable but for the heat. The sportsmen were not very successful;--saw aflight of rose-coloured flamingoes, who sailed high over their heads, unhurt; killed some very handsome birds called _trigueros_, with beautifulyellow plumage, and some ducks. The trigueros are considered a delicacy. Werode with the administrador all round the estate, which is very productiveand profitable. He told us that they sell in Mexico, annually, fifteenthousand dollars' worth of corn, and ten thousand dollars' worth of milk, sending in this produce in canoes, by the canal which passes this way. Wedismounted from our horses in a green meadow covered with daisies andbuttercups, which, from association, I prefer to the tuberoses andpomegranate blossom, which now adorn the gardens. The Señor ----- gave usan excellent dinner _a l'Espagnole_; after which I made an attempt to fireat some birds which shook their tails, and flew away in the mostcontemptuous manner. . . . 

The new Secretary of Legation, Señor T----, and the new attache, SeñorG----, have just arrived in Mexico. 

10th. --The Baron and Madame de -----, with their secretary, the Count deB----, came out yesterday morning unexpectedly to breakfast, and spent theday with us. 

13th. --We went out with C---n last evening, to take a walk; when a manrushed by us in a state of great agitation, and on going further we metsome workmen, who told us that an Indian labourer had stabbed a man in thenext field, and that he had died before a padre could be procured. We heardthe cries of his wife and children, and A----, crossing the ditch thatbordered the field, went to see the man. He was a master-workman, ordirector, and had found fault with one of the men for his idleness. Highwords ensued, and the labourer (probably the man who had passed us) drewhis knife and stabbed him. He was lying stone dead, with his hand half cutthrough in his efforts to defend himself. A---- asked an administrador, whowas standing near, what would be done to the guilty man. "Probablynothing, " said he, shrugging his shoulders; "we have no judges to punishcrime. " This rencounter, as you may believe, took away from us allinclination to pursue our rambles. 

There is a pretty farmhouse in the village, in which we took shelter theother day from a shower of rain. The farmers are civil and respectful, asuperior kind of people, with good manners rather above their station. Thedaughters are good-looking, and the house clean and neat. One of the girlsgave me an account of a nocturnal visit which the robbers paid them lastwinter. She showed me the little room where she was alone and asleep, whenher mother and sister, who slept in the chamber adjoining, being wakened bythe breaking in of their door, sprang out of the window to make theirescape, and she was left in the house alone. She jumped out of bed andbolted the door (her room had no other egress), and there she held a parleywith these night visitors, promising to unlock every drawer and closet, ifthey would wait till she put on her clothes, and would do her no personalinjury. The agreement was made, and they kept their word. They cleared thehouse of every article it contained, leaving nothing but the blanket inwhich the girl had wrapped herself. All their clothes, household utensils, money, everything was carried off with astonishing precision; and havingmade her swear not to move till they had time to leave the village, theypaid her no further attention. The other women, who had given the alarm, found no one inclined to move in the middle of the night against a partywhose numbers their fears had probably magnified. 

The administrador gave us an amusing account this evening of a visit whicha band of no less than thirty robbers once ventured to pay this strong andwell-defended hacienda. He was living there alone, that is, without thefamily, and had just barred and bolted everything for the night, but hadnot yet locked the outer gate, when looking out from his window into thecourtyard by moonlight, he saw a band of robbers ride up to the door. Heinstantly took his measures, and seizing the great keys, ran up the littlestair that leads to the azotea, locking the gate by which he passed, and, calling to the captain by name (for the robbers were headed by a notedchieftain), requested to know what he wanted at that hour of the night. Thecaptain politely begged him to come downstairs and he would tell him; butthe agent, strong in the possession of his great keys, and well knowing thesolidity of the iron-barred windows, continued his parley in a high tone. The captain rode round, examined everything with a practised eye, and foundthat it would require a regular siege to make good his entry. Hethreatened, entreated, observed that he would be content with a small sumof money, but all in vain. There stood the sturdy administrador on thehousetop, and there sat the captain on his horse below, something like thefox and the crow; but the agent with the keys was wiser than the crow andher cheese, for no cajoling would induce him to let them out of his grasp;and worse than all, shooting him would have done them no good. At last thecaptain, finding himself entirely outwitted, took off his hat, politelywished the agent a very good night, drew off his men and departed. 

Another time, being also alone, he was attacked in broad daylight by twomen who came under pretence of buying pulque; but having time to get holdof a sword, he overpowered one, which frightened the other, upon which theyboth began to laugh, and assured him it was mere experiment to see what hewould do--a perfect jest, which he pretended to believe, but advised themnot to try it again, as it was too good a joke to be repeated. Señor -----pointed out to us the other day a well-known robber captain, who was ridingon the high road with a friend. He had the worst-looking, most vulgar, andmost villainous face I ever saw; a low-lived and most unpoetic-lookingruffian; fat and sallow. 

We saw a horribly ugly man to-day, and were told he was a _lobo_, the namegiven here to the _Zambos_; who are the most frightful human beings thatcan be seen. La Güera Rodriguez told us that on an estate of hers, onewoman of that race was in the habit of attending church, and that she wasso fearfully hideous, the priest had been obliged to desire her to remainat home, because she distracted the attention of the congregation!

We spent yesterday at the house of the ----- Minister at San Angel, wherehe gave us and the ----- Minister and his family a beautiful breakfast. Howconsistent everything looks in a good English house! so handsome withoutbeing gaudy--the plate so well cleaned, the servants so well trained. 

June 8th. --We were sitting under an apple-tree the other day, trying totame the fiercest little deer I ever saw, who was butting and kicking withall his might, when a large packet of letters was brought us, the readingof which insured us an agreeable afternoon. We continue to lead a veryquiet life here, occasionally taking a short ride in the evening, andmaking acquaintance with the neighbouring villages, the prettiest of whichis Tesapan, a most rural and leafy spot, where there are fine fruit trees, plenty of water, and good-looking peasant-girls. Sometimes we go to SanAntonio to see the V---o family; occasionally to San Agustin, where theyare preparing for the great fête. We are in treaty for a house in Mexico, having now given up all idea of passing through Vera Cruz this summer. Weare in hopes of having that of the late Marquesa de San Roman, who diedsome time ago, but the delays that take place in any transaction connectedwith a house in Mexico, and the difficulty of obtaining a decisive answer, are hard trials of patience. 

We generally have a number of visitors from Mexico on Sunday, and those whocome in carriages may be considered as real friends, for they decidedlyrisk their necks, not to mention their carriage-springs at a _bad bit_ onthe road, which the owners, who are Indians, will not allow any one to mendfor them, and will not mend themselves. When we reach it, we are obligedregularly to get out of the carriage, go about a hundred yards on foot, andthen remain in much anxiety at the top of the hill, till we see whether ornot the carriage arrives unbroken, which it rarely does. A few dollarswould make it perfectly safe. 

Our chief visitors during the week are from the Carmelite convent of SanAngel. The old _padre guardian_ is about eighty. Each convent has a prior, but the padre guardian exercises authority over all the convents of hisorder as well as over his own. 

There are many excellent houses and fine gardens in San Angel, and a numberof families from Mexico are now there for the season. Tacubaya and all theenvirons are beginning to be occupied, and Mexico looks warm and deserted. But there are so few incidents in our quiet life among the magueys, that Ishall write no more till we return from San Agustin after the fête. If youwish to hear how we pass our time, you must know that we generally riseabout six, and go out into the orchard and stroll about, or sit down with abook in a pleasant arbour at the end of one of the walks, which issurrounded by rose-bushes, and has a little stream of water running pastit. Nor do we ever enter the orchard unarmed with a long pole, for itsentrance is guarded by a flock of angry geese, hissing like the many-headedHydra that watched over the golden apples of the Hesperides. At eight webreakfast, and by nine the sun is already powerful enough to prevent usfrom leaving the house. We therefore sit down to read or write, and dooccasionally take a game at billiards. C---n generally rides to Mexico, butif not, goes up to the azotea with a book, or writes in his study untilfour o'clock, when we dine. 

After dinner we walk into the village, if we have any attendant esquire; ifnot, we go to the azotea and see the sun set behind the volcanoes, or walkin the garden till it is dark, and then sit down in the front of the house, and look at the lights in Mexico. Then we have tea or chocolate--and thecandles are lighted--and the last Indian workman has gone off to hisvillage--and the house is barred in, and we sit down to read, or write ortalk, or sometimes we play billiards by lamp-light. And then indeed thesilence and the solitude make us feel as if the world were completely shutout. I never experienced such perfect stillness. Even the barking of a dogsounds like an event. Therefore, expect no amusing letters from this place;for though we are very comfortable, there are no incidents to relate. TheIndians come in the morning to drink pulque, (which, by the way, I nowthink excellent, and shall find it very difficult to live without!) alittle child from the village brings us some bouquets of flowers, which theIndians have a pretty way of arranging in a pineapple or pyramidal form;the Chinese cook, with his little slits of eyes, passes by with meat andfruit which he has been buying at the market of San Angel; the priorsaunters in to see how we are--a chance visitor comes on horseback fromMexico, with a long sword by his side, as if he were going to fight theSaracens. And excepting that a padre came last Sunday and said mass to usin the pretty little chapel of the hacienda, which saved us the trouble ofgoing down to the village, and, moreover, took chocolate with usafterwards, there has been nothing to vary the usual routine of our countrylife. 

LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST

Gambling--Fête at San Agustin--Breakfast at San Antonio--Report--Cock-fight--Ladies--Private Gambling--A _Vaca_--The _Calvario_--Bonnets--Dinner--Evening Ball--Mingling of Classes--Copper Tables--Dresses andDecorations--Indian Bankers, Male and Female--Decorum-Habit--Holders ofBanks--Female Gambler--Robbery--Anecdote--Bet--_Casa de Moneda_--Leave SanAngel--Celebration--Address--Cross and Diploma--Reply--Presentation of aSword--Discourses and Addresses--Reflections. 

10th June. 

One year since I last wrote of San Agustin! An entire year has fled swiftlyaway on rushing pinions, to add its unit to the rolling century. And again, on a bright morning in June, we set off for the hospitable San Antonio, where we were invited to breakfast and to pass the night on the second dayof the fête. We found a very brilliant party assembled; the family with allits branches, the Ex-Minister Cuevas, with his handsome sister-in-law, LaGuera Rodriguez, with one of her beautiful granddaughters (daughter of theMarquis of G---e), now making her first appearance in Mexico, and variousother agreeable people. The first day of the fête, a rumour was afloat thatan attack was to be made on the banks by the federal party; that theyexpected to procure the sinews of war to the extent of a million ofdollars, and then intended to raise a _grito_ in Mexico, taking advantageof the temporary absence of the president and his officers. The plan seemedrather feasible, and the report, true or false, was current yesterday; butif there was any truth in it, the discovery has been made in time, fornothing has occurred. San Agustin appeared even gayer and more crowded thanit was last year. We spent the day at the E----s, and went with them to abox in the plaza to see the cock-fight, which I had no particular pleasure, I must confess, in witnessing again, but went for the sake of those who hadnot seen it before. The general _coup d'ceil_ was exceeding gay, and theimprovement in the dress of the ladies since last year very striking. Therewere neither diamonds nor pearls among the most fashionable. The bonnetswere chiefly Parisian, as were many of the gowns. One box looked averitable parterre of flowers. The ladies of our party wore dresses andbonnets as simple, fresh, and elegant as could be seen in any part of theworld. A young and titled heiress, newly arrived from her distant estates, wore pink satin with a white hat and feathers, and we observed, thataccording to the ancient San Agustin fashion, she changed her dress four orfive times a day. But the ladies may dress and may smile, and may looktheir very best; they are little thought of this day, in comparison withthe one all-powerful, all-pervading object. It is even whispered that onecause of the more than usual crowd at San Agustin this year, is that manyfailures are expected in mercantile houses, and that the heads of thesehouses or their agents are here on the desperate hope of retrieving theirfalling fortunes. 

A good deal of play on a small scale goes on in the private houses, amongthose who do not take much part in the regular gambling; but all areinterested more or less; even strangers, even ladies, even ourselves. Occasional news is brought in, and received with deep interest of the stateof the banks, of the losses or gains of the different individuals, or ofthe result of the _vacas_, (a sort of general purse into which each puts intwo or three ounces, ) by different stragglers from the gambling-houses, whohave themselves only ventured a few ounces, and who prefer the society ofladies to that of the Monte players. These are generally foreigners, andchiefly English. 

We found the road to the _Calvario_, where, as usual, there was a ball inthe afternoon, blocked up with carriages, and the hill itself covered withgay figures; who were dancing as well as the tremendous crowd would permit. This was really tolerably republican. The women generally were dressed asthe better classes of Mexicans used to be, years ago, and not so many yearsneither (and as many in the country, still are) in blonde dresses, withvery short petticoats, open silk stockings and white satin shoes; and sucha collection of queer bonnets has probably never been seen since the dayswhen _les Anglaises pour rire_ first set foot on Gallic shores. Some werelike small steeples, others resembled helmets, some were like sugar-loaves, and most seemed to have been set on, for convenience-sake, all the way out. Amidst these there was a good sprinkling of pretty Herbaults and Parisdresses, but they belonged to the more fashionable classes. The scene wasamusing from its variety, but we did not remain long, as it threatenedrain. As we looked back, the crowd on the hill presented the appearance ofa bed of butterflies dancing with black ants. 

We returned to the -----'s to dinner, which was very handsome, and entirelyFrench. There were about twenty-eight persons at table, some of them lookedas if they had rather lost than otherwise. After dinner--music andconversation on the events and probabilities of the day, till it was timeto dress for the ball at the Plaza. We, however, preferred going to a box, which saves the trouble of dressing, besides being "_de mucho tono_, " veryfashionable; but when we arrived, not a box was to be had, the crowd was sogreat, and there were so many people of _tono_, besides ourselves, who hadpreferred doing the same thing; so we were obliged to content ourselveswith retreating to a third row of benches on the floor, after persuading atleast a dozen of very good-natured women to turn out, in order to let usin. We were afterwards joined by the ----- Minister and his wife. The balllooked very gay, and was prodigiously crowded, and exceedingly amusing. 

There were people of all classes; _modistes_ and carpenters, shop-boys, tailors, hatters, and hosiers, mingled with all the _haut ton_ of Mexico. Every shop-boy considered himself entitled to dance with every lady, and nolady considered herself as having a right to refuse him, and then to dancewith another person. The Señora de -----, a most high-bred and dignifiedperson, danced with a stable-boy in a jacket and without gloves, and heappeared particularly gratified at the extraordinary opportunity thusafforded him of holding her white gloves in his brown paws. These fellowsnaturally select the first ladies as their partners, and, strange as it mayseem, there is nothing in their behaviour that the most fastidious cancomplain of. They are perfectly polite, quiet, and well conducted; and whatis more remarkable, go through a quadrille as well as their neighbours. Theball was quietness itself, until near the end, when the wind-instrumentswere suddenly seized with a fit of economy, the time they were paid forhaving probably expired, and stopped short in the midst of a waltz; uponwhich the gentlemen waltzers shouted "_Viento! Viento!_" at the full extentof their voices, clapping their hands, refusing to dance, and entirelydrowning the sound of some little jingling guitars, which were patientlytwanging on, until the hired sons of AEolus had to resume their labours. 

There were some pretty faces among the secondary class of smallshopkeepers; but their beauty is not striking, and takes a long time todiscover; especially _fagotees_ as they are in their overloaded dresses. Amongst the handsomest of the higher classes, were the Señora C---s, and adaughter of the Marquis G---e. 

On the third night of the fête, C---n and I having left the ball-room, about ten o'clock, walked out in the direction of the copper-tables whichfilled the middle of the square, and were covered with awnings. It is asight that, once seen, can never be forgotten. Nothing but the pencil ofHogarth, or the pen of Boz, could do justice to the various groups thereassembled. It was a gambling _fête champetre_, conducted on the mostliberal scale. 

On each table were great mountains of copper, with an occasional sprinklingof silver. There was a profusion of evergreens, small tin lamps drippingwith oil, and sloping tallow candles shedding grease upon the board. Littleragged boys, acting as waiters, were busily engaged in handing round pulqueand chia in cracked tumblers. There was, moreover, an agreeable tinklingproduced from several guitars, and even the bankers condescended to amusetheir guests with soothing strains. The general dress of the companyconsisted of a single blanket, gracefully disposed in folds about theperson; so as to show various glimpses of a bronze skin. To this some addeda pair of Mexican pantaloons, and some a shirt of a doubtful colour. Therewere many with large hats, most of which had crowns or parts of crowns, butall affording free entrance to the fresh air. Generally speaking, how-ever, the head was uncovered, or covered only with its native thatchingof long, bushy, tangled black hair. 

This might be out of compliment to the ladies, of whom there were several, and who ought in politeness to have been mentioned first. Nothing could besimpler than their costume, consisting of a very dirty and extremely tornchemise, with short sleeves, a shorter petticoat, and a pair of shoes, generally of dirty satin: also a reboso, and the long hair hanging down asEve's golden locks may have done in Paradise. "They call this place aParadise, " a Spanish soldier wrote to his father; "and so I think it is, itis so full of _Adams_. "

There was neither fighting, nor swearing, nor high words. I doubt whetherthere be as much decorum at Crockford's; indeed, they were scrupulouslypolite to each other. At one table, the banker was an enormously fatgentleman, one half of whose head was bound up with a dirty whitehandkerchief, over which a torn piece of hat was stuck, very much to oneside. He had a most roguish eye, and a smile of inviting benignity on hisdirty countenance. In one hand he held and tingled a guitar, while he mostingeniously swept in the copper with the other. By his side sat twowretched-looking women, with long matted hair, their elbows on the table, and their great eyes fixed upon the game with an expression of the mostintense anxiety. At another, the _banker_ was a pretty little Indian woman, rather clean, comparatively speaking, and who appeared to be doing businesssmartly. A man stood near her, leaning against one of the poles thatsupported the awning, who attracted all our attention. He was enveloped ina torn blanket, his head uncovered, and his feet bare, and was glaring uponthe table with his great dark, haggard-looking eyes, his brown face livid, and his expression bordering on despair. It needed no one to tell us thaton the table was his last stake. What will such a man do but go upon theroad?

I have heard it mentioned as a strong circumstance in favour of the Mexicancharacter, that there is neither noise nor disturbance in these reunions;none of that uproar and violence that there would be in an English mob, forexample. The fact is certain, but the inference is doubtful. These peopleare degraded, and accustomed to endure. They are gentle and cunning, andtheir passions are not easily roused, at least to open display; but onceawakened, it is neither to uproar that these passions will be excited, norby fair fight that they will be assuaged. In England, a boxing-matchdecides a dispute amongst the lower orders; in Mexico, a knife; and abroken head is easier mended than a cut throat. Despair must find vent insome way; and secret murder, or midnight robbery, are the fatalconsequences of this very calmness of countenance, which is but a mask ofNature's own giving to her Indian offspring. 

Another reason for this tranquillity is the _habit_ of gambling, in whichthey have indulged from childhood, and which has taught them that neitherhigh words nor violence will restore a single dollar once fairly lost; andin point of fairness, everything is carried on with the strictest honour, as among gamblers of high degree. 

While "high life below stairs" is thus enacting, and these people arecourting fortune in the fresh air, the gentlemanly gamblers are seatedbefore the green cloth-covered tables, with the gravity befitting so manycabinet councils; but without their mystery, for doors and windows arethrown open, and both ladies and gentlemen may pass in and out, and look onat the game, if they please. The heaps of ounces look temptingly, and makeit appear a true El Dorado. Nor is there any lack of creature-comforts torefresh the flagging spirits. There are supper-spread tables, covered withsavoury meats to appease their hunger, and with generous wines to gladdentheir hearts; and the gentlemen who surrounded that board seemed to beplaying, instead of Monte, an excellent knife and fork. 

You must not suppose that those who hold gaming-tables are the lessconsidered on that account; on the contrary, as the banks generally win, they are amongst the richest, and, consequently, the most respected men inMexico. These bankers are frequently Spaniards, who have found gambling thereadiest stepping-stone to fortune. Señor ----- explained to me one plan ofthose who hold the banks, a sort of _hedging_, by which it is next toimpossible that they can lose. For example, one of these gentlemen proposesto his friends to take a share in a _vaca_, each contributing a few ounces. Having collected several hundred ounces, they go to play at _his bank_. Ifthey win, he receives his share, of course; and if they lose his bank winsthe whole. It is proceeding upon the principle of "Heads I win, tails youlose. "

At the tables, few words are spoken. The heaps of gold change masters; butthe masters do not change countenance. I saw but one person who looked alittle out of humour, and he was a foreigner. The rich man adds to hisstore, and the poor man becomes a beggar. He is ruined, but "_makes nosign_. "

The ladies who have collected ounces and made purses, send their friendsand admirers to the tables to try their luck for them; and in some of theinferior houses, the Señoras of a lower class occasionally try theirfortune for themselves. I saw one of these, who had probably lost, by nomeans "taking it coolly. " She looked like an overcharged thunder-cloud; butwhether she broke forth in anger or in tears, thunder or rain, we did notstay to see. 

In short, it is an all-pervading mania, and as man is "a bundle of habits, "the most moral persons in this country (always excepting one or two ladieswho express their opinions strongly against it) see nothing in it tocondemn, and are surprised at the effect it produces on a stranger; and, indeed, after a few years' residence here, a foreigner almost becomesreconciled to these abuses, by the veil of decorum with which they arecovered. 

We returned to San Antonio by the brightest possible moonlight, and inperfect safety, it being on the high-road to Mexico, and therefore guardedby soldiers. We heard the next morning, that a nephew of General B---s, whohad ventured upon going by a cross-road to his house, at _Mizcuaque_, hasbeen attacked and robbed of his winnings, besides being severely wounded. This being the natural consequence, the _morale_ to the story can excite nosurprise. The robbers who, in hopes of plunder, flocked down at the time ofthe fête, like sopilotes seeking carrion, hide themselves among the barrenrocks of the _Pedregal_, and render all cross-roads insecure, except with avery strong escort. 

An anecdote was related to us this morning, by a member of the cabinet, astriking one amongst the innumerable instances of fortune's caprices. Avery rich Spaniard, proprietor of several haciendas, attended the fête atSan Agustin, and having won three thousand ounces, ordered the money to becarried in sacks to his carriage, and prepared to return to Mexico alongwith his wife. His carriage was just setting off, when a friend of his cameout of an adjoining house, and requested him to stay to breakfast, to whichhe agreed. After breakfast, there being a monte table in the house, atwhich some of his acquaintances were playing, he put down two ounces, andlost. He continued playing and losing, until he had lost his three thousandounces, which were sent for and transferred to the winners. He stillcontinued playing with a terrible infatuation, till he had lost his wholefortune. He went on blindly, staking one hacienda after another, andproperty of all sorts, until the sun, which had risen upon him a rich andprosperous man, set, leaving him a beggar! It is said that he bore thisextraordinary and sudden reverse with the utmost equanimity. He left a son, whom we have seen at San Agustin, where he earns his livelihood as_croupier_ at the gambling-tables. 

29th. --No particular occurrence has taken place since the fête; a visitfrom the new Secretary of Legation and the Attache, a diplomatic dinner atthe ----- Minister's, much going and coming and writing on the subject of ahouse in Mexico, a correspondence concerning the sale of our furniture, mules, etc. , etc. , a good deal of interest excited by a bet between twoEnglish gentlemen, as to whether it were possible for one of them to ridefrom Mexico to San Angel in twenty minutes, which feat he performed, starting from the gate called "_El Niño Perdido_, " and reaching the oldchurch of San Angel within the given time; these I think are the mostremarkable circumstances that have taken place. We are now in treaty forthe furnished apartments of the director of the _Casa de Moneda_ (themint), a great building next the palace, from which upwards of one thousandthree hundred millions of coined gold and silver have issued since thebeginning of the sixteenth century. The house is a palace in extent andsolidity; and the residence of the director is very spacious and handsome, besides having the great advantage of being furnished. We expect to returnto Mexico in a few days. 

CASA DE MONEDA, 6th July. 

Here we are, re-established in Mexico, for a short time at least, and notwithout difficulty has it been accomplished. We left the country with someregret, as this is the pleasantest time of the year for being there, andeverything was looking green and beautiful. We came in, ourselves, in aloaded carriage, and in advance, fourteen asses loaded with boxes, fourIndians with ditto, and two enormous loaded carts, one drawn by four, andanother by eight mules. We were a regular _caravan_, as our friend thealcalde called us. Imagine the days of packing and unpacking consequentthereupon!

On the 1st of July, the victory gained by the government over thefederalist party was celebrated with great éclat. The president waspresented with a diamond cross, valued at six thousand dollars, and GeneralValencia with a splendid jewel-hilted sword of great value. "Yesterdaymorning, " says the newspaper of the day, "a general pealing of the bellsand the usual salutes announced to the capital that it was a day of rewardsand of universal joy. At twelve o'clock, his Excellency the President ofthe Republic went to the palace, to fulfill the formality of closing thesessions, and to receive from the hands of the President of the Chamber ofDeputies, the diploma and cross of honour mentioned in the decrees of thesecond of March and second of May of this year. An immense multitudeoccupied the galleries; and the President, Don J. M. María Bravo, addressedhis Excellency General Bustamante, in the following speech:

"Citizen General, and illustrious President:--Nations never forget thedistinguished services that are done to them, nor fail to reward thoseheroic actions performed for the common good. Sooner or later they showthemselves grateful, and reward as they ought their good and valiantservants. The Mexican nation has not forgotten yours, and its congress hasever borne in mind those which you performed for it at that happy periodwhen the unfortunate hero of Iguala, causing the voice of freedom toresound to the remotest lands of the Mexican territory, gave a terriblelesson to those who wish to subdue weak nations, with no other title thanthat of strength. You were one of the first and most valiant chiefs, who, placed by his side, assisted in this important and happy work; you it waswho showed to the tyrant in the fields of Juchi, Aztcapozalco and others, that the sword of the Mexicans once unsheathed for liberty and justice, fights without softening or breaking; and knows how to triumph over itsenemies, even when superior forces oppose it; you it was, in short, whowith intrepid valour co-operated in re-establishing a liberty which, tornfrom the ancient children of the soil, was converted by their oppressorsinto a hard and shameful tyranny. History has already consecrated her pagesto you: she will record to posterity your heroic deeds, and congress hasalready busied itself in rewarding such interesting services. 

"If some Mexicans, erring in their opinions, by a fatality in this country, have disowned them, making an attempt against your personal liberty, notwithstanding the dignity of the first magistrate; trampling upon lawsand overturning order; they have at length been obliged to respect you; andyour valour, firmness, and decision, have made them preserve theconsideration due to an ancient chief of our independence, and to a firstmagistrate who has known how to set an example of subordination to thelaws, and to give with dignity lessons of valour and of honourable conduct. 

"A diploma and a cross are the rewards which the sovereign congress hasdecreed for these services and merits. Do not regard in the one theeffaceable characters in which it is written, nor be dazzled by thebrilliancy of the other. See in both a proof of your country's gratitude, and engraving it in your soul, continue to give testimonies to your countrythat she is the first object of your care; that your watchings, fatigues, and labours are dedicated only to procure for her those benefits which maybring about the durable and solid peace that she so much desires, and forwhich you would, if necessary, sacrifice yourself on her altars. 

"Do not forget that to-day she shows herself grateful, and that this is theday decreed by the august national representative body, to put you inpossession of the title and insignia which manifests her gratitude. I, inthe name of the congress, congratulate you on this fortunate event, andhaving the honour to fulfil the desire of the sovereign power, place inyour hands this diploma of deserving reward from your country, and give youpossession of this cross. "

His Excellency having received the diploma and cross above mentioned, withhis native modesty replied thus:

"In hearing, by the organ of the august national representation, the greatencomiums with which it favours me, putting me at the same time inpossession of these precious gifts, my soul overflows with ineffablepleasure, and is overwhelmed with the deepest gratitude. My satisfactionand my glory are immense. What could I have done, that thus the generoushand of the representatives of the Mexican people should load me withhonours? Have my trifling services been able to fix the attention of thecountry, on whose altars have been sacrificed so many and such illustriousheroes of liberty? My glory would have been yet greater, had I, like them, descended to the sepulchre, when the sun of victory brightened theexistence of this sovereign and independent nation, to the glory of theuniverse. 

"The honours which I receive to-day are certainly great; but I should havepreferred them before the never sufficiently mourned catastrophe of theimmortal Yturbide. Let us throw a thick veil over so irreparable a loss. Itis true that, surviving such great misfortunes, I have been enabled toconsecrate my existence and my vigilance to the peace, order, and felicityof this beloved country. But how difficult is the conduct of those whogovern in the midst of the conflict of civil dissensions! In these, myconscience has chosen, and my resolution has never vacillated betweenignominy and honour. Do I, on this account, deserve the national gratitudeand munificence manifested by such distinguished rewards? I return for themto the representatives of the nation my frankest gratitude; fixing my mindonly on the grandeur and benevolence of the sovereign power which rewardsme in the sacred name of the country. I shall preserve till death theseprecious objects which render my name illustrious as a soldier and as asupreme magistrate. They will stimulate me more and more every day to allkinds of sacrifices, even to the giving up my life should it be necessary;that I may not be unworthy of the favourable conception and of therecompence with which the worthy representatives of so magnanimous a nationhave to-day honoured me. Receive, gentlemen, this frank manifestation of mysentiments, and of my fervent vows for the felicity of the republic, withthe most sincere protestations of my eternal gratitude. "

"The liveliest emotions of satisfaction" (I still quote from the _Díario_)"followed this expressive discourse. Joy was painted on every countenance. The frank satisfaction which every one felt gave to this act a solemnitywhich words are incapable of describing. His Excellency, accompanied by thecorporations and by a brilliant and numerous concourse, then passed to thehall of the court-martial, to put in possession of his Excellency GeneralD. Gabriel Valencia the sword of honour which the august nationalrepresentation had granted him, for his loyal and valiant conduct in theaffair of July of 1840. His Excellency the President began this ceremony byexpressing his sentiments to his Excellency the _Gefe de la plana mayor_(head of the staff), in these terms:

"Citizen General:--In this day, the most flattering of my life, in whichthe august representatives of the nation have just put me in possession ofthe rewards granted to my small services, I fulfil the law which imposesupon me the grateful task of presenting you with the sword of honour, withwhich their munificence has also chosen to remunerate yours. 

"Receive it as the distinguished reward of your loyalty, and of the valourwith which you fought at that memorable period, from the 15th to the 26thof July, defending with bravery the constitution and supreme powers of theRepublic. I congratulate myself with you, not doubting that you will alwaysemploy the edge of this steel in defence of the honour, of the sacredrights, and of the laws of this country. Yes, general, of this belovedcountry, to whom we owe all kinds of sacrifices; yes, of this belovedmother, who now more than ever reclaims the fraternal union of all herchildren, to conquer the internal and external enemies who oppose herfelicity and aggrandizement, let us pledge ourselves to correspondthankfully to the generosity with which the representatives of the nationhave rewarded us, and let us march united in the same path which honour andduty traced out for us, in that day of honourable memory for the defendersof the laws. Eternal praise to the brave soldiers and citizens who co-operated with us in the establishment of order!"

To which General Valencia replied:--"That a correspondent reward shouldfollow an heroic action, nothing more natural; but to remunerate a servicewhich does not go beyond the sphere of ordinary things, such as mine in theaffair of the 15th to the 26th of July of 1840, by such a noble distinctionas the sword of honour with which your Excellency has deigned to gird me, in the name of the National Congress, of this the magnanimity of thesovereignty is alone capable; and so it is that I remain annihilated by apresent worthy of the ages of the Roman Senate and Republic. What did I do, your Excellency, in those days, that any one of my countrymen would nothave done better? Nothing, sir; so that, in receiving this sword of honour, my confusion equals my doubt as to my place in the gratitude of thecongress which has given it to me, of your Excellency who has deigned topresent it to me, and of my worthy countrymen who bestowed it that I mightwear it. 

"In this condition, your Excellency, of content and satisfaction, I can sayno more, but that I hope your Excellency will manifest to congress myeternal gratitude; that your Excellency will receive my nobleacknowledgments, and my companions the assurance that every time I put iton I shall remember the names of all and each of them who accompanied me onthe 15th of July of 1840, together with the pleasure that to them I owe sogreat a mark of respect. "

Amongst the congratulations given to the president, the following"congratulation from his Excellency General Valencia to his Excellency thePresident, on his receiving the decoration of the cross of honour fromcongress, " is very remarkable. "God said, the first day of the creation ofthe world, when it was in a state of chaos, _'Let there be light, and therewas light. ' And God saw his work and pronounced it good!_ With how muchmore reason ought the garrison of Mexico to do so every day in which, byany action, the 15th of July 1840 is celebrated--in which, by theirstrength and heroic valour, that passage of Genesis was politicallyrepeated in this capital. Society arose in chaos. Its president is taken. Authorities no longer exist, and those who ought to save them are convertedinto their oppressors. '_God said let there be light, and there waslight_!' The honourable troops, reunited in the citadel, in the midst ofchaos, said 'Let order be re-established--let the supreme magistrate be setat liberty, and let things resume their proper march. ' Order _was_ re-established, your Excellency was set free, and the political body followedthe regular path, without which no society exists. So it is that thoseworthy troops who thus said, thus undertook, and thus accomplished, nowalso resemble the Creator of the world (_hoy tambien se asememejan alCriador del mundo_) in his content, when satisfied with his work. 

"The cross which has been worthily placed on your Excellency's breast thisday, reflects in such a singular manner upon the hearts of the valiant menof that period (_reflecta de un modo tan singular sobre los corazones delos valientes de aquella época_), that their souls are expanded incontemplating it, by the honour which results to them from it. 

"May your Excellency be happy one and a thousand times, with such a nobleand worthy decoration. Let your Excellency receive in it the sincerecongratulations of the garrison of Mexico, which figures in each stone ofthis cross, like the stars in the firmament. "

"This ceremony being concluded, the two rewarded generals presentedthemselves on the principal balcony of the palace, in front of which passedthe brilliant column of honour; at its head marched the commandant-general, Don Valentin Canalizo; and the brilliancy, neatness, and elegance, whichall the corps of the garrison displayed, is above all praise. When theregiment had passed, a sumptuous entertainment was served in one of thehalls of the Minister of War, in which elegance, good taste, and propriety, rivalled one another; while repeated toasts showed the most sincere joy, united with the most patriotic and fraternal sentiments. Rain having begunto fall at about three in the afternoon, the paseo was on this account notso crowded as might have been expected; nevertheless, the military bandswere present, and at six in the evening their Excellencies GeneralsBustamante and Valencia having presented themselves there, were receivedwith _vivas_ and universal joy. 

"At night the chiefs and officers of the _plana mayor_ gave a ball in thecollege of the Mineria; and the theatre of New Mexico dedicated itsentertainment to his Excellency the President. Nothing disturbed the joy ofthis day; one sentiment alone of union and cheerfulness overflowed in thecapital, proving to those illustrious generals the unanimous applause withwhich Mexicans see their country reward the distinguished services of theirchildren, who are so deserving of their love and gratitude. "

Notwithstanding the ineffable joy which, according to the _Díario_, isgenerally felt on this occasion, there are many who doubt the policy ofthis celebration, at a time when the troops are unpaid--when the soldiers, wounded at the last _pronunciamiento_, are refused their pensions, whilethe widows and orphans of others are vainly suing for assistance. "At thebest, " say those who cavil on the subject, "it was a civil war--a warbetween brothers--a subject of regret and not of glory--of sadness and notof jubilee. " As for General Valencia's congratulation to the president, inwhich he compares the "honourable troops" to the Supreme Being, there-establishment of order in Mexico to the creation of the world fromchaos, it is chiefly incomprehensible. Perhaps he is carried away by hisjoy and gratitude, and personal affection for Bustamante--perhaps he hastaken a leaf from a translation of _Bombastes Furioso_. 

One thing is certain: the whole affair had a brilliant appearance; and thehandsome carriages, fine horses, gaily-dressed officers and soldiers, together with the military music and the crowds of people collected, produced an imposing effect. 

LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND

Italian Opera--Artists, Male and Female--Prima Donna--Lucia deLammermoor--Some Disappointment--Second Representation--Improvement--Romeoand Giulietta--La Ricci--La Señora Cesari--The Mint--FalseCoining--Repetition of Lucia--Procession by Night--A SpanishBeauty--Discriminating Audience--A little Too Simple--GoldEmbroidery--Santiago--Pilgrims--Old Indian Custom--Soiree--Mexico byMoonlight--Mysterious Figure--Archbishop--Viceroy. 

13th July. 

We little expected to be still here at the opening of the new Italianopera, and had consequently given up our box. Señor Roca, who went to Italyto bring out the _requisites_, has arrived at the end of a wonderfullyshort period, with the singers, male and female, the new dresses, decorations, etc. ; and the first opera, Lucia de Lammermoor, was given lastweek. The theatre is the former _Teatro des Gallos_, an octagonal circus, which has been fitted up as elegantly as circumstances would permit, and asthe transition from the crowing of cocks to the soft notes of _Giulietta_rendered necessary. The _prima donna assoluta_ is the Signora AnaideCastellan de Giampietro, born in Paris, bred in Milan. The _prima donnasoprano_ is the Signora de Ricci; and the second _donna_ is calledBranzanti. The first tenor is Signor Giampietro, husband to the primadonna; and the second tenor is the Signor Alberti Bozetti. The first bassis Signor Tomassi, and the buffo bass Signor Spontini. They have been somuch _prone_, and public expectation has been so much excited, that wesupposed it probable that the first evening at least would be a failure toa certain extent. Besides, the Mexican audience, if not very experienced, is decidedly musical; and they have already had a pretty good opera here, have heard Madame Albini, la Cesari, Garcia (the father of Malibran) andthe _beux restes_ of Galli; therefore can compare. 

The first evening, the Castellan made her appearance as _Lucia_. She isabout twenty; slight and fair, with black hair, graceful, and with a verysweet, clear, and pure young voice, also very correct. The tenor rests uponhis wife's laurels. He looks well, but little more can be said in hispraise. Tomassi has some good notes, and a fine figure. Of the others whosang that evening there is little to be said. The theatre is extremely wellgot up, the dresses are new and rich, and the decorations and sceneryremarkably good. The public, however, were disappointed. They had preparedfor wonders, and were not satisfied with a fair performance. The applauseswere few and far between. The Castellan was not called for, and thefollowing day a certain degree of discontent pervaded the aristocracy ofthe capital. 

At the second representation of the same opera things mended. The voice ofLa Castellan was appreciated. Applauses were loud and long, and at the endof the opera she and the director were called for and received withenthusiasm. She seems likely to become a favourite. 

Last evening we had Romeo and Giulietta, in which La Ricci and La Cesarimade their appearance, the former as Giulietta, the latter as Romeo. TheRicci is a thin young woman, with a long, pale face, black eyes and hair, long neck and arms, and large hands; extremely pretty, it is said, off thestage, but very ineffective on it; but both on and off with a verydistinguished air. Her voice is extensive, but wanting cultivation, anddecidedly _pea-hennish_; besides that, she is apt to go out of tune. Herstyle of dress was excessively unbecoming to her style of beauty. She worea tight white gown, a tight blue satin-peaked body, with long tight bluesleeves. The public were indulgent, but it was evident that they weredisappointed. 

La Cesari, highly married, and who for the last three years has notappeared upon the stage, came out as _Romeo_, with tunic and mantle, whitesilk stockings, hat, and feathers, etc. She was very much frightened andill at ease, and it required all the applause with which the public greetedthe _entree_ of their former favourite to restore her to self-possession. She looked remarkably well--tall, handsome, beautifully formed, ratherpale, with fine dark eyes, dark hair, and _moustaches_. Her acting wasgreatly superior, as much so as was her beauty to any of the others. Shehas more knowledge of the theatre, more science, taste, and energy, thanany of them; but her voice, a soft contralto, is out of use and feeble. Thetheatre, besides, is ill-constructed for the voice, and must have a badeffect upon the fulness and tone. On the whole, it seems doubtful whetherthe opera will endure long. Were we going to remain here, I should trustthat it might be supported, for, with all its faults and drawbacks, it isdecidedly the best public exhibition in Mexico. The _coup d'oeil_ wasexceedingly pretty, as all the boxes were crowded, and the ladies were infull dress. 

July 20th. --As we are living in the mint, the directors have called on us;and this morning they came to invite us to descend into the lower regionsto see the silver coined. We went all over this immense establishment, afine picture of decayed magnificence, built about one hundred and ten yearsago by the Spaniards. Dirty, ill-kept, the machinery rude, the workmendiscontented; its fine vaulted roofs, that look like the interior of acathedral, together with that _grandiose_ style which distinguished thebuildings of the Spaniards in Mexico, form a strong contrast with theoccupants. 

We saw the silver bars stretched out, the dollars cut and whitened andstamped; and in one place we saw the machines for _coining false money_, which have been collected in such numbers that there is hardly room forthem! We saw the place where the silver and gold is tested; and the roomwith the medals, amongst which are some ancient Roman, Persian, andEnglish, but especially Spanish, and many of the time of Charles III. ; whenwe were looking at which, an old gentleman exclaimed, "Would to Heaventhose days would return!" without doubt the general feeling. This old manhad been forty-four years in the Casa de Moneda, and had lived underseveral viceroys. He could remember, when a boy, being sent with acommission to the Viceroy Revillagigedo, and being very much frightened, but soon reassured by the kind reception of the representative of majesty. He spoke of the flourishing condition of the mint in those days, whichcoined twenty-seven millions annually, and was a royal house. He said thatthe viceroys used to praise them and thank them for their exertions; thatthe house was then kept in the most perfect order, the principal officerswearing a uniform, etc. 

Hereupon another old gentleman took up the theme, and improved upon it; andtold us, that, on one occasion, they had one million three hundred thousanddollars' worth of gold in the house; and described the visit of thevice-queen Yturriguary, who came to see it, and sat down and looked roundher in amazement at the quantity of gold she saw accumulated. This oldgentleman had been thirty years in the mint, and seemed as though he hadnever been anywhere else; as if he were part and parcel in it, and had beencoined, and beat out, and clipped there. 

Hearing him, another fat man, rather unclipt-looking than otherwise, beganto bewail the state of the times, till it was a chorus universal, where allsang in one key. One had a very large, underhanging lip, with a kind oftragi-comic countenance, and was constantly making lugubrious puns. Another, who seemed bred to the mint, (though by his account the mint wasnot _bread_ to him, ) was insatiably curious, as a man born in a mint mightbe. We passed about three hours in a mixture of admiration of the past andsorrow for the present, and were reconducted to our domicile by the poor_employes, _ who seemed to think that a Spanish Minister was the next bestto a Spanish viceroy, or of anything they had seen for some time. 

 "The Past is nothing; and at last, The Future will but be the Past, "

says Lord Byron. Here the past is everything; and the future?--Answer itwho can. 

We were assured, while wondering at the number of machines for falsecoining which had been collected, that there are twice that number now infull force in Mexico; but that they belong to such distinguishedpersonages, the government is afraid to interfere with them. Besides this, there is now no sufficient punishment for this crime, a capital offence inthe days of the Spanish government. A lady here is said to have exclaimedwith much simplicity on hearing her husband accused of false coining, "Ireally wonder why they make so much noise about it. It seems to me that myhusband's copper is as good as any other!"

24th. --We went last evening to the opera, which was a repetition of Lucia, as it appears they cannot venture, in the face of public disapprobation, torepeat Romeo and Giulietta at present. As we were passing through thesquare, the carriage suddenly drew up, the coachman and footman uncoveredtheir heads, and an immense procession came passing along the cathedral, with lights and military music. There were officers in full uniform, withtheir heads uncovered, a long file of monks and priests, and a carriagecarrying the host, surrounded by hundreds of people on foot, all bearinglighted torches. A band of military music accompanied the procession, allwhich astonished us, as it was no fête-day. When, at length, being able topass along, we arrived at the opera, we were informed that they werecarrying the _viaticum_ to a rich acquaintance of ours, a general, who hasbeen indisposed for some time, and whose illness has now exhibited fatalsymptoms. 

For him, then, these great cathedral bells are tolling heavily; for him, the torches and the pompous procession--the sandalled monks, and theofficers in military array; while two bands of music are playing at hisdoor and another in front of the cathedral, and in the midst of thesesounds of monkish hymn and military music, the soul is preparing to wingits flight alone and unattended. 

But the sweet notes of Lucia drown all other from our ears, if not from ourthoughts. In a house not many hundred yards off, they Minister the host tothe dying man, while here, La Castellan, with her pretty French graces andItalian singing, is drawing tears from our eyes for fictitious sorrows. 

The theatre was pretty well filled, though there were some empty boxes, sights more hideous in the eyes of actors than toothless mouths. We satwith Madame la Baronne de -----, and nearly opposite was Madame -----, related to the "_Principe de la Paz_, " a handsome woman, with a fineBohemian cast of face, dark in complexion, with glittering teeth, brillianteyes, and dark hair. La Castellan sang very well, with much clearness, precision, and facility. She is certainly graceful and pretty, but, exceptin her method, more French than Italian. Her style suits Lucia, but I doubther having _l'air noble_ sufficient for a Norma or a Semiramis. The bassimproves upon acquaintance, but the handsome tenor is nought. The audienceseemed to me both indulgent and discriminating. They applauded the prettyprima donna _con furor_; they praised the bass when he deserved it, thetenor when it was possible; but where he sang false, nothing could extortfrom them a solitary _viva_. This discrimination makes their applause worthhaving, and proceeds less from experience or cultivation, than from a_musical instinct_. 

In a visit we made this morning, we were shown a piece of embroidery, which, from its splendour and good taste, is worthy of observation, thoughby no means uncommon here. We went to call on the wife of a judge, whoshowed us all through their beautiful house, which looks out on theAlameda. In one of the rooms, their daughter was engaged on a piece ofembroidery for the altar of the chapel. The ground was the very richest andthickest white satin; the design was a garland of vine-leaves, with bunchesof grapes. The vine-leaves were beautifully embroidered in fine gold, andthe grapes were composed of amethysts. I can conceive nothing richer andmore tasteful than the general effect. The gold embroidery done in Mexicois generally very beautiful, and there are many ladies who embroider ingreat perfection. There is an amazing quantity of it used in the churches, and in military uniforms. I have also seen beautiful gold-embroideredball-dresses, but they are nearly out of fashion. . . . We hear thatGeneral -----, though still ill, is likely to recover. 

25th. --This being the day of Santiago, the patron saint of Spain, C---n wasinvited by the padres to San Francisco to attend mass in the church there. We were shown to the tribuna (gallery) of the Countess de Santiago, wherethey gave us chairs, and put down a piece of carpet. C---n and the rest ofthe legation were in the body of the church, in velvet chairs, with lightedtapers in their hands. The saint was carried in procession, going out bythe principal door, making a tour of the streets, and returning by a sidedoor. The music was pretty good, especially one soprano voice. Twelvelittle boys were placed on crimson velvet benches, on either side of thealtar, representing pilgrims of Galicia (of which Santiago is the capital), handsome little fellows, belonging to respectable families, dressed inrobes of dark green or crimson, or violet-coloured velvet, with fallinglace collars, and the neck ornamented with gold and silver shells; a largepilgrim's hat fastened on behind, and hanging down, and in their handsstaffs with gold bells. They were beautiful children, and all behaved withbecoming gravity and decorum during the ceremony, walking with much dignityin the procession. 

After the _función_, we went out to Santiago, an old church near Mexico, where the Indians annually come in procession on this day, and sell theirfruit, flowers, pulque, etc. All the waste ground near the church wascovered with green booths, and there was a great crowd of carriages andhorsemen, and people on foot. The troops were drawn out, escorting theprocession to the church. But though the scene was curious, as the remnantof an old-established ceremony, and the Indians, with their booths andflowers, and great show of fruit, were all very picturesque, the sun was sointense, that after walking about a little while, and buying tunas and nutsand peaches, we returned home, together with the Guera Rodriguez, who wasin the carriage with us, and giving us a lively description of what thisfête used to be in former days. Had a visit the same morning from theSeñora M----, whom I think even handsomer by daylight, than she appeared tobe at the opera; not always the case with dark beauties. 

26th. -Another representation of Vaccaj's Romeo and Giulietta, with thesecond appearance of La Ricci. Music and Ricci seem considered a failure. The Señora Cesari made the handsomest of Romeos, as usual, but was ill, andout of spirits. The opera as a whole was coldly received; the boxes and pitwere nearly empty, and La Ricci seems unlikely to gain any favour with thepublic, though it must be confessed that she looked better, was morebecomingly dressed, and both sang and acted better than the precedingnight. Yesterday we went to a _soirée_ at the ----- Minister's. MadameCastellan and her tenor were there, and had come from a dinner given by arich curate to the whole _corps operatique_, from the prima donna down tothe _joueur du fagote_, and even to the tailor who makes the opera dresses, and his wife. This rich padre, it is said, spends a great part of hisfortune in entertaining actors and singers. La Castellan (permission tothat effect having been obtained from the manager, for it is against theiragreement to perform in private houses) sang several airs to the piano, with much expression, especially from _Robert le Díable_; and _Nina Pazzaper Amore_; but I prefer her voice in the theatre. She is not at allbeautiful, but has a charming face with a very musical expression. 

We returned home by moonlight, the most flattering medium through whichMexico can be viewed; with its broad and silent streets, and splendid oldbuildings, whose decay and abandonment are softened by the silvery light;its ancient churches, from which the notes of the organ occasionally comepealing forth, mingled with faint blasts of music borne on the night windfrom some distant procession; or with the soft music of a hymn from someneighbouring convent. The white-robed monk--the veiled female--even theragged beggar, add to the picture; by daylight his rags are too visible. Frequently, as the carriages roll along to the opera, or as, at a latehour, they return from it, they are suddenly stopped by the appearance ofthe mysterious coach, with its piebald mules, and the _Eye_ surrounded byrays of light on its panels; a melancholy apparition, for it has come fromthe house of mourning, probably from the bed of death. Then, by themoonlight, the kneeling figures on the pavement seemed as if carved instone. The city of Mexico by moonlight--the environs of Mexico at daybreak--these are the hours for viewing both to advantage, and for making us feelhow

 "All but the spirit of man is divine. "

In front of our house, I should say of _the Mint_, is the archbishop'spalace, and in front of this palace an object which has greatly excited ourcuriosity. It is an old man, who, whether as a penance, or from some motivewhich we do not know, kneels, wrapt in his serape, beside the wall of the_Arzobispado_ from sunset till midnight, or later--for we have frequentlygone out at nine in the evening, and left him kneeling there; and on ourreturn at one in the morning have found him in the same position. He asksno alms, but kneels there silent and motionless, hour after hour, as if inthe performance of some vow. . . . 

We made a call this evening on the archbishop in his own palace, anenormously large building; a sort of street, like this Casa de Moneda. Hereceived us very cordially, and looked very comfortable without his robesof state, in a fine cloth dressing-gown, lined with violet-coloured silk. 

August 1st. --We had a visit last evening from one of the directors of themint, a curious and most original genius, a Mexican, who has served nearlythirty years in that and other capacities, and who, after speaking of thedifferent viceroys he had seen, proceeded to give us various anecdotes ofthe Viceroy Revillagigedo, the most honoured for his justice, renowned forhis energy, and feared for his severity, of the whole dynasty. Our friendwas moved to enthusiasm by the sight of an old-fashioned but very handsomemusical clock, which stands on a table in the drawing-room, and which hesays was brought over by this viceroy, and was no doubt considered amiracle of art in those days. 

Some of the anecdotes he told us are already generally known here, but hismanner of telling them was very interesting, and he added variousparticulars which we had not heard before. Besides, the stories themselvesseem to me so curious and characteristic, that however much they lose bybeing tamely written instead of _dramatized_ as they are by him, I amtempted to give you one or two specimens. But my letter is getting beyondall ordinary limits, and your curiosity will no doubt keep cool till thearrival of another packet. 

LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD

Revillagigedo--The False Merchant and the Lady--The Viceroy, the UnjustSpaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces--Horrible Murder--Details--Oath--Country Family--The Spot of Blood--The Mother unknowingly denouncesher Son--Arrest of _the Three_--Confession--Execution--The Viceroy fulfilshis Pledge--Paving of the Streets--Severity to the Monks--Solitary Damsel--Box on the Ear--Pension--Morning Concert--New Minister--"Street of theSad Indian"--Traditions--A Farewell Audience--Inscription on a Tomb. 

August 3rd. 

A lady of fortune, owing to some combination of circumstances, foundherself in difficulties, and in immediate want of a small sum of money. Don----- being her _compadre_, and a respectable merchant, she went to him tostate her necessities, and offered him a case of valuable jewels assecurity for repayment, provided he would advance her eight hundreddollars. He agreed, and the bargain was concluded without any writtendocument, the lady depositing her jewels and receiving the sum. At the endof a few months, her temporary difficulties being ended, she went to her_compadre's_ house to repay the money, and receive back her jewels. The manreadily received the money, but declared to his astonished _comadre_, thatas to the jewels, he had never heard of them, and that no such transactionhad taken place. The Señora, indignant at the merchant's treachery, instantly repaired to the palace of the vice-king hoping for justice fromthis Western Solomon, though unable to conceive how it could be obtained. She was instantly received by Revillagigedo, who listened attentively toher account of the circumstances. "Had you no witnesses?" said the count. "None, " replied she. "Did no servant pass in or out during thetransaction?" "No one. " The viceroy reflected a moment. "Does your compadresmoke?" "No, sir, " said the lady, astonished at this irrelevant question, and perhaps the more so, as the count's aversion to smoking was so wellknown, that none of his smoking subjects ventured to approach him withouthaving taken every precaution to deaden any odour of the fragrant weedwhich might lurk about their clothes or person. "Does he take snuff?" saidthe viceroy. "Yes, your Excellency, " said his visitor, who probably fearedthat for once his Excellency's wits were wool-gathering. "That issufficient, " said the viceroy; "retire into the adjoining chamber and _keepquiet_--your jewels shall be restored. " His Excellency then despatched amessenger for the merchant, who immediately presented himself. 

"I have sent for you, " said the viceroy, "that we may talk over somematters in which your mercantile knowledge may be of use to the state. " Themerchant was overwhelmed with gratitude and joy; while the viceroy enteredinto conversation with him upon various affairs connected with hisprofession. Suddenly the viceroy put his hand first in one pocket, then inthe other, with the air of a man who has mislaid something. "Ah!" said he, "my snuff-box. Excuse me for a moment while I go to fetch it from the nextroom. " "Sir!" said the merchant, "permit me to have the honour of offeringmy box to your Excellency. " His Excellency received it as if mechanically, holding it in his hand and talking, till pretexting some business, he wentout, and calling an officer, desired him to take that snuff-box to themerchant's house, asking his wife as from him, by that token, to deliver tothe bearer a case of jewels which he had there. The viceroy returned to theapartment where he had left his flattered guest, and remained inconversation with him until the officer returned, and requesting privatespeech of the viceroy, delivered to him a jewel-case which he had receivedfrom the merchant's wife. 

Revillagigedo then returned to his fair complainant, and under pretence ofshowing her some rooms in the palace, led her into one, where amongst manyobjects of value, the jewel-case stood open. No sooner had she cast hereyes upon it than she started forward in joy and amazement. The viceroyrequested her to wait there a little longer, and returned to his otherguest. "Now, " said he, "before going further, I wish to hear the truthconcerning another affair in which you are interested. Are you acquaintedwith the Señora de -----?" "Intimately, sir--she is my _comadre_. " "Did youlend her eight hundred dollars, at such a date?" "I did. " "Did she give youa case of jewels in pledge?" "Never, " said the merchant, vehemently. "Themoney was lent without any security; merely as an act of friendship, andshe has invented a story concerning some jewels, which has not theslightest foundation. " In vain the viceroy begged him to reflect, and not, by adding falsehood to treachery, force him to take measures of severity. The merchant with oaths persisted in his denial. The viceroy left the roomsuddenly, and returned with the jewel-case in his hand; at which unexpectedapparition, the astonished merchant changed colour, and entirely lost hispresence of mind. The viceroy ordered him from his presence, with a severerebuke for his falsehood and treachery, and an order never again to enterthe palace. At the same time he commanded him to send him, the nextmorning, eight hundred dollars with five hundred more; which he did, andwhich were, by the viceroy's order, distributed amongst the hospitals. HisExcellency is said to have added a severe reprimand to the lady, for havingmade a bargain without writing. 

Another story which I recollect, is as follows: A poor Indian appearedbefore the viceroy, and stated that he had found in the street a bag fullof golden ounces, which had been advertised with the promise of a handsomereward to the person who should restore them to the owner; that uponcarrying them to this Don -----, he had received the bag, counted theounces, extracted two, which he had seen him slip into his pocket; and hadthen reproached the poor man with having stolen part of the money, hadcalled him a thief and a rascal, and, instead of rewarding, had driven himfrom the house. With the viceroy there was no delay. Immediate action washis plan. Detaining the Indian, he despatched an officer to desire theattendance of Don ----- with his bag of ounces. He came, and the viceroydesired him to relate the circumstances, his practised eye reading hisfalsehood at a glance. "May it please your Excellency, I lost a bagcontaining gold. The Indian, now in your Excellency's presence, brought itto me in hopes of a reward, having first stolen part of its contents. Idrove him from the house as a thief, who, instead of recompense, deservespunishment. "

"Stay, " said the viceroy, "there is some mistake here. How many ounces werethere in the bag you lost?" "Twenty-eight. " "And how many are here?" "Buttwenty-six. " "Count them down. I see it is as you say. The case is clear, and we have all been mistaken. Had this Indian been a thief, he would neverhave brought back the bag, and stolen merely two ounces. He would have keptthe whole. It is evident that this is not your bag but another which thispoor man has found. Sir, our interview is at an end. Continue to search foryour bag of gold; and as for you, friend, since we cannot find the trueowner, sweep up these twenty-six pieces and carry them away. They areyours. " So saying, his Excellency bowed out the discomfited cheat and theoverjoyed rustic. Mr. ----- says that this story, he thinks, is taken fromsomething similar in an oriental tale. However, it _may_ have occurredtwice. 

A horrible murder took place in 1789, during the vice-royaltyship ofRevillagigedo, which is remarkable in two particulars; the triflingcircumstances which led to its discovery, and the energy displayed by theviceroy, contrasting strongly with the tardy execution of justice in ourdays. There lived in Mexico at that period, in the street of _Cordovanes_, No. 15, a rich merchant of the name of Don Joaquin Dongo. A clerk namedJosé Joaquin Blanco, who had formerly been in his office, having falleninto vicious courses, and joined in companionship with two other young men, Filipe Aldama and Baltazar Quintero gamblers and cock-fighters (withreverence be it spoken) like himself, formed, in concert with them, a planfor robbing his former master. 

They accordingly repaired to the house one evening when they knew thatDongo was from home, and imitating the signal which Blanco knew thecoachman was in the habit of making to the porter when the carriagereturned at night, the doors were immediately thrown open, and the robbersentered. The porter was their first victim. He was thrown down and stabbed. A postman, who was waiting with letters for the return of the master of thehouse, was the next, and then the cook, and so on, until eleven layweltering in their blood. The wretches then proceeded to pick the locks ofthe different bureaux, guided by Blanco, who, in his former capacity, hadmade himself _au fait_ of all the secrets of the house. They obtainedtwenty-two thousand dollars in specie, and about seven thousand dollars'worth of plate. 

Meanwhile the unfortunate master of the house returned home, and at theaccustomed signal the doors were opened by the robbers, and on the entranceof the carriage, instantly relocked. Seeing the porter bathed in blood, anddead bodies lying at the foot of the staircase, he comprehended at once hisdesperate situation, and advancing to Aldama, who stood near the door, hesaid, "My life is in your hands; but for God's sake, show some mercy, anddo not murder me in cold blood. Say what sums of money you want. Take allthat is in the house, and leave me, and I swear to keep your secret. "Aldama consented, and Dongo passed on. As he ascended the stairs, steppingover the body of the postman, he encountered Quintero, and to him he madethe same appeal, with the same success; when Blanco, springing forward, held his sword to Quintero's breast, and swearing a great oath, exclaimed, "If you do not stab him, I will kill you on the spot!" Conceive, for onemoment, the situation of the unfortunate Dongo, surrounded by the murderedand the murderers in his own house, at the dead of the night, and without ahope of assistance! The suspense was momentary. Thus adjured, Quinterostabbed him to the heart. 

The murderers then collected their spoil, and it being still dark, two ofthem got into Dongo's carriage, the third acting as coachman, and so droveswiftly out of the gates of the city, till, arriving at a deserted spot, not far from a village, they turned the carriage and mules adrift, andburied their treasure, which they transported afterwards to a house in theCalle de la Aguila (the street of the eagle), No. 23; and went about theiravocations in the morning, as if nothing had occurred. Meanwhile, thepublic consternation may be conceived, when the morning dawned upon thisbloody tragedy. As for the viceroy, he swore that the murderers should bediscovered, and hanged before his eyes, that day week. 

Immediately the most energetic measures were taken, and the gates of thecity shut, to prevent all egress. Orders were given through all thedifferent districts of the capital, that every guest, or visitor, orboarder, whether in inn or lodging, or private house, should have theirnames given up to the police, with an account of their condition, occupation, motives for living in Mexico, etc. Strict cognizance was takenin all the villages near the capital, of every person who had passedthrough, or entered, or left the village within a certain space of time. All the roads near the capital were scoured by parties of soldiers. Everyhidden place was searched by the police; every suspected house entered. Thefuneral of the ill-fated Dongo and of the other victims, took place thefollowing day; and it was afterwards remembered that Aldama was thereamongst the foremost, remarking and commenting upon this horrible wholesalebutchery, and upon the probabilities of discovering the murderers. 

A country family from a neighbouring village, hearing of all these doingsin Mexico, and with that love of the marvellous which characterizes personsuneducated, or unaccustomed to the world, determined to pay a visit to thecapital, and to hear at the fountain head, all these wonderful stories, which had probably reached them under a hundred exaggerated forms. Nosooner had they entered their lodgings, than they were visited and examinedby the police, and their deposition taken down as to their motives forvisiting the capital, their place of birth, etc. As a gratuitous piece ofinformation, one of them mentioned, that, passing by a barber's shop(probably with his eyes opened wide in the expectation of seeing horriblesights), he had observed a man talking to the barber, who had a stain ofblood upon his _queue_ (hair being then worn powdered and tied behind). Trifling as this circumstance appears to us, the viceroy ordered that theperson who mentioned it should instantly conduct the police officers to theshop where he had observed it. The shop being found, the barber wasquestioned as to what persons he had been conversing with that morning, andmentioned about half-a-dozen; amongst others _Aldama_, who did not bear avery good reputation. Aldama was sent for, confronted with the man who gavethe information, identified as the same, and the stain of blood beingobserved, he was immediately committed to prison upon suspicion. Beingquestioned as to the cause of the stain, he replied, that being at acock-fight, on such a day, at such an hour, the blood from one of the dyingcocks, which he held, had spirted up, and stained the collar of his shirtand his hair. Inquiries being made at the cock-pit, this was corroboratedby several witnesses, and extraordinary as it is, it is most probable thatthe _assertion was true_. 

But meanwhile, the mother of Blanco, deeply distressed at the dissolutecourses of her son, took the resolution (which proves more than anythingelse Revillagigedo's goodness, and the confidence which all classes had inhim) to consult the viceroy as to the means of converting the young man tobetter habits. It seems as if the hand of an avenging Providence hadconducted this unfortunate mother to take a step so fatal to her son. Shetold the viceroy that she had in vain attempted to check him, that his daysand nights were spent with profligate companions in gambling-houses and incock-pits, and that she feared some mischief would come some day from hisfighting and swearing and drinking; that but a few days since he had comehome late, and that she had observed that his stockings were _dabbled inblood_; that she had questioned him upon it, and that he had answeredsurlily he had got it in the cock-pit. Her narration was hardly concluded, before Blanco was arrested and placed in a separate cell of the same prisonwith Aldama. Shortly after, Quintero, only as being the intimate friend andcompanion of both parties, was taken up on suspicion and lodged in the sameprison; all being separately confined, and no communication permittedbetween them. 

It seems as if Quintero, perhaps the least hardened of the three, wasstruck with the conviction that, in the extraordinary combination ofcircumstances which had led to the arrest of himself and his companions invillany, the finger of God was too distinctly visible to permit a doubt ofultimate discovery to rest upon his mind, for he confessed at once, anddeclaring that he saw all denial was useless, gave a circumstantial accountof the whole. He begged for nine days' grace to prepare himself for death, but the viceroy would grant but three. When Aldama confessed, he made theavowal that he was guilty of a previous murder, when he was alcalde of avillage near Mexico, which was before the time of Revillagigedo, and forwhich he had been tried and acquitted. He being alcalde, the postman of thevillage was in the habit of passing by his house, giving him an account ofwhatever money he had collected, etc. One evening this man stopped atAldama's, and told him he was intrusted with a sum of fifteen hundreddollars to carry to a neighbouring village. At twelve o'clock he leftAldama's house, who, taking a short cut across the fields, reached thepostman by this other direction, stabbed him, and carried back the money. Next day, when the murder was made known, the alcalde, in his robes ofjustice, visited the body, and affected to institute a strict search forthe murderer. Nevertheless he was suspected and arrested, but escaped bybribery, and shortly after, leaving the village, came to the wider theatreof Mexico. 

The murderers having thus made their confession, were ordered to preparefor death. A scaffold erected between the central gate of the palace, andthat which is now the principal gate of the city guards, was hung withblack to denote that the criminals were of noble blood. An immense crowdwere assembled; and the viceroy, standing on the balcony of his palace, witnessed the execution in the great square, the _very day week_ that themurders were committed. 

The streets were then kept in perfect order, both as to paving andlighting; and on one occasion, having rode all through the city, as was hiscustom, to observe whether everything was in order for the holy week, heobserved that several parts of the different streets were unpaved, and outof repair; whereupon, sending for the head of the police, he desired thatthese streets should be paved and in order before the holy week, of whichit wanted but a few days. The officer declared the thing to be impossible. The viceroy ordered it to be done, on the penalty of losing his place. Early on the morning of Palm Sunday, he sent to know if all was inreadiness; and as the bells tolled for early mass, the last stone was laidon the Calle San Francisco, which completed the work. . . . 

It is said he frequently went about _incog_. , attended by one or twoaides-de-camp, by which means, like another Haroun Al Raschid, he wasenabled to discover and correct hidden abuses. By his orders, no monk couldbe out of his convent after vespers. Walking one evening along the streets, he encountered a monk in the Calle San Francisco, taking his pleasure longafter the appointed hour. The viceroy walked directly to the convent; andon making himself known, was received by the abbot with all due respect. "How many monks have you in your convent, father?" asked the viceroy. "Fifty, your Excellency. " "There are now only forty-nine. Call them over, see which is the missing brother, and let his name be struck out. " The listwas produced--the names called over, and only forty-five monks presentedthemselves. By order of the viceroy, the five who had broken through therules, were never again admitted into the convent. Alas! could hisExcellency have lived in these our degenerate days, and beheld certainmonks of a certain order drinking pulque and otherwise disportingthemselves! nay, seen one, as we but just now did from the window, strolling along the street by lamplight, with an _Yntida_ (Indian girl)tucked under his arm!. . . . 

One more anecdote of the "immortal Revillagigedo, " and I have done. It wasvery late at night, when not far from the gate of the city called "Thelost child, " (in commemoration of that period when "_the child Jesústarried behind in Jerusalem_, " and that his parents sought for himsorrowing, ) his Excellency encountered a good-looking damsel, walkingbriskly and alone, at these untimely hours; yet withal quiet and modest inher demeanour. Wishing to try the temper of her steel (or brass) he lefthis officers a little way behind; and perhaps they were not astonished. . . . "Oh! by no means, certainly not!"--when they saw the grave and severeRevillagigedo approach the fair maiden somewhat familiarly, and requestpermission to accompany her in her rambles, a proposal which wasindignantly rejected. "Anda!" (Come!) said his Excellency, "give overthese airs--you, a _mugercilla_, strolling about in search of adventures. "Imagine the feelings of his Excellency, on receiving in reply a tremendousand well-applied box on the ear! The staff rushed forward, and wereastonished to find the viceroy with a smiling countenance, watching theretreating steps of the adventurous damsel. "What! your Excellency--suchinsolence! such audacity! such--" "Come, come, " said the viceroy, "she hasproved herself worthy of our favour. Let instant inquiry be made as to herbirth and parentage, and as to her reasons for being on the streets atthis hour. They must be honest ones. " The result proved the viceroycorrect in his opinion. She was a poor girl, supporting a dying mother bygiving music lessons, and obliged to trudge on foot from house to house atall hours; and amongst her scholars was the daughter of an old lady wholived out of the gates of the city, and from whose house, being that ofher last visited pupil, she had frequently to return late at night. Onbeing informed of these particulars, his Excellency ordered her a pensionof three hundred dollars per annum, to be continued to the day of herdeath, and it is said she is still alive, though very old. This is makingone's fortune by a _coup de main_, or by a lucky hit!

August 6th. --This morning we had some very good music; Madame Castellan andthe tenor, and Madame Cesari having passed some hours here, together withMadame la Baronne de ----- and a few other gentlemen and ladies. LaCastellan was very amiable, and sang beautifully, but looked pale andfatigued. She has been very effective lately in the Somnambula. MadameCesari was in great beauty. 

About an hour after they had gone, the new Minister and his family madetheir _entree_ into Mexico. It is now, however, too late for us to returntill the autumn, as there is a great deal of fever at Vera Cruz; nor do weentirely give up hopes, as soon as C---n shall be at leisure, of makinganother journey on horseback into the interior. There are, however, rumoursof another pronunciamiento, and should this be the case, our presentquarters next to the palace will be more distinguished than agreeable. 

I have always had a curiosity to know why the Calle del Indio Triste(Street of the Sad Indian) was so called. We are on visiting terms with twoor three _houses_ in that street, and never pass those large black letters, which tell the passenger that this is the street of "_The Sad Indian_, "without my imagination figuring to itself that here some tragedy connectedwith the conquest must have taken place. It was therefore with great joythat I fell upon an article in the "Mosaico Mejicano, " purporting to givean explanation of this melancholy title-page to an otherwise very tolerable(in the way of houses) but very ill-paved street, where, amongst otherhandsome edifices, is the house of a rich Spaniard (Señor R---o), remarkable for its beautiful entrance and elegant _salons_. It appears thatthere are different traditions respecting it. One, that shortly after theconquest, a rich cacique lived there, who acted as a spy on his Indianbrethren, and informed the viceroy of all their plans and combinationsagainst the government; but that on one occasion, having failed to informhis patrons of an intended mutiny, they seized this pretext forsequestrating his property:--that afterwards, poor, abandoned and despised, he sat down in the corner of the street, weeping his misfortune and meetingwith no pity; until at length he abstained from all food for some days, andwas found dead in the corner of the street, sitting in the same melancholyposture; that the viceroy declared his wealth crown property, and with theintention of striking terror into the hearts of the malcontents, caused astone statue to be made representing the weeping Indian; that this statuewas placed at the corner of the street, with its back to the wall, and soremained until, the house being pulled down, the statue was sent to theMuseum, where it now is; the street retaining the name of the Sad Indian. 

But there is another tradition mentioned concerning the origin of the name, more interesting and even more probable. It appears that the ground nowoccupied by this street is the site of the Palace of Axayacatl, the fatherof Montezuma, last Emperor of Mexico. In this spacious and magnificentpalace the Spaniards were received and lodged, and, according toTorquemada, each in a separate apartment. There were a multitude of idolsin this dwelling, and though they had no separate temple, various feastswere dedicated to them. After the conquest they were for the most partbroken and destroyed, and it was only lately that, by accident, the head ofthe god of the waters, beautifully worked in serpentine marble, wasdiscovered there; still, one statue had been preserved, that of an Indian, said to have been placed there by the Aztecs, as a memorial of their sorrowat the death of Montezuma, to whom, on account of his misfortunes, theygave the name of "_el Indio triste_. " This was afterwards placed at thecorner of the new building erected there by the Spaniards, and gave itsname to the street. It is a melancholy looking statue, whomsoever it mayrepresent, of an Indian in a sitting posture, with a most dejected andforlorn air and countenance. The material is basaltic stone. 

11th. --C---n has just returned from seeing the general archives, which areall in confusion and going to ruin. Don Ygnacio Cuevas, who has the chargeof them, has written various works--the History of the Viceroys-theCalifornias, etc. --which were robbed or destroyed in the lastpronunciamiento. He related the story of Revillagigedo and the jewels, onlydiffering from _my_ friend's narrative in that he says it was not ajewel-case, but a diamond bracelet. He assured C---n that Mexico in Indianmeans "below this, " alluding to the population who, according to tradition, are buried beneath the _Pedregal_. 

18th. --News has arrived that General Paredes _pronounced_ in Guadalajara onthe eighth of the month! Strange rumours are afloat, and it is generallysupposed that Santa Anna is or will be the prime mover of the great changesthat are predicted. By many, however, it is talked of as very trifling, asa mere movement that will soon be put down. The plan which Paredes haspublished is essentially military, but announces a congress, which rendersit very popular in the departments. It has been adopted by the departmentsof Zacatecas, Durango, and Guanajvato. Meanwhile, everything continues hereas usual. We have been several times at the opera; the _paseos_ are verycrowded, and we had a musical _soirée_ the other evening, which was verygay, but from the signs of the times, will probably be our last in Mexico. 

28th. --This morning C---n took his farewell audience of the president, andthe new Minister was received. 

3Oth. --These few last days have chiefly been spent in paying visits ofceremony with the Señora -----. Nevertheless we spent an hour last eveningin the beautiful cemetery a little way out of the city, which is rather afavourite haunt of ours, and is known as the "_Panteon de Santa María_. " Ithas a beautiful chapel attached to it, where the daily mass is said for thedead, and a large garden filled with flowers. Young trees of differentkinds have been planted there, and the sight of the tombs themselves, intheir long and melancholy array of black coffins, with gold-letteredinscriptions, even while it inspires the saddest ideas, has somethingsoothing in its effect. They are kept in perfect order, and theinscriptions, though not always eloquent, are almost always full offeeling, and sometimes extremely touching. There is one near the entrance, which is pathetic in its native language, and though it loses much in thetranslation, I shall transcribe it:

"Here lie the beloved remains of Carmen and José Pimentel y Heras. Thefirst died the 11th of June, 1838, aged one year and eleven months; thesecond on the 5th of September of 1839, in the sixteenth month of hisexistence; and to their dear memory maternal love dedicates thefollowing:--

"EPITAPH. 

 "Babes of my love! my Carmen and José! Sons of your cherished father, Pimentel. Why have you left your mother's side? for whom? What motives have ye had to leave me thus? But hark! I hear your voice--and breathlessly I listen. I hear ye say--'To go to heaven! Mother! we have left thee to see our God!' Beloved shades! if this indeed be so, Then let these bitter tears be turned to joy. It is not meet that I should mourn for ye, Since me ye have exchanged for my God. To Him give thanks! and in your holy songs, Pray that your parents' fate may be like yours. "

LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH

Agitation--Storm--Revolution--Manifesto--Resembling a Game ofChess--Position of the Pieces--Appearance of the City--Firing--State ofParties--Comparisons--"_Comicios_"--The People--Congress--SantaAnna--Amnesty offered--Roaring of Cannon--Proclamation--Time to _look athome_--The Will of the Nation--Different Feelings--Judge's Housedestroyed--The Mint in Requisition--Preparations--Cannonading--"_LosEnanos_. "

31st. 

This afternoon the clouds, gathered together in gloomy masses, announced athunderstorm, and at the same time a certain degree of agitation apparentlypervading the city was suddenly observable from our balconies. Shops wereshutting up; people hurrying in all directions, heads at all the windows, and men looking out from the azoteas; but as these symptoms wereimmediately followed by a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning andsplashing rain, we trusted that the cause had been very simple. But theseelements of nature are wielded by the Hand that called them forth, and canstay them at His will, and the sun breaking forth smilingly and scatteringthe clouds, made us feel that the storm had but refreshed the parched earthand cleared the sultry atmosphere. Not so with the storm which has beenbrooding in the hearts of a handful of ambitious men, and which has burstforth at last, its bolts directed by no wise or merciful power, and by thehands of selfish and designing and short-sighted mortals. 

The storm, though short, had not pased away, when news was brought us of anew _revolution in Mexico_! General Valencia, he who pronounced (but twoshort months ago!) the high-flown and flattering speech to the president, on receiving the sword of honour, has now _pronounced_ in a very differentand much clearer manner. Listen to him now:--

"Soldiers! The despotism of the Mexican government, the innumerable evilswhich the nation suffers, the unceasing remonstrances which have been madeagainst these evils, and which have met with no attention, have forced usto take a step this evening, which is not one of rebellion, but is theenergetic expression of our resolution to sacrifice everything to thecommon good and interest. The cause which we defend is that of allMexicans; of the rich as of the poor; of the soldier as of the civilian. Wewant a country, a government, the felicity of our homes, and respect fromwithout; and we shall obtain all; let us not doubt it. The nation will bemoved by our example. The arms which our country has given us for herdefence, we shall know how to employ in restoring her honour--an honourwhich the government has stained by not acknowledging the total absence ofmorality and energy in the actual authorities. The army which made herindependent shall also render her powerful and free. The illustriousGeneral Santa Anna to-day marches to Puebla, at the head of our heroiccompanions at Vera Cruz, while upon Queretaro, already united to thevaliant General Paredes, the brave General Cortazar now begins hisoperations. 

"In a few days we shall see the other forces of the republic in motion, allco-operating to the same end. The triumph is secure, my friends, and thecause which we proclaim is so noble, that conquerors, we shall be coveredwith glory; and, happen what may, we shall be honoured by ourfellow-citizens. "

In this manifesto, which is mere declamation, there is no plan. It appearsthat no one particularly counted upon General Valencia, and that, whetherfearing to be left out in the events which he saw approaching, orapprehensive of being arrested by the government, who suspected him, he hasthought it wisest to strike a blow on his own account. Pacheco, whocommanded the citadel, together with Generals Lombardini and Sales, who hadbeen ordered out to march with their respective regiments against the_pronunciados_, are now in the citadel, and in a state of revolt. The twolast had but just received money for the payment of their troops on thepreceding day. 

8 o'clock. --Nothing further, but that the president has sallied forth onhorseback from San Agustin; and was received with repeated _vivas_ by thepeople collected in the square. 

1st September. --This revolution is like a game at chess, in which kings, castles, knights, and bishops, are making different moves, while the pawnsare looking on or taking no part whatever. 

To understand the state of the board, it is necessary to explain theposition of the four principal pieces--Santa Anna, Bustamante, Paredes, andValencia. The first move was made by Paredes, who published his plan, and_pronounced_ on the eighth of August at Guadalajara. About the same time, Don F---- M----, a Spanish broker, who had gone to Manga de Clavo, was sentto Guadalajara, and had a conference with Paredes, the result of which was, that the plan of that general was withdrawn, and it was supposed that heand Santa Anna had formed a combination. Shortly after, the Censor of VeraCruz, a newspaper entirely devoted to Santa Anna, pronounced in favour ofthe plan of Paredes, and Santa Anna, with a few miserable troops, and ahandful of cavalry, arrived at Perote. Here he remains for the present, kept in check by the (government) General Torrejon. Meanwhile Paredes, withabout six hundred men, left Guadalajara and marched upon Guanajuato; andthere a blow was given to the government party by the defection of GeneralCortazar, who thought fit thus to show his grateful sense of having justreceived the rank of general of brigade with the insignia of this newgrade, which the president put on with his own hands. Another _check to thepresident_. Once begun, defection spread rapidly, and Paredes and Cortazarhaving advanced upon Queretaro, found that General Juvera, with hisgarrison, had already _pronounced_ there, at the moment that they wereexpected in Mexico to assist the government against Valencia. Paredes, Cortazar, and Juvera are now united, and their forces amount to twothousand two hundred men. 

Meanwhile General Valencia, pressed to declare _his plan_, has replied thathe awaits the announcement of the intentions of Generals Paredes and SantaAnna; and, for his own part, only desires the dismissal of GeneralBustamante. 

This, then, is the position of the three principal _pronounced_ chiefs, onthis second day of September of the year of our Lord 1841. Santa Anna inPerote, hesitating whether to advance or retreat, and, in fact, preventedfrom doing either by the vicinity of General Torrejon. Paredes inQueretaro, with the other revolted generals. Valencia in the citadel ofMexico with his _pronunciados_; while Bustamante, with Generals Almonte andCanalizo, the _mark_ against which all these hostile operations aredirected, is determined, it is said, to fight to the last. 

Mexico looks as if it had got a general holiday. Shops shut up, and allbusiness is at a stand. The people, with the utmost apathy, are collectedin groups, talking quietly; the officers are galloping about; generals, ina somewhat party-coloured dress, with large gray hats, striped pantaloons, old coats, and generals' belts, fine horses, and crimson-coloured velvetsaddles. The shopkeepers in the square have been removing their goods andmoney. An occasional shot is heard, and sometimes a volley, succeeded by adead silence. The archbishop shows his reverend face now and then upon theopposite balcony of his palace, looks out a little while, and then retires. The chief effect, so far, is universal idleness in man and beast, --thesoldiers and their quadrupeds excepted. 

The position of the president, however, is not so bad as at first sight itmight appear, or as it will be, if his enemies are permitted to reunite. Hehas upwards of two thousand men, twelve pieces of ordnance, and, though hisinfantry are few, and he has little artillery, he has good cavalry. Valencia has twelve hundred men, twenty-six pieces of ordnance, with goodinfantry, and almost all the artillery. The rebels have possessedthemselves of the Acordada, and given liberty to those who were imprisonedfor political opinions--a good loophole for the escape of criminals. 

Those who understand these matters say that the principal object of thegovernment should be to reduce the rebels to the citadel only, and tooccupy all the important points in its neighbourhood, San Diego, SanHipólito, San Fernando, etc. ; but as yet this has not been done, and the_pronunciados_ are gradually extending, and taking possession of thesepoints. . . . 

3rd. --They are now keeping up a pretty brisk fire between San Agustin andthe citadel. This morning the streets were covered with coaches, filledwith families leaving the city. 

4th. --Things are becoming more complicated. The rebels now occupy San José, Salto de Agua, the college of Vizcaynas (from which all the poor girls andtheir teachers have fled), Regina, San Juan de la Penitencia, San Diego, and San Fernando--a long line of important points. The president's linebegins at San Francisco, continuing by La Concepción; but, without a map ofthe city, you will not understand the position of the two parties. However, every turret and belfry is covered with soldiers, and the streets areblocked up with troops and trenches. From behind these turrets and trenchesthey fire at each other, scarcely a soldier falling, but numbers ofpeaceful citizens; shells and bombs falling through the roofs of thehouses, and all this for "_the public good_. "

The war of July had at least a shadow of pretext; it was a war of party, and those who wished to re-establish federalism may have acted with goodfaith. Now there is neither principle, nor pretext, nor plan, nor theshadow of reason or legality. Disloyalty, hypocrisy, and the most sordidcalculation, are all the motives that can be discovered; and those who thenaffected an ardent desire for the welfare of their country have now thrownaside their masks, and appear in their true colours; and the great mass ofthe people, who, thus passive and oppressed, allow their quiet homes to beinvaded, are kept in awe neither by the force of arms, nor by the depth ofthe views of the conspirators, but by a handful of soldiers, who arethemselves scarcely aware of their own wishes or intentions, but that theydesire power and distinction at any price. 

It is said that the federalists are very much elated, hoping for theeventual triumph of their party, particularly in consequence of aproclamation by Valencia, which appeared two days ago, and is called "theplan of the _Comicios_, " said to be written by General Tomel, who has goneover to the citadel, and who, having a great deal of classical learning, talks in it of the Roman _Committees_ (the _Comicios_). Since then therevolution has taken the name of liberal, and is supported by men of name, the Pedrazas, Belderas, Riva Palacio, and others, which is of greatimportance to Valencia, and has given force and consistency to his party. Besides this, the _pronunciados_ have the advantage of a free field fromthe citadel out to Tacubaya, where it is said that certain rich bankers, who are on their side, are constantly supplying the citadel with cartloadsof copper, which they send in from thence. . . . 

Meanwhile, we pass our time very quietly. In the morning we generally havevisitors very early, discussing the probabilities, and giving us the lastreports. Sometimes we venture out when there is no firing, which is muchless constant and alarming than it was last year. So far we continue tohave visitors in the evening, and Señor B---- and I have been playing duetson the harp and piano, even though Mexico is declared "in a state ofsiege. " The ----- Minister, who was here this morning, does, however, strongly recommend us to change our quarters, and to remove to Tacubaya;which will be so troublesome, that we are inclined to delay it until itbecomes absolutely necessary. . . . 

5th. --We went upon the azotea this afternoon, to have a good view of thecity. There were people on almost all the balconies, as on a fête-day. Apicturesque group of friars of the order of La Merced, in their whiterobes, had mounted up on the belfry of their church, and were looking outanxiously. The palace roof next our own had soldiers on it. Everything atthat moment was still and tranquil; but the conduct of the people is ourconstant source of surprise. Left entirely uncurbed, no one to direct them, thousands out of employment, many without bread, they meddle with nothing, do not complain, and scarcely seem to feel any interest in the result. Howeasily might such a people be directed for their good! It is said that alltheir _apathetic sympathies_ are in favour of Bustamante. 

Some say that Santa Anna will arrive to-day--some that the whole affairwill be settled by treaty; but neither reports nor bulletins can bedepended on, as scarcely any one speaks according to his true feelings orbelief, but according to his political party. . . . 

It appears that the conduct of congress in this emergency has given littlesatisfaction. They affect to give a declaration of the national will, andare as ambiguous as the Delphic Oracle; and it is said that their half-measures, and determination not to see that public opinion is against them, and that a thorough change can alone undermine this military revolution, will contribute more than anything to its eventual triumph. . . . 

The president has made use of the extraordinary powers which have beengranted him by the _Poder Conservador_ (conservative power, a singular andintermediate authority introduced into the Mexican constitution), toabolish the ten per cent, on consumption, and to modify the personalcontribution, reducing it to the richer classes alone. This concession hasapparently produced no effect. It is said that the government troopscontinue to desert, convinced that a revolution in which Santa Anna takespart must triumph. Four new generals have been made by the president. . . . 

6th. --We went out to Tacubaya, and found it impossible to procure a roomthere, far less a house. This is also the case at Guadalupe, San Joaquin, in fact in every village near Mexico. We are in no particular danger, unless they were to bombard the palace. There was a slight shock of anearthquake yesterday. 

10th. --On the 7th, the president offered an amnesty to the _pronunciados_. Whatever might have been the result, the evening concluded with a terriblethunderstorm, mingled with the roaring of cannon, which had a mostlugubrious effect. Many people were killed on the street. We had gone outin the morning, but met the Ex-Minister H---a, who strongly advised us toreturn home directly, as balls were falling, and accidents happening allround. 

Soon after a proclamation was issued by General Valencia, purporting thatif the president did not yield, he would bombard the palace; and that ifthe powder which is kept there were to blow up, it would ruin half thecity. This induced us to look at home, for if the palace is bombarded, theCasa de Moneda cannot escape, and if the palace is blown up, the Casa deMoneda will most certainly keep it company. When the proclamation came outin the morning, various were the opinions expressed in consequence. Somebelieved it to be a mere threat, and others that it would take place ateleven at night. An old supernumerary soldier who lives here (one of thosewho was disabled by the last revolution) assured us that we had betterleave the house, and as we refused, on the plea of having no safer house togo to, he walked off to the azotea, telling us he would _let us know_ whenthe first bomb fell on the palace, and that then we must go perforce. Inthe evening we went downstairs to the large vaulted rooms where they aremaking cannon balls, and where the vaults are so thick and solid, that itwas thought we should be in safety, even if General Valencia really kepthis word. We sat up that night till twelve o'clock, listening anxiously, but nothing happened; and now, in consequence of a deputation which hasbeen sent to the citadel by certain foreigners of distinction (thoughunknown to the government), we are no longer afraid of any sudden assaultof this kind, as General Valencia has promised, in consideration of theirrepresentations, not to proceed to these last extremities, unless driven tothem for his own defence. 

In listening to the different opinions which are current, it would seemthat Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Valencia are all equally unpopular; andthat the true will of the nation, which congress was afraid to express, wasfirst for the immediate convocation of a Constitutional Congress; andsecondly, that they should not be governed by Santa Anna, yet thatBustamante should renounce, and a provisional president should be named. . . . 

Santa Anna writes, complaining that Bustamante, by assuming extraordinarypowers, commanding the army and yet continuing president, is infringing theconstitution. But as he is coming on to destroy it entirely, this is beingrather particular. It is reported that the typhus fever is in the citadel, but there are many floating rumours which are not to be depended upon. . . . There is evidently a great deal of consternation beginning to be feltamongst the lower classes. Foreigners generally are inclined towards SantaAnna, Mexicans to Bustamante; but all feel the present evils. The léperosseem to swarm in greater numbers than ever, and last evening two smallshops were broken into and robbed. In vain the president publishesmanifestos that the shops may be opened; they remain carefully shut, allcommerce paralyzed, and every one, who has the means to do so, leaving thecity. 

We hear that the shells from the citadel have destroyed part of thebeautiful house belonging to Judge Pena y Penas, in front of the Alameda. 

11th. --We have just received private information from the government, thatthey will shortly require this house for arms and ammunition and troops;coupled with still more private advice to provide for our safety by leavingit. We shall therefore gladly accept the kind invitation of the F---afamily, to remove to their hacienda of San Xavier, about three leagues fromthis. We had at first declined this invitation, owing to its distance fromthe city--inconvenient for us, who are only waiting for the firstopportunity to leave it; but besides that after the most diligent search inall the surrounding villages, we cannot find a single unoccupied room, weare very glad to spend our remaining days in Mexico with so distinguished afamily. I shall therefore write little more at present on the subject ofthe revolution, which now that we have lived some time in Mexico, and haveformed friendships there, fills us with feelings entirely different fromthose which the last produced; with personal sentiments of regret, privatefears, and hopes for the future, and presentiments of evil which owe morethan half their sadness to individual feelings. 

12th. --We are now in the midst of all the confusion occasioned by anotherremoval; surrounded by trunks and boxes and _cargadores_, and at the sametime by our friends (all those who have not taken flight yet) taking leaveof us. . . . 

A great cannonading took place last night, but without any importantresult. The soldiers, in the day-time amuse themselves by insulting eachother from the roofs of the houses and convents. Yesterday, one of thepresident's party singled out a soldier in the citadel, shot him, and thenbegan to dance the _Enanos_, and in the midst of a step, _he_ was shot, androlled over, dead. . . . 

We shall write again from San Xavier. 

LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH

Leave Mexico-Travelling Equipage--San Xavier--FineHacienda--Millionaires--Well-educated Ladies--Garden, etc. --Tlanapantla--Indian Hut--Mrs. Ward--Doña Margarita--The_Pronunciamiento_--False Step--Santa Anna in Puebla--Neutrality--GeneralParedes--President in Tlanapantla--Tired Troops--Their March--TheirReturn--Curate's House--Murder--General Paredes in the Lecheria--Presidentin Tlanapantla--A Meeting--Return of the President and his Troops--GeneralParedes and his Men--Santa Anna in Tacubaya--A Junction--President inMexico--_Allied Sovereigns_--Plan--Articles--President declares forFederalism--Resigns--Results--Hostilities--Capitulation--TriumphalEntry--_Te Deum_--New Ministry. 

SAN XAVIER, 16th September. 

After a morning of fatigue, confusion, bustle, leave-taking, etc. , etc. , acoach with four mules, procured with the utmost difficulty, drove up to thedoor; the coach old and crazy, the mules and harness quite consistent, andthe postilions so tipsy that they could hardly keep their seats. But we hadno time to be particular, and climbed in amidst bows and hand-shakings, andprophecies of breaking down and of being robbed by a band of _forçats_headed by a Spaniard, who are said to be scouring the country; who are_said_ to be, for just now, seeing is believing, and few reports are worthattending to. However, we took two servants on horseback, by way of escort, and rattled off, the coach creaking ominously, the postilions swinging fromside to side, and our worthy housekeeper, whom we had carried off from thesmoking city, screaming out her last orders to the _galopina_, concerning acertain green parrot which she had left in the charge of thattender-hearted damsel, who, with her _reboso_ at her eyes, surrounded bydirectors of the mint, secretaries of legation, soldiers and porters, hadenough to do to take charge of herself. The city looked very sad, as wedrove through the streets; with closed shops, and barred windows, andcannon planted, and soldiers riding about. At every village we passed, thedrivers called for brandy, tossed off a glassful, which appeared to actlike a composing draught, as they gradually recovered their equilibrium. Wewere glad to arrive at San Xavier, where we received a most cordialwelcome, and to be removed, at least for a while, from sights and sounds ofdestruction. A great part of the road to _Tlanapantla_, the village nearwhich San Xavier is situated, leads through traces of the ruins of theancient Tenochtitlan. 

This part of the country is extremely pretty, being a corn and not a magueydistrict. Instead of the monotonous and stiff maguey, whose head neverbends to the blast, we are surrounded by fields of waving corn. There arealso plenty of trees; poplar, ash, and elm; and one flourishing specimen ofthe latter species, which we see from the windows in front of the house, was brought here by Mr. Poinsett. The hacienda, which is about threeleagues from Mexico, is a large irregular building in rather a lowsituation, surrounded by dark blue hills. It belongs to the Señoras deF---a, of the family of the Marquis de A---o; _millionaires_--being rich inhaciendas and silver-mines; very religious, very charitable, and what isless common here, extremely learned; understanding French, English, German, and even Latin. Their education they owe to the care of their father, oneof the most distinguished men in Mexico, who was banished twice, once forliberal opinions, and the second time for supporting the "Plan of Iguala, "in fact for not being liberal enough. In these emigrations, his familyaccompanied him, travelled over a great part of Europe, and profited bytheir opportunities. They returned here when the independence wasaccomplished, hoping for peace, but in vain. Constant alarms, and perpetualrevolutions have succeeded one another ever since that period. 

The hacienda has the usual _quantum_ of furniture belonging to thesecountry houses; and it is certainly no longer a matter of surprise to us, that rich proprietors take little interest in embellishing them. A housewhich will in all probability be converted once a year into a barrack, isdecidedly better in a state of nature, than encumbered with elegantfurniture. This house has been entirely destroyed in that way more thanonce, and the last time that it was occupied by troops, was left like anAugean stable. We have here the luxury of books. My room opens into abeautiful chapel, covered with paintings representing saints and virginsholding lilies, where mass is said occasionally, though the familygenerally attend mass in the village church of Tlanapantla. Before thehouse is a small flower-garden filled with roses and peculiarly finedahlias, pomegranate-trees and violets, which, though single, have adelicious fragrance. This stretches out into an immense vegetable-gardenand orchard, terminating in a shrubbery, through which walks are cut, impervious to the sun at noon-day. There is also a large reservoir ofwater, and the garden, which covers a great space of ground, is kept ingood order. There are beautiful walks in the neighbourhood, leading toIndian villages, old churches, and farms; and all the lanes are borderedwith fruit-trees. 

Tlanapantla, which means in Indian, _between lands_, its church having beenbuilt by the Indians of two districts, is a small village, with an oldchurch, ruined remains of a convent, where the curate now lives, a fewshops, and a square where the Indians hold market (_tangis_ they call it)on Fridays. All along the lanes are small Indian huts, with their usual mudfloor, small altar, earthen vessels, and collection of daubs on the walls;especially of the Virgin of Guadalupe; with a few blest palm-leaves in thecorner; occupied, when the men are at work, by the Indian woman herself, her sturdy, scantily-clothed progeny, and plenty of yelping dogs. Mrs. Ward's sketch of the interior of an Indian hut is perfect, as all herMexican sketches are. When the women are also out at their work, they arefrequently tenanted by the little children alone. Taking refuge from ashower of rain yesterday, in one of these mud huts, we found no one therebut a little bronze-coloured child, about three years old, sleeping allalone on the floor, with the door wide open; and though we talked loud, andwalked about in the cottage, the little thing never wakened. A secondshower drove us for shelter to a farmhouse, where we entered a sort oforatorio attached to the house; a room which is not consecrated, but has analtar, crucifix, holy pictures, etc. The floor was strewed with flowers, and in one corner was an old stringless violoncello, that might have formeda pendant to the harp of Tara. 

However, the most remarkable object of the rancho is its proprietress, atall, noble-looking Indian, Doña Margarita by name, a mountaineer by birth, and now a rich widow, possessing lands and flocks, though living inapparent poverty. The bulk of her fortune she employs in educating poororphans. Every poor child who has no parents, finds in her a mother andprotectress; the more wretched, or sick, or deformed, the more certain ofan asylum with her. She takes them into her house, brings them up as herown children, has them bred to some useful employment, and when they areold enough, married. If it is a boy, she chooses him a wife from amongstthe girls of the mountains, where she was born, who she says are "lesscorrupted" than the girls of the village. She has generally from twelve totwenty on her hands, always filling up with new orphans the vacanciescaused in her small colony by death or marriage. There is nothingpicturesque about these orphans, for, as I said before, the most deformedand helpless, and maimed and sick, are the peculiar objects of DoñaMargarita's care; nevertheless, we saw various healthy, happy-lookinggirls, busied in various ways, washing and ironing, and sewing, whose veryeyes gleamed when we mentioned her name, and who spoke of her with arespect and affection that it was pleasant to witness. Truly, this woman isentitled to happy dreams and soft slumbers! The remainder of her fortuneshe employs in the festivals and ceremonies of the church; in fireworks, inornaments for the altars, etc. 

9th. --Every day a messenger arrives from Mexico, bringing news of the_pronunciamiento_, which are eagerly waited for, and read with intenseinterest. It is probable, now, that affairs will soon come to a crisis. Astep has been taken by the president, which is considered very imprudent bythose who are looking on in this great game. General Torrejon, who withnine hundred good soldiers kept Santa Anna in awe at Perote, has been sentfor to Mexico, Bustamante wishing to reunite his forces. These troops, together with those of Codallos (the Governor of Puebla) brings up his armyto three thousand five hundred, or some say to four thousand men, alleffective, and of which nine hundred are good cavalry. Bustamante being nowat the head of the army, Hechavarria exercises the executive power, according to the constitution, in his capacity of president of the Councilof State, (_Consejo de Estado_); the Mexicans having no vice-president. 

Santa Anna, who had until now remained in Perote with his unorganizedtroops, no officers on whom he could depend, and a handful of miserablecavalry, has moved forwards to Puebla. Arrived there, his numbers wereincreased by one hundred men of the Tobacco customs, (brought him bySeñor -----, who, with a rich Spanish banker went out to meet him, ) fortyhorsemen seduced from the escort of Codallos, and a company ofwatchmen! As yet, no movement has taken place or seems likely to takeplace in his favour in Puebla. Señor Haro is named governor of that cityin the place of Codallos, who was sent for to join the president inMexico; and Puebla, which used to be the great theatre of revolutions, hasremained on this occasion in the most perfect neutrality, neitherdeclaring for one party nor the other; probably the wisest course topursue at this juncture. Every one is of opinion that five hundred troopssent by Bustamante, would instantly put this mongrel army of Santa Anna'sto flight; for though he has collected about a thousand men, he has notthree hundred good soldiers. . . . 

On the other hand, General Paredes is marching in this direction withGeneral Cortazar, his orders from Santa Anna no doubt being to keep thepresident in play, and to divert his attention by treaties or preliminariesof treaties, whilst he continues to march with caution towards the capital. The great event to be dreaded by the government is a junction of the_pronunciado_ forces. As long as they are separate, it is in no immediatedanger; but like the bundle of rods, what can easily be broken separately, will assume strength when joined together. I make no further excuse fortalking about politics. We talk and think of little else. 

21st. --Yesterday (Sunday) we were startled by the intelligence, thatGenerals Canalizo and Noriega had arrived at the village in the middle ofthe night, with a large troop, and that General Bustamante himself had madehis appearance there at five in the morning: so that the peaceful littleTlanapantla had suddenly assumed a warlike appearance. As it lies on thedirect road to Guanajuato there could be no doubt that they were marchingto meet Paredes. C---n immediately walked down to the village to pay hisrespects to the president, who was lodged at the curate's, and meanwhileGeneral Noriega came to the hacienda to see the ladies. C---n found thepresident very much fatigued, having passed fourteen days and nights underarms, and in constant anxiety; General Orbegoso was with him. 

After breakfast we went down to the village to see the troops, who wereresting there for a few hours. The cavalry occupied the square, the horsesstanding, and the men stretched asleep on the ground, each soldier besidehis horse. The infantry occupied the churchyard. Dreadfully fatigued, theywere lying some on the grass, and others with their heads pillowed on theold tombstones, resting as well as they could with their armour on. Beforethey started, the curate said mass to them in the square. There was a gooddeal of difficulty in procuring the most common food for so many hungrymen. Tortillas had been baked in haste, and all the hens in the villagewere put in requisition to obtain eggs for the president and his officers. We sat down in a porch to see them set off; a melancholy sight enough, inspite of drums beating and trumpets sounding. An old soldier, who came upto water his own and his master's horse, began to talk to us of what wasgoing on, and seemed anything but enthusiastic at the prospects of himselfand his comrades, assuring us that the army of General Paredes was doubletheir number. He was covered with wounds received in the war against Texas, and expressed his firm conviction that we should see the Comanche Indianson the streets of Mexico one of these days; at which savage tribe heappeared to have a most devout horror; describing to a gaping audience themanner in which he had seen a party of them devour three of theirprisoners. . . . 

About four o'clock the signal for departure was sounded, and they went offamidst the cheers of the people. 

22nd. --Great curiosity was excited yesterday afternoon, when news wasbrought us that Bustamante, with his generals and troops, had returned, andhad passed through the village, on their way back to Mexico! Some say thatthis retrograde march is in consequence of a movement made in Mexico byGeneral Valencia--others that it has been caused by a message received fromGeneral Paredes. We paid a visit in the evening to the old curate, who waspretty much in the dark, morally and figuratively, in a very large hall, where were assembled a number of females, and one tallow candle. Of courseall were talking politics, and especially discoursing of the visit of thepresident the preceding night, and of his departure in the morning, and ofhis return in the afternoon, and of the difficulty of procuring tortillasfor the men, and eggs for the officers. 

23rd. --We have received news this morning of the murder of our porter, theSpaniard whom we had brought from Havana. He had left us, and was employedas porter in a _fabrica_ (manufactory), where the wife and family of theproprietor resided. Eight of General Valencia's soldiers sallied forth fromthe citadel to rob this factory, and poor José, the most faithful andhonest of servants, having valiantly defended the door, was cruellymurdered. They afterwards entered the building, robbed, and committeddreadful outrages. They are selling printed papers through the streetsto-day, giving an account of it. The men are taken up, and it is said willbe shot by orders of the general; but we doubt this, even though a messagehas arrived, requiring the attendance of the _padre_ who confessescriminals; a Franciscan monk, who, with various of his brethren, are livinghere for safety at present. 

The situation of Mexico is melancholy. 

24th. --News have arrived that General Paredes has arrived at the_Lecheria_, an hacienda belonging to this family, about three leagues fromSan Xavier: and that from thence he sent one of the servants of the farm toMexico, inviting the president to a personal conference. The family takethis news of their hacienda's being turned into military quarters veryphilosophically; the only precaution on these occasions being to concealthe best horses, as the _pronunciados_ help themselves, without ceremony, to these useful quadrupeds, wherever they are to be found. 

26th. --This morning, General Bustamante and his troops arrived atTlanapantla, the president in a coach. Having met C---n on the road, hestopped for a few moments and informed him that he was on his way to meetGeneral Paredes at the _Lecheria_, where he hoped to come to a compositionwith him. We listened all day with anxiety, but hearing no firing, concluded that some arrangement had in fact been made. In the evening wewalked out on the high-road, and met the president, the governor, and thetroops all returning. What securities Bustamante can have received, no onecan imagine, but it is certain that they have met without striking a blow. It was nearly dusk as they passed, and the president bowed cheerfully, while some of the officers rode up, and assured us that all was settled. 

Sunday, 27th. --Cavalry, infantry, carriages, cannon, etc. , are all passingthrough the village. These are the _pronunciados_, with General Paredes, following to Mexico. Feminine curiosity induces me to stop here, and tojoin the party who are going down to the village to see them pass. . . . 

We have just returned after a sunny walk, and an _inspection_ of the_pronunciados_--they are too near Mexico now for me to venture to call them_the rebels_. The infantry, it must be confessed, was in a very ragged andrather drunken condition--the cavalry better, having _borrowed_ freshhorses as they went along. Though certainly not _point-device_ in theiraccoutrements, their good horses, high saddles, bronze faces, andpicturesque attire, had a fine effect as they passed along under theburning sun. The sick followed on asses, and amongst them various masculinewomen, with _sarapes_ or _mangas_ and large straw hats, tied down withcoloured handkerchiefs, mounted on mules or horses. The sumpter mulesfollowed, carrying provisions, camp-beds, etc. ; and various Indian womentrotted on foot in the rear, carrying their husbands' boots and clothes. There was certainly no beauty amongst these feminine followers of the camp, especially amongst the mounted Amazons, who looked like very ugly men in asemi-female disguise. The whole party are on their way to Tacubaya, to joinSanta Anna! The game is nearly up now. _Check from two knights and acastle_--from Santa Anna and Paredes in Tacubaya, and from Valencia in thecitadel. People are flying in all directions, some from Mexico, and othersfrom Guadalupe and Tacubaya. . . . 

It appears that Santa Anna was marching from Puebla, feeling his waytowards the capital in fear and trembling. At Rio Frio a sentinel's gunhaving accidentally gone off, the whole army were thrown into the mostludicrous consternation and confusion. Near Oyotla the general's browcleared up, for here he was met by commissioners from the government, Generals Orbegoso and Guyame. In a moment the quick apprehension of SantaAnna saw that the day was his own. He gave orders to continue the marchwith all speed to Tacubaya, affecting to listen to the proposals of thecommissioners, amusing them without compromising himself, and offering totreat with them at _Mexicalsingo_. They returned without having receivedany decided answer, and without, on their part, having given any assurancethat his march should not be stopped; yet he has been permitted to arriveunmolested at Tacubaya, where Paredes has also arrived, and where he hasbeen joined by General Valencia; so that the three _pronunciado_ generalsare now united there to dispose of the fate of the republic. . . . 

The same day General Almonte had an interview with Santa Anna, who saidwith a smile, when he left him, "_Es buen muchacho_ (he is a good lad)--hemay be of service to us yet. " . . . 

The three _allied sovereigns_ are now in the archbishop's palace atTacubaya, from whence they are to dictate to the president and the nation. But they are, in fact, chiefly occupied with their respective engagementsand respective rights. Paredes wishes to fulfil his engagements with thedepartments of Guanjuato, Jalisco, Zacatecas, Aguas Calientes, Queretaro, etc. In his _plan_ he promised them religious toleration, permission forforeigners to hold property, and so on--the last, in fact, being hisfavourite project. Valencia, on his side, has his engagements to fulfilwith the federalists, and has proposed Señor Pedraza as an integral part ofthe regeneration--one whose name will give confidence now and ever to hisparty. General Santa Anna has engagements _with himself_. He has determinedto command them all, and allows them to fight amongst themselves, providedhe governs. Paredes is, in fact, furious with Valencia, accusing him ofhaving interfered when not wanted, and of having ruined his _plan_, bymingling it with a revolution, with which it had no concern. He does notreflect that Valencia was the person who gave the mortal wound to thegovernment. Had he not revolted, Santa Anna would not have left Perote, norParedes himself passed on unmolested. . . . 

The conservative body has been invited to go to Tacubaya, but has refused. The majority desire the election of Paredes, or of any one who is not SantaAnna or Valencia; but Paredes himself, while drawing no very flatteringportrait of Santa Anna, declares that he is the only man in the republicfit for the presidency--the only man who can make himself obeyed--in short, the only one capable of taking those energetic measures which the safety ofthe republic requires. He flatters himself that he, at the head of hisdivision, will always keep Santa Anna in check; as if Cortazar, whodeserted Bustamante in a moment of difficulty, could be depended on!. . . 

Meanwhile they are fortifying Mexico; and some suppose that Bustamante andhis generals have taken the rash determination of permitting all theirenemies to unite, in order to destroy them at one blow. . . . 

29th. --There being at present an armistice between the contending parties, a document was published yesterday, fruits of the discussion of the alliedpowers at Tacubaya. It is called "_las bases de Tacubaya_, " and beingpublished in Mexico by General Almonte, many expected and hoped that a new_pronunciamiento_ would be the consequence; but it has been quietlyreceived, and the federalists welcome it as containing the foundations offederalism and popularity. There are thirteen articles, which are asfollow:

By the first--It is the will of the nation that the supreme powersestablished by the constitution of '36 have ceased, excepting the judicial, which will be limited in its functions to matters purely judicial, conformably to the existing laws. 

By the second--A _junta_ is to be named, composed of two deputies from eachdepartment, elected by his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief of the Mexicanarmy, Don Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, in order that they may be entirelyfree to point out the person who is to hold the executive powerprovisionally. 

By the third--This person is immediately to assume the executive power, taking an oath in the presence of the junta to set for the welfare of thenation. 

By the fourth--The provisional executive power shall in two months convokea new congress, which, with ample powers, shall engage to reconstitute thenation, as appears most suitable to them. 

By the fifth--This congress extraordinary shall reunite in six months afterit is convened, and shall solely occupy itself in forming the constitution. 

By the sixth--The provincial executive shall answer for its acts before thefirst constitutional congress. 

By the seventh--The provincial executive shall have all the powersnecessary for the organization of all the branches of the publicadministration. 

By the eighth--Four Ministers shall be named, of foreign and homerelations, of public instruction and industry, of treasury, and of war andmarine. 

By the ninth--Each department is to have two trustworthy individuals toform a council, which shall give judgment in all matters on which they maybe consulted by the executive. 

By the tenth--Till this council is named, the _junta_ will fulfil itsfunctions. 

By the eleventh--Till the republic is organized, the authorities in thedepartments which have not opposed, and will not oppose the national will, shall continue. 

By the twelfth--The general-in-chief and all the other generals promise toforget all the political conduct of military men or citizens during thepresent crisis. 

By the thirteenth--When three days have passed after the expiration of thepresent truce, if the general-in-chief of the government does not adoptthese _bases_, their accomplishment will be proceeded with; and theydeclare, in the name of the nation, that this general, and all the troopswho follow him, and all the so-called authorities which counteract thisnational will, shall be held responsible for all the Mexican blood that maybe uselessly shed, and which shall be upon their heads. 

3Oth. --To the astonishment of all parties, Bustamante and his generals_pronounced_ yesterday morning for the federal system, and _this_ morningBustamante has resigned the presidency. His motives seem not to beunderstood, unless a circular, published by General Almonte, can throw anylight upon them. 

"Without making any commentary, " he says, speaking of the document ofTacubaya, "upon this impudent document, which proposes to the Mexicannation a military government, and the most ominous of dictatorships infavour of the false defender of public liberty, of the most ferocious enemyof every government that has existed in the country, I hasten to send it toyou, that you may have it published in this state, where surely it willexcite the same indignation as in an immense majority of the inhabitants ofthe capital, who, jealous of the national glory, and decided to loseeverything in order to preserve it, have spontaneously proclaimed there-establishment of the federal system, the whole garrison having followedthis impulse. There is no medium between liberty and tyranny; and thegovernment, relying on the good sense of the nation, which will not seewith indifference the slavery that is preparing for it, puts itself in thehands of the states, resolved to sacrifice itself on the altars of thecountry, or to strengthen its liberty for ever. 

"I enclose the renunciation which His Excellency Don Anastasio Bustamantemakes to the presidency, " etc. 

3rd October. --Though a very democratic crowd collected, and federalism wasproclaimed in Mexico, it appears that no confidence in the government wasinspired by this last measure. Some say that had Bustamante alone declaredfor the federal system, and had sent some effective cavalry to protect the_pronunciados_ of that party all through the country, he might havetriumphed still. Be that as it may, General Canalizo pronounced forfederalism on the second of October, but this is not followed up on thepart of the Generals Bustamante and Almonte, while the vice-president, _Hechavarria_, has retired to his house, blaming Almonte for havingpublished an official document without his knowledge. Everything is in astate of perfect anarchy and confusion. The léperos are going about armed, and no one remains in Mexico but those who are obliged to do so. It is saidthat in Tacubaya great uneasiness prevailed as to the result of this newmovement, and Santa Anna offered an asylum there to the congress andconservative body, although, by the ultimatum from Tacubaya, published onthe twenty-eighth, the constitution of '36 was concluded, and of coursethese authorities were politically dead. 

I had hardly written these words when the roaring of cannon announced thathostilities have recommenced. 

5th. --For the last few days, we have been listening to the cannon, and evenat this distance, the noise reverberating amongst the hills is tremendous. The sound is horrible! There is something appalling, yet humbling, in thesemanifestations of man's wrath and man's power, when he seems to usurp hisMaker's attributes, and to mimic his thunder. The divine spark kindledwithin him, has taught him how to draw these metals from the earth's bosom;how to combine these simple materials, so as to produce with them an effectas terrible as the thunderbolts of heaven. His earthly passions haveprompted him so to wield these instruments of destruction, as to defaceGod's image in his fellow-men. The power is so divine--the causes thatimpel him to use that power are so paltry! The intellect that creates thesemessengers of death is so near akin to divinity--the motives that put themin action are so poor, so degrading even to humanity!

On the third, there was a shower of bombs and shells from the citadel, ofwhich some fell into the palace, and one in our late residence, the mint. An engagement took place in the Virga; and though Bustamante's party werepartially victorious, it is said that neither has much reason to boast ofthe result. General Espinosa, an old insurgent, arrived at the village lastnight, and sent to request some horses from the hacienda, which were senthim with all convenient speed, that he might not, according to his usualplan, come and take them. In exchange for some half-dozen farm horses ingood condition, he sent half a dozen lean, wretched-looking quadrupeds, thebones coming through their skin, skeletons fit for dissection. 

News have just arrived to the effect that last night, at three o'clock, Bustamante suddenly left the city, drawing off all his troops from theturrets, and leaving General Orbegoso in the palace, with one hundred men. It was generally reported, that he had marched into the interior, to bringabout a federal revolution; but it appears that he has arrived atGuadalupe, and there taken up his quarters. A loud cannonading has beenkept up since ten o'clock, which keeps us all idle, looking out for thesmoke, and counting the number of discharges. 

6th. --A messenger has brought the intelligence that there had been morenoise and smoke than slaughter; the cannons being planted at suchdistances, that it was impossible they could do much execution. Numerousbulletins are distributed; some violently in favour of Bustamante andfederalism, full of abuse and dread of Santa Anna; others lauding thatgeneral to the skies, as the saviour of his country. The _allied_ forcesbeing in numbers double those of Bustamante, there is little doubt of theresult. 

7th. --_A capitulation_. Santa Anna is triumphant. He made his solemn entryinto Mexico last evening, Generals Valencia and Canalizo being at the headof the united forces. Not a solitary _viva_ was heard as they passed alongthe streets; nor afterwards, during his speech in congress. _Te Deum_ wassung this morning in the cathedral, the archbishop in person receiving thenew president. We have just returned from Mexico, where we went in searchof apartments, and with great difficulty have found rooms in the hotel ofthe Calle Vegara; but we shall remain here a day or two longer. There is nogreat difference in the general appearance of the city, except that theshops are reopened, and that most of the windows are broken. Immediatelyafter the morning ceremony, Santa Anna returned to the archbishop's palaceat Tacubaya; which residence he prefers to the president's palace inMexico. His return there, after his triumphant entry into the capital, wasvery much _en Rio_--a retinue of splendid coaches with fine horses, goingat full speed; the general's carriage drawn by four beautiful whitehorses--(belonging to Don F---- M----; the very same that were sent tobring us into Mexico) brilliant aides-de-camp, and an immense escort ofcavalry. Thus concludes the revolution of 1842, though not its effects. 

The new ministry, up to this date, are Señor Gomez Pedraza for Foreign andHome Relations; Castillo, _un petit avocat_ from Guadalajara, said to be afurious federalist and Latin scholar, for Public Instruction; GeneralTornel for War and Marine; and Señor Dufoo for the Treasury. Valenciaproposed Paredes for the War Department; but he declined, saying, "No, no, General--I understand you very well. You want to draw me from off mydivision. "

Those who know Bustamante best, even those who most blame him forindecision and want of energy, agree on one point; that the true motives ofhis conduct are to be found in his constant and earnest desire to sparehuman life. 

LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH

Santa Monica--Solidity--Old Paintings--Anachronism-Babies and Nurses fromthe _Cuna_--Society--Funds--Plan--Indian Nurses--Carmelite Convent--Midnight Warning--Old Villages and Churches--Indian Bath--San Mateo--TheLecheria--Fertility--_Nolino Viejo_--Dulness--Religious Exercises--Returnto Mexico--Mexican Hotel--New Generals--Disturbances--General Bustamante--Inconvenience--Abuses in the name of Liberty--Verses--Independencecelebrated. 

8th. 

The Revolution has lasted upwards of thirty-five days; and during thattime, though I have written of little else, we have been taking many ridesin the environs of this hacienda, some of which were very interesting. Weare also making the most of our last few days of Mexican country life. OnThursday we went on horseback with a large party to visit the mill of SantaMónica, an immense hacienda, which tradition, I know not with what truth, supposes to have been in former days the property of Doña Marina; a gift toher from Cortes. At all events, at a later period it belonged to theAugustine monks, then to a Mexican family, who lost their fortune fromneglect or extravagance. It was bought by the present proprietor for acomparatively trifling sum, and produces him an annual rent of thirty-fivethousand dollars upon an average. The house is colossal, and not more thanone-third of it occupied. The granaries, of solid masonry, contain fourteenthousand loads of corn--they were built about two hundred and fifty yearsago. From all the neighbouring haciendas, and even from many distantestates, the corn is sent to this mill, and is here ground, deposited, andsold on account of the owner, a certain portion deducted for the proprietorof Santa Mónica. It seems strange that they should have no windmills here, in a country colonized by Spain, where, according to _Cervantes_, they werecommon enough. The house is in a commanding situation, and the views of themountains, especially from the upper windows, are very grand. In some ofthe old, unoccupied apartments, are some good copies of old paintings, thecopies themselves of ancient date. There is the Angel announcing toElizabeth the birth of Saint John; a Holy Family, from Murillo; thedestruction of Sodom and Gomorrah, which is one of the best; particularlythe figures in the foreground, of Lot and his family. Lot's wife stands inthe distance, a graceful figure just crystallized, her head turned in thedirection of the doomed city. I looked into every dark corner, in hopes offinding some old daub representing Doña Marina, but without success. Thereis the strangest contrast possible between these half-abandoned palaces, and their actual proprietors. We had beautiful riding-horses belonging tothe hacienda, and enjoyed everything but the exceeding heat of the sun, aswe galloped home about one o'clock. . . . 

As a specimen of rather a remarkable anachronism, we were told that ajustice in the village of Tlanapantla, speaking the other day of GeneralBustamante, said, "Poor man--he is persecuted by all parties, just as JesúsChrist was by the _Jansenists_, the _Sadducees_, and the _Holy Fathers ofthe Church_!" What a curious _olla podrida_ the poor man's brain must be!

In the midst of the revolution, we were amused by a very peacefulsight--all the nurses belonging to the _Cuna_, or Foundling hospital, coming from the different villages to receive their monthly wages. Amongstthe many charitable institutions of Mexico, there appears to me (in spiteof the many prejudices existing against such institutions) none more usefulthan this. These otherwise unfortunate children, the offspring of abjectpoverty or guilt, are left at the gate of the establishment, where they arereceived without any questions being asked; and from that moment, they areprotected and cared for, by the best and noblest families in the country. The members of the society consist of the first persons in Mexico, male andfemale. The men furnish the money; the women give their time and attention. There is no fixed number of members, and amongst them are the ladies inwhose house we now live. The _President_ is the Dowager Marquesa deVivanco. When the child has been about a month in the _Cuna_, it is sent, with an Indian nurse, to one of the villages near Mexico. If sick or feebleit remains in the house, under the more immediate inspection of thesociety. These nurses have a _fiadora_, a responsible person, who lives inthe village, and answers for their good conduct. Each nurse is paid fourdollars per month, a sufficient sum to induce any poor Indian, with afamily, to add one to her stock. Each lady of the society has a certainnumber under her peculiar care, and gives their clothes, which are poorenough, but according to the _village fashion_. The child thus put out tonurse, is brought back to the _Cuna_ when weaned, and remains under thecharge of the society for life; but of the hundreds and tens of hundredsthat have passed through their hands, scarcely has one been left to grow upin the _Cuna_. They are constantly adopted by respectable persons, who, according to their inclination or abilities, bring them up either asfavoured servants, or as their own children; and the condition of a"_huérfano_, " an orphan, as a child from the hospital is always called, isperfectly upon a level with that of the most petted child of the house. Thenurses in the _Cuna_ are paid eight dollars per month. 

Upwards of a hundred nurses and babies arrived on Sunday, taking up theirstation on the grass, under the shade of a large ash-tree in the courtyard. The nurses are invariably bronze; the babies generally dark, though therewas a sprinkling of fair English or German faces amongst them, with blueeyes and blonde hair, apparently not the growth of Mexican land. Greatattention to cleanliness cannot be hoped for from this class, but thebabies looked healthy and contented. Each nurse had to present a paperwhich had been given her for that purpose, containing her own name, thename of the child, and that of the lady under whose particular charge shewas. Such as-"_María Josifa_-baby _Juanita de los Santos_-belonging to the_Señora Doña Matilde F----_, given on such a day to the charge of MaríaJoséfa. " Constantly the nurse had lost this paper, and impossible for herto remember more than her own name; as to who gave her the baby, or whenshe got it, was entirely beyond her powers of calculation. However, thenstept forward the _fiadora_ Doña Tomaso, a sensible-looking village dame, grave and important as became her situation, and gave an account of thenurse and the baby, which being satisfactory, the copper was swept into thenurse's lap, and she and her baby went away contented. It was pleasant tosee the kindness of the ladies to these poor women; how they praised thecare that had been taken of the babies; admired the strong and healthyones, which indeed nearly all were; took an interest in those who lookedpaler, or less robust; and how fond and proud the nurses were of theircharges; and how little of a hired, mercenary, _hospital_ feeling existedamong them all. . . . 

A judge in the village, who comes here frequently, a pleasant andwell-informed man, amused us this evening by recounting to us how he hadonce formed a determination to become a monk, through sudden fear. Beingsent by government to Toluca, some years ago, to inquire into the privatepolitical conduct of a _Yorkino_, he found that his only means of remainingthere unsuspected, and also of obtaining information, was to lodge in theconvent of the Carmelite friars. The padres accommodated him with a cell, and assisted him very efficaciously in his researches. But the first night, being alone in his cell, the convent large and dreary, and the wind howlinglugubriously over the plains, he was awakened at night by a deep sepulchralvoice, apparently close to his ear, tolling forth these words:

 "Hermanos, en el sepulcro acaba, Todo lo que el mundo alaba!"

 "My brothers, all must finish in the tomb! Of all that men extol, this is the doom. "

Exceedingly startled, he sprang up, and opened the door of his cell. A dimlamp faintly illuminated the long vaulted galleries, and the monks, likeshadows, were gliding to midnight prayer. In the dreariness of the night, with the solemn words sounding in his ear like a warning knell, he came tothe satisfactory conclusion that all was vanity, and to the determinationthat the very next day he would retire from the world, join this holybrotherhood, and bind himself to be a Carmelite friar for life. The daybrought counsel, the cheerful sunbeams dispelled the gloom, even within theold convent, and his scruples of conscience melted away. 

There are old villages and old churches in this neighbourhood that woulddelight an antiquary. In the churchyard of the village of San Andrés, isthe most beautiful weeping ash I ever saw. We took shelter from the sunyesterday under its gigantic shadow, and lay there as under a green vault. We saw to-day, near another solitary old church, one of the Indianoven-baths, the _temescallis_, built of bricks, in which there is neitheralteration nor improvement since their first invention, heaven alone knowsin what century. 

9th. --We rode last evening to another estate belonging to this family, called _San Mateo_, one of the prettiest places on a small scale we haveseen here. The road, or rather path, led us through fields, covered withthe greatest profusion of bright yellow sunflowers and scarlet dahlias, sotall that they came up to our horses' ears. The house is built in thecottage style (the first specimen of that style we have seen here), withthe piazza in front, large trees shading it, and a beautiful view from theheight on which it stands. It has rather an English than a Spanish look. Noone lives there but the agent and his wife--and a fierce dog. 

11th. --This morning we rose at five, mounted our horses, and accompanied bySeñor E----, together with the administrador and the old gardener, set offto take our last long ride from San Xavier; for this evening we return toMexico. The morning was fine and fresh, the very morning for a gallop, andthe country looked beautiful. We rode first to the _Lecheria_, whereGenerals Bustamante and Paredes had their last eventful conference, havingpassed on our way various old churches and villages, and another haciendaalso belonging to this family, whose estates seem countless. The _Lecheria_is a large unoccupied house, or occupied only by the administrador and hisfamily. It is a fine building, and its courtyard within is filled withflowers; but having neither garden nor trees near it, seems rather lonely;and must have been startled to find itself the _rendezvous_ of contendingchieftains. It is surrounded by fertile and profitable fields of corn andmaize. We staid but a short time in the house, and having observed with duerespect the chamber where the generals conferred together, remounted ourhorses and rode on. I have no doubt, by the way, that their meeting was themost amicable imaginable. I never saw a country where opponent parties bearso little real ill-will to each other. It all seems to evaporate in words. I do not believe that there is any real bad feeling subsisting at thismoment, even between the two rival generals, Bustamante and Santa Anna. Santa Anna usurped the presidency, partly because he wanted it, and partlybecause if he had not, some one else would; but I am convinced that if theymet by chance in a drawing-room, they would give each other as cordial an_ambrazo_ (embrace), Mexican fashion, as if nothing had happened. 

Our road led us through a beautiful track of country, all belonging to theLecheria, through pathways that skirted the fields, where the plough hadnewly turned up the richest possible soil, and which were bordered by wildflowers and shady trees. For miles our path lay through a thick _carpeting_of the most beautiful wild flowers imaginable: bright scarlet dahlias, gaudy sunflowers, together with purple and lilac, and pale straw-colouredblossoms, to all which the gardener gave but the general name of_mirasoles_ (sunflower). The purple convolvulus threw its creeping brancheson the ground, or along whatever it could embrace; while all these brightflowers, some growing to a great height, seemed, as we rode by them, to beflaunting past us in their gay colours, like peasants in their holidaydresses. The ground also was enamelled with a little low inquisitivelooking blossom, bright yellow, with a peeping brown eye; and the whole, besides forming the gayest assemblage of colours and groups, gave to theair a delicious fragrance. 

But at last we left these fertile grounds, and began to ascend the hills, part of which afford pasture for the flocks, till, still higher up, theybecome perfectly arid and stony. Here the whole landscape looks bleak anddreary, excepting that the eye can rest upon the distant mountains, of abeautiful blue, like a peep of the promised land from Mount Nebo. Afterhaving rode four leagues, the latter part over this sterile ground, affording but an insecure footing for our horses, we descried, low down ina valley, an old sad-looking building, with a ruined mill and some trees. This was the object of our ride; the "_molino viejo_" (old mill), anotherhacienda belonging to these rich lady proprietors; and profitable onaccount of the fine pasture which some of the surrounding hills afford. Nothing could look more solitary. Magdalene might have left her desert, andended her days there, without materially bettering her situation. The onlysign of life is a stream that runs round a very productive small orchard infront of the house, while on a hill behind are a few maguey plants, and onthe _mirador_, in front of the house, some creepers have been trained witha good deal of taste. There are bleak hills in front--hills with a scantyherbage behind it, and everywhere a stillness that makes itself felt:while, strange circumstance in this country! there is not even a churchwithin a league and a half. There has been a chapel in the house, but thegilded paintings are falling from the walls--the altar is broken, and thefloor covered with dried corn. The agent's wife, who sits here all alone, must have time to collect her scattered thoughts, and plenty of opportunityfor reflection and self-examination. Certain it is, she gave us a very goodbreakfast, which we attacked like famished pilgrims; and shortly after tookour leave. 

The heat on the shadeless hills had now become intense. It is only on suchoccasions that one can fully appreciate the sufferings of _Regulus_. Wereturned by the _carriage-road, _ a track between two hills, composed ofruts and stones, and large holes. On the most barren parts of these hills, there springs a tree which the Indians call _guisachel_; it resembles thesavine, and produces a berry of which ink is made. The road was bordered bybushes, covered with white blossoms, very fragrant. We galloped as fast asour horses would carry us, to escape from the sun; and passed a prettyvillage on the high road, which is a fine broad causeway in good repair, leading to Guanaxuato. We also passed _San Mateo_, and then rode over thefields fast home, where we arrived, looking like broiled potatoes. . . . 

We had a conversation with ----- this morning, on the subject of the"_ejercicios_, " certain religious exercises, to which, in Mexico, men aswell as women annually devote a certain number of days, during which theyretire from the world to a religious house or convent, set apart for thatpurpose, of which some receive male and other female devotees. Here theyfast and pray and receive religious instruction, and meditate uponreligious subjects during the period of their retreat. A respectablemerchant, who, in compliance with this custom, lately retired for a fewdays to one of these religious establishments, wrote, on entering there, tohis head clerk, a young man to whom he was much attached, informing himthat he had a presentiment that he would not leave the convent alive, butwould die by the time his devotional exercises were completed; giving himsome good advice as to his future conduct, together with his lastinstructions as to his own affairs. He ended with these words: "_hasta laeternidad_!" until eternity! The letter produced a strong effect on themind of the young man; but still more, when the merchant died at the end ofa few days, as he had predicted, and was carried from the convent to hisgrave. 

MEXICO, Calle Vergara, 12th. 

We reached Mexico last evening, and took up our quarters in an inn or hotelkept by an English woman, and tolerably clean, though of course not veryagreeable. A number of _pronunciado_ officers are also here--amongstothers, General -----, who I hope will be obliged to go soon, that we mayhave his parlour; a mysterious English couple; a wounded Colonel, an oldgentleman, a fixture in the house, etc. There is a _table d'hôte_, but Ibelieve no ladies dine there. Invitations to take up our quarters inprivate houses have been pressed upon us with a kindness and cordialitydifficult to resist. . . . 

Though politics are the only topic of interest at present, I think you willcare little for having an account of the Junta of Representatives, or ofthe elections, with their chiefly military members. Considering by whom themembers are chosen, and the object for which they are elected, the resultof their deliberations is, as you may suppose, pretty well knownbeforehand. Military power is strengthened by every act, and all this poweris vested in the commanders-in-chief. New batches of generals are made, inorder to reward the late distinguished services of the officers, andcolonels by hundreds. Eleven generals were created in the division ofParedes alone. Money has been given to the troops in the palace, withorders to purchase new uniforms, which it is said will be very brilliant. There appears, generally speaking, a good deal of half-smothereddiscontent, and it is whispered that even the revolutionary bankers arehalf repentant and look gloomy. The only opposition paper is "Un PeriódicoMás;" one more periodical--the others are all Ministerial. 

In the south there has been some trouble with Generals Bravo and Alvarez, who wish that part of the country to govern itself until the meeting ofcongress. There was some talk of putting Valencia at the head of the troopswhich are destined to march against them, but there are now negotiationspending, and it is supposed there will be some agreement made withoutcoming to bloodshed. It is said that orders were sent to General Almonte toleave the republic, and that he answered the despatch with firmness, refusing to acknowledge the authority of Santa Anna. General Bustamante, who is now in Guadalupe, intends to leave the scene of his disasters withina few months. C---n paid him a visit lately, and though scarcely recoveredfrom his fatigues both of body and mind, he appears cheerful and resigned, and with all the tranquillity which can be inspired only by a goodconscience, and the conviction of having _done his duty to the best of hisabilities_. . . . 

As for us personally, this revolution has been the most inconvenientrevolution that ever took place; doing us all manner of mischief; stoppingthe sale of our furniture, throwing our affairs into confusion;overthrowing all our plans, and probably delaying our departure untilDecember or January. But in these cases, every one must suffer more orless; and meanwhile, we are surrounded by friends and by friendlyattentions. It will be impossible for us to leave Mexico without regret. Itrequires nothing but a settled government to make it one of the firstcountries in the world. Santa Anna has much in his power. _Reste a savoir_how he will use that power. Perhaps in these last years of tranquillity, which he has spent on his estate, he may have meditated to some purpose. 

It is singular how, in trying to avoid small evils, we plunge into unknowngulfs of misery; and how little we reflect that it might be wiser to

 "Bear those ills we have, Than fly to others that we know not of. "

Every one has heard of the abuses that produced the first revolution inMexico--of the great inequality of riches, of the degradation of theIndians, of the high prices of foreign goods, of the Inquisition, of theignorance of the people, the bad state of the colleges, the difficulty ofobtaining justice, the influence of the clergy, and the ignorance in whichthe Mexican youth were purposely kept. Which of these evils has beenremedied? Foreign goods are cheaper, and the Inquisition _is not_; but thislast unchristian institution had surely gradually lost its power before thedays of the last viceroy?--But in the sacred name of _Liberty_, every abusecan be tolerated. 

 "O fatal name, misleader of mankind, Phantom, too radiant and too much adored! Deceitful Star, whose beams are bright to blind, Although their more benignant influence poured The light of glory on the Switzer's sword, And hallowed Washington's immortal name. Liberty! Thou when absent how deplored, And when received, how wasted, till thy name Grows tarnished; shall mankind, ne'er cease to work thee shame?

 "Not from the blood in fiercest battle shed, Nor deeds heroical as arm can do, Is the true strength of manly freedom bred, Restraining tyranny and licence too, The madness of the many and the few. Land, whose new beauties I behold revealed, Is this not true, and bitter as 'tis true? The ruined fane, the desolated field, The ruffian-haunted road, a solemn answer yield. 

 "Where look the loftiest Cordilleras down From summits hoary with eternal snow On Montezuma's venerable town And storied vale, and Lake of Mexico, These thoughts the shade of melancholy throw On all that else were fair, and gay, and grand As nature in her glory can bestow. For never yet, though liberal her hand, So variously hath she adorned, enriched one land. 

 "What boots it that from where the level deep Basks in the tropic sun's o'erpow'ring light To where yon mountains lift their wintry steep, All climes, all seasons in one land unite? What boots it that her buried caves are bright With wealth untold of gold or silver ore? While, checked by anarchy's perpetual blight, Industry trembles 'mid her hard-earned store, While rapine riots near in riches stained with gore?

 "O sage regenerators of mankind! Patriots of nimble tongue and systems crude! How many regal tyrannies combined, So many fields of massacre have strewed As you, and your attendant cut-throat brood? Man works no miracles; long toil, long thought, Joined to experience, may achieve much good, But to create new systems out of nought, Is fit for Him alone, the universe who wrought. 

 "But what hath such an hour of such a day To do with human crimes, or earthly gloom? Far wiser to enjoy while yet we may, The mock-bird's song, the orange flower's perfume, The freshness that the sparkling fountain showers. Let nations reach their glory or their doom, Spring will return to dress yon orange bowers, And flowers will still bloom on, and bards will sing of flowers. "

21st. --In pursuance of the last-mentioned advice, we have been breakfastingto-day at Tacubaya, with the ----- Minister and his family, and enjoyingourselves there in Madame -----'s garden. We have also just returned fromthe Marquesa de -----'s, where we had a pleasant evening, and met GeneralParedes, whom I like very much; a real soldier, thin, plain, blunt, and allhacked with wounds. 

23rd. --C---n has been dining at the ----- Minister's, where he met all thegreat actors in the present drama, and had an agreeable party. We are nowthinking of making our escape from this hotel, and of taking a horsebackjourney into Michoacán, which shall occupy a month or six weeks. Meantime Iam visiting, with the Señorita -----, every hospital, jail, college, andmadhouse in Mexico!

26th. --To-day they are celebrating their independence. All the bells in allthe churches, beginning with the cathedral, are pealing--cannonfiring--rockets rushing up into the air--Santa Anna in the Alameda, speechifying--troops galloping--little boys running--Te Deumchanting--crowds of men and women jostling each other--the streets coveredwith carriages, the balconies covered with people--the Paseo expected to becrowded. I have escaped to a quiet room, where I am trying to find time tomake up my letters before the packet goes. I conclude this just as thedictator, with his brilliant staff, has driven off to Tacubaya. 

LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH

Opera--Santa Anna and his Suite--His Appearance--_Belisario_--Solitary"_Viva!_"--Brilliant House--Military Dictatorship--_San Juan de Dios_--Hospital _de Jesús_--_Cuna_--Old Woman and Baby--Different Apartments--Acordada--Junta--Female Prisoners--Chief Crime--_Travaux Forces_--Children--Male Prisoners--_Forçats_--Soldier's Gambling--Chapel--Confessional--Insane Hospital--Frenchmen--Different Kinds of Insanity--Kitchen--Dinner--Insane Monk--"Black Chamber"--Soldiers--College--SantaAnna's Leg--Projects--All Saints--Señora P---a--Leave-takings. 

4th November. 

A great _función_ was given in the opera in honour of his excellency. Thetheatre was most brilliantly illuminated with wax lights. Two principalboxes were thrown into one for the president and his suite, and lined withcrimson and gold, with draperies of the same. The staircase leading to thesecond tier where this box was, was lighted by and _lined_ all the way upwith rows of footmen in crimson and gold livery. A crowd of gentlemen stoodwaiting in the lobby for the arrival of the hero of the fête. He came atlast in regal state, carriages and outriders at full gallop; himself, staffand suite, in splendid uniform. As he entered, Señor Roca presented himwith a libretto of the opera, bound in red and gold. We met the great man_en face_, and he stopped, and gave us a cordial recognition. Two yearshave made little change in him in appearance. He retains the sameinteresting, resigned, and rather melancholy expression; the same quietvoice, and grave but agreeable manner; and surrounded by pompous officers, he alone looked quiet, gentlemanly, and high bred. The theatre was crowdedto suffocation; boxes, pit, and galleries. There was no applause as heentered. One solitary voice in the pit said "Viva Santa Anna!" but itseemed checked by a slight movement of disapprobation, scarcely amountingto a murmur. The opera was Belisarius; considered _à propos_ to theoccasion, and was really beautifully _montée_; the dresses new andsuperb--the decorations handsome. They brought in real horses, andBelisarius entered in a triumphal chariot, drawn by white steeds; but forthis the stage is infinitely too small, and the horses plunged and prancedso desperately, that Belisarius wisely jumped out and finished his _aria_on foot. The two prima donnas acted together--the wife and daughter of thehero--both about the same age, and dressed very well. But the Castellan'svoice is not suited to the opera, and the music, beautiful as it is, wasthe least effective part of the affair. The generals, in their scarlet andgold uniforms, sat like peacocks surrounding Santa Anna, who looked modestand retiring, and as if quite unaccustomed to the public gaze! The boxeswere very brilliant--all the diamonds taken out for the occasion. HisExcellency is by no means indifferent to beauty--_tout au contraire_; yet Idare say his thoughts were this night of things more warlike and less fair. 

Let all this end as it may, let them give everything whatever name is mostpopular, the government is now a military dictatorship. Señor ----- callsthis revolution "the apotheosis of egotism transformed into virtue;" and itmust be confessed, that in most of the actors, it has been a merecalculation of personal interests. 

10th. --We went, some days ago, with our friends from San Xavier, to visitthe hospital of San Juan de Dios, at San Cosme. We found that, being atpresent under repair, it has but two occupants, old women--who keep eachother melancholy company. The building is very spacious and handsome;erected, of course, during Spanish dominion, and extremely clean--anobservation worthy of note, when it occurs in Mexican public buildings. There is a large hall, divided by square pillars, with a light and cheerfulaspect, where the patients sleep; and a separate apartment for women. Therooms are all so clean, airy, and cheerful, that one forgets it is anhospital. In this respect, the style of building here is superior to allothers, with large airy courtyards and fountains, long galleries andimmense apartments, with every window open. There is no part of Europewhere, all the year round, invalids can enjoy such advantages; but, also, there are few parts of Europe where the climate would permit them to do so. 

The following day we visited another hospital; that known as the _Hospitalde Jesús_--hallowed ground; for here the mortal remains of _Cortes_ weredeposited. And, though rescued from desecration by a distinguishedindividual, during a popular tumult, so that they no longer repose in thesanctuary of the chapel, there still exists, enshrined here, that overwhich time and revolutions have no power--his _memory_. 

The establishment, as an hospital, is much finer, and the buildinginfinitely handsomer than the other. The director, a physician, led usfirst into his own apartments, as the patients were dining, and afterwardsshowed us through the whole establishment. The first large hall, into whichwe were shown, is almost entirely occupied by soldiers, who had beenwounded during the _pronunciamiento_. One had lost an arm, another a leg, and they looked sad and haggard enough, though they seemed perfectly wellattended to, and, I dare say, did anything but _bless_ the revolutions thatbrought them to that state, and with which they had nothing to do; for yourMexican soldier will lie down on his mat at night, a loyal man, and willwaken in the morning and find himself a _pronunciado_. Each one had aseparate room, or at least a compartment divided by curtains from the next;and in each was a bed, a chair, and a small table; this on one side of thelong hall. The other was occupied by excellent hot and cold baths. We thenvisited the women's apartment, which is on a similar plan. Amongst thepatients is an unfortunate child of eight years old, who in the_pronunciamiento_ had been accidentally struck by a bullet, which enteredher left temple and came out below the right eye, leaving her alive. Theball was extracted, and a portion of the brain came out at the wound. Sheis left blind, or nearly so, having but a faint glimmering of light. Theysay she will probably live, which seems impossible. She looks like agalvanized corpse--yet must have been a good-looking child. Notwithstandingthe nature of her wound, her reason has not gone, and as she sat upright inher little bed, with her head bandaged, and her fixed and sightless eyes, she answered meekly and readily to all the questions we put to her. Poorlittle thing! she was shocking to look at; one of the many innocent beingswhose lives are to be rendered sad and joyless by this revolution. Thedoctor seemed very kind to her. 

A curious accident happened to Señor ----- in this last _pronunciamiento_. He had already lost his leg in the first one; and was limping along thestreet, when he was struck by a ball. He was able to reach his house, andcalled to his wife, to tell her what had occurred. Her first impulse was tocall for a doctor, when he said to her very coolly, "Not this time, --acarpenter will do better. " He had been shot in his _wooden leg_!

At the end of the women's apartment in this hospital, there is a smallchapel where mass is said to the invalids. It is only remarkable as havingover the altar an image of the _Purisima_, brought from Spain by Cortes. Wewent all through the building, even to the enclosure on the azotea, wheredead bodies are dissected; and on which azotea was a quantity of wool, taken from the mattresses of those who die in the hospital, and which isleft in the sun during a certain period before it is permitted to be usedagain. The whole establishment struck us as being healthy, cleanly, andwell-conducted. We then visited the fine old church, which has but onebroad aisle with a handsome altar, and near it is the small monument, underwhich the bones of the conqueror were placed. The sacristy of the church isremarkable for its ceiling, composed of the most intricately andbeautifully carved mahogany; a work of immense labour and taste, after theGothic style. The divisions of the compartments are painted blue andornamented with gilding. In the centre of the apartment is an immensecircular table, formed of one piece of mahogany; for which large sums havebeen refused. 

We went in the evening to visit the _Cuna_, which is not a fine building, but a large, healthy, airy house. At the door, where there are a porter andhis wife, the babies are now given in. Formerly they were put in at the_reja_, at the window of the porter's lodge; but this had to be given up, in consequence of the tricks played by boys or idle persons, who put indogs, cats, or dead animals. As we were going upstairs, we heard an oldwoman singing a cheerful ditty in an awfully cracked voice, and as we got afull view of her before she could see us, we saw a clean, old body sitting, sewing and singing, while a baby rolling on the floor in a state of perfectecstasy, was keeping up a sort of crowing duet with her. She seemeddelighted to see these ladies, who belong to the _Junta_, and led us into alarge hall where a score of nurses and babies were performing a symphony ofsinging, hushing, crying, lullabying, and other nursery music. All alongthe room were little green painted beds, and both nurses and babies lookedclean and healthy. The -----s knew every baby and nurse and directress byname. Some of the babies were remarkably pretty, and when we had admiredthem sufficiently, we were taken into the next hall, occupied by littlegirls of two, three, and four years old. They were all seated on littlemats at the foot of their small green beds; a regiment of the finest andhealthiest children possible; a directress in the room sewing. At ourentrance, they all jumped up simultaneously, and surrounded us with thenoisiest expressions of delight. One told me in a confidential whisper, that "Manuelita had thumped her own head, and had a pain in it;" but Icould not see that Manuelita seemed to be suffering any acute agonies, forshe made more noise than any of them. One little girl sidled up to me, andsaid in a most insinuating voice, "_Me llevas tu?_" "Will you take me awaywith you?"--for even at this early age they begin to have a glimmering ideathat those whom the ladies choose from amongst them are peculiarlyfavoured. We staid some time with them, and admired their healthy, happy, and well-fed appearance; and then proceeded to the apartment of the boys;all little things of the same age, sitting ranged in a row like senators incongress, and, strange to say, much quieter and graver than the femalebabies; but this must have been from shyness, for before we came away, wesaw them romping in great style. The directresses seem good respectablewomen, and kind to the children, who, as I mentioned before, are almost alltaken away and brought up by rich people, before they have time to knowthat there is anything peculiar or unfortunate in their situation. Afterthis adoption, they are completely on a level with the other children ofthe family--an equal portion is left them, and although their condition isnever made a secret of, they frequently marry as well as their adoptedbrothers and sisters. 

Those who are opposed to this institution, are so on the plea that itencourages and facilitates vice. That the number of children in thehospital is a proof that much vice and much poverty do exist, there is nodoubt; that by enabling the vicious to conceal their guilt, or by relievingthe poor from their burden, it encourages either vice or idleness, isscarcely probable. But even were it so, the certain benefits are soimmense, when laid in the balance with the possible evils, that they cannotbe put in competition. The mother who leaves her child at the _Cuna_, wouldshe not abandon it to a worse fate, if this institution did not exist? Ifshe does so to conceal her disgrace is it not seen that a woman will stopat no cruelty, to obtain this end? as exposure of her infant, even murder?and that, strong as maternal love is, the dread of the world's scorn hasconquered it? If poverty be the cause, surely the misery must be greatindeed, which induces the poorest beggar or the most destitute of theIndian women (whose love for their children amounts to a passion) to partwith her child; and though it is suspected that the mother who has left herinfant at the _Cuna_, has occasionally got herself hired as a nurse, thatshe may have the pleasure of bringing it up, it seems to me that no greatevil can arise, even from that. 

These orphans are thus rescued from the contamination of vice, frompoverty, perhaps from the depths of depravity; perhaps their very lives aresaved, and great sin prevented. Hundreds of innocent children are thusplaced under the care of the first and best ladies in the country, andbrought up to be worthy members of society. 

Another day we devoted to visiting a different and more painful scene--the_Acordada_, or public jail; a great solid building, spacious, and wellventilated. For this also there is a _Junta_, or society of ladies of thefirst families, who devote themselves to teaching the female malefactors. It is painful and almost startling to see the first ladies in Mexicofamiliarly conversing with and embracing women who have been guilty of themost atrocious crimes; especially of murdering their husbands; which is thechief crime of the female prisoners. There are no bad faces amongst them;and probably not one who has committed a premeditated crime. A moment ofjealousy during intoxication, violent passions without any curb, suddenlyaroused and as suddenly extinguished, have led to these frightful results. We were first shown into a large and tolerably clean apartment, where werethe female prisoners who are kept apart as being of a more _decent family_than the rest. Some were lying on the floor, others working--some were welldressed, others dirty and slovenly. Few looked sad; most appeared carelessand happy, and _none_ seemed ashamed. Amongst them were some of thehandsomest faces I have seen in Mexico. One good-looking common woman, witha most joyous and benevolent countenance, and lame, came up to salute theladies. I inquired what she had done. "Murdered her husband, and buried himunder the brick floor!" Shade of Lavater! It is some comfort to hear thattheir husbands were generally such brutes, they deserved little better!Amongst others confined here is the wife, or rather the widow, of agovernor of Mexico, who made away with her husband. We did not see her, andthey say she generally keeps out of the way when strangers come. One verypretty and coquettish little woman, with a most intellectual face, and verysuperior-looking, being in fact a relation of Count -----'s, is in jail onsuspicion of having poisoned her lover. A beautiful young creature, extremely like Mrs. -----, of Boston, was among the prisoners. I did nothear what her crime was. We were attended by a woman who has the title of_Presidenta_, and who, after some years of good conduct, has now the chargeof her fellow-prisoners--but she also murdered her husband! We wentupstairs, accompanied by various of these distinguished criminals, to theroom looking down upon the chapel, in which room the ladies give theminstruction in reading, and in the Christian doctrine. With the time whichthey devote to these charitable offices, together with their numerousdevotional exercises, and the care which their houses and families require, it cannot be said that the life of a Mexican Señora is an idle one; nor, insuch cases, can it be considered a useless one. 

We then descended to the lower regions, where, in a great, damp, vaultedgallery, hundreds of unfortunate women of the lowest class, were occupiedin _travaux forces_--not indeed of a very hard description. These wereemployed in baking tortillas for the prisoners. Dirty, ragged, andmiserable-looking creatures there were in these dismal vaults, which lookedlike purgatory, and smelt like--Heaven knows what! But, as I havefrequently had occasion to observe in Mexico, the sense of smell is adoubtful blessing. Another large hall near this, which the prisoners wereemployed in cleaning and sweeping, has at least fresh air, opening on oneside into a court, where poor little children, the saddest sight there, were running about--the children of the prisoners. 

Leaving the side of the building devoted to the women, we passed on toanother gallery, looking down upon an immense paved court with a fountain, where were several hundreds of male prisoners, unfortunately collectedtogether without any reference to the nature of their crime; the midnightmurderer with the purloiner of a pocket-handkerchief; the branded felonwith the man guilty of some political offence; the debtor with the falsecoiner; so that many a young and thoughtless individual whom a triflingfault, the result of ignorance or of unformed principles, has broughthither, must leave this place wholly contaminated and hardened by badexample and vicious conversation. Here there were indeed some ferocious, hardened-looking ruffians--but there were many mild, good-humoured faces;and I could see neither sadness nor a trace of shame on any countenance;indeed they all seemed much amused by seeing so many ladies. Some werestretched full-length on the ground, doing nothing; others were makingrolls for hats, of different coloured beads, such as they wear here, orlittle baskets for sale; whilst others were walking about alone, orconversing in groups. This is the first prison I ever visited, therefore Ican compare it with no other; but the system must be wrong which makes nodistinctions between different degrees of crime. These men are the same_forçats_ whom we daily see in chains, watering the Alameda or Paseo, ormending the streets. Several hundreds of prisoners escaped from theAcordada in the time of the _pronunciamiento_--probably the worst amongstthem--yet _half the city_ appears to be here now. We were shown the row ofcells for criminals whom it is necessary to keep in solitary confinement, on account of disorderly behaviour--also the apartments of the directors. 

In passing downstairs, we came upon a group of dirty-looking soldiers, busily engaged in playing at cards. The alcalde, who was showing us throughthe jail, dispersed them all in a great rage, which I suspected was partlyassumed for our edification. We then went into the chapel, which we hadseen from above, and which is handsome and well kept. In the sacristy is ahorrid and appropriate image of _the bad thief_. We were also shown a smallroom off the chapel, with a confessional, where the criminal condemned todie spends the three days preceding his execution with a padre chosen forthat purpose. What horrid confessions, what lamentations and despair thatsmall dark chamber must have witnessed! There is nothing in it but analtar, a crucifix, and a bench. I think the custom is a very humane one. 

We felt glad to leave this palace of crimes, and to return to the freshair. 

The following day we went to visit _San Hipólito_, the insane hospital formen, accompanied by the director, a fine old gentleman, who has been agreat deal abroad, and who looks like a French marquis of the _ancienregime_. I was astonished, on entering, at the sweet and solitary beauty ofthe large stone courts, with orange trees and pomegranates now in fullblossom, and the large fountains of beautifully clear water. There must besomething soothing in such a scene to the senses of these most unfortunateof God's creatures. They were sauntering about, quiet and for the most partsad; some stretched out under the trees, and others gazing on the fountain;all apparently very much under the control of the administrador, who wasformerly a monk, this _San Hipólito_ being a dissolved convent of thatorder. The system of giving occupation to the insane is not yet introducedhere. 

On entering, we saw rather a distinguished-looking, tall and well-dressedgentleman, whom we concluded to be a stranger who had come to see theestablishment, like ourselves. We were therefore somewhat startled when headvanced towards us with long strides, and in an authoritative voiceshouted out, "Do you know who I am? I am the Deliverer of Guatemala!" The_administrador_ told us he had just been taken up, was a Frenchman, and ina state of furious excitement. He continued making a tremendous noise, andthe other madmen seemed quite ashamed of him. One unhappy-looking creature, with a pale, melancholy face, and his arms stretched out above his head, was embracing a pillar, and when asked what he was doing, replied that hewas "making sugar. " We were led into the dining-hall, a long airyapartment, provided with benches and tables, and from thence into a mostsplendid kitchen, high, vaulted, and receiving air from above, a kitchenthat might have graced the castle of some feudal baron, and looked as if itwould most surely last as long as men shall eat and cooks endure. Monks ofSan Hipólito! how many a smoking dinner, what viands steaming and savourymust have issued from this noblest of kitchens to your refectory next door. 

The food for the present inmates, which two women were preparing, consistedof meat and vegetables, soup and sweet things; excellent meat, andwell-dressed _frijoles_. A poor little boy, imbecile, deaf and dumb, wasseated there cross-legged, in a sort of wooden box; a pretty child, with afine colour, but who has been in this state from his infancy. The womenseemed very kind to him, and he had a placid, contented expression of face;but took no notice of us when we spoke to him. Strange and unsolvableproblem, what ideas pass through the brain of that child!

When we returned to the dining-hall, the inmates of the asylum, to thenumber of ninety or a hundred, were all sitting at dinner, ranged quietlyon the benches, eating with wooden spoons out of wooden bowls. The poorhero of Guatemala was seated at the lower end of the table, tolerablytranquil. He started up on seeing us, and was beginning some furiousexplanations, but was prevented by his neighbour, who turned round with anair of great superiority, saying, "He's _mad!_" at which the other smiledwith an air of great contempt, and looking at us said, "He calls _me_ mad!"The man of the pillar was eyeing his soup, with his arms as before, extended above his head. The director desired him to eat his soup, uponwhich he slowly and reluctantly brought down one arm, and ate a fewspoonfuls. "How much sugar have you made to-day?" asked the director. "Fifty thousand kingdoms!" said the man. 

They showed us two men, of very good family, and one old gentleman who didnot come to dinner with the rest, but stood aloof, in the courtyard, withan air of great superiority. He had a cross upon his breast, and belongs toan old family. As we approached, he took off his hat, and spoke to us verypolitely; and then turning to the director, "_Y por fín_, " said he, "_Cuando saldré?_" "When shall I leave this place?" "Very soon, " said thedirector. "You may get your trunks ready. " He bowed and appeared satisfied, but continued standing in the same place, his arms folded, and with thesame wistful gaze as before. The director told us that the two great causesof madness here are love and drinking, (mental and physical intoxication);that the insanity caused by the former is almost invariably incurable, whereas the victims of the latter generally recover, as is natural. Thepoor old gentleman with the cross owes the overthrow of his mind to thedesertion of his mistress. We saw the chapel, where a padre says mass tothese poor creatures, "the Innocents, " as they are called here. They do notenter the chapel, for fear of their creating any disturbance, but kneeloutside, in front of the iron grating, and the administrador says it isastonishing how quiet and serious they appear during divine service. 

As we passed through the court, there was a man busily employed in hangingup various articles of little children's clothes, as if to dry them--littlefrocks and trousers; all the time speaking rapidly to himself, and stoppingevery two minutes to take an immense draught of water from the fountain. His dinner was brought out to him (for he could not be prevailed on to sitdown with the others), and he ate it in the same hurried way, dipping hisbread in the fountain, and talking all the time. The poor madman of the_sugar-kingdoms_ returned from dinner, and resumed his usual place at thepillar, standing with his arms above his head, and with the same melancholyand suffering expression of face. 

The director then showed us the room where the clothes are kept; the strawhats and coarse dresses, and the terrible straight waistcoats made of brownlinen, that look like coats with prodigiously long sleeves, and the_Botica_ where the medicines are kept, and the secretary's room where theypreserve the mournful records of entry and death--though often of exit. Allround the court are strong stone cells, where the furious are confined. Hetook us into an empty one, where a Franciscan friar had been lodged. He hadcontrived to pull down part of the wall, and to make a large hole into hisneighbour's cell adjoining. Fancy one madman seeing the head of anotherappear through a hole in his cell! The whole cell was covered with crossesof every description, drawn with a piece of coal. They had been obliged toremove him into another in the gallery above, where he had already begun anew work of destruction. I was afterwards told by the Padre P---n, theconfessor of condemned criminals, and who is of the same order as thisinsane monk, that this poor man had been a merchant, and had collectedtogether about forty thousand dollars, with which he was travelling toMexico, when he was attacked by robbers, who not only deprived him of allhe possessed, but gave him some severe wounds on the head. When somewhatrecovered, he renounced the world, and took his vows in the convent of SanFrancisco. Shortly after, he became subject to attacks of insanity, and atlast became so furious, that the superior was obliged to request an orderfor his admission to San Hipólito. 

The director then led us to the gallery above, where are more cells, andthe terrible "_Cuarto Negro_, " the Black Chamber; a dark, round cell, abouttwelve feet in circumference, with merely a slit in the wall for theadmission of air. The floor is thickly covered with straw, and the wallsare entirely covered with soft stuffed cushions. Here the most furiousmadman is confined on his arrival, and whether he throws himself on thefloor, or dashes his head against the wall, he can do himself no injury. Ina few days, the silence and the darkness soothe his fury, he grows calmer, and will eat the food that is thrust through the aperture in the wall. Fromthis he is removed to a common cell, with more light and air; but until hehas become tranquil, he is not admitted into the court amongst the others. 

From this horrible, though I suppose necessary den of suffering, we went tothe apartments of the administrador, which have a fine view of the city andthe volcanoes, and saw a virgin, beautifully carved in wood, and dressed inwhite satin robes, embroidered with small diamonds. On the ground was alittle dog, dying, having just fallen off from the azotea, an accidentwhich happens to dogs here not unfrequently. We then went up to the azotea, which looks into the garden of San Fernando and of our last house, and alsointo the barracks of the soldiers, who, as ----- observed, are moredangerous madmen than those who are confined. Some rolled up in their dirtyyellow cloaks, and others standing in their shirt-sleeves, and many withouteither; they were as dirty-looking a set of military heroes as one wouldwish to see. When we came downstairs again, and had gone through the court, and were passing the last cell, each of which is only lighted by anaperture in the thick stone wall, a pair of great black eyes glaringthrough, upon a level with mine, startled me infinitely. The eyes, however, glared upon vacancy. The face was thin and sallow, the beard long andmatted, and the cheeks sunken. What long years of suffering appeared tohave passed over that furrowed brow! I wish I had not seen it. . . . 

We afterwards went to the college of Bizcainos, that K---- might see it--mythird and last visit. What a palace! What courts and fountains! We wentover the whole building as before, from the azotea downwards, and from theporter's lodge upwards. Many of the scholars, who went out during therevolution, have not yet returned. K---- was in admiration at thegalleries, which look like long vaulted streets, and at the chapel, whichis certainly remarkably rich. . . . 

Having stopped in the carriage on the way home, at a shoemaker's, we saw_Santa Anna's leg_ lying on the counter, and observed it with due respect, as the prop of a hero. With this leg, which is fitted with a very handsomeboot, he reviews his troops next Sunday, putting his _best foot foremost;_for generally he merely wears an unadorned wooden leg. The shoemaker, aSpaniard, whom I can recommend to all customers as the most impertinentindividual I ever encountered, was arguing, in a blustering manner, with agentleman who had brought a message from the general, desiring somealteration in the boot: and wound up by muttering, as the messenger leftthe shop, "He shall either wear it as it is, or review the troops nextSunday without his leg!"[1]

[Footnote 1: Boston, November, 1842. --_Apropos des bottes, _ I copy thefollowing paragraph from an Havana newspaper:

"Mexico, 28th September. --Yesterday, was buried with pomp and solemnity inthe cemetery of Saint Paul, the foot which his Excellency, President SantaAnna, lost in the action of the 5th December, 1838. It was deposited in amonument erected for that purpose, Don Ignacio Sierra y Roso havingpronounced a funeral discourse appropriate to the subject. "]

We have ordered _mangas_ to wear in our intended journey, which is nownearly decided on--nothing tolerable to be had under seventy or eightydollars. They are made of strong cloth, with a hole in the middle forputting the head through, with black velvet capes, fringed either with silkor gold, and are universally lined with strong calico. They are warm andconvenient for riding in the country. I have seen some richly embroidered, which cost five hundred dollars. 

It is as I prophesied--now that we are about leaving Mexico, we fancy thatthere still remain objects of interest which we have not seen. We have paida visit, probably a last visit, to Our Lady of Guadalupe, and certainlynever examined her cathedral with so much attention, or lingered so longbefore each painting and shrine, or listened with so much interest to theparticulars of its erection, which were given us by Señor -----, whoseauthority in these matters is unimpeachable. 

It appears that the present sacristy of the parochial church dates back to1575, and was then a small chapel, where the miraculous image was kept, andwhere it remained until the beginning of the next century, when a newchurch was built, to which the image was solemnly transported. Even whenenclosed in the first small sanctuary, its fame must have been great, for, by orders of the archbishop, six doweries of three hundred dollars each, tobe given to six orphans on their marriage, were annually drawn from thealms offered at her shrine. But in 1629 Mexico suffered the terribleinundation which destroyed so large a part of the city, and the excellentarchbishop, D. Francisco Manzo, while devoting his time and fortune toassist the sufferers, also gave orders that the Virgin of Guadalupe shouldbe brought into Mexico, and placed in the cathedral there, then of verydifferent dimensions from the present noble building, occupying, it issaid, the space which is now covered by the principal sacristy. When thewaters retired, and the Virgin was restored to her own sanctuary, her fameincreased to a prodigious extent. Copies of the Divine Image were somultiplied, that there is probably not an Indian hut throughout the wholecountry where one does not exist. Oblations and alms increased a thousandfold; a silver throne, weighing upwards of three hundred and fifty marks, and beautifully wrought, chiefly at the expense of the viceroy, Count ofSalvatierra, was presented to her sanctuary, together with a glass case(for the image), considered at that time a wonder of art. At the end of thecentury a new temple, the present sanctuary, was begun; the second churchwas thrown down, but not until a provisional building (the actual parishchurch) was erected to receive the image. The new temple was concluded in1709, and is said to have cost from six to eight hundred thousand dollars, collected from _alms alone_, which were solicited in person by theviceregal archbishop, D. Juan de Ortega y Montanez. Two private individualsin Mexico gave, the one thirty, the other fifty thousand dollars, towardsits erection. 

The interior is of the Doric order, and has three aisles, divided by eightpillars, upon which with the walls are placed eighteen arches, the centreone forming the dome of the edifice. It runs from north to south, has threegreat gates, one fronting Mexico, and two others at the sides. Its lengthmay be two hundred and fifty feet, and its width about one hundred andthirty. In the four external angles of the church are four lofty towers, inthe midst of which rises the dome. Three altars were at first erected, andin the middle one, destined for the image, was a sumptuous tabernacle ofsilver gilt, in which were more than three thousand two hundred marks ofsilver, and which cost nearly eighty thousand dollars. In the centre ofthis was a piece of gold, weighing four thousand and fifty _castellanos_(an old Spanish coin, the fiftieth part of a mark of gold), and here theimage was placed, the linen on which it is painted guarded by a silverplate of great value. The rest of the temple had riches corresponding. Thecandlesticks, vases, railing, etc. , contain nearly fourteen thousand marksof silver, without counting the numerous holy vessels, cups and chalicesadorned with jewels. One golden lamp weighed upwards of two thousand twohundred _castellanos_--another seven hundred and fifty silver marks. 

In 1802 some part of the walls and arches began to give way--and it wasnecessary to repair them. But first, under the direction of the celebratedsculptor Tolsa, a new altar was erected for the image. His first care wasto collect the most beautiful marbles of the country for this purpose--theblack he brought from Puebla, and the white, gray and rose-coloured fromthe quarries of San José Vizarron. He also began to work at the bronzeornaments, but from the immense sums of money necessary to its execution, the work was delayed for nearly twenty years. Then, in 1826, it wasrecommenced with fresh vigour. The image was removed meanwhile to theneighbouring convent of the Capuchinas, and the same year the altar wasconcluded, and the Virgin brought back in solemn procession, in the midstof an innumerable multitude. This great altar, which cost from three tofour hundred thousand dollars, is a concave hexagonal, in the midst ofwhich rise two white marble pillars, and on each side two columns ofrose-coloured marble, of the composite order, which support the arch. Between these are two pedestals, on which are the images of San Joaquin andSanta Anna, and two niches, containing San José and St. John the Baptist. Above the cornices are three other pedestals, supporting the three Saints, Michael, Gabriel, and Raphael; and above St. Michael, in the midst ofcherubim and seraphim, is a representation of the Eternal Father. The spacebetween the upper part of the altar and the roof, is covered with a paintedcrimson curtain, held by saints and angels. The tabernacle in the centre ofthe altar, is of rose-coloured marble, in which the image is deposited, andall the ornaments of the altar are of gilt bronze and zinc. 

Besides the collegiate and the parish church, there are at Guadalupe thechurch of the Capuchin Nuns, and the churches of the Hill and the Well; allin such close conjunction, that the whole village or city, as it callsitself, seems altogether some religious establishment or confraternity, belonging to these temples and churches, united in the worship of theVirgin, and consequent upon the "Miraculous Apparition" manifested to thechosen Indian, Juan Diego. 

I regret not having known till lately, that there exists in Mexico aconvent of _Indian Nuns:_ and that each nun, when she takes the veil, wearsa very superb Indian dress--the costume formerly worn by the _cacicas_, orladies of highest rank. 

I went some days ago with the Señorita F---a to visit a house for insanewomen, in the _Calle de Canoa_, built in 1698, by the rich congregation of_el Salvador_. The institution is now in great want of funds; and is by nomeans to be compared with the establishment of San Hipólito. The directressseems a good kind-hearted woman, who devoted herself to doing her duty, andwho is very gentle to her patients; using no means but those of kindnessand steadiness to subdue their violence. But what a life of fear andsuffering such a situation must be! The inmates look poor and miserable, generally speaking, and it is difficult to shake off the melancholyimpression which they produce on the mind. We were particularly struck bythe sight of one unfortunate woman of the better class, who, with her longhair all dishevelled, and eyes sparkling with a wild light, stood at theopen window of her cell, where for the present they are obliged to confineher, and who poured forth the most piteous lamentations, and adjured everyone who passed, in the most pathetic terms, to restore her husband andchildren to her. One girl was singing cheerfully--one or two women weresewing, but most of them were sitting crouched on the floor, with a look ofmelancholy vacancy. The poor are admitted gratis, and the richer classespay a moderate sum for their board. . . . 

To turn to a very different theme. We continue to go to the opera, certainly the most agreeable amusement in Mexico, and generally to the----- Minister's box, in the centre. Last evening, _Belisario_ wasrepeated, but with less splendour than on its representation in honour ofSanta Anna. 

We expect to leave this on the sixteenth, going in a diligence as far asToluca, where a Mexican officer, Colonel Y----, has kindly promised to meetus with mules and horses. M. Le Comte de B---- and Mr. W----, secretariesof the French and English Legations, have made arrangements foraccompanying us as far as Valadolid; with which agreeable travellingcompanions we may reasonably expect a pleasant journey. 

Last Sunday was the festival of All Saints; on the evening of which day, wewalked out under the _portales_, with M. And Madame de -----, ----- Minister and his wife, to look at the illumination, and at thenumerous booths filled with _sugar skulls_, etc. ; temptingly ranged ingrinning rows, to the great edification of the children. In general thereare crowds of well-dressed people on the occasion of this fête, but theevening was cold and disagreeable, and though there were a number ofladies, they were enveloped in shawls, and dispersed early. The old womenat their booths, with their cracked voices, kept up the constant cry of"Skulls, _niñas_, skulls!"--but there were also animals done in sugar, ofevery species, enough to form specimens for a Noah's ark. 

14th. -We leave this the day after to-morrow, and shall write from our firsthalting-place; and as on our return we shall do little more than passthrough Mexico, we are _almost_ taking leave of all our friends. Were I totell you all the kindness and hospitality, and cordial offers of servicethat we receive, and the manner in which our rooms (albeit the rooms of aninn) are filled from morning till night, it would seem an exaggeration. Oneacquaintance we have made lately, whom we like so much, that we have beenvociferously abusing the system of _faire part_ in this city, since, owingto the mistake of a servant, we have until now been deprived of thepleasure of knowing her. The mistake is rectified at the eleventh hour. Thelady is the Señora de G---z P---a, one of the most accomplished andwell-informed women in Mexico; and though our friendship has been short, Itrust it may be enduring. 

Two evenings since, we went with the Señora de C---s to an amateur concert;and I question whether in any capital of Europe, so many good amateurvoices could be collected. I do not speak of the science or cultivation, though the hostess, the Señora A----, has a perfect method. But yesterdaywe spent a most agreeable evening in a delightful family reunion, at thehouse of Señor N---i del B---o. It was strictly limited to the familyrelations, and was, I believe, his _jour de fête_. If all Mexican societyresembled this, we should have too much regret in leaving it. The girlshandsome, well educated, and simple in their manners and tastes--theCountess a model of virtue and dignity. Then so much true affection andlove of home amongst them all! So much wealth and yet good taste andperfect simplicity visible in all that surrounds them! Mexico is not _lost_as long as such families exist, and though they mingle little in society, the influence of their virtues and charities is widely felt. 

This morning C---n had an audience of the new president. He also paid avisit to General Bustamante, who is still at Guadalupe, and preparing forhis departure. He will probably sail in the Jason, the man-of-war whichbrought us to Vera Cruz, and it is probable that we shall leave therepublic at the same period. The Dowager Marquesa de Vivanco, who inconsequence of ill health has not left her house for months, was among ourvisitors this morning. 

To-day Count C---a dined here, and brought for our inspection the splendidsword presented by Congress to General Valencia, with its hilt ofbrilliants and opals; a beautiful piece of workmanship, which does creditto the Mexican artificers. He was particularly brilliant and eloquent inhis conversation to-day--whether his theories are right or wrong, they arecertainly _entrainant_. 

Our next letters will probably be dated from Toluca

LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH

Leave Mexico--Diligence--Indian Padre--Brandy-drinking Female--BadRoads--Beautiful View--Escort--Good Breakfast--Crosses--Robber'sHead--Select Party--Lerma--Valley of Toluca--Hacienda--Toluca--Count deB---- and Mr. W------ The Comandante--Gay Supper--Colonel Y------Day atToluca--Journey to La Gabia--Heat and Hunger--Pleasant Quarters--PrincelyEstate--El Pilar--A Zorillo--A Wolf--Long Journey--Tortillas--Count deB------State of Michoacán--Forest Scenery--_Trojes of Angangueo_--Comfort. 

TOLUCA, 16th. 

In vain would be a description with the hopes of bringing them before you, of our last few days in Mexico!--of the confusion, the bustle, the visits, the paying of bills, the packing of trunks, the sending off of heavyluggage to Vera Cruz, and extracting the necessary articles for ourjourney; especially yesterday, when we were surrounded by visitors and_cargadores_, from half-past seven in the morning till half-past eleven atnight. Our very last visitors were the families of C---a and E---n. The newpresident, _on dit_, is turning his sword into a ploughshare. Preferring acountry to a city life, nearly every Sunday he names the house in which hedesires to be _fêted_ the following week--now at the villa ofSeñor ----- at Tacubaya--now at the hacienda of Señor ----- at San Agustin. As yet the diplomatic corps do not attend these assemblies, not having beenofficially received; but we hear that there is singing and dancing, andother amusements, and that his excellency is extremely amiable and_galant_. 

By six o'clock this morning several of our friends were assembled toaccompany us to the diligence (Señors C---o, M---e, R---s, A---e, etc. ), which, unfortunately, we had not been able to secure for ourselves; for atthis moment, the whole world is in motion, going to attend the great annualfair of San Juan de los Lagos; which begins on the fifth of December, andto which Toluca is the direct road. Fortunately, the diligence had brokendown the preceding evening, and it was necessary to repair it; otherwise weshould have left behind various important articles, for in the confusion ofour departure, every one had left some requisite item at the hotel;--C---nhis gun; K---- her bag; I _everything_--and more especially the book withwhich I intended to beguile the weary hours between Mexico and Toluca. Ourservant-boy ran--Señor R---s mounted his horse, and most good-naturedlygalloped between the diligence office and the hotel, until, little bylittle, all the missing articles were restored. We climbed into the coach, which was so crowded that we could but just turn our heads to groan anadieu to our friends. The coach rattled off through the streets, dashedthrough the Alameda, and gradually we began to shake down, and, by a littlearrangement of cloaks and sarapes, to be less crowded. A _padre_ with avery Indian complexion sat between K---- and me, and a horrible, long, lean, bird-like female, with immense red goggle-eyes, coal-black teeth, fingers like claws, a great goitre, and drinking brandy at intervals, satopposite to us. There were also various men buried in their sarapes. Satisfied with a cursory inspection of our companions, I addressed myselfto _Blackwood's Magazine_, but the road which leads towards the Desierto, and which we before passed on horseback, is dreadful, and the mules couldscarcely drag the loaded coach up the steep hills. We were thrown intoruts, horribly jolted, and sometimes obliged to get out, which would nothave been disagreeable but for the necessity of getting in again. The dayand the country were beautiful, but impossible to enjoy either in a shutcoach. We were rather thankful when the wheels, sticking in a deep rut, wewere forced to descend, and walk forwards for some time. We had before seenthe view from these heights, but the effect never was more striking than atthis moment. The old city with her towers, lakes, and volcanoes, lay bathedin the bright sunshine. Not a cloud was in the sky--not an exhalation rosefrom the lake--not a shadow was on the mountains. All was bright andglittering, and flooded in the morning light; while in contrast rose to theleft the dark, pine-covered crags, behind which the Desierto lies. 

At Santa Fe we changed horses, and found there an escort which had beenordered for us by General Tornel; a necessary precaution in theserobber-haunted roads. We stopped to breakfast at _Quajimalpa_, where theinn is kept by a Frenchman, who is said to be making a large fortune, whichhe deserves for the good breakfast he had prepared for us by orders of theCount de B---- and Mr. W----, who had preceded us early in the morning onhorseback; (enviable fate!). We had white fish from the river of Lerma, which crosses the plains of Toluca, fresh and well dressed, and withoutthat taste of _mud_ which those from the Mexican Laguna occasionally have;also hot cutlets, potatoes, coffee, etc. 

After leaving this inn, situated in a country formed of heaps of lava andvolcanic rocks, the landscape becomes more beautiful and wooded. It is, however, dangerous, on account of the shelter which the wooded mountainsafford to the knights of the road, and to whose predilection for these wildsolitudes, the number of crosses bore witness. In a woody defile there is asmall clear space called "_Las Cruces_, " where several wooden crosses pointout the site of the famous battle between the curate Hidalgo and theSpanish General Truxillo. An object really in keeping with the wildscenery, was the head of the celebrated robber _MalDoñado_, nailed to thepine-tree beneath which he committed his last murder. It is now quiteblack, and grins there, a warning to his comrades and an encouragement totravellers. From the age of ten to that of fifty, he followed thehonourable profession of free-trader, when he expiated his crimes. Thepadre who was in the coach with us, told us that he heard his lastconfession. That grinning skull was once the head of a man, and an ugly onetoo, they say; but stranger still it is to think, that that man was once ababy, and sat on his mother's knee, and that his mother may have beenpleased to see him cut his _first tooth_. If she could but see his teethnow! Under this very head, and as if to show their contempt for law andjustice, the robbers lately eased some travellers of their luggage. Thosewho were robbed, however, were false coiners, rather a common class inToluca, and two of these ingenious gentlemen were in the coach with us (aswe afterwards learnt), and were returning to that city. These, with thebrandy-drinking female, composed our select little party!

The scenery without was decidedly preferable to that within, and theleathern sides of the vehicle being rolled up, we had a tolerable view. What hills covered with noble pines! What beautiful pasture-fields, dottedwith clumps of trees, that looked as if disposed for effect, as in anEnglish park!--firs, oaks, cedars, and elms. Arrived at the town or villageof Lerma, famous for its manufacture of spurs, and standing in a marshycountry at the entrance of the valley of Toluca, all danger of the robbersis passed, and with the danger, much of the beauty of the scenery. But webreathed more freely on another account, for here she of the goggle-eyesand goitre, descended with her brandy-bottle, relieving us from theoppressive influence of the sort of _day_-mare, if there be such a thing, which her presence had been to us. 

The valley of Toluca was now before us, its volcano towering in thedistance. The plains around looked cold and dreary, with pools oftransparent water, and swamps filled with various species of water-fowl. The hacienda of San Nicolas, the property of Señor Mier y Teran, aSpaniard, was the only object that we saw worthy of notice, before wereached Toluca. This hacienda, formerly the property of the Carmelitemonks, is a valuable estate. Not a tree is to be seen here, or in thevalley, a great extent of which is included in it; but it is surrounded byvast fields of maguey and maize; it is traversed by a fine river, and isone of the most profitable estates in the country. The labourers here arein general the Ottomie Indians, a poor and degraded tribe. Here wedismissed our escort, which had been changed every six leagues, and enteredToluca about four o'clock, passing the _Garrita_ without the troublesomeoperation of searching, to which travellers in general are subject. Wefound tolerable rooms in an inn; at least there were two or three woodenchairs in each, and a deal table in one; and Mr. W---- and the Count deB---- looking out for us. Colonel Y---- had not yet made his appearance. 

Toluca, a large and important city, lies at the foot of the mountain of SanMiguel de _Tutucuitlalpico_; and is an old, quiet, good-looking, respectable-seeming place, about as sad and solitary as Puebla. Thestreets, the square, and the churches are clean and handsome. To the southof the city lie extensive plains covered with rich crops; and about tenmiles in the same direction is the volcano. We walked out in the afternoonto the Alameda, passing under the _portales_; handsomer and cleaner thanthose of Mexico; and sat down on a stone bench beside a fountain, aposition which commanded a beautiful view of the distant hills and of thevolcano, behind which the sun was setting in a sea of liquid flame, makingit look like a great pearl lying amongst melted rubies. The Alameda has notbeen much ornamented, and is quite untenanted; but walks are cut throughthe grass, and they were making hay. Everything looked quiet andconvent-like, and a fine fresh air passed over the new-mown grass, inclining to cold, but pleasant. The volcano is scooped out into a naturalbasin, containing, in the very midst of its fiery furnace, two lakes of thepurest, coldest and most transparent water. It is said that the view fromits summit, the ascent to which is very fatiguing, but has beenaccomplished, is beautiful and extensive. On the largest lake travellershave embarked in a canoe, but I believe it has never been crossed, onaccount of the vulgar prejudice that it is unfathomable, and has awhirlpool in the centre. The volcano is about fifteen thousand feet abovethe level of the sea, and nine thousand above Toluca. It is not so grand asPopocatepetl, but a _respectable_ volcano for a country town--_muydecente_(very decent), as a man said in talking of the pyramids that adornthe wonderful cavern of Cucuhuamilpa. 

We ordered supper at the inn, and were joined by the Comandante of Toluca, Don M---- A----, the officer who came out to meet us when we arrived inMexico. I regret to state that such a distinguished party should have satdown, six in number, to fowl and frijoles, with only three knives and twoforks between them. The provident travellers had, however, brought goodwine; and if our supper was not very elegant, it was at least very gay. Colonel Y---- arrived about ten o'clock; but it is agreed that the animalsrequire one day's rest, and we shall consequently spend to-morrow atToluca. 

17th. --We have spent this day in arranging our route, in which we areguided not by the most direct, but the most agreeable; in walking throughthe city, which, in the time of federalism, was the capital of the state, in climbing some of the steep roads cut through the hills, at whose base itlies; and in admiring the churches and convents, and broad, well-pavedstreets with their handsome houses, painted white and red. It is decidedthat the first night of our pilgrimage, we shall request hospitality at thehacienda of the ex-Minister Hechavarria--_La Gabia_, which is about tenleagues of very bad road from Toluca--which is sixteen from Mexico. Allthese important arrangements being made, and a sketch of our journey tracedout, we are about retiring to rest, in the agreeable prospect of notentering any four or two wheeled vehicle, be it a cart, carriage, coach, ordiligence, till we return here. 

LA GABIA, 19th. 

To get _under weigh_ the first morning was a work of some difficulty. Mulesto be loaded, horses to be fitted with saddles; and one mule lame, andanother to be procured, and the trunks found to be too heavy, and so on. Werose at five, dressed by candlelight, took chocolate, put on our mangas, and then planted ourselves in the passage looking down upon the _patio_, towatch the proceedings and preparations. Colonel A---- arrived at seven witha trooper, to accompany us part of the way; and we set off while it wascool, without waiting for the rest of the party. Toluca looked silent anddignified as we passed through the streets--with its old convents and darkhills. The road, after leaving the city, was stony and mountainous; andhaving reached a small _rancho_ with an old oratorio beside it, we haltedto wait for our travelling companions. Colonel A---- amused us with anaccount of his warfare against the Comanches, in which service he had beenterribly wounded. Singular contrast between these ferocious barbarians andthe mild Indians of the interior! He considers them an exceedinglyhandsome, fine-looking race; whose resources, both for war and trade, areso great, that were it not for their natural indolence, the difficulties ofchecking their aggression would be formidable indeed. Colonel A---- beingobliged to return to Toluca, left us in charge of his trooper, and wewaited at the rancho for about half an hour, when our party appeared with along train of mules and _mozos_; the gentlemen dressed Mexican fashion aswell as their men; the best dress in the world for a long equestrianjourney. Colonel Y---- had staid behind to procure another mule, and therebeing two roads, we, as generally happens in these cases, chose the worst;which led us for leagues over a hilly country, unenlivened by tree, shrub, bush, or flower. The sun was already high, and the day intensely hot. Wepassed an occasional poor hut--a chance Indian passed us--showed his whiteteeth, and, in spite of the load on his back, contrived to draw his hat offhis matted locks, and give us a mild good morrow--but for the rest, fromDan to Beersheba, from Toluca to La Gabia, all was barren. By twelveo'clock we might have fancied ourselves passing over the burning plains ofMesopotamia, notwithstanding an occasional cold breeze which swept acrossus for a moment, serving only to make us feel the heat with greater force. Then barranca followed barranca. The horses climbed up one crag, and sliddown another. By two o'clock we were all starving with hunger, but nothingwas to be had. Even Nebuchadnezzar would have found himself at a nonplus. The Count de B---- contrived to buy some graniditas and parched corn froman Indian, which kept us quiet for a little while; and we tried to consoleourselves by listening to our arrieros, who struck up some wild songs inchorus, as they drove the wearied mules up the burning hills. Every Indianthat we met assured us that La Gabia was "_cerquita_, " quite near--"_detraslomita_, " behind the little hill; and every little hill that we passedpresented to our view another little hill, but no signs of themuch-wished-for dwelling. A more barren, treeless, and uninterestingcountry than this road (on which we have unanimously revenged our-selves bygiving it the name of "the road of the three hundred barrancas") led usthrough, I never beheld. However, "it's a long lane that has no turning, "as we say in Scotland; and between three and four, La Gabia was actually insight; a long, low building, whose entrance appeared to us the very gatesof Eden. We were all, but especially me, who had ridden with my veil up, from a curiosity to see where my horse was going, burnt to the colour ofPawnee Indians. 

We were most cordially welcomed by Señor Hechavarria and hisbrothers-in-law, and soon refreshed by rest and an excellent dinner. Fortunately K---- and I had no mirrors; but each gave such a flatteringdescription of the other's countenance, that it was quite graphic. 

This beautiful hacienda, which formerly belonged to the Count de Regla, whose possessions must have been royal, is thirty leagues in length andseventeen in width--containing in this great space the productions of everyclimate, from the fir-clad mountains on a level with the volcano of Toluca, to the fertile plains which produce corn and maize; and lower down, tofields of sugar-cane and other productions of the tropics. 

We retired to rest betimes, and early this morning rode out with thesegentlemen, about five leagues through the hacienda. The morning was brightand exhilarating, and our animals being tired, we had fresh, strong littlehorses belonging to their stud, which carried us delightfully. We rodethrough beautiful pine-woods and beside running water, contrastingagreeably with our yesterday's journey; and were accompanied by threehandsome little boys, children of the family, the finest and manliestlittle fellows I ever saw, who, dressed in a complete Mexican costume, likethree miniature rancheros, rode boldly and fearlessly over everything. There was a great deal of firing at crows and at the wild duck on abeautiful little lake, but I did not observe that any one was burdened withtoo much game. We got off our horses to climb through the wooded hills andravines, and passed some hours lying under the pine-trees, listening to thegurgling of the little brook, whose bright waters make music in thesolitude; and, like the soldiers at the _pronunciamiento_, but with sureraim, pelting each other from behind the parapets of the tall trees, withfir tops. About ten o'clock we returned to breakfast; and ColonelY---- having arrived, we are now preparing to continue our journey thisafternoon. 

ANGANGUBO, 20th. 

We left La Gabia at four o'clock, accompanied by our hospitable hosts forsome leagues, all their own princely property, through greatpasture-fields, woods of fir and oak, hills clothed with trees, and fineclear streams. We also passed a valuable stone-quarry; and were shown ahill belonging to the Indians, presented to them by a former proprietor. Weformed a long train, and I pitied the mistress of _El Pilar_, our nexthalting-place, upon whom such a regiment was about to be unexpectedlyquartered. There were C---n, K----, and I, and a servant; the Count deB---- and his servant; Mr. W---- and his servant; Colonel Y---- and hismen; mules, arrieros, spare mules, and led horses; and all the _mozos_armed, forming altogether a formidable gang. We took leave of theHechavarria family when it was already growing dusk, and when the moon hadrisen found we had taken a great round; so that it was late at night whenwe arrived at _El Pilar_, a small hacienda, situated in a wild-looking, solitary part of the country. A servant had been sent forward to inform thelady of the establishment of our approach, and we were most kindlyreceived. The house is clean and pretty, and, tired as we were, the _sala_, boasting of an old piano, tempted us to try a waltz while they werepreparing supper. The man who waited at table, before he removed thethings, popped down upon his knees, and recited a long prayer aloud. Thegentlemen had one apartment prepared for them--we another, in which, nay, even in the large four-posted and well-curtained bed allotted to us, MadameYturbide had slept when on her way to Mexico before her coronation. TheSeñora M---- also showed us her picture, and spoke of her and the emperorwith great enthusiasm. 

This morning we rose by candlelight, at five o'clock, with the prospect ofa long ride, having to reach the _Trojes of Angangueo_, a mining district(_trojes_ literally mean granaries), fourteen leagues from El Pilar. Themorning was cold and raw, with a dense fog covering the plains, so that wecould scarcely see each other's faces, and found our _mangas_ particularlyagreeable. We were riding quickly across these ugly marshy wastes, when acurious animal crossed our path, a _zorillo_, or _epatl_, as the Indianscall it, and which Bouffon mentions under the generic name of _mouffêtes_. It looks like a brown and white fox, with an enormous tail, which it holdsup like a great feather in the air. It is known not only for the beauty ofits skin, but for the horrible and pestilential odour with which it defendsitself when attacked, and which poisons the air for miles around. Notwithstanding the warnings of the _mozos_ as to its peculiar mode ofdefence, the gentlemen pursued it with guns and pistols, on horseback andon foot, but fired in vain. The beast seemed bullet-proof; turning, doubling, winding, crossing pools, hiding itself, stopping for a moment asif it were killed, and then trotting off again with its feathery tail muchhigher than its head; so that it seemed to be running backwards. The fogfavoured it very much. It was certainly wounded in the paw, and as itstopped and seemed to hesitate, the sportsmen thought they had caught him;but a minute afterwards away went the waving tail amongst the pools and themarshy grass, the zorillo, no doubt, accompanying it, though we could notsee him, and fortunately without resorting to any offensive or defensivemeasures. While they were chasing the zorillo, and we had rode a little wayoff, that we might not be accidentally shot in the fog, an immense wolfcame looming by in the mist, with its stealthy gallop, close to our horses, causing us to shout for the sportsmen; but our numbers frightened it;besides which, it had but just breakfasted on a mule belonging to thehacienda, as we were told by the son of the proprietress of El Pilar, who, hearing all this distant firing, had ridden out to inquire into its cause, supposing that we might have lost our way in the fog, and were firingsignals of distress. 

We continued our journey across these plains for about three leagues, whenthe sun rose and scattered the mist; and after crossing a river, we enteredthe woods and rode between the shadows of the trees, through lovely forestscenery, interspersed with dells and plains and sparkling rivulets. But bythe time we left these woods, and made our way up amongst the hills, thesun was riding high in the heavens, the pastures and green treesdisappeared, and, though the country was still fertile and the soil rich, its beauties lay hid in the valleys below. K----'s horse received a sort of_coup de soleil_, shivered and trembled, and would not go on; so shemounted another, and one of the _mozos_ led hers slowly by a different roadto a village, to be watered. About one o'clock we began to wish forbreakfast, but the mules which carried the provisions had taken a differentpath, and were not in sight; so that, arriving at an Indian hut close by arunning stream, we were unanimous in dismounting, and at least procuringsome _tortillas_ from the inmates. At the same time, the Countde ----- very philanthropically hired an old discoloured-looking horse, which was grazing peaceably outside the hut, and mounting the astonishedquadruped, who had never, in his wildest dreams, calculated upon having sofine a chevalier on his back, galloped off in search of more solid food, while we set the Indian women to baking _tortillas_. He returned in abouthalf an hour, with some bones of boiled mutton, tied up in a handkerchief!some salt, and thick tortillas, called _gorditas_, and was received withimmense applause. Everything vanished in an incredibly short space of time, and we resumed our journey with renewed vigour. Towards the afternoon weentered the state of Michoacán, by a road (destined to be a highway) tracedthrough great pine-forests, after stopping once more to rest at _LasMillas_, a few huts, or rather wooden cages, at the outskirts of the wood. Nothing can be more beautiful or romantic than this road, ascending throughthese noble forests, whose lofty oaks and gigantic pines clothe themountains to their highest summits; sometimes so high, that, as we lookupwards, the trees seem diminished to shrubs and bushes; the sun dartinghis warm, golden light between the dark-green extended branches of thesedistant forest pyramids, so that they seem to be basking in the very focusof his rays. Untrodden and virgin as these forests appear, an occasionalcross, with its withered garland, gives token of life, and also of death;and green and lonely is the grave which the traveller has found among theseAlpine solitudes, under the shadows of the dark pine, on a bed of fragrantwild-flowers, fanned by the pure air from the mountain-tops. The flowerswhich grow under the shade of the trees are beautiful and gay in theircolours. Everywhere there are blue lupins, marigolds, dahlias, andinnumerable blossoms with Indian names. Sometimes we dismounted and walkedup the steepest parts, to rest our horses and ourselves; but, as it wasimpossible to go fast on these stony paths, it became entirely dark beforeAngangueo was in sight; and the road, which, for a great part of the way, is remarkably good, now led us down a perpendicular descent amongst thetrees, covered with rocks and stones, so that the horses stumbled, and one, which afterwards proved to be blind of one eye, and not to see very clearlywith the other, fell and threw his rider, who was not hurt. It was neareight o'clock (and we had been on horseback since six in the morning), when, after crossing a shallow stream, we saw the fires of the furnaces ofAngangueo, a mining village, at the foot of some wild hills. We rode pastthe huts, where the blazing fires were shining on the swarthy faces of theworkmen, the road skirting the valley, till we reached the house of DonCarlos Heimbürger, a Polish gentleman at the head of the German miningestablishment. This house, the only one of any consequence at Angangueo, isextremely pretty, with a piazza in front, looking down upon the valley, which at night seems like the dwelling of the Cyclops, and within a verypicture of comfort. We were welcomed by the master of the house, and byMadame B---n, a pretty and accomplished German lady, the wife of aphysician who resides there. We had already known her in Mexico, and wereglad to renew our acquaintance in this outlandish spot. One must havetravelled fourteen leagues, from morning till night, to know howcomfortable her little drawing-room appeared, with its well-cushioned redsofas, bright lights, and vases of flowers, as we came in from the cold anddarkness, and how pretty and _extra_-civilized she looked in her blacksatin gown, not to mention the excellent dinner and the large fires, forthey have chimneys in this part of the world. In a nice little bedroom, with a cheerful fire, the second time I have seen one in two years, Iindite these particulars, and shall continue from our next place of rest. 

LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH

Leave _Trojes_--Beautiful Territory--Tarrascan Indians--Taximaroa--Distressed Condition--An Improvement--Cold Morning--Querendaro--Fine Breedof Horses--San Bartolo--Produce--Country Proprietors--_Colear_--Ride toMorelia--Wild Ducks--Sunset--Cathedral Bell--Cuincho--Curates Morelos, Mantamoros and Hidalgo--Warm Baths--Handsome Girls--Starving Travellers--Lost Mules--Lancers--Night on a Heap of Straw--Mules Found--Tzintzontzan--King Calsonsi--Pascuaro--Kind Reception--Bishop--Robbers--Curu--Night in aBarn--Mountain--Uruapa--Enchanting Scenery--Pleasant Family--Jorullo. 

VALLADOLID, 25th. 

As the house was so agreeable, and our next day's journey short, we couldnot prevail upon ourselves to leave the _Trojes_ before nine o'clock; andeven then, with the hopes of spending some time there on our return to seethe mining establishment; the mills for grinding ore, the horizontalwater-wheels, etc. , etc. ; and still more, the beautiful scenery in theneighbourhood. 

That you may understand our line of march, take a map of Mexico, and youwill see that Michoacán, one of the most beautiful and fertile territoriesin the world, is bounded on the north by the river Lerma, afterwards knownby the name of Rio Grande; also by the department of Guanajuato; to theeast and north-east it bounds that of Mexico, and to the west, that ofGuadalajara. It lies on the western slope of the Great Cordillera ofAnahuac. Hills, woods, and beautiful valleys diversify its surface; itspasture-grounds are watered by numerous streams, that rare advantage underthe torrid zone, and the climate is cool and healthy. The Indians of thisdepartment are the Terascos--the Ottomi and the Chichimeca Indians. Thefirst are the most civilized of the tribes, and their language the mostharmonious. We are now travelling in a north-westerly direction, towardsthe capital of the state, Valladolid, or Morelia, as it has been calledsince the independence, in honour of the curate Morelos, its greatsupporter. 

We had a pleasant ride of nine leagues through an open pasture-country, meeting with nothing very remarkable on our journey, but an Indian womanseated on the ground, her Indian husband standing beside her. Both hadprobably been refreshing themselves with pulque--perhaps even with itshomoeopathic extract _mezcal_; but the Indian was sober and sad, and stoodwith his arms folded, and the most patient and pitying face, while hiswife, quite overcome with the strength of the potation, and unable to goany further, looked up at him with the most imploring air, sayingrepeatedly--"_Mátame, Miguel, mátame_" (Kill me, Miguel--kill me)--apparently considering herself quite unfit to live. 

About five o'clock we came in sight of the pretty village and old church of_Taximaroa_; and riding up to the _mesón_, or inn, found two empty darkrooms with mud floors--without windows, in fact without anything but theirfour walls--neither bench, chair, nor table. Although we travel with ourown beds, this looked rather uninviting, especially after the pleasantquarters we had just left; and we turned our eyes wistfully towards apretty small house upon a hill, with a painted portico, thinking howagreeably situated we should be there! Colonel Y---- thereupon rode up thehill, and presenting himself to the owner of this house, described ourforlorn prospects, and he kindly consented to permit us all to sup there, and moreover to receive the ladies for the night. For the gentlemen he hadno room, having but one spare apartment, as one of his family was a greatinvalid, and could not be moved. Accordingly, our travelling luggage wascarried up the hill; the horses and mules and servants were quartered inthe village, the gentlemen found lodging for themselves in a bachelor'shouse, and we found ourselves in very agreeable quarters, on a prettypiazza, with an extensive view, and one large room, containing a table andsome benches, at our service. Meanwhile, M. De B---- rushed through thevillage, finding eggs and hens and tortillas, and then returning, he andMr. W---- produced the travelling stores of beef and tongue, and set aboutmaking mustard and drawing bottles of wine, to the great wonderment andedification of the honest proprietor. Even a clean tablecloth was produced;a piece of furniture which he had probably never seen before, and now eyedwistfully, doubtless taking it for a _sheet_. We had a most amusing supper, some performing dexterously with penknives, and others using tortillas asforks. We won the heart of the _bourgeois_ by sending a cup of tea to hisinvalid, and inviting him to partake of another, which he seemed toconsider a rare and medicinal beverage. About nine o'clock the gentlemendeparted to their lodgings, and our beds were erected in the large roomwhere we had supped; the man assuring us that he was quite pleased to haveus under his roof, and liked our company extremely well; adding, "_Mecuadra mucho la gente decente_" (I am very fond of decent people). 

We left Taximaroa at six o'clock, having spent rather a disturbed night, inconsequence of the hollow coughs with which the whole family seemedafflicted, at least the poor invalid on one side of our room, and themaster of the house on the other. The morning was so cold, that every mangaand sarape was put in requisition. Our ride this day was through superbscenery, every variety of hill and valley, water and wood, particularly themost beautiful woods of lofty oaks, the whole with scarcely a trace ofcultivation, and for the most part entirely uninhabited. Our numbers wereaugmented by Colonel Y----'s troop, who rode from Morelia to meet him. Wehad a long journey, passed by the little village of _San Andrés_, andstopped to eat _tortillas_ in a very dirty hut at Pueblo Viejo, surroundedby the dirtiest little Indian children. Throughout the whole ride, thetrees and flowering shrubs were beautiful, and the scenery so varied, thatalthough we rode for eleven hours in a hot sun, we scarcely felt fatigued, for wherever there are trees and water and fresh green grass, the eye isrested. In this and in our last few days' journey, we saw a number of bluebirds, called by the common people _guardía-bosques_, wood guardians. Abouthalf-past five we entered a winding road, through a natural shrubbery, leading to _Querendaro_, the fine hacienda of Señor Pimentel, a senator. When we arrived the family were at dinner, and we were invited to jointhem, after which we went out to see the hacienda, and especially thehandsome and well-kept stables, where the proprietor has a famous breed ofhorses, some of which were trotted out for our inspection--beautiful, spirited creatures--one called "_Hilo de Oro_" (golden thread)--another, "_Pico Blanco_" (white mouth), etc. In the inner courtyard are manybeautiful and rare flowers, and everything is kept in great order. 

At nine o'clock the following morning we left Querendaro, and rode on to_San Bartolo_, a vast and beautiful property, belonging to Señor DonJoaquin Gomez, of Valladolid. The family were from home, with the exceptionof his son and nephew, who did the honours of the house with such cordialand genuine hospitality, that we felt perfectly at home before the day wasover. I think the Mexican character is never seen to such advantage as inthe country, amongst these great landed proprietors of old family, who liveon their own estates, engaged in agricultural pursuits, and entirelyremoved from all the party feeling and petty interests of a city life. Itis true that the life of a country gentleman here is that of a hermit, inthe total absence of all society, in the nearly unbroken solitude thatsurrounds him. For leagues and leagues there is no habitation but his own;the nearest miserable village may be distant half a day's journey, over analmost impassable road. He is "monarch of all he surveys, " a king amongsthis farm servants and Indian workmen. Nothing can exceed the independenceof his position; but to enjoy this wild country life, he must be born toit. He must be a first-rate horseman, and addicted to all kinds of countrysport; and if he can spend the day in riding over his estate, in directinghis workmen, watching over his improvements, redressing disputes andgrievances, and can sit down in the evening in his large and lonely halls, and philosophically bury himself in the pages of some favourite author, then his time will probably not hang heavy on his hands. 

As for the _young master_ here, he was up with the lark--he was on the mostuntractable horse in the hacienda, and away across the fields with hisfollowers, chasing the bulls as he went--he was fishing--he wasshooting--he was making bullets--he was leagues off at a village, seeing acountry bull-fight--he was always in a good humour, and so were all whosurrounded him--he was engaged in the dangerous amusement of _colear_--and by the evening it would have been a clever writer who had kept _his_eyes open after such a day's work. Never was there a young lad moreevidently fitted for a free life in the country. 

There was a generous, frank liberality apparent in everything in thishacienda, that it was agreeable to witness; nothing petty or calculating. Señor -----, lame through an accident, and therefore unable to mount hishorse, or to go far on foot, seemed singularly gentle and kind-hearted. Thehouse is one of the prettiest and most cheerful we have seen yet; but wepassed a great stone building on the road, which the proprietor of SanBartolo is having constructed for one of his family, which, if it keep itspromise, will be a palace when finished. The principal produce of thishacienda is _pimiento_, the capsicum. There is the _pimiento dulce_ and the_pimiento picante_, the sweet fruit of the common capsicum, and the fruitof the bird pepper capsicum. The Spaniards gave to all these peppers thename of _chile_, which they borrowed from the Indian word _quauhchilli_, and which, to the native Mexicans, is as necessary an ingredient of food assalt is to us. At dinner we had the greatest variety of fine fruit, andpulque, which is particularly good in this neighbourhood. They also makehere a quantity of excellent cheese. 

After dinner they proceeded to amuse us with the _colear_ of the bulls, ofwhich amusement the Mexicans throughout the whole republic are passionatelyfond. They collect a herd, single out several, gallop after them onhorseback; and he who is most skilful, catches the bull by the tail, passesit under his own right leg, turns it round the high pummel of his saddle, and wheeling his horse round at right angles by a sudden movement, the bullfalls on his face. Even boys of ten years old joined in this sport. It isno wonder that the Mexicans are such _centaurs_, seeming to form part andparcel of their horses, accustomed as they are from childhood to thesedangerous pastimes. This is very dangerous, since the horses' legsconstantly get entangled with those of the falling bull, which throws bothhorse and rider. Manifold are the accidents which result from it, but theyare certainly not received as warnings; and after all, such sports, wherethere is nothing bloody, nor even cruel, saving the thump which the bullgets, and the mortification which he no doubt feels, but from both of whichhe soon recovers; and which are mere games of skill, trials of address--aremanly and strengthening, and help to keep up the physical superiority ofthat fine race of men--the Mexican _rancheros_. 

The next day we parted from our travelling companions, the Count deB---- and Mr. W----, who are on their way to the fair of San Juan, and arefrom thence going to _Tepic_, even to the shores of the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, our time is limited, and we cannot venture on so distant anexpedition; but we greatly regretted separating from such pleasant_compagnons de voyage_. We spent the morning in walking about the hacienda, seeing cheese made, and visiting the handsome chapel, the splendid stonegranaries, the great mills, etc. We also hope to spend some time here onour return. By letters received this morning from Mexico, we find thatSeñor Gomez Pedraza has left the ministry. 

As we had but six leagues to ride in order to reach Morelia, we did notleave San Bartolo till four in the afternoon, and enjoyed a pretty ridethrough a fertile and well-wooded country, the road good and the eveningdelightful. As the sun set, millions and tens of millions of ducks, inregular ranks and regiments, darkening the air, flew over our heads, changing their quarters from one lake to another. Morelia is celebrated forthe purity of its atmosphere and the exceeding beauty of its sky; and thisevening upheld its reputation. Toward sunset, the whole western horizon wascovered with myriads of little lilac and gold clouds, floating in everyfantastic form over the bright blue of the heavens. The lilac deepened intopurple, blushed into rose-colour, brightened into crimson. The blue of thesky assumed that green tint peculiar to an Italian sunset. The sun himselfappeared a globe of living flame. Gradually he sank in a blaze of gold andcrimson, while the horizon remained lighted as by the flame from a volcano. Then his brilliant retinue of clouds, after blazing for a while in borrowedsplendour, melted gradually into every rainbow hue and tinge; from deepcrimson to rose-colour and pink and pale violet and faint blue, floating insilvery vapour, until they all blended into one soft gray tinge, whichswept over the whole western sky. But then the full moon rose in cloudlessserenity, and at length we heard, faintly, then more distinctly, and thenin all its deep and sonorous harmony, the tolling of the cathedral bell, which announced our vicinity to a great city. It has a singular effect, after travelling for some days through a wild country, seeing nothing but asolitary hacienda, or an Indian hut, to enter a fine city like Morelia, which seems to have started up as by magic in the midst of the wilderness, yet bearing all the traces of a venerable old age. By moonlight, it lookedlike a panorama of Mexico; with a fine square, portales, cathedral, broadstreets, and good houses. We rode through the city, to the house of ColonelY----, where we now are; but as we intend to continue our journey to itsfurthest limits without stopping, we are now, after a night's rest, preparing to resume our ride. They are saddling the horses, strapping onthe sarapes behind the saddles, taking down and packing up our _lits devoyage_, and loading the mules, all which is a work of time. On our returnwe hope to remain here a few days, to see everything that is worthy ofnotice. 

PASCUARO. 

Accompanied by several gentlemen of Morelia, who came early in the morningto see C---n, we set off for the warm baths of _Cuincho_; and as we rodealong, the hill of _Las Bateas_ was pointed out to us, where, by order ofthe Curate Morelos, two hundred Spaniards were murdered in cold blood, torevenge the death of his friend, the Curate Matamoros, who was takenprisoner and shot by orders of Yturbide. Horrible cruelty in a Christianpriest! It is singular, that the great leaders of the independence shouldhave been ecclesiastics; the Curate Hidalgo its prime mover, the CuratesMorelos and Matamoros the principal chiefs. Hidalgo, it is said, had noplan, published no manifesto, declared no opinions; but rushed from city tocity at the head of his men, displaying on his colours an image of theVirgin of Guadalupe, and inciting his troops to massacre the Spaniards. Morelos was an Indian, uneducated, but brave and enterprising, andconsidered the mildest and most merciful of these soldier priests!Matamoros, equally brave, was better informed. Both were good generals, andboth misused the power which their position gave them over the minds of theunenlightened populace. When Morelos became generalissimo of therevolutionary forces, he took a step fatal to his interests, and which ledto his ultimate ruin. He formed a congress, which met at Chilpansingo, andwas composed of lawyers and clergymen; ignorant and ambitious men, whoemployed themselves in publishing absurd decrees and impossible laws, inassigning salaries to themselves, and giving each other the title of_Excellency_. Disputes and divisions arose amongst them; and, in 1814, theypublished an absurd and useless document in the village of Apatzingan, towhich they gave the name of the "Mexican Constitution. " The following year, Morelos was defeated in an engagement which took place in the environs ofTesmelaca, taken prisoner, led to Mexico, and, after a short trial, degraded from his ecclesiastical functions, and shot in the village of SanCristobal Ecatepec, seven leagues from the capital. The revolutionary partyconsidered him as a martyr in the cause of liberty, and he is said to havedied like a true hero. The appellation of Morelia, given to the city ofValladolid, keeps his name in remembrance, but her blood-stained mountainis a more lasting record of his cruelty. 

A vile action is recorded of a Spaniard, whose name, which deserves to bebranded with infamy, escapes me at this moment. The soldiers of Moreloshaving come in search of him, he, standing at his door, pointed out hisbrother, who was in a room inside the house, as the person whom theysought; and escaped himself, leaving his brother to be massacred in hisplace. We contrasted the conduct of this miserable wretch with the nobleaction of the Prince de Polignac, under similar circumstances. 

At half-past ten, after a pleasant ride of about five leagues, we arrivedat the natural hot springs of Cuincho. The place is quite wild, the sceneryvery striking. The building consists of two very large baths, two very damprooms, and a kitchen. The baths are kept by a very infirm old man, a martyrto intermitting fever, and two remarkably handsome girls, his daughters, who live here completely alone, and, except in summer, when the baths areresorted to by a number of _canonigos_ and occasional gentlemen fromMorelia, "waste their sweetness on the desert air. " The house, such as itis, lies at the foot of rocky hills, covered with shrubs, and pouring downstreams of hot water from their volcanic bosoms. All the streams that crossyour path are warm. You step by chance into a little streamlet, and findthe water of a most agreeable temperature. They put this water in earthenjars to cool, in order to render it fit for drinking, but it never becomesfresh and cold. It contains muriatic acid, without any trace of sulphur ormetallic salt. I think it is Humboldt who supposes that in this part ofMexico there exists, at a great depth in the interior of the earth, afissure running from east to west, for one hundred and thirty-sevenleagues, through which, bursting the external crust of the porphyriticrocks, the volcanic fire has opened itself a passage at different times, from the coasts of the Mexican Gulf, as far as the South Sea. The famousvolcano of Jorullo is in this department, and boiling fountains are commonin various parts of it. 

We stopped here to take a bath, and found the temperature of the waterdelicious, about the ordinary temperature of the human body. The baths arerather dark, being enclosed in great stone walls, with the light comingfrom a very small aperture near the roof. A bird, that looked like a wildduck, was sailing about in the largest one, having made its entry alongwith the water when it was let in. I never bathed in any water which I somuch regretted leaving. After bathing, we waited for the arrival of ourmules, which were to follow us at a gentle pace, that we might havebreakfast, and continue our journey to _Pascuaro_, a city nine leaguesfarther. 

But several hours passed away, and no mules appeared; and at length we cameto the grievous conviction that the arrieros had mistaken the road, andthat we must expect neither food nor beds that night; for it was now toolate to think of reaching Pascuaro. In this extremity, the gentlemen fromMorelia, suffering for their politeness in having escorted us, the twodamsels of the bath, naiads of the boiling spring, pitying our hungrycondition, came to offer their services; one asked me if I should like "toeat a _burro_ in the mean time?" A _burro_ being an _ass_, I was ratherstartled at the proposition, and assured her that I should infinitelyprefer waiting a little longer before resorting to so desperate a measure. "Some people call them pecadoras, " (female sinners!) said her sister. Uponthis, the gentlemen came to our assistance, and burros or pecadoras wereordered forthwith. They proved to be hot tortillas, with cheese in them, and we found them particularly good. It grew late, but no mules arrived;and at length the young ladies and their father rushed out desperately, caught an old hen that was wandering amongst the hills, killed, skinned, and put it into a pot to boil, baked some fresh tortillas, and brought usthe spoil in triumph! One penknife was produced--the boiling pan placed ona deal table in the room off the bath, and every one, surrounding the fowl, a tough old creature, who must have chuckled through many revolutions, weate by turns, and concluded with a comfortable drink of lukewarm water. 

We then tried to beguile the time by climbing amongst the hills at the backof the house--by pushing our way through the tangled briers--by walking toa little lake, where there were ducks and waterfowl, and close to themargin a number of fruit trees. We returned to the baths--the mules had notbeen heard of--there was no resource but patience. Our Morelian friendsleft us to return home before it should grow dusk; and shortly after, anescort of twenty-three lancers, with a captain, arrived by orders of thegovernor, Don Panfilo Galiudo, to accompany us during the remainder of ourjourney. They looked very picturesque, with their lances, and littlescarlet flags, and gave a very formidable aspect to the little portico infront of the baths, where they deposited all their militaryaccoutrements--their saddles, guns, sarapes, etc. The captain had with himhis wife and daughter, and a baby of about two years old, which, during allthe time they were with us, was constantly carried by one of the soldiers, with the utmost care, in front of his horse. 

Meanwhile, the moon rose, and we walked about disconsolate, in front of thebaths--fearing greatly that some accident might have overtaken ourunescorted mules and servants; that the first might be robbed--and that thedrivers might be killed. But it was as well to try to sleep if it were onlyto get over the interminable night; and at length some clean straw wasprocured, and spread in a corner of the damp floor. There K---- and I laydown in our mangas. C---n procured another corner--Colonel Y---- a third, and then and thus, we addressed ourselves seriously to repose, but in vain. Between cold and mosquitoes and other animals, we could not close our eyes, and were thankful to rise betimes, shake the straw off, and resume ourmarch. 

The road was pretty and flowery when the light came in, and we graduallybegan to open our eyes, after taking leave of our fair hostesses and theirfather. When I say _the road_ you do not, I trust, imagine us riding alonga dusty highway. I am happy to say that we are generally the discoverers ofour own pathways. Every man his own Columbus. Sometimes we take short cuts, which prove to be long rounds:

 "Over hill, over dale, Through bush, through brier;"

through valley and over stream; and this kind of journey has something init so independent and amusing, that with all its fatigues andinconveniences, we find it delightful--far preferable even to travelling inthe most commodious London-built carriage, bowling along the queen'shighway with four swift posters, at the rate of twelve miles an hour. 

Arrived at the huts, we stopped to make inquiries concerning the mules. Twoloaded mules, the peasants said, had been robbed in the night, and the mentied to a tree on the low road leading to Pascuaro. We rode on uneasyenough, and at another hut were told that many robbers had been out in thenight, and that amongst others, a woman had been robbed and bound hand andfoot. The road now became bleak and uninteresting, the sun furiously hot, and we rode forward with various misgivings as to the fate of the party;when at a cluster of huts called _el Correo_, we came up with the wholeconcern. The arrieros had forgotten the name of Cuincho, and not knowingwhere to go, had stopped here the previous night, knowing that, we werebound for Pascuaro, and must pass that way. They had arrived early, andmissed the robbers. 

We stopped to breakfast at some huts called La Puerta de Chapultepec, wherewe got some tortillas from a halfcaste Indian, who was in great distress, because his wife had run off from him for the fourth time with "anothergentleman!" He vowed that though he had taken her back three times, henever would receive her more; yet I venture to say, that when the falsefair one presents herself, she will find him placable; he is evidently insuch distress at having no woman to take care of his house. 

After leaving Chapultepec, the scenery improves, and at length we had abeautiful view of the hills, at the foot of which lies the ancient city of_Tzintzontsan_, close by the opposite shore of the Lake of Pascuaro;formerly capital of the independent kingdom of Michoacán, an importantcity, called at the time of Cortes, _Hurtzitzila_. It was formerly theresidence of the monarch, King _Calsonsi_, an ally of Cortes, and who, withhis Indian subjects, assisted him in his Mexican war. It is now a poorIndian village, though it is said that some remains of the monarch's palacestill exist. _Apropos_ to which, we have several times observed, since weentered this state, large stones lying in fields, or employed in fences, with strange hieroglyphic characters engraved on them, some of which may becurious and interesting. 

The view as we approach Pascuaro with its beautiful lake studded withlittle islands, is very fine. The bells were tolling, and they were lettingoff rockets for some Indian festival, and we met parties of the natives whohad been keeping the festival upon _pulque_ or _mezcal_ (a strong spirit)and were stumbling along in great glee. We came up to an old church, thatlooks like a bird's-nest amongst the trees, and stands at the outskirts ofthe city. Here, it is said, his Majesty of Michoacán came out to meet hisSpanish ally, when he entered this territory. 

Pascuaro is a pretty little city with sloping roofs, situated on the shoresof the lake of the same name, and in front of the little Indian village ofJanicho, built on a beautiful small island in the midst of the lake. C---nsays that Pascuaro resembles a town in Catalonia. It is entirely unlike anyother Mexican city. We made a great sensation as we entered with ourlancers and mules, tired and dust-becovered as we were, and brought all the_Pascuaranians_ to their balconies. We passed churches bearing the date of1580! We went to the largest and best house in the town, that of Don MiguelH---a (a friend of Colonel Y----'s). He was from home, but we were mosthospitably entertained by his wife, who received us without any unnecessaryceremony or compliments, and made us quite at home. We walked out with herby moonlight to see the Square and the Portales, which is a promenade inthe evening, and were followed by crowds of little boys; strangers beingrather an uncommon spectacle here. The only foreign lady, Doña ----- says, whoever was here in her recollection, was a Frenchwoman, to whom she wasvery much attached, the daughter of a physician, and whose husband wasmurdered by the robbers. 

This morning, the weather being cold and rainy, and our quarters tooagreeable to leave in any violent haste, we agreed to remain untilto-morrow, and have spent a pleasant day in this fine large house, withDoña -----, and her numerous and handsome children. We have not been ableto visit the lake, or the Indian islands on account of the weather, but wehope to do so on our return from _Uruapa_, our next destination. Ourhostess is a most agreeable person; lively, kind-hearted, and full ofnatural talent. We did not expect to meet such a person in this corner ofthe world. 

The first bishop of Michoacán, Vasco de Quiroga, who died in Uruapa, wasburied in Pascuaro, and the Indians of this state still venerate hismemory. He was the father and benefactor of these Tarrascan Indians, andwent fast to rescue them from their degraded state. He not only preachedmorality, but encouraged industry amongst them, by assigning to eachvillage its particular branch of commerce. Thus one was celebrated for itsmanufacture of saddles, another for its shoes, a third for its _bateos_(painted trays), and so on. Every useful institution, of which some tracesstill remain amongst them, is due to this excellent prelate; an example ofwhat one good and zealous and well-judging man can effect. 

We have been taking another stroll by moonlight, the rain having ceased; wehave lingered over a pleasant supper, and have wished Doña ----- goodnight. Yet let me not forget, before laying down my pen, to celebrate theexcellence of the white fish from the lake! so greatly surpassing inexcellence and flavour those which we occasionally have in Mexico. These nodoubt must have constituted "_the provisions_, " which according totradition, were carried by regular running posts, from Tzintzontzan toMontezuma's palace in Mexico, and with such expedition, that though thedistance is about one hundred leagues, they were placed, still smoking, onthe Emperor's table!

URUAPA, 30th. 

We went to mass at six o'clock; and then took leave of the Señora H---a, who gave us a cordial invitation to spend some days with her on our return. It was about eight o'clock when we left Pascuaro, and mounted the hillsover which our road lay, and stopped to look down on the beautiful lake, lying like a sheet of silver in the sun, and dotted with green islands. 

Two disagreeable personages were added to our party. Early in the morning, intelligence was brought that a celebrated robber, named _Morales_, captainof a large band, had been seized along with one of his companions; andpermission was requested to take advantage of our large escort, in orderthat they may be safely conducted to Uruapa, where they are to be shot, being already condemned to death. The punishment of hanging is not in usein Mexico. 

The first thing therefore that we saw, on mounting our horses, was the tworobbers, chained together by the leg, guarded by five of our lancers, andprepared to accompany us on foot. The companion of Morales was a young, vulgar-looking ruffian, his face livid, and himself nearly naked; but therobber-captain himself was equal to any of Salvator's brigands, in his wildand striking figure and countenance. He wore a dark-coloured blanket, and ablack hat, the broad leaf of which was slouched over his face, which wasthe colour of death, while his eyes seemed to belong to a tiger or otherbeast of prey. I never saw such a picture of fierce misery. Strange to say, this man began life as a shepherd; but how he was induced to abandon thispastoral occupation, we did not hear. For years he has been the scourge ofthe country, robbing to an unheard of extent, (so that whatever he may havedone with them, tens of thousands of dollars have passed through hishands, ) carrying off the farmers' daughters to the mountains, and at thehead of eighty ruffians, committing the most horrible disorders. His lastcrime was murdering his wife in the mountains, the night before last, undercircumstances of barbarity too shocking to relate, and it is supposed, assisted by the wretch now with him. After committing the crime, they ranto hide themselves in an Indian village, as the Indians, probably fromfear, never betray the robbers. However, their horror of this man was sogreat, that perfect _hate_ cast out their fear, and collecting together, they seized the ruffians, bound them, and carried them to Pascuaro, wherethey were instantly tried, and condemned to be shot; the sentence to beexecuted at Uruapa. 

The sight of these miserable wretches, and the idea of what their feelingsmust be, occupied us, as they toiled along, each step bringing them nearerto their place of execution; and we could not help thinking what wildwishes must have sometimes throbbed within them, of breaking their bonds, and dashing away from their guards--away through the dark woods, overmountain and river, down that almost perpendicular precipice, over theravine, up that green and smiling hill, and into these gloomy pine woods, in whose untrod recesses they would be secure from pursuit--and then theirdespair when they felt the heavy, clanking chain on their bare feet, andlooked at the lances and guns that surrounded them, and knew that even ifthey attempted to fly, could they be insane enough to try it, a dozenbullets would stop their career for ever. Then horror and disgust at therecollection of their savage crimes took the place of pity, and not even-----'s suggestion, that the robber-chief might have killed his wife in atransport of jealousy, could lessen our indignation at this last mostbarbarous murder of a defenceless woman. 

But these thoughts took away half the pleasure of this most beautifuljourney, through wild woods, where for leagues and leagues we meet nothingbut the fatal _cross_; while through these woods of larches, cedars, oaks, and pines, are bright vistas of distant pasture-fields, and of loftymountains, covered with forests. Impossible to conceive a greater varietyof beautiful scenery--a greater _waste_ of beauty, if one may say so--fornot even an Indian hut was to be seen, nor did we meet a single passinghuman being, nor a trace of cultivation. As we came out of the woods weheard a gun fired amongst the hills, the first token of human life that hadgreeted us since we left Pascuaro. This, Señor ----- told us, was thesignal-gun usually fired by the Indians on the approach of an armed troop, warning their brethren to hide themselves. Here the Indians rarely speakSpanish, as those do who live in the neighbourhood of cities. Theirlanguage is chiefly the harmonious Tarrascan. 

Towards the afternoon we came to a path which led us into a valley of themost surpassing beauty, entirely carpeted with the loveliest blue, white, pink, and scarlet wild flowers, and clothed with natural orchards of peachand apricot trees in full bloom, the grass strewed with their richblossoms. Below ran a sparkling rivulet, its bright gushing waters leapingover the stones and pebbles that shone in the sun like silver. Near thisare some huts called _Las Palomas_, and it was so charming a spot, that wegot off our horses, and halted for half-an-hour; and while they preparedbreakfast for us, a basket of provisions from Pascuaro having been broughton by the provident care of Doña -----, we clambered out amongst the rocksand luxuriant trees that dipped their leafy branches in the stream, andpulled wild flowers that would grace any European garden. 

Having breakfasted in one of the huts, upon fowl and tortillas, on whichmemorable occasion two penknives were produced (and I still wonder why wedid not bring some; knives and forks with us, unless it be that we shouldnever have had them cleaned), we continued our journey: and this mention ofknives leads me to remark, that all common servants in Mexico, and allcommon people, eat with their fingers! Those who are rather particular, roll up two tortillas, and use them as a knife and fork, which, I canassure you from experience, is a great deal better than nothing, when youhave learnt how to use them. 

Our road after this, though even wilder and more picturesque, was veryfatiguing to the horses--up and down steep rocks, among forests of oak andpine, through which we slowly wended our way; so that it was dark when wedescended a precipitous path, leading to a small Indian village, or ratherencampment, called _Curu_. It was now too late to think of reaching Uruapa, or of venturing to climb by night the series of precipices called the_Cuesta de Curu_, over which we should have had to pass. But such a placeas _Curu_ for Christians to pass the night in! A few miserable huts filledwith Indians, and not, so far as we could discern, even an empty shed, where we might rest under cover. However, there was no remedy. The_arriero_ had already unloaded his mules, and was endeavouring to find someprovender for them and the poor horses. It was quite dark, but there was adelicious fragrance of orange-blossoms, and we groped our way up to thetrees, and pulled some branches by way of consolation. At length an oldwooden barn was discovered, and there the beds of the whole party were putup! We even contrived to get some boiling water and to have some teamade--an article of luxury which, as well as a teapot, we carry with us. Wesat down upon our trunks, and a piece of candle was procured and lighted, and, after some difficulty, made to stand upright on the floor. The barn, made of logs, let the air in on all sides, and the pigs thrust their snoutsin at every crevice, grunting harmoniously. Outside, in the midst of theencampment, the soldiers lighted a large fire, and sat round it roastingmaize. The robbers sat amongst them, chained, with a soldier mounting guardbeside them. The fire, flashing on the livid face of Morales, who, crouchedin his blanket, looked like a tiger about to spring--the soldiers, somewarming their hands at the blaze, some lying rolled in their sarapes, andothers devouring their primitive supper--together with the Indian womenbringing them hot tortillas from the huts--the whole had a curious andpicturesque effect. As for us, we also rolled ourselves in our mangas, andlay down in our barn, but passed a miserable night. The pigs grunted, themosquitoes sung, a cold air blew in from every corner, and, fortunately, wewere not until morning aware of the horrid fact, that a whole nest ofscorpions, with their tails twisted together, were reposing above our headsin the log wall. Imagine the condition of the unfortunate slumberer onwhose devoted head they had descended _en masse_! In spite of the fragrantorange-blossom, we set off early the next morning. 

URUAPA. 

On leaving the fascinating village of Curu, we began to ascend _La Cuesta_;and travelled slowly four leagues of mountain-road, apparentlyinaccessible; but the sure-footed horses, though stepping on loose andnearly precipitous rocks, rarely stumbled. The mountain of Curu isvolcanic, a chaos of rent rocks, beetling precipices, and masses of lavathat have been disgorged from the burning crater. Yet from every crag andcrevice of the rock spring the most magnificent trees, twisted withflowering parasites, shrubs of the brightest green, and pale delicateflowers, whose gentle hues seem all out of place in this savage scene. Beside the forest oak and the stern pine, the tree of the white blossoms, the graceful _floripundio_, seems to seek for shelter and support. Creepersthat look like scarlet honeysuckles, and flowering vines of every varietyof colour, hang in bright garlands and festoons, intwining the boughs ofthe trees; adorning, but not concealing the masses of bare rock and theprecipitous crag that frowns amidst all this luxury of vegetation. Thewhole scene is "horribly beautiful. "

As we wound through these picturesque paths, where only one can go at atime, our train stretched out to an immense distance, and the scarletstreamers and lances of the soldiers looked very picturesque, appearing andthen vanishing amongst the rocks and trees. At one part, looking back tosee the effect, I caught the eye of the robber Morales, glaring with such afrightful expression, that, forgetful of his chains, I whipped up my horsein the greatest consternation, over stones and rocks. He and the scene werein perfect unison. 

At length we came to the end of this extraordinary mountain-forest, andafter resting the tired horses for a little while, in a grove of pines andyellow acacias, entered the most lovely little wood, a succession offlowers and shrubs, and bright green grass, with vistas of fertilecornfields bordered by fruit trees-a peaceful scene, on which the eye restswith pleasure, after passing through these wild, volcanic regions. 

On leaving the woods, the path skirts along by the side of these fields, and leads to the valley where Uruapa, the gem of the Indian villages, liesin tranquil beauty. It has indeed some tolerable streets and a few goodhouses; but her boast is in the Indian cottages-all so clean and snug, andtasteful, and buried in fruit trees. 

We rode through shady lanes of trees, bending under the weight of oranges, _chirimoyas, granaditas, platanos_, and every sort of delicious fruit. Wefound that, through the kindness of Señor Ysasaga, the principal personhere, the curate's house had been prepared to receive us--an oldunfurnished house next the church, and at present unoccupied, its ownerbeing absent. We found the whole family extremely kind and agreeable; thefather a well-informed, pleasant old gentleman, the mother still beautiful, though in bad health; and all the daughters pretty and unaffected. One ismarried to a brother of Madame Yturbide's. They made many apologies for notinviting us to their own house, which is under repair; but as it is but afew steps off, we shall spend most of our time with them. It seems strangeto meet such people in this secluded spot! Yet, peaceful and solitary as itappears, it has not escaped the rage of civil war, having been burnt downfour different times by insurgents and by Spaniards. Señor Ysasaga, whobelongs to Valladolid, has taken an active part in all these revolutions, having been the personal friend and partisan of Hidalgo. His escapes andadventures would fill a volume. 

I could not help taking one last look of the robbers, as we entered thisbeautiful place, where Morales at least is to be shot. It seemed to me asif they had grown perfectly deathlike. The poor wretches must be tiredenough, having come on foot all the way from Pascuaro. 

31st. --This place is so charming, we have determined to pitch our tent init for a few days. Our intention was to proceed twenty leagues farther, tosee the volcano of Jorullo; but as the road is described to us as beingentirely devoid of shade, and the heat almost insupportable--with variousother difficulties and drawbacks--we have been induced, though with greatregret, to abandon the undertaking, which it is as tantalizing to do, as itis to reflect that yesterday we were but a short distance from a hill whichis but thirty leagues from the Pacific Ocean. 

In 1813, M. De Humboldt and M. Bonpland, ascended to the crater of thisburning mountain, which was formed in September 1759. Its birth wasannounced by earthquakes, which put to flight all the inhabitants of theneighbouring villages; and three months after, a terrible eruption burstforth, which filled all the inhabitants with astonishment and terror, andwhich Humboldt considers one of the most extraordinary physical revolutionsthat ever took place on the surface of the globe. 

Flames issued from the earth for the space of more than a square league. Masses of burning rock were thrown to an immense height, and through athick cloud of ashes, illuminated by the volcanic fire, the whitened crustof the earth was gradually seen swelling up. The ashes even covered theroofs of the houses at Querétaro, forty-eight leagues distance! and therivers of San Andrés and Cuitumba sank into the burning masses. The flameswere seen from Pascuaro; and from the hills of Agua-Zarca was beheld thebirth of this volcanic mountain, the burning offspring of an earthquake, which bursting from the bosom of the earth, changed the whole face of thecountry for a considerable distance round. 

 "And now, the glee Of the loud hills shakes with its mountain mirth, As if they did rejoice o'er a young earthquake's birth. "

Here the earth returned the salutation, and shook, though it was withfearful mirth, at the birth of the young volcano. 

In a letter written at the time of the event to the bishop of Michioacán bythe curate of the neighbouring village, he says, that the eruption finishedby destroying the hacienda of Jorullo, and killing the trees, which werethrown down and buried in the sand and ashes vomited by the mountain. Thefields and roads were, he says, covered with sand, the crops destroyed, andthe flocks perishing for want of food, unable to drink the pestilentialwater of the mountains. The rivulet that ran past his village was swelledto a mighty river, that threatened to inundate it; and he adds, that thehouses, churches, and hospitals are ready to fall down from the weight ofthe sand and the ashes--and that "the very people are so covered with thesand, that they seem to have come out of some sepulchre. " The greateruptions of the volcano continued till the following year, but havegradually become rarer, and at present have ceased. 

Having now brought our journey to its furthest limits, I shall concludethis letter. 

LETTER THE FIFTIETH

Indian Dresses--Saints--Music--Union of Tropical and EuropeanVegetation--Old Customs--Falls of the Sararaqui--Silkworms--IndianPainting--Beautiful Heroine--Leave Uruapa--Tziracuaratiro--TalkativeIndian--Alcalde's House--Pascuaro--Old Church--Mosaic Work--The Lake--TheCave--Fried Fish--Rich Indians--Convent--Cuincho--Darkness--Morelia--Alameda--Cathedral--Silver--Waxworks--College--Wonderful Fleas. 

URIMPA, 31st. 

The dress of the Indian women of Uruapa is pretty, and they are altogethera much cleaner and better-looking race than we have yet seen. They wear"_naguas_, " a petticoat of black cotton with a narrow white and bluestripe, made very full, and rather long; over this, a sort of short chemisemade of coarse white cotton, and embroidered in different coloured silks. It is called the _sutunacua_--over all is a black reboso, striped withwhite and blue, with a handsome silk fringe of the same colours. When theyare married, they add a white embroidered veil, and a remarkably prettycoloured mantle the _huepilli_, which they seem to pronounce _guipil_. Thehair is divided, and falls down behind in two long plaits, fastened at thetop by a bow of ribbon and a flower. In this dress there is no alterationfrom what they wore in former days; saving that the women of a higher classwore a dress of finer cotton with more embroidery, and a loose garment overall, resembling a priest's surplice, when the weather was cold. Among themen, the introduction of trousers is Spanish--but they still wear the_majtlatl_, a broad belt, with the ends tied before and behind, and the_tilmatli_ or _tilma_ as they now call it, a sort of square short cloak, the ends of which are tied across the breast, or over one shoulder. It ison a coarse _tilma_ of this description that the image of the Virgin ofGuadalupe was found painted. 

Yesterday, being the festival of San Andrés, the Indians were all in fullcostume and procession, and we went into the old church to see them. Theywere carrying the saint in very fine robes, the women bearing colouredflags and lighted tapers, and the men playing on violins, flutes, anddrums. All had garlands of flowers to hang on the altars; and for theselights and ornaments, and silk and tinsel robes, they save up all theirmoney. They were playing a pretty air, but I doubt its being original. Itwas not melancholy and monotonous, like the generality of Indian music, buthad something wild and gay in it; it was probably Spanish. The organ wasplayed by an Indian. After mass we went upstairs to try it, and wonderedhow, with such miserable means, he had produced anything like music. In thepatio, between the curate's house and the church, are some very brilliantlarge scarlet flowers, which they call here "flor del pastor, " theshepherd's flower; a beautiful kind of euphorbia; and in other places, "flor de noche buena, " the flower of Christmas eve. 

Last evening we walked out in the environs of this garden of Eden, by thebanks of the river _Marques_, amidst a most extraordinary union of tropicaland European vegetation; the hills covered with firs, and the plains withsugar-cane. We walked amongst bananas, shaddock, chirimoyas, and orangetrees, and but a few yards higher up, bending over and almost touchingthem, were groves of oak and pine. The river pursues its bright unweariedcourse through this enchanting landscape, now falling in cascades, nowwinding placidly at the foot of the silent hills and among the dark woods, and in one part forming a most beautiful natural bath, by pouring itswaters into an enclosure of large, smooth, flat stones, overshadowed bynoble trees. 

A number of the old Indian customs are still kept up here, modified by theintroduction of Christian doctrines, in their marriages, feasts, burials, and superstitious practices. They also preserve the same simplicity intheir dress, united with the same vanity and love of show in theirornaments, which always distinguished them. The poorest Indian woman stillwears a necklace of red coral, or a dozen rows of red beads, and theirdishes are still the _gicalli_, or, as they were called by the Spaniards, _gicaras_, made of a species of gourd, or rather a fruit resembling it, andgrowing on a low tree, which fruit they cut in two, each one furnishing twodishes; the inside is scooped out, and a durable varnish given it by meansof a mineral earth, of different bright colours, generally red. On theoutside they paint flowers, and some of them are also gilded. They areextremely pretty, very durable and ingenious. The beautiful colours whichthey employ in painting these _gicaras_ are composed not only of variousmineral productions, but of the wood, leaves, and flowers of certainplants, of whose properties they have no despicable knowledge. Their owndresses, manufactured by themselves of cotton, are extremely pretty, andmany of them very fine. 

December 1st. --We rode out early this morning, and passing through thelanes bordered with fruit trees, and others covered with blossoms ofextraordinary beauty, of whose names I only know the _floripundio_, ascended into the pine woods, fragrant and gay with wild thyme, and brightflowers; the river falling in small cascades among the rocks. After ridingalong these heights for about two leagues, we arrived at the edge of asplendid valley of oaks. Here we were obliged to dismount, and to make ourway on foot down the longest, steepest, and most slippery of paths, windingin rapid descent through the woods; with the prospect of being repaid forour toil, by the sight of the celebrated Falls of the _Sararaqui_. Afterhaving descended to the foot of the oak-covered mountain, we came to agreat enclosure of lofty rocks, prodigious natural bulwarks, through agreat cavern in which the river comes thundering and boiling into thevalley, forming the great cascade of the Sararaqui, which in the Tarrascanlanguage means _sieve_. It is a very fatiguing descent, but it is worthwhile to make the whole journey from Mexico, to see anything so wildlygrand. The falls are from fifty to sixty feet high, and of great volume. The rocks are covered with shrubs and flowers, with small jets of waterissuing from every crevice. One lovely flower, that looks as if it wereformed of small white and rose-coloured shells, springs out of the stonesnear the water. There are rattlesnakes among the woods, and wild boars haveoccasionally been seen. The Señoritas Y----, when children, two or threeyears ago, wandering among these mountain-paths, saw an immense rattlesnakecoiled up, and tempted by its gaudy colours, were about to lift it, when itsuddenly wakened from its slumber, uncoiled itself, and swiftly glided upthe path before them, its rattles sounding all the way up amongst thehills. 

We sat beside the falls for a long while, looking at the boiling, hissing, bubbling, foaming waters, rolling down headlong with such impetuousvelocity that one could hardly believe they form part of the same placidstream, which flows so gently between its banks, when no obstacles opposeit; and at all the little silvery threads of water, that formed mimiccascades among the rocks; but at length we were obliged to recommence ourtoilsome march up the slippery mountain. We were accompanied by severalofficers--amongst others, by the commandant of Uruapa. 

Señor ----- says that they are at present occupied here at the instigationof a Frenchman, named _Genould_, in planting a large collection of mulberrytrees, (which prosper wonderfully well in this climate) for the propagationof silkworms. But they have no facilities for transport, and at what marketcould the silk be sold? There are a thousand improvements wanting here, which would be more profitable than this speculation. They have sugar, corn, maize, minerals, wood, cotton, water for machinery; every valuableand important produce, all requiring their more immediate attention. We hada pleasant ride home, and when we got back amongst the lanes leading to thevillage, stopped every moment to admire and wonder at the rare andbeautiful blossoms on the trees; and pulled branches of flowers off them, more delicate and lovely than the rarest exotics in an English hothouse. 

This morning, the weather was damp and rainy, but in the afternoon we tooka long walk, and visited several Indian cottages, all clean, and the wallshung with fresh mats, the floors covered with the same; and all with theirkitchen utensils of baked earth, neatly hung on the wall, from the largestsize in use, to little dishes and _jarritos_ in miniature, which are onlyplaced there for ornament. We also went to purchase _gicaras_, and to seethe operation of making and painting them, which is very curious. Theflowers are not painted, but inlaid. We were fortunate in procuring a goodsupply of the prettiest, which cannot be procured anywhere else. We boughta very pretty _sutunacua, _ and a black reboso. The women were not at allanxious to sell their dresses, as they make them with great trouble, andpreserve them with great care. 

We had a beautiful walk to the Magdalena, about a mile from the village. Every day we discover new beauties in the environs. And one beauty we sawon entering a small rancho, where they were painting gicaras at a table, while a woman lay in the shaking fever in a bed adjoining, which was quiteconsistent with the place. This was a lady, the proprietress of a goodestate some leagues off, who was seated on her own trunk, outside the doorof the rancho. She was a beautiful woman in her prime, the gentlemen said_passée, _ and perhaps at eighteen she may have been more charming still;but now she was a model for a Judith-or rather for a Joan of Arc, eventhough sitting on her own luggage. She was very fair, with large blackeyes, long eyelashes, and a profusion of hair as black as jet. Her teethwere literally dazzling--her lips like the reddest coral--her colourglowing as the down upon a ripe peach. Her figure was tall and full, withsmall, beautifully-formed hands, and fine arms. She rose as we came in, andbegged us to be seated on a bench near the door; and with theunceremoniousness of travellers who meet in outlandish places, we enteredinto conversation with her. She told us her name, and her motives fortravelling, and gave us an account of an adventure she had had with therobbers, of which she was well fitted to be the heroine. It appears thatshe was travelling with her two sons, lads of fifteen and sixteen, whenthey arrived at this rancho to rest for the night; for by this time youwill understand that those who travel hereabouts must trust to chance or tohospitality for a night's lodging. To their surprise, they found thefarmers gone, their dogs gone, and the house locked. They had noalternative but to rest as they could, among their luggage and mules, inthe yard in front of the house. In the middle of the night they wereattacked by robbers. The boys instantly took their guns, and fired, butwithout effect. Still, in the darkness, the robbers probably imagined thatthere were more people and more arms, and when she, dragging a loadedmusket off one of the horses, prepared to join in the engagement, thecowardly ruffians took flight--a good half dozen before a woman and twoboys. She was particularly indignant at the farmers, these "_malditosrancheros_, " as she called them, who she said had been bribed or frightenedinto withdrawing their dogs and themselves. 

We returned home after a long walk in the dark, and in the midst of all thehowling, yelping, snarling, barking dogs, which rushed out as we went by, from every cottage in Uruapa. 

After supper they sent for a clever Indian girl, who understands Spanish aswell as her native idiom, and who translated various Castilian words for usinto the original Tarrascan, which sounds very liquid and harmonious. To-morrow we shall leave Uruapa and this hospitable family, whose kindnessand attention to us we never can forget. It seems incredible that we haveonly known them a few days. We have, however, the hopes of seeing themagain as we pass through Valladolid, where they intend removing in a fewdays. 

PASCUARO, 4th December. 

We left Uruapa yesterday morning at eleven o'clock, accompanied part of theway by Señor Ysasaga and another gentleman, amongst whom was MadameYturbide's brother. We are now returning to Morelia, but avoided _Curu_ andthe rocks, both to save our animals, and for the sake of variety. We rodethrough large tracks of land, all belonging to the Indians. The day wasagreeable and cloudy, and the road, as usual, led us through beautifulscenery, monotonous in description, and full of variety in fact. Thoughnearly uninhabited, and almost entirely uncultivated, it has pleased natureto lavish so much beauty on this part of the country, that there is nothingmelancholy in its aspect; no feeling of dreariness in riding a whole day, league after league, without seeing a trace of human life. These forestpaths always appear as if they must, in time, lead to some habitation; thewoods, the groves, the clumps of trees, seem as if they had been disposed, or at least beautified by the hand of art. We cannot look on these smilingand flowery valleys, and believe that such lovely scenes are alwaysuntenanted--that there are no children occasionally picking up theseapricots--no village girls to pluck these bright, fragrant flowers. Wefancy that they are out in the fields, and will be there in the evening, and that their hamlet is hid behind the slope of the next hill; and it isonly when we come to some Indian hut, or cluster of poor cabins in thewilderness, that we are startled by the conviction that this enchantingvariety of hill and plain, wood and water, is for the most part unseen byhuman eye, and untrod by human footsteps. 

We had no further adventure during this day's journey, than buying breadand cheese from sheer hunger, at a little wooden tavern by the road-side, whose shelves were covered with glittering rows of bottles of brandy and_mezcal_. At some of the Indian huts also we bought various branches of_plátanos_, that most useful of fruits, and basis of the food of the poorinhabitants of all the tropical climates. It has been said that the bananais not indigenous in America, and that it was brought over by a friar toSanto Domingo. If so, its adopted country agrees with it better than itsnative land; but I believe there are many traditions which go to prove thatit did already exist in this hemisphere before the sixteenth century, andthat the Spaniards did no more than increase the number of the alreadyindigenous species. Its nutritive qualities, and the wonderful facilitywith which it is propagated, render it at once the most useful of trees, and the greatest possible incentive to indolence. In less than one yearafter it is planted the fruit may be gathered and the proprietor has but tocut away the old stems and leave a sucker, which will produce fruit threemonths after. There are different sorts of bananas, and they are used indifferent ways; fresh, dried, fried, etc. The dried plantain, a greatbranch of trade in Michoacán, with its black shrivelled skin and flavour ofsmoked fish or ham, is exceedingly liked by the natives. It is, of allMexican articles of food, my peculiar aversion. 

About four o'clock we arrived at the small village of Tziracuaratiro, acollection of Indian cottages, with little gardens, surrounded by orangeand all manner of fruit trees. As we had still one or two hours ofdaylight, and this was our next halting-place, we wandered forth on foot toexplore the environs, and found a beautiful shady spot, a grassy knoll, sheltered by the surrounding woods, where we sat down to rest and to inhalethe balmy air, fragrant with orange-blossoms. We were amused by asly-looking Indian, of whom C---n asked some questions, and who wasexceedingly talkative, giving us an account of his whole _ménage_, andespecially praising beyond measure his own exemplary conduct to his wife, from which I infer that he beats her, as indeed all Indians consider ittheir particular privilege to do; and an Indian woman who complained to apadre of her husband's neglect, mentioned, as the crowning proof of hisutter abandonment of her, that he had not given her a beating for a wholefortnight. Some one asked him if he allowed his wife to govern him. "Oh!no, " said he, "that would be the mule leading the arriero!"

There was nothing to be seen in the village, of which it hardly deservesthe name, but a good-looking old church, which two old women were sweepingout; but they told us they rarely had mass there, as the padre lived a longway off. The alcalde permitted us and our escort to occupy his house, consisting of three empty rooms with mud floors; and about seven the nextmorning we were again on horseback, and again _en route_ for Pascuaro; apretty ride of eleven or twelve leagues. We breakfasted at the village of_Ajuna_, in a clean hut where they gave us quantities of tortillas andchile, baked by some very handsome _tortilleras_. A number of women werecarrying about a virgin all covered with flowers, to the sound of a littlebell. 

It was about four o'clock when we arrived at the hills near Pascuaro. Herewe dismounted from our horses, and remained till it was nearly dusk, layingon the grass, and gazing on the lake, as the shadows of evening stoleslowly over its silver waters. Little by little the green islands becameindistinct; a gray vapour concealed the opposite shores; and like a lightbreath spread gradually over the mirrored surface of the lake. Then weremounted our horses, and rode down into Pascuaro, where we found theSeñora H---a as before, ready to receive us, and where, our mules beingdisabled, we proposed remaining one or two days. 

5th. --We have been spending a quiet day in Pascuaro, and went to mass inthe old church, which is handsome and rich in gilding. At the door isprinted in large letters--"For the love of God, all good Christians arerequested not to spit in this holy place. " If we might judge from theobservation of one morning, I should say that the better classes inPascuaro are fairer and have more colour than is general in Mexico; and ifthis is so, it may be owing partly to the climate being cooler and damper, and partly to their taking more exercise (there being no carriages here), whereas in Mexico no family of any importance can avoid having one. 

We were very anxious to see some specimens of that mosaic-work which allancient writers upon Mexico have celebrated, and which was nowhere broughtto such perfection as in Pascuaro. It was made with the most beautiful anddelicate feathers, chiefly of the _picaflores_, the humming-birds, whichthey called _huitzitailin_. But we are told that it is now upwards oftwenty years since the last artist in this branch lived in Pascuaro; andthough it is imitated by the nuns, the art is no longer in the state ofperfection to which it was brought in the days of Cortes. We are told thatseveral persons were employed in each painting, and that it was a workrequiring extraordinary patience and nicety, in the blending of thecolours, and in the arrangement of the feathers. The sketch of the figurewas first made, and the proportions being measured, each artist took chargeof one particular part of the figure or of the drapery. When each hadfinished his share, all the different parts were reunited, to form thepicture. The feathers were first taken up with some soft substance with theutmost care, and fastened with a glutinous matter upon a piece of stuff;then, the different parts being reunited, were placed on a plate of copper, and gently polished, till the surface became quite equal, when theyappeared like the most beautiful paintings, or, according to these writers, more beautiful from the splendour and liveliness of the colours, the brightgolden, and blue, and crimson tints, than the paintings which theyimitated. Many were sent to Spain, and to different museums both in Europeand Mexico; but the art is now nearly lost, nor does it belong to thepresent utilitarian age. Our forefathers had more leisure than we, andprobably we have more than our descendants will have, who, for aught weknow, may, by extra high-pressure, be able to

 "Put a girdle round about the earth in forty minutes. "

We, however, saw some few specimens of saints and angels, very defective inthe sketch, but beautiful in the colouring, and quite sufficient to proveto us that there was no exaggeration in these accounts. 

7th. --We rode yesterday to the shores of the lake, where we embarked in along canoe, formed of the hollow trunk of a tree, and rowed by Indians, apeculiarly ugly race, with Tartar-looking faces. The lake was very placid, clear as one vast mirror, and covered with thousands of wild ducks, whiteegrets, cranes, and herons--all those waterfowl who seem to whiten theirplumage by constant dipping in pools and marshes and lakes. On the oppositeshore, to the right, lay the city of Tzinzunzan; and on a beautiful islandin the midst of the lake the village of _Janicho_, entirely peopled byIndians, who mingle little with the dwellers on the mainland, and havepreserved their originality more than any we have yet seen. We wereaccompanied by the prefect of Pascuaro, whom the Indians fear and hate inequal ratio, and who did seem a sort of Indian _Mr. Bumble_; and, after along and pleasant row, we landed at the island, where we were received bythe village alcalde, a half-caste Indian, who sported a pair of bright bluemerino pantaloons! I suppose to distinguish himself from his blanketedbrethren. The island is entirely surrounded by a natural screen of willowand ash-trees, and the village consists of a few scattered houses, withsmall cultivated patches of ground, the alcalde's house, and an old church. 

We walked, or rather climbed, all over the island, which is hilly androcky, and found several great stones entirely covered with the ancientcarving. Moved by curiosity, we entered various caverns where idols havebeen found, and amongst others one large cave, which we had no soonergroped our way into than I nearly fell down suffocated by the horrible andmost pestilential atmosphere. It appears that it is the sleeping-place ofall the bats in the island; and heaven forbid that I should ever againenter a bat's bedchamber! I groped my way out again as fast as possible, heedless of idols and all other antiquities, seized a _cigarito_ from thehand of the astonished prefect, who was wisely smoking at the entrance, lighted it, and inhaled the smoke, which seemed more fragrant than violets, after that stifling and most unearthly odour. 

The chief food of these islanders, besides the gourds and other vegetableswhich they cultivate, is the white fish, for which the lake is celebrated;and while we were exploring the island, the Indians set off in their canoesto catch some for us. These were fried at the alcalde's and we made abreakfast upon them which would have rejoiced the heart of an epicure. 

We then went to visit the church; and, though the cottages are poor, thechurch is, as usual, handsome. Amongst other curiosities there is a Virgin, entirely covered with Indian embroidery. The organist's place is hereditaryin an Indian family, descending from father to son. The long-haired Indianwho played it for us has such a gentle expression and beardless face, thathe looks like a very young woman. Some of the Indians here are very rich, and bury their money; and one, called Agustin Campos, who has beautifiedthe church, as we read on an inscription carved on a stone outside, hasthirty thousand dollars, is much respected, and has the addition of _Don_to his name, yet wears a coarse blanket like his fellow-men. We staid somehours on the island, and went into some of the huts, where the women werebaking tortillas, one Indian custom, at least, which has descended to thesedays without variation. They first cook the grain in water with a littlelime, and when it is soft peel off the skin; then grind it on a large blockof stone, the _metate_, or, as the Indians (who know best) call it, the_metatl_. For the purpose of grinding it, they use a sort of stone roller, with which it is crushed, and rolled into a bowl placed below the stone. They then take some of this paste, and clap it between their hands tillthey form it into light round cakes, which are afterwards toasted on asmooth plate, called the _comalli_ (_comal_ they call it in Mexico), andwhich ought to be eaten as hot as possible. 

On our return, we had the variety of a slight storm, which ruffled theplacid surface of the lake, and caused the rowers to exert all theirstrength to bring the canoe to port before it should become more violent. 

This morning we walked all through Pascuaro, which can boast of many goodhouses, a square and portales, and ended by going to visit the convent ofSanta Catarina. We saw some of the nuns, who wear white dresses, and, instead of veils, the black Indian reboso. They were common-looking women, and not very amiable in their manners; but we did not go further than theoutside entry. On our return we met a remarkable baby in arms, wearing anenormous white satin turban, with a large plume of white feathers on oneside, balanced on the other by huge bunches of yellow ribbons and pinkroses. It also wore two robes, a short and a long one, both trimmed allround with large plaitings of yellow satin ribbon. It was evidently verymuch admired as it passed along. To-morrow, our mules having recovered, weset off for Valladolid. 

VALLADOLID, 9th. 

About half-past seven we left Pascuaro, which, considering that we had along day's journey before us, was scarce early enough. We regretted verymuch taking leave of the Señora H---a, who has been so kind to us, and whomwe can certainly never hope to see again. I observe that in these longdays' journeys we generally set off in silence, and sometimes ride on forhours without exchanging a word. Towards the middle of the day we grow moretalkative, and again towards evening we relapse into quiet. I suppose it isthat in the morning we are sleepy, and towards evening begin to growtired--feeling sociable about nine o'clock, a. M. , and not able to talk fora longer period than eight or ten hours. It was about four in the afternoonwhen we reached Cuincho, where we were welcomed by the damsels of thebaths, whose father is now still more of an invalid than before. It is alonely life that these poor girls lead here, nor should I think theirposition a very secure one. Their poverty, however, is a safeguard to acertain extent, and there are few robbers in this country in the style ofMorales. We were tempted to stop here and take a bath, in consequence ofwhich it was dark when we set off for Morelia. The horses, unable to see, took enormous leaps over every little streamlet and ditch, so that weseemed to be riding a steeple-chase in the dark. Our gowns caught upon thethorny bushes, and our journey might have been traced by the tatters weleft behind us. At length we rode the wrong way, up a stony hill, which ledus to a wretched little village of about thirty huts, each having ten dogson an average, according to the laudable custom of the Indians. Out theyall rushed simultaneously, yelping like three hundred demons, biting thehorses' feet, and springing round us. Between this canine concert, thekicking of the horses, the roar of a waterfall close beside us, theshouting of people telling us to come back, and the pitch darkness, Ithought we should all have gone distracted. We did, however, make our wayout from amongst the dogs, redescended the stony hill, the horses leapingover various streamlets that crossed their path, turned into the rightroad, and entered the gates of Morelia without further adventure, betweennine and ten o'clock. 

MORELIA, 11th. We have passed the last few days very agreeably in thisbeautiful city, seeing everything worthy of notice, and greatly admiringthe wide and airy streets, the fine houses, the handsome public buildings, but especially the cathedral, the college, and the churches. It has also afine square, with broad piazzas occupying three of its sides, while thecathedral bounds it to the east. There is a crowded market in the plaza, and a fine display of fruit and vegetables. The population is said to be alittle upwards of fifteen thousand, but one would suppose it to be muchgreater. Living and house-rent is so cheap here, that a family who couldbarely exist upon their means in Mexico, may enjoy every luxury inValladolid. The climate is delightful, and there is something extremelycheerful in the aspect of the city, in which it differs greatly fromToluca. We received visits from various _Morelians_, amongst others fromDon Cayetano Gomez, the proprietor of San Bartolo. 

We went one evening to the alameda, a broad, straight walk, paved with flatstones, shaded by fine trees, under which are stone benches, and bounded bya low stone wall. Several ladies were sitting there, whom we joined, andamongst others, a remarkably pretty _Poblana_, married into the Gomezfamily. The alameda is crossed by a fine aqueduct of solid masonry, withlight and elegant arches. We drove to the _paséo_, a broad, shady road, where we met but few carriages; and the same evening we went out on foot toenjoy the music of a very good military band, which plays occasionally forthe amusement of the citizens. It is not to be supposed that, when Mexicocan boast of so little society, there should be much in a provincial town;besides, this city has the pretension of being divided into _cliques_, andthere are "first people, " and "second-rate people, " and "families in ourset, " and so on; so that some of the ladies being musicians, one set willget up a concert, another a rival concert, and there not being a sufficientmusical society to fill two concerts, both fall to the ground. There is aneat little theatre, but at present no company. Some of the houses are ashandsome as any in Mexico, but there is no city which has fallen off somuch since the Independence as Morelia, according to the accounts given usby the most respectable persons. 

We had a visit from the bishop, Señor Portugal, one of the mostdistinguished men here, or in fact in the whole republic of Mexico, a manof great learning, gentle and amiable in his manners, and in his life amodel of virtue and holiness. He was in the cabinet when Santa Anna waspresident, concerning which circumstance an amusing story was told us, forthe correctness of which I do not vouch, but the narrator, a respectablecitizen here, certainly believed it. Señor Portugal had gone, byappointment, to see the president on some important business, and they hadbut just begun their consultation, when Santa Anna rose and left the room. The Minister waited--the president did not return. The time passed on, andstill the Minister continued expecting him, until at length he inquired ofan aide-de-camp in waiting, if he could inform him how soon the presidentmight be expected back. "I hardly know, " said the officer, "for hisexcellency has gone to visit _Cola de plata_" (silver tail). "And who may_Cola de plata_ be?" said the Minister. "A favourite cock of hisexcellency's, wounded this morning in a fight which he won, and to whosecare he is now personally attending!" The bishop soon after sent in hisresignation. 

Accompanied by several of our friends, including one of the canons of thecathedral, we visited that splendid building the second day of our arrival. It is still wonderfully rich, notwithstanding that silver to the amount ofthirty-two thousand marks has been taken from it during the civil wars. Thehigh altar is dazzling with gold and silver; the railing which leads fromit to the choir is of pure silver, with pillars of the same metal; the twopulpits, with their stairs, are also covered with silver; and the generalornaments, though numerous and rich, are disposed with good taste, are keptin order, and have nothing tawdry or loaded in their general effect. Thechoir itself is extremely beautiful; so also is the carved screen beforethe organ, the doors of the first being of solid silver, and those of theother of richly-carved wood. There is also an immense silver font, andsuperb lamps of silver. We particularly admired some fine paintings, chiefly by Cabrera, and especially a Madonna and child, in which there isthat most divine expression in the face of the Virgin, the blending ofmaternal love with awe for the divinity of the child. Four of thesepaintings, it is said, were sent here by a Spanish king, as far back asPhilip II. These four are colossal in size, and are finely painted, butlittle cared for or appreciated, and placed in a bad light. 

We were shown two saints, sent from Rome, loaded with false jewels, butcarefully preserved in their respective shrines. All the holy vessels andpriests' dresses and jewels were taken out for our inspection. Thesacramental _custodía_ cost thirty-two thousand dollars, and the richest ofthe dresses eight thousand. There is a lamb made of one pearl, the fleeceand head of silver; the pearl of great size and value. 

We toiled up through winding staircases to the belfry; and it required thebeautiful and extensive landscape spread out before us, to compensate usfor this most fatiguing ascent. The bells are of copper, and very sonorous. The _canonigo_ pointed out to us all the different sites which had been thescenes of bloody battles during the revolutionary war. The facilities forobtaining provisions, and the mountainous character of the country, areamongst the causes that have rendered this province the theatre of civilwar. The padre afterwards took us into a large apartment, a sort of office, hung round with the portraits of all the bishops of Michoacán; one bearingso striking a resemblance to our friend, Don Francisco Tagle, that we werenot surprised to find that it was in fact the portrait of one of hisfamily, who had occupied the episcopal see of Michoacán; and below it werethe Tagle arms, referring to some traditionary exploit of their ancestors. They represent a knight killing a serpent; and the motto is--"Tagle que laserpiente mato y con la Princesa caso" (Tagle who killed the serpent, andmarried the Princess). 

The same evening, we visited a lady who possesses a most singular andcurious collection of works in wax; and more extraordinary still, they areall her own workmanship. Every fruit and every vegetable production isrepresented by her with a fidelity, which makes it impossible todistinguish between her imitations and the works of nature. Plates withbread, radishes, and fish; dishes of fowls, and chile, and eggs; basketsfull of the most delicious-looking fruit; lettuces, beans, carrots, tomatoes, etc. ; all are copied with the most extraordinary exactness. Buther figures show much greater talent. There are groups for which an amateurmight offer any price, could she be prevailed upon to offer thesemasterpieces for sale. There is a Poblana peasant on horseback before aranchero, looking back at him with the most coquettish expression; herdress perfection, from the straw hat that half shades her features, to thebeautiful little ankle and foot in the white satin shoe, the shortembroidered petticoat, and the reboso thrown over one shoulder; a handsomeIndian, selling pulque and brandy in her little shop, with every variety ofliquor temptingly displayed in rows of shining bottles, to her customers;the grouping and colouring perfect, and the whole interior arrangement ofthe shop, imitated with the most perfect exactness. There is also a horridrepresentation, frightfully correct, of a dead body in a state ofcorruption, which it makes one sick to look at, and which it isinconceivable that any one can have had pleasure in executing. In short, there is scarcely anything in nature upon which her talent has notexercised itself. 

Yesterday we visited the _Seminario_, or college, a fine spacious oldbuilding, kept in good repair. The rector conducted us over the wholeestablishment. There is a small well chosen library, containing all themost classic works in Spanish, German, French, and English; and a largerlibrary, containing Greek and Latin authors, theological works, etc. , alarge hall, with chemical and other scientific apparatus, and a smallchapel where there is a beautiful piece of sculpture in wood: the _SanPedro_, by a young man, a native of Valladolid, so exquisitely wrought, that one cannot but regret that such a genius should be buried here, shouldnot at least have the advantage of some years' study in Italy, where hemight become a second Canova. 

One must visit these distant cities, and see these great establishments, tobe fully aware of all that the Spaniards bestowed upon their colonies, andalso to be convinced of the regret for former times which is felt amongstthe most distinguished men of the republic; in fact, by all who are oldenough to compare what has been with what is. 

I ought not to omit, in talking of the natural productions of Valladolid, to mention that it is famous for _fleas_. We had been alarmed by themiraculous stories related to us of these vivacious animals, and wererejoiced to find ourselves in a house, from which, by dint of extreme care, they are banished. But in the inns and inferior houses they are said to bea perfect pestilence, sometimes literally walking away with a piece ofmatting upon the floor, and covering the walls in myriads. The nuns, it issaid, are or were in the habit of harnessing them to little carriages, andof showing them off by other ingenious devices. 

We rode out in the evening to meet our friends from Uruapa, who wereexpected to arrive yesterday; I upon a very formidable and handsomecavalry-horse, rather above his work, which some expected to run away, andothers to throw me off, and which might have done both, but being a noblecreature did neither. We did not meet our friends, who, having been delayedon the road, only arrived this evening. We have therefore decided to remainhere till to-morrow afternoon, when we shall continue our journey homewardsby San Bartolo. 

LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST

San Bartolo--Mass--Market--Rancheros--San Andrés--Insanity--Rancho--Houseof Don Carlos Heimburger--Wild Scenery--German Songs--Las Millas--Leave-taking--Storm--Rainbow--El Pilar--La Gabia--Toluca--News--Copper_Pronunciamiento_----Return to Mexico--General Moran--Funeral Obsequies--New Theatre--_Cock's Mass_--Santa Clara--Santa Fe Prisoners--New Year. 

ANGANGUEO, 14th. 

After taking leave of all our hospitable friends in Morelia, we set off inthe afternoon, and had a delightful ride to San Bartolo. Fortunately thefollowing day (Sunday) was that of the Virgin of Guadalupe, one of thegreatest festivals here; so that we had an opportunity of seeing all thepeople from the different villages, who arrived in the courtyard bydaybreak, and held a market in front of the hacienda. Various were thearticles for sale, and picturesque the dresses of the sellers. From cakes, chile, atole, and ground-nuts, to rebosos and bead rosaries, nothing wasomitted. In one part of the market the sturdy rancheros were drinkingpulque and devouring hot cakes; in another, little boys were bargaining fornuts and bananas; countrywomen were offering low prices for smart rebosos;an Indian woman was recommending a comb, with every term of endearment, toa young country-girl, who seemed perfectly ignorant of its use, assuringher customer that it was an instrument for unravelling the hair, and makingit beautiful and shining, and enforcing her argument by combing throughsome of the girl's tangled locks. 

Before breakfast we went to mass in the large chapel of the hacienda. Weand the family went to the choir; and the body of the chapel was filledwith rancheros and their wives. It is impossible to see anywhere a finerrace of men than these rancheros--tall, strong, and well made, with theirembroidered shirts, coarse sarapes, and dark blue pantaloons embroidered ingold. After mass, the marketing recommenced, and the rebosos had a brisksale. A number were bought by the men for their wives, or _novias_, athome; which reminds me of a story of -----'s of a poor Indian woman intheir village, who desired her husband to buy a _petticoat_ for her inMexico, where he was going to sell his vegetables. She particularlyimpressed upon him that she wished it to be the _colour of the sky_, whichat sunrise, when he was setting off, was of a flaming red. He returned inthe evening, bringing, to her great indignation, a petticoat of a duskygray, which happened to be the colour of the sky when he made his purchase. 

In the evening we rode through the fields, the servants and the youngmaster of the house amusing themselves as they went, by the chasing and_colear_ of the bulls. They have one small, ugly, yellow-coloured bull, which they call tame, and which the _mozos_ ride familiarly. They persuadedme to try this novel species of riding, a man holding the animal's headwith a rope; but I thought that it tossed its horns in a most uncomfortableand alarming manner, and very soon slipped off. We stopped during our ride, at a house where the proprietors make a small fortune by the produce oftheir numerous beehives; and walked along the banks of a fine clear river, winding through beautiful and verdant groves. 

The next morning by six o'clock we were again on horseback, and took leaveof San Bartolo. We rode by _Yndaparapeo_, a considerable village, withsloping shingle roofs; and about ten reached Querendaro, breakfasted withSeñor Pimentel, and then continued our journey towards San Andrés, where wewere to pass the night. We had a horse with us which occasionally fell downon the road, shivering all over, groaning, and apparently dying; but whichhad twice recovered from these fits. But this day, having stopped beside arunning stream to water our horses, the unfortunate beast fell again, andwhen we had remounted, and were riding forward, a servant galloped afterus, to tell us that the horse was dead at last; so we left him to hislonely grave by the river's side. Great, therefore, was our amazement, when, some time after, we perceived him trotting along the road at a greatrate, in pursuit of his party, apparently quite recovered. 

We passed the night at San Andrés, a poor _venta_, but clean, consisting ofthree empty rooms, a spirit-shop, and a kitchen. Our escort slept in thepiazza, rolled in their sarapes. Our beds were stuck up in the empty rooms, and we got some supper upon fowl and tortillas. We were interested by themelancholy air of a poor woman, who sat aloof on the piazza, uncared for, and noticing no one. We spoke to her, and found that she was insane, wandering from village to village, and subsisting on charity. She seemedgentle and harmless, but the very picture of misery, and quite alone in theworld, having lost all her family. But "God tempers the wind to the shornlamb. " We saw her again in the morning before we set off, and saw her getsome breakfast in the kitchen. The poor people of the _venta_ seemed kindto her. They who dwell in comfortable houses, surrounded by troops offriends, and who repine at their lot, would do well to compare it with thatof such a being. 

This morning we left San Andrés, and have had a pleasant ride, in spite ofa hard-trotting horse, which fell to my lot. Impossible to conceive morebeautiful scenery than that which we passed through to-day. Some of thehills have a singular formation, each large hill appearing composed of avariety of smaller ones, of a pyramidal shape. We rode through Taximaroawithout stopping, and breakfasted at a rancho, where the whole family wereexceedingly handsome. The ranchero himself was a model for a fine-lookingfarmer, hospitable and well-bred; knowing his place, yet without anyservility. The rancherita, who was engaged in the kitchen, was so handsome, that we made every possible excuse for going to look at her. 

About four o'clock we once more crossed the hills and came down upon theplains by which we left Angangueo; and passed over a river as red as blood, that looked as if hostile armies had been engaged in fierce combat by itsbanks, and their bodies rolled in the tide. This ensanguined hue is, however, caused, not by warlike steel, but by peaceful copper; not peacefulin its effects, by the way, at this moment, for the whole country, more orless, is in commotion on the subject of copper coin. 

You must know, that some few years ago, the value of copper was suddenlyreduced by law to one half, causing a great loss to all, but much distressto the poor. The intrinsic value of the copper, however, bore so littlerelation to the value given to it, that it was a very productive businessto counterfeit it, of which many unprincipled individuals availedthemselves to such an extent, that it had almost become an openly exercisedbranch of industry all through the republic. When Santa Anna becameprovisional president, he ordered that all the copper coin, whose currencywas now reduced to six or eight per cent. Below par, should be given in tocertain deposits which he named, promising to repay it in genuine coin ofreal value. But this naturally caused a still greater depreciation, bringing it down as low as sixty per cent. ; and still greater discontent, the people having little faith in the promise, and, in fact, the paymentcould not be made at the appointed time, because there were not sufficientcoining machines; and as the few new cents that did circulate, were saidnot to contain their real value, the distress became greater than ever. Themerchants refused to receive copper, and there was no silver or smallchange. In the mean time, in many of the large haciendas, the proprietorshave given checks to the workmen, with which they have been able to buywhat they required at the shops, which are attached to these haciendas. 

The amount of the copper in circulation cannot be calculated, for it isalmost all counterfeit. It is supposed, however, to be at least from eightto nine millions of dollars. You may easily imagine the fortunes that willbe made (and as they say are being made) by those of the government party, who are buying up for sixty, what will be paid them by favour of thegovernment at the rate of a hundred. 

We rode up the hills that lead to the house of Don Carlos Heimbürger, andwere again hospitably received by him and his German friends. Nothing canhave a finer effect than the view from the piazza of his house in theevening, looking down upon the valley. The piazza itself has a screen ofgreen creepers, which have the effect of a curtain of a theatre half drawnup. Behind the house rises a dark frowning hill, in the form of a pyramid. In front is the deep ravine, with the huts of the workmen, and while themoon throws her quivering beams over the landscape, the metallic fires oflivid blue light up the valley. There is something wild and diabolic in thescene; and as the wind howls round the valley with a dismal sound, it seemsas if one were looking on at some unholy, magical incantation; so that itis pleasant to return after a while to the comfortable rooms and cheerfulfires within, which have so homely and domestic an air. We hope to spendto-morrow here, and the following day to go on to Toluca, from whence Ishall continue my letter. 

TOLUCA, 19th. 

The next day we visited the works, which are like all others, exceptingthat here they do not use quicksilver to extract the silver from the lead, but do so by the process of oxidation, by the means of a reverberatoryfurnace. The people generally have an unhealthy appearance, as nearly allhave who are engaged in these works--the air being loaded with particles ofmetal. After visiting the mills and the sheds where the process ofoxidation is carried on, and admiring the metallic riches of thesemountains, we left the hot and poisoned atmosphere, and walked up themountains clothed with a hardy vegetation--with every noble tree andflowering shrub--and pursued our course till we came to a fine waterfall, which plunges from a great height over the gigantic rocks. 

The scenery here is rude and wild. The great rocks are covered with hardytrees--the pine, the cedar, the oak, and the flowering laurel. The river, after dashing down in this noble cascade, runs brawling amongst theforest-clothed hills, till it reaches the plains, and flows on placidly. Wespent an agreeable day, wandering amongst the mountains; and when wereturned sat on the piazza, to watch the moon as her broad disk rose overthe valley, and the fierce blue lights that made her mild fires grow pale. 

All Germans are musical, and the gentlemen in this house did not belie thenational reputation. After dinner, a bright fire blazing, doors and windowsshutting out the cold air that whistled along the hills, they struck up inchorus some of the finest national airs, particularly the Hymn to theRhine--so that it seemed an illusion that we were in this wild, miningdistrict, inhabited only by the poorest Indians; and we were transportedthousands of miles off, across the broad Atlantic, even to the land where

 "The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o'er the broad and winding Rhine. "

We also amused ourselves by examining Madame B----'s Album; and if thosemilk-and-water volumes, belonging to young ladies, where young gentlemenwrite prettinesses, be called Albums, some other name should be found for abook where some of the most distinguished artists in Germany have leftproofs of their talent, and where there is not one page which does notcontain something striking and original. Nothing pleased me so much as thefanciful illustration of the beautiful legend of _Lorelei_, which MadameB---- read to us with great feeling. We became too comfortable here forhardy equestrian travellers, and had we staid much longer should have begunto complain of tough fowls, beds in barns, and other inconveniences, whichwe had hitherto laughed at; but we tore ourselves away from our Capua, andon the morning of the sixteenth set off for _El Pilar_. 

Don Carlos Heimburger, M. And Madame B----, etc. , accompanied us for sevenleagues, all through the woods. We had a delightful ride, the day was cooland cloudy, and we were besides, constantly shaded by the noble foresttrees. But we had not reached Las Millas before the sky was overcast, theclouds became black and gloomy, and at length broke out in rain. Wegalloped fast, for the day, besides being rainy, was cold; and in theafternoon reached Las Millas. Here we breakfasted in the little portico, which we preferred to the interior of the cottage, chiefly upon tortillasand boiled _tejocotes_, a fruit which grows in great abundance, andresembles a small apple. Here again were two Indian girls of admirablebeauty, _dans leur genre_, baking tortillas. We were now obliged to partfrom our kind German friends, and to ride across the plains. But had notgone more than halfway, when the clouds burst forth in torrents, pouringtheir fury on our devoted heads, so that in five minutes we were alldrenched as if we had fallen into a river. We took shelter for a littlewhile under a solitary spreading tree, but the storm increased in violence, and it was advisable to gallop forwards, in order to arrive at El Pilarbefore it became dark. Suddenly, the most beautiful rainbow I ever beheldsmiled out from amongst the watery clouds. It formed a complete andwell-defined arch of the most brilliant colours in the heavens, reflectedby another on the plains, which, uniting with it, blended its fainter hueswith the light of the heavenly bow. 

We arrived at El Pilar tired and drenched, and greatly in need of thehospitable reception which was given to us by its mistress. 

The following morning we set off early for _La Gabia_, feeling some regretthat our journey was drawing to a close. Some of us, who rode in front, found ourselves surrounded by several suspicious-looking, well-armed men onhorseback, who, under pretence of asking some questions, rode very close tous, and then stopped and faced round on their horses--but there was nodanger, our escort being at a short distance, and when they observed itsapproach, they bestowed no further attention upon us. Don XavierHechavarria had returned to Mexico, but we were cordially welcomed by hisbrother-in-law, Don Manuel Gorospe, and so kindly pressed to remain somedays, that nothing but our limited time would have induced us to set offnext morning for Toluca. Here we arrived last night, having performed ourjourney by a different and more agreeable road than that of the "threehundred barrancas. " We entered Toluca by moonlight, and found thatrespectable city all in commotion on the subject of copper; presenting avery different aspect from the quiet and conventual air of repose whichdistinguished it little more than a month ago. Yesterday Colonel Y----, whohas accompanied us during all this journey, left us, to return toMichoacán, having thus brought us back in safety to the point from which westarted. 

We are spending a very tiresome day in the inn, which, however, is a moredecent place, and belongs to a better line of coaches than the other. Wehave been enlivened by several visits, amongst others, from the commandant, and from an aide-de-camp of General Valencia's. For the first time since weleft it, we have news from Mexico. Santa Anna, _dit-on_, is now Dictator orKing, in all but the name; affecting more than royal pomp, yet endeavouringby his affability to render himself popular. Above all, he has made knownhis determination of not seizing an inch of ground belonging to the clergy;which seizure of church property was the favourite idea of Paredes and the_progresistas_. This resolution he has not printed, probably in order notto disgust that party, but his personal declaration to the archbishop andthe padres of the Profesa, and in a letter to the bishop of Puebla, is, that he will not only leave their property untouched, but that, were he outof power, he would draw his sword in their defence--for that, good or bad, he is a sincere Catholic. This has done much to re-establish him in thegood opinion of the clergy, and it is said that in every convent in Mexico, monks and nuns are now wearying Heaven with prayers in his behalf. Inshort, the conquerors and the conquered, those of the Progress, and thoseof the Dictatorship, seem all, barring a few noble exceptions, actuated byone motive; personal interest. 

Count C---a is restored to the command of his battalion _del Comercio_, which has been re-established (it having deserted to the federalists in thelast revolution). It appears that the president's favourite plan is to havethirty thousand men under arms; and there is little doubt that he willbring this about. Sixteen new generals have been created; and GeneralTornel is made a General of Division. The Señora V---a has given a ball, atwhich she and other ladies appeared with trains, rehearsing, as it wouldseem, before the court drawing-rooms. I was told, and by good authority, that the present sent by Santa Anna to the lady of the commander-in-chiefon her birth-day, was a box containing three general's belts, with arequest that she would bestow them on those whom she considered mostdeserving of them; and that the lady herself buckled the sashes on herfavoured knights, in her own boudoir. Thus was valour rewarded by the handof beauty; and

 "Thus should desert in arms be crowned. "

Meanwhile the master of the house presents himself with a disturbed andgloomy countenance, and doubts much whether we can have any dinner to-day, because no one will sell anything, either for copper or silver; moreoverhints darkly that they expect a _copper pronuniciamiento_ to-morrow; andobserves that the shops are shut up. 

Since we could get no dinner, we went out to take a walk; and methinks theTolucanos have a fierce and agitated aspect. We attempted to go to massthis morning, but there was a congregation of léperos, who filled not onlythe church, but the whole enclosure and the street beyond, so that we couldnot even approach the church door. Unfortunately we cannot get a diligenceuntil the 21st. 

They have brought us at last, I will not say dinner--but something to eat. 

20th. --This morning, the firing of squibs, the beating of drums, theshouting and confusion on the streets, announced that the ragamuffinpopulation of Toluca had turned out; and going to the balcony, I verynearly received the salutation of

 "A sky-Rocket in my eye. "

Orders have been given out by the alcalde, that copper shall be received inpayment by the merchants, some of whom have declared they will only receivesilver. A large mob has collected before the alcalde's door, with shouts of"Viva la plata! Muerta al cobre!" (Long live silver! Death to copper!)--apostrophizing these useful metals, as if they were two generals. 

The merchants have issued a declaration, that during three days only, theywill sell their goods for copper (of course at an immense advantage tothemselves). The Indians and the poorer classes are now rushing to theshops, and buying goods, receiving in return for their copper about halfits value. If Santa Anna keeps his word, the _patriotism_ of the merchantswill be rewarded. 

C---n has just had a visit from one of the merchants, who wishes hisconduct to be represented in a proper light in Mexico. 

MEXICO, 22nd. 

With much joy we stepped into the diligence early yesterday morning, accompanied by the commandant of Toluca, and retraced our road to Mexico;for though Toluca is a fine city, with clean, airy houses, wide, well-paved streets, and picturesque in its situation, there is somethingsad and deserted in its appearance, an air of stagnation that weighs uponthe spirits; and the specimens we have seen of its lower orders are notinviting. We had rather an agreeable journey, as the day was cool, and wehad the diligence to ourselves. We breakfasted again at Cuajimalpa, tookleave of the interesting _itzcuin tepotzotli_, still hanging from itshook--and again ascended the eminence from which Mexico suddenly burstsupon the view, and after a short absence, with all the charms of novelty. Before we arrived at Tacubaya, we were met by a carriage containing SeñorA---- and his lady, who insisted on our leaving the diligence; and carriedus off to their own house, where we now are. On the second of January weexpect to take our final departure from the "great city of the lake. "

December 28th. --Another old year about to chime in! Another Christmas pastaway! But during these last few days it has been all in vain to attemptfinishing my letter, between making arrangements for our journey, receivingand returning visits, going to the opera, and seeing and revisiting allthat we had left unseen or wished to see again before leaving this. Peopleseem determined that we shall regret them, and load us with kindness andattentions, the more flattering, that now at least they are entirelypersonal, and cannot proceed from any interested motive. We have reason tothink them both steady and sincere in their friendship. 

General Moran has died, universally regretted. He has been embalmedaccording to the system of _Ganal_, and his funeral was performed withextraordinary magnificence, the troops out, the foreign Ministers and thecabinet following on foot, the former in full uniform, and a great train ofcarriages reaching along the whole Calle San Francisco, from the church tothe square. The body, dressed in a general's uniform, was carried upon asplendid bier, and was so perfectly embalmed, that he seemed not dead, noreven asleep, but lying in an attitude of repose. The expense of thisoperation will probably prevent its ever becoming very common; andcertainly there are but few cases where it can be advisable to adopt it. An_embalmed dynasty_ might be a curious sight. To trace the features of aroyal line, from Charlemagne to Charles X. --from Alfred to William IV. , would be a strange study. Mary of Scotland and Elizabeth, lying in therepose of death, yet looking as they lived and hated centuries back, mightbe a curious piece of antiquity. A Hernan Cortes--a Washington--a Columbus--a Napoleon; men, whose memory for good or for evil, will survive time andchange--it would be a strange and wondrous thing, if we could look on theirfeatures as they were in life. But it is to be trusted that this method ofsuccessfully wrestling with the earth for what it claims as its due, willnot generally prevail; or, at the end of a few centuries, the embalmedpopulation would scarce leave room for their living and breathingdescendants: nor is it an agreeable idea that one might, in a lapse ofages, grace the study of an antiquary, or be preserved amongst thecuriosities of a museum. I would stuff birds and beasts, and preserve themin cabinets, but not the remains of immortal man. _Dust unto dust_; and theeye of faith turned from the perishing remains to the spirit which has goneto the God who gave it. 

The _función_ performed in the general's honour, within the church, was asmagnificent as ecclesiastic and military splendour could render it. We werein the gallery above. The bier, placed on a lofty scaffolding, covered withblack velvet and lighted with wax tapers, was placed near the altar. Themusic was solemn and impressive. Every respect has been shown to thedeceased general, by Santa Anna's orders. Excepting the _corpsdiplomatique_ and the officers, all within the church were in deepmourning. . . . 

The chief difficulty we have in arranging our affairs here, consists in theperfect impossibility of persuading any tradesman to keep his word. Theyname the day, the hour, the minute, at which they are to be with you, or atwhich certain goods are to be sent to you. They are affronted if you doubttheir punctuality, and the probability is, you never hear of them or theirgoods again. If they are not exact for their own interest, they will not beso for yours; and although we have had frequent proofs of thiscarelessness, we are particularly annoyed by it now that we are within afew days of our departure. During our residence here we have had little todo with shops and shopkeepers, having found it more convenient andeconomical to send to Paris or even to the United States for all articlesof dress. Now, though everything must still be comparatively dear, the _badtimes_ have caused a great reduction in prices; and dear as all goods are, they would be still dearer, were it not for the quantity that is smuggledinto the republic. There are an amazing number of French shopkeepers;French tailors, hatters, shoemakers, apothecaries, etc. ; but especiallyFrench modistes and perruquiers. The charges of the former are exorbitant, the latter are little employed except by gentlemen. There are also manySpanish shops, some German, and a few English; but I think the Frenchpreponderate. 

We went some time ago to see the _Monte Pio_, which is under the auspicesof Señor Tagle; and it is melancholy enough to see the profusion of finediamonds and pearls that are displayed in these large halls. After acertain time has elapsed without their being redeemed, the pledged articlesare sold; gold and silver, in whatever form, by the weight, but jewels fortheir intrinsic value. There is a sale once a week. We were shown privatelythe jewels of the Virgen de los Remedios; which are very superb. 

There is a small theatre lately established, called the Theatre of _NewMexico_, where there is a Spanish company, the same whom we saw two yearsago in Vera Cruz. They are drawing away various persons from the principaltheatre. Their object seems to be to make people laugh, and they succeed. On Christmas-eve we went there to see the _gracioso_ (harlequin) in awoman's dress, dance _Tripili_, an old Spanish dance, accompanied withsinging. They introduced some appropriate lines concerning the latetroubles about the _copper_, which were received with great applause. Justas they were concluding the Tripili, a young gentleman in the pit, I do notknow whether Mexican or Spanish, rose, and waving his hand after the mannerof a man about to make an address, and requesting attention, kindlyfavoured the audience with some verses of his own, which were received withgreat good-nature; the actors bowing to him, and the pit applauding him. Itseemed to me a curious piece of philanthropy on his part. 

At midnight we went to the church of Santa Clara, to attend what is calledthe _Misa del Gallo_, the Cock's Mass; which is private, --only respectablepersons being admitted by a private entrance; for midnight mass in Mexicotakes place with shut doors, as all nightly reunions are dreaded. SantaClara being attached to the convent of that name, we remained after mass tosee the white-robed sisters receive the sacrament from the hands of apriest, by the small side-door that opens from the convent to the church. The church was lighted, but the convent was in darkness; and looking inthrough the grating, we could only distinguish the outline of theirkneeling figures, enveloped in their white drapery and black veils. I donot think there were a dozen persons in the church besides ourselves. 

A good deal of interest has been excited here lately about the Texianprisoners taken in the Santa Fe expedition, the first detachment of whomhave arrived, after a march of nearly two thousand miles, and are nowlodged in the convent of Santiago, about two miles from the centre of thecity. As their situation is represented to be very miserable, and as it issaid that they have been stripped of their hats, shoes, and coats; some ofthe Mexican families, and amongst others, that of Don Francisco Tagle, regardless of political enmity, have subscribed to send them a supply oflinen and other necessary articles, which they carried out therethemselves. Being invited to accompany them to Santiago, I did so; and wefound the common men occupying the courtyard, and the officers the largehall of the convent. So far they have been treated as prisoners of wargenerally are; but it is said to be the intention of Santa Anna to havethem put in chains, and sent out to sweep the streets, with the miserableprisoners of the Acordada. Colonel C----, who was presented to me, seemedto treat the whole affair very lightly, as the fortune of war; and hadevidently no idea that any such fate was in store for them; seeming ratheramused by the dress of the monks, whom he now saw for the first time. Inthe Mexicans generally, there seems very little if any vindictive feelingagainst them; on the contrary, a good deal of interest in their favour, mingled with some curiosity to see them. The common men appeared moreimpatient and more out of spirits than the officers. We shall probably knownothing more of their fate, before leaving Mexico. 

We had some intention of paying a last visit to the Museum before we went;and Don José María Bustamante, a friend of ours, professor of botany, andconsidered a man of learning, was prepared to receive us; but we wereprevented from going. I must, however, find time to answer your question asto the population. The Mexican republic is supposed to contain upwards ofseven millions of inhabitants; the capital, two hundred thousand. Theirnumber cannot be exactly fixed, as there has been no general census forsome time; a labour in which a commission, with Count Cortina at its head, has been employed for some time past, and the result of which will bepublished shortly. All other questions must be replied to _de vive voix_. 

I must now conclude my last letter written from this place; for we aresurrounded by visitors, day and night; and, to say the truth, feel that itis only the prospect of returning to our family, which can counterbalancethe unfeigned regret we feel at leaving our friends in Mexico. My nextletter will most probably be dated from Vera Cruz. 

LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND

Last Day in Mexico--Theatre--Santa Anna--FrenchMinister's--Parting--Diligence--Last Look ofMexico--Fatigue--Robbers--Escort--Second Impressions--Baths atJalapa--Vera Cruz--Some Account of San Juan de Ulua--Siege of 1825--Siegeof 1838--General Bustamante--Theatre--Of the North Winds. 

VERA CRUZ, 6th January, 1842. 

Having concluded our arrangements for leaving Mexico on the 2nd of January, we determined, as the diligence started long before daybreak, not toattempt taking any rest that night. We went out early, and took leave ofthe Dowager Marquésa de Vivanco, who was confined to the house by illness, and whose kindness to us has been unremitting ever since our arrival. It isa sad thing to take leave of a person of her age, and in her delicate stateof health, whom there is scarcely a possibility of our ever seeing again. Some days before we parted also from one of our oldest friends here, theCountess C---a. The last day, besides the Spaniards who have been ourconstant friends and visitors ever since we came here, we had melancholyvisits of adieu from Señor Gomez Padraza and his lady, from the families ofEchavarri, of Fagoaga, Cortina, Escandon, Casaflores, and many whose namesare unknown to you. Amongst others was the Güera Rodriguez. About eighto'clock, accompanied even to the door of the carriage by a number of ladieswho were with us to the last, and amongst these were P---a C---a and L---zE---n, we broke short all these sad partings, and, with the A---s and thefamily of the French Minister, set off for the theatre of New Mexico. I canimagine your surprise at such a _finale, _ but it was the only means left usof finishing a painful scene, and of beguiling the weary hours yetremaining before the diligence started, for it was in vain to think of restor sleep that night. The theatre was very crowded, the play an amusingpiece of _diablerie_, called the "_Pata de Cabra_" (the goat's foot), badlygot up, of course, as its effect depends upon scenery and machinery. Ibelieve it was very entertaining, but I cannot say we felt inclined toenter into the spirit of it. The family of General V---a were there, and, this being the day of a great diplomatic dinner given by Santa Anna, various officers and diplomates came in late and in full dress. I wasinformed by one of the company, that six colonels stood the whole time ofdinner behind his Excellency's chair! I wonder what French officer would doas much for Louis Philippe! _Vogue la galere!_ From the theatre, whichconcluded about one, we drove to the house of the ----- Minister, where wespent a very grave half-hour, and then returned home with a very splendid_brioche_, of generous proportions, which Madame la Baronne de ----- hadkindly prepared for our journey. 

Arrived at the A----'s, we sat down to supper, and never was there a saddermeal than this, when for the last time we sat at the hospitable board ofthese our earliest and latest Mexican friends. We were thankful when it wasall over and we had taken leave, and when, accompanied to the inn by SeñorA---d and other gentlemen, we found ourselves fairly lodged in thediligence, on a dark and rather cold morning, sad, sleepy, and shivering. All Mexico was asleep when we drove out of the gates. The very housesseemed sunk in slumber. So terminated our last _Mexican New Year's Day_. 

When we reached the eminence, from which is the last view of the valley, the first dawn of day was just breaking over the distant city; the whitesummits of the volcanoes were still enveloped in mist, and the lake wasveiled by low clouds of vapour, that rose slowly from its surface. And thiswas our last glimpse of Mexico!

The diligence is now on a new and most fatiguing plan of travelling nightand day, after leaving Puebla; so that, starting from Mexico at fouro'clock on the morning of the 2nd of January, it arrives in Vera Cruz earlyon the morning of the 5th, saving a few hours, and nearly killing thetravellers. The government had granted us escorts for the whole journey, now more than ever necessary. It was five in the afternoon when we reachedPuebla, and we set off again by dawn the next morning. 

We had just left the gates, and our escort, which had rode forward, wasconcealed by some rising ground, when, by the faint light, we perceivedsome half-dozen mounted cavaliers making stealthily up to us across thefields. Their approach was first discerned by a Spanish lady who was withus, and who was travelling with strings of pearl and valuable diamondsconcealed about her person, which made her peculiarly sharp-sighted on theoccasion. "_Ladrones!_" said she, and every one repeated "_Ladrones!_" indifferent intonations. They rode across the fields, came up pretty close tothe diligence, and reconnoitred us. I was too sleepy to be frightened, andreconnoitred them in return with only one eye open. The coachman whipped uphis horses, the escort came in sight, and the gentlemen struck into thefields again. The whole passed in a minute or two. The soldiers of theescort came riding back to the diligence; and the captain, galloping up tothe window, gave himself great credit for having "frightened away therobbers. "

We arrived at Perote when it was nearly dusk, supped, and started again ateleven o'clock at night. We passed a horrible night in the diligence, andwere thankful when daybreak showed us the beautiful environs of Jalapa. Itis singular that on a second impression, returning by this road, the housesappear handsomer than they did before, and nature less beautiful. Iconclude that this is to be accounted for simply from the circumstance ofthe eye having become accustomed both to the works of nature and of man, which characterize this country. The houses, which at first appearedgloomy, large, and comfortless, habit has reconciled us to, and experiencehas taught us that they are precisely suited to this climate of perpetualspring. The landscape, with its eternal flowers and verdure, no longerastonishes and bewilders us, as when we first arrived from a country where, at that season, all nature lies buried in snow. Besides, in our lastjourney through Michoacán, we have passed among scenes even more strikingand beautiful than these. Then the dresses, which at first appeared soromantic; the high, Moorish-looking-saddle, the gold-embroidered manga, thelarge hat, shading the swarthy faces of the men, the coloured petticoat andreboso, and long black hair of the women, though still picturesque, have nolonger the charm of novelty, and do not attract our attention. The winteralso has been unusually severe for Mexico, and some slight frosts havecaused the flowers of this natural garden to fade; and, besides all this, we were tired and sleepy and jolted, and knew that we had but an hour ortwo to remain, and had another day and night of purgatory in prospect. . . . 

Still, as we passed along the shady lanes, amongst the dark chirimoyas, thegreen-leaved bananas, and all the variety of beautiful trees, intwined withtheir graceful creepers, we were forced to confess that winter has littlepower over these fertile regions, and that in spite of the leveller, _Habit_, such a landscape can never be passed through with indifference. 

Arrived at Jalapa, we refreshed ourselves with the luxury of a bath, havingto pass through half the city before we reached the bathing establishment, from which there is the most beautiful view of wood, water, and mountainthat it is possible to behold. The baths are the property of a lady who hasa cotton factory and a good house in the city, and fortunate she is inpossessing a sufficient portion of worldly goods; since, as she informedus, she is the mother of twenty children! She herself, in appearance, waslittle more than thirty. We then returned to breakfast, and shortly afterleft Jalapa. 

I will not inflict upon you a second description of the same journey; ofPlan del Rio, with its clear river and little inn--of Puerto del Rey, withits solid majestic bridge thrown over the deep ravine, through which rushesthe impetuous river Antigua--or of how we were jolted over the road leadingto Paso de Oveja, etc. Suffice it to say, that we passed a night, whichbetween suffocating heat, horrible jolting, and extreme fatigue, was nearlyintolerable. Stopping to change horses at Santa Fe, we saw, by the light ofthe torches which they brought to the door, that we were once more amongbamboo-huts and palm trees. Towards morning we heard the welcome sound ofthe waves, giving us joyful token that our journey was drawing to a close;yet when we entered Vera Cruz and got out of the diligence, we felt likeprisoners who have been so long confined in a dungeon, they are incapableof enjoying their liberty, we were so thoroughly worn out and exhausted. How different from the agreeable kind of fatigue which we used to feelafter a long day's journey on horseback!

Breakfast, and a fresh toilet had, however, their due influence. We were inan hotel, and had hardly breakfasted when our friend, Don Dionisio Velasco, with some other gentlemen, arrived, and kindly reproaching us forpreferring an inn to his house, carried us and our luggage off to his fineairy dwelling, where we now are, and where a good night's rest has made usforget all our fatigues. 

As we must remain here for one or two days, we shall have time to see alittle more of the city; and already, upon a second survey, sad anddilapidated as it now appears, I can more readily imagine what it must havebeen in former days, before it was visited by the scourge of civil war. Theexperience of two Mexican revolutions, makes it more easy for us toconceive the extent to which this unfortunate city must have suffered inthe struggle made by the Spaniards, to preserve the castle, their lastbulwark in this hemisphere. San Juan de Ulua, in spite of the miserablecondition in which it now is, remains a lasting memorial of the great workswhich, almost immediately after their arrival on these shores, wereundertaken by the Spanish conquerors. 

In 1682, sixty-one years after they had set foot on Aztec soil, they beganthis fortress, in order to confirm their power. The centre of the spacewhich it occupies is a small island, where the Spaniard, Juan de Grijalvaarrived, one year before Cortes reached the Mexican continent. Having foundthe remains of two human victims there, they asked the natives why theysacrificed men to their idols, and receiving for answer that it was byorders of the kings of _Acolhua_, the Spaniards gave the island the name ofUlua, by a natural corruption of that word. 

It is pretended that the fortress cost four millions; and though thisimmense sum is no doubt an exaggeration, the expense must have been verygreat, when we consider that its foundations are below the water, and thatfor nearly three centuries it has resisted all the force of the stormywaves that continually beat against it. Many improvements and additions aregradually made to the castle; and, in the time of the viceroys, afirst-rate engineer paid it an annual visit, to ascertain its condition, and to consider its best mode of defence, in case of an attack. In 1806, however, Vera Cruz was sacked by the English corsair, Nicholas Agramont, incited by one Lorencillo, who had been condemned to death for murder inVera Cruz, and had escaped to Jamaica. Seven millions of dollars werecarried off, besides three hundred persons of both sexes, whom the piratesabandoned on the Island of Sacrificios, when they re-embarked. 

In 1771 the viceroy, then the Marquis de la Croix, remitted a million and ahalf of dollars to the governor, in order that he might put the castle in astate of defence; and the strong bulwarks which still remain, attest thelabour that has been bestowed upon it. The outer polygon, which lookstowards Vera Cruz, is three hundred yards in extent; to the north it isdefended by another of two hundred yards; whilst a low battery is situatedas a rear-guard in the bastion of Santiago; and on the opposite front isthe battery of San Miguel. The whole fortress is composed of a stone whichabounds in the neighbouring island, a species of coral, excellent forbuilding, _piedra mucara_. 

In 1822 no stronghold of Spanish power remained but this castle, whosegarrison was frequently reinforced by troops from Havana. Vera Cruz itselfwas then inhabited by wealthy and influential Spaniards. Santa Anna thencommanded in the province, under the orders of Echavarri, the captain-general, and with instructions from Yturbide, relative to the taking of thecastle. The commandant was the Spanish General Don José Davila. It was not, however, till the following year, when Lemaur succeeded Davila in thecommand of the citadel, that hostilities were begun by bombarding VeraCruz. 

Men, women, and children then abandoned the city. The merchants went toAlvarado, twelve leagues off, whilst those who were driven from theirhouses by a shower of balls, sought a miserable asylum amongst the burningplains and miserable huts in the environs. Some made their way to Jalapa, thirty leagues off; others to Cordova and Orizava, equally distant. Withsome interruptions, hostilities lasted two years, during which there wasnearly a constant firing from the city to the castle, and from the castleto the city. 

The object of General Barragan, now commander-in-chief, was to cut off allcommunication between the garrison of the castle and the coasts, and toreduce them to live solely upon salt provisions, fatal in this warm andunhealthy country. In 1824 the garrison, diminished to a mere handful, wasreplaced by five hundred men from the peninsula; and very soon thesesoldiers, shut up on the barren rocks, surrounded by water, and exposed tothe dangers of the climate, without provisions and without assistance, werereduced to the most miserable condition. The next year, Don José Copingersucceeded Lemaur, and continued hostilities with fresh vigour. 

This brave general, with his valiant troops, surrounded by the sick and thedying, provisions growing scarcer every day, and those that remainedcorrupt and unfit to eat, yet resolved to do his duty, and hold out to thelast. No assistance arrived from Spain. A Mexican fleet was stationed offthe Island of Sacrificios and other points, to attack any squadron thatmight come from thence; while the north winds blew with violence, keepingback all ships that might approach the coasts. "Gods and men, " says afurious republican (Zavala), "the Spaniards had to contend with; havingagainst them, hunger, sickness, the fire and balls of the enemies, afurious sea covered with reefs, a burning atmosphere, and above all, beingtotally ignorant as to whether they should receive any assistance. "

The Minister of the treasury, Esteva, then came from Mexico, and proposed acapitulation; and the Spanish general agreed that should no assistancearrive within a certain time, he would give up the fortress; evacuating itwith his whole garrison, and with the suitable honours. The Spanishsuccours arrived a few days before the term was expired, but the commanderof the squadron, seeing the superiority in point of numbers of the Mexicanfleet, judged it prudent to return to Havana to augment his forces. But itwas too late. On the fifteenth of September, the brave General Copinger, with the few troops that remained to him, marched out of the fortress, terminating the final struggle against the progress of revolution, butupholding to the last the character for constancy and valour whichdistinguished the sons of ancient Spain. 

Of its last assault by the French squadron in 1838, there is no need to sayanything. Every newspaper, as you will remember, gave an account of thecapitulation of what the French gazettes called "San Juan de Ulua, the St. Jean d'Acre of the new world, which our mariners saluted as the Queen ofthe Seas, _vierge sans tache_, " etc. 

6th. --We have just had a visit from General Bustamante, who, with hisaide-de-camp, a son of General Calderon (formerly governor of Jalapa), intends shortly to sail in the Jason for Havana. We have also had a visitfrom the commander of that vessel, Captain Puente, who succeeded our friendCaptain E---a; and who has been kindly endeavouring to make arrangementsfor taking us also, not having before been aware of our intentions ofleaving Vera Cruz at this period. But although we should have much pleasurein returning by the vessel that brought us, we fear that, without puttingthe officers to great inconvenience, it will be impossible for them toaccommodate so many, for we know the _carte du pays_. 

It is therefore probable that we shall go by the English packet, whichsails on the eighth, but unfortunately goes round by Tampico, not veryagreeable at this season. 

We went to mass this morning, which was said to be particularly crowded inconsequence of the general desire to catch a glimpse of theex-president. . . . 

I find, personally, one important change in taste if not in opinion. VeraCruz cookery, which two years ago I thought detestable, now appears to medelicious! What excellent fish! and what incomparable _frijoles!_ Well, this is a trifle; but after all, in trifles as in matters of moment, hownecessary for a traveller to compare his judgments at different periods, and to correct them! First impressions are of great importance, if givenonly as such; but if laid down as decided opinions, how apt they are to beerroneous! It is like judging of individuals by their physiognomy andmanners, without having had time to study their character. We all do somore or less, but how frequently we find ourselves deceived!

7th. --We went to the theatre last evening. In the boxes there were only alady and gentleman, besides our party. The pit, however, was full; butthere are no good actors at present. We have been walking about to-day, notwithstanding the heat, purchasing some necessary articles from Frenchmodistes and French perfumers, most of whom, having got over the fever, arenow very well satisfied to remain here and make their fortune. Weafterwards walked down to the Mole, and saw the pleasantest sight that hasmet our eyes since we left Mexico--the sea covered with ships. It wasrefreshing to look again on the dark blue waves, after so long an absencefrom them. Commodore -----, of Mexico, who was present, pointed out theJason, and the Tyrian, Captain Griffin, lying out in the harbour, andstrongly recommended us to go in the latter, as did the English consul, with proper patriotism. We have requested him to take our berths, when hegoes to visit the captain on board this evening. . . . 

No sooner has this been done beyond recall, than we find that comfortablearrangements have been made for taking us in the Jason, which goes directto Havana. It is now too late, so we can only regret our precipitation. There is another beautiful Spanish vessel just arrived, the _Liberal_, Captain Rubalcava, who, with Captain Puente, of the Jason, has been to seeus this evening. If the wind holds fair, the packet sails to-morrow; butthe experienced predict a norther. 

The symptoms of this terrible wind, which blows in the Mexican Gulf, fromthe autumnal to the vernal equinox, are known not only to the sailors, butto all those who have lived some time in this city. The variation in thebarometer is the surest sign. A land breeze from the north-west first blowsgently, then varies to the north-east, then changes to the south. The heatis then suffocating and the summits of all the great mountains appearcloudless and distinct against the deep blue sky, while round their baseflows a veil of semi-transparent vapour. 

Suddenly the tempest bursts forth; and all are instantaneously relieved-allbut the poor mariners! The air becomes refreshed-clouds of dust comesweeping along the streets, driving away, as it were, the pestilentialatmosphere. Then there is no fever in Vera Cruz. 

All communication is cut off between the castle and the city, and betweenthe city and all foreign shipping. Sometimes the norther lasts three orfour days, sometimes even twelve. If it turns to a southerly breeze, thetempest generally returns; if it changes to the east or north-east, thebreeze generally lasts three or four days, and the ships in the port takeadvantage of the intervals to escape, and gain the high seas. These galesare particularly dreaded off the coasts of Tampico. 

8th. --We sail in a few hours, the _norte_ not having made its appearance, so that we expect to get clear of the coast before it begins. The Jasonsails in a day or two, unless prevented by the gale. We only knew thismorning that it was necessary to provide mattresses and sheets, etc. , forour berths on board the packet. Fortunately, all these articles are foundready made in this seaport town. We have just received a packet of letters, particularly acceptable as bringing us news of home before our departure. Ihave also received two agreeable _compagnons de voyage_ in the shape ofbooks; Stephen's "Central America, " and Washington Irving's "Life ofMargaret Davison, " opportunely sent me by Mr. Prescott. . . . 

Our next letters will be written either at sea, or from Tampico. 

LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD

Sail in the Tyrian--Norther off Tampico--The Bar--The River Panuco--ThePilot--The Shore--Alligator--"_Paso de Doña Cecilia_"--Tampico--SpanishConsul's House--Society--Navigation--Banks of the Panuco--ExtraordinaryInoculation--The "_Glorieta_"--Leave Tampico--Furious Norther--Voyage--Arrival at Havana. 

ON BOARD H. B. M. PACKET TYRIAN, 15th. 

On the 8th, having taken leave of the family of our friend, Señor Velasco, and of General Bustamante, whom we hope to see again in Havana, we went outin a little boat, accompanied as far as the packet by several gentlemen, and in a short time were standing on deck, looking our last at Vera Cruzand its sandbanks, and sopilotes, and frowning castle, as the shoresgradually receded from our view, while the Tyrian was making the best ofher time to get clear of reefs and rocks, before the arrival of thenorther. We regretted to find, that instead of being one of the new line ofEnglish packets, the Tyrian was the last of the old line; small, ancient, and incommodious, and destined to be paid off on her return to England. Captain Griffin, the commander, who looks like an excellent, gentlemanlyman, is in wretched health, and in a state of acute suffering. There wereno passengers but ourselves, and a young Mexican, guiltless of anyacquaintance with salt water, up to this date. 

The very next morning out burst the norther, and with loud howling sweptover the ocean, which rose and tossed to meet the coming storm. Surely nowind ever had a voice so wildly mournful. How the good ship rolled, andgroaned, and creaked, and strained her old timber joints! What rocking, thumping, falling, banging of heads at the low entry of the cabin! Waterfalling into berths, people rolling out of them. What fierce music atnight, as the wind, like a funeral dirge, swept over the ocean, the rainfalling in torrents, and the sky covered with one dark, lugubrious pall!And how lonely our ship seemed on the world of waters!

But the next day, the storm waxed fiercer still, and the night was worsethan the day. The waves that dashed over the deck made their way into thecabin. At one time, we thought the ship had struck, and even the captainbelieved that a mast had fallen. It was only a huge wave that broke overthe deck with a sound like thunder, drowning the wretched hens and ducks, who little thought, when they left their comfortable English poultry-yard, they were destined to be drowned off Tampico--and drenching the men. Ourlittle lamp, after swinging to and fro for some time went out, and left thecabin in darkness. Impossible to sleep of course, and for the _first time_at sea, I confess to having felt afraid. Each time that the ship rolledupon her side on the slope of a huge billow, it seemed impossible that shecould ever right again, or that she could avoid receiving the wholecontents of the next great watery mountain that came roaring on. 

On the morning of the eleventh there was still no abatement of the storm. All was dark and dreary. The norther continued to blow with unrelentingfierceness, and the ship to rock and roll amongst a tumult of foamingbillows. The nights in this pitch darkness seemed interminable. The berthsbeing constantly filled with water, we dragged our mattresses on the floor, and lay there wishing for the dawn. But the dawn brought no relief. Thewind howled on like a fierce wild beast roaring for its prey. I had made myway every day upstairs, and by dint of holding on, and with a chair tiedwith strong ropes, had contrived to sit on deck. But this day I retreatedunder cover behind the helmsman, when, lo! a large wave burst over theship, found me out in my retreat, and nearly throwing down several stoutsailors in its way, gave me the most complete salt-water bath I have hadsince I left New York. All that night we were tossed about in storm anddarkness. 

On the thirteenth the wailing of the norther grew fainter, and towardsnight died away. On the fourteenth it veered round, and the coast ofTamaulipis appeared in sight faintly. 

This morning opened with a slight norther; nevertheless they have hung outthe packet flag and cast anchor, in expectation of the pilot boat. Meanwhile, all is at a stand-still, _morally_ speaking, for we are rollingso that it is scarce possible to write comprehensibly. We see thesad-looking shores of Tampico, long, low, and sandy, though to the southstretching out into gloomy, faintly-seen woods. We can distinguish thedistant yellow sand and the white surf breaking furiously over the bar. Theday is gloomy but not cold. A slight rain accompanies the light north wind. Sea-gulls are flying in circles round the ship and skimming the surface ofthe waves. The master looks impatient and anxious, and prognosticatesanother week of northers. Vessels, they say, have been detained here thirtydays, and some even three months! No notice is taken of our signal--a signthat the bar is impassable. 

16th. --The ship has rolled and pitched all night, and to-day we remain inthe same predicament. 

TAMPICO, 18th. 

Yesterday morning the wind was much lighter, and a pilot-boat came outearly, in which the captain set off with his despatches; and we beingassured that we might cross the ominous bar in safety, hired a boat forforty dollars, with ten sailors and a pilot, too glad at the prospect oftouching the solid earth even for one day. Having got into this boat, andbeing rowed out to the bar, we found that there the sea was very high, eventhough the day was calm. The numerous wrecks that have taken place herehave given this bar a decidedly bad reputation. Great precaution isnecessary in crossing it, constant sounding, and calm weather. It is formedby a line of sandhills under the water, whose northern point crosses thatto the southward, and across which there is a passage, whose positionvaries with the shifting sands, so that the pilots are chiefly guided bythe surf. 

Perched upon a sandbank was a regiment of enormous white pelicans ofthoughtful and sage-like physiognomy, ranged in a row, as if to watch howwe passed the bar. Over many a drowning crew they have screamed their wildsea dirge, and flapped their great white wings. But we crossed in safety, and in a few minutes more the sea and the bar were behind us, and we wererowing up the wide and placid river Panuco--an agreeable change. We stoppedat the house of the _commandant_, a large, tall individual, who marched outand addressed us in English, and proved to be a native of the UnitedStates. 

We stopped at a collection of huts, to let our sailors breakfast, wherethere is the house of a celebrated character, Don Leonardo Mata, a colossalold pilot, but who was from home at present. We amused ourselves bywandering along the beach of the river and making a collection of beautifulshells, which we left at the old pilot's house, to be kept there till ourreturn. A sort of garden, attached to the house, is appropriatelyornamented with the figure-head and anchor from a wreck. We got into ourboat again and glided along the shores, on one side low and marshy, withgreat trees lying in the water; on the other also low, but thickly woodedand with valuable timber, such as logwood and ebony, together with cedars, India-rubber trees, limes, lemons, etc. On the bare trunk of a great tree, half-buried in the water, sat an amiable-looking alligator, its jawsdistended in a sweet, unconscious grin, as if it were catching flies, andnot deigning to notice us, though we passed close to it. A canoe with anIndian woman in it, was paddling about at a very little distance. All thesebeautiful woods to the right contain a host of venomous reptiles, particularly the rattlesnake. Cranes and herons were fluttering across thesurface of the river, and the sportsmen brave the danger of the reptiles, for the sake of shooting these and the beautiful rose-coloured spoonbillsand pheasants that abound there. 

The approach from Tampico is very pretty, and about two miles from it onthe wooded shore, in a little verdant clearing, is a beautiful_ranchito_--a small farmhouse, white and clean, with a pretty piazza. Inthis farm they keep cows and sell milk, and it looks the very picture ofrural comfort, which always comes with double charm when one has beenaccustomed to the sight of the foaming surges and the discomforts of atempest-tossed ship. The sailors called it "El Paso" (the pass) "de DoñaCecilia;" which sounded delightfully romantic. The proprietress, this DoñaCecilia, who lives in such peaceful solitude, surrounded by mangroves, withno other drawbacks to her felicity but snakes and alligators, haunted myimagination. I trusted she was young, and lovely, and heart-broken; apensive lay nun who had retreated from the vanities and deceits of theworld to this secluded spot, where she lived like a heroine upon theproduce of her flocks, with some "neat-handed Phillis, " to milk the cowsand churn the butter, while she sat rapt in contemplation of the starsabove or the snakes below. It was not until after our arrival at Tampicothat I had the mortification to discover that the interesting creature, thecharming recluse, is seventy-eight, and has just buried her seventhhusband! I accept the account doubtingly, and henceforth shall endeavour topicture her to my mind as an ancient enchantress, dwelling amongstserpents, and making her venomous charms of

 "Adder's fork, and blind-worm's sting. Lizard's leg, and owlet's wing. "

As you approach Tampico, the first houses that meet the eye, have theeffect of a number of coloured band-boxes; some blue, some white, which aparty of tired milliners have laid down amongst the rushes. On leaving theboat, and walking through the town, though there are some solid stonedwellings, I could have fancied myself in a New England village. Neat"shingle palaces, " with piazzas and pillars; nothing Spanish, and upon thewhole, an air of cleanness and cheerfulness astonishing to me who havefancied Tampico an earthly purgatory. We afterwards heard that these houseswere actually made in the United States and sent out here. There are somegood-looking _stores_; and though there is certainly little uniformity inthe architecture of the houses, yet considering the city was built onlysixteen years ago, I consider it a slandered place. In 1825 there were buta few Indian huts here, and any little commerce there was, concentrateditself in _Pueblo Viejo, _ which stands on the shores of a lake some milesoff. We were taken to the house of a Spanish consul, a fine, airy, stonebuilding with a gay view from the windows;--the very first house that wasbuilt in the place. 

Its owner, Don Juan de la Lastra, Spanish vice-consul, is not here himself, but we were kindly received by Don Josd de Comez Mira, the consul. In theevening all the principal Spaniards in the place came to see C---n; andhaving arrived here yesterday morning as perfect strangers, without theprobability of finding any one whom we knew, we find ourselves surroundedby the most unexpected and gratifying attentions. As to what is calledsociety, there is literally none in Tampico. Those who live here, have comein the hope of making their fortune; and the few married men who areamongst them have been unwilling to expose their wives to the unhealthyclimate, the plague of mosquitoes and _xins-xins, _ the intermittent fevers, which are more to be dreaded here than the yellow fever, and the nearlytotal deprivation of respectable female society. The men, at least theSpaniards, unite in a sort of club, and amuse their leisure evenings withcards and billiards; but the absence of ladies' society must always make itdull. Riding and shooting in the neighbourhood are their out-of-dooramusements, and there is excellent sport along the river, which may beenjoyed when the heat is not too intense. 

Our captain, who has paid us a visit this evening, with several Englishmen, expects to get off to-morrow. We staid at home in the morning on account ofthe heat, and wrote letters, but in the afternoon we made the most of ourtime, walking about the city, in which there is not much to see. There aremany comfortable-looking large houses, generally built according to thecustoms of the country whereof the proprietor is a native. Were it not forthe bar, which is a terrible obstacle, not only from the danger in crossingit, but the detention that it causes, vessels having been stopped outsidefor months, Tampico would become a most flourishing port. Besides that thedepth of water can permit vessels of burden to anchor near the town, thereis an interior navigation up the country, for upwards of forty leagues. 

The banks of the river are described as being very beautiful, which we caneasily believe from what we have already seen; but for its beauties afterpassing Tampico; its wooded shores dotted with white ranchos, its largecattle farms, and its picturesque old Indian town of Panuco, we must trustto hearsay. The country in the vicinity is described as being a wildernessof rare trees, matted together with graceful and flowering creepers, thewild haunts of birds of bright and beautiful plumage; but our ardour tovisit these tangled shrubberies was damped by the accounts of myriads of_xins-xins_ and _garrapatos;_ little insects that bury themselves in theskin, producing irritation and fever; of the swarming mosquitoes, --thehorrid caimans that bask on the shore; and worse than all, the venomoussnakes that glide amongst the rank vegetation. Parrots and butterflies andfragrant flowers will not compensate for these. 

We have just been hearing a curious circumstance connected with poisonousreptiles, which I have learned for the first time. Here, and all along thecoast, the people are in the habit of inoculating themselves with thepoison of the rattlesnake, which renders them safe from the bite of allvenomous animals. The person to be inoculated is pricked with the tooth ofa serpent, on the tongue, in both arms and on various parts of the body;and the venom introduced into the wounds. An eruption comes out, whichlasts a few days. Ever after, these persons can handle the most venomoussnakes with impunity; can make them come by calling them, have greatpleasure in fondling them; and the bite of these persons is poisonous! Youwill not believe this; but we have the testimony of seven or eightrespectable merchants to the fact. A gentleman who breakfasted here thismorning, says that he has been vainly endeavouring to make up his mind tosubmit to the operation, as he is very much exposed where he lives, and isobliged to travel a great deal on the coast; that when he goes on theseexpeditions, he is always accompanied by his servant, an inoculated negro, who has the power of curing him, should he be bit, by sucking the poisonfrom the wound. He also saw this negro cure the bite given by an inoculatedIndian boy to a white boy with whom he was fighting, and who was thestronger of the two. The stories of the eastern jugglers, and their powerover these reptiles, may perhaps be accounted for in this way. I cannot saythat I should like to have so much _snaky_ nature transferred into mycomposition, nor to live amongst people whose bite is venomous. . . . 

We have just returned from a moonlight walk to the Glorieta, a publicpromenade which they are making here, where there are some stone benchesfor the promenaders, close to which some public-spirited individuals haddragged the carcase of a horse, which obliged us to retrace our steps withall convenient speed. 

As for provisions in this place, if we may judge by the specimens we haveseen in this house, they are both good and abundant. We had especially finefish, and a variety of vegetables. To-morrow, alas! we return to ourpacket, much refreshed, however, by two pleasant days on shore, andconsoling ourselves for our prolonged voyage by the reflection, that had wegone direct to Havana, we should not have seen Tampico; and, as LaFontaine's travelling pigeon says, "Quiconque ne voit guere N'a guere a dire aussi. Mon voyage depeint Vous sera d'un plaisir extreme. 

 Je dirai: j'étais là; telle chose m'avint: Vous y croirez être vous-même. "[1]

 [Footnote 1: He who sees little, little can he say; And when my travels I describe some day, And say, "That chanced to me--there I have been"-- The pleasure you will feel will be so great, You will believe, while hearing me relate, That all these wonders you yourself have seen. ]

Once more on board our floating prison. A _norte_ is expected this evening, but at least it will now be in our favour, and will drive us towardsHavana. Our Spanish friends concluded their cordial and disinterestedkindness, by setting off with us by daybreak this morning, in a large boatwith Spanish colours unfurled, crossing the bar with us, coming on board, and running no small risk in recrossing it, with every prospect of anorther before their eyes. We stopped at the house of the "_MarineMonster_, " Don Leonardo Mata, before crossing the bar, took up our shells, and had the felicity of making his acquaintance. He is a colossal old man, almost gigantic in height, and a Falstaff in breadth--gruff in his manners, yet with a certain clumsy good-nature about him. He performs the office ofpilot with so much exclusiveness, charging such high prices, governing themen with so iron a sway, and arranging everything so entirely according tohis own fancy, that he is a complete sovereign in his own small way--the_tyrant of Tampico_. He has in his weather-beaten face such a mixture ofbluffness and slyness, with his gigantic person, and abrupt, half-savagemanners, that, altogether, I conceive him to be a character who might havebeen worthy the attention of Walter Scott, had he chanced to encounter him. Old and repulsive as he is, he has lately married a pretty young girl--asubject on which he does not brook raillery. One amiable trait the oldtyrant has in his character--his affection for his old mother, who isupwards of ninety, and who resides at Mahon, and to whom he is constant inhis attentions. At one time he was in the habit of sending her small sumsof money; but as they were frequently lost, he sent her five hundreddollars at once by a safe conveyance. The old woman, he said, was sofrightened by seeing such a quantity of money in her hut, that she couldnot sleep, and at length entrusted it to a _friend_, who carried it offaltogether. Since then he has assigned her fifteen dollars a month, uponwhich the old woman lives in what she considers great luxury. 

We took leave of our friends an hour or two ago, but do not expect to setsail till the afternoon, as they are discharging the quicksilver which ourvessel brought, and loading the silver which we carry away. Three youngEnglishmen came on board this morning, to see the packet, and are making adisagreeable visit, being perfectly overwhelmed by sea-sickness. 

2Oth. --Last night arose a furious norther. To-day it continues; but as itis driving us towards our desired haven, and away from these dangerouscoasts, we need not complain. As usual on these occasions, I find myselfalone on the deck, never suffering from the universal prostrator oflandsmen. By way of variety, I have been sitting in the cabin, holding onto the leg of a table, and trying to read Stephens, with as much attentionas circumstances will permit. All further attempts at _writing_ must bedelayed!

3Oth. --On the 21st the norther continued with unabated violence, the wildwind and the boiling waves struggling on the agitated bosom of the ocean, great billows swelling up one after the other, and threatening to engulfus; the ship labouring and creaking as if all its timbers were partingasunder, and the captain in such a state of intense suffering, that we werein great apprehension for his life. Horrible days, and yet more horriblenights! But they were succeeded by fine weather, and at length we had theconsolation of seeing the moon, smiling placidly down upon us, like aharbinger of peace. On the evening of the twenty-sixth the full moon rosewith a troubled countenance, her disk obscured by angry clouds. She shookthem off, but still looked turbid and superb. A gloomy cloud, black asnight, still stretched over her like a pall, thickly veiling, yet notentirely obscuring her light, and soon after she appeared, riding serenelyin the high heavens, mildly triumphant. Of all who sing the praises of themoon, who should love her blessed beams from his inmost heart like theseaman? Then the angry clouds dispersed;--the north wind blew freshly, butnot fiercely, as if even his blustering fury were partly soothed by theinfluence of her placid light;--the studding-sails were set, and the Tyrianbounded on her course eight knots an hour. 

The next day the wind died away, and then blew lightly from the oppositequarter. We were about two hundred and fifty miles from Havana, but werethen driven in the direction of Yucatan. The two following days we hadcontrary wind, but charming weather. We studied the chart, and read, andwalked on deck, and played at drafts, and sat in the moonlight. The sea wascovered with flying fish, and the "Portuguese men of war, " as the sailorscall the independent little nautilus, sailed contemptuously past us intheir fairy barks, as if they had been little steamers. A man felloverboard, but the weather being calm, was saved immediately. We have beentacking about and making our way slowly towards Havana, in a zigzag line. Yesterday evening the moon rose in the form of a large heart, of a red goldcolour. This morning, about four o'clock, a fine fresh breeze sprung upfrom the north-east, and we are going on our course at a great rate, withsome hopes of anchoring below the Morro this evening. To-day being Sunday, we had prayers on deck, which the weather had not before permitted;--thesailors all clean and attentive, as English sailors are. Last night theysang "Rule Britannia, " with great enthusiasm. 

HAVANA, 31st. 

Last evening we once more saw the beautiful bay of Havana, once more passedthe Morro, and our arrival was no sooner known, than the captain-general, Don Geromino Valdés, sent his falua to bring us to the city, and evenwished us to go to his palace; but Don B---o H---a, who gave us sohospitable a reception on our first visit, came on board, and kindlyinsisted on taking us to his house, where we found everything as elegantand comfortable as before, and from whence I now write these few lines. 

In the midst of our pleasure at being once more on dry land, surrounded byour former friends, and at receiving letters from home, we were shocked anddistressed to hear of the unexpected death of our friend, the Señora deGutierrez Estrada, who had followed her husband to Havana in his exile. What a blow to him, to her mother, to all her friends!. . . 

I shall send off this letter by the first opportunity, that you may know ofour safe arrival. 

LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH

Havana--The Carnival--The Elssler--La Angosta--Ingenio of CountV---a--General Bustamante--Lord Morpeth--Leave Havana--Voyage in theMedway--Old Friends-Return to the United States. 

HAVANA, February 27th. 

It has been very agreeable for us to return here as private individuals, and to receive the same attentions as when we came in a public situation, but now with more real friendliness. Having arrived at the time of thecarnival, we have been in the midst of masked balls, which are curious tosee for once; of operas, dinners, and every species of gaiety. Butreturning so soon, I shall enter into no details. The weather is beautiful, and this house, situated on the bay, receives every sea-breeze as it blows. The Elssler is still attracting immense and enthusiastic crowds; and is nowdancing at the theatre of Tacon, where she is seen to much more advantagethan in the other. We have been breakfasting in the luxurious _Quintets_ inthe neighbourhood, driving in the Paseo every evening in an open volante, attending the opera; in short, leading so gay a life, that a little rest inthe country will be agreeable;--and we have accepted with pleasure theinvitation of Count and Countess F----a, to spend some time at _LaAngosta, _ one of his country places; a sugar and coffee estate. GeneralBustamante arrived in the Jason, a few days after us, they having sailedlater. They had been very anxious concerning the fate of the Tyrian, inthese northern gales off Tampico. We have received letters from our Mexicanfriends, and learn, with great sorrow, the death of the Dowager Marquesa deVivanco, and of the Señora H----a of Pascuaro--also the _murder_ of aSpanish physician, with whom we were intimately acquainted, --at his distanthacienda. 

LA ANGOSTA, 13th March. 

We have spent a most agreeable fortnight at La Angosta, and have alsovisited the Count and Countess V---a, in their plantation near this. General Bustamante was here for a day or two. Lord Morpeth also passed afew days with us; so that altogether we have had a pleasant party. We havebeen delighted with the elegant hospitality, without ostentation oretiquette, which we have met with here. But we shall now return so soon, that I shall reserve all particulars till we meet. 

ON BOARD THE STEAM-SHIP MEDWAY, April 28th. 

With a warning of only three hours, we came on board this splendid steamer, eight days ago, after taking a hurried leave of our kind friends, at leastof all those who are now in Havana; for the Count and Countess de F---a, and the Count and Countess de V---a are still in the country. Don B---oH---a and his family accompanied us to the ship in the government _falua_. General Bustamante, with his young aide-de-camp, together with Señor deGutierrez Estrada, and various other gentlemen, hearing of our suddendeparture, came out in boats to take leave of us. Alas! thoseleave-takings. 

We had the agreeable surprise of finding that we were acquainted with allour fellow-passengers. There are our particular friends the E---s, thepadre F---n, and Mr. G---s, all from Mexico; M. D---s de M---s, who wasattached to the French legation in Mexico, and is now returning from amission to California; Mr. And Miss ----- of Boston, etc. We came on boardon the evening of the twentieth, but did not leave the harbour till themorning of the twenty-first. The day was beautiful, and as we passed out, we could distinguish the waving of many handkerchiefs from the balconies. In this floating palace, with large airy berths, a beautiful cabin, anagreeable society, books, a band of music, ices, etc. ; not to mention thatimportant point, an excellent and good-hearted captain, we have passed ourtime as pleasantly as if we were in the most splendid hotel. 

On the twenty-third we went out in a little boat, in the middle of thenight, to Nassau, in New Providence, to buy some of those beautifulspecimens of shell-flowers, for which that place is celebrated. We set offagain at three in the morning of the twenty-fourth, on which day, beingSunday, we had prayers on board. The weather was beautiful, and even withcontrary wind, the Medway went _steaming_ on her course at the rate of nineknots an hour. 

On the twenty-fifth we lay off Savannah. A pilot came on board, and we wentup the river in a boat to the city, where we passed an agreeable day, andin the evening returned to the ship. Crowds of people from Savannah wentout to see the steamer. The next day we cast anchor off Charleston, andagain a pilot came on board; but the day was stormy and gloomy, and onlytwo of the passengers went on shore. We have now had several days of badweather; wind and rain; and one night a storm of thunder and lightning; yetdown in the cabin there is scarce any motion, and we have been sittingreading and writing as quietly as if we were in our own rooms. After twoyears and a half of spring and summer, we feel the cool very much. 

29th. --We are now passing the Narrows. Once more the green shores of StatenIsland appear in sight. We left them two years and six months ago; just aswinter was preparing to throw his white shroud over the dolphin hues of thedying autumn; the weather gloomy and tearful. Now the shores are coveredwith the vegetation of spring, and the grass is as green as emeralds. Ishall write no more, for we must arrive to-day; and I shall be the bearerof my own despatches. 

The day is bright and beautiful. The band is playing its gayest airs. Alittle boat is coming from the Quarantine. In a few minutes more we shallbe _at home!_

THE END