The Land of Midian (Revisited). 

 By Richard F. Burton. 

 In Two Volumes. 

 Vol. II. 

 C. Kegan Paul & Co. London:

 1879. 

 To the Memory of My Much Loved Niece, Maria Emily Harriet Stisted, Who Died at Dovercourt, November 12, 1878. 

 CONTENTS

 PART II. The March Through Central and Eastern Midian. (Continued)

Chapter XI. The Unknown Lands South of the Hismá--Ruins of Shuwák and ShaghabChapter XII. From Shaghab to Zibá--Ruins of El-Khandakí and Umm Ámil--The Turquoise Mine--Return to El-MuwaylahChapter XIII. A Week Around and Upon the Shárr Mountain--Résumé of the March Through Eastern or Central MidianChapter XIV. Down South--To El-Wijh–Notes on the Quarantine-- The Hutaym Tribe. Chapter XV. The Southern Sulphur-Hill--The Cruise to El-Haurá- -Notes on the Baliyy Tribe and the Volcanic Centres of North-Western ArabiaChapter XVI. Our Last March--The Inland Fort--Ruins of the Gold-Mines at Umm El-Karáyát and Umm El-HarábChapter XVII. The March Continued to El-Badá--Description of the Plain BadaisChapter XVIII. Coal a "Myth"--March to Marwát--Arrival at the Wady HamzChapter XIX. The Wady Hamz--The Classical Ruin--Abá'l- Marú, The Mine of "Marwah"--Return to El- Wijh--Résumé of the Southern JourneyConclusion

Appendix I. Dates of the Three Journeys (Northern, Central, and Southern) made by the Second Khedivial ExpeditionAppendix II. EXpenses of the Expedition to Midian, Commanded by Captain R. F. Burton, H. B. M. Consul, TriesteAppendix III. Preserved Provisions and other Stores, Supplied by Messrs. Voltéra Bros. , of the Ezbekiyyah, CairoAppendix IV. Botany and List of InsectsAppendix V. Meteorological Journal

Index

 PART II. The March Through Central and Eastern Midian. (Continued. )

 Chapter XI. The Unknown Lands South of the Hismá–Ruins of Shuwák and Shaghab. 

We have now left the region explored by Europeans; and our lineto the south and the south-east will lie over ground wholly new. In front of us the land is no longer Arz Madyan: we are enteringSouth Midian, which will extend to El-Hejáz. As the march mightlast longer than had been expected, I ordered fresh supplies fromEl-Muwaylah to meet us in the interior viâ Zibá. A very small boyacted dromedary-man; and on the next day he reached the fort, distant some thirty-five and a half direct geographical mileseastward with a trifling of northing. 

We left the Jayb el-Khuraytah on a delicious morning (6. 15 a. M. , February 26th), startling the gazelles and the hares from theirbreakfast graze. 

The former showed in troops of six; and the latter were stillbreeding, as frequent captures of the long-eared young proved. The track lay down the Wady Dahal and other influents of thegreat Wady Sa'lúwwah, a main feeder of the Dámah. We made aconsiderable détour between south-south-east and south-east toavoid the rocks and stones discharged by the valleys of theShafah range on our left. To the right rose the Jibál el-Tihámah, over whose nearer brown heights appeared the pale blue peaks ofJebel Shárr and its southern neighbour, Jebel Sa'lúwwah. 

At nine a. M. We turned abruptly eastward up the Wadyel-Sulaysalah, whose head falls sharply from the Shafah range. The surface is still Hismá ground, red sand with blocks of ruddygrit, washed down from the plateau on the left; and, according toFurayj, it forms the south-western limit of the Harrah. Thevalley is honeycombed into man-traps by rats and lizards, causingmany a tumble, and notably developing the mulish instinct. Wethen crossed a rough and rocky divide, Arabicč a Majrá, or, asthe Bedawin here pronounce it, a "Magráh, "[EN#1] which takes itsname from the tormented Ruways ridge on the right. After a hot, unlively march of four hours (= eleven miles), on mules worn outby want of water, we dismounted at a queer isolated lump on theleft of the track. This Jebel el-Murayt'bah ("of the LittleStep") is lumpy grey granite of the coarsest elements, whosefalse strata, tilted up till they have become quasi-vertical, andworn down to pillars and drums, crown the crest like giganticcolumnar crystallizations. We shall see the same freak of naturefar more grandly developed into the "Pins" of the Shárr. It hasevidently upraised the trap, of which large and small blocks arehere and there imbedded in it. The granite is cut in its turn bylong horizontal dykes of the hardest quadrangular basalt, occasionally pudding'd with banded lumps of red jasper andoxydulated iron: from afar they look like water-lines, and inplaces they form walls, regular as if built. The rounded formsresult from the granites flaking off in curved laminć, likeonion-coats. Want of homogeneity in the texture causes thegranite to degrade into caves and holes: the huge blocks whichhave fallen from the upper heights often show unexpected hollowsin the under and lower sides. Above the water we found an immensenatural dolmen, under which apparently the Bedawin take shelter. After El-Murayt'bah the regular granitic sequence disappears, norwill it again be visible till we reach Shaghab (March 2nd). 

About noon we remounted and rounded the south of the block, disturbing by vain shots two fine black eagles. I had reckonedupon the "Water of El-Murayt'bah, " in order to make anexceptional march after so many days of deadly slow going. Butthe cry arose that the rain-puddle was dry. We had not brought asufficient supply with us, and twenty-two miles to and from theWady Dahal was a long way for camels, to say nothing of theirowners and the danger of prowling Ma'ázah. In front water laystill farther off, according to the guides, who, it will be seen, notably deceived us. So I ordered the camp to be pitched, afterreconnoitering the locale of the water; and we all proceeded towork, with a detachment of soldiers and quarrymen. It was not arain-puddle, but a spring rising slowly in the sand, which hadfilled up a fissure in the granite about four feet broad; ofthese crevices three were disposed parallel to one another, andat different heights. They wanted only clearing out; the producewas abundant, and though slightly flavoured with iron andsulphur, it was drinkable. The thirsty mules amused us not alittle: they smelt water at once; hobbled as they were, allhopped like kangaroos over the plain, and with long ears well tothe fore, they stood superintending the operation till it wastheir turn to be happy. 

Our evening at the foot of El-Ruways was cheered, despite theflies, the earwigs, and the biting Ba'úzah beetle, which herefirst put in an appearance, by the weird and fascinating aspectof the southern Hismá-wall, standing opposite to us, and distantabout a mile from the dull drab-coloured basin, El-Majrá. Basedupon mighty massive foundations of brown and green trap, theundulating junction being perfectly defined by a horizontal whiteline, the capping of sandstone rises regular as if laid incourses, with a huge rampart falling perpendicular upon thenatural slope of its glacis. This bounding curtain is called theTaur el-Shafah, the "inaccessible part of the Lip-range. " Furthereastward the continuity of the coping has been broken andweathered into the most remarkable castellations: you pass mileafter mile of cathedrals, domes, spires, minarets, and pinnacles;of fortresses, dungeons, bulwarks, walls, and towers; ofplatforms, buttresses, and flying buttresses. These Girágir(Jirájir), as the Bedawin call them, change shape at every newpoint of view, and the eye never wearies of their infinitevariety. Nor are the tints less remarkable than the forms. Whenthe light of day warms them with its gorgeous glaze, thebuildings wear the brightest hues of red concrete, like a certainhouse near Prince's Gate, set off by lambent lights of livelypink and balas-ruby, and by shades of deep transparent purple, while here and there a dwarf dome or a tumulus gleams sparklingwhite in the hot sun-ray. The even-glow is indescribably lovely, and all the lovelier because unlasting: the moment the red discdisappears, the glorious rosy smile fades away, leaving the palegrey ghosts of their former selves to gloom against the gloamingof the eastern sky. I could not persuade M. Lacaze to transferthis vividity of colour to canvas: he had the artist's normalexcuse, "Who would believe it?"

The next morning saw the Expedition afoot at six a. M. , determinedto make up for a half by the whole day's work so long intended. The track struck eastward, and issued from the dull hollow, Majráel-Ruways, by a made road about a mile and a half long, a cornicecut in the stony flanks of a hill whose head projected southwardsinto the broad Wady Hujayl ("the Little Partridge"). This lineseems to drain inland; presently it bends round by the east andfeeds the Wady Dámah. Rain must lately have fallen, for the earthis "purfled flowers, " pink, white, and yellow. The latter is thetint prevailing in Midian, often suggesting the careless Europeanwheat-field, in which "shillock" or wild mustard rears itsgamboge head above the green. Midian wants not only the charmingoleander and the rugged terebinth, typical of the Desert; butalso the "blood of Adonis, " the lovely anemone which lights upthe Syrian landscape like the fisherman's scarlet cap in asea-piece. This stage introduced us to the Hargul (Harjal, Rhazyastricta), whose perfume filled the valley with the clean smell ofthe henna-bloom, the Eastern privet--Mr. Clarke said"wallflowers. " Our mules ate it greedily, whilst the countryanimals, they say, refuse it: the flowers, dried and pounded, cure by fumigation "pains in the bones. " Here also we saw for thefirst time the quaint distaff-shape of the purple red Masrúr(Cynomorium coccineum, Linn. ), from which the Bedawi "cookbread. " It is eaten simply peeled and sun-dried, when it has avegetable taste slightly astringent as if by tannin, somethingbetween a potato and a turnip; or its rudely pounded flour ismade into balls with soured milk. This styptic, I am told by Mr. R. B. Sharpe, of the British Museum, was long supposed to bepeculiar to Malta; hence its pre-Linnaean name (FungusMelitensis). [EN#2] Now it is known to occur through theMediterranean to India. Let me here warn future collectors ofbotany in Midian that throughout the land the vegetable kingdomfollows the rule of the mineral: every march shows something new;and he who neglects to gather specimens, especially of thesmaller flowers, in one valley, will perhaps find none of them inthose adjoining. 

A denser row of trees lower down the Wady Hujayl led to the waterof Amdán (Mídán?), about an hour and a half from our lastnighting-place; yesterday it had been reported six hours distant. High towering on our left (north) rose three huge buttresses ofthe Girágir. In front stood a marvellous background of domes andarches, cones and ninepins, all decayed Hismá, blurred and brokenby the morning mist, which could hardly be called a fog; andforming a perspective of a dozen distances. Now they curve fromnorth-east to south-west in a kind of scorpion's tail, withdetached vertebrae torn and wasted by the adjacent plutonicoutcrops; and looking from the west they suggest blood-red isletsrising above the great gloomy waves of trap and porphyry. Thisprojection will remain in sight until we reach Shuwák; and inplaces we shall see it backed by the basalts and lavas of thestraightlined Harrah. 

Presently turning sharp to the right (south-east), we struckacross a second divide, far more shallow than the first; and fellinto the northern basin of the great Dámah valley, also known asEl-Rahabah, "the Open;"--the Rehoboth ("spaces") of the Hebrews. Like yesterday's, the loose red sand is Hismá; and it is alsoscattered with Harrah lava. After a four hours' ride we halted toenable the caravan to come up. Our Shaykhs were bent upon makingtwelve miles the average day's work; and their "little game" wasnow to delay as much as possible. Here we again found flocks ofsheep and goats tended by young girls, who ran away likeostriches, and by old women who did not: on the contrary, Sycoraxenjoyed asking the news and wrangling over a kid. The camelsthroughout this country seem to be always under the charge of menor boys. 

Here began our study of the great Wady Da'mah, whose fame as anArabian Arcadia extends far and wide, and whose possession hascaused many a bloody battle. We now see it at its best, in earlyspring morning, when

 "The landscape smiles Calm in the sun, and silent are the hills And valleys, and the blue serene of air. "

This notable feature is a Haddúdah ("frontier divider"), which inancient days separated the ‘Ukbíyyah ("Ukbah-land") to the northfrom the Balawi'yyah ("Baliyy-land") south. The latter stillclaim it as their northern limit; but the intrusive Egypto-Arabshave pushed their way far beyond this bourne. Its present Huwaytiowners, the Sulaymiyyín, the Sulaymát, the Jeráfín, and othertribes, are a less turbulent race than the northerns because theyare safe from the bandit Ma'ázah: they are more easily managed, and they do not meet a fair offer with the eternal Yaftah‘Allah--"Allah opens. "[EN#3]

The head of the Dámah, a great bay in the Hismá-wall to the east, is now in sight of us; and we shall pass its mouth, whichdebouches into the sea below Zibá. This tract is equally abundantin herds (camels), flocks, and vegetation: in places a thinforest gathers, and the tree-clumps now form a feature in thescenery. The sole, a broad expanse of loose red arenaceousmatter, the washings of the plateau, is fearfully burrowed andhoneycombed; it is also subject, like its sister the Sadr, to thefrequent assault of "devils, " or sand-pillars. That it isplentifully supplied with water, we learn from the presence ofbirds. The cries of the caravane, the "knock-kneed" plover ofEgypt, yellow-beaked and black-eyed, resounded in the more barrenbelts. A lovely little sun-bird (Nectarinia oseś?), which theFrenchmen of course called colibri, with ravishing reflections ofgreen and gold, flashed like a gem thrown from shrub to shrub:this oiseau mouche is found scattered throughout Midian; we sawit even about El-Muwaylah, but I had unfortunately twiceforgotten dust-shot. The Egyptian Rakham (percnopter), yellowwith black-tipped wings; a carrion-eater, now so rare, and thecommon brown kite, still so common near civilized Cairo, soaredin the sky; while the larger vultures, perching upon therock-ridges, suggested Bedawi sentinels. The ravens, here aselsewhere, are a plague: flights of them occupy favourite places, and they prey upon the young lambs, hares, and maimed birds. 

We advanced another five miles, and crossed to the southern sideof the actual torrent-bed, whose banks, strewed with a quantityof dead flood-wood entangling the trees, and whose flaky clays, cracked to the shape of slabs and often curling into tubes ofnatural pottery, show that at times the Hismá must dischargefurious torrents. We camped close to the Dámah at the foot of theJebel el-Balawi; the water, known as Máyat el-Jebayl ("of theHillock"), lay ahead in a low rocky snout: it was represented asbeing distant a full hour, and the mules did not return from ittill three had passed; but thirty minutes would have been nearerthe truth. The Nile-drinkers turned up their fastidious noses atthe supply, but Lieutenant Amir, who had graduated in the roughcampaigning-school of the Súdán, pronounced it "regular. "

The nighting-place on the Dámah was as pretty and picturesque asthe Majrá was tame and uncouth. While the west was amber clear, long stripes of purpling, crimson, flaming cloud, to the southand the east, set off the castled crags disposed in a semicircleround the Wady-head; and the "buildings" appeared art-likeenough to be haunted ground, the domain of the Fata Morgana, aglimpse of the City of Brass built by Shaddaá, son of ‘Ad. Whenthe stars began to glitter sharp and clear, our men fell tosinging and dancing; and the boy Husayn Ganinah againdistinguished himself by his superior ribaldry. Our work was morerespectable and prosaic, firing a mule with a swollen back. 

Within a mile or so of us stood some Bedawi tents, which we hadpassed on the march: they were deserted by the men, hereSulaymát, who drive their camels to the wilds sometimes for aweek at a time. An old wife who brought us a goat for sale, andwho begged that Husayn, the Básh-Buzúk, might pass the night withher, in order to shoot an especially objectionable wolf, had along tale to tell of neighbouring ruins. She also reported thatnear the same place there is a well with steps, into which theArabs had descended some seven fathoms; presently they foundhouses occupying the galleries at the bottom, and fled in terror. 

Lieutenant Amir was sent to sketch and survey the site nextmorning; and he was lucky enough to be guided by one Sa'id binZayfullah, the Sulaymi, whose prime dated from the palmy days ofthe great Mohammed Ali Pasha. He acknowledged as his friends thegrandfather, and even the father, of our guide Furayj; but thelatter he ignored, looking upon him as a mere Walad ("lad"). Moreover, he remembered the birth of Shaykh Mohammed ‘Afnán, chief of the Baliyy, which took place when he himself had alreadybecome a hunter of the gazelle. [EN#4] According to him, theremains are still known as the Dár ("house") or Diyár ("houses")El-Nasárá--"of the Nazarenes, " that is, of the Nabathaeans. Theformer term is retained here, as in Sinai, by popular tradition;and the latter is clean forgotten throughout Midian. [EN#5]

Riding down the Wady Dámah to the southwest, Lieutenant Amir cameupon a spring in a stone-revetted well near the left bank: thisAyn el-Bada' is not to be confounded with the Badí' water, orwith the Badá plain, both of which we shall presently visit. Astrew of broken quartz around it showed the atelier, andspecimens of scattered fragments, glass and pottery, weregathered. The settlement-ruins, which the guide calledEl-Kantarah, lie further down upon a southern influent of themain line: they are divided into two blocks, one longer than theother. Lieutenant Amir made a careful plan of the remains, andthen pushed forward to Shuwák by the direct track, westward ofthat taken by the caravan. He arrived in camp, none the worse fora well-developed "cropper;" his dromedary had put its foot in ahole, and had fallen with a suddenness generally unknown to thecameline race. 

By way of geographical exercitation, we had all drawn our severalplans, showing, after Arab statement, the lay of Shaghab andShuwák, the two ruins which we were about to visit. Nothing couldbe more ridiculous when the sketch-maps came to be compared. Thiswas owing to the route following the three sides of a longparallelogram; whilst the fourth is based upon the Wady Dámah, causing considerable complication. And, the excursus ended, allwere convinced that we had made much southing, when our furthestpoint was not more than five miles south of Zibá (north lat. 27°20'). 

We quitted the great valley at six a. M. (February 28th), andstruck up the Wady Shuwák, an influent that runs northwards tothe Dámah's left bank. On the stony ground above the right sideof this Fiumara lay six circles of stones, disposed in a linefrom north-east to south-west: they may have been ruins of Hufrah("water-pits"). As we rose the Nullah surface was pied with whiteflowers, the early growth which here takes the place ofprimroses. I had some difficulty in persuading our good friendFurayj, who had not seen the country for fifteen years, to engageas guide one of the many Bedawin camel-herds: his course seemedto serpentine like that of an animal grazing--he said it wasintended to show the least stony road--and, when he pointed withthe wave of the maimed right hand, he described an arc of some90°. The Sulaymi lad caught the nearest camel, climbed its sidesas you would a tree, and, when the animal set off at a lumberinggallop, pressed the soles of his feet to the ribs, with exactlythe action of a Simiad; clinging the while, like grim Death, tothe hairy hump. 

After some six miles we attempted a short cut, a gorge thatdebouched on the left bank of the Shuwák valley. It showed atonce a complete change of formation: the sides were painted withclays of variegated colours, crystallized lime and porphyriticconglomerates, tinted mauve-purple as if by manganese. Furtheron, the path, striking over broken divides and long tracts ofstony ground, became rough riding: it was bordered by the usualmonotonous, melancholy hills of reddish and greenish trap, whoseslaty and schist-like edges in places stood upright. On thesummit of the last Col appeared the ruins of an outwork, a largesquare and a central heap of boulder-stones. Straight in frontrose the block that backs our destination, the Jebel el-Sáni', or"Mountain of the Maker, " the artificer par excellence, that is, the blacksmith: it is so called from a legendary shoer of horsesand mules, who lived there possibly in the days before SultánSelim. It is remarkable for its twin peaks, sharp-topped blocks, the higher to the east, and called by the Bedawin Naghar andNughayr. The guides spoke of a furnace near the summit of theseremarkable cones; excellent landmarks which we shall keep insight during several marches. At length, after ten miles of slowwork, we saw before us, stretched as upon a map, the broad valleywith its pink sands; the Daum-trees, the huge ‘Ushr or "Apple ofSodom, " the fan-palm bush, and the large old Jujubes--here aninvariable sign of former civilization--which informed us thatthere lay fair Shuwák. 

The dull gorge introduced us to what was then a novelty inMidian; but we afterwards found it upon the cold heights of theShárr, where it supplied us with many a dainty dish. This was theShinnár[EN#6] (caccabis), a partridge as large as a pheasant, andflavoured exactly like the emigrant from Phasis. 

The coat, the clock! clock! and the nimble running over therocks, ever the favourite haunt, denote the "perdix. " The head isblack, as in the C. Melanocephala of Abyssinia, and the legs andfeet are red like the smaller "Greek" caccabis that inhabits theHismá; the male birds have no spurs, and they are but littlelarger than their mates. There seems to be no difficulty inkeeping them; we bought a hen and chicks caged at El-Wijh, butwhether they lived or not I neglected to note. Here, too, welearned the reason why the falcons and the hawks (Falco milvus, F. Gentilis, etc. ) are so fierce and so well-fed. The tyrant ofthe air raises the partridge or the quail by feinting a swoop, and, as it hurries away screaming aloud, follows it leisurely ata certain distance. Finally, when the quarry reaches the placeintended--at least, the design so appears--the falcon stoops andends the chase. The other birds were ring-doves, turtles, and thelittle "butcher" impaling, gaily as a "gallant Turk, " its livevictim upon a long thorn. 

Shuwák, which lies in about north lat. 27° 15', can be no other thanthe placed by Ptolemy (vi. 7) in north lat. 26° 15'; and, ifso, we must add one degree to his latitudes, which are sixty milestoo low. [EN#7] According to Sprenger ("Alt. Geog. , " p. 25), and do not fit into any of the Alexandrian's routes; andwere connected only with their ports Rhaunathos (M'jirmah?) andPhoenicon Vicus (Zibá?). But both these cities were large andimportant centres, both of agriculture and of mining industry, forming crucial stations on the great Nabathćan highway, theoverland between Leukč Kóme and Petra. The line was kept up by theMoslems until Sultán Selim's superseded it; and hence the modernlook of the remains which at first astonished us so much. Thetradition of the Hajj-passage is distinctly preserved by theBedawin; and I have little doubt that metal has been worked here aslately, perhaps, as the end of the last century. But by whom, again, deponent ventures not to say, even to guess. 

The site of Shuwák is a long island in the broad sandy Wady ofthe same name, which, as has been remarked, feeds the Dámah. Itsthalweg has shifted again and again: the main line now hugs thesouthern or left bank, under the slopes and folds of the Jebelel-Sáni'; whilst a smaller branch, on the northern side, issubtended by the stony divide last crossed. At the city the layof the valley is from north-east to south-west, and the altitudeis about seventeen hundred feet (aner. 28. 28). The head stillshows the castellations of the Hismá. Looking down-stream, beyondthe tree-dotted bed and the low dark hills that divide this basinfrom the adjoining Wady to the south, we see the tall grey topsof the Jebel Zigláb (Zijláb) and of the Shahbá-Gámirah--the"ashen-coloured (Peak) of Gámirah"--the latter being the name ofa valley. Both look white by the side of the dark red and greenrocks; and we shall presently find that they mark the graniteregion lying south and seaward of the great trap formations. Wewere not sorry to see it again--our eyes were weary of the gloomyplutonic curtains on either side. 

At Shuwák we allowed the camels a day of rest, whilst we plannedand sketched, dug into, and described the ruins. A difficultyabout drinking-water somewhat delayed us. The modern wells, likethose of the Haurán, are rudely revetted pits in a bald and shinybit of clay-plain below the principal block of ruins: only one inthe dozen holds water, and that has been made Wahsh ("foul") bythe torrent sweeping into it heaps of the refuse and manurestrewed around. The lower folds of the Sáni' block also supplyrain-pools; but here, again, the Arabs and their camels had lefttheir marks. The only drinkable water lies a very long mile downthe southern (left) bank, above the old aqueduct, in a deep andnarrow gorge of trap. The perennial spring, still trickling downthe rocks, was dammed across, as remnants of cement show us, inmore places than one. There are also signs of cut basins, whichthe barrages above and below once divided into a series of tanks. Up the rough steps of the bed the camel-men drove their beasts;and the name of a Gujráti maker, printed upon a sack ofAnglo-Indian canvas, had a curious effect among such Bedawisurroundings. 

At last we sank a pit some five feet deep in a re-entering angleof the northern or smaller branch; we lined it with stonedown-stream, where the flow made the loose sand fall in, and weobtained an ample and excellent supply. Doubtless it was spoiled, as soon as our backs were turned, by the half-FellahJeráfín-Huwaytát, to whom the place belongs. The sea-breezeduring the day was high and dust-laden, but we passed a cooldelicious night upon the clean sweet sand, which does not stickor cling. At this altitude there is no fear of bugs andfleas--the only dread is Signor "Pediculus. "

We will begin, with our surveyors, at the valley head, and notethe ruins as we stroll down. This section, Shuwák proper, isnearly a mile and a half long, and could hardly have lodged lessthan twenty thousand souls. But that extent by no meansrepresents the whole; our next march will prolong it along thevalley for a total of at least four miles. The material isvarious--boulders of granite and syenite; squares of trap andporphyry; the red sandstones of the Hismá; the basalts of theHarrah; and the rock found in situ, a brown and crumbling grit, modern, and still in process of agglutination. The heaps andpiles which denote buildings are divided by mounds and tumuli ofloose friable soil, white with salt, --miniatures of Babylon, Nineveh, and Troy. On either flanks of the river-holm theperiodical torrents have done their worst, cutting up the onceregular bank into a succession of clay buttresses. On the rightside we find a large fort, half sliced away, but still showingthe concrete flooring of a tower. About the centre of the lengthare the remnants of a round Burj; blocks of buildings, alllevelled to the foundations, lie to the north-west, and on thewest appear signs of a square. Perhaps the most interestingdiscovery is that of catacombs, proving a civilization analogousto Magháir Shu'ayb, but ruder, because more distant from thecentre. The "caves" are hollowed in a long reef of loose breccia, which, fronting eastward, forms the right bank of the smallerbranch. They are now almost obliterated by being turned intosheep-folds; the roofs have fallen in, and only one preserves thetraces of two loculi. 

The arrangements touching fuel and water in this greatmetal-working establishment are on a large scale. The biggest ofthe Afrán ("furnaces") lies to the north-west, near the rightbank of the valley: all are of the ordinary type, originally somefive or six feet high, to judge from the bases. They are built offire-brick, and of the Hismá stone, which faces itself into anatural latex. We dug deep into several of them; but so carefulhad been the workmen, or perhaps those who afterwards ransackedthese places, that not the smallest tear of metal remained: wefound only ashes, pottery, and scoriae, as usual black and green, the latter worked sub-aerially; many of them had projections likestalactite. Round the furnaces are strewed carbonate of lime, stained black with iron, like that of Sharmá; and a quantity ofthe chlorite-enamelled serpentine still used in the Brazil as aflux. 

Quartz was absent, and we were at a loss to divine what stone hadbeen worked. At last we observed near the catacombs sundry heapsof pinkish earth, evidently washed out; and our researches in theSouth Country afterwards suggested that this may have been theremains of the micaceous schist, whose containing quartz was soextensively worked at Umm el-Haráb. Moreover, a short study ofShaghab threw more light on the matter. 

Water also had been stored up with prodigious labour. We couldeasily trace the lines of half a dozen aqueducts, mostlychannelled with rough cement, overlying a fine concrete; some ofthem had grooved stones to divert the stream by means of lashers. The Fiskíyyah or "tanks, " as carefully built, were of all sizes;and the wells, which appeared to be mediaeval, were lined withstones cut in segments of circles: we shall see the same curve inSultán Selim's work near Zibá. The greatest feat is an aqueductwhich, sanded over in the upper part, subtends the left side ofthe valley. It is carefully but rudely built, and where itcrosses a gully, the "horizontal arch" is formed of projectingstone tiers, without a sign of key. This magnum opus must datefrom the days when the southern part of the Wady was nearly whatit is now. 

About a mile and a quarter below our camp, the Wady, whichbroadens to a mile, shows on the left bank a wall measuring athousand metres long, apparently ending in a tank of 110 feeteach way. Around it are ruined parallelograms of every size, which in ancient times may have been workshops connected with thebuildings in the island higher up. The torrents have now washedaway the continuation, if ever there was any; and, though thelower remnants are comparatively safe upon their high ledge, theholm is evidently fated to disappear. 

I did not learn till too late that a single day's marchsouthwards from the Wady Shuwák, along the old main line oftraffic, leads to the Wady Nejd, upon whose upper course is theplain of Badá; and which, after assuming four different names, falls, as will be seen, into the sea about thirty-five milesnorth of El-Wijh. 

We left Shuwák considerably posed, puzzled, and perplexed by whatit had shown us. A little pottery had been picked up, but ourdiggings had not produced a coin or even a bit of glass. Theevidences of immense labour are the more astonishing whencompared with the utter absence of what we call civilization. TheGreek and Latin inscriptions of the Hauranic cities declare theirorigin: these, absolutely unalphabetic, refuse a single hintconcerning the mysterious race which here lived and worked, andworked so nobly. And, finally, who were the Moslems thatsucceeded them in a later day, when the Hajj-caravan, some threecenturies and a half ago, ceased to march by this road? How is itthat the annalists say nothing of them? that not a vestige oftradition remains concerning any race but the Nazarenes?

From Shuwák to the Wady Dámah there are two roads, a direct andan indirect; the latter passing by the ruins of Shaghab. Thecaravan begged hard to take the former, but was summarilyrefused. At six a. M. We rode down the Shuwák valley, again notingits huge constructions, and then striking away from it to theleft, we passed over a short divide of brown hill, where thenarrow Pass was marked only by Bedawi graves. The morning showeda peculiar rainbow, if a bow may be called so when no rainappeared; a perpendicular stripe, brilliant enough, and lastingat least twenty minutes. The cloud behind it had no skirt, nodroop in fact, no sign of dissolution; and what made it thestranger was that this "bull's-eye" lay north of, and notopposite to, but quite near, the rising sun. We shall noteanother of these exceptional rainbows at El-Badá. [EN#8]

After marching some seven miles to the south with westing, we sawinform heaps to the left: half an hour afterwards, boulder-encircled pits of a brighter green on the right, theThemáil el-Má ("artificial cisterns") of the Arabs, announcedthat we were reaching Shaghab. The caravan punished us by wastingfive hours on the way, in order to force a halt; and by campingat the wrong place, when I objected to the delay. It brought withit, however, a fine young Beden (ibex), killed by one of theBedawin; and we determined to stuff, to bury, and to bake it, Arab fashion, under the superintendence of the Básh-Buzúk Husayn. Unfortunately it was served to us on the next day cold, whereasit should have been eaten at once, piping hot. The meat was dark, with a beefy rather than a gamey flavour, palatable, but by nomeans remarkable. There were loud regrets that a cuisse dechevreuil had not been marinée; in fact, an infect odour of theQuartier Latin everywhere followed us; and when a guide told usthe pattern lie, that we should not reach Umm ‘Amir before thefourth day, the poor "Frogs" croaked, and croaked audibly asdismally. Their last bottle of ordinaire was finished; Gabr, theKázi, had come into camp, bearing a long official Arabic documentfrom Lieutenant Yusuf, but not a single Journal de Genčve; therewas no news of a steamer being sent with rations and forage fromSuez: briefly, c'était embetant--to use the milder of the twofavourite synonyms. 

The ruins of Shaghab are built upon a more complicated site thanthose of Shuwák. The position is charming. The Wady Shaghab, flowing to the south, here spreads out in a broad bulge or basinopen to the west. Down-stream we see a "gate" formed by themeeting of two rocky tongue-tips, both showing large works. Beyond these narrows the valley bends to the south-west and feedsthe Wady Aznab, which falls into the sea south of the Dámah. Themass of the ruined city lies upon the left bank, where a high andartificial-looking remblai of earth masks an eastern influent, the Wady el-Aslah (Athlah), or "of the Kali-plant. " It drains themountain of the same name, and the Jebel Zigláb (Zijláb), thecones of pale granite visible from Shuwák; and upon its broadmouth the old settlement stood ŕ cheval. A little north of westrises profiled the great Shárr, no longer a ridge with a copingof four horns, but a tall and portly block, from whose summitspring heads and peaks of airy blue-pink. Slightly east of norththe twins Naghar and Nughayr, combining to form the "Mountain ofthe Maker" (Jebel el-Sáni'), tower in the shape of a hugepyramid. Lastly, a regular ascent, the Majrá el-Wághir, frontsthe city, sloping up to the west-north-west, and discloses a viewof the Jibál el-Tihámah: this broad incline was, some threecenturies ago, the route of the Hajj-caravan. 

We walked down the Shaghab valley-bed, whose sides, like those ofthe Dámah, are chevaux de frise of dead wood. The characteristicrock is a conglomerate of large and small stones, compacted byhard silicious paste, and stained mauve-purple apparently bymanganese: we had seen it on the way to Shuwák; and the nextday's march will pave the uplands with it. The wells in the soleare distinctly Arab, triangular mouths formed and kept open bylaying down tree-trunks, upon which the drawer of water safelystands. On the right bank up-stream no ruins are perceptible;those on the left are considerable, but not a quarter the size ofShuwák. Here again appear the usual succession of great squares:the largest to the east measures 500 metres along the sides; andthere are three others, one of 400 metres by 192. They aresubtended by one of many aqueducts, whose walls, two feet thick, showed no signs of brick: it is remarkable for being rununderground to pierce a hillock; in fact, the system is ratherGreek or subterranean, than Roman or subaerial. Further down arethe remains apparently of a fort: heaps of land-shells lie aboutit; they are very rare in this region, and during our fourmonths' march we secured only two species. [EN#9]

Still descending, we found the ancient or mediaeval wells, numbering about a dozen, and in no wise differing from those ofShuwák. At the gorge, where the Wady escapes from view, Lieutenant Amir planned buildings on the lower right bank, and onthe left he found a wall about half a mile long, with the remainsof a furnace and quartz scattered about it. This stone hadreappeared in large quantities, the moment we crossed the divide;the pale grey of the Jebel Zigláb and its neighbours wasevidently owing to its presence; and from this point it will befound extending southwards and seawards as far as El-Hejaz. Hebrought with him a hard white stone much resembling trachyte, andfragments of fine green jasper. 

A cursory inspection of Shaghab removed some of the difficultieswhich had perplexed us at Shuwák and elsewhere. In the NorthCountry signs of metal-working, which was mostly confined to theWadys, have been generally obliterated; washed away or sandedover. Here the industry revealed itself without mistake. Thefurnaces were few, but around each one lay heaps of Negro andcopper-green quartz, freshly fractured; while broken handmills ofbasalt and lava, differing from the rubstones and mortars of asofter substance, told their own tale. 

At Shaghab, then, the metalliferous "Marú" brought from theadjacent granitic mountains was crushed, and then transported forroasting and washing to Shuwák, where water, the prime necessaryin these lands, must have been more abundant. Possibly in earlydays the two settlements formed one, the single ofPtolemy; and the south end would have been the headquarters ofthe wealthy. Hence the Bedawin always give it precedence--Shaghabwa Shuwák; moreover, we remarked a better style of building inthe former; and we picked up glass as well as pottery. 

As a turkey buzzard (vulture) is the fittest emblem for murderousDahome, so I should propose for Midian, now spoiled and wasted bythe Wild Man, a broken handmill of basalt upon a pile of spalledNegro quartz. 

 Chapter XII. 

 From Shaghab to Zibá--ruins of El-Khandakí' and Umm Ámil--the Turquoise Mine–Return to El-Muwaylah. 

Leaving Lieutenant Amir to map the principal ruins, we followedthe caravan up the Majrá el-Wághir, the long divide rising to thewest-north-west. The thin forest reminded me of the wooded slopesof the Anti-Libanus about El-Kunaytarah: there, however, terebinths and holm-oaks take the place of these unlovely anduncomfortable thorn-trees. They are cruelly beaten--an operationcalled El-Ramá--by the Bedawi camel-man, part of whose travellingkit, and the most important part too, here as in Sinai, is theflail (Murmár or Makhbat) and the mat to receive the leaves:perhaps Acacias and Mimosas are not so much bettered by "bashing"as the woman, the whelp, and the walnut-tree of the good oldEnglish proverb. After three miles we passed, on the left, ruinsof long walls and Arab Wasm, with white memorial stones perchedon black. In front rose the tall Jebel Tulayh, buttressing theright or northern bank of the Dámah; and behind it, stainedfaint-blue by distance, floated in the flickering mirage thefamiliar forms of the Tihámah range, a ridge now broken into halfa dozen blocks. I had ordered the caravan to march upon theTuwayl el-Súk; but, after one hour and fifteen minutes, we foundthe tents pitched some three miles short of it, on a bleak andugly wave of the Wághir. The Shaykhs swore, by all holy things, that this was the veritable Tuwayl; and a Bedawi, who declaredthat he knew where water lay in the neighbourhood, refused toshow it sans the preliminary "bakhshísh. " Mashallah! It is anoble race. 

Early next morning (six a. M. , March 3rd) we followed the rightbank of the Wady el-Khandakí, which runs north with westing. Beyond it lay the foot-hills of gloomy trap leading to the Jebelel-Raydán, a typical granitic form, a short demi-pique saddlebackwith inwards-sloping pommel like the Pao d'Assucar of picturesqueRio de Janeiro. Here as elsewhere, the granites run parallel withand seaward of the traps. The Tuwayl el-Súk is nothing but anopen and windy flat, where the Hajj-caravan used to camp anadjoining ridge, the Hamrá el-Tuwayl, shows spalled quartz, Wasmand memorial stones. The principal formation here is themauve-purple conglomerate before described. 

After riding nine miles we came unexpectedly upon a large andcurious ruin, backed by the broad Wady Dámah gleaming white inthe sun. The first feature noticed was a pair of parallel walls, or rather their foundations, thirty-five feet apart, and nearly akilometre in length: it looked like a vast hangar. To the leftlie three tracings of squares; the central is a work of earth andstone, not unlike a rude battery; and, a few paces further north, a similar fort has a cistern attached to its western curtain. Heaps of rounded boulders, and the crumbling white-edged moundswhich, in these regions, always denote old habitations, run downthe right bank of the Wady el-Khandakí to its junction with theDámah. For want of a better name I called this old settlementKharábát (the "Ruins of") el-Khandakí, and greatly regretted thatwe had not time enough to march down the whole line of the Dámah. 

Half an hour more placed us at the great Wady, whose generaldirection is here west with a little southing, and which stillmerits its fame as an Arabian Arcadia. The banks were thicklybordered with secular tamarisks (T. Orientalis), those hardywarriors with the Hebrew-Arabic name Asl (Athl), that battleagainst wind and weather, as successfully at Dovercourt (Essex)as at Haydarábád (Sind). 

The tint was the normal grey-green, not unlike that of the trapsin arričre plan. The clumps sheltered goats, sheep, and camels;and our mules now revel every day on green meat, growing fatterand fatter upon the Aristida grass, the Panicum, the Hordeummurinum, and the Bromus of many varieties. Fronting us rose thetwin granitic peaks of Jebel Mutadán, one with a stepped sidelike an unfinished pyramid. They are separated from the Dámah bya rough and stony divide; and ruins with furnaces are reported tobe found in their valley-drain, which feeds the great Wady ‘Amúd. 

We halted, after some sixteen to seventeen miles, at the waterEl-Ziyayb, slightly brackish but relished by our animals; andresumed our way in the cool sea-breeze at one p. M. , passing theJebel Tulayh on the north bank. The track then left the Dámah andturned up a short broad bed to the north-west. On the right rosea block of syenite, ruddy with orthose, all rounded lumps andtwisted finials; it discharged a quantity of black sand thatstreaked the gravel plain. At four p. M. We camped on a broaddivide, El-Kutayyifah, where an adjacent Sha'b, or "fold, "supplied fresh rain-water. The march had teen long (seven hours =twenty-two miles); and Shaykhs and camel-men looked, the Sayyidsaid, as if they had "smelt Jehannum. "

This divide, also called the Jayb el Sa'lúwwah, with granites tothe east, and traps mixed with granites on the west, shows signsof labour. Hard by, to the south-west, some exceptionallyindustrious Bedawi, of the Jeráfín-Huwaytát, had laid out a smallfield with barley. In the evening we walked westward to the hillsthat bound the slope; and came upon a rock-cut road leading to anatalier, where "Marú" has been spalled from the stone in situ. Some specimens had a light-bluish tinge, as if stained by cobalt, a metal found in several slags; and there were veins ofcrystalline amethyst-quartz, coloured, said the engineer bychlorure of silver (?). The filons and filets cut the granite inall directions; and the fiery action of frequent trap-dykes hadtorn the ground-rock to tatters. The western side ofEl-Kutayyifah also showed modern ruins. 

The guides reported, as usual when too late, that to thewest-south-west lies a Nakb, called Abú'l Marwah ("Father of theQuartz-place"), whose waters flow viâ the Mutadán to the ‘Amúdvalley. For some days I had cold shudders lest this Pass, thusleft unvisited, might be the Zúl-Marwah, the classical"Móchoura, " one of the objects of our Expedition. The alarmproved, however, as will be seen, false. A Bedawi youth alsovolunteered a grand account of three "written stones;" a builtwell surrounded by broken quartz; and, a little off the road fromEl-Kutayyifah to Umm Ámil, the remains of El-Dayr ("theConvent"). As Leake well knew, the latter is "a name which isoften indiscriminately applied by the Arabs to ancient ruins. "The lad said they were close by, but the Garíb ("near") and theGurayyib ("nearish") of the Midianite much resemble the EgyptianFellah's Taht el-Wish, "Under the face"--we should say "nose"--orTaht el-Ka'b, "Under the heel. " They may mean a handful of miles. As he refused to guide us, we secured the services of an oldshepherd, who, objecting to sleep in camp, caused abundanttrouble and delay next morning. 

From this divide two roads lead to the ruins of Umm Ámil: onemakes a considerable detour up a branch-valley in order to avoidan ugly Pass on the direct line. I again refused the camel-menpermission to proceed by the indirect route, well knowing thatthey would do their best to miss us. On March 4th, at six a. M. , along descent and a similar rise led us to a Col, which presentlybecame a broad open plain, 2100 feet above sea-level (aner. 28. 85). Tents were scattered about the valleys; the lads tendedtheir goats, and we greatly admired one fellow who had fallenasleep in the hot ascending steams. Here the old guide halted us, and declared that on the top of the dark trap-block the left(south) was a Mashghal, or "work-place, " with a strew of quartzand nothing else. Thus ended the "built well. " Descending to alower plane, bounded in front by low rolling hills, I sentLieutenant Amir to examine the "Convent" and the "writtenstones. " He came up with us at the halt; having been led over arough divide by an abominable path; and he had seen only a fewruined heaps and three Arab Wusúm. Moreover, he had not dared toshow disappointment before the old shepherd, who would probablyhave bolted in fear, and left him to find his own way. 

Meanwhile the caravan continued its course down the broad smoothWady Ruways, on whose left side was a large atelier, with brokenwalls and spalled quartz of the Negro variety. Here we found, forthe first time, the handmills made of the hardest grey granite, so beautifully worked further south; they explained the fine andcarefully polished tube which had been brought to the firstExpedition at Zibá. [EN#10] Several of these articles were all butwhole, an exception in this land of "‘clasts. " We then struckover the stony divide to the left, towards a fine landmark--aKhitm, or "block, " shaped like a seal cut en cabochon: its nameis the barbarous sounding Khurm el-Badaríyyah. During the ascent, which was easy, we passed a second strew and scatter of the whitestone broken into small pieces. From the Col, reached at 9. 45a. M. , a descent, vile for camels not for mules, presently landedus in the Wady Umm Ámil. The left bank of the hideous narrowgorge showed a line of wells or water-pits, made, said Furayj, bythe Mutakaddimín (veteres), --the Ancients who were probablyMedićvals. Crossing the torrent-gully we left on its right bankthe ruins of large works, especially the upper parallelogram. After a thirteen miles' ride we halted at 10. 40 a. M. Under a rockon the left side, opposite three couthless heaps of water-rolledstones surrounded by fine quartz. By far the poorest thing we hadyet seen, this "town" had been grandiosely described to the firstExpedition at Zibá. Many blessings were heaped upon the head ofÁmil and his mother: the name, however, as the Sayyid suggested, is evidently a corruption of Mu'ámil--"the workman, theemployee. "[EN#11] I would conjecture that here the slave-minerswere stationed, Old Zibá being the master's abode: our caravanentitled it El-Lomán--"the bagnio, the prison for galériens. " Onthe coast-town I procured some specimens of heavy red copperwhich had been dug out of a ruined furnace; the metal isadmirable, and it retrieves to a certain extent the lostreputation of Umm Ámil. 

At noon we resumed a hot ride down the ugly, rocky watercourse, both of whose banks showed long lines of ruins. Presently, crossing a divide marked by two stone-heaps, we fell into thebroader but equally unpicturesque Wady Salmá. It is on about thesame parallel as Ziba' (north lat. 27° 20'); and more than theusual allowance for the error of low latitude must be admitted ifwe would identify it with the Mediterranean ofPtolemy (vi. 7), , in north lat. 260°, or fifteenmiles south of Sóaka. 

Wady Salmá is the smallest and the northernmost of the threebasins which we have just visited; the central being the Dámah, and the southern Wady Shaghab-Aslah-Aznab. Steaming southwards weshall note the mouths of all these watercourses. We presentlypassed on the right bank the debouchure of the Wady Ruways, andleft there a guard to direct the caravan, in case it shoulddisobey orders, and march up to Umm Ámil. Here the valley gaveforage to a herd of milch-camels, apparently unguarded; each hadher foal, some newborn, others dating from January or February. After one hour and forty-five minutes (= six miles) we camped onthe fine sands that floor the dull line hemmed in by tall massesof red and green trap. The adjacent scatter of Arab wells in thebed is known as the Má el-Badí'ah. I carefully inquiredconcerning ruins in the neighbourhood; and we climbed thetorrent-sides to command a (very limited) bird's-eye view of thehills. According to the guides, there are no remains of the "oldones" nearer than Umm Ámil

Setting out early next morning (5. 45 a. M. , March 5th), after halfan hour down the Wady Salmá, we saw its lower course becoming amere gorge, constricted by two opposite rocks. On the left bank, above this narrow, lies a group of Arab graves, which may havebeen built upon older foundations. The right side here receivesthe Wady Haraymal ("Little Peganum-plant"), the Haráímil of thebroad-speaking Bedawin. As we struck up its dull ascent, thesouthern form of the Shárr-giant suddenly broke upon us, allglorious in his morning robes of ethereal gauzy pink. Theforeshortened view, from the south as well as the north, shows acompact prism-formed mass which has been compared with aniceberg. The main peak, Abú Shenázir, here No. 4 from the north, proudly bears a mural crown of granite towers, which it hidesfrom El-Muwaylah; and the southern end, a mere vanishing ridge atthis angle, but shown en face to the seaboard abreast of it, breaks into three distinctly marked bluffs and heads. [EN#12]

A divide then led upwards and downwards to the Wady Abá Rikayy, remarkable only for warm pools, and crystal-clear runners, springing from the sole. The fringings of white show the presenceof salt; the shallows are covered with the greenest mosses, andbeetles chase one another over the depths where the waters sleep. The lower course takes the name of Wady Kifáfí, and dischargesinto the sea north of the Wady Salmá, with which it haserroneously been united, as in Niebuhr's Selmá wa Kafâfa. According to the Kátib Chelebi, who, over two centuries ago, madethe "Kabr Shaykh el-Kifáfí" the second pilgrim-station south ofEl-Muwaylah, a certain Bedawi chief, El-Kifáfí, was killed with aspear, and his tomb became a place of pious visitation. It issaid still to exist between the Wadys Salmá and Kifáfí. A thirddivide to the north led along the eastern flank of the Jebel AbúRísh, which exposes its head to the sea; and, reaching the Col, we had the pleasure of once more greeting the blue cove thatforms the port of Zibá. 

We then descended into the Wady Sidrah, whose left bank is formedby the Safrá Zibá--"the Yellow (hill) of Zibá. " This smalloutlying peak is clad in the gaudiest of colours, especially avivid citron-yellow, set off by red and rusty surroundings, whichare streaked with a dead chalky-white. The citizens declare thatit is absolutely useless, because it does not supply sulphur. During our day's halt at Zibá, M. Marie brought from it quartz ofseveral kinds; the waxy, the heat-altered, and the blue, stainedwith carbonate of copper. Possibly this metal may be abundant ata lower horizon

The "Valley of the (one) Jujube-tree, " after narrowing to a stonygut, suddenly flares out into the Wady Zibá, the vulgar feature ofthese regions, provided with the normal "Gate" some three hundredyards broad. Beyond it, the flat surrounding the head of the cove isremarkably well grown with palms, clumps of the Daum, and scattereddate-trees, of which one is walled round. Hence I am disposed toconsider Zibá the, or Phoenicon Vicus, of Ptolemy: althoughhe places it in north lat. 26° 20', or between Sharm Dumayghah andEl-Wijh, when it lies in north lat. 27° 20'. I have alreadyprotested against the derivation of the word--which is written"Dhoba" by Wallin, "Deba" by Niebuhr, and "Zibber" by theHydrographic Chart--proposed by my learned friend Sprenger. [EN#13]His theory was probably suggested by El-Yákút (iii. 464), who, inthe twelfth century, describes "Dhabba" as "a village on the coast, opposite to which is a settlement with flowing water, called Badá:the two are separated by seventy miles. " An older name for thestation is Bir el-Sultáni--the "Well of the Sultán" (Selim?): weshall presently inspect these remains. Itineraries also give Kabrel-Tawáshi, "the Eunuch's Tomb;" and this we still find near thepalms at the head of the inner baylet. It is a square measuring sixpaces each way, mud and coralline showing traces of plaster outside. Like Wellsted (II. X. ) we failed to discover any sign of the Birkat("tank") mentioned in a guide-book which Burckhardt quotes; nor hadthe citizens ever heard of a "reservoir. "

The camping-ground of the pilgrims lies between the "Gate" andthe cove-head. Around the wells sat at squat a small gathering ofthe filthy "Moghrebin" (Allah yakharrib-hum!). About 260 of theserufffians were being carried gratis, by some charitable merchant, in a Sambúk that lay at the harbour-mouth. A party had latelyslaughtered a camel, of course not their own property; and yetthey wondered that the Bedawin shoot them. They showed theirinsolence by threatening with an axe the dog Juno, when shesportively sallied out to greet them; and were highly offendedbecause, in view of cholera and smallpox, I stationed sentries tokeep them at a distance. Had there been contagious disease amongthem, it would have spread in no time. They haunted the wells, which were visited all day by women driving asses from thesettlement; even the single old beggar of Zibá--unfailing sign ofcivilization--was here; and the black tents of the Arabs, whograzed their flocks at the cove-head, lay within easy shot ofinfection. On the evening of the next day, when the Sambúk madesail, the shouting and screaming, the brawling, cudgelling, andfighting, heard a mile off, reminded me of the foul company ofMaghrabís on board the Golden Wire. 

"Sultán Selim's Well" has now grown to four, all large andmasonry-lined. That to the south-east is dry; travellers areconfined to the western, whose strong coping they have managed totear down; whilst the northern shows hard old kerb-stones, deeplygrooved and rope-channelled like that of Beersheba. Webreakfasted at the head of the inner bay, whilst the Sayyid rodeforward to meet his brother Mahmúd, who had kindly brought us thenews from El-Muwaylah. Here we could see the townlet covering alow point projecting into the Sharm; a few large and some smalltenements formed the body, whilst the head was the little Burjbuilt, some fourteen years ago, upon the tall sea-bank to thenorth. It bore, by way of welcome, the Viceroy's flag. 

The camp was pitched upon the northern shore of the inner cove, behind the new town, and sheltered by the tall sea-cliff: herestood Old Zibá, whose stones, buried for ages under the sand, arenow dug up to build its successor. I thought better of thesettlement and of the port after visiting them a second time. Wehad looked forward to it even as to a petit Paris: so Damascusand the Syrian cities appear centres of civilization to Westernscoming from the East--not from the West. It is far superior, especially in the article water, to El-Muwaylah; it exportscharcoal in large quantities, and it does a thriving businesswith the Bedawi. Here are signs of a pier, and a mosque is to bebuilt. The fish is excellent and abundant; lobsters are caught bynight near the reef, and oysters in the bay when the tide is out. We succeeded, at last, in having our batterie de cuisine properlytinned, and we replenished our stores. [EN#14] As at El-‘Akabah, "Hashísh" may be bought in any quantity, but no ‘Ráki--hence, perhaps, the paleness and pastiness of the local complexion--andyet our old acquaintance, Mohammed el-Musalmáni, is a Copt whofinds it convenient to be a Moslem. He aided us in collectingcuriosities, especially a chalcedony (agate) intended for atalisman and roughly inscribed in Kufic characters, archaic andpointed like Bengali, with the Koranic chapter (xcii. ) thattestifies the Unity, "Kul, Huw' Allah, " etc. As regards the port, Wellsted (Il. X. ) is too severe upon it: "At Sherm Dhobá theanchorage is small and inconvenient, and could only be madeavailable for boats or small vessels. " Dredging the sand-bar andcutting a passage in the soft coralline reef will give excellentshelter and, some say, a depth of seventeen fathoms. 

Our first care was to walk straight into the sea, travellingclothes and all. I then received the notables, including MohammedSelámah of El-Wijh, and at once began to inquire about the Jebelel-Fayrúz. The chief trader pleaded ignorance: he was a stranger, a new-comer; he had never been out of the settlement. The othersopposed to me hard and unmitigated Iying: they knew nothing aboutturquoises; there were no such stones; the mines were exhausted. 

And yet I knew that this coast is visited for turquoises byEuropeans; and that the gem has been, and still is, sold at Suezand Cairo. Mr. Clarke had many uncut specimens at Zagázig, embedded in a dark gangue, which he called "porphyry, " as opposedto the limestone which bears the silicate of copper. Upon ourfirst Expedition, we had noticed a splendid specimen, set in aBedawi matchlock; and the people of El-‘Akabah praised highly theproduce of the Jebel el-Ghál. Lastly, I happened to have heardthat an Arab lately brought to Zibá a turquoise which sold therefor Ł3. Evidently the mine, like the gold-sands before alludedto, would be carefully hidden from us. This reticence explainedhow, on our first visit, the two Staff-officers sent to prospectthe diggings had been misdirected to a block lying north of thetownlet, the "Red Hills, " alias the Jebel el-Shegayg. 

Shortly after I left Egypt an Italian, Sig. F--, returned to Suezfrom El-Muwaylah, with some fine pearls worth each from Ł20 toŁ30, and turquoises which appeared equally good. He was thenbound for Italy, but he intended returning to Midian in a monthor two. These are the men who teach the ready natives the verylatest "dodges;" such as stimulating the peculiar properties ofthe pearl-oyster by inserting grains of sand. 

I also collected notes concerning the ruins of M'jirmah, of whichwe had heard so many tales. The site, they said, is a branch ofthe Wady Azlam, the first of the three marches between Zibá andEl-Wijh, and seven and a half hours' sail along the coast. Thiswatercourse shows, above the modern Hajj-station, the ruins of afort built by Sultán Selim: Wellsted (II. X. ) also mentions acastle lying three miles inland. From the head of the SharmDumayghah, seventy to seventy-two knots south of El-Muwaylah, Shaykh Furayj pointed out to us the pale-blue peaks of the JebelZafar:[EN#15] in the upper part of its Wady, the ‘Amúd Zafar, asouthern branch valley of the Azlam, lies the ruin. He made itsix hours' march from the seaboard. It was an ancient gold-mine(?), whose house-foundations and a "well with steps" stillremain. "M'jirmah, " which must not be confounded with the "UmmJirmah, " an atelier that we shall visit to-morrow, has beenidentified with the (Rhaunathi Pagus) of Ptolemy(north lat. 25° 40'). We will return to this subject whensteaming down coast. 

Our day of rest ended, at seven p. M. , with a heavy storm of windand rain from the north: the sun had been unusually hot for somedays, and the sky looked ugly in the evening. As usual, allassured us that the clouds contained wind, not rain. Despitewhich, when the mess-tent had been nearly blown down, owing toour men being unwilling to leave their warm retreats, a heavydrenching downfall set in, and continued till eleven p. M. After ashort lull, wind and rain again raged at midnight; and then thegale gradually blew itself out. The next two mornings weredelightfully brisk and bracing; and deep puddles dotted therocks. 

On March 7th the caravan marched straight northwards, by theHajj-road, along the shore to its camping-ground, an affair oftwo hours, while M. Marie and I set off for the turquoise mine. Furayj, who had never passed that way, engaged as guide oneSulaym el-Makrafi; and this old dromedary-rider's son had beensent on to bring into camp all the Fayruz he could find. Crossingat six a. M. The broad pilgrim-track, we struck eastward at aplace where the Secondary gypsum subtends the old corallinecliff. After three-quarters of an hour, we traversed the WadyZahakán, the southernmost Pass over the Shárr (proper); andpresently we ascended a branch that falls into the right bank. Aswe advanced, it became a rock-walled, stonesoled tunnel; winding, contracting and widening, rising and flattening, and generallyinteresting, compared with the dull flat breadth of such featuresas the Wady Salmá. The overfalls of rock and the unfriendlythorn-trees, selfishly taking up all the room, necessitatefrequent zigzags up and down the rocky, precipitous banks. Aftera number of divides we entered the Wady Háskshah, which was widerand good for riding; and at 8. 30 a. M. We passed into the Wady UmmJirmah. 

In this broad basin we found none of the ruins so often reported;but immense quantities of broken quartz showed the Mashghal oratelier. The material was distinguished, from all the outcropshitherto observed, by its pretty pink, stained with oxide ofiron: it appeared in large ramifications mostly strikingeast-west, and in little pitons dotting the valley sole andsides. A subsequent visit to Wady Umm Jirmah found many furnacessurrounded by well-worked scoriae; of these, specimens weresecured. 

After another half-hour, we dismounted at the watershed of theWady el-Ghál, where the old guide lost no time in losing hishead. The Jebel el-Ghál, whose folds fall into its watercourse, is a detached block, rising nearly due south of the "Sharp Peak, "as the Chart calls Abú Kusayb, the northernmost horn of theShárr; while the Ghál cove, breaking the sea-cliff, bears 270°(mag. ) from the summit. The hill, which may measure 250 feetabove sea-level (aner. 29. 75), is composed of porphyritic trapand of the hardest felspars, veined with chocolate-colouredquartz, the true gangue. While we examined the formation, Furayjand old Sulaym, who became more and more "moony, " ransacked theblock in all directions, and notably failed to find a trace ofmining. Evidently Athor, the genius of the "Turquoise Mountain, "was not to be conquered by a coup de main; so I determined totire her out. 

After building a stone-man on the finial of the Jebel el-Ghál, and a short rest in the north-western Wady, we remounted andstruck seawards. Some ugly divides led us, after half an hour, toa broad Fiumara, well grown with palm-bush, the veritable Wadyel-Ghál. From this point a total of four miles, and a grand totalof fourteen, led us to the camp: it had been pitched at theMahattat el-Gha'l, on the north bank, where the "winter-torrent, "falling into the cove, has broken through the sea cliff. 

Here the best of news was in store for us. Lieutenant Yusuf, whohad this morning rejoined the Expedition, brought our mails fromthe Sambúk, which I had ordered by letter at El-‘Akabah; andreported that his Highness's frigate Sinnár, an old friend, wouldrelieve the lively Mukhbir in taking us to our last journeysouthwards. Rations for men and mules, and supplies forourselves, all were coming. We felt truly grateful to the Viceroyand the Prince Minister for the gracious interest they had takenin the Expedition; and we looked forward with excitement to theproper finish of our labours. Without the third march, theexploration of Midian would have been Abtar, as the Arabs say, "tail-less;" that is, lame and impotent in point of conclusion. 

But I would not be beaten by the enemy upon the subject of thelapis Pharanitis mine. During the course of the day, a JeráfínBedawi, Selím ibn Musallim, brought in scoriae of copper andiron; and on the morrow I sent him as guide to Lieutenant Yusuf, with an escort of two soldiers and eight quarrymen on sevencamels. After three days' absence (March 8--10) the officerrejoined us and reported as follows:--

Leaving the Mahattat el-Ghál, he rode up its watercourse, andthen turned southwards into the long Wady Umm Jirmah. After sevenmiles and a half (= direct five and three-quarters), he came uponthe Jebel el-Fayrúz. It is a rounded eminence of no great height, showing many signs of work, especially three or four cuttingssome twenty metres deep. A hillock to the north-west supplied thescorić before mentioned. Lieutenant Yusuf blasted thechocolate-coloured quartzose rock in four places, filled as manysacks, and struck the pilgrim-road in the Wady el-Mu'arrash, leaving its red block, the Hamrá el-Mu'arrash, to the left. Hisspecimens were very satisfactory; except to the learnedgeologists of the Citadel, Cairo, who pronounced them to becarbonate of copper! Dr. L. Karl Moser, of Trieste, examined themand found crystals of turquoise, or rather "johnite, " as Dana hasit, embedded in or spread upon the quartz. One specimen, moreover, contained silver. So much for the Zibá or southernturquoise-diggings. 

Our journey ended on March 8th with a dull ride along theHajj-road northwards. Passing the creek Abú Sharír, which, likemany upon this coast, is rendered futile by a wall of coral reef, we threaded a long flat, and after two hours (= seven miles) weentered a valley where the Secondary formation again showed itsdébris. Here is the Mahattat el-Husan ("the Stallion's Leap"), alarge boulder lying to the left of the track, and pitted withholes which a little imagination may convert into hoof-prints. The name of the noble animal was El-Mashhúr; that of its owneris, characteristically enough, forgotten by the Arabs: it livedin the Days of Ignorance; others add, more vaguely still, whenthe Beni ‘Ukbah, the lords of the land, were warring with theBaliyy. The gorge was then a mere cutting, blocked up by thisrock. El-Mashhúr "negotiated" it, alighting upon the surface likea Galway hunter taking a stone wall; and carried to Wady Tiryamits rider, whose throat was incontinently cut by the foeman inpursuit. The legend is known to all, and the Bedawin still scrapeaway the sands which threaten to bury the boulder: it has itsvalue, showing that in regions where the horse is now unknown, where, in fact, nothing but a donkey can live, noble blood wasonce bred. The same remark is made by Professor Palmer ("TheDesert of the Exodus, " p. 42) concerning the Mangaz Hisán AbúZená ("Leap of the Stallion of the Father of Adultery"), twoheaps of stone near the Sinaitic Wady Gharandal. There, however, the animal is cursed, while here it is blessed: perhaps, also, the Midianite tradition may descend from a source which, stillolder, named the . Is this too far-fetched? And yet, peradventure, it may be true. 

We then fell into the Wady Jibbah; passed the Jebel el-Kibrít, examined M. Philipin's work, and, led over a very vile and verylong "short cut, " found ourselves once more on board the Mukhbir. 

 Note on the Supplies Procurable at Zibá. 

The chief stores are:--

Rice (good Yemani), per Kis, or bag of five and a half Kaylah(each twenty-one Ratl = eighteen pounds), four to six dollars. 

Durrah (Sorghum), per Ardebb (each = twelve Kaylah), seven and ahalf to eight dollars. 

Dukhn (millet), not common, per Ardebb, eight dollars. 

Wheat, always procurable, per Ardebb, ten to twelve dollars. 

Barley, always procurable, per Ardebb, five to six dollars. 

‘Adas (lentils, Revalenta Arabica), per Ardebb, ten to twelve

Samn (liquified butter), per Ratl, seven and a half to eightdollars. 

Coffee (green), per pound, eighteen-pence. 

‘Ajwah (pressed dates), 100 to 110 piastres per Kantar (= 100Ratl). 

Eggs, thirty-five to the shilling. 

It is generally possible to buy small quantities of Hummus(lupins or chick-peas), Kharru'b (carob-pods), "hot" and coarsetobacco for the Arabs, and cigarette-paper, matches, etc. 

 Chapter XIII. A Week Around and upon the Shárr Mountain–Résumé of the March Through Eastern or Central Midian. 

For months the Jebel Shárr, the grand block which backsEl-Muwaylah, had haunted us, starting up unexpectedly in alldirections, with its towering heads, that shifted shape andcolour from every angle, and with each successive change ofweather. We could hardly leave unexplored the classical "HipposMons, " the Moslem's El-Ishárah ("the Landmark"), and theBullock's Horns of the prosaic British tar. [EN#16] The few vacantdays before the arrival of the Sinnár offered an excellentopportunity for studying the Alpine ranges of maritime Midian. Their stony heights, they said, contain wells and water inabundance, with palms, remains of furnaces, and otherattractions. Every gun was brought into requisition, by tales ofleopard and ibex, the latter attaining the size of bullocks (!)and occasionally finding their way to the fort:--it was curiousto hear our friends, who, as usual, were great upon "le shport, "gravely debating whether it would be safe to fire upon leléopard. I was anxious to collect specimens of botany and naturalhistory from an altitude hitherto unreached by any traveller inWestern Arabia; and, lastly, there was geography as well asmineralogy to be done. 

The Hydrographic Chart gives the Mountain a maximum of ninethousand[EN#17] feet, evidently a clerical error oftenrepeated--really those Admiralty gentleman are too incurious:Wellsted, who surveyed it, remarks (II. X. ), "The height of themost elevated peak was found to be 6500 feet, and it obtainedfrom us the appellation of ‘Mowilabh High Peak"'--when there arenative names for every head. We had been convinced that thelesser is the true measure, by our view from the Hismá plateau, 3800 feet above sea-level. Again, the form, the size, and theinclination of the noble massif are wrongly laid down by thehydrographers. It is a compact block, everywhere rising abruptlyfrom low and sandy watercourses, and completely detached from itsneighbours by broad Wadys--the Surr to the north and east, whilesouthwards run the Kuwayd and the Zahakán. The huge long-ovalprism measures nineteen and a half by five miles (= ninety-sevenand a half square miles of area); and its lay is 320° (mag. ), thus deflected 40° westward of the magnetic north. The generalappearance, seen in profile from the west, is a Pentedactylon, acentral apex, with two others on each side, tossed, as it were, to the north and south, and turning, like chiens de faďence, their backs upon one another. 

Moreover, the Chart assigns to its "Mount Mowilah" only two greatculminations--"Sharp Peak, 6330 feet, " to the north; and south ofit, "High Peak, 9000. " The surveyors doubtless found difficultyin obtaining the Bedawi names for the several features, which areunknown to the citizens of the coast; but they might easily haveconsulted the only authorities, the Jeráfín-Huwaytát, who grazetheir flocks and herds on and around the mountain. As usual inArabia, the four several main "horns" are called after theFiumaras that drain them. The northernmost is the Abú Gusayb(Kusayb) or Ras el-Gusayb (the "Little Reed"), a unity composedof a single block and of three knobs in a knot; the tallest ofthe latter, especially when viewed from the south, resembles anerect and reflexed thumb--hence our "Sharp Peak. " Follows Ummel-Furút (the "Mother of Plenty"), a mural crest, a quoin-shapedwall, cliffing to the south: the face, perpendicular where itlooks seawards, bears a succession of scars, upright gashes, thework of wind and weather; and the body which supports it is aslope disposed at the natural angle. An innominatus, in the shapeof a similar quoin, is separated by a deep Col, apparently atorrent-bed, from a huge Beco de Papagaio--the "Parrot's Bill" socommon in the Brazil. This is the Abú Shenázir or Shaykhánib (the"Father of Columns"); and, as if two names did not suffice, ithas a third, Ras el-Huwayz ("of the Little Cistern"). It is our"High Peak, " the most remarkable feature of the sea-façade, evenwhen it conceals the pair of towering pillars that showconspicuously to the north and south. From the beak-shaped apexthe range begins to decline and fall; there is little to noticein the fourth horn, whose unimportant items, the Ras Lahyánah, the Jebel Maí'h, and the Umm Gisr (Jisr), end the wall. Each hasits huge white Wady, striping the country in alternation withdark-brown divides, and trending coastwards in the usual network. 

The material of the four crests is the normal grey granite, enormous lumps and masses rounded by degradation; all chasms andnaked columns, with here and there a sheet burnished by ancientcataracts, and a slide trickling with water, unseen in the shadeand flashing in the sun like a sheet of crystal. The granite, however, is a mere mask or excrescence, being everywhere basedupon and backed by the green and red plutonic traps which haveenveloped it. And the prism has no easy inland slopes, as a firstglance suggests; instead of being the sea-wall of a greatplateau, it falls abruptly to the east as well as to the west. The country behind it shows a perspective of high and low hills, lines of dark rock divided from one another by Wadys of the usualexaggerated size. Of these minor heights only one, the Jebelel-Sahhárah looks down upon the sea, rising between theDibbagh-Kh'shabríyyah block to the north, and the Shárr to thesouth. Beyond the broken eastern ground, the ruddy Hismá and thegloomy Harrah form the fitting horizon. 

After this much for geography, we may view the monarch ofMidianite mountains in the beauty and the majesty of hispicturesque form. Seen from El-Muwaylah, he is equallymagnificent in the flush of morning, in the still of noon, and inthe evening glow. As the rays, which suggested the obelisk, areshooting over the southern crests, leaving the basement blue witha tint between the amethyst and the lapis lazuli, its northernthird lies wrapped in a cloak of cold azure grey, and its centrallength already dons a half-light of warmer hue. Meanwhile, theside next the sun is flooded with an aerial aureole of subtlemist, a drift of liquid gold, a gush of living light, ripplingfrom the unrisen orb, decreasing in warmth and brilliancy, palingand fading and waxing faint with infinite gradations proportionedto the increase of distance. Again, after the clear broodingsheen of day has set off the "stark strength and grandeur ofrock-form contrasted with the brilliancy and sprightliness ofsea, " the sinking sun paints the scene with the most gorgeous ofblazonings. The colours of the pale rock-skeleton are so faintthat there is nothing to interfere with the perfect developmentof atmospheric effects: it is a white sheet spread to catch thegrand illumination, lambent lights of saffron and peach-blossomand shades of purple and hyacinth. As indescribably lovely is theafter-glow, the zodiacal light which may have originated thepyramid; the lively pink reflection from the upper atmosphere;the vast variety of tints with which the greens and the reds, thepurples and the fiery crimsons of the western sky tincture thereceptive surface of the neutral-hued granites; and thechameleon-shiftings of the dying day, as it sinks into the armsof night. Nor less admirable are the feats of the fairyRefraction. The mighty curtain seems to rise and fall as if bymagic: it imitates, as it were, the framework of man. In earlymorning the dancing of the air adds many a hundred cubits to itsapparent stature: it is now a giant, when at midnight, after theequipoise of atmospheric currents, it becomes a dwarf replica ofits former self. 

 * * * * * *

I had neglected to order overnight the camels from El-Muwaylah, apenny-wise proceeding which delayed our departure. It was nearlynine a. M. (March 13th) before we left the Mukhbir, whoseunhappies still sighed and yearned for the civilization anddissipation of Suez; landed at the head of the Sharm Yáhárr, andmarched up the Wady Hárr. We were guided by two Jeráfín, Sulaymanibn Musallim and Farj ibn ‘Awayz; the former a model hill-man, asturdy, thick-legged, huge-calved, gruff-voiced, full-beardedfellow, hot-tempered, good-humoured, and renowned as anibex-hunter. His gun, marked "Lazari Coitinaz, " was along-barrelled Spanish musket, degraded to a matchlock: it hadoften changed hands, probably by theft, and the present ownerdeclared that he had bought it for seventy dollars--nearly Ł15!Yet its only luxury was the bottom of a breechloader brasscartridge, inlaid and flanked by the sharp incisors of the littleWabar, or mountain coney. These Bedawin make gunpowder forthemselves; they find saltpetre in every cavern, and they buyfrom Egypt the sulphur which is found in their own hills. 

After a few minutes we left the Hárr, which drains the tallest ofthe inland hillock-ranges, and the red block "Hamrá el-Maysarah;"and we struck south-east into the Wady Sanawíyyah. It is a vulgarvalley with a novelty, the Tamrat Faraj. This cairn ofbrick-coloured boulders buttressing the right bank has, or issaid to have, the Memnonic property of emitting sounds--Yarinn isthe Bedawi word. The boomings and bellowings are said to beloudest at sunrise and sunset. The "hideous hum" of suchsubterraneous thunderings is alluded to by all travellers in theDalmatian Island of Melada, and in the Narenta Valley. The marvelhas been accounted for by the escape of imprisoned air unequallyexpanded, but "a veil of mystery hangs over the whole. "[EN#18]The valley-sides of dark trap were striped with white veins ofheat-altered argil; the sole with black magnetic sand; andpatches of the bed were buttercup-yellow with the Handán(dandelion), the Cytisus, and the Zaram (Panicum turgidum) lovedby camels. Their jaundiced hue contrasted vividly with the redand mauve blossoms of the boragine El-Kahlá, the blue floweretsof the Lavandula (El-Zayti), and the delicate green of theuseless[EN#19] asphodel (El-Borag), which now gave a faint andshadowy aspect of verdure to the slopes. Although the rise wasinconsiderable, the importance of the vegetation palpablydecreased as we advanced inland. 

After four miles we reached the Wady-head, and wasted a couple ofhours awaiting the camels that carried our supplies. The paththen struck over a stony divide, with the Hamrá to the left ornorth, and on the other side the Hamrá el-Mu'arrash, madefamiliar to us by our last march. The latter ends in an isolatedpeak, the Jebel Gharghúr, which, on our return, was mistaken forthe sulphur-hill of Jibbah. Presently we renewed acquaintancewith the Wady el-Bayzá, whose lower course we had crossed southof Sharm Yáhárr: here it is a long and broad, white andtree-dotted expanse, glaring withal, and subtending all thissection of the Shárr's sea-facing base. We reached, after a totalof eight miles, the Jibál el-Kawáim, or "the Perpendiculars, " oneof the features which the Bedawin picturesquely call the Auládel-Shárr ("Sons of the Sha'rr"). The three heads, projectedwestwards from the Umm Furút peak and then trending northwards, form a lateral valley, a bay known as Wady el-Káimah. It is apicturesque feature with its dark sands and red grit, while theprofile of No. 3 head, the Káimat Abú Rákí, shows a snub-nosedface in a judicial wig, the trees forming an apology for a beard. I thought of "Buzfuz Bovill. "

We camped early, as the Safh el-Shárr (the "Plain of the Shárr")and the lateral valley were found strewed with quartzes, white, pink, and deep slate-blue. The guides had accidentally mentioneda "Jebel el-Marú, " and I determined to visit it next morning. Thenight was warm and still. The radiation of heat from the hugerock-range explained the absence of cold, so remarkable duringall this excursion--hence the African traveller ever avoidscamping near bare stones. Dew, however, wetted our boxes likethin rain: the meteor, remarked for the first time on March 13th, will last, they say, three months, and will greatly forwardvegetation. It seems to be uncertain, or rather to be influencedby conditions which we had no opportunity of studying: at timesit would be exceptionally heavy, and in other places it wasentirely absent. Before evening new contract-boots, bought fromthe Mukhbir, were distributed to the soldiers and all thequarrymen, who limped painfully on their poor bare feet:--nextday all wore their well-hidden old boots. 

Early on March 14th we ascended the Wady el-Káimah, which showeda singular spectacle, and read us another lecture upon thediversity of formation which distinguishes this region. An abruptturn then led over rough ground, the lower folds of the UmmFurút, where a great granite gorge, the Nakb Abú Shár, ran up toa depression in the dorsum, an apparently practicable Col. Suddenly the rocks assumed the quaintest hues and forms. Thequartz, slaty-blue and black, was here spotted and streaked witha dull, dead white, as though stained by the droppings of myriadbirds: there it lay veined and marbled with the most vivid ofrainbow colours-- reds and purples, greens and yellows, set offby the pale chalky white. Evident signs of work were remarked ina made road running up to the Jebel el-Marú (proper), whosestrike is 38° (mag. ), and whose dip is westward. It is an aręte, a cock's-comb of snowy quartz some sixty feet high by forty-fivebroad at the base; crowning a granitic fold that descendsabruptly, with a deep fall on either side, from the "Mother ofPlenty. " This strangely isolated wall, left standing by thedenudation that swept away the containing stone, had been brokenby perpendicular rifts into four distinct sections; the colourbecame whiter as it neared the coping, and each rock was crownedwith a capping that sparkled like silver in the sudden glance ofthe "cloud-compelling" sun. The sight delighted us; and M. Lacazehere made one of his most effective croquis, showing theexplorers reduced to the size of ants. As yet we had seen nothingof the kind; nor shall we see a similar vein till we reachAbú'l-Marwah, near our farthest southern point. I expected acorresponding formation upon the opposite eastern versant: wefound only a huge crest, a spine of black plutonic rock, intensely ugly and repulsive. As we rode back down the "Valley ofthe Perpendiculars, " the aspect of the Jebel el-Marú wasépâtant--to use another favourite camp-word. Standing sharply outfrom its vague and gloomy background made gloomier by the morningmists, the Col, whose steep rain-cut slopes and sole werescattered with dark trees and darker rocks, this glittering wallbecame the shell of an enchanted castle in Gustave Doré. 

Returning to our old camping-ground after a ride of three hoursand thirty minutes (= nine miles), we crossed two short divides, and descended the Wady el-Kusayb, which gives a name to "SharpPeak. " Here a few formless stone-heaps and straggling bushesrepresented the ruins, the gardens of palms, and the bullrushesof the Bedawi shepherd lads. [EN#20] Our tents had been pitched inthe rond-point of the Wady Surr, which before had given ushospitality (February 19th), on a Safh or high bouldery ledge ofthe left bank, where it receives the broad Kusayb watercourse. The day had been sultry; the sun was a "rain sun, " while theclouds massed thick to the south-west; and at night the lamps ofheaven shone with a reddish, lurid light. The tent-pegs wereweighted with camel-boxes against the storm; nevertheless, ourmess-tent was levelled in a moment by the howlingnorth-easter--warm withal--which, setting in about midnight, madeall things uncomfortable enough. 

Whilst the caravan was ordered to march straight up the nobleWady Surr, we set off next morning at six a. M. Up the Wady Malíh, the north-eastern branch of the bulge in the bed. A few Arabtents were scattered about the bushes above the mouth; and amongthe yelping curs was a smoky-faced tyke which might have beenEskimo-bred:--hereabouts poor ‘Brahim had been lost, and was notfated to be found. A cross-country climb led to the Jebel Malíh, whose fame for metallic wealth gave us the smallestexpectations--hitherto all our discoveries came by surprise. Acareful examination showed nothing at all; but a few daysafterwards glorious specimens of cast copper were brought in, theBedawi declaring that he had found them amongst the adjoininghills. In the re-entering angles of the subjacent Wady the thrustof a stick is everywhere followed by the reappearance ofstored-up rain, and the sole shows a large puddle of brackish andpolluted water. Perhaps the Malayh of the Bedawin may mean "thesalt" (Málih), not "the pleasant" (Malíh). Malíh, or Mallih, isalso the name of a plant, the Reaumuria vernice of Forskâl. 

Resuming our ride up the torrent-bed, and crossing to the WadyDaumah (of the "Single Daum-palm"), we dragged our mules down aladder of rock and boulder, the left bank of the upper Surr. Thegreat valley now defines, sharply as a knife-cut, thenorthernmost outlines of the Shárr, whose apex, El-Kusayb, towered above our heads. Thorn-trees are abundant; fan-palm bushgrows in patches; and we came upon what looked like a flowingstream ruffled by the morning breeze: the guides declared that itis a rain-pool, dry as a bone in summer. Presently the rocky bedmade a sharp turn; and its "Gate, " opened upon another widening, the meeting place of four Wadys, the northern being the WadyZibayyib that drains ruddy Abá‘l-bárid. 

After a short halt to examine the rude ruins reported by Mr. Clarke, [EN#21] we resumed the ascent of the Surr, whose left bankstill defines the eastern edge of the Shárr. The latter presentlyputs forth the jagged spine of black and repulsive plutonic rock, which notes the Sha'b Makhúl, the corresponding versant of theNakb Abú Sha'r. The Bedawin, who, as usual, luxuriate innomenclature, distinguish between the eastern and western facesof the same block, and between the Wadys of the scarp and thecounter-scarp. For instance, the eastern front of the Rasel-Kusayb is called Abú Kurayg (Kurayj). This is natural, as theformations, often of a different material, show completelydifferent features. 

A little further on, the continuity of the right bank is brokenby the Wady el-Hámah. It receives the Wady Kh'shabríyyah, which, bifurcating in the upper bed, drains the Dibbagh and the UmmJedayl blocks; and in the fork lie, we were told, the ruins ofEl-Fara', some five hours' march from this section of the Surr. At the confluence of El-Hámah we found the camels grazing and thetents pitched without orders: the two Shaykhs were determined towaste another day, so they were directed to reload while webreakfasted. Everything was in favour of a long march; the dusty, gusty north-easter had blown itself out in favour of a pleasantsoutherly wind, a sea breeze deflected from the west. 

After marching three miles we camped at the foot of the ridge tobe ascended next morning: the place is called Safhat el-Mu'ayrahfrom a slaty schistose hill on the eastern bank. The guidesdeclared that the only practicable line to the summit was fromthis place; and that the Sha'bs (Cols) generally cannot beclimbed even by the Arabs--I have reason to believe the reverse. Musallim, an old Bedawi, brought, amongst other specimens fromthe adjacent atelier, the Mashghal el-Mu'ayrah, a bright beadabout the size of No. 5 shot: in the evening dusk it was takenfor gold, and it already aroused debates concerning the properdirection of the promised reward, fifty dollars. The morninglight showed fine copper. Here free metal was distinctlytraceable in the scorić, and it was the first time that we hadseen slag so carelessly worked. Not a little merriment was causedby the ostentatious display of "gold-stones, " marked by M. Philipin's copper-nailed boots. Sulaymán, the Bedawi, had killeda Wabar, whose sadly mutilated form appeared to be that of theSyrian hill coney: these men split the bullet into four; "pot" atthe shortest distance, and, of course, blow to pieces any smallgame they may happen to hit. 

Early on March 16th we attacked the Shárr in a general directionfrom north to south, where the ascent looked easy enough. On theleft bank a porphyritic block, up whose side a mule can beridden, is disposed in a slope of the palest and most languid ofgreens, broken by piles of black rock so regular as to appearartificial. This step leads to a horizontal crest, a broken wallforming its summit: it is evidently an outlier; and experienceasked, What will be behind it? The more distant plane showed onlythe heads of the Shenázir or "Pins, " the two quaint columns whichare visible as far as the Shárr itself. This lower block isbounded, north and south, by gorges; fissures that date from thebirth of the mountain, deepened by age and raging torrents:apparently they offered no passage. In the former direction yawnsthe Rushúh Abú Tinázib, so called from its growth--theTanzub-tree[EN#22] (Sodada decidua); and in the latter the ShábUmm Khárgah (Khárjah). I should have preferred a likely lookingNakb, south of this southern gorge, but the Bedawin, andespecially Abú Khartúm, who had fed his camels and sheep upon themountain, overruled me. 

The ascent of the outlier occupied three very slow hours, spentmostly in prospecting and collecting. At nine a. M. We stood 3200feet above sea-level (aner. 26. 79), high enough to make our tentslook like bits of white macadam. What most struck us was theincreased importance of the vegetation, both in quantity andquality; the result, doubtless, of more abundant dew and rain, aswell as of shade from each passing mist-cloud. The view formed astartling contrast of fertility and barrenness. At every hundredyards the growths of the plain became more luxuriant in the richhumus filling the fissures, and, contrary to the general rule, the plants, especially the sorrel (Rumex) and the dandelion(Taraxacum), instead of dwindling, gained in stature. Thestrong-smelling Ferula looked like a bush, and the Sarh grew intoa tree: the Ar'ar, [EN#23] a homely hawthorn (hawthorn-leavedRhus), whose appearance was a surprise, equalled the Cratśgus ofSyria; and the upper heights must have been a forest of finejunipers (Habíbah = Juniperus Phśnicea), with trunks thick as aman's body. The guides spoke of wild figs, but we failed to findthem. Our chasseurs, who had their guns, eagerly conned over thetraces of ibex and hyenas, and the earths, as well as the largeround footprints, of un léopard; but none of the larger animalswere seen. The Bedawi matchlock has made them wary; chance mightgive a shot the first day: on the other hand, skill might bebaffled for a month or two--I passed six weeks upon theAnti-Libanus before seeing a bear. The noble Shinnár-partridgeagain appeared; an eagle's feather lay on the ground; two whitepapillons and one yellow butterfly reminded me of the CamaronesMountain; the wild bee and the ladybird-like Ba'úzah stuck to usas though they loved us; and we were pestered by the attentionsof the common fly. The Egyptian symbol for "Paul Pry" is supposedto denote an abundance of organic matter: it musters strongthroughout Midian, even in the dreariest wastes; and itaccompanies us everywhere, whole swarms riding upon our backs. 

The only semblance of climbing was over the crest of brown, burnished, and quartzless traps. Even there the hands were hardlyrequired, although our poor feet regretted the want ofSpartelles. [EN#24] Here the track debouched upon an invertedarch, with a hill, or rather a tall and knobby outcrop of rock, on either flank of the keystone. The inland or eastward view wasa map of the region over which we had travelled; a panorama oflittle chains mostly running parallel with the great range, andseparated from it by Wadys, lateral, oblique, and perpendicular. Of these torrent-beds some were yellow, others pink, and othersfaint sickly green with decomposed trap; whilst all bore a fairgrowth of thorn-trees--Acacias and Mimosas. High over and beyondthe monarch of the Shafah Mountains, Jebel Sahhárah, whose bluepoll shows far out at sea, ran the red levels of the Hismá, backed at a greater elevation by the black-blue Harrah. The wholeTihámah range, now so familiar to us, assumed a novel expression. The staple material proved to be blocks and crests of granite, protruding from the younger plutonics, which enfolded andenveloped their bases and backs. The one exception was the dwarfUmm Jedayl, a heap composed only of grey granite. The JebelKh'shabríyyah in the Dibbagh block attracted every eye; the headwas supported by a neck swathed as with an old-fashioned cravat. 

The summit of the outlier is tolerably level, and here theshepherds had built small hollow piles of dry stone, in whichtheir newly yeaned lambs are sheltered from the rude blasts. Theview westwards, or towards the sea, which is not seen, almostjustifies by its peculiarity the wild traditions of built wells, of a "moaning mountain, " and of furnaces upon the loftiestslopes: it is notable that the higher we went, the less we heardof these features, which at last vanished into thin air. Ourplatform is, as I suspected, cut off from the higher plane by adividing gorge; but the depth is only three hundred feet, and tothe south it is bridged by a connecting ridge. Beyond it risesthe great mask of granite forming the apex, a bonier skeletonthan any before seen. Down the northern sheet-rocks trickled athin stream that caught the sun's eye; thus the ravine is wellsupplied with water in two places. South of it rises a temptingCol, with a slope apparently easy, separating a dull mass ofgranite on the right from the peculiar formation to the left. Thelatter is a dome of smooth, polished, and slippery grey granite, evidently unpleasant climbing; and from its landward slope riseabrupt, as if hand-built, two isolated gigantic "Pins, " which canhardly measure less than four hundred feet in stature. They arethe remains of a sharp granitic comb whose apex was once the"Parrot's Beak. " The mass, formerly mammilated, has been brokenand denticulated by the destruction of softer strata. Already thelower crest, bounding the Sha'b Umm Khárgah, shows perpendicularfissures which, when these huge columns shall be gnawed away bythe tooth of Time, will form a new range of pillars for thebenefit of those ascending the Shárr, let us say in about A. D. 10, 000. Such are the "Pins" which name the mountain; and which, concealed from the coast, make so curious a show to the north, south, and east of this petrified glacier. 

After breaking their fast, M. M. Clarke, Lacaze, and Philipinvolunteered to climb the tempting Col. None of them had everascended a mountain, and they duly despised the obstacles offeredby big rocks distance-dwarfed to paving-stones; and of sharpangles, especially the upper, perspective-blunted to easy slopes. However, all three did exceeding well: for such a "forlorn hope"young recruits are better than old soldiers. They set out ateleven a. M. , and lost no time in falling asunder; whilst thequarrymen, who accompanied them with the water-skins, shirkedwork as usual, lagged behind, sat and slept in some snug hollow, and returned, when dead-tired of slumber, declaring that they hadmissed the "Effendis. "

M. Philipin took singly the sloping side of the connecting ridge;and, turning to the right, made straight for the "Pins, " belowwhich was spread a fleck of lean and languid green. The ascentwas comparatively mild, except where it became a sheet of smoothand slippery granite; but when he reached a clump of largejunipers, his course was arrested by a bergschrund, which dividesthis block--evidently a second outlier--from the apex of theShárr, the "Dome" and the "Parrot's Beak. " It was vain to attempta passage of the deep gash, with perpendicular upper walls, andlower slopes overgrown with vegetation; nor could he advance tothe right and rejoin his companions, who were parted from him bythe precipices on the near side of the Col. Consequently, he beata retreat, and returned to us at 2. 30 p. M. , after three hours andthirty minutes of exceedingly thirsty work: the air felt briskand cool, but the sun shone pitilessly, unveiled by the smallestscrap of mist. He brought with him an ibex-horn still stainedwith blood, and a branch of juniper, straight enough to make anexcellent walking-stick. 

The other two struck across the valley, and at once breasted thecouloir leading to the Col, where we had them well in sight. Theyfound the ascent much "harder on the collar" than they expected:fortunately the sole of the huge gutter yielded a trickle ofwater. The upper part was, to their naive surprise, mere climbingon all fours; and they reached the summit, visible from ourhalting-place, in two hours. Here they also were summarilystopped by perpendicular rocks on either side, and by the deepgorge or crevasse, shedding seawards and landwards, upon whosefurther side rose the "Parrot's Beak. " The time employed wouldgive about two thousand feet, not including the ascent from thevalley (three hundred feet); and thus their highest point couldhardly be less than 5200 feet. Allowing another thousand for theapex, which they could not reach, [EN#25] the altitude of theShárr would be between 6000 and 6500 feet. 

The shadows were beginning to lengthen before the two reappeared, and the delay caused no small apprehension; the Sayyid showed akindly agitation that was quite foreign to his calm and collecteddemeanour, when threatened by personal danger. To be benightedamongst these cruel mountains must be no joke; nor would it havebeen possible to send up a tent or even mouth-munition. However, before the sun had reached the west, they came back triumphantwith the spoils of war. One was a snake (Echis colorata, Günther), found basking upon the stones near the trickle ofwater. It hissed at them, and, when dying, it changed colour, they declared, like a chameleon--that night saw it safely in thespirit-tin. They were loaded with juniper boughs, and fortunatelythey had not forgotten the berries; the latter establish theidentity of the tree with the common Asiatic species. M. Lacazebrought back several Alpine plants, a small Helix which he hadfound near the summit, and copious scrawls for futurecroquis--his studies of the "Pins" and the "Dome" were greatlyadmired at Cairo. 

Ere the glooms of night had set in, we found ourselves once moreat the tents. Only one man suffered from the ascent, and hissunstroke was treated in Egyptian fashion. Instead of bleedinglike that terrible, murderous Italian school of Sangrados, theFellahs tie a string tightly round the head; and aftersunset--which is considered de rigueur--they fill the ears withstrong brine. According to them the band causes a bunch of veinsto swell in the forehead, and, when pressed hard, it bursts likea pistol-shot. The cure is evidently effected by the coldsalt-and-water. The evening ended happily with the receipt of amail, and with the good news that the Sinnár corvette had beensent to take the place of El-Mukhbir, the unfortunate. Once morewe felt truly grateful to the Viceroy and the Prince who sopromptly and so considerately had supplied all our wants, andwhose kindness would convert our southern cruise into a holidaygîte, without the imminent deadly risk of a burst boiler. 

We set out in high spirits on the next morning (6. 15 a. M. , March17th), riding, still southwards, up the Surr: the stony, brokensurface now showed that we were fast approaching its source. Beyond the Umm Khárgah gorge on the western bank, rose a tallhead, the Ras el-Rukabíyyah; and beyond it was a ravine, in whichpalms and water are said to be found. The opposite side raisedits monotonous curtain of green and red traps, whose severalprojections bore the names of Jebel el-Wu'ayrah--the hill behindour camping-ground--Jebel el-Maín, and Jebel Sháhitah. A littlebeyond the latter debouched the Darb el-Kufl ("Road ofCaravans"), alias Darb el-Ashárif ("Road of the Sherifs"), awinding gap, the old line of the Egyptian pilgrims, by which theSulaymáyyán Bedawin still wend their way to Suez. The secondname, perhaps, conserves the tradition of long-past wars wagedbetween the Descendants of the Apostle and the Beni‘Ukbah. [EN#26] The broad mouth was dotted with old graves, withquartz-capped memorial-cairns, and, here and there, with a blockbearing some tribal mark. The Wady-sole grew a "stinkhorn" heldto be poisonous, and called, from its fetor, "Faswat el-‘Agúz"(Cynophallus impudicus): one specimen was found on the tip of anibex-horn, and the other had been impaled with a stick. After twohours and thirty minutes (= seven miles) we sighted the head ofthe Wady Surr proper, whose influents drain the southernKhurayatah or Hismá Pass. Here the amount of green surface, andthe number of birds, especially the blue-rock and theinsect-impaling "butcher, " whose nests were in the thin forest ofthorn-trees, argue that water is not far off. The Ras Wady Surris a charming halting-place. 

Our Arabs worked hard to gain another day. The only tolerablePass rounding the southern Shárr was, they declared, the WadyAújar, an influent of the Wady Zahakán, near Zibá. The Colel-Kuwayd, now within a few yards of us, is so terrible that theunfortunate camels would require, before they could attempt it, at least twenty-four hours of preparatory rest and rich feeding;and so forth. However, we pushed them on with flouts and jeers, and we ourselves followed at eleven a. M. 

The Pass proved to be one of the easiest. It began with a gradualrise up a short broad Wady, separating the southernmostcounterforts of the Shárr from the north end of the Jebelel-Ghuráb. This "Raven Mountain" is a line of similar but lowerformation, which virtually prolongs the great "Landmark, " downcoast. The bottom was dotted with lumps of pure "Marú, " washedfrom the upper levels. We reached the summit in forty minutes, and the seaward slope beyond it was a large outcrop of quartz insitu, that assumed the strangest appearance, --a dull, deadchalky-white, looking as if heat-altered or mixed with clay. Therock-ladder leading to the lower Wady Kuwayd, which has an upperbranch of the same name, offered no difficulty to man or beast;and the aneroid showed its height to be some 470 feet(28. 13--28. 50). The caravan, having preceded us, revenged itselfby camping at the nearest pool, distant nineteen and a halfdirect geographical miles from our destination. 

This day was the first of the Khamsín or, as M. Loufti (?), aCoptic student, writes it, "Khamasín, " from Khama ("warm") andSina ("air"). [EN#27] The Midianites call it El-Daufún, the hotblasts, and expect it to blow at intervals for a couple ofmonths. This scirocco has been modified in Egypt, at least duringthe spring, apparently by the planting of trees. About aquarter-century ago, its regular course was three days: on thefirst it set in; the second was its worst; and men knew that itwould exhaust itself on the third. Now it often lasts only asingle day, and even that short period has breaks. 

The site of the camp made sleep well-nigh impossible--a badpreparation for the only long ride of this excursion. Setting offat dark (4. 20 a. M. , March 18th), we finished the monotonous WadyKuwayd, which mouths upon the rolling ground falling coastwards. The track then struck to the north-west, across and sometimesdown the network of Wadys that subtends the south-westernShárr--their names have already been mentioned. As we sighted thecool green-blue sea, its horizon-line appeared prodigiouslyuplifted, as if the Fountains of the great Deep were ready foranother Deluge. I remembered the inevitable expressions ofsurprise with which, young Alpinists and ballooners, expectingthe rim of the visible circle to fall away, see it rising aroundthem in saucer-shape. The cause is simply that which breaks thestick in water, and which elevates the Sha'rr everymorning--Refraction. 

After a march of seven hours (= twenty-two miles), we debouched, viâ the Wady Hárr, upon our old Sharm, the latter showing, forthe first time since its creation, two war-steamers, with their"tender, " a large Sambúk. The boats did not long keep us waiting;and we were delighted to tread once more the quarter-deck of thecorvette Sinnár. Captain Ali Bey Shukri's place had been taken byCaptain Hasan-Bey, an Osmanli of Cavala who, having beenforty-eight years in the service, sighed for his pension. He did, however, everything in his power to make us feel "at home;" andthe evening ended with a fantasia of a more pronounced characterthan anything that I had yet seen. [EN#28]

 Résumé of the March Through Eastern or Central Midian. 

Our journey through Eastern or Central Midian lasted eighteendays (February 19--March 8), with an excursion of six (March13--18) to its apex, the mighty Shárr, which I would add to ourexploration of Central Midian. Despite enforced slow marches atthe beginning of the first section, we visited in round numbers, according to my itinerary, 197 miles: Lieutenant Amir's map givesa linear length of 222 miles, not including the offsets. Thesecond part covered fifty-five miles, besides the ascent of themountain to a height of about five thousand feet: the mapper alsoincreased this figure to 59 2/3. Thus the route-line shows agrand total of 252 to 281 2/3 in direct statute miles. The numberof camels engaged from Shaykhs ‘Alayán and Hasan was sixty-one;and the hire, according to Mr. Clarke, represented Ł147 6s. 6d. , not including the Ł40 of which we were plundered by the banditMa'ázah. The ascent of the Shárr also cost Ł40, making a grandtotal of Ł187 6s. 6d. 

The march to the Hismá gave us a fair idea of the three mainformations of Madyan, which lie parallel and east of oneanother:--1. The sandy and stony maritime region, the foot-hillsof the Gháts, granites and traps with large veins and outcrops ofquartz; and Wadys lined with thick beds of conglomerate. 2. TheJibál el-Tihámah, the majestic range that bounds the seaboardinland, with its broad valleys and narrow gorges forming the onlyroads. 3. The Jibál el-Shafah, or interior ridge, the "lip" ofNorth-Western Arabia; in fact, the boundary-wall of the Nejdplateau. 

The main object of this travel was to ascertain the depth fromwest to east of the quartz-formations, which had been worked bythe Ancients. I had also hoped to find a virgin region lyingbeyond El-Harrah, the volcanic tract subtending the east of theHismá, or plateau of New Red Sandstone. We ascertained, byinquiry, that the former has an extent wholly unsuspected by Dr. Wallin and by the first Expedition; and that a carefulexamination of it is highly desirable. But we were stopped uponthe very threshold of the Hismá by the Ma'ázah, a tribe ofbrigands which must be subjected to discipline before theprovince of Madyan can be restored to its former status. 

This northern portion had been visited by Dr. Wallin; the othertwo-thirds of the march lay, I believe, over untrodden ground. Webrought back details concerning the three great parallel Wadys;the Salmá, the Dámah, that "Arabian Arcadia, " and the‘Aslah-Aznab. We dug into, and made drawings and plans of, thetwo principal ruined cities, Shuwák and Shaghab, which probablycombined to form the classical ; and of the two lessimportant sites, El-Khandaki and Umm Ámil. 

The roads of this region, and indeed of all Midian, are those ofIceland without her bogs and snows: for riding considerations wemay divide them into four kinds:--

1. Wady--the Fiumara or Nullah; called by travellers"winter-brook" and "dry river-bed. " It is a channel withoutwater, formed, probably, by secular cooling and contraction ofthe earth's surface, like the fissures which became true streamsin the tropics, and in the higher temperate zones. Its geologicalage would be the same as the depressions occupied by the oceanand the "massive" eruptions forming the mountain-skeleton of theglobe. Both the climate and the vegetation of Midian must havechanged immensely if these huge features, many of them five milesbroad, were ever full of water. In modern days, after theheaviest rains, a thin thread meanders down a wilderness of bed. 

The Wady-formation shows great regularity. Near the mouth itsloose sands are comfortable to camels and distressing to man andmule. The gravel of the higher section is good riding; the upperpart is often made impassable by large stones and overfalls ofrock; and the head is a mere couloir. Flaked clay or mud show thethalweg; and the honeycombed ground, always above the line ofhighest water, the homes of the ant, beetle, jerboa, lizard, and(Girdi) rat, will throw even the cautious camel. 

2. Ghadír--the basin where rain-water sinks. It is mostly ashining bald flat of hard yellow clay, as admirable in dry as itis detestable in wet weather. 

3. Majrá--here pronounced "Maghráh"[EN#29]--the divide;literally, the place of flowing. It is the best ground of all, especially where the yellow or brown sands are overlaid by hardgravel, or by a natural metalling of trap and other stones. 

4. Wa'r--the broken stony surface, over which camels eithercannot travel, or travel with difficulty: it is the horror of theBedawi; and, when he uses the word, it usually means that itcauses man to dismount. It may be of two kinds; either the Majráproper ("divide") or the Nakb ("pass"), and the latter may safelybe left to the reader's imagination. 

The partial ascent of the mighty Shárr gave an admirable study ofthe mode in which the granites have been enfolded and envelopedby the later eruptions of trap. Nor less curious, also, was it toremark how, upon this Arabian Alp, vegetation became moreimportant; increasing, contrary to the general rule, not only inquantity but in size, and changing from the date and the Daum tothe strong smelling Ferula, the homely hawthorn, and the tall andbalmy juniper-tree. There is game, ibex and leopard, in thesemountains; but the traveller, unless a man of leisure, must notexpect to shoot or even to sight it. 

 Chapter XIV. Down South--to El-Wijh–Notes on the Quarantine--the Hutaym Tribe. 

There remained work to do before we could leave El-Muwaylah. Thetwo Shaykhs, ‘Alayán and Hasan el-‘Ukbi, were to be paid off enddismissed with due ceremony; provisions were to be brought fromthe fort to the cove; useless implements to be placed in store;mules to be embarked--no joke without a pier!--and last, but notleast, the ballastless Mukhbir was to be despatched with a mailfor Suez. The whole Expedition, except only the sick left at thefort, was now bound southwards. The Sayyid and our friend Furayjaccepted formal invitations to accompany us: Bukhayt, my"shadow, " with Husayn, chef and romancer-general, were shipped astheir henchmen; and a score of soldiers and quarrymen representedthe escort and the working-hands. Briefly, the Sinnár, thoughfretting her vitals out at the delay, was detained two days(March 19--20) in the Sharm Yáhárr. Amongst other things thatconsoled us for quitting the snug dock, was the total absence offish. At this season the shoals leave the coast, and gather roundtheir wonted spawning-grounds, the deep waters near the Sha'b("reefs"), where they find luxuriant growths of seaweed, andwhere no ships disturb them. 

Bidding a temporary adieu to our old fellow voyagers on board theMukhbir, including the excellent engineer, Mr. David Duguid, westeamed out of the quiet cove, at a somewhat late hour (6. 30a. M. ) on March 21st; and, dashing into the dark and slaty sea, stood to the south-east. For two days the equinoctial weather hadbeen detestable, dark, cloudy, and so damp that the dry and thewet bulbs showed a difference of only 4°--5°. This morning, too, the fire of colour had suddenly gone out; and the heavens werehung with a gloomy curtain. The great Shárr, looming unusuallylarge and tall in the Scandinavian mountain-scene, grey of shadowand glancing with sun-gleams that rent the thick veils ofmist-cloud, assumed a manner of Ossianic grandeur. After threehours and a half we were abreast of Zibá, around whose dumpytower all the population had congregated. Thence the regularcoralline bank, whose beach is the Bab, runs some distance downcoast, allowing passage to our ugly old friend, Wady Salmá. Thenext important mouth is the Wady ‘Amúd, showing two Sambúks atanchor, and a long line of vegetation like the palm-strips of the‘Akabah Gulf: this valley, I have said, receives the Mutadán, into which the Abú Marwah gorge discharges. [EN#30]

It would appear that this "‘Amúd" represents the "Wady el-‘Aúníd, " aname utterly unknown to the modern Arabs, citizens and Bedawin, atleast as far south as El-Haurá. Yet it is famed amongst mediaevalgeographers for its fine haven with potable water; and for itsflourishing city, where honey was especially abundant. El-Idrísísettles the question of its site by placing it on the coast oppositethe island El-Na'mán (Nu'mán), but can El-Idrísí be trusted?Sprenger (p. 24), induced, it would appear, by similarity of sound, and justly observing that in Arabic the letters Ayn and Ghayn areoften interchanged, would here place the (Rhaunathi Vicus)of Ptolemy (north lat. 25 degrees 40'). According to my friend, also, the Ras Abú Masárib, the long thin point north of which theWady Dámah, half-way to the Wady Azlam, falls in, represents the (Chersónesi Extrema) on the same parallel. I cannot helpsuspecting that both lie further south--in fact, somewhere about El-Haurá. [EN#31]

Here the maritime heights, known as the Jibál ("Mountains" ofthe) Tihámat-Balawiyyah (of "the Baliyy tribe"), recede from thesea, and become mere hills and hillocks; yet the continuity ofthe chain is never completely broken. At noon we slipped into thechannel, about a mile and a half broad, which separates themainland from the Jebel ("Mount") Nu'mán, as the island iscalled: so the Arabs speak of Jebel (never Jezírat)Hassáni. [EN#32] The surface of the water was like oil after thecross seas on all sides, the tail of an old gale which the Arabpilots call Bahr madfún ("buried sea"), corresponding with theItalian mar vecchio. On our return northwards we landed uponNu'mán, whose name derives from the red-flowered Euphorbiaretusa; bathed, despite the school of sharks occupying the watersaround; collected botany, and examined the ground carefully. Likethe Dalmatian Archipelago, it once formed part of the mainland, probably separated by the process that raised the maritime range. The rolling sandy plateau and the dwarf Wadys are strewed withtrap and quartz, neither of which could have been generated bythe new sandstones and the yellow corallines. It has two finebays, facing the shore and admirably defended from all winds; thesouthern not a little resembles Sináfir-cove. 

The "top, " or dwarf plateau, commands a fine view of the coastscenery; the "Pins" of the Shárr; the Mutadán Mountain, twin ridgesof grey white granite, and, further south, the darker forms ofRaydán and Zigláb. Here, during springtide, the Huwaytát transporttheir flocks in the light craft called Katirah, and feed them tillthe pasture is browsed down. We made extensive inquiries, but couldhear of no ruins. Yet the islet, some three to four miles long byone broad, forming a natural breakwater to the coast, is importantenough to bear, according to Sprenger, a classical name, the (Timagenis Insula) of Ptolemy. If this be the case, either thePelusian or his manuscripts are greatly in error. He places the bankin north lat. 25° 45', whilst its centre would be in north lat. 27°5'; and the sixty miles of distance from the coast, evidently theblunder of a copyist, must be reduced to a maximum of three. 

Passing another old friend, the Aslah-Aznab, down whose head wehad ridden to Shaghab, about two p. M. We steamed along the mouthof the Wady Azlam, the Ezlam of Wellsted, [EN#33] which he undulymakes the southern frontier of the Huwaytát, and the northern ofthe Baliyy tribes. Beyond it is the gape of the once populousWady Dukhán--of "the (furnace?) Smoke"--faced by a large splay oftree-grown sand. Ruins are reported in its upper bed. BeyondMarsá Zubaydah (not Zebaider), the sea is bordered by thered-yellow coast-range; and the fretted sky line of peaks andcones, "horses" and "hogs'-backs, " is cut by deep valleys anddrained by dark "gates. " The background presents a long, regularcurtain of black hill, whose white sheets and veins may begranite and quartz. We were then shown the Mínat el-Marrah, oneof the many Wady-mouths grown with vegetation; and here the ruinsEl-Nabagah (Nabakah) are spoken of. At four p. M. We doubled theRas Labayyiz (not Lebayhad), a long flat tongue projecting fromthe coast range, and defending its valley to the south. In theFara't or upper part, some five hours' march from the mouth, lieimportant remains of the Mutakkadimín ("ancients"). The reportwas confirmed by an old Arab Básh-Buzúk at El-Wijh; he declaredthat in his youth he had seen a tall furnace, and a quantity ofscorić from which copper could be extracted, lying northwards ata distance of eighteen hours' march and five by sea. 

The next important feature is the Wady Salbah, the Telbah of theChart, up whose inland continuation, the Wady el-Nejd, we shalltravel. Here the coast-range again veers off eastward; and theregular line is cut up into an outbreak of dwarf cones, merethimbles. Above the gloomy range that bounds it southwards, appear the granitic peaks and "Pins" of Jebel Libn, gleamingwhite and pale in the livid half-light of a cloudy sunset. Aftertwelve hours' steaming over seventy to seventy-two knots of reefysea, we ran carefully into the Sharm Dumayghah. [EN#34] Thislake-like, land-locked cove is by far the best of the many gooddock-harbours which break the Midian coast. Its snug retreat gavehospitality to half a dozen Juhayni Sambúks, fishers and diversfor mother-of-pearl, riding beyond sight of the outer world, andutterly safe from the lighthouse dues of El-Wijh. 

I resolved to pass a day at these old quarters of a certain Háji‘Abdullah. The hydrographers have given enlarged plans of Yáhárrand Jibbah, ports close to each other; while they have ignoredthe far more deserving Sharm Dumayghah. Distant only thirty milesof coasting navigation, a line almost clear of reefs and shoals, it is the natural harbour for the pilgrim-ships, which ever runthe danger of being wrecked at El-Wijh; and it deserves morenotice than we have hitherto vouchsafed to it. The weather alsogreatly improved on the next day (March 22nd): the cloud-canopy, the excessive moisture, and the still sultriness which hadafflicted us since March 19th, were in process of being sweptaway by the strong, cool, bright norther. 

The survey of the Egyptian officers shows an oval extending fromnorth-west to south-east, with four baylets or bulges in thenorthern shore. The length is upwards of a knot, and the breadthtwelve hundred yards. It may be described as the embouchure ofthe Wady Dumayghah, which falls into its head, and which, doubtless, in olden times, when the land was wooded, used to rolla large and turbulent stream. As is often seen on this coast, theentrance is defended by a natural breakwater which appears like adot upon the Chart. Capped with brown crust, falling bluffinland, and sloping towards the main, where the usual stone-heapsact as sea-marks, this bank of yellowish-white coralline, measuring 310 metres by half that width, may be the remains ofthe bed in which the torrents carved out the port. The northerninlet is a mere ford of green water: my "Pilgrimage" made themistake of placing a fair-way passage on either side of theislet. The southern channel, twenty-five fathoms deep and threehundred metres broad, is garnished on both flanks with a hundredmetres of dangerous shallow, easily distinguished by greenblazoned upon blue. The bay is shoal to the south-east; the bestanchorage for ships lies to the north-west, almost touching land. A reef or rock is reported to be in the middle ground, where welay with ten fathoms under us: it was seen, they say, at night, by the aid of lanterns; but next morning Lieutenants Amir andYusuf were unable to find it. Native craft usually make fast inthree fathoms to a lumpy natural mole of modern sandstone, northof the entrance: a little trimming would convert it into afirst-rate pier. 

At this place we landed to prospect the country, and to gatherinformation from the Sambúk crews before they had time to hoistsail and be off. The owners of the land are not Juhaynah, the"Wild Men" with whom the Rais of the Golden Wire had threatenedus in 1853. The country belongs to the Baliyy; now an inoffensivetribe well subject to Egypt, mixed with a few Kura'án-Huwaytátand Karáizah-Hutaym. The fishermen complained that no fish was tobe caught, and the strong tides, setting upon the stony flank ofthe mole, had broken most of the shells, not including, however, the oysters. The usual eight-ribbed turtle appeared to be common. On the sands to the north, M. Lacaze picked up a large old andbleached skull, which went into my collection; we failed to findany neighbouring burial-ground. Striking inland, however, towardsthe dotted square, marked "Fort (ruin)" in the Chart, we cameupon an ancient cemetery to the north of the bay, and concludedthat these graves had been mistaken for remains of building. 

We then bent eastward towards the Jibál el-Salbah, and examinedthe two dwarf valleys which, threading the heights, feed the WadyDumayghah. That to the south showed us a perfectly familiarformation; conglomerates of water-rolled pebbles in the lowerlevels, and hills of the normal dark porphyries, with largequartz-seams of many colours trending in every direction. Themouth of the northern gorge was blocked by a vein of finelycrystallized carbonate of lime, containing geodes and bunches. The taste is astringent, probably from the alumina; and it isbased upon outcrops of a sandy calcaire apparently fit forhydraulic cement. The only novelty in the vegetation was theFashak-tree, a creeper like a gigantic constrictor, with sweetyellow wood somewhat resembling liquorice. 

Signs of Arab everywhere appeared, but there were no tents. Consequently we were unable to ascertain the extent of thewater-supply--an important matter if this is to become the portof El-Wijh. The Sambúks might bring it, but the people on shorewould be dependent upon what they can find. The Hajj-road, running some miles inland, is doubtless supplied with it. Even, however, were the necessary wanting, the pilgrim-ships, whilsttaking refuge here, could easily transport it from the south. Shaykh Furayj; pointed out to us the far northern blue peaks ofthe ‘Amúd Zafar, in whose branch-Wady lie the ruins of M'jirmah. The day ended with a sudden trembling of the ship, as ifstraining at anchor; but the crew was again performing fantasia, and the earthquake or sea-quake rolled unheededly away. Apparently the direction was from north to south: I noted thehour, 9. 10 p. M. , and the duration, twenty seconds. According tothe Arabs the Zilzilah is not uncommon in Midian, especiallyabout the vernal equinox: on this occasion it ended the spell ofdamp and muggy weather which began on March 19th, and which mayhave been connected with it. 

The survey soundings were not finished till nearly eight a. M. (March 23rd), when the old corvette swung round on her heel; and, with the black hills of Salbah to port, resumed her rolling, rollicking way southwards. Her only ballast consisted of some sixhundred conical shot, or twelve tons for a ship of eight hundred. After one hour of steaming (= seven miles) we passed the greenmouth of the Wady ‘Antar, in whose Istabl ("stable"), or uppervalley-course, the pilgrimage-caravan camps. It drains a smallinland feature to the north-east, the true "Jebel ‘Antar, " whichthe Hydrographic Chart has confounded with the great block, applying, moreover, the term Istabl to the height instead of thehollow. This Jebel Libn, along which we are now steaming, is acounterpart on a small scale, a little brother, of the Shárr, measuring 3733 instead of 6000 to 6500 feet. We first see fromthe north a solid block capped with a mural crown of three peaks. When abreast of us the range becomes a tall, fissured, andperpendicular wall: this apical comb, bluff to the west, reposesupon a base sloping, at the angle of rest, to the environingsandy Wady. To complete the resemblance, even the queer "Pins"are not wanting; and I should expect to find in it all theaccidents of the giant of El-Muwaylah. 

The complexion of the Libn, which the people pronounce "Libin, "suggests grey granite profusely intersected with white quartz:hence, probably, the name, identical with Lebanon andLibanus--"the Milk Mountain. " The title covers a multitude ofpeaks: the Bedawin have, doubtless, their own terms for everyhead and every hollow. The citizens comprehensively divide theblock into two, El-Áli ("the Upper") being its southern, andEl-Asfal ("the Lower") its northern, section. It is said toabound in water; and a Nakhil ("date-grove") is described asgrowing near the summit. The Hutaym, who own most of it, claimthe lover and hero-poet, ‘Antar, as one of their despisedtribe--hence, probably, his connection with the adjoiningmountain and "the stable. "

"Jebel Libin" is the great feature of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah; formany days it will appear to follow us, and this is the properplace for assigning its rank and status to it. About El-‘Akabah, the northern head of the Gháts or coast-range, we have prospectedthe single chain of Jebel Shará'; the "Sa'ar of the tribes of theShasu" (Bedawin)[EN#35] in the papyri, and the Hebrew Mount Seir, the "rough" or "rugged. " Further south we have noted how thistall eastern bulwark of the great Wady el-‘Arabah bifurcates;forming the Shafah chain to the east, and westward of it, inMadyan Proper, the Jibál el-Tihámah, of which the Shárr isperhaps the culmination. We have noted the accidents of thelatter as far as Dumayghah Cove, and now we descry in the offingthe misty forms--how small they look!--of the Jebel el-Ward; theJibál el-Safhah; the two blocks, south of the Wady Hamz, known asthe Jibál el-Rál; and their neighbours still included in theTihámat-Balawíyyah. Lastly, we shall sight, behind El-Haurá, theAbú Ghurayr and a number of blocks which, like the former, arelaid down, but are not named, in the Chart. 

Beyond El-Haurá the chain stretches southwards its mighty linkswith smaller connections. The first is the bold range JebelRadwah, the "Yambo Hills" of the British sailor, some sixthousand feet high and lying twenty-five miles behind the newport. [EN#36] Passing it to left on the route to El-Medínah, Iheard the fables which imposed upon Abyssinian Bruce: "All sortsof Arabian fruits grew to perfection on the summit of thesehills; it is the paradise of the people of Yenbo, those of anysubstance having country-houses there. " This was hardly probablein Bruce's day, and now it is impossible. The mountain is held bythe Beni Harb, a most turbulent tribe, for which see my"Pilgrimage. "[EN#37] Their head Shaykh, Sa'd the Robber, whostill flourished in 1853, is dead; but he has been succeeded byone of his sons, Shaykh Hudayfah, who is described with simpleforce as being a "dog more biting than his sire. " Between theseill-famed haunts of the Beni Harb and Jeddah rises the JebelSubh, "a mountain remarkable for its magnitude" (4500 feet), inhabited by the Beni Subh, a fighting clan of the "Sons ofBattle. "

The largest links of these West-Arabian Gháts are of white-greygranite, veined and striped with quartz; and they are subtendedinland by the porphyritic traps of the Jibál el-Shafah, which weshall trace to the parallel of El-Hamz, the end of Egypt. Icannot, however, agree with Wellsted (II. Xii. ) that the ridgesincrease in height as they recede from the sea; nor that theveins of quartz run horizontally through the "dark granite. " Thegreater altitudes (three to six thousand feet) are visible froman offing of forty to seventy miles; and they are connected byminor heights: some of these, however, are considerable, and hereand there they break into detached pyramids. All are maritime, now walling the shore, like the Tayyib Ism; then sheering awayfrom it, where a broad "false coast" has been built by Time. 

These western Gháts, then, run down, either in single or indouble line, the whole length of occidental Arabia; and, meetinga similar and equally important eastern line, they form a mightynucleus, the mountains of El-Yemen. After carefully inspecting, and making close inquiries concerning, a section of some fivehundred miles, I cannot but think that the mines of preciousores, mentioned by the medićval Arabian geographers, [EN#38] layand lie in offsets from the flanks either of the maritime or theinland chain; that is, either in the Tihámah, the coast lowlands, or in the El-Nejd, the highland plateau of the interior. 

What complicates the apparently simple ground is the long line ofvolcanic action which, forming the eastern frontier of theplutonic granites and of the modern grits, may put forth veinseven to the shores of the ‘Akabah Gulf and the Red Sea. [EN#39]The length, known to me by inquiry, would be about three degreesbetween north lat. 28° and 25°, the latter being the parallel ofEl-Medínah; others make them extend to near Yambú', in north lat. 24° 5'. They may stretch far to the north, and connect, as hasbeen suggested, with the Syrian centres of eruption, discoveredby the Palestine Exploration. I have already explained[EN#40] howand why we were unable to visit "the Harrah" lying east of theHismá; but we repeatedly saw its outlines, and determined thatthe lay is from north-west to south-east. Further south, as willbe noticed at El-Haurá, the vertebrae curve seawards or to thesouth-west; and seem to mingle with the main range, the mountainsof the Tihámat-Jahaníyyah ("of the Juhaynah"). Thus the formationassumes an importance which has never yet been attributed to it;and the five several "Harrahs, " reported to me by the Bedawin, must be studied in connection with the mineralogical deposits ofthe chains in contact with them. It must not be forgotten that afragment of porous basalt, picked up by the first Expedition nearMakná, yielded a small button of gold. [EN#41]

Dreadfully rolled the Sinnár, as she ran close in-shore beforethe long heavy swell from the north-west, and the old saying, Bonrouleur, bon marcheur, is cold consolation to an active man madeto idle malgré lui. This section of the coast, unlike that to thenorth, is remarkably free from reefs. A little relief was feltwhile sheltered by the short tract of channel between themainland and the shoals. But the nuisance returned in force as, doubling the Ras Muraybit (not Marabat), we sighted the twotowers of El-Wijh, both beflagged, the round Burj of the fort, and the cubical white-washed lighthouse crowning its rocky point. And we were quiet once more when the Sinnár, having covered thethirty miles in four hours and thirty minutes, cast anchor in theusual place, south-east of the northern jaw. The main objectionto our berth is that the prevailing north wind drives in arolling sea from the open west. The log showed a total of 102miles between the Sharms Yáhárr and El-Wijh, or 107 from thelatter to El-Muwaylah. 

"El-Wijh, " meaning the face, a word which the Egyptian Fellahperverts to "Wish, " lies in north lat. 26° 14'. It is thenorthernmost of the townlets on the West Arabian shore, whichgain importance as you go south; e. G. , Yambá', Jeddah, Mocha, andAden. It was not wholly uncivilized during my first visit, aquarter of a century ago, when I succeeded in buying opium forfeeble patients. Distant six stations from Yambá', and ten fromEl-Medínah, it has been greatly altered and improved. Thepilgrim-caravan, which here did penance of quarantine till thelast two years, has given it a masonry pier for landing theunfortunates to encamp upon the southern or uninhabited side ofthe cove. A tall and well-built lighthouse, now five years old, boasts of a good French lantern, wanting only soap and decentoil. Finally, guardhouses and bakehouses, already falling toruins like the mole, and an establishment for condensing water, still kept in working order, are the principal and costlynovelties of the southern shore. 

The site of El-Wijh is evidently old, although the ruins havebeen buried under modern buildings. Sprenger (p. 21) holds thetownlet to be the port of "Egra, a village" (El-Hajar, or "thetown, the townlet"?) "in the territory of Obodas, " whence, according to Strabo (xvi. C. 4, § 24), Ćlius Gallus embarked hisbaffled troops for Myus Hormus. [EN#42] Formerly he believedEl-Aúníd to be Strabo's "Egra, " the haven for the north; asEl-Haurá was for the south, and El-Wijh for the central regions. Pliny (vi. 32) also mentions the "Tamudći, with their towns ofDomata and Hegra, and the town of Badanatha. " It is generallyremarked that "Egra" does not appear in Ptolemy's lists; yet oneof the best texts (Nobbe, Lipsia, 1843) reads insteadof the "Negran" which Pirckheymerus (Lugduni, MDXXXV. ) and othersplaced in north lat. 26°. 

My learned friend writes to me--"El-Wijh, on the coast of Arabia, is opposite to Qoçayr (El-Kusayr), where Ćlius Gallus landed histroops. We know that ‘Egra' is the name of a town in theinterior, and it was the constant habit to call the port afterthe capital of the country, e. G. , Arabia Emporium = Aden. We havenow only to inquire whether El-Wijh had claims to be consideredthe seaport of El-Hijr. " This difficulty is easily settled. El-Wijh is still the main, indeed the only, harbour in SouthMidian; and, during our stay there, a large caravan broughtgoods, as will be seen, from the upper Wady Hamz. 

Under the influence of the quarantine, El-Wijh, the town on thenorthern bank of its cove, has blossomed into a hauteville, dating from the last dozen years. The ancient basseville, probably the site of many former settlements, is now used chieflyfor shops and stores. Another and a more pretentious mosque hassupplanted the little old Záwiyah ("chapel") with its barbarousminaret, whose finial, a series of inverted crescents, might betaken for a cross; while a Jámi' or "cathedral, " begun in theupper town, has stopped short through want of funds. Some of thebest houses now extend towards the northern point. As usual inArab settlements, they are long, tall claret-cases of coral-ragand burnt lime; flat-roofed, whitewashed in front, and providedwith wooden doors and shutters. Lastly, on the slope stillappears the smoky coffee-shed that witnessed the memorableencounter between its surly proprietor and "Saad theDevil. "[EN#43]

Stony ramps, stiff as those of Gibraltar, connect the low withthe high town, the cool breezy new settlement upon the crest ofthe northern cliff, whose noble view of the Jebel Libn and thepalm-scattered Wady el-Wijh were formerly monopolized by the fortand its round tower. This work, only sixty-five years old, nowstands so perilously near the undermined edge of therock-cornice, that some day it will come down with a run. It isused by the garrison, and serves as a jail; but lately a Bedawiprisoner, like a certain Mamlúk Bey, jumped down the precipitouscove-face and effected his escape. Behind it are the "Doctors'Quarters, " empty and desolate, because the sanitary officers havebeen removed. They are sheds of white-washed boarding, broughtfrom the Crimea, like those of the Suez Canal; and comfortablydistributed into Harem, kitchens, offices, and other necessaries. 

The inhabitants of El-Wijh may number twelve hundred, withoutincluding chance travellers and the few wretched Bedawin, Hutaymand others, who pitch their black tents, like those ofAlexandrian "Ramleh, " about and beyond the town. The people livewell; and the merchants are large and portly men, who evidentlythrive upon meat and rice. Flesh is retailed in the bazar, andmutton is cheap, especially when the Bedawin are near; a finelarge sheep being dear at ten shillings. Water is exceptionallyabundant, even without the condenser's aid. The poorer classesand animals are watered at the pits and the two regular wellsnear the valley's mouth, half an hour's trudge from the town. Thewealthy are supplied by the inland fort, which we shall presentlyvisit: the distance going and coming would be about four slowhours, and the skinful costs five Khurdah, or copper piastres =three halfpence. The inner gardens grow a small quantity of greenmeat: water-melons are brought from Yambá(?): opium and Hashíshabound, but no spirits are for sale since the one Greek Bakkál, or petty shopkeeper, "made tracks. " He borrowed from a certainSurúr Selámah, negro merchant and head miser, 150 napoleons, inorder to buy on commission certain bales of cotton shipwrecked upcoast; he left in pledge the keys of his miserable store, which, by-the-by, la loi refuses to open; he was never seen again, andpoor rich Surur is in the depths of despair. 

One of the small industries of El-Wijh is the pearl trade. Mr. Clarke bought for Ł4 (twenty dollars) a specimen of good roundform but rather yellow colour; and presently refused Ł5 for it. Those of pear-shape easily fetch thirty-six to forty dollars. Turquoises set in sealing-wax are sold cheap by the returningPersian pilgrims: the Zib el-Bahr ("Sea-wolf"), an Egyptiancruiser, had carried off the best shortly before our arrival. Thepeople speak of an ‘Akík ("carnelian") which, rubbed down invinegar, enters into the composition of a favourite philtre--wecould not, however, find any for sale. On our return, an ‘Anezahcaravan of some ninety camels, driven by a hundred or so ofspearmen and matchlockmen, came in loaded with valuable Samn orclarified butter: the fact suggests that the time has come forestablishing a Gumruk ("custom-house") at El-Wijh. Another sourceof wealth will be El-Melláhah, "the salina, " along which we shalltravel: every man who has a donkey may carry off what he pleases, and sell to pilgrims and Bedawin the kilogramme for four piastrescopper (= one piastre currency = five farthings). This againshould be taken in hand by Government; and regular "salterns, "like those of Triestine Capodistria, would greatly increase thequantity. Nothing can be better than the quality exceptrock-salt. There is another salina about one hour down the coast, formed by a reef, near the Ras el-Ma'llah. 

The afternoon of arrival was spent in receiving visits. TheMuháfiz or "civil governor, " Hasan Bey, calls himself aCircassian: he is a handsome old man, whose straight featuressuggest the Greek slave, and who served in the Syrian campaignsunder Ibrahim Pasha. Forty years ago he left his home; he hasbeen here six years, and yet he knows absolutely nothing of theinterior. He ought to reside at the inland fort, but he prefersthe harbour-town; and he had not the common-sense to ride outwith us. He shows his zeal by inventing obstacles; for instance, he suggests that the Bedawin should leave, during our journey, hostages at the fort: this is wholly unnecessary, and means onlypiastres. The Yuzbáshi, or "military commandant, " Sid-AhmedEffendi, has charge of the forty-five regulars, half a company, who garrison the post and outpost. The chief merchant, whoafterwards volunteered to be our travelling companion, isMohammed Shahádah, formerly Wakil ("agent") of the fort, a chargenow abolished by a pound-foolish policy: he is an honest andintelligent, a charitable and companionable man, who hastravelled far and wide over the interior, and who knows thetribes by heart. I strongly recommended him to his Highness theViceroy. His brothers, Bedawi and Ali Shahádah, are alsoopen-handed to the poor; very unlike their brother-in-law SurúrSelámah, formerly a slave to the father of Mohammed Selámah whomwe had met at Zibá. The list of notables ends with the SayyidIbrahim El-Mara'í and with the sturdy Abd el-Hakk, pearl andgeneral merchant. All recognized our friend the Sayyid, whom eventhe "gutter-boys" saluted by name; and, although the Arab manneris blunt and independent, all showed perfect civility. It isneedless to say that our late work, and our future plans, wereknown to everybody at El-Wijh as well as to ourselves; and thatthe tariffs of pay and hire, established in the North Country, atonce became the norm of the South. 

Our favourite walk at old "Egra" was to the quarantine-ground andthe lighthouse. The situation of the town is by no meanssatisfactory, and the heavy dews of April, wetting the streets, cause frequent fevers. En revanche, nothing can be more healthyor exhilarating than the air of the tall plateau to the south ofthe cove. The quarantine-ground, with its grand view of themountains inland, ends seawards in the Pharos that commands anhorizon of blue water. The latter, according to the charts, isone hundred and six feet above sea-level, and is theoreticallyvisible for fourteen miles; practice would reduce this radius toten, and the least haze to six and even five. 

The lighthouse-charges are strongly objected to by the skippersof Arab fishing-boats, although very small in their case. Square-rigged vessels pay per ton twenty parahs (tariff): thus itcosts a ship of five hundred tons Ł2 10s. (Turkish). The keeper. Under Admiral M'Killop (Pasha), a young Greek named "Gurjí, " as"George" here sounds, is assisted by a Moslem lad, MohammedEffendi of Alexandria. They serve for three years, and they lookforward to the end of them. The former also superintends thecondensing establishment: this office is a sinecure, exceptduring the three months of pilgrim-passage. The machine candistil eighteen tons per diem; and there is anotherwater-magazine, an old paddle-wheeler moored to the beach underthe town. Behind the establishment lies the pilgrim-cemetery. Frequented by hyenas that prowl around the lighthouse, threatening the canine guard. I found a new use for this vermin'sbrain: it is administered by the fair ones at El-Wijh to jealoushusbands, upon whom, they tell me, it acts as a sedative. 

El-Wijh has been heard of in England as the prophylactic againstthe infected Hejaz. It is admirably suited for quarantinepurposes, and it has been abolished, very unwisely, in favour of"Tor harbour. " The latter, inhabited by a ring of thievishSyro-Greek traders; backed by a wretched wilderness, alternatelyswampy and sandy, is comfortless to an extent calculated to makethe healthiest lose health. Moreover, its climate, says ProfessorPalmer (p. 222), is very malarious: "owing to the low and marshynature of the ground, there is a great deal of miasma even in thewinter season. " Finally, and worst of all, it is near enough toSuez for infection to travel easily. A wealthy pilgrim has onlyto pay a few gold pieces, his escape to the mountains is winkedat; and thence he travels or voyages comfortably to Suez andCairo. Even without such irregularities, the transmission ofcontaminated clothing, or other articles, would suffice to spreadcholera, typhus, and smallpox. Tor is, in fact, an excellentmedium for focussing and for propagating contagious disease; andits vicinity to Egypt, and consequently to Europe, suggests thatit should at once be abolished. 

At first I lent ear to the popular statement at El-Wijh; namely, that the visiting doctors and the resident sanitary officersnaturally prefer the shorter to the longer voyage, and the nearerstation to that further from home. Moreover, inasmuch as, ifinclined to be dishonest, they find more opportunities in thenorth, it was their interest to transfer the establishment toTor. The local authorities, the people assured me, were inducedto report that the single fort-well had run dry; that thecondensers had proved a failure, and that the oldsteamer-magazine, into which they had poured brine, was leaky andinefficient. But what was my astonishment when, after return toCairo, I was told that the change had been strongly advocated bythe English Government?

The objections to El-Wijh are two, both equally invalid. The portis dangerous, especially when westerly winds are blowing: shipsduring the pilgrimage-season must bank their fires, ever ready torun out. True; but it has been shown that Sharm Dumayghah, thebest of its kind, lies only thirty knots to the north. Thesecond, want of water, or of good water, is even less cogent. Wehave seen that the seaboard wells supply the poorer classes andanimals; and we shall presently see the Fort-wells, which, intheir day, have watered caravans containing twenty to thirtythousand thirsty men and beasts. So far from the condensers beinga failure, the tank still holds about twenty tons of distilledwater, although it gives drink to some thirty mouths composingthe establishment. Finally, the old steamer has done its dutywell, and, like the proverbial Marine, is still ready to do itsduty again. [EN#44]

Thus the expense of laying out the quarantine-ground at El-Wijhhas been pitifully wasted. That, however, is a very small matter;the neglect of choosing a proper position is serious, evenominous. Unlike Tor, nothing can be healthier or freer from feverthan the pilgrims' plateau. From El-Wijh, too, escape ishopeless: the richest would not give a piastre to levant;because, if a solitary traveller left the caravan, a Bedawibullet would soon prevail on him to stop. This, then, should bethe first long halt for the "compromised" travelling northwards. When contagious disease has completely disappeared, the secondprecautionary delay might be either at Tor or, better still, atthe "Wells of Moses" (‘Uyun Músá), near the head of the SuezGulf: here sanitary conditions are far more favourable; and heresupplies, including medical comforts, would be cheaper as well asmore abundant. Briefly, it is my conviction that, under presentcircumstances, "Tor" is a standing danger, not only to Egypt, butto universal Europe. 

The coast about El-Wijh is famed for shells; the numerous reefsand shoals favouring the development of the molluscs. We werepromised a heavy haul by the citizens, who, however, contentedthemselves with picking up the washed-out specimens foundeverywhere on the shore: unfortunately we had no time tosuperintend the work. A caseful was submitted to the BritishMuseum, and a few proved interesting on account of theirlocality. The list printed at the end of this chapter was kindlysupplied to me by Mr. Edgar A. Smith, superintendent of theConchological Department. 

I will conclude this chapter with a short notice the Hutaym orHitaym, a people extremely interesting to me. They are known totravellers only as a low caste. Wellsted (II. Xii. ) tells us thatthe "Huteimi, " whom he would make the descendants of theIchthyophagi described by Diodorus Siculus and other classics, are noticed by several Arabian authorities. "In one, the Kitabel-Mush Serif[EN#45] (Musharrif?), they are styled ‘Hooteďn, ' thedescendants of ‘Hooter, ' a servant of Moses. " He also relates alegend that the Apostle of Allah pronounced them polluted, because they ate the flesh of dogs. Others declare that theyopposed Mohammed when he was rebuilding the Ka'bah; and therebydrew upon themselves the curse that they should be held the"basest of the Arabs. " These tales serve to prove one fact, theantiquity of the race. 

The Hutaym, meaning the "Broken" (tribe), hold, in Midian andEgypt, the position of Pariahs, like the Akhdám "serviles", orHelots, of Maskat and El-Yemen. No clan of pure Arabs willintermarry with them; and when the Fellahs say, Tatahattim(=tatamaskin or tatazalli), they mean, "Thou cringest, thou makestthyself contemptible as a Hutaymi. " Moreover, they must pay thedishonouring Akháwat, or "brother-tax, " to all the Bedawinamongst whom they settle. 

The Hutaym are scattered as they are numerous. They haveextended, probably in ancient times, to Upper Egypt, and occupyparts of Nubia; about Sawákin they are an important clan. Theynumber few in the Sinaitic Peninsula and in Midian, but theyoccupy the very heart of the Arabian Peninsula. Those settled onJebel Libn, we have seen, claim as their kinsman the legendary‘Antar, who was probably a negro of the noble Semitic stock. Afew are camped about El-Wijh; and they become more important downcoast. In the eastern regions bordering upon Midian, they formlarge and powerful bodies, such as the Nawámisah and theSharárát, whose numbers and bravery secure for them the respectof their fighting equestrian neighbours, the Ruwalá-‘Anezah. 

Like other Arabs, the Hutaym tribe is divided into a multitude ofclans, septs, and families, each under its own Shaykh. All areMoslems, after the Desert pattern, a very rude and inchoatearticle. Wellsted knew them by their remarkably broad chins: theBedawi recognize them by their look; by their peculiar accent, and by the use of certain peculiar words, as Harr! whendonkey-driving. The men are unwashed and filthy; the women walkabroad unveiled, and never refuse themselves, I am told, to thehigher blood. 

The Arabs of Midian always compare the Hutaym with the Ghagar(Ghajar) or Gypsies of Egypt; and this is the point which givesthe outcasts a passing interest. I have not yet had anopportunity of carefully studying the race; nor can I say whetherit shows any traces of skill in metal-working. Meanwhile, we mustinquire whether these Helots, now so dispersed, are not oldimmigrants of Indian descent, who have lost their Aryan language, like the Egyptian Ghajar. In that case they would represent thedescendants of the wandering tribes who worked the most ancientateliers. Perhaps they may prove to be congeners of the men ofthe Bronze Age, and of the earliest waves of Gypsy-immigrationinto Europe. 

 NOTE. 

A list of the shells collected by the second Khedivial Expeditionon the shore of Midian and the Gulf of ‘Akabah, by Edgar A. Smith, Esq. , British Museum. 

I. Gastropoda. 1. Conus textile, Linné. 2. Conus sumatrensis, Hwass. 3. Conus catus var. , Hwass. 4. Conus larenatus, Hwass. 5. Conus hebrćus, Linné. 6. Conus ividus(?), Hwass. 6a. Conus ceylanensis, Hwass. 7. Terebra maculata, Linné. 8. Terebra dimidiata, Linné. 9. Terebra consobrina, Deshayes. 10. Terebra (Impages) cćrulescens, Lamarck. 11. Pleurotoma cingulifera, Lamarck. 11a. Murex tribulus, Linn. 12. Murex (Chicoreus) inflatus, Lamarck. 13. Cassidulus paradisiacus, Reeve. 14. Nassa coronata, Lamarck. 15. Nassa pulla, Linné. 16. Engina (Pusiostoma) mendicaria, Lamarck. 17. Cantharus (Tritonidea) sp. Juv. 18. Purpura hippocastanum, Lamarck. 19. Sistrum arachnoides, Lamarck. 20. Sistrum fiscellum, Chemnitz. 21. Sistrum tuberculatum, Blainville. 22. Harpa solida, A. Adams. 23. Fasciolaria trapezium, Lamarck. 24. Turbinella cornigera, Lamarck. 25. Dolium (Malea) pomum, Linné. 26. Triton maculosus, Reeve. 27. Triton aquatilis, Reeve. 28. Triton (Persona) anus, Lamarck. 29. Natica (Polinices) mamilla, Linné. 30. Natica albula(?), Récluz. 31. Natica (Mamilla) melanostoma, Lamarck. 32. Solarium perspectivum, Linné. 33. Cyprća arabica, Linné. 34. Cyprća pantherina, Linné. 35. Cyprća camelopardalis, Perry. 36. Cyprća carneola, Linné. 37. Cyprća scurra, Chemnitz. 38. Cyprća erosa, Linné. 39. Cyprća tabescens(?), Solander. 40. Cyprća caurica, Linné. 41. Cyprća talpa, Linné. 41B. Cypraea lynx, Linné. 42. Cerithium tuberosum, Fabricius. 43. Turritella torulosa(?), Kiener. 44. Strombus tricornis, Lamarck. 45. Strombus gibberulus, Linné. 46. Strombus floridus, Lamarck. 47. Strombus fasciatus, Born. 48. Pterocera truncatum, Lamarck. 49. Planaxis breviculus, Deshayes. 50. Nerita marmorata, Reeve. 51. Nerita quadricolor, Gmelin. 52. Nerita rumphii Récluz. 53. Turbo petholatus, Linné. 54. Turbo chrysostoma var. (?), Linné. 55. Trochus (Pyramis) dentatus, Forskâl. 56. Trochus (Cardinalia) virgatus, Gmelin. 57. Trochus (Polydonta) sanguinolentus, Chemnitz. 58. Trochus (Clanculus) pharaonis, Linné. 59. Trochus (Monodonta) sp. 60. Patella variabilis(?), Krauss. 61. Chiton sp. 62. Bulla ampulla, Linné. 

II. Conchifera

 63. Dione florida, Lamarck. 64. Dione sp. 65. Tellina staurella, Lamarck. 66. Paphia glabrata, Gmelin. 67. Chama Ruppellii, Reeve. 68. Arca (Barbatia) sp. 68a Arca (Senilia) sp. 69. Cardium leucostoma, Born. 70. Venericardia Cumingii, Deshayes. 71. Modiola auriculata, Krauss. 72. Pectunculus lividus, Reeve. 73. Pectunculus pectenoides, Deshayes. 74. Avicula margaritifera, Linné. 75. Tridacna gigas, Linné. 

 Chapter XV. The Southern Sulphur-hill--the Cruise to El-Haurá--Notes on theBaliyy Tribe and the Volcanic Centres of North--Western Arabia. 

On the day of our arrival at El-Wijh I sent a hurried letter ofinvitation to Mohammed ‘Afnán, Shaykh of the Baliyy tribe;inviting him to visit the Expedition, and to bring with himseventy camels and dromedaries. His tents being pitched at adistance of three days' long march in the interior, I determinednot to waste a precious week at the end of the cold season; andthe party was once more divided. Anton, the Greek, was left asstorekeeper, with orders to pitch a camp, to collect as muchmunition de bouche as possible, and to prepare for this year'slast journey into the interior. MM. Marie and Philipin, withLieutenant Yusuf, Cook Giorji, and Body-servant Ali Marie, weredirected to march along the shore southwards. After inspecting athird Jebel el-Kibrít, they would bring back notices of the WadyHamz, near whose banks I had heard vague reports of a Gasr(Kasr), "palace" or "castle, " built by one Gurayyim Sa'íd. Meanwhile, the rest of us would proceed in the Sinnár toEl-Haurá, a roundabout cruise of a hundred miles to the south. 

M. Philipin lost time in shoeing very imperfectly his four mules;and M. Marie, who could have set out with eight camels at anymoment, delayed moving till March 26th. The party was composed ofa single Básh-Buzúk from the fort, and two quarrymen: the RasKáfilah was young Shaykh Sulaymán bin ‘Afnán--of whom morepresently--while his brother-in-law Hammád acted guide. At 6. 40a. M. They struck to the south-east of the town, and passed thetwo brackish pits or wells, Bir el-Isma'íl and El-Sannúsi, whichsupply the poor of the port. Thence crossing the broad Wadyel-Wijh, they reached, after a mile's ride, Wady Melláhah, or"the salina. " It is an oval, measuring some eighteen hundredyards from north to south: the banks are padded with brown slushfrosted white; which, in places, "bogs" the donkeys and admitsmen to the knee. Beyond it lie dazzling blocks of purecrystallized salt; and the middle of the pond is open, tenantedby ducks and waterfowl, and visited by doves and partridges. Atthe lower or northern end, a short divide separates it from thesea; and the waves, during the high westerly gales, run farinland: it would be easy to open a regular communication betweenthe harbour and its saltern. The head is formed by the large WadySurrah, whose many feeders at times discharge heavy torrents. Thewalls of the valley-mouth are marked, somewhat like the Hárr, with caverned and corniced cliffs of white, canary-yellow, andlight-pink sandstone. 

They then left to the right the long point Ras el-Ma'llah, fronting Mardúnah Island. Here, as at El-‘Akabah and Makná, sweetwater springs from the salt sands of the shore; a freak ofdrainage, a kind of "Irish bull" of Nature, so common upon thedangerous Somali seaboard. The tract leads to the south-east, never further from the shore than four or five miles, butseparated by rolling ground which hides the main. For the samereason the travellers were unable to sight the immensedevelopment of granite-embedded quartz, which lurks amongst thehills to the inland or east, and which here subtends the wholecoast-line. They imagined themselves to be in a purely Secondaryformation of gypsum and conglomerates, cut by a succession ofWady-beds like the section between El-Muwaylah and ‘Aynúnah. Thusthey crossed the mouths of the watercourses, whose heads we shallsight during the inland march, and whose mid-lengths we shallpass when marching back to El-Wijh. 

These exceedingly broad beds are divided, as usual, by long linesof Nature-metalled ground. The first important feature is theWady Surrah, which falls into the Wady el-Wijh a little above theharbour-pier: its proper and direct mouth, El-Gá'h (Ká'h), or"the Hall, " runs along-shore into the Melláhah. It drains theHamíratayn, or "Two Reds;" the Hamírat Surrah in the Rughám orSecondary formation, and the granitic mass Hamírat el-Nabwah, where the plutonic outbreaks begin. Amongst the number ofimportant formations are:--the Wady el-Miyáh, which has a largesalt-well near the sea, and down whose upper bed we shall travelafter leaving Umm el-Karáyát; the Wady el-Kurr, whoseacquaintance we shall make in the eastern region; and the Wadyel-‘Argah (‘Arjah). The latter is the most interesting. Near itshead we shall find knots of ruins, and the quartz-reefAbá'l-Marú; while lower down the bed, on the north-east side of ahill facing the valley, Lieutenant Yusuf came upon a rockscrawled over with religious formulć, Tawakkaltu ‘al' Allah ("Irely upon Allah"), and so forth, all in a comparatively modernArabic character. The inscriptions lie to the left of the shoreroad, and to the right of the pilgrim-highway; thus showing thatminers, not passing travellers, have here left their mark. 

After riding five hours and forty minutes (= seventeen miles) theparty reached the base of the third sulphur-hill discovered bythe Expedition on the coast of Midian. Also known as the Tuwayyilel-Kibrít, the "Little-long (Ridge) of Brimstone, " it appearsfrom afar a reddish pyramid rising about two miles inland of aninlet, which is said to be safe navigation. Thus far it resemblesthe Jibbah find: on the other hand, it is not plutonic, butchalky like those of Makná and Sinai, the crystals beingsimilarly diffused throughout the matrix. In the adjoining hillsand cliffs the Secondaries and the conglomerates take all shadesof colour, marvellous to behold when the mirage raises to giantheights the white coast-banks patched with pink, red, mauve, anddark brown. Moreover, the quarries of mottled alabaster, whichthe Ancients worked for constructions, still show themselves. 

The travellers slept at the base of the Tuwayyil. Next morning M. Philipin proceeded to collect specimens of the sulphur and of thechalcedony-agate strewed over the plain, and here seen for thefirst time. M. Marie and Lieutenant Yusuf rode on to the banks ofthe Wady Hamz; and, after three hours (= nine miles), they cameupon the "Castle" and unexpectedly turned up trumps. I hadcarelessly written for them the name of a ruin which all, naturally enough, believed would prove to be one of the normalbarbarous Hawáwít. They brought back specimens of civilizedarchitecture; and these at once determined one of the objectivesof our next journey. The party returned to El-Wijh on the nextday, in the highest of spirits, after a successful trip of morethan fifty miles. 

Meanwhile I steamed southwards, accompanied by the rest of theparty, including the Sayyid, Shaykh Furayj, and the ex-Wakíl, Mohammed Shahádah, who is trusted by the Bedawin, and who broughtwith him a guide of the Fawá'idah-Juhaynah, one Rájih ibn ‘Ayid. This fellow was by no means a fair specimen of his race: thecynocephalous countenance, the cobweb beard, and the shifting, treacherous eyes were exceptional; the bellowing voice and thegreed of gain were not. He had a free passage for himself, hischild, and eight sacks of rice, with the promise of a napoleon byway of "bakhshísh;" yet he complained aloud that he had no meatto break his fast at dawn--an Arab of pure blood would ratherhave starved. He shirked answering questions concerning thenumber of his tribe. "Many, many!" was all the information wecould get from him; and his Arabic wanted the pure pronunciation, and the choice vocabulary, that usually distinguish the Juhaynipilots. Arrived at his own shore, he refused to make arrangementsfor disembarking his rice; he ordered, with bawling accents andpointed stick, the sailors of the man-of-war to land it at theplace chosen by himself; and he bit his finger when informed thata sound flogging was the normal result of such impudence. 

We set out at 4. 30 p. M. (March 24th); and steamed due west tillwe had rounded the northern head of El-Raykhah, a long low islandwhich, lying west-south-west of El-Wijh, may act breakwater inthat direction. Then we went south-west, and passed to port thewhite rocks of Mardu'nah Isle, which fronts the Ras el-Ma'llah, capping the ugly reefs and shoals that forbid tall ships to hugthis section of the shore. It is described as a narrow ridge ofcoralline, broken into pointed masses two to three hundred feethigh, whose cliffs and hollows form breeding-places for wildpigeons: the unusually rugged appearance is explained by the factthat here the "Jinns" amuse themselves with hurling rocks at oneanother. Before night we had sighted the Ras Kurkumah, so calledfrom its "Curcuma" (turmeric) hue, the yellow point facing theislet-tomb of Shaykh Marbat. [EN#46] Upon this part of the shore, I was told, are extensive ruins as yet unvisited by Europeans, the dangerous Juhaynah being the obstacle. To the south-easttowered tall and misty forms, the Gháts of theTihámat-Jahaníyyah. Northernmost, and prolonging the Libn, thatminiature Shárr, is the regular wall of the Jebel el-Ward; thencome the peaks and pinnacles of the Jibál el-Safhah; and lastly, the twin blocks El-Rál, between which passes the Egyptian Hajjwhen returning from El-Medínah. Faint resemblances of thesefeatures sprawl, like huge caterpillars, over the HydrographicChart, but all sprawl unnamed. 

By way of extra precaution we stood to the south instead of thesouth-east, thus lengthening to one hundred and twenty knots thenormal hundred (dir. Geog. Sixty-eight) separating El-Wijh fromthe Jebel Hassáni. Moreover, we caught amidships a fine lumpysea, that threatened to roll the masts out of the stout oldcorvette. As the Sinnár, which always reminded me of herMajesty's steamship Zebra, is notably the steadiest ship in theEgyptian navy, the captain was asked about his ballast. Hereplied, "I have just taken command, but I don't think there isany; the engine (El-‘iddah) is our Saburra"--evidently he hadnever seen the hold. This state of things, which, combined withopen ports, foundered her Majesty's sailing frigate Eurydice, appears the rule of the Egyptian war-navy. I commend theconsideration to English sailors. 

The steering also was detestable; and the man at the wheel couldnot see the waves--a sine quâ non to the mariner in theselatitudes, who "broaches to" whenever he can. A general remark:The Egyptian sailor is first-rate in a Dahabiyyah (Nile-boat), which he may capsize once in a generation; and ditto in a Red SeaSambúk, where he is also thoroughly at home. The same was thecase with the Sultan of Maskat's Arabo-English navy: the Arabsand Sídís (negroes) were excellent at working their Mtepe-craft;on frigates they were monkeys, poor copies of men. Our Europeanvessels are beyond and above the West Asiatic and the African. Hebecomes at the best a kind of imitation Jack Tar. He will not, orrather he cannot, take the necessary trouble, concentrate hisattention, fix his mind upon his "duties. " He says "Inshallah;"he relies upon Allah; and he prays five times a day, when heshould be giving or receiving orders. The younger generation ofofficers, it is true, drinks wine, and does not indulge inorisons whilst it should be working; but its efficiency isimpaired by the difficulties and delay in granting pensions. Themany grey beards, however carefully dyed, suggest an equipage devétérans. 

The consequence of yawing and of running half-speed by night wasthat we reached Jebel Hassáni just before noon, instead of eighta. M. , on the 25th. The island, whose profile slopes to thesouth-eastward, is a long yellow-white ridge, a lump of corallinefour hundred feet high, bare and waterless in summer: yet itfeeds the Bedawi flocks at certain seasons. It is buttressed andbluff to the south-west, whence the strongest winds blow; and itis prolonged by a flat spit to the south-east, and by a long tailof two vertebrae, a big and a little joint, trending north-west. Thus it gives safe shelter from the Wester to Arabbarques;[EN#47] and still forms a landmark for those navigatingbetween Jeddah, Kusayr, and Suez. Its parallel runs a few milesnorth of the Dćdalus Light (north lat. 24° 55' 30") to the west;and it lies a little south of El-Haurá on the coast, and ofEl-Medínah, distant about one hundred and thirty direct miles inthe interior. If Ptolemy's latitudes are to be consulted, JebelHassáni would be the Timagenes Island in north lat. 25° 40'; andthe corresponding Chersónesus Point is represented by theimportant and well-marked projection "Abú Madd, " which interceptsthe view to the south. 

After rounding the southern spit, we turned to north-east and byeast, and passed, with a minimum of seven fathoms under keel, between Hassáni the Giant and the dwarf Umm Sahr, a flat sandbankhardly visible from the shore. This is the only good approach tothe secure and spacious bay that bore the southernmost Nabathćanport-town: there are northern and north-western passages, butboth require skilful pilots; and every other adit, thoughapparently open, is sealed by reefs and shoals. With the blue andregular-lined curtain of Abú el-Ghurayr in front, stretching downcoast to Ras Abú Madd, we bent gradually round to the north-eastand east. We then left to starboard the settlement El-Amlij, along line of separate ‘Ushash, the usual Ichthyophagan huts, dull, dark-brown wigwams. They were apparently deserted; atleast, only two women appeared upon the shore, but sundryKatírahs and canoes warned us that fishermen were about. We ranfor safety a mile and three-quarters north of the exposed Rasel-Haurá; and at 1. 30 p. M. (= twenty-one hours) we anchored, innine fathoms, under the Kutá'at el-Wazamah. The pea-greenshallows, which defended us to the north and south, had latelygiven protection to the Khedivíyyah[EN#48] steamer El-Hidayyidah, compelled by an accident to creep along-shore like a Sambúk. 

El-Haura' is not found either in the charts, or in Ptolemy's andSprenger's maps. It lies in north lat. 25° 6', about the sameparallel as El-Medínah; and in east long. (Gr. ) 37° 13'30". [EN#49] Wellsted (II. X. ) heard of its ruins, but never sawit: at least, he says, "In the vicinity of El-Haurá, according tothe Arabs, are some remains of buildings and columns, but ourstay on the coast was too limited to permit our examining thespot. " He is, however, greatly in error when he adds, "Near thisstation the encampments of the Bili' (Baliyy) tribe to thesouthward terminate, and those of the Joheďnah commence. " As hasbeen seen, the frontier is nearly fifty miles further north. Henotices (chap. Ix. ) the "White Village" to differ with Vincent, who would place it at El-Muwaylah; but he translates the word(ii. 461) "the bright-eyed girl, " instead of Albus (Vicus). Hequotes, however, the other name, Dár el-‘ishrin ("TwentiethStation"), so called because the Cairo caravan formerly reachedit in a score of days, now reduced to nineteen. He seems, finally, to have landed in order to inspect "a ruined town on themain, " and to have missed it. 

According to Sprenger, the "White Village, or Castle, " was not aThamudite, but a Nabathćan port. Here Ćelius Gallius disembarkedhis troops from Egypt. Strabo (xvi. C. 4, § 24) shows that was the starting-place of the caravans which, beforethe Nile route to Alexandria was opened, carried to Petra themerchandise of India and of Southern Arabia. Thence the importswere passed on to Phoenicia and Egypt:--these pages have shownwhy the journey would be preferred to the voyage northward. He isconfirmed by the "Periplus, " which relates (chap. Xix. ) that"from the port, and the castellum of Leukč Kóme, a road leads toPetra, the capital of the Malicha (El-Malik), King of theNabathćans: it also serves as an emporium to those who bringwares in smaller ships from Arabia (Mocha, Múza, and Aden). Forthe latter reason, a Perceptor or toll-taker, who leviestwenty-five per cent. Ad valorem, and a Hekatontarches(centurion), with a garrison, are there stationed. " As the Nabatćwere vassals of Rome, and the whole region had been ceded to theRomans (Byzantines) by a chief of the Beni Kudá' tribe, thisYuzbáshi or "military commandant" was probably a Roman. 

El-Haurá, like most of the ruined settlements upon this coast, shows two distinct "quarters;" a harbour-town and what may becalled a country-town. The latter, whose site is by far the morepicturesque and amene, lay upon a long tongue of land backing theslope of the sea-cliff, and attached to the low whitish hillocksand pitons rising down south. It is now a luxuriant orchard ofemerald palms forming three large patches. Behind it swells adorsum of golden-yellow sand; and the horizon is closed by rangesof hills and highlands, red and white, blue and black. Our eyesare somewhat startled by the amount of bright and vivid green:for some reason, unknown to us, the shore is far more riant thanthe northern section; and the land might be calledquasi-agricultural. The whole coast seems to be broken withverdant valleys; from the Wady el-‘Ayn, with its numerousbranches beautifying the north, to the Wady el-Daghaybaj in thesouth, supplying water between its two paps. 

On the evening of our arrival, we landed in a shallow bay bearingnorth-north-east (30° mag. ) from the roads where the corvette layat anchor; and walked a few yards inland to the left bank of theWady el-Samnah, the unimportant Fiumara draining low hills of thesame name. The loose sand is everywhere strewed with bits oflight porous lava, which comes from the Harrat el-Buhayr, a bluffquoin to the north-west. About El-Haurá, I have said, thevolcanic formations, some sixty miles inland on the parallel ofEl-Muwaylah, approach the coast. 

We were guided to the ruins by the shouts of sundry Arabsdefending their harvest against a dangerous enemy, thebirds--rattles and scarecrows were anything but scarce. Apparently the sand contains some fertilizing matter. A field ofdry and stunted Dukhn (Holcus Dochna), or small millet, nearlycovers the site of the old castle, whose outline, nearly buriedunder the drift of ages, we could still trace. There are twoelevations, eastern and western; and a third lies to the north, on the right side of the Wady Samnah. Scatters of the usualfragments lay about, and the blocks of white coralline explainedthe old names--Whitton, Whitworth, Whitby. The Bedawin preservethe tradition that this was the most important part of thesettlement, which extended southwards nearly four miles. Thedwarf valley-mouth is still a roadstead, where two small craftwere anchored; and here, doubtless, was the corner of the hiveallotted to the community's working-bees. An old fibster, Hámidel-Fá'idi, declared that he would bring us from the adjacenthills a stone which, when heated, would pour forth metal likewater--and never appeared again. It was curious to remark howcompletely the acute Furayj believed him, because both were Arabsand brother Bedawin. 

Next morning we set out, shortly after the red and dewy sunrise, to visit the south end of Leukč Kóme. The party consisted oftwenty marines under an officer, besides our escort of ten negro"Remingtons:" the land was open, and with these thirty I wouldwillingly have met three hundred Bedawin. Our repulse from theHismá had rankled in our memories, and we only wanted anopportunity of showing fight. After rowing a mile we landed, south-east of the anchorage (127° mag. ), at a modern ruin, fourblocks of the rudest masonry, built as a store by a Yambú'merchant. Unfortunately he had leased the ground from theFawá'idah clan, when the Hámidah claim it: the result was a"faction fight"--and nothing done. 

A few minutes' walking, over unpleasantly deep sand, placed usupon the Hajj-road. It is paved, like the shore, with naturalslabs and ledges of soft modern sandstone; and, being foot-worn, it makes a far better road than that which connects Alexandriawith Ramleh. The broad highway, scattered with quartz and basalt, greenstone, and serpentine, crossed one of the many branches ofthe Wady el-‘Ayn: in the rich and saltish sand grew crops ofDukhn, and the Halfá-grass (Cynosures durus) of the Nile Valley, with tamarisk-thickets, and tufts of fan-palm. On its left bank alamp-black vein of stark-naked basalt, capped by jagged blocks, ran down to the sea, and formed a conspicuous buttress. Theguides spoke of a similar volcanic outcrop above Point Abú Maddto the south; and of a third close to Yambá' harbour. 

An hour of "stravaguing" walk showed us the first sign of theruins: wall-bases built with fine cement, crowning the summit ofa dwarf mound to the left of the road; well-worked scorić werealso scattered over its slopes. We now entered the date orchardsconspicuous from the sea: on both sides of us were fences ofthorn, tamped earth, and dry stone; young trees had been planted, and, beyond the dates, large fields of Dukhn again gave anagricultural touch to the scene. Flocks of sheep and goats werebeing grazed all around us; and the owners made no difficulty, asthey would have done further north, in selling us half a dozen. 

We then entered the Wady Haurá, where the caravan camps. It is acheery charming site for rich citizens, with its plain of richvegetation everywhere, say the natives, undermined by water; itsopen sea-view to the west; its mound of clean yellow sand behind, extending to the rocky horizon; and its pure fresh breezesblowing from the Nejd with an indescribable sense of lightnessand health and enjoyment. In fact, it has all the accessories ofan "eligible position. " At the third or southern palm patch, wefound the only public work which remains visible in the greatNabathaean port. It was formerly a Káríz, theunderground-aqueduct so common in Persia; and it conductedtowards the sea the drainage of the Jebel Turham, a round knobshown in the Chart, which bears south-east (121° mag. ) from theconduit-head. The line has long ago been broken down by theArabs; and the open waters still supply the Hajj-caravan. The‘Ayn ("fountain") may be seen issuing from a dark cavern of whitecoralline: the water then hides itself under several filled-uppits, which represent the old air-holes; and, after flowing belowsundry natural arches, the remains of the conduit-ceiling, itemerges in a deep fissure of saltish stone. From this part of itsbanks we picked up fair specimens of saltpetre. The lower courseabounds in water-beetles, and is choked with three kinds ofaquatic weeds. After flowing a few yards it ends in a shallowpool, surrounded by palms and paved with mud, which attractsflights of snipes, sandpipers, and sandgrouse. 

The turbulent "Dog's Sons"[EN#50] were mostly in the upper lands;but a few wretched fellows, with swords, old spears, andridiculous matchlocks, assembled and managed to get up a squabbleabout the right of leading strangers into "our country"(Bilád-ná). The doughty Rájih ibn ‘Ayid, who, mounted upon a meandromedary, affected to be chief guide, seemed to treat theirpretensions as a serious matter, when we laughed them to scorn. He and all the other experts gave us wholly discouraging detailsconcerning a ruin represented to lie, some hours off, in thenearest of the southern Harrah. According to them, the Kasrel-Bint ("Maiden's Palace") was in the same condition asEl-Haurá; showing only a single pillar, perhaps the "columns" towhich Wellsted alludes. We could learn nothing concerning theyoung person whose vague name it bears; except that she preferredsettling on the mainland, whereas her brother built acorresponding castle upon the islet Jebel Hassáni. [EN#51] He islocally called Warakat ibn Naufal, a venerated name in theFatrah, or "interval, " between Jesus and Mohammed; he was theuncle of Khadijah the widow, and he is popularly supposed to havebeen a Christian. Here, as at other places, I inquired, at thesuggestion of a friend, but of course in vain, about the humanskeleton which Ibn Mujáwar, some six centuries ago, foundembedded in a rock near the sea-shore. 

Such is the present condition of the once famous emporium LeukčKóme. We returned along the shore to embark; and, shortly afternoon, the old corvette of Crimean date again swung round on herheel, and resumed her wanderings, this time northwards. The runof eighteen hours and fifteen minutes was semicircular, but thesea had subsided to a dead calm. The return to El-Wijh felt likebeing restored to civilization; we actually had a salad of radishleaves--delicious!

Our travel will now lie through the Baliyy country, and a fewwords concerning this ancient and noble tribe may here be given. Although they apparently retain no traditions of their origin, they are known to genealogists as a branch of the Beni Kudá', who, some fifteen centuries ago, emigrated from Southern Arabia, and eventually exterminated the Thamudites. I have noted theirnorthern and southern frontiers: to the north-east they arebounded by the vicious Ma'ázah and the Ruwalá-‘Anezahs, and tothe south-east by the Alaydán-‘Anezahs, under Shaykh Mutlak. Liketheir northern nomadic neighbours, they have passed over toEgypt, and even the guide-books speak of the "Billi" in thevalley of the Nile. 

The Baliyy modestly rate their numbers at four thousand muskets, by which understand four hundred. Yet they divide themselves intoa multitude of clans; our companion, the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah, can enumerate them by the score; and I wrote down thetwenty-three principal, which are common both to South Midian andto Egypt. The chief Shaykh, Mohammed ‘Afnán ibn Ammár, can reckonbackwards seven generations, beginning from a certain ShaykhSultán. About ten years ago he allowed the tribe to indulge insuch dangerous amusements as "cutting the road" and plunderingmerchants. It is even asserted, privily, that they captured thefort of El-Wijh, by bribing the Turkish Topji ("head gunner"), tofire high--like the half-caste artilleryman who commanded theTalpúr cannoneers at Sir Charles Napier's Battle of "Meeanee. " Aregiment of eight hundred bayonets was sent from Egypt, and theShaykh was secured by a Hílah, or "stratagem;" that is, he waspromised safe conduct: he trusted himself like a fool, he wasseized, clapped in irons, and sent to jail in the Citadel ofCairo. Here he remained some seven months in carcere duro, dailyexpecting death, when Fate suddenly turned in his favour; he wassent for by the authorities, pardoned for the past, cautioned forthe future, and restored to his home with a Murátibah ("regularpension") of eight hundred piastres per mensem, besides rationsand raiment. The remedy was, like cutting off the nose of awicked Hindú wife, sharp but effective. Shaykh ‘Afnan and histribe are now models of courtesy to strangers; and the travellermust devoutly wish that every Shaykh in Arabia could be subjectedto the same discipline. 

The Baliyy are a good study of an Arab tribe in the rough. TheHuwaytát, for example, know their way to Suez and to Cairo; theyhave seen civilization; they have learned, after a fashion, theoutlandish ways of the Frank, the Fellah, and the Turk-fellow. The Baliyy have to be taught all these rudiments. Cunning, tricky, and "dodgy, " as is all the Wild-Man-race, they lie likethe "childish-foolish, " deceiving nobody but themselves. Aninstance: Hours and miles are of course unknown to them, but theybegan with us by affecting an extreme ignorance of comparativedistances; they could not, or rather they would not, adopt as astandard the two short hours' march between the Port and theinland Fort of El-Wijh. When, however, the trick was pointed outto them, they at once threw it aside as useless. No pretext wastoo flimsy to shorten a march or to cause a halt--the northernersdid the same, but with them we had a controlling power in theshape of Shaykh Furayj. And like the citizens, they hate ourmanner of travelling: they love to sit up and chat through halfthe night; and to rise before dawn is an abomination to them. 

At first their manners, gentle and pliable, contrast pleasantlywith the roughness of the half-breds, Huwaytát and Maknáwi, whohave many of the demerits of the Fellah, without acquiring themerits of the Bedawi. As camel-men they were not difficult todeal with; nor did they wrangle about their hire. Presently theyturned out to be "poor devils, " badly armed, and not trained tothe use of matchlocks. Their want of energy in beating the bushesand providing forage for their camels, compared with that of thenortherners, struck us strongly. On the other hand, they seem topreserve a flavour of ancient civilization, which it is not easyto describe; and they certainly have inherited the instincts andtastes of the old metal-workers: they are a race of born miners. That sharpest of tests, the experience of travel, at lastsuggested to us that the Baliyy is too old a breed; and that itsblue blood wants a "racial baptism, " a large infusion ofsomething newer and stronger. 

 Note on the "Harrahs" of Arabia. 

The learned Dr. J. G. Wetzstein, in the appendix to his"Reisebericht, " etc. , [EN#52] records a conversation with A. VonHumboldt and Carl Ritter (April, 1859), respecting the specimenswhich he had brought from the classical Trachonitis. Theirappearance led the latter to question whether the latesteruptions of the Harrat Rájil, as it is called from an adjoiningvalley, may not have taken place within the historic period; andhe referred to Psalm xviii. As seeming to note the occurrence, during David's reign, of such a phenomenon in or near Palestine. Humboldt deemed it probable that the Koranic legend (chap. Iv. )of the Abyssinian host under Abraha destroyed by a shower ofstones baked in hell-fire, referred, not to small-pox as isgenerally supposed, but to an actual volcanic eruption in Arabia. 

"With what interest would that great man have learnt, " writes Dr. Wetzstein, "that, as I was turning over the leaves of Yákút's‘Geographical Lexicon, ' only a few days ago, I found that theArabians knew of the existence of twenty-eight different volcanicregions between Hauran and Bab el-Mandeb!" Later still, Dr. OttoLoth published an elaborate paper "On the Volcanic Regions(Harras) of Arabia, according to Yakut" (thirteenth century), inwhich these eruptive sites are nearly all identified anddescribed. 

"Among the numerous volcanoes thus found to exist within theArabian Peninsula, " remarks Dr. Beke, [EN#53] "the only onerecorded as having been in activity within the historic period isthe Harrat-el-Nar (‘Fire Harra'), situate to the north-east ofMedina, in the neighbourhood of Khaibur (Khaybar), in about 26°. 30' north lat. , and 40°. East long. ; which, being traditionallysaid to have been in an active state six centuries beforeMohammed, had actually an eruption in the time of the Prophet'ssuccessor, Omar. To the north-west of this ‘Fire Harra' lies thatknown as the ‘Harra of (the tribe of) Udhra' (Azra): again, tothe north of this is the ‘Harra of Tabuk, ' so called from thestation of that name on the Hajj-road from Damascus to Mekka, theposition of which is in about 28 deg. 15' north lat. And 37 deg. East long. ; and beyond this last, further to the north, andconsequently between it and the northernmost Harra of the Râdjil, or Trachonitis, is the Harra Radjlâ. . . . Its designation, whichmeans ‘rough, ' ‘pathless, ' seems to indicate its peculiarlyrugged surface, and to lead to the inference that it is animmense field of lava. " He cites Irby and Mangles ("Travels inEgypt, " pp. 115, 116; reprinted by Murray, London, 1868), describing their route between Kerak and Petra, on the east sideof the Ghor or Wady ‘Arabah. "We noticed three dark volcanicsummits, very distinguishable from the land. The lava that hadstreamed from them forms a sort of island in the plain. "

Hence my late friend concluded that his "true Mount Sinai" wasthe focus and origin of this volcanic region; and that the latterwas the "great and terrible wilderness" (Deut. I. 19) throughwhich the children of Israel were led on their way to mysteriousKadesh-Barnea. Thus, too, he explained the "pillar of the cloudby day, " and the "pillow of fire by night" (Exod. Xiii. 21). 

 Chapter XVI. Our Last March--the Inland Fort--Ruins of the Gold-mines at Umm El-Karáyát and Umm El-Haráb. 

Again there were preliminaries to be settled before we couldleave El-Wijh for the interior. Shaykh Mohammed ‘Afnán had beenmarrying his son; and the tale of camels came in slowly enough. On the day after our return from El-Haurá the venerable old manpaid us a visit aboard Sinnár. He declares that he was a boy whenthe Wahhábi occupied Meccah and El-Medínah--that is, in 1803-4. Yet he has wives and young children. His principal want is a pairof new eyes; and the train of thought is, "I can't see when oldermen than myself can. " The same idea makes the African everattribute his sickness and death to sorcery: "Why should I loselife when all around me are alive?"--and this is the idea thatlies at the bottom of all witch-persecution. Two pair ofspectacles were duly despatched to him after our return to Cairo;and M. Lacaze there exhibited a capital sketch of thepicturesque, white-bearded face, with the straight features andthe nutcracker chin, deep buried in the folds of a huge redshawl. 

The son, Sulaymán, has been espoused to a cousin older, they say, than himself; and he seems in no hurry to conclude the marriage. He would willingly accompany us to Egypt, but he is the father'sfavourite, and the old man can do nothing without him. A youth ofabout eighteen, and even more handsome than his sire, he has thepretty look, the sloping shoulders, the soft snaky movements, andthe quiet, subdued voice of a nice girl. During the first marcheshe dressed in the finery of the Bedawin--the brillianthead-kerchief, the parti-coloured sandals, and the loose cloak ofexpensive broadcloth. The "toggery" looked out of place as thetoilettes of the Syrian ladies who called upon us in laces andblue satins amid the ruins of Ba'lbek. Although all the hiredcamels belonged, as is customary, to the tribe, not to theShaykh, the latter was accompanied by the usual "Hieland tail;"by his two nephews, Hammád and Náji, the latter our head-guide, addicted to reading, writing, and lying; by his favourite andfactotum, Abdullah, an African mulatto, Muwallid or "house-born;"and by his Wakíl ("agent"), a big black slave, Abdullah Mohammed, ready of tongue and readier of fist. Lastly, I must mention one‘Audah ‘Adayni, a Huwayti bred in the Baliyy country, a travellerto Cairo, passing intelligent and surpassing unscrupulous. Confidential for a consideration, he told all the secrets of hisemployers, and it is my firm conviction that he was liberallypaid for so doing by both parties of wiseacres. 

The immediate objective of this, our last march, was the Badáplain, of which we first heard at Shaghab. I purposedsubsequently to collect specimens of a traditional coal-mine, towhich his Highness the Viceroy had attached the highestimportance. Then we would march upon the Móchoura of theancients, the mediaeval El-Marwah or Zú Marwah, the modernMarwát-cum-Abá'l-Marú. Finally, we would return to El-Wijh, viâthe Wady Hamz, inspecting both it and the ruins first sighted byMM. Marie and Philipin. 

On Friday, March 29th, I gave a breakfast, in the woodenbarracks, to the officers of the Sinnár and the officials of theport. After which, some took their opium and went to sleep; whileothers, it being church-day, went to Mosque. We ran out ofEl-Wijh at 1. 45 p. M. , our convoy consisting of fifty-eightcamels, forty-four of which were loaded; seven were dromedaries, and an equal number carried water. All had assured us that therains of the two past years had been wanting: last winter theywere scanty; this cold season they were nil. In truth, the landwas suffering terribly from drought. Our afternoon was hot andunpleasant: about later March the Hawá el'-Uwwah, a violentsand-raising norther, sets in and lasts through a fortnight. Itis succeeded, in early April, by the calms of El-Ni'ám ("theBlessings"), which, divided into the Greater and the Less, lastforty days. After that the summer--Jehannum!

From the raised and metalled bank, upon which the Burj stands, wedescended to the broad mouth of the Wijh valley, draining the lowrolling blue-brown line of porphyritic hillocks on the east. Toour right lay the sparkling, glittering white plain and pool, El-Melláhah, "the salina. " After an hour and a quarter of sandyand dusty ride, we passed through a "gate" formed by theHamírat-Wijh, the red range which, backing the gape of the valleyand apparently close behind the town, strikes the eye from theoffing. Here the gypsum, ruddy and mauve, white and black, wasunderlaid by granite in rounded masses; and the Secondaryformation is succeeded by the usual red and green traps. Thoughthis part of our route lies in El-Tihámah, which, in fact, weshall not leave, we are again threading the Wady Sadr of thenorthern Shafah-range. A pleasant surprise was a fine vein ofsugary quartz trending north-south: at that period we littlesuspected the sub-range to the south--perhaps also thenorthern--of being, in places, one mighty mass of "white stone. "

After covering six miles in an hour and three-quarters, exaggerated by the guides to three, we suddenly sighted theinland fort. Its approach is that of a large encamping-ground, and such, indeed, it is; the Egyptian pilgrim-caravan here haltson the fourth day from El-Muwaylah. The broken, untidy environs, strewed with bones and rubbish, show low mounds that mean ovens;stone rings, where tents are pitched; and the usual graves, amongst which a reverend man, Shaykh Sálih, rests in a manner ofround tower. The site is, in one point at least, admirablywell-chosen, a kind of carrefour where four valleys and as manyroads meet; and thus it commands the mouths of all the gorgesleading inland. 

Riding up to the fort, we were welcomed by its commandant, Lieutenant Násir Ahmed, a peculiarly good specimen of his arm, the infantry. His garrison consists of thirteen regulars, whoseclean uniforms show discipline, and whose hale and heartycomplexions testify to the excellence of the water and the air. The men are paid annually by the treasurer of the Hajj-caravan. They are supposed to be relieved after seven years; but they havewives and families; and, like the British soldier in India half acentury ago, they are content to pass their working lives inlocal service. The commandant showed us over his castle, whichwas in excellent order; and brewed coffee, which we drank in thecool porch of the single gate. He then led us about theneighbourhood, and ended with inviting the Sáyyid, Furayj, andthe Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah to a copious feast. 

The fort is the usual square, straight-curtained work of solidmasonry, with a circular bastion at each angle, and a huge archedmain-entrance in the western façade. It is, in fact, one of thebuildings that belong to the solid, sturdy age of Sultán Selim, and of the Sinnán Pasha so well known about Damascus. Aninscription, with an illegible date, bears the name of Ahmed ibnTaylún, the founder of the Taylunide dynasty, in A. D. 868--884:this is another proof that the Mamlúk Soldans were lords of thesoil; and that, even in the ninth century, South Midian was aprovince, or a dependency, of Egypt. Moreover, we picked up, tothe north-east of the work, old and well-treated scorić, suggesting a more ancient settlement. Perhaps it was the localepreferred by the proprietors of the slaves who worked the innermines, hidden from view and from the sea-breeze by the hills. 

The castle being perfectly commanded by the heights behind, thecircular towers to the east have crests raised in that direction, giving them a spoon-shape, and a peculiar aptitude for arrestingevery cannon-ball coming from the west. The Bedawin, however, have no great guns; and apparently this shelter has been addedsince Wellsted's day. [EN#54] To the curtains are attached theusual hovels, mat, palm-leaf, and walls of dry stone or mud, which here, as at Palmyra, inevitably suggest wasp-nests. Thenorthern side is subtended by three large cisterns, allstrengthened at the inner angles by the stepped buttresses firstnoticed when we were exploring Magháir Shu'ayb. 

Up the valley and behind the fort, or to the north-east, lie thepalm-plantations, the small kitchen-gardens, and the far-famedwells which, dug by Sultán Selim and repaired by Ibrahim Pasha inA. D. 1524 (?), supply the Hajj-caravan. The sandy bed, disposedeast-west, is streaked, dotted, and barred with walls andoutcrops of the hardest greenstone porphyry; and those which runnorth-south must arrest, like dykes, the flow of waterunderground. One of these reefs is laboriously scraped withBedawi Wusúm, and with Moslem inscriptions comparatively modern. The material is heavy, but shows no quartz; whereas the smallervalleys which debouch upon the northern or right bank of the mainline, display a curious conformation of the "white stone, "contorted like oyster shells, and embedded in the trap. 

Of the six wells, revetted with masonry and resembling in allpoints those of Ziba, four, including El-Tawílah, the deepest, supply brackish water; and the same is the case with a fifthinside the fort, close to the chapel of his Holiness, ShaykhAbubakr. The water, however, appeared potable; and perhapscleaning out and deepening might increase the quantity. The sweetelement drunk by the richards of El-Wijh comes from the Birel-Za'faráníyyah ("of Saffron"), and from its north-easternneighbour, El-‘Ajwah ("the Date-paste"). The latter measures fouror five fathoms; and the water appears under a boulder in situthat projects from the southern side. The reader will now agreewith me that El-Wijh is not too drouthy for a quarantine-ground. 

The plots of green meat lie about the water, sheltered from theburning sun by a luxuriant growth of date-trees. The Egyptian isthe best man in the world for dabbling in mud; and here, byscraping away the surface-sand, he has come upon a clayey soilsufficiently fertile to satisfy his wants. The growth is confinedto tobacco, potatoes, and cabbages, purslain (Portulaca, pourpier), radishes, the edible Hibiscus, and tomatoes, which aresmall and green. Lettuces do not thrive; cucumbers andwater-melons have been tried here and up country; and--man wantslittle in Midian. 

We set out early on the next day (5. 30 a. M. , March 30th) indisorderly style. The night had been cool and comfortable, dryand dewless; but the Shaykhs were torpid after the feast, and theescort and quarrymen had been demoralized by a week of sweet"do-nothing. " Striking up the Wady el-Wijh, which now becomesnarrow and gorge-like, with old and new wells and water-pitsdotting the sole, we were stopped, after half an hour's walk, bya "written rock" on the right side of the bed. None of the guidesseemed to know or, at any rate, to care for it; although Iafterwards learnt that Admiral M'Killop (Pasha), during his lastvisit to El-Wijh, obtained a squeeze of the inscriptions. Wellsted (II. X. ) erroneously calls this valley "Wádí el-Moyah, "the name of a feature further south--thus leading me to expectthe find elsewhere. Moreover, he has copied the scrawls with acarelessness so prodigious, that we failed at first to recognizethe original. He has hit upon the notable expedient of massingtogether in a single dwarf wood-cut (Vol. II. P. 189) what coversmany square feet of stone; and I was fool enough to republish hiscopy. [EN#55]

A tall, fissured rock, of the hardest porphyritic greenstone, high raised from the valley-sole, facing north-west, andreducible to two main blocks, is scattered over with these"inscriptions, " that spread in all directions. Most of them areArab Wusum, others are rude drawings of men and beasts, amongstwhich are conspicuous the artless camel and the serpent; andthere is a duello between two funny warriors armed with sword andshield. These efforts of art resemble, not a little, the "Totem"attempts of the "Red Indians" in North and South America. Thereare, however, two scrapings evidently alphabetic, and probablyNabathćan, which are offered to the specialists in epigraphy: sixappear in Wellsted's illustration, especially that with a longline above it, near the left and lower corner of the cut. M. Lacaze and I copied the most striking features in our carnets; hetaking the right or southern side and leaving the other block tome. But the results did not satisfy us; and on April 10th I senthim with M. Philipin to make photographs. The latter, again, arehardly as satisfactory as they might be, because the inscriptionshave not been considered the central points of interest. We shallpass during our present journey many of these Oriental "JohnJoneses" and "Bill Browns:" they will suggest the similarfeatures of Sinaitic Wady Mukattib, which begot those monstrousgrowths, "The One Primaeval Language" and "The Voice of Israelfrom Mount Sinai. "[EN#56] From the "written rock" the caravantravelled westward up an easy watercourse, "El-Khaur, "distinguished as El-Shimálí ("the Northern"): it winds round bythe north, and we shall descend it to-morrow. The mule-ridersleft the Wady el-Wijh, which extends some two hours eastward, andstruck to the east-south-east. The bridle-path, running up theleft bank of an ugly rocky torrent, the Wady Zurayb, presentlyreaches a plateau undulating in low rises. Burnt with heat, almost bare of trees, and utterly waterless, it is the model of amining country: elevate it from five hundred to nine thousandfeet, and it would be the living (or dead) likeness of a Peruviancerro. The staple material, porphyritic trap, shows scatters ofquartz and huge veins, mostly trending north-south: largetrenches made, according to the guides, by the ancients, andsmall cairns or stone piles, modern work, were also pointed outto us. 

Crossing the heads of sundry watercourses, we fell into the WadyUmm el-Karáyat:[EN#57] it begins, as is here the rule, with agravelly bed, nice riding enough; it then breaks into ugly rockydrops and slides, especially at the hill shoulders, wherethorn-trees and other obstacles often suggest that it is betterto dismount; and, finally, when nearing the mouth, it becomes amatured copy of its upper self on an enlarged scale. Presently weturned to the left over a short divide, and stared withastonishment at the airy white heap, some two hundred feet high, which, capped and strewed with snowy boulders, seemed to floatabove our heads. The Wady-bed at our feet, lined along the leftbank with immense blocks of similar quartz, showed the bases ofblack walls--ruins. "Behold Umm el-Karáyát!" exclaimed Nájí, theguide, pointing with a wave of the arm, his usual theatricalgesture, to the scene before us. We could hardly believe oureyes: he had just assured us that the march from the fort is fourhours, and we had ridden it in two hours and fifteen minutes (=six miles and a quarter). 

Dismounting at once, and ordering the camp to be pitched near theruins, we climbed up the south-eastern face of the quartz-hill, whose appearance was a novelty to us. Instead of being a regular, round-headed cone, like the Jebel el-Abyaz for instance, thesummit was distinctly crateriform. The greater part of the daywas spent in examining it, and the following are the results. This Jebel el-Marú showed, for the first time during the wholejourney, signs of systematic and civilized work. In many partsthe hill has become a mere shell. We found on the near side aline of air-holes, cut in the quartz rock, disposed north-southof one another; and preserving a rim, sunk like that of asarcophagus, to receive a cover. Possibly it was a precautionagainst the plunder which ruined Brazilian Gongo Soco. The Arabshave no fear of these places, as in Wellsted's day, and Abdullah, the mulatto, readily descended into one about twelve feet belowthe surface. Messrs. Clarke and Marie explored the deepest bymeans of ropes, and declared that it measured sixty feet. Theyhad to be ready with their bayonets, as sign of hyenas wascommon; and the beast, which slinks away in the open is apt, whenbrought to bay in caverns, to rush past the intruder, carryingoff a jawful of calf or thigh. 

This pit had two main galleries, both choked with rubbish, leading to the east and west; and the explorers could see lightglimmering through the cracks and crevices of the roof--thesedoubtless gave passage to the wild carnivore. In other parts thesurface, especially where the earth is red, was pitted withshallow basins; and a large depression showed the sinking of thehollowed crust. Negro quartz was evidently abundant; but we cameto the conclusion that the rock mostly worked was, like that ofShuwák, a rosy, mauve-coloured schist, with a deep-red fracture, and brilliant colours before they are tarnished by atmosphericoxygen. It abounds in mica, which, silvery as fish-scales, overspreads it in patches; and the precious metal had probablybeen sought in the veinlets between the schist and itsquartz-walling. In two pieces, specks, or rather paillettes, ofgold were found lightly and loosely adhering to the "Marú ;" solightly, indeed, that they fell off when carelessly pocketedVeins of schist still remained, but in the galleries they hadbeen followed out to the uttermost fibril. 

Reaching the crateriform summit, we found that the head of thecone had either "caved in, " or had been carried off bodily to beworked. Here traces of fire, seen on the rock, suggested that ithad been split by cold affusion. A view from the summit of thisburrowed mound gave us at once the measure of the past work and amost encouraging prospect for the future. We determined that theMarwah or "quartz-hill" of Umm el-Karáyát was the focus andcentre of the southern mining region, even as the northernculminates in the Jebel el-Abyaz. Further experience rejected thetheory, and showed us half a dozen foci and centres in this truequartz-region. The main hill projects a small southern spur, alsobearing traces of the miner. The block of green trap to thesouth-west has a capping and a vein-network of quartz: here alsothe surface is artificially pitted. Moreover, there are detachedwhite-yellow pitons to the north-east, the east, and the south;whilst a promising hillock, bearing nearly due north, adjoins thegreat outcrop. All have rounded conical summits and smooth sides, proving that they are yet virgin; and here, perhaps, I shouldprefer to begin work. 

At our feet, and in north lat. 26° 13', lies the settlement, in ashort gravelly reach disposed north-west to south-east; and thebed is enclosed by a rim of trap and quartz hills. The ruins lieupon a fork where two gorges, running to the east and thenorth-east, both fall into the broad Wady el-Khaur, and thelatter feeds the great Wady el-Miyáh, the "Fiumara of theWaters, " of which more presently. The remains on the upper(eastern) branch-valley show where the rock was pulverized by thenumber of grinding implements, large and small, coarse and fine, all, save the most solid, broken to pieces by the mischievousBedawi. Some are of the normal basalt, which may also have servedfor crushing grain; others are cut out of grey and ruddygranites: a few are the common Mahrákah or "rub-stones, " and themany are handmills, of which we shall see admirable specimensfurther on. One was an upper stone, with holes for the handle andfor feeding the mill: these articles are rare. I also secured thesplit half of a ball, or rather an oblate spheroid, of serpentinewith depressions, probably where held by finger and thumb; thesame form is still used for grinding in the Istrian island ofVeglia. This is one of the few rude stone implements thatrewarded our careful search. 

The north-eastern, which is the main Wady, has a sole uneven withlow swells and falls. It was dry as summer dust: I had expectedmuch in the way of botanical collection, but the plants were notin flower, and the trees, stripped of their leaves, looked "blackas negroes out of holiday suits. " Here lie the principal ruins, forming a rude parallelogram from north-east to south-west. Theground plan shows the usual formless heaps of stones and pebbles, with the bases of squares and oblongs, regular and irregular, large and small. There were no signs of wells or aqueducts; andthe few furnaces were betrayed only by ashen heaps, thin scattersof scorić, and bits of flux--dark carbonate of lime. Here andthere mounds of the rosy micaceous schist, still unworked, lookedas if it had been washed out by the showers of ages. The generalappearance is that of an ergastulum like Umm Ámil: here perhapsthe ore was crushed and smelted, when not rich enough to be sentdown the Wady for water-working at the place where the inlandfort now is. 

The quarrymen, placed at the most likely spots, were ordered tospall rock for specimens: with their usual perversity, theypicked up, when unwatched, broken bits of useless stuff; theyspent the whole day dawdling over three camel-loads, and theyprotested against being obliged to carry the sacks to theirtents. Meanwhile Nájí, who had told marvellous tales concerning awell in the neighbouring hills, which showed the foundations ofhouses in its bowels, was directed to guide Lieutenant Amir. Heobjected that the enormous distance would be trying to thestoutest mule, and yet he did not blush when it was reached aftera mile's ride to the southwest (240° mag. ). It proved to be along-mouthed pit, sunk in the trap hill-slope some four fathomsdeep, but much filled up; and, so far from being built in, it hadnot even the usual wooden platform. Eastward of it, and at thehead of the Wady Shuwaytanah, "the Devilling, " lay a square ruinlike a small Mashghal of white quartz: here also were threestones scribbled with pious ejaculations, such as Yá Allah! andBismillah, in a modern Kufic character. 

Umm el-Karáyát, "the Mother of the Villages, " derives her title, according to the Baliyy, from the numerous offspring of minorsettlements scattered around her. We shall pass several on thenext day's march, and I am justified in setting down the numberat a dozen. The Wady el-Kibli, the southern valley, was visitedby Lieutenants Amir and Yusuf on April 8th, when we were encampedbelow it at Abá'l-Marú[EN#58]. After riding about six miles tothe north-north-west, down the Wady el-Mismáh and up the Wadyel-‘Argah, they reached, on the left bank of the latter, theruins known as Marú el-Khaur. The remains of the daughter arethose of the "mother. " There are two large heaps of quartz to thenorth and to the south-east of the irregular triangle, whoseblunted apex faces northwards: the south-eastern hill shows anirregular Fahr ("pit") in the reef of white stone, leading to anumber of little tunnels. 

I lost all patience with Wellsted, [EN#59] whose blundersconcerning the Umm el-Karáyát are really surprising, even for asailor on camel-back. He reaches the ruins after ten miles fromthe fort, when they lie between twelve and thirteen from El-Wijh. He calls the porphyritic trap "dark granite. " He makes the grandquartz formation "limestone, of which the materials used forconstructing the town (coralline!) appear to have been chieflyderived. " He descends the "caves" with ropes and lights; yet hedoes not perceive that they are mining shafts and tunnels, puitsd'air, adits for the workmen, and pits by which the ore was"brought to grass. " And the Hydrographic Chart is as bad. Itlocates the inland fort six miles and three-quarters from theanchorage, but the mine is thrust eastwards ten miles and aquarter from the fort; the latter distance being, as has beenseen, little more than the former. Moreover, the ruins are placedto the north, when they lie nearly on the same parallel oflatitude as El-Wijh. Ahmed Kaptán fixed them, by solarobservations, in north lat. 26° 13', so that we made only onemile of southing. It ignores the porphyritic sub-range in whichthe "Mother of the Villages" lies: and it brings close to theeast of it the tall peaks of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah' which, fromthis point, rise like azure shadows on the horizon. Finally, itcorrupts Umm el-Karáyát to Feyrabat. "Impossible, but true!"

The night at the ruins was dry and cool, even cold; disturbedonly by the coughing of the men, the moaning of the camels, andthe bleating of the sheep. We would willingly have spent hereanother day, but water and forage were absolutely wanting; andthe guides assured us that even greater marvels, in the shape ofruins and quartz-reefs, lay ahead. We set out shortly after fivea. M. (March 31st): the morning was pearly and rosy; but puffs ofa warmer wind announced the Dufún (local Khamsin), which promisedus three days of ugly working weather. Leaving Umm el-Karáyát bythe upper or eastern valley-fork, we soon fell into and descendedits absorbent, the broad (northern) Wady el-Khaur. Upon the rightbank of the latter rose the lesser "Mountain of Quartz, " a conewhite as snow, looking shadowy and ghostly in the petit jour, thedim light of morning. For the next two hours (= seven miles) wesaw on both sides nothing but veins and outcrops of "Marú, "worked as well as unworked. All was bare and barren as thegypsum: the hardy ‘Aushaz (Lycium), allied to the tea-tree, isthe only growth that takes root in humus-filled hollows of thestone. 

Presently the quartz made way for long lines and broad patches ofa yellow-white, heat-altered clay, often revetted with iron, andpassably aping the nobler rock: from one reef I picked up whatappeared to be trachyte, white like that of Shaghab. Thehill-casing of the valley forms no regular line; the heaps ofblack, red, and rusty trap are here detached and pyramidal, therecliffing as if in presence of the sea. The vegetation improved aswe advanced; the trees were no longer black and heat-blasted; andwe recognized once more the dandelion, the thistle, the senna, the Aristida grass, and other familiar growths. Tents, shepherds, and large flocks of goats and kids showed that water was notdistant; and, here in Baliyy-land, even the few young womenseemed to have no fear of the white face. 

After a slow, dull ride in the burning and sickly wind, wecrossed the head of our former route, Wady Zurayb the Ugly, andpresently entered the Wady el-Kubbah ("of the Cupola, "), whereour immediate destination rose before us. It is a grisly blacksaddleback, banded with two perpendicular stripes of dark stonethat shines like specular iron; and upon its tall northern end, the pommel, stands a small ruin, the oft spoken of "Dome. "Sketches of paths wind up the western flank; but upon this line, we were assured, no ruins are seen save a few pits. So we roundedthe block by the north, following the broad Wady to the Máyatel-Kubbah, water-pits in the sand whose produce had not beenlibelled when described as salt, scanty, and stinking. The trackthen turned up a short, broad branch-Wady, running from south tonorth, and falling into the left bank of the "Dome Valley:" a fewyards brought us to a halt at the ruins of El-Kubbah. We hadpushed on sharply during the last half of the way, and ourmorning's ride had lasted four hours (= thirteen miles). 

The remains lie in the uneven quartzose basin at the head of thelittle lateral watercourse: they are built with good cement, andthey evidently belong to the race that worked the "Mother of theVillages;" but there is nothing to distinguish them except theruins of a large Sákiyah ("draw-well"), with its basin ofweathered alabaster. We were perplexed by the shallow conicalpits in the porphyritic trap, to the east and west of the "DomeHill;" the ground is too porous for rain cisterns, and the depthis not sufficient for quarrying. The furnaces showed the normalslag; but the only "metals" lying around them were pooriron-clay, and a shining black porphyry, onyxed with the whitestquartz. There were, however, extensive scatters of Negro, whichhad evidently been brought there; and presently we found largeheaps of rosy-coloured, washed-out schist. [EN#60] These explainedthe raison d'ętre of this dreary and dismal hole. 

Meanwhile the juniors ascended the rocky "Kubbah" hill, whichproved to be a small matter of 120 feet (aner. 29. 34) above thevalley-sole (aner. 29. 46). The "Dome" was nothing but a truncatedcircle of wall, porphyry and cement, just large enough to hold aman; the cupola-roof, if there ever had been one, was clean gone;and adjoining it yawned a rock-cut pit some fifteen feet deep. Icame to the conclusion that here might have been a look-outwhere, possibly, the "bale-fire" was also lit. The"ascensionists" brought back a very healthy thirst. 

We rested till noon in the filmy shade of the thorn-trees. Thecaravan was at once sent forward to reach the only good water, lying, said the guides, many a mile beyond. We had made up ourminds for a good long march; and I was not a little vexed when, after half an hour, we were led out of the Wady el-Kubbah, whosehead, our proper line, lies to the north, into its easterninfluent, the Wady el-Dasnah. Here, after an afternoon "spell" offorty-five minutes (= two miles and a half), and a total of fourhours and forty-five minutes (= fifteen miles and a half), a daynearly half wasted, we found the tents pitched. The heat hadstrewed the Wady with soldiers and quarrymen; and the large pitin the bed, supplying "water sweet as the Nile, ', showed a swarmof struggling blacks, which the Egyptian officers compared withAráfít or "demons;" we with large pismires. A sentinel was placedto prevent waste and pollution at the Máyat el-Dasnah, whoseposition is in north lat. 26° 23'. 

April Fools' day was another that deserved to be marked with awhite stone. I aroused the camp at 3. 30 a. M. , in order that thecamels might load with abundance of water: we were to reach thesprings of Umm Gezáz, but a presentiment told me that we mightwant drink. At that hour the camp was a melancholy sight: theEuropeans surly because they had discussed a bottle of cognacwhen they should have slept; the good Sayyid without his coffee, and perhaps without his prayers; Wakíl Mohammed sorrowfullyattempting to gnaw tooth-breaking biscuit; and the Bedawinworking and walking like somnambules. However, at 5. 10 a. M. Westruck north, over a low divide of trap hill, by a broad andevidently made road, and regained the Wady el-Kubbah: here it isa pleasant spectacle rich in trees, and vocal with the cooing ofthe turtle-dove. After an hour's sharp riding we reached itshead, a fair round plain some two miles across, and rimmed withhills of red, green, and black plutonics, the latter muchresembling coal. It was a replica of the Sadr-basin below theHismá, even to the Khuraytah or "Pass" at the northern end. Here, however, the Col is a mere bogus; that is, no raised plateau liesbeyond it. 

We crossed a shallow prism and a feeding-basin: an ugly littlegorge then led to the important Wady Sirr. We are now in thehydrographic area of the Wady Nejd, [EN#61] which, numberinginfluents by the dozen, falls into the Salbah (Thalbah) of SharmDumaghah. The Sirr, though still far from its mouth, is at leastthree miles broad; and the guides speak of it as the Aslel-Balawíyyah, or "Old Home of the Baliyy. " The view from its bedis varied and extensive. Behind us lies the Tihámat-Balawíyyah, the equivalent of the Gháts of North Midian, from the Zahd to theShárr. The items are the little Jebel ‘Antar, which, peeping overthe Fiumara's high left bank, is continued south by the lowerLibn. The latter attaches to the higher Libn, whose triad ofpeaks, the central and highest built of three distinctcastellations, flush and blush with a delicate pink-white cheekas it receives the hot caresses of the sun. We are now haunted bythe Libn, which, like its big brother the Shárr, seems everywhereto accompany us. 

Beyond the neutral ground, over which we are travelling, appearin front the pale-blue heights bordering the Wady Nejd to thenorth-west, and apparently connected with the Jebelayn el-Jayy inthe far north (30° mag. ). To the north-east the view is closed bythe lumpy Jebel el-Kurr (the Qorh of Arabian geographers?);followed southwards by the peaked wall of the Jebel el-Ward, andby El-Safhah with its "Pins. " For the last eighteen miles we hadseen no quartz, which, however, might have veined theunderground-rock. The sole of the Sirr now appeared spread withsnow, streaked and patched with thin white paint; the stones weremostly water-rolled, the discharge of valleys draining from afar. The ground was unpleasantly pitted and holed; the camels wereweak with semi-starvation and the depressing south-wester;Lieutenant Amir put his dromedary to speed, resulting in anose-flattening fall; and the Sayyid nearly followed suit. 

This is our second day of Khamsin; yet on the northern slope ofthe great Fiumara we meet the cool land-wind. Either it or thesea-breeze generally sets in between seven and eight a. M. , whenthe stony, sandy world has been thoroughly sunned. The shortdivide beyond the far bank of the Sirr is strewn with glitteringmica-schist that takes the forms of tree-trunks and rotten wood;and with dark purple-blue fragments of clay-slate looking as ifthey had been worked. A counterslope of the same material, whichmakes excellent path-metal placed us in the Wady Rubayyigh ("theLittle Rábigh" or "Green-grown Spring"), a short andproportionally very broad branch draining to the Sirr. Here largeoutcrops of quartz mingled with the clay slate. A few yardsfurther it abutted upon a small gravelly basin with ruins and ahuge white reef of "Mará, " which caused a precipitatedismounting. We had marched only four hours (= thirteen miles);but the loss of time has its compensations. Our Arabs, whoconsider this a fair day's work, will now, in hopes of a halt, show us every strew of quartz and every fragment of wall. Theycongratulated us upon reaching a part of their country absolutelyunvisited by Europeans. 

The site of our discovery was the water-parting of the WadyRubayyigh with the Wady Rábigh, both feeders of the Sirr; this tothe north, that to the south. The ruins, known as Umm el-Haráb, "Mother of Desolation, " are the usual basement-lines: they lie inthe utterly waterless basin, our camping-ground, stretching westof Mará Rubayyigh, the big white reef. This "Mother" bears nearlynorth of Umm el-Karáyát, in north lat. 26° 33' 36" (AhmedKaptán): her altitude was made upwards of a thousand feet abovesea-level (aner. 28. 92)

At Umm el-Haráb we saw for the first time an open mine, scientifically worked by the men of old. They chose a pear-shapedquartz-reef; the upper dome exposed, the converging slopes setand hidden in green trap to the east and west, and the invisiblestalk extending downwards, probably deep into Earth's bowels. They began by sinking, as we see from certain rounded apertures, a line of shafts striking north-north-east (45°--50° mag. ) tosouth-south-west across the summit, which may measure one hundredand twenty yards. The intervening sections of the roof are nowbroken away; and a great yawning crevasse in the hill-top givesthis saddleback of bare cream-coloured rock, spangled with whitewhere recently fractured, the semblance of a "comb" or crestingreef. 

We descended into this chasm, whose slope varies from a maximumof 45° to a minimum of 36° at the south. The depth apparently didnot exceed thirty feet, making allowance for the filling up ofcenturies; but in places the hollow sound of the hammer suggestedprofounder pits and wells. I should greatly doubt that suchshallow sinking as this could have worked out any beyond theupper part of the vein. Here it measures from six to eight feetin diameter, diminishing to four and a half and even three below. The sloping roof has been defended from collapse by large pillarsof the rock, left standing as in the old Egyptian quarries; itshows the clumsy but efficient practice that preceded timbering. The material worked was evidently the pink-coloured andsilver-scaled micaceous schist; but there was also a whitishquartz, rich in geodes and veinlets of dark-brown and black dust. The only inhabitants of the cave, bats and lizards (Gongylusocellatus, L. , etc. ), did not prevent M. Lacaze making carefulstudy of the excavation; the necessity of brown shadows, however, robs the scene of its charm, the delicate white which stillshimmers under its transparent veil of shade. Similar featuresexist at El-Muwaylah and El-Aujah, in the wilderness of Kadesh:but those are latomić; these are gold mines. [EN#62]

Another sign of superior labour is shown by the quartz-crushingimplements. Here they are of three kinds: coarse and roughbasaltic lava for the first and rudest work; red granite andsyenitic granite for the next stage; and, lastly, an admirablehandmill of the compactest grey granite, smooth as glass and hardas iron. Around the pin-hole are raised and depressed concentriccircles intended for ornament; and the "dishing" towards the rimis regular as if turned by machinery. We have seen as yet nothinglike this work; nor shall we see anything superior to it. All arenether millstones, so carefully smashed that one can hardly helpsuspecting the kind of superstitious feeling which suggestediconoclasm. The venerable Shaykh ‘Afnán showed a touchingignorance concerning the labours of the ancients; and, whenlectured about the Nabat (Nabathćans), only exclaimed, "Allah, Allah!"

In the evening we ascended the porphyry hills to the north of thelittle camping-basin; and we found the heights striped by twolarge vertical bands of quartz. The eastern vein, like the Jebelel-Marú, has a north-east to south-west strike (45° mag. ); thewestern runs east-west with a dip to south. From the summit wecould see that the quartz-mountain, as usual an exaggerated vein, is hemmed in on both sides by outcrops and hills of trap, black, green, and yellow, which culminate eastward in the Jebel el-Guráb(Juráb). We had a fine bird's-eye view of the Wady Rábigh, and ofour next day's march towards the Shafah Mountains: the former waswhite with quartz as if hail-strewn. Far beyond its right bankrose an Ash'hab, or "grey head, " which seemed to promisequartzose granite: it will prove an important feature. Beforesleeping, I despatched to El-Wijh two boxes of micaceous schistand two bags of quartz, loads for a pair of camels. 

 Chapter XVII. The March Continued to El-Badá–Description of the Plain Badais. 

After the exciting scenes of the last three days, this stage wasdull riding, and consequently, I fear, it will be dull reading aswell as writing. We set off afoot betimes (5. 10 a. M. ) in thestill warm morning that augured Khamsín: the third day was nowtelling heavily on man and beast. A walk of ten minutes led downthe rough line of the little water-course draining the MarúRubayyigh to the Wady Rábigh. At a re-entering angle of thejunction, a shallow pit was sunk; the sand became moist and red, and presently it was underlaid by a rubble of porphyritic trap. Nothing more!

We then crossed the Wady Rábigh, another of the short broadvalleys which distinguish this section of South Midian. The bedsides, especially the right, are heaps and mounds of snowyquartz, with glittering crowns of block and boulder: all prove tobe veins in the grey granite, whose large coarse elements aredecomposed by weather. The dark and rusty walls of the valleyalso discharge the white stone in shunts and shoots: here andthere they might be mistaken for Goz ("sand-banks") heaped up bythe wind, except that these are clad in thin vegetation, whereasthe "Maru'" is mostly mother-naked. We halted here for rest andto examine these features: despite the Khamsín, the Great Gasterbecame querulous; hunger was now the chief complaint, and eventhe bon ordinaire had lost much of its attraction. A harmlesssnake was killed and bottled; its silver robe was beautifullybanded with a line, pink as the circles of the "cobra coral, "which ran along the whole length of the back. It proved to be anew species; and Dr. Gunther named it Zamenis elegantissimus. 

Beyond the Rábigh, we ascended a lateral valley, whence a lowdivide led to the Wady el-Bahrah ("of the Basin"), another feederof the Sirr. It was also snow-white, and on the right of the pathlay black heaps, Hawáwít, "ruins" not worth the delay of a visit. Then began a short up-slope with a longer counterslope, on whichwe met a party of Huwaytát, camel-men and foot-men going to buygrain at El-Wigh. Another apparition was a spear-man bestriding abare-backed colt; after reconnoitering us for some time, heyielded to the temptations of curiosity. It afterwards struck usthat, mounted on our mules, preceded and followed by the Shaykhsriding their dromedaries, we must have looked mighty like a partyof prisoners being marched inland. The horseman was followed by arough-coated, bear-eared hound of the kind described byWellsted[EN#63] as "resembling the English mastiff"--he did notknow how common is the beast further north. The Kalb gasúr(jasur) or "bold dog, " also called Kalb el-hámi, or "the hot"(tempered), is found even amongst the Bedawin to the east of theSuez Canal; but there the half-bred is more common than thewhole-blood. It is trained to tend the flocks; it never barks, nor bites its charges; and it is said to work as well as theshepherd-dog of Europe. 

The Wady Mulaybij shows fine specimens of mica dorí in thequartz-vein streaking the slate: it deceived all the caravan, save those who tested it with their daggers. The bed, afterforming a basin, narrows to a sandy gut, smooth and pleasantriding; and, after crossing several valley-heads, the pathdebouches upon the Wady Abál-Gezaz. This "Father of Glass, "though a day and a half's march from the sea, is even broaderthan the great Sirr to which it is tributary. Its line, whichreminded us of the Dámah, is well marked by unusually finevegetation: and the basin bears large clumps of fan-palm, scattered Daum-trees, the giant asclepiad El-‘Ushr, [EN#64]thickets of tamarisk and scatters of the wild castor-plant, whoseuse is unknown to the Arabs. Water wells up abundantly from adozen shallow pits, old and new, in the sand of the southern orleft bank. Here the flow is apparently arrested by a tallbuttress of coarse granite, red with orthose, and sliced by atrap-dyke striking north-south. 

Our day's work had been only four slow hours; but we werecompelled to await the caravan, which did not arrive till afternoon. It had passed round by the Wady Rábigh, into and up the"Father of Glass;" in fact, it had described an easy semicircle;while we had ridden in a series of zigzags, over rough anddifficult short cuts. A delay was also necessary for our mappersto connect this march with their itinerary of the central region. Already the Wady Mulaybij had shown us the familiar peak anddorsum of Jebel Raydán; and we had "chaffed" Furayj about hissudden return home. From our camp in the Abá'l-Gezáz, the Ziglábblock of Shaghab bore nearly north (350° mag. ); and the adjoiningJebel el-Aslah, also a blue cone on the horizon, rose about twodegrees further north. 

After the big mess-tent had been duly blown down, and the usualdiscipline had been administered for washing in thedrinking-pool; we crossed to the left of the Wady by way of anevening stroll, and at once came upon an atelier of someimportance. The guides seemed to ignore its existence, so wechristened it Mashghal Alá'l-Gezáz. On the slope of a trap-hillfacing the Wady el-Ghami's, the southern valley which we had lastcrossed, stood a square of masonry scattered round with fragmentsof pottery, glass, and basalt. Below it, on the "mesopotamian"plain, lay the foundations of houses still showing their cementedfloors. The lowlands and highlands around the settlement lookedwhite-patched with mounds, veins, and scatters of quartz. Theevening was stillness itself, broken only by the cries of theKatás, which are now nesting, as they flocked to drink; and thenight was cool--a promise, and a false promise, that the Khamsínhad ended on its usual third day. 

The next morning (April 3rd) showed us El-Bada', the whole marchlying up the Wady Abá'l-Gezáz, which changes its name with everywater. The early air was delightfully fresh and brisk, and thecattle stepped out as if walking were a pleasure: yet the Arabsdeclared that neither camels nor mules had found a full feed inthe apparently luxuriant vegetation of the Fiumara-bed. The tractbegan badly over loose sandy soil, so honeycombed that neitherman nor beast could tread safely: the Girdi (Jirdi), or "fieldrat, " is evidently nocturnal like the jerboa, during the wholejourney we never saw a specimen of either. A yellow wolf wasdescried skulking among the bushes, and a fine large hare wasshot; porcupine-quills were common, and we picked up the mummy ofa little hedgehog. The birds were swift-winged hawks and owls, pigeons and ring-doves; crows again became common, and thewater-wagtail was tame as the Brazilian thrush, Joăo de Barros:it hopped about within a few feet of us, quite ignoring thepresence of Frenchmen armed with murderous guns. I cannot discernthe origin of the pseudo-Oriental legend which declares that the"crow of the wilderness" (raven) taught Cain to bury his brotherby slaying a brother crow, and scraping a grave for it with beakand claw. The murderous bird then perched upon a palm-tree, whosebranches, before erect, have ever drooped, and croaked the truthinto Adam's ear: hence it has ever been of evil augury tomankind. The hoopoe, which the French absurdly call coq demontagne, also trotted by the path-side without timidity; and thebutcher-bird impudently reviewed the caravan from itsvantage-ground, a commanding tree. The large swift shot screamingoverhead; and the cries of the troops of Merops, withsilver-lined wings, resembled those of the sand-grouse. 

After some five miles the "Father of Glass" changed his name toAbú Daumah (of the "one Theban Palm"). Porphyritic trap lay onboth sides of us. To the right rose the Jebel ‘Ukbal, whose greyform (El-Ash'hab) we had seen from the heights above Ummel-Haráb: the whole range of four heads, forming thesouth-western rim of the Badá saucer, is known as El-‘Akábil. Below these blocks the Wady-sides were cut into buttresses ofyellow clay, powdered white with Sabkh, or "impure salt. " Charredcirclets in the sand showed where alkali had been burned: theashes, packed in skins, are shipped at El-Wijh for Syria, wherethey serve to make soap. The Bedawin call it Aslah (Athlah); theEgyptians Ghassálah ("the washer"), because, when rubbed in thehands, its succulent shoots clean the skin. Camels eat it, whereas mules refuse it, unless half-starved. This plantapparently did not extend all up the Wady. The water, where thereis any, swings under the left bank; an ample supply had beenpromised to us, with the implied condition that we should camp atthis Mahattat el-‘Urbán ("Halting place of the Arabs"), after amarching day of two hours! Seeing that we rode on, the Baliyydeclared that they had searched for the two principal pools, andthat both were dry, or rather had been buried by the Bedawin. But, with characteristic futility, they had allowed me tooverhear their conversation; and the word was passed to thesoldiers, who at once filled themselves and their water-skins. 

Hitherto we had been marching south of east. Presently, where thepretty green Wady el-Surám falls into the left bank, we turned acorner, and sighted in front, or to the north, the great plain ofBadá. The block, El-‘Akábil, had projected a loop of some tenmiles to be rounded, whereas a short cut across it would not haveexceeded three. And now the Wady Abá Daumah abruptly changedformation. The red and green traps of the right side made way forgrey granite, known by its rounded bulging blocks on the sidesand summit, by its false stratification, by its veins of quartzthat strewed the sand, and by its quaint weathering--one rockexactly resembled a sitting eagle; a second was a turtle, and athird showed a sphinx in the rough. The Badá plain is backed by acurtain so tall that we seemed, by a common optical delusion, tobe descending when we were really ascending rapidly. 

Anxiety to begin our studies of the spot made the ride across thebasin, soled with rises comfortably metalled, and with falls ofsand unpleasantly loose and honeycombed, appear very long. Thepalm-clump, where men camp, with its two date-trees towering overthe rest, receded as it were. At last, after a total of fourhours and forty-five minutes (= sixteen miles), we dismounted atthe celebrated groves, just before the ugly Khamsín arose andmade the world look dull, as though all its colours had beenwashed out. 

The dates form a kind of square with a sharp triangle to thesouth, upon the left bank of the thalweg, which overflows themduring floods. The enceinte is the normal Arab "snake-fence" ofdry and barked branches, which imperfectly defends the nurseriesof young trees and the plots of Khubbayzah ("edible mallows")from the adjoining camping-place of bald yellow clay. The wells, inside and outside the enclosure, are nine; three stone-revetted, and the rest mere pits in the inchoate modern sandstone. Thetrees want thinning; the undergrowth is so dense as to beimpenetrable; but the heads are all carefully trimmed, the firsttime we have seen such industry in Midian. The shade attractsvipers, chiefly the Echis: and I was startled by hearing the gaywarble of the Bulbul--a nightingale in Arabia!

The next day was devoted to inspecting this far-famed site, withthe following results. We have already seen a Bada' anda Badí'a, whilst there is a Badí'ah [EN#65]further north. We are now at a Badá which fulfils allthe conditions required by the centre and head-quarters of"Thamuditis. " The site of the Bújat Badá, "the Wide Plain ofBadá, " as it is distinguished by the Arabs, represents, topographically speaking, a bulge in the Wady Nejd, before itbecomes the Wady Abú Daumah, between the Shafah Mountains to theeast and the Tihámah range seawards. The latitude is 26° 45' 30"= 0° 31' 30" north of El-Wijh [Footnote: Ahmed Kaptán'sobservation of Polaris. The (Bades) of Ptolemy isin north lat. 25° 30'. ]. From its centre, a little south of ourcamping-place, the Jebel Zigláb of Shaghab, distant, according toYákút, one march, bears 32°, and the Aslah (Athlah) cone 30°(both mag. ): it lies therefore south of Shuwák, with a littlewesting. The altitude is upwards of twelve hundred feet abovesea-level (aner. 28. 72). The size of the oval is about ninestatute miles from north to south, where the main watercoursebreaks; and twelve miles from east to west, giving an area ofsome 108 square miles. The general aspect of the basin suggeststhat of El-Haurá; the growth is richer than the northern, but notequal to that of the southern country. The ruins belong to theMagháir Shu'ayb category, and the guides compare the Hawáwít withthose of Madáin Sálih. 

Such is the great station on the Nabathćan overland highwaybetween Leukč' Kóme and Petra; the commercial and industrial, the agricultural and mineral centre, which the Greeks called the Romans, Badanatha (Pliny, vi. 32); and themedićval Arab geographers, Badá Ya'kúb, in the days when theHajj-caravan used to descend the Wadys Nejd and the "Father ofGlass. " Now it is simply El-Badá: the name of the "Prophet"Jacob, supposed to have visited it from Egypt or Syria, beingclean forgotten. 

The rolling plain is floored with grey granite, underlyingsandstones not unlike coral-rag, and still in course offormation. Through this crust outcrop curious hillocks, or ratherpiles of hard, red, and iron-revetted rock, with a white or arusty fracture--these are the characteristics of the basin. Thelower levels are furrowed with their threads of sand, beds ofrain-torrents discharged from the mountains; and each is edged bybrighter growths of thorn and fan-palm. The fattening Salíb grassis scattered about the water; the large sorrel hugs theFiumara-sides; the hardy ‘Aushaz-thorn (Lycium), spangled withwhite bloom and red currants, which the Arabs say taste likegrapes, affects the drier levels; and Tanzubs, almost all timberwhen old, become trees as large as the Jujube. 

The Bújat is everywhere set in a regular rim of mountains. TheShafah curtain to the north is fretted with a number of peaks, called as usual after their Wadys;[EN#66] the west is open with agreat slope, the Wady Manab, whose breadth is broken only by the"Magráh" Naza'án, a remarkable saddleback with reclining cantle. It is distant a ride of two hours, and we have now seen it forthree marches. A little south of east yawns the gorge-mouth ofthe Wady Nejd, the upper course of the Abá'l-Gezáz: a jaggedblack curtain, the Jebel Dausal, forms its southern jaw. Furthersouth the Tihámah Mountains begin with the peaky Jebel el-Kurr, another remarkable block which has long been in sight. Itsneighbour is the bluff-headed Jebel el-Wásil of Marwát; whilstthe trap-blocks, already mentioned as the Jibál el-‘Akábil, finish the circle. 

The better to understand the shape of the ruins, we will ascendthe irregular block which rises a few furlongs to the north-eastof the palm-orchard. It has only three names: ‘Araygat Badá("Veinlet of Badá"); Zeba'yat Badá, "the Low-lying (Hill) ofBadá;" and Shahíb el-Búm, "the Ash-coloured (Hill) of the Owl. " Iwill prefer the latter, as we actually sighted one of those dearbirds on its western flank. It is an outcrop of grey granite, pigeon-holed by weather, and veined by a variety of dykes. Herewe find greenstone breccia'd with the blackest hornblende; therehuge filons of hard, red, heat-altered clays, faced with iron, whilst the fracture is white as trachyte; and there filets ofquartz, traversing large curtains and sheets of light-colouredargils. This was evidently the main quarry: the sides still showsigns of made zigzags; and the red blocks and boulders, all roundthe hill, bear the prayers and pious ejaculations of theFaithful. The characters range between square Kufic, hardlyantedating four centuries, and the cursive form of our day. Someare merely scraped; others are deeply and laboriously cut in thehard material, a work more appropriate for the miner than for thepassing pilgrim. 

From the ruined look-out on the summit the shape of the cityshows a highly irregular triangle of nine facets, forming an apexat the east end of our "Owl's Hill:" the rises and falls of theground have evidently determined the outline. The palm-orchard, whose total circumference is five hundred and thirty-six metres, occupies a small portion of its south-eastern corner; and ourcamping-place, further east, was evidently included in theancient enceinte. The emplacement, extending along the easternbank of the main watercourse, is marked by a number of moundsscattered over with broken glass and pottery of all kinds: nocoins were found, but rude bits of metal, all verdigris, werepicked up north of the palm-orchard. Here, too, lay queerfish-bones, with tusks and teeth, chiefly the jaws of Scaridć andSparidć (seabreams). [EN#67]

Descending the Shahíb el-Búm, and passing a smaller black andwhite block appended to its south-south-western side, we nowcross to the left bank of the main drain. Here lies the brokentank, the normal construction of El-Islam's flourishing days. Itis a square of thirty-two metres, whose faces and angles do notfront the cardinal points. At each corner a flight of steps hasbeen; two have almost disappeared, and the others are very shaky. The floor, originally stone-paved, is now a sheet of hard silt, growing trees and bush: dense Tanzub-clumps (Sodada decidua), with edible red berries, sheltering a couple of birds'-nests, suggested a comparison between the present and the past. At theeast end is the Makhzan el-Máyah, or "smaller reservoir, " anoblong of 7. 80 by 6. 60 metres: the waggon-tilt roof hasdisappeared, and the fissures show brick within the ashlar. Alongthe eastern side are huge standing slabs of the coarse newsandstone with which the tank is lined: these may be remains of aconduit. Around the cistern lies a ruined graveyard, whoseyawning graves supplied a couple of skulls. A broken line ofmasonry, probably an aqueduct, runs south-south-east (143° mag. )towards the palms: after two hundred metres all traces of it arelost. 

The mining industry could not have been a prominent feature atBadá, or we should have found, as in Shaghab and Shuwák, furnacesand scorić. Yet about the tank we lit upon large scatters ofspalled quartz, which, according to the Baliyy, is brought fromthe neighbouring mountains. Some of it was rosy outside: otherspecimens bore stains of copper; and others showed, when broken, little pyramids of ore. Tested in England, it proved to be purelead, a metal so rare that some metallurgists have doubted itsexistence: the finds have been mostly confined to auriferouslands. The blow-pipe soon showed that it was not galena (thesulphide), but some of it contained traces of silver. Withoutknowing the rarity of these specimens, certain American officersat the Citadel, Cairo, compared them with the true galenas of theDár-Forian mines, called Mahattat el-Risás (the "Deposit ofLead"), in the Wady Gotam, three days north-east of the capitalEl-Fashr. The African metal is rich. Large quantities, analyzedby Gastinel Bey, gave fifty per cent. Of lead, and of silverfifty dollars per ton; but the distance from any possible marketwill reserve these diggings for the use of the future. Some weresanguine enough to propose smelting the metal at Khartúm, whereRisás is ever in demand; and accordingly, for a time Dar-For was"run, " by a mild "ring, " against Midian. 

The plain, I have said, is everywhere broken by piles of stoneforming knobby hills. Leaving the outlined sphinx to the right, we ascended a second block, which rises on the west of the chiefwatercourse, further down than the "Owl's Hill. " This Tellel-Ahmar ("Red Hill"), alias Ja'dat Badá (the "Curved Hill ofBada'"), is a quoin of grey granite bluff to the south-west. Thenorth-eastern flank shows the normal revetment of ruddy and blackheat-altered grit, which gives a red back to the pale-sided, drab-coloured heap. Over the easy ascent is run a zigzag path;half-way, up it passes piles of stone that denote building, andit abuts at the summit upon one of those "look-outs" which areessentially Arab. 

Again, to the south-east of the palms is the Huzaybat Badá, the"(Isolated) Hillock of Badá, " a low ridge of naked grey granite, much scaled and pigeon-holed. On the plain to its north stretchregular lines of stone, probably the remnants of a work intendedto defend the city's eastern approach. South of the Huzaybahappear the usual signs of an atelier: these workshops aredoubtless scattered all around the centre; but a week, not a day, would be required to examine them. On the very eve of ourdeparture the guides pointed northwards (350° mag. ) to a"Mountain of Marú, " called El-Arayfát, and declared that itcontained a Zaríbat el-Nasárá, or "enclosure made by theNazarenes. " I offered a liberal present for specimens; all, however, swore that the distance ranged from two to three hoursof dromedary, and that no mounted messenger could catch us unlesswe halted the next day. 

The Bedawin, still relegated to the upper country, were sendingtheir scouts to ascertain if the water-supply was sufficient inBadá plain. The adjacent valleys were dotted with she-camels andtheir colts. The adult animal here sells for twelve to thirtydollars. During the cotton-full in Egypt, and the cotton-famineof the United States, they fetched as many pounds sterling at thefrontier; and the traders of El-Wijh own to having made twohundred per cent. , which we may safely double. I asked them whythey did not import good stallions from the banks of the Nile;and the reply was that of the North Country--the experiment hadended in the death of the more civilized brutes. This is easilyunderstood: the Baliyy camel seems to live on sand. 

The camp was visited by a few Bedawi stragglers, and the reportsof their immense numbers were simply absurd. The males were notto be distinguished, in costume and weapons, from theirneighbours; and the "females" were all dark and dressed inamorphous blue shirts. At last came an old man and woman of theHuwaytát tribe, bringing for sale a quantity of liquefied butter. They asked a price which would have been dear on the seaboard;and naively confessed that they had taken us for pilgrims, --birdsto be plucked. But sheep and goats were not to be found in theneighbourhood: yesterday we had failed to buy meat; and to-daythe young Shaykh, Sulaymán, was compelled to mount his dromedaryand ride afar in quest of it. The results were seven small sheep, which, lean with walking, cost eleven dollars; and all wereslaughtered before they had time to put on fat. 

During our stay a pitiable object, with a hide- bandaged lowerleg, often limped past the tents; and, thinking the limb broken, I asked the history of the accident. Our hero, it appears, was adoughty personage, famed for valour, who had lately slipped intothe Juhayni country with the laudable intention of "lifting" acamel. He had, indeed, "taken his sword, and went his way to roband steal, " under the profound conviction that nothing could bemore honourable--in case of success. He was driving off thebooty, when its master sallied out to recover the stolen goods byforce and by arms. Both bared their blades and exchanged cuts, when the Baliyy found that his old flamberge was too blunt to dodamage. Consequently he had the worse of the affair; a slicing ofthe right hand forced him to drop his "silly sword. " He thenclosed with his adversary, who again proved himself the betterman, throwing the assailant, and at the same time slashing openhis left leg. The wounded man lay in the "bush" till he gatheredstrength to "dot and go one" homewards. Amongst these tribes theDiyat, or "blood-money, " reaches eight hundred dollars;consequently men will maim, but carefully avoid killing, oneanother. 

The evening of our halt, with its lurid haze and its ominousbrooding stillness, was distinguished by a storm, a regular Arabaffair, consisting of dust by the ton to water by the drop. Thisinfliction of the "fearful fiend, Samiel, fatal to caravans, "began in the west. A cloud of red sand advanced like aprairie-fire at headlong speed before the mighty rushing wind, whose damp breath smelt of rain; and presently the mountain-rimwas veiled in brown and ruddy and purple earth-haze. A bow in theeastern sky strongly suggested, in the apparent absence of ashower, refraction by dust--if such thing be possible. We weredisappointed, by the sinister wind, in our hopes of collecting abottle of rain-water for the photographer; nor did the storm, though it had all the diffused violence of a wintry gale, materially alter the weather. The next two nights were brisk andcool, but the afternoons blew either the Khamsín ("south-wester")or the Azyab ("south-easter"). 

The only Bedawi tradition concerning the Bada' plain is thefollowing. Many centuries ago, some say before the Apostle, theBaliyy held the land, which was a valley of gardens, a foretasteof Irem; the people were happy as the martyrs of Paradise, andthe date-trees numbered two thousand. The grove then belonged toa certain Ibn Mukarrib, who dwelt in it with his son and a slave, not caring to maintain a large guard of Arabs. Consequently hebecame on bad terms with the Ahámidah-Baliyy tribe, who begansystematically to rob his orchard. At last one of a largeplundering party said to him, "O Ibn Mukarrib! wilt thou sellthis place of two thousand (trees), and not retreat (from thybargain)?" He responded "Buy!" (i. E. Make an offer). The other, taking off his sandal, exclaimed. "With this!" and theproprietor, in wrath, rejoined, "I have sold!"

Ibn Mukarrib then arose and went forth, with his son and theslave, to the place whence came the water (that fed the palms):this he closed up, and fared towards the north. One day it sohappened that the three were sitting under the shade of aMarakh-tree and eating its berries. Quoth the sire to the son, "Say, which is the sweeter, the eating of the Marakh fruit or thedates of our orchard?" And the youth rejoined, "O my father! farsweeter is the eating of the fruit of our palm-yard;" when hissire at once arose and slew him with the sword (to wipe away thedisgrace of such want of manliness). 

Then Ibn Mukarrib turned to the slave, and asked him the questionwhich he had asked of his son. Whereupon the slave replied inthis quatrain:

 "Eating wild grain in the house of respect; And not eating dates in the house of contempt: And walking in honour but a single day; And not sitting in disgrace for a thousand years!"

Ibn Mukarrib, pleased with these words, forthwith adopted theslave; both marched to the north and dwelt there till the end oftheir days. The palm-trees, deprived of irrigation, all died; andBújat-Badá, the beautiful, became a wilderness. About twentyyears ago, the wells were reopened and the dates were replanted. So much for the past: as for the future, we may safely predictthat, unless occupied by a civilized people, the Badá plain willagain see worse times. Nothing would be easier than to rebuildthe town, and to prepare the basin for irrigation andcultivation; but destruction is more in the Bedawi line. 

 Chapter XVIII. Coal a "Myth"--March to Marwát--Arrival at the Wady Hamz. 

Before leaving Badá I was careful to make all manner of inquiriesconcerning stone-coal; and the guides confirmed the suspicionswhich had long suggested themselves. His Highness the Viceroy hadlaid great stress upon the search: the first question to me onreturn was whether the fuel had been found; and a shade ofdisappointment appeared when the answer distinctly declared it amyth. 

This coal, it appears, is an old story. My learned friendSprenger wrote to me (June 13, 1877): "It is likely that west ofMarwa, on the way to Hawrá (which lies on the sea-shore), coal isfound: I confess that the prospect of discovering much coal inArabia does not appear to me very great; still it would be worthwhile to make inquiries. " Subsequently (December 8, 1877), hegave up all hopes of the pure mineral, but he still clave tobituminous schist. El-Mukaddasi (p. 103), [EN#68] treating of themarvels of the land, has the following passage unconnected withthose which precede and succeed it:--"A fire arose betweenEl-Marwat and El-Haurá, and it burned, even as charcoal (el-Fahm)burns. " Probably Sprenger had read, "and it (the stone) burned ascharcoal burns, " suggesting that the houses and huts were builtof inflammable material, like the bituminous schist of theBrazil; and that the Arabs were surprised to find them takingfire. Evidently, however, the text refers to an eruption in oneof the many Harrahs or volcanic districts. El-Mukaddasi describesthe "houses artful (farihín, alluding to the Thamúdites in theKoran, xxvi. 149), and made of admirable stone (alabaster?); overthe doors were knots (‘Ukúd), and ornaments (Turúh), and carvings(Nukúsh). "

Landing at El-Wijh, I at once consulted our intelligent friend, the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah. He had sent for a camel-load of thestuff, which, he declared, would not burn, although it had burnedhis money. He then travelled in person to the Jebel el-Muharrak("Burnt Mountain"), five short marches inland from El-Badá plain, and behind its northern curtain, the Jibál el-Shafah. Accordingto him, El-Muharrak is part of the great Harrah; and theunexplored Jaww, which lies north (?) of it, is a prolongation ofthe Hismá plateau, here belonging to the Balawíyyah orBaliyy-land. The mountain is tall and black, apparentlyconsisting of the "coal. " Near its summit lies the Bir el-Shifá'("Well of Healing"), a pit of cold sulphur-water, excellent forthe eyes; and generally a "Pool of Bethesda, " whither Arabs flockfrom afar. At Abá'l-Gezáz, Mohammed destroyed all our survivinghopes by picking up a black stone which, he declared, belonged toEl-Muharrak. It was schist, with a natural fracture not unlikecoal, and weathered into the semblance of wood: unfortunately itwas hard as iron, and it did not contain an atom of bitumen. 

At Badá old Shaykh ‘Afnán, whose tents are now pitched one dayahead of us, was taken into consultation upon the subject. Heconfirmed these statements of the Wakíl, adding that the ShafahMountains are a mere ridge, not the seaward walls of a plateau, and that the land east of them is exactly that which we havealready traversed. He had bathed in the sulphur-water; he spokeof brimstone being picked up on the hill-flanks, and he had heardof El-Kohl (stibium, collyrium, antimony) being found aboutEl-Muharrak. [EN#69]

These details, apparently authentic, did not tempt me to wasteprecious time upon El-Muharrak. I do not yet despair, as has beensaid, of finding coal in Arabia; but we must hardly expectvolcanic ground to yield it. 

Our preparations for a march southwards were made underdifficulties. The Baliyy evidently like the prospect of some Ł6per diem; and do not like the idea of approaching the frontier, where their camels may be stolen. Every silly, childish pretextwas used to suggest delay. We ought not to move without seeingthe "Nazarenes' Ruin" at El-‘Arayfát. Again, I had sent a certainSalim, a cousin of the Shaykh, with orders for fresh suppliesfrom El-Wijh: he was certain to miss us if we marched. Stillagain, old ‘Afnán's dromedary had a thorn in the foot--u. S. W. 

Nevertheless, an order was given for the return march on April5th. 

No matter how philosophical the traveller may be, I defy him notto feel some emotion when, his Desert work being duly done, hethrows his leg over the saddle, and turn the animal's headhomewards--towards London. Such was our pleasant predicament;for, though the détour would be considerable, and the delay stillmore so, I could distinguish the bourne at the far end of thevery long perspective. 

We were now in excellent marching order, not, however, includingthe mules, of which two had broken down with sore backs, and theothers were breaking fast. The réveillé sounded at 3 to 3. 30p. M. ; the "general" followed at four; and the start took placeimmediately afterwards. The camels are wretched animals, thatwork equally badly full and fasting: when hungry, they breaktheir halters to graze along the path; and when gorged they aretoo lazy to go beyond a saunter of two miles an hour. Yet theycan work well when pushed: the man Sa'lim came up with us on theevening of the fourth day, after a forced march of thirty-twohours. 

We took the track which crosses the Bújat-Badá to the south-east. For a short way it was vilely rat-eaten; presently it issued upongood, hard, stony ground; and, after four miles, it entered theWady el-Marwát. This gorge, marked by the Jebel Wásil, a roundhead to the north, is a commonplace affair of trap and whiteclay; broad, rough, and unpicturesque. The sole shows many pilesof dry stone, ruins of "boxes, " in which the travelling Arabpasses the night, whilst his camels are tethered outside. Thewatercourse heads in a Khuraytah, the usual rock-ladder; wereached it after eleven miles' riding. Nájí, the sea-lawyer ofthe party, assured us that we had not finished a third of theway, when two-thirds would have been nearer the truth. 

The Wady sides and head showed traces of hard work, especiallywhere three veins of snowy quartz had been deeply cut into. Thesummit of the Col, some 2100 feet above sea-level, carried a finereef of "Marú, " measuring eight feet at the widest, and trending332° (mag. ) Around it lay the usual barbarous ruins, merebasements, surrounded by spalled stone: from this place I carriedoff a portable Kufic inscription. The view down the regular andtree-dotted slope of the Wady el-Marwát, as far as the flats ofBadá, was charming, an Argelčz without its over-verdure. 

From the Col two roads lead to our day's destination. The shortcut to the right was reported stony: as most of our mules werecasting their irons and falling lame, I avoided it by the adviceof Furayj, thereby giving huge offence to old ‘Afnán. We followedthe long slope trending to the Wady el-Kurr, which drains thenotable block of that name. Seeing the Wakíl, and the others infront, cutting over the root to prevent rounding a prodigiouslylong tongue-tip, I was on the qui vive for the normal dodge; andpresently the mulatto Abdullah screamed out that the Nakb must beavoided, as it was all rock. We persisted and found the pathalmost as smooth as a main road. The object was to halt for thenight at a neighbouring water-hole in the rocks; and, when theirtrick failed, the Baliyy with a naive infantine candour, talkedand laughed over their failure, sans vergogne and within earshot. 

Despite the many Zawábahs ("dust-devils"), this was one of ourfinest travelling days. After the usual ante-meridian halt, wepushed on down the valley, meeting only a few donkey-drivers. At2. 15 p. M. (seven hours = twenty miles and a half), we reached thebeautiful ‘Ayn el-Kurr, some ten direct miles east of the WadyRábigh; and the caravan was only one hour behind us. This Wady isa great and important affluent of the Wady el-Miyáh alreadymentioned. The reach where we camped runs from north to south;and the "gate" of porphyritic trap, red, green, yellow, and whitewith clay, almost envelops the quartz-streaked granite. The wallsare high enough to give shade between eight a. M. And 2. 15 p. M. ;and the level sole of the cleanest sand is dotted, near the rightside, with holes and pools of the sweetest water. Here "greengrow the rushes, " especially the big-headed Kasbá (Arundo donax);the yellow-tipped Namas or flags (Scirpus holoschćnus) form adense thicket; the ‘Ushr, with its cork-like bark which makes thebest tinder, is a tree, not a shrub; and there are large naturalplantations of the saffron-flowered, tobacco-like Verbascum, theArab's Uzn el-Humár ("Donkey's Ear"). Add scattered clusters ofdate-trees, domineering over clumps of fan-palm; and, lastly, marvellous to relate, a few hundred feet of greensward, ofregular turf--a luxury not expected in North-Western Arabia--aparadise for frogs and toads (Bufo vulgaris), grasshoppers, andwhite pigeons; and you will sympathize with our enjoyment at the‘Ayn el-Kurr. In such a place extensive ruins of the "Old Ones"were to be expected. Apparently there is no trace of man beyondWasm on the rocks; a few old Bedawi graves in a dwarf Wadyinflowing from the west; a rude modern watercourse close aboveits mouth, and Arab fences round the trimmed dates and newly setpalm shoots. 

During the afternoon the Shaykhs came to us with very long faces. At this season, and as long as the Baliyy are in the Shafahuplands, the almost deserted frontier districts, which we areabout to enter, suffer from the Gaum, or razzia, of theneighbouring ‘Anezah and the Juhaynah;--the two tribes, however, not mixing. The bandits, numbering, they say, from fifty tosixty, mounted on horses and dromedaries, only aspire to plundersome poor devil-shepherd of a few camels, goats, and muttons. They never attack in rear; they always sleep at night, save whenevery moment is precious for "loot"-driving; and their weapons, which may be deadly in the narrows, are despicable in the opencountry. 

I suspected at first that this was another "dodge" to enhance theservices of our Arabs, but the amount of risk we were to run wassoon found out by consulting Furayj. He said that we must marchin rear of the caravan for a day or two; and that such attackswere possible, but only once in a hundred cases. There might havebeen treachery in camp; the Egyptian officers suggested that aBaliyy scout could have been sent on to announce the approach ofa rich caravan. Accordingly, I ordered an evening review of our"Remingtons;" and chose a large mark purposely, that the Bedawilookers-on might not have cause to scoff. The escort redeemedmany a past lâche, by showing that their weapons had been keptbright and clean, and by firing neatly enough. The Baliyy, whohad never seen a breech-loader, were delighted; but one of ourparty so disliked the smell of powder, that he almost quarrelledwith me for bringing him into such imminent deadly risk. He washardly to be blamed; his nerves had been terribly shaken by aviper killed in his tent. 

Next morning (April 6th) saw the most unpleasant of our marches. The young Shaykh Sulaymán, accompanied by his cousin Sálim, setout in the dark as éclaireurs: they were supposed to lead eightor ten of the best matchlock-men, whereas I doubt whether thewhole camp contained that total. Presently it appeared that theywere alone, and the farce was hardly kept up through the nextday. At 5. 15 a. M. We followed them, marching militairement, as myfriend Sefer Pasha had strongly advised at Cairo. It is no joketo follow starveling beasts whose best speed seldom attains twomiles and a half per hour. However, the effect was excellent:never had there been so little straggling; never had thehalting-places been reached in such good time and good order. 

A pleasant surprise awaited us in the grandest display of quartzthat we had yet seen. The descent of the Wady el-Kurr seemed tobe as flat, stale, and profitless as possible, when "Mará"appeared on the left side in mounds, veins, and strews. Presentlywe turned south, and passed the brackish well, El-Hufayrah ("theLittle Pit"), in a bay of the left bank, distant about eightmiles from our last camp. Here the whole Wady, some two milesbroad, was barred with quartz, in gravel of the same rock, and inveins which, protruding from the dark schist, suggested that itunderlies the whole surface. Nothing more remarkable than thevariety of forms and tints mingling in the mighty mass--theamorphous, the crystallized, the hyaline, the burnt; here mottledand banded, there plain red and pink, green and brown, slaty andchocolate, purple, kaolin-white; and, rarest of all, honeycomb-yellow. The richest part was at the Majrá el-Kabsh("Divide of the Ram"), where we alighted and secured specimens. 

From this point the Wady el-Kurr flows down the right side of itsvalley, and disappears to the west; while the far side of theMajrá shows the Wady Gámirah (Kámirah), another influent of theWady el-Miyáh. Various minor divides led to the Wady el-Laylah, where ruins were spoken of by our confidant, ‘Audah, although hisinformation was discredited by the Shaykhs. Quartz-hills nowappeared on either side, creamy-coated cones, each capped by itsown sparkle whose brilliancy was set off by the gloomy trapswhich they sheeted and topped. In some places the material mayhave been the usual hard, white, heat-altered clay; but thevalley-sole showed only the purest "Marú. " The height of severalhills was nearly double that of the northern Jebel el-Abyaz; andthe reef-crests were apparently unworked. 

After the march had extended to seven hours (= 18 miles), therewere loud complaints about its length, the venerable ‘Afnánhimself begging us to spare his camels--which, being interpreted, meant spoiling our pockets. I therefore gave orders to camp inthe broad and open Wady Laylah. We were far from water, but theevening was pleasant, and the night was still more agreeable. 

At five a. M. Next day (April 7th) we rode up the Wady Laylah, which gave us another surprise, and an unexpected joy, in theshifting scenery of the Jibál el-Safhah. The "Mountains of thePlain, " so called because they start suddenly from a dead level, are a section of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah range; yet they areworthy links of a chain which boasts of a Shárr. Rising hard onour left, beyond the dull traps that hem in the Wadys, theseblocks, especially the lower features, the mere foot-hills, assume every quaintest nuance of hue and form. The fawn-greycolour, here shining as if polished by "slickensides, " there dulland roughened by the rude touch of Time, is a neutral ground thattakes all the tints with which sun and moon, mist and cloud, paint and glaze the world: changeable as the chameleon's, thecoating is never the same for two brief hours. The protean shape, seen in profile and foreshortened from the north or south, appears a block bristling with "Pins" and points, horns andbeaks. Viewed from the east the range splits into a double line, whose ranks have never been "dressed" nor sized; whilst adiagonal prospect so alters their forms and relations that theyapparently belong to another range. 

The background, lying upon the most distant visible plane, is thewhite-streaked and regular wall of the Jebel el-Ward, which wehave already seen from the sea. Its northern foot-ranges are thepale-white and jagged ‘Afayr, whose utter isolation makes itinteresting; and the low and long, the dark and dumpy JebelTufayyah. It is separated by a broad valley from its southernneighbour, the Jebel el-Ughlub, or El-Ghalab as some call it. This typical block consists chiefly of a monstrous "Parrot'sBeak" of granite, continued by a long dorsum to the south. Itsoutliers number four. These are, first, the Umm Natash, two setsof perpendicular buttresses pressed together like sausages orcigars. Then comes the Talát Muhajjah, a broken saddleback, whosecantle from the south-east appears split into a pair ofsteeple-like boulders--an architect of Alexander the Great's daywould have easily cut and trimmed them into such towers as theworld has never seen. Follows the Umm el-Natákah, bristling likethe fretful porcupine, and apparently disdaining to receive thefoot of man; while the last item, the Jebel el-Khausilah, hasoutlines so thoroughly architectural that we seem to gaze upon apile of building. 

About five miles behind or south of El-Khausilah runs the WadyHamz. Thus the two blocks, El-Ward and El-Ughlub, form the Safhahproper. The line is continued, after a considerable break, by thetwo blue and conical peaks in the Tihámat-Jahaníyyah, known asthe Jebelayn el-Rál. They are divided and drained to the WadyHamz by the broad Wady el-Sula'; and the latter is the short cutdown which the Egyptian Hajj, returning northwards fromEl-Medínah, debouches upon the maritime plain of South Midian. 

The Wady Laylah, draining both the Shafah and the Tihámah ranges, including the block El-Ward, assumes, as usual, various names: weshall follow it till it is received into the mighty arms of theWady Hamz, some three miles from the sea. After riding eighthours, we sighted the long line of Daum-palms which announce theapproach to El-Birkah, "the Tank. " Here the huge Fiumara, sweeping grandly from north-east to south-west, forms a charmingnarrow and a river-like run about a mile and a halflong--phenomenal again in sun-scorched Arabia. The water, collecting under the masses of trap which wall in the left bank, flows down for some distance in threads, ŕ ciel ouvert, andfinally combines in a single large blue-green pool on the rightside. A turquoise set in enamel of the brightest verdure, itattracts by its dense and shady beds of rushes a variety ofwater-fowl--one of our Bedawin killed a black-headed duck with abullet, which spoilt it as a specimen. About the water-run aredwarf enclosures, and even water-melons were sown; unhappily thetorrent came down and carried all away. 

We halted near the upper spring at 8. 20 a. M. , after the usualaccident which now occurred daily about that hour. On thisoccasion Lieutenant Yusuf's shoe stuck in the stirrup when he wasdismounting from an unsteady mule; the animal threw him, and hehad a somewhat narrow escape from being dragged to death. Man andbeast would have lingered long over the pleasures of watering andrefection, but I forced them onwards at nine a. M. , whilst the hotsun-rays were still tempered by the cool land-breeze. The threadsof water and the wet ground extended some two kilometres beyondthe Birkat. Further on was another fine "gate, " whose eastern orright jamb was the Jibál el-Tibgh, fronting the Wady M'jirmah. The narrows showed two Arab wells, with the usual platform of drytrunks that make a footing round the mouth. There was no break inthe continuity of the quartz: the black trap enclosed, heresheets, there veins, and there almonds in puddings. 

At the halting-place a "cerastes" (Echis carinata, Merr. ), socalled from the warty hollows over the eyes (?), was brought tome in a water-bag; the bearer transferred it to the spirit-bottleby neatly thrusting a packing-needle through the head. The prettyspecimen of an amiable, and much oppressed, race did not show anatom of vice. I cannot conceive what has caused the absurdprejudice against snakes, even the most harmless. Perhaps we musttrace it to the curious resemblance of the profile, with theflattened forehead, the steely bright eye, the formidable bitingapparatus, and the vanishing chin, to the genus woman, speciesLorette. It is hard to imagine that this little beast, which someone called a "Cleopatra's hasp, " could be fatal: its small bagcan hardly contain a couple of drops. Yet the vox populi isdistinctly against me. 

The Shaykhs were anxious to push on for another half-hour, where, they declared, a rain-hole is found in the next ravine, the Sha'bel-Kahafah. But we had been privily told of another further downthe valley, at the Sha'b el-Hárr; and, although we much wanted abottleful for photography, we determined to run the risk. Theresult is curious, showing how jealously water-secrets are keptin these lands. The next thing I heard was that the water hadwaxed salt; then it had dried up; and, lastly, it was in the bestcondition, the truth being that there was none at all. Consequently we were compelled to send back four camels and twocameleers from our next camping-ground to the Kahafah. Venerable‘Afnán made many a difficulty, and an uncommon favour, of riskingthe plundering of the dromedaries and the lives of his cateransby a razzia. The fellows set off after nightfall towards theupper ravine, distant some two hours' slow march: they must therehave had a pleasant, refreshing sleep; and they did not return, doubtless by order, till late next morning. This gave the Shaykhsa good opportunity of fearing greatly for the safety of theirpeople, and of delaying our march as much as possible. 

Resuming the road at 2. 30 p. M. , we entered the westernprolongation of the Wady el-Birkah. Here it becomes the WadyAbá'l-‘Agág (‘Ajáj), and preserves that name till it anastomoseswith the Hamz. There have been some wells in the bed; but all arenow filled up, and water must be carried from El-Birkah. Wecamped at a noble reach, garnished with a mimic forest of oldtamarisks, whose small voices, united in chorus, passablyimitated the mighty murmur of the sea. Our day's march hadcovered a score of miles; hard work, considering the condition ofthe mules. 

After a splendid night, we set out London-wards at five a. M. , April 8th, delayed, as has been said, by the politiké of theShaykhs. Moreover, one of the party, whose motto should have beenhalt's maul, had remarked that the camels appeared fewer thanbefore--another reason for stopping to count them. Half an hourplaced us at a lower and a grander carrefour, abounding in fueland seducing with tamarisk-shade: its water is known as the Máyatel-Badí'ah. Presently the hilly encasement of the Wady el-‘Ajájended with El-‘Adrá, a red butte to the left, and the Jebelel-Yakhmúm on the right. This knob was copiously veined withquartz, of which a prodigious depôt, explored on the next day, exists in the heights behind it. The Wady now flares out; we havedone with the Tihámah Mountains, and we are again in maritimeSouth Midian. 

Although we were standing some four hundred feet above thewassersspiegel, there was no view of the sea, and we had to crossa wave of ground before we pulled off our hats to Father Neptune, as he lay smiling in front of us. There was nothing monotonous inthe scene. The mirage raised high in air the yellow mound of RasKurkumah ("Turmeric Head"), which bounded the water-line to thesouth. Nearer, but still far to the left, ran the high right bankof the Wady Hamz, sweeping with a great curve from north-east towest, till it stood athwart our path. Knobby hills were scatteredover the plain; and on our right rose El-Juwayy, a black moundwith white-sided and scarred head, whose peculiar shape, a crestupon a slope, showed us once more the familiar Secondaryformation of North-Western Arabia. Thus the gypsum has beentraced from the Sinaitic shore as far south as the Wady Hamz. 

We rode sharply forwards, impatient to see the classical ruins, leaving the caravan to follow us. The Girdi ("sand-rat") hadceased to burrow the banks; but the jerboa had made regularrabbit-warrens. At half-past seven we crossed a winding andbroad-spreading track, the upper Hajj-road, by which the EgyptianMahmal passes when returning from El-Medi'nah viâ the Wady Hamz. A few yards further on showed us a similar line, the route takenby the caravan when going to Meccah viâ Yambú', now distant fivemarches. The two meet at the Wady Wafdíyyah, to the north-east ofthe Abá'l-Marú range, which we shall visit to-morrow. 

Shortly after 10 a. M. We crossed the deepest vein of the WadyHamz, urged the mules up the *stiff* left bank, and sprang fromthe saddle to enjoy a first view of the Gasr (Kasr) GurayyimSa'id. 

 Chapter XIX. The Wady Hamz--the Classical Ruin--Abá'l-Marú, the Mine of "Marwah"--Return to El-Wijh--Résumé of the Southern Journey. 

Before describing the Palace of Sa'íd the Brave, I must devote afew lines to a notice of the Wady Hamz. The Wady Hamz, which hasbeen mentioned as the southern frontier of Egyptian Midian, andthe northern limit of the Ottoman Hejaz, is the most notablefeature of its kind upon the North-Western Arabian shore. YetWallin has unjustifiably described and inscribed it "Wady Nejd, "confusing it with a northern basin, whose mouth, the Salbah(Thalbah), we passed before reaching Sharm Dumayghah. He appearsto identify it with the classical Wady el-Kura. Sprenger cleanignores the name, although he mentions its branches; and ofcourse it is utterly neglected by the Hydrographic Chart. Thismain approach to the Arabian interior is not a fissure, like thevulgar Wadys, but rather an opening where the Gháts, or maritimechain, break to the north and south. Distant one long or twoshort marches from El-Wijh, its mouth is in north lat. 25° 55';and it is said to head fifteen days inland, in fact beyondEl-Medínah, towards which it curves with a south-easterly bend. It receives a multitude of important secondary valleys; amongstwhich is the Wady el-‘Uwaynid, universally so pronounced. Icannot help thinking that this is El-‘Aúníd of El-Mukaddasi, which El-Idrísí (erroneously?) throws into the sea oppositeNu'ma'n Island. If my conjecture prove true, we thus have areason why this important line has been inexplicably neglected. Another branch is the Wady el-‘Is, Sprenger's "Al-‘Ys" (pp. 28, 29), which he calls "a valley in the Juhaynah country, " and makesthe northern boundary of that tribe. 

Ethnologically considered, the lower Wady Hamz is now thesouthern boundary of the Balawíyyah (Baliyy country), and thenorthern limit of the Jahaníyyah, or Juhaynah-land: the latter ispopularly described as stretching down coast to Wady Burmah, onemarch beyond Yambú' (?). Higher up it belongs to theAlaydán-‘Anezahs, under Shaykh Mutlak--these were the Bedawinwho, during our stay at the port, brought their caravan toEl-Wijh. Both tribes are unsafe, and they will wax worse as theygo south. Yet there is no difficulty in travelling up the Hamz, at least for those who can afford time and money to engage theescort of Shaykh Mutlak. A delay of twelve days to a fortnightwould be necessary, and common prudence would suggest the normalprecaution of detaining, as hostage in the seaboard settlement, one of his Alaydán cousins. Water is to be found the whole way, and the usual provisions are to be bought at certain places. 

The following notes upon the ruins of the Wady Hamz were suppliedto me by the Baliyy Bedawin and the citizens of El-Wijh. Sixstages up the lower valley, whose direction lies nearlynorth-east, lead to El-‘Ilá, Wallin's "Ela, " which belongs to the‘Anezah. Thence a short day, to the north with easting, placesthe traveller at Madáin (not Madyan nor Medínat) Sálih--"thecities of Sálih. " The site is described to be somewhat off themain valley, which is here broken by a Nakb (?); and those whohave visited both declared that it exactly resembles NabathćanMagháir Shu'ayb in extensive ruins and in catacombs caverning thehill-sides. 

Also called El-Hijr, it is made by Sprenger (p. 20) the capitalof Thamuditis. This province was the head-quarters of the giantrace termed the "Sons of Anak" (Joshua xi. 21); the Thamudeni andThamudć of Agatharkides and Diodorus; the Tamudći of Pliny; theThamyditć of Ptolemy; and the Arabian Tamúd (Thamúd), who, extinct before the origin of El-Islam, occupied the seaboardbetween El-Muwaylah and El-Wijh. Their great centre was the plainEl-Badá; and they were destroyed by a terrible sound from heaven, the Beth-Kol of the Hebrews, after sinfully slaughtering themiraculously produced camel of El-Sálih, the Righteous Prophet(Koran, cap. Vii. ). The exploration of "Sálih's cities" will bevaluable if it lead to the collection of inscriptionssufficiently numerous to determine whether the Tamúd wereEdomites, or kin to the Edomites; also which of the two races isthe more ancient, the Horites of Idumća or the Horites inEl-Hijr. 

And now to inspect the Gasr. The first sensation was one ofsurprise, of the mental state which gave rise to the Italian's--

 "Dear Columns, what do you here? ‘Not knowing, can't say, Mynheer!'"

And this incongruous bit of Greece or Rome, in the Arabian wild, kept its mystery to the last: the more we looked at it, the lesswe could explain its presence. Not a line of inscription, noteven a mason's mark--all dark as the grave; deaf-dumb as "theolden gods. "

The site of the Gasr is in north lat. 25° 55' 15";[EN#70] and thecentre of the Libn block bears from it 339° (mag. ). It standsupon the very edge of its Wady's left bank, a clifflet sometwenty-five feet high, sloping inland with the usual dark metaldisposed upon loose yellow sand. Thus it commands a glorious viewof the tree-grown valley, or rather valleys, beneath it; and ofthe picturesque peaks of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah in thebackground. The distance from the sea is now a little over threemiles--in ancient days it may have been much less. 

The condition of the digging proves that the remains have notlong been opened: the Baliyy state less than half a century ago;but exactly when or by whom is apparently unknown to them. Beforethat time the locale must have shown a mere tumulus, a moundsomewhat larger than the many which pimple the raised valley-bankbehind the building. A wall is said to have projected aboveground, as at Uriconium near the Wrekin. [EN#71] This may havesuggested excavation, besides supplying material for the Bedawicemetery to the south-west. The torrent waters have swept awaythe whole of the northern wall, and the treasure-seeker has lefthis mark upon the interior. Columns and pilasters and bevelledstones have been hurled into the Wady below; the largepavement-slabs have been torn up and tossed about to a chaos; andthe restless drifting of the loose yellow Desert-sand will soonbury it again in oblivion. The result of all such ruthlessruining was simply null. The imaginative Nájí declared, it istrue, that a stone dog had been found; but this animal went theway of the "iron fish, " which all at El-Muwaylah asserted to havebeen dug up at El-Wijh--the latter place never having heard ofit. Wallin (p. 316) was also told of a black dog which haunts theruins of Karáyyá, and acts guardian to its hidden treasures. Years ago, when I visited the mouth of the Volta river on theGold Coast, the negroes of Cape Coast Castle were pleased toreport that I had unearthed a silver dog, at whose appearance mycompanion, Colonel de Ruvignes, and myself fell dead. But whyalways a dog? The "Palace" is a Roman building of pure style;whether temple or nymphćum, we had no means of ascertaining. Thematerial is the Rughám or alabaster supplied by the Secondaryformation; and this, as we saw, readily crumbles to a whitepowder when burnt. The people, who in such matters may betrusted, declare that the quarries are still open at AbúMakhárír, under the hills embosoming Abá'l-Marú. We should havebeen less surprised had the ruin been built of marble, whichmight have been transported from Egypt; but this careful andclassical treatment of the common country stone, only added tothe marvel. 

It must have been a bright and brilliant bit of colouring in itsbest days--hence, possibly, the local tradition that the stonesweats oil. The whole building, from the pavement to the coping, notched to receive the roof-joists, is of alabaster, plain-whiteand streaked with ruddy, mauve, and dark bands, whose mottlinggives the effect of marble. Perhaps in places the gypsum has beensubjected to plutonic action; and we thought that the colouredwas preferred to the clear for the bases of the columns. Theexposed foundations of the eastern and western walls, where thetorrent has washed away the northern enceinte, show that, afterthe fashion of ancient Egypt, sandstone slabs have been laidunderground, the calcaire being reserved for the hypaethral part. The admirable hydraulic cement is here and there made to take theplace of broken corners, and flaws have been remedied bycarefully letting in small cubes of sound stone. There are alsocramp-holes for metal which, of course, has been carried off bythe Bedawin: the rusty stains suggest iron. 

The building is square-shaped, as we see from the western wall, and it evidently faced eastward with 25° (mag. ) of southing. Thisorientation, probably borrowed from the Jews, was not thoroughlyadopted in Christendom till the early fifth century, when itbecame a mos. The southern wall, whose basement is perfect, showseverywhere a thickness of 0. 95 centimetre, and a total length of8 metres 30 centimetres. At 2 metres 87 centimetres from thesouth-western corner is a slightly raised surface, measuring inlength 2 metres 15 centimetres. Mr. James Fergusson supposes thatthis projection, which directly fronts the eastern entrance, wasthe base of the niche intended for the image. On each side of thelatter might have been a smaller colonette, which would accountfor the capital carried off by us to Egypt. Thus, adding 2 metres87 centimetres for the northern end swept into the valley, wehave a length of 7 metres 89 centimetres; and the additional halfthickness of the east wall would bring it to a total of 8 metres30 centimetres. 

The shrine was not in antis, and the site hardly admits of aperistyle; besides which, excavations failed to find it. That itmight have had a small external atrium is made probable by thepeculiarity of the entrance. Two rounded pilasters, worked withthe usual care inside, but left rough in other parts because theycould not be seen, were engaged in the enceinte wall, measuringhere, as elsewhere, 0. 95 centimetre in thickness. Nothingremained of them but their bases, whose lower diameters were 0. 95centimetre, and the upper 0. 65; the drums found elsewhere alsomeasured 0. 65. The interval between the lowest rings was 1 metre63 centimetres; and this would give the measure of the doorway, here probably a parallelogram. Lying on the sand-slope to thenorth, a single capital showed signs of double brackets, althoughboth have been broken off:[EN#72] the maximum diameter across thetop was 0. 60 centimetre, diminishing below to 0. 50 and 0. 44, whilst the height was 0. 40. The encircling wall was probablyadorned with pilasters measuring 0. 62 centimetre below, 0. 45above, and 0. 11 in height: they are not shown in the plan; and Ileave experts to determine whether they supported the inside orthe outside surface. Several stones, probably copings, are cutwith three mortice-joints or joist-holes, each measuring 0. 15centimetre, at intervals of 0. 14 to 0. 15. 

In the tossed and tumbled interior of this maison carrée thepavement-slabs, especially along the south-western side, appearin tolerable order and not much disturbed; whilst further east along trench from north to south had been sunk by the treasureseeker. The breadth of the free passage is 1 metre 92centimetres; and the disposal suggested an inner peristyle, forming an impluvium. Thus the cube could not have been a heroönor tomb. Four bases of columns, with a number of drums, lie inthe heap of ruins, and in the torrent-bed six, of which wecarried off four. They are much smaller than the pilasters of theentrance; the lower tori of the bases measure 0. 60 centimetre indiameter, and 0. 20 in height (to 0. 90 and 0. 25), while the drumsare 0. 45, instead of 0. 65. It is an enormous apparatus to supportwhat must have been a very light matter of a roof. The onlyspecimen of a colonette-capital has an upper diameter of 0. 26, alower of 0. 17, and a height of 0. 16. 

Although the Meccan Ka'bah is, as its name denotes, a "cube, "this square alabaster box did not give the impression of beingeither Arab or Nabathćan. The work is far too curiously andconscientiously done; the bases and drums, as the sundriescarried to Cairo prove, look rather as if turned by machinerythan chiselled in the usual way. I could not but conjecture thatit belongs to the days of such Roman invasions as that of ĆliusGallus. Strabo[EN#73] tells us of his unfortunate friend andcompanion, that, on the return march, after destroyingNegrán[EN#74] (Pliny, vi. 32), he arrived at Egra or Hegra(El-‘Wijh), where he must have delayed some time before he couldembark "as much of his army as could be saved, " for the oppositeAfrican harbour, Myus Hormus. It is within the limits ofprobability that this historical personage[EN#75] might havebuilt the Gasr, either for a shrine or for a nymphćum, avotive-offering to the Great Wady, which must have cheered hisheart after so many days of "Desert country, with only a fewwatering-places. " Perhaps an investigation of the ruins at RasKurkumah and the remains of Madáin Sálih may throw some lightupon the mystery. In our travel this bit of classical temple wasunique. 

Mr. Fergusson, whose authority in such matters will not readilybe disputed, calls the building a small shrine; and determinesthat it can hardly be a tomb, as it is hypćthral. The onlysimilar temple known to him is that of "Soueideh" (Suwaydah), inthe Haurán (De Vogüé, "Syrie Centrale, " Plate IV. ). The latter, which is Roman, and belonging to the days of Herod Augustus, hasa peristyle here wanting: in other respects the resemblance isstriking. 

M. Lacaze photographed, under difficulties such as bad water anda most unpleasant drift of sand-dust, the interior of thebuilding, the stones lying in the Wady below, and the variousspecimens which we carried off for the inspection of his Highnessthe Viceroy. Meanwhile we "pottered about, " making smalldiscoveries. The exposed foundations of the north-western wall, where the slabs of grit rest upon the sands of the cliff, afforded signs of man in the shape of a jaw-bone, with teethapparently modern; and above it, in the terreplein, we dug downupwards of a yard, without any result beyond unearthing a fineblack scorpion. The adjoining Arab graveyard, adorned with themutilated spoils of the classical building, gave two imperfectskulls and four fragments. We opened one of the many mounds thatlie behind the Gasr, showing where most probably stood the ruinedtown; and we found the interior traversed by a crumbling wall ofcut alabaster--regular excavation may some day yield importantresults. A little to the south-west lies a kind of ossuary, atumulus slightly raised above the wavy level, and showing acentral pit choked with camels' bones: at least, we could find noother. 

And here I was told the Arab legend by the Wakíl; who, openlyderiding the Bedawi idea that the building could be a "Castle, "opined that it was a Kanísah, a "Christian or pagan place ofworship. " Gurayyim Sa'íd, "Sa'íd the Brave, " was an Africanslave, belonging to an Arab Shaykh whose name is forgotten. Oneday it so happened that a razzia came to plunder his lord, whenthe black, whose strength and stature were equal to his courageand, let us add, his appetite, did more than his duty. Thus heobtained as a reward the promise of a bride, his master'sdaughter. But when the day of danger was past, and the slaveapplied for the fair guerdon, the Shaykh traitorously refused tokeep his word. The Brave, finding a fit opportunity, naturallyenough carried off the girl to the mountains; solemnly thrashedevery pursuing party; and, having established a "reign ofterror, " came to the banks of the Wady Hamz, and built the"Palace" for himself and his wife. But his love forbutcher's-meat did not allow him to live happily ever after. Asthe land yielded little game, he took to sallying out every dayand carrying off a camel, which in the evening he slew, androasted, and ate, giving a small bit of it to his spouse. Thisextravagance of flesh-diet ended by scandalizing the wholecountry-side, till at last the owner of the plundered herds, Diyáb ibn Ghánim, one of the notables celebrated in the romancecalled Sírat Abu' Zayd, [EN#76] assembled his merry men, attackedthe Gurayyim, and slew him. Wa' s' salám!

Here Egypt ends. We have done our work--

 "And now the hills stretch home. "

I must, however, beg the reader to tarry with me awhile. The nextmarch to the north will show him what I verily believe to be theold gold-mine lying around El-Marwah. It acquires an especialinterest from being the northernmost known to the mediaevalgeographers. 

El-Mukaddasi (vol. I. P. 101), in an article kindly copied by myfriend, the Aulic Councillor, Alfred Von Kremer, says, "BetweenYambú' and El-Marwah are mines of gold;" adding ("Itinerary, "vol. I. P. 107) the following route directions: "And thou takestfrom El-Badr (‘the New Moon')[EN#77] to El-Yambú' two stages;thence to the Ras el-‘Ayn (?), [EN#78] one stage; again to themine (subaudi, of gold), one stage; and, lastly, to El-Marwah, two stages. And thou takest from El-Badr to El-Jár[EN#79] onestage; thence to El-Jahfah (?), or to El-Yambu', two stages each. And thou takest from El-Jiddah (Jedda) to El-Jár, or toEl-Surrayn (?), four stages each. And thou takest from El-Yasrib(Jatrippa or El-Medínah) to El-Suwaydíyyah (?), or to Batnel-Nakhil (?), two stages each; and from El-Suwaydíyyah toEl-Marwah, an equal distance (i. E. Four marches); and from theBatn el-Nakhil to the mine of silver, a similar distance. And ifthou seek the Jáddat Misr, [EN#80] then take from El-Marwah toEl-Sukyá[EN#81] (?), and thence to Badá Ya'kúb, [EN#82] threemarches; and thence to El-‘Aúníd, one march. " Hence Sprengerwould place Zú'l-Marwah "four days from El-Hijr, on the westernroad to Medina;" alluding to the western (Syrian) road, nowabandoned. 

And now for our march. On the finest possible morning (April9th), when the world was all ablaze with living light, I walkeddown the Wady Hamz. It has been abundantly supplied with water;in fact, the whole vein (thalweg) subtending the left bank wouldrespond to tapping. The well El-Kusayr, just below the ruin, though at present closed, yielded till lately a large quantity:about half a mile to the westward is, or rather was, a saltishpit surrounded by four sweet. Almost all are now dry and filledup with fuel. A sharp trudge of three-quarters of an hour leadsto the Bir el-Gurnah (Kurnah), the "Well of the Broad, " in adistrict of the same name, lying between the ruin and the shore. It is a great gash in the sandy bed: the taste of the turbidproduce is distinctly sulphurous; and my old white mule, beingdainty in her drink, steadfastly refused to touch it. Thedistinct accents of the Red Sea told us that we were not morethan a mile from its marge. 

We then struck north-east, over the salt maritime plain, till wehit the lower course of the Wady Umm Gilifayn (Jilifayn). Itheads from the seaward base of the neighbouring hills; and itsmouth forms a Marsá, or "anchorage-place, " for native craft. Alittle to the north stands the small pyramidal Tuwayyilel-Kibrít, the "little Sulphur Hill, " which had been carefullyexamined by MM. Marie and Philipin. A slow ride of eight milesplaced us in a safe gorge draining a dull-looking, unpromisingblock. Here we at once found, and found in situ for the firsttime, the chalcedony which strews the seaboard-flat. This agate, of which amulets and signet-rings were and are still made, andwhich takes many varieties of tints, lies in veins mostlystriking east-west; and varying in thickness from an inch toseveral feet. The sequence is grey granite below, the band ofchalcedony, and above it a curious schistose gneiss-formation. The latter, composing the greater part of these hills, is stripeddark-brown and yellow; and in places it looks exactly like rottenwood. The small specimens of chalcedony in my private collectionwere examined at Trieste, and one of them contained dendriticgold, visible to the naked eye. Unfortunately the engineer hadneglected this most important rock, and only a few ounces of it, instead of as many tons, were brought back for analysis. 

A short and easy ascent led to a little counter-slope, the MajráMujayrah (Mukayrah), whose whitening sides spoke of quartz. Werode down towards a granite island where the bed mouths into thebroad Wady Mismáh, a feeder of the Wady ‘Argah. Here, after someten miles, the guide, Na'ji', who thus far had been very misty inthe matter of direction, suddenly halted and, in his showmanstyle, pointed to the left bank of the watercourse, exclaiming, "Behold Abá'l-Marú!" (the "Father of Quartz"). It was anothersurprise, and our last, this snowy reef with jagged crest, atleast 500 metres long, forming the finest display of an exposedfilon we had as yet seen; but--the first glance told us that ithad been worked. 

We gave the rest of the day to studying and blasting thequartz-wall. It proved to be the normal vein in grey granite, running south-north and gradually falling towards thevalley-plain. Here a small white outlier disappears below thesurface, rising again in filets upon the further side. The dip iseasterly: in this direction a huge strew of ore-mass and rubbishcovers the slope which serves as base to the perpendicular reef. The Negro quartz, which must have formed half the thickness, hadbeen carried bodily away. If anything be left for the moderns itis hidden underground: the stone, blasted in the little outlier, looked barren. Not the least curious part of this outcrop is theblack thread of iron silicate which, broken in places, subtendsit to the east: some specimens have geodes yielding brown powder, and venal cavities lined with botryoidal quartz of amethystinetinge. In other parts of the same hills we found, running alongthe "Mará, " single and double lines of this material, whichlooked uncommonly like slag. 

The open Wady Mismáh showed, to the east of our camp, the ruinsof a large settlement which has extended right across the bed: asthe guides seemed to ignore its existence, we named it theKharábat Abá'l-Marú. Some of the buildings had been on a largescale, and one square measured twenty yards. Here the peculiaritywas the careful mining of a granitic hillock on the southernbank. The whole vein of Negro quartz had been cut out of threesides, leaving caves that simulated catacombs. Further westanother excavation in the same kind of rock was probably thetown-quarry. The two lieutenants were directed next morning tosurvey this place, and also a second ruin and reef reported to befound on the left bank, a little below camp. 

We have now seen, lying within short distances, three severalquartz-fields, known as--Marwah, "the single Place or Hill ofMaú'" (quartz); Marwát, "the Places of Quartz;" and Abá'l-Marú, the "Father of Quartz;" not to speak of a Nakb Abú Marwah[EN#83]further north. The conclusion forced itself upon me that the nameof the celebrated Arab mine Zú'l Marwah or El-Marwah, the moreancient (Mochura), which Ptolemy places in northlat. 24° 30', applied to the whole district in South Midian, andthen came to denote the chief place and centre of work. To judgeby the extent of the ruins, and the signs of labour, this focuswas at Umm el-Karáyát (the "Mother of the Villages"), which, ashas been shown, is surrounded by a multitude of miner-towns andateliers. And the produce of the "diggings" would naturallygravitate to El-Badá, the great commercial station upon theNabathćan "Overland. "

Thus El-Marwah would signify "the Place of Marú, " or"Quartz-land, " even as Ophir means "Red Land. " A reviewer of myfirst book on Midian objects to the latter derivation; asSeetzen, among others, has conclusively shown that Ophir, thetrue translation of which is ‘riches, ' is to be looked for inSouthern Arabia. " Connu! But I question the "true translation;"and, whilst owning that one of the Ophirs or "Red Lands" lay inthe modern Yemen, somewhere between Sheba (Sabá) and Havilah(Khaulán), I see no reason for concluding that this was the onlyOphir. Had it been a single large emporium on the Red Sea, whichcollected the produce of Arabia and the exports of India and ofWest Africa, the traditional site could hardly have escaped thenotice of the inquiring Arabian geographers of our Middle Ages. The ruins of a port would have been found, and we should not becompelled theoretically to postulate its existence. 

 * * * * * *

And now nothing remained but to escape as quickly as possiblefrom the ugly Wady Mismáh; with its violent, dusty wester, orsea-breeze, and its sun-glare which, reflected and reverberatedby the quartz, burned the grass and made the trees resemblestanding timber. 

April 10th saw the last of our marches, a hurry back to thestable, a sauve qui peut. The camel-men, reckless of orders, began to load and to slip away shortly after midnight. Ali Marie, who, as usual, had lost his head, when ordered to enjoin silencegave the vain and vague direction, "Tell the Arabs to tell thecamels not to make so much noise. " Even the bugler sounded the"general" of his own accord; and the mules, now become painfullyintelligent, walked as if they knew themselves to be walkinghomewards. Our last stage lay over the upper skirts of themaritime plain which has already been noticed. At 10. 15 am. , after riding five hours and thirty minutes (= seventeen miles), we found ourselves once more upon the seaboard. Our kind host, Captain Hasan Bey, came to meet us in his gig: the quarter-deckhad been dressed with flags, as for a ball; and before twelvebells struck, we had applied ourselves to an excellent breakfastin the gun-room of our old favourite, the Sinnár. The auspiciousday of course ended with a fantasia. 

 Résumé of Our Last Journey. 

We had left the Sharm Yáhárr on March 21st, and returned to it onApril 13th; a total of twenty-four days. Our actual march throughSouth Midian, which had lasted thirteen days (March 29--April10), described a semicircle with El-Wijh about the middle of thechord. The length is represented by 170 miles in round numbers:as usual, this does not include the various offsets and theby-paths explored by the members; nor do the voyages to El-Wijhand El-Haurá, going and coming, figure in the line of route. Thecamels varied from fifty-eight to sixty-four, when specimens wereforwarded to the harbour-town. The expenditure amounted toŁ9213s. , including pay and "bakhshísh" to the Baliyy Shaykhs, butnot including our friends the Sayyid, Furayj, and the WakílMohammed Shahádah. 

This southern region differs essentially from the northern, whichwas twice visited, and which occupied us two months, mostlywasted. Had we known what we do now, I should have begun with thesouth, and should have devoted to it the greater part of ourtime. Both are essentially mining countries; but, whilst thesection near Egypt preserves few traces of the miner, here wefind the country carefully and conscientiously worked. The wholeeastern counterslope of the outliers that project from theGhát-section known as the mountains of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah, isone vast outcrop of quartz. The parallelogram between north lat. 26 degrees, including the mouth of the Wady Hamz, and north lat. 27°, which runs some fifteen miles north of the Badá plain, wouldform a Southern Grant, sufficiently large to be divided andsubdivided as soon as judged advisable. 

If the characteristics of North Midian (Madyan Proper) are itsargentiferous, and especially its cupriferous ores, South Midianworked chiefly gold and silver, both metals being mentioned bythe mediaeval geographers of Arabia. Free gold in paillettes wasnoticed by the Expedition in the micaceous schists veining thequartz, and in the chalcedony which parts the granite from thegneiss. The argentiferous Negro quartz everywhere abounds, andnear the ruins of Badá lie strews of spalled "Marú, " eachfragment showing its little block of pure lead. Saltpetre isplentiful, and a third "Sulphur hill" rises from the maritimeplain north of the Wady Hamz. 

The principal ruins and ateliers number five; these, beginningfrom the north, are the Umm el-Karáyát, the Umm el-Haráb, theBújat-Badá, the Kharábat Abá'l-Marú, and the old Nabathean port, E1-Haurá. Amongst them is not included the gem of our discovery, the classical shrine, known as Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd, nor the minorateliers, El-Kubbah, Abá'l-Gezáz, and the remains upon the Marwátridge. Good work was done by the Egyptian Staff-officers insurveying the fine harbour of El-Dumayghah, so well fitted as arefuge for pilgrim-ships when doing quarantine; and I ventureupon recommending, to the English and Egyptian Governments, myremarks concerning the advisability of at once re-transferringthe station to El-Wijh. It is now at Tor; and, as has been said, it forms a standing menace, not only to the Nile Valley, but tothe whole of Europe. 

Whilst abounding in wood, the Southern Country is not so wellwatered as are Central and Northern Midian On the other hand, thetenants, confined to the Baliyy tribe, with a few scatters of thedespised Hutaym, are milder and more tractable than the Huwaytát. As I have remarked, they are of ancient strain, and they stillconserve the instincts of their predecessors, or theirforefathers, the old mining race. It will be necessary to defendthem against the raids and incursions of the Juhaynah, or "Sonsof Dogs, " who border upon them to the south, and from theAlaydán-‘Anezah to the south-east; but nothing would be easierthan to come to terms with the respective Shaykhs. And the soonerwe explore the Jaww, or sandstone region in the interior, withits adjacent "Harrahs, " the better for geography and, perhaps notless, for mineralogy. The great ruins of Madáin Sálih upon theWady Hamz still, I repeat, await the discoverer. 

 Conclusion. 

The next day saw us at El-Wijh, dispensing pay and "bakhshísh" tothe companions of our Desert march; and shipping the men andmules, with the material collected during the southern journey. The venerable Shaykh ‘Afnán and his Baliyy were not difficult todeal with; and they went their way homewards fully satisfied. Weexchanged a friendly adieu, or rather an au revoir, with ourexcellent travelling companion, Mohammed Shahádah; and Iexpressed my sincere hopes to find him, at no distant time, governor of the restored Quarantine-station. 

On the morning of April 12th we set out betimes, and anchored forthe night in one of the snug bays of Jebel Nu'man. The next dayplaced us at the Sharm Yáhárr, where the process of generaldistribution happily ended. Here the final parting took placewith the gallant companions of our four months' travel. ShaykhFurayj, delighted with the gift, in addition to his pay, of aStyrian skean-dhu and an Austrian Werndl-carbine, at once set offto rejoin the tribe up-country; while the Sayyid steadfastlystayed with us to the last. These men had become our friends; andmy sorrow at leaving them was softened only by the prospect ofpresently seeing them again. 

Immediately after my return to Cairo I strongly recommended theSayyid for promotion, in these words:--"First and foremost is theSayyid ‘Abd el-Rahím, the head of a noble family, settled forgenerations at El-Muwayláh, where he is now Kátib (‘accountant')to the Fort. He knows thoroughly the whole Land of Midian; he isloved and respected by all the Arabs, and both he and his aredevoted to the Government of your Highness. Evidently it would beadvantageous to promote such a man to the post of governor of theplace--a post which will presently become of high importance, andwhich is actually held by an old officer, almost bed-ridden. 

"The second is Shaykh Mohammed Shahádah, of El-Wijh, a man offamily and position; known far and wide, and made generallypopular by his generous and charitable actions. He was formerlyWakíl, or ‘agent, ' to the Fort el-Wijh, until that office wasabolished. The port will presently have its custom-house; and Ipropose forwarding to her Britannic Majesty's Government my notesupon the subject of the Quarantine-station, which has imprudentlybeen transferred from Arabia to Tor, in the Sinaitic Peninsula. Meanwhile it would, I venture to suggest, be most advantageous ifMohammed Shahádah were named governor of his native place. "

The Expedition, in its urgent desire to return northwards, wasnot seconded by weather. Despite an ugly gale, the Sinnár boldlyattempted giving the slip to Arabia on April 16th, but she wasbeaten back before she reached El-Muwaylah. After another stormyday, we again got up steam; and, fighting hard against adversewinds and waves, greatly to the distress of the unfortunate mulesand gazelles, we reached Suez on April 20th. 

At Suez my wife had been awaiting me for long weeks, preferringthe simplicity of the Desert to the complex life of Cairo. Somedelay was again necessary in order to telegraph our arrival, toapply for a special train, and to sort and pack in thetravelling-cases our twenty-five tons of specimens. As oftenhappens, the return to civilization was in nowise cheery. Everything seemed to go wrong. For instance, the Dragomandespatched to town from the New Docks in order to lay in certaincomforts, such as beef and beer, prudently laid out the coin in abrand-new travelling suit intended for his own service. Such anapology for a dinner had not been seen during the last fourmonths of wild travel--unpleasant when guests have been bidden toa feast! The night at the Docks, also, was a trifle mortuary, over-silent and tranquil: all hands, officers and men, who couldnot get leave to sleep ashore, simply took leave--I believemyself to have been for a time both captain and crew of theSinnár. And, lastly, we heard that both our dog-companions, Junoand Páijí, had died of some canine epidemic. 

The next day ended our halt at Suez, with visits to slop-shopsand a general discussion of choppes. The old hotel, under thecharge of Mr. And Mrs. Adams, had greatly improved by the"elimination" of the offensive Hindi element; and my old friendsof a quarter-century's standing received me with all their wontedheartiness. Sa'íd Bey was still a Bey, but none the less jovialand genial; Captain Ali Bey, who had commanded the Sinnár, wasnow acting commodore; and my only regret was having again missedColonel Gordon (Pasha). 

April 22nd convinced us that, even in these prosaic regions, ourmisadventures and accidents had not reached their fated end. Aspecial train had been organized by Hanafi Effendi for eight a. M. About ten miles from Suez one of the third-class carriages began"running hot;" and, before we could dismount, the axle-box of atruck became a young Vesuvius in the matter of vomiting smoke. Iordered the driver, who was driving furiously, to make halfspeed; but even with this precaution there were sundry stoppages;and at the Naffíshah station, where my Bolognese acquaintancesstill throve, we could not be supplied with a change of"rolling-stock. " About Tell el-Kabír, the brake-van also waxedunsafely warm; but it reached Zagázig without developing morecaloric. Briefly, we caught fire three times in one morning. 

These accidents must always be expected, where spare carriagesare placed for months upon sidings to become tinder in the sun;and where the cracks and crevices of the woodwork fill up withthe silicious sand of the Desert, an admirable succedaneum forflint and steel. One consolation, however, remained to us: theDragoman, brand-new clothes and all, was left behind at Suez. Hislast chef d'śuvre of blundering has already beennoticed[EN#84]--the barrel of Midianitish oysters sent to AdmiralM'Killop (Pasha) had been so carelessly headed up, and socarefully turned topsy-turvy, that the result was, to use myfriend's words, they could be nosed from the half-way station. The "Kyrios" had probably passed a Bacchanalian night with hisHellenic friends, and he subsequently made act of presence atCairo with a very British-looking black eye. His accident at Suezwas a bit of "poetical justice, " which almost convinced one ofthe "moral government. "

A succulent breakfast ŕ la fourchette, in the charming garden ofour friend M. Vetter, of Zagázig, duly discussed, we again went"on board, " amusing the lookers-on by our naive enjoyment of theNile-valley: they had not been in Arabia, and they found the"emerald-green" dusty and yellow. We reached Cairo at 5. 30 p. M. More troubles! Ten minutes after arrival we found ourselves inpossession, in sole charge of the gare. The train was loaded withGovernment property, officers, soldiers and escort, mules, boxesand bags of specimens whose collecting had cost money. Yetstation-master, agent, and employés at once went their ways, declining even to show the room allotted to our goods, although atelegram from the railway authorities had advised me that one hadbeen made ready. The assistant-agent, when at last hunted up, declared, before vanishing once more, that the porters for whomwe applied were busy loading cotton, and that we must e'en do thebest we could for ourselves. So the waggons were shunted andunloaded by their tenants, and the minerals were deposited undera kind of shed whose key was not forthcoming. We failed to findeven a light, till the local train from Suez was announced; and, when it began whistling, the officials, who had returned likerats from their holes, gave us peremptory directions to shuntagain. This time, however, I had the game in my hands; andreplied by taking due precautions against being turned out. 

At first the soldier-escort worked as well as could be expected;but the numbers fell off every quarter of an hour, till we wereleft with a very select party; the only recipients, by-the-by, of"bakhshísh. " The Sub-Lieutenant Mohammed Effendi mounted a donkeythe moment he stepped out of the R. R. Carriage; and, utterlydisregarding so vexatious a frivolity as asking leave, rode offto his home at Torah. His example was followed by the SergeantMabrúk ‘Awaz. And yet both these men had the impudence to callupon me at the hotel, and to apply for especial Shahádahs, or"testimonials" of good conduct. In short, we were detained at thestation for three mortal hours, working with our own hands. Ifthis be a fair specimen of European management in Egypt, and I amtold that it has now become worse, much worse in every way, thesooner we return to Egyptian mismanagement the better. The latteris, at any rate, cheap and civil. 

On the next day the Viceroy graciously sent his junior Master ofCeremonies, his Excellency Tonino Bey, to welcome me back; and Iwas at once honoured with audiences at the Khedivial Palace, ‘Abidin, and by Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha at Gizah (Jízah). TheKhediv was pleased to express satisfaction with my pastexertions, and ordered several measures to be carried out atonce. Amongst them was a little exhibition of mineralogy andarchaeology, maps and plans, sketches and croquis, at theHippodrome. 

I need hardly say that his Highness at once saw the gist of thematter. Many concessions had been applied for, even fromAustralia; but the Viceroy determined that, before any could begranted, careful analyses of the specimens must be made, at hisHighness's private expense, in London. M. Ferdinand de Lesseps, of world-wide fame, volunteered, in the most friendly way, tosubmit échantillons of the rocks to the Parisian Académie desSciences, of which he is a distinguished member. The Viceroy wasalso pleased spontaneously to remind me of, and to renew, theverbal promise made upon my return from the first Expedition toMidian; namely, that I should be honoured with a concession, orthat a royalty of five per cent. On the general produce of themines should be the reward of discovery. The young Minister ofFinance, Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha, after courteouslycongratulating me upon the successful result of our labours, putas usual the most pertinent of questions. 

The opening of our little Exposition was delayed by sundrydifficulties. The Greek Easter set in with its usual severityabout later April. A general shop-shutting, a carouse unlimited, catholic, universal; and, despite stringent police orders, abombardment of the town by squibs and crackers, were theprincipal features of the fęte. The 29th was the classical Shammel-Nasin, or "the Smelling of the Zephyr, " a local May-dayreligiously kept with utter idleness. Mr. W. E. Hayns and Iutilized it by going a flint-hunting on the left bank of theNile. [EN#85] Then the terrible "May coupon" gave immense troubleand annoyance to the rulers; who, so far from making merry withthe lieges, had to work in person between five a. M. And midnight. After such exertion as this, rest was of course necessary. Subsequently, a grand review monopolized one day; another wasspent by the Court in despatching the young Prince Fu'ád toSwitzerland; and yet another was given to his Highness the PrinceHasan Pasha, Commander-in-Chief of the Egyptian auxiliaries, who, on the conclusion of the war, had returned to Cairo en route forEurope. 

 Briefly, it was not before May 9th that the Khediv, accompaniedby the Prince héritier, Taufík Pasha, found leisure personally toopen the Exhibition--the first, by-the-by, ever honoured with theViceregal presence. Despite all my efforts, the rooms, whichshould have been kept clear till his Highness had passed through, were crowded at an early hour. The maps prepared at the Citadelby Lieutenants Amir and Yusuf, with the aid of three extra hands, were very imperfect, half finished at the last moment, andabounding in such atrocities as "Ouorh" for "El-Wijh. " Theengineer, M. Marie, when asked aloud, and with all publicity, bythe Khediv whether he was sure that such and such specimenscontained gold, shirked a direct reply, evasively declaring that"Midian is a fine mining country. " He had pointed out to me theprecious metal during our exploration of Umm el-Karáyat; but suchis the wretched result of "knowing the people, " instead oftelling the truth like a man. And one of the many jealous, a mildMephisto. , whispered in the Viceregal ear, "There can't be muchgold there, or ces messieurs would have said more about it. "

Despite these small contretemps the Exhibition[EN#86] waspronounced a success, and served, as such things do, for a ninedays' wonder. Several travellers from England and Australia tookthe opportunity of inspecting the rocks; and I was muchencouraged to find the general opinion so highly favourable. Locally there were dissidents, but this must be expected whereinterests differ. 

Meanwhile his Highness kept me hard at work. I was directed todraw up a concise general description of the province; to reportupon the political and other measures by which the Midian countrywould be benefited; and, lastly, to suggest the means which, inmy humble opinion, were best calculated for successfully workingthe mines. In former days the Viceroy would at once haveundertaken the task, and probably would have sent down fivethousand men to open the diggings. Now, however, the endlesstrickery of European adventurers and speculators has made a wiseprecaution absolutely necessary. During the last audience, hisHighness ably and lucidly resumed the history of the pastmeasures, and the steps which he proposed for the future. Thefirst Khedivial Expedition had been simply one of exploration, sent to ascertain whether the precious metals really existed. Thesecond was intrusted with the charge of laying down the probablelimits of the mining formation; and of bringing back variedspecimens, in quantities sufficient for scientific analysis. Thethird and next step would be to organize a Compagnie deRecherche, with the object of beginning a serious exploitation. The future thus settled, I was kindly and courteously dismissed, with a desire that I should take charge of the specimens, andpersonally superintend the work of assaying. Mr. Charles Clarkereceived pay and leave for three months, and was ordered toconvey the boxes by "long sea. "

On May 10th we left Cairo in company with our friend Mr. Garwood, C. E. At Alexandria a great repose fell upon my spirit; it waslike gliding into a smooth port after a storm at sea. All thepetty troubles and worries of Cairo; the cancans, the intrigues, the silly reports of the envious and the jealous, with the buzzand sting of mosquitoes; the weary waiting; the visits of"friends" whose main object in life seemed to be tuer le ver; andthe exigencies of my late fellow-travellers, who, after liberalpay and free living for four months, seemed determined to quarterthemselves upon the Egyptian Government for the rest of theirnatural lives;--all these small cares, not the less annoyingbecause they were small, disappeared like magic at the firstglimpse of blue water. I had barely time to pass an afternoon atRamleh, "the Sand-heap, " with an intimate of twenty-five years'standing, Hartley John Gisborne, an old servant of the Egyptian"Crown, " for whom new men and new measures have, I regret to see, made the valley of the Nile no longer habitable. 

The next Sunday placed us on board the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd'sscrew-steamer Austria (Capitano Rossol). As usual, the commanderand officers did all they could to make their voyagerscomfortable; the Company did the contrary. At this spring season, true, the migratory host of unfeathered bipeds crowds northwards;even as in autumn it accompanies the birds southwards. But whenberths are full, passengers should be refused; and if thecommercial director prefers dead to live goods, travellers shouldbe duly warned. The accommodation would have been tolerable in asecond-class or third-class English steamer, which chargesfifteen shillings to a sovereign per diem; here, however, we werepaying between Ł2 and Ł3. 

The Alexandrian agent had been asked to lodge us decently. Mywife found herself in a cabin occupied by two nurses. I wasplaced in a manner of omnibus, a loose box for six, of whom onewas an Armenian and two were Circassians from Daghistán--good menenough, but not pleasant as bedroom fellows. No extra service hadbeen engaged for an extra cargo of seventy-two; that is, forty-two first, and thirty second class. There were only threestewards, including the stewardess; and the sick were left toserve themselves. At least half a dozen were required; and, insuch places as Trieste and Alexandria, a large staff of cooks andwaiters can always be engaged in a few hours. On board anyEnglish ship some of the smartest and handiest seamen would havebeen converted into temporary attendants--here no one seemed tothink of a proceeding so far out of the usual way. There was onlyone, instead of three or four cooks; and the unfortunate had tofill a total of one hundred and thirty-five mouths, the crewincluded, three times a day. The other tenant of the close andwretched little galley lay sick with spotted typhus; and, afterbarbarous neglect, he died on the day following our arrival atTrieste--I did not hear that the surgeon of the screw-steamerAustria had met with his deserts by summary dismissal from theservice. The Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's was once famed for goodliving; over-economy and high dividends have now made the cuisineworse than the cheapest of tables d'hôte. Provisions as well astheir preparation were so bad that Sefer Pasha, an invalid, confined himself to a diet of potatoes and eggs. 

Add the quasi-impossibility of obtaining a bath; theuncleanliness of the offices; the hard narrowness of the sofas;the small basins, or rather bowls, and the tiny towels likenapkins; the clamorous pets of the small fry, cats and dogs; thecrowding of second-class passengers on the quarter-deck; and thenoise of the Armenian lady beating her maid, who objected to theprocess in truly dreadful language: throw in an engine which, despite the efforts of her energetic English engineer, Mr. Wilkinson, managed only nine instead of eleven and a half knotsan hour; an ugly north-easter off Cape Matapan, bringing tropicaldownfalls of rain; and a muggy Scirocco off Istria, when webreathed almost as much water as air: and I think that the shortentry in my journal, "horridly uncomfortable, " was to a certainextent justified by the conduct of the poor Austria. Yet theAustro-Hungarian Lloyd's boasts a dividend of seven per cent. Sheshall see no more of my money: until she mend her ways I shallprefer the Genoese Rubattino. 

But, as the Persian poet has it, Ín níz bug'zared--"Even thesethings pass away. " At Corfu we were cheered by once more meetingSir Charles Sebright, who looked hale and hearty as of yore. Whenwe reached Trieste, his Excellency Baron Pino von Friendenthall, accompanied by the most amiable of "better halves, " came off inhis galley, happily unconscious of typhus; and carried us awaywithout the usual troubles and delays of landing in harbourbumboats. Friendly faces smiled a welcome; and, after an absenceof some seven months, I found myself once more in the good townwhich has given us a home during the last five years. 

At Trieste I was delayed for some time, awaiting the report thatthe specimens collected by the Expedition had arrived at theirdestination, the warehouses of the London Docks. Mr. Clarke metwith obstacles at Suez; and, consequently, did not reach Englandtill June 20th, after twenty-three rough days. As her Majesty'sForeign Office had been pleased to accord me two months of leaveto England, I determined to make the voyage by "long sea. " Bothsuffering from the same complaint, want of rest and ofroast-beef, as opposed to rosbif, we resolved to ship on boardthe English steamer Hecla, of the B. And N. A. R. M. S. P. Company, the old Cunard line, famous for never having lost alife, a ship, or a letter. We left Trieste on July 7, 1878, incharge of our excellent commander, Captain James Brown; and, after a cruise of twenty days, viâ Venice, Palermo, andGibraltar--a comfortable, cheery, hygienic cruise in charmingweather over summer seas--we found ourselves once more (July26th) in the city of the Liver. 

 Appendix I. 

 DATES OF THE THREE JOURNEYS (Northern, Central, and Southern) made by the Second Khedivial Expedition. 

 First Journey. 

(December 19, 1877, to February 13, 1878. )

 December 6, 1877, left Cairo. 10 1877, left Suez. 14 1877, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr) on the "Day of 'Arafát. " * * * * * December 19, 1877, landed at El-Muwaylah. 21 1877, marched upon Wady Tiryam. 22 1877, marched upon Wady Sharmá. 23 1877, marched upon Jebel el-Abyaz. 30 1877, returned to Wady Sharmá. January 7, 1878, marched upon 'Aynúnah. 8 1878, halted at 'Aynúnah. 9 1878, halted at Wady el-'Usaylah. 10 1878, reached Magháir Shu'ayb. 25 1878, marched upon Makná. February 3 1878, embarked for the Marsá Dahab in the Sinaitic Peninsula. 4 1878, to the anchorage of El-Nuwaybi'. 5 1878, anchored at Pharaoh's Island. 6 1878, halted at Pharaoh's Island. 7 1878, steamed to El-'Akabah town. 8 1878, ran down Gulf el-'Akabah. 9 1878, anchored under Tírán Island. 10 1878, halted at Tírán Island. February 11, 1878, ran from wrecking to Sináfir Island. 12 1878, halted at Sinafir Island. 13 1878, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). 

 Second Journey. 

(February 17, 1878, to March 8, 1878. )

 February 17, 1878 walked to ruins of Abú Hawáwít. 18, , marched upon the Safh Jebel Malíh in the Wady Surr. 19, , camped in the Sayl Wady el-Jimm. 20, , marched upon El-Nagwah. 21, , reached the head of the Wady Sadr. 23, , camped below the Col, "El-Khuraytah. " 24, , reached the Hismá. 25, , descended the two Passes and camped in the "Jayb el-Khuraytah. " 26, , marched upon the Majrá el-Ruways. 27, ,, ,, Wady Damah. 28, ,, ,, ruins of Shuwák. March 1, , halted at the ruins of Shuwák. 2, , visited the ruins of Shaghab and camped at the Majrá el-Wághir. 3, , visited the ruins El-Khandakí and camped at the plain El-Kutayyifah. 4, , marched down the Wady Salmá and camped at the Má el-Badíah. 5, , reached Zibá town. 6, , halted at Zibá. 7, , visited the turquoise-diggings of Zibá and camped at the Máyat el-Ghál. 8, , returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). 

 Complementary Excursion to the Shárr Mountain. 

 March 13, 1878, camped in the Wady el-Káimah. 14, , camped in the Wady el-Kusayb. 15, , camped in the Safhat el-Wu'ayrah. 16, , up the Shárr. 17, , camped in the Wady Kuwayd. 18, , returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). 

 THIRD JOURNEY. 

March 21, 1878, to April 10, 1878. )

 March 21, 1878, left Sharm Yáhárr and made the Sharm Dumayghah. 22, , halted at El-Dumayghah. 23, , anchored in harbour of El-Wijh. 24, , set out in the Sinnár southwards. 25, , anchored at El-Haurá. 26, , halted at El-Haurá. 

(On March 26th MM. Marie and Philipin marched from El-Wijh to theWady Hamz, and rejoined head-quarters on the 28th. )

 March 27, 1878 returned to El-Wijh. 29, , left El-Wijh and camped at inner fort. 30, , to Umm el-Karáyát (ruins and mine). 31, , visited ruins of El-Kubbah; camped in Wady Dasnah. April 1, 1878 to Umm el-Haráb (ruins and mine). 2, , camped in the Wady Abá'l-Gezáz. 3, , camped in the plain of Badá. 4, , halted at the plain of Badá. 5, , camped at the Ayn el-Kurr. 6, , camped in the Wady Laylah. 7, , camped in the Wady Abá'l-'Ajáj. 8, , to the ruins of the Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd (classical temple). 9, , to the Abá'l-Marú (Marwah mine). 1O, , return to El-Wijh. 

THE RETURN TO EGYPT. 

 April 12, 1878 steamed northwards to Nu'man Island. 13, , reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). 18, , left El-Muwaylah, night at sea. 19, , in Gulf of Suez. 20, , reached Suez. 22, , reached Cairo. 

 Appendix II. 

EXPENSES OF THE EXPEDITION TO MIDIAN, commanded by Captain R. F. Burton, H. B. M. Consul, Trieste. 

Cairo, November 1, 1877. 

 Ł s. D. Sum received from Egyptian Finance 1977 12 0

Amounts Paid out by Order of Captain Burton. Ł s. D. 

Hotel bills for five persons (thirty-six days) 149 6 9Advanced to members of Expedition up to date (May 3rd)[EN#87] 74 12 3Cost of provisions for journey to Midian, fourteen persons 314 8 9Cost of tools, chemicals, instruments, canteen, etc. 185 19 0Medicine chest from Dr. Lowe 10 10 0

Journey to Suez from Cairo, December 6th, 1878:-- Hotel bill for eleven persons (three days) 33 3 6 Tobacco for presents to Bedawin 6 8 0 Sundries 13 10 6 Telegrams and post service 3 9 0 __________________ Ł791 7 9

El-Muwaylah, December 16th, to return, February 13th:-- Journey to north[EN#88] 316 14 3 Post service 14 8 0 Cost of sheep[EN#89] 32 14 0 Sundries[EN#90] 20 7 7 Five foot-soldiers' salaries 7 4 0

Eastern journey to the Hismá[EN#91] 187 6 6Post service 3 8 0Cost of sheep[EN#92] 11 19 0Sundries 5 11 0Sambúk from Suez, as per contract 9 4 0Soldiers from fort 3 0 0

Journey to Shárr[EN#93] 44 11 6Cost of sheep[EN#94] 3 4 0Thirty pairs of boots for soldiers[EN#95] 6 0 0Sundries 1 0 0Journey to south[EN#96] 92 13 0Cost of sheep[EN#97] 15 16 0Post service 2 0 0Sundries[EN#98] 18 3 6Special payments:-- Sayyid 'Abd el-Rahím Effendi 16 0 0 Bukhayt 1 12 0 Husayn 1 12 0 Shaykh Furayj 4 0 0 Shaykh Furayj salary for twenty-five days 5 0 0Expenses at Suez, unloading, etc. , and hotel bills for ten persons 39 17 0Post and telegrams 1 16 0Suez to Cairo 1 12 6 _________________ Ł1658 1 7

Expenses at Cairo up to date May 5, 1878:-- Unloading, cartage, and preparing for Exhibition 24 5 5Salaries of persons engaged from Cairo and Muwaylah:-- Anton Dimitri, Giorgi, and Petro[EN#99] 93 17 6 Magazine-man at El-Muwaylah[EN#100] 6 8 0 Sais from Suez, engaged through governor[EN#101] 9 0 0 Mr. Clarke's salary[EN#102] 180 0 0 _________________ Ł1971 12 6In hand for small expenses not yet sent in for payment 5 19 6 _________________ Ł1977 12 0 _________________Sent in May 6, 1878. 

(Signed) CHAS. CLARKE. (Countersigned) RICHARD F. BURTON. Commanding Expedition. 

 Appendix III. PRESERVED PROVISIONS AND OTHER STORES, supplied by Messrs. Voltéra Bros. , of the Ezbekiyyah, Cairo. 

 Ł s. D. 95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7670 okes best rice, at 8 1/2d. 23 14 7152 okes sugar, at 11 1/2d. Per kilog. 8 19 6 1/260 okes ground coffee, at 4s. 6d. 13 10 0120 tins milk, at 14s. 7 0 0120 bottles pickles 6 0 015 tins butter (of 1 lb. ), at 2s. 6d. 1 17 660 okes oil, at 2s. 6d. 7 10 06 heads English cheese (60 1/4 lbs. ) at 1s. 5d. 4 10 4 1/2160 okes dried French beans, at 10d. 6 13 460 okes maccaroni and paste 3 0 054 okes onions, at 7d. 1 11 610 okes garlic, at 10d. 0 8 450 packets candles 2 10 05 okes cavendish tobacco, at 12s. 3 0 06 okes tobacco (Turkish), at 24s. 7 4 0120 bottles soda-water, at 8d. Per dozen 4 0 020 bottles syrups, at 2s. 2 0 050 bottles vinegar 2 10 010 dozen beer, at 11s. 5 10 015 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 1 2 620 pots mustard, at 1s. 6d. 1 10 06 bottles curry, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 020 lbs. Table raisins 0 16 010 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 1 0 0 _________________ Ł118 6 3

10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 05 large packets salt at 1s. 6d. 0 7 66 bottles sauces, at s. 12d. 0 7 012 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 1 10 012 umbrellas, at 4s. 2 8 012 bottles blacking, at 1s. (for tracing inscriptions) 0 12 06 lanterns, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 012 large tins sardines, at 1s. 6d. 0 18 02 corkscrews, at 1s. 3d. 0 2 62 opening knives 0 2 0101 1/4 okes of biscuits, at 1s. 5 1 31 case Mumm's champagne 4 5 01 case cognac, XX 2 8 01 case whisky 1 16 01 tin plum-pudding 0 2 610 packets matches, at 1s. 2d. 0 11 88 barrels flour, at L3 24 0 04 okes Curani (Kora'ni) tobacco, at 16s. 3 4 030 lbs. Tea, at 4s. 6 0 024 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 4 018 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 18 018 tins haricots flageolets, at 1s. 0 18 018 tins champignons, at 1s. 2d. 1 1 018 tins macedoine, at 1s. 0 18 08 tins carrots, at 1s. 0 8 016 tins asparagus (large), at 3s. 2 8 053 1/2 lbs. Ham, at 1s. 6d. 4 0 3100 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 10 0 0100 tins meats, at 1s. 6d. 7 10 04 dozen pints beer, at 8s. 1 12 07 empty tins for coffee, at 1s. 6d. 0 10 617 empty bags 0 14 24 okes packing rope, at 2s. 0 8 01/4 okes isinglass 0 3 02 bottles spices 0 2 010 nutmegs 0 1 0 _________________ Ł205 16 7

 Ł s. D. 1 packet starch 0 3 01 oke twine 0 2 62 okes nails, at 10d. 0 1 81 box cigarette papers 0 8 0 Kitchen utensils 0 13 6 Empty bags 0 2 0 Packing 2 10 0 _________________ Total Ł209 17 3 _________________

 Additional Supplies. 

 Ł s. D. 50 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 5 0 095 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 716 lbs. Tea, at 4s. 3 4 050 tins preserved meats, at 1s. 6d. 3 15 020 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 0 012 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 12 012 tins champignon, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 06 tins first size asparagus, at 4s. 1 4 010 tins butter (1 lb. ), at 2s. 8d 1 6 836 lbs. English cheese, at 1s. 6d. 2 14 060 okes maccaroni 3 0 0126 okes onions, at 7d. 3 13 620 packets candles 1 0 050 boxes matches, at 1s. 2d. Doz. 0 5 05 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 0 7 612 bottles sauces, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 06 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 0 12 010 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 05 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 0 12 6108 okes hard biscuits, at 1s. 5 8 02 1/2 okes snuff 2 10 016 lbs. Ginger-root, at 1s. 6d. 1 4 02 doz. Whisky, at 36s. 3 12 02 doz. Martel's cognac 4 4 06 bottles absinthe, 2s. 6d. 0 15 0 _________________ Ł49 16 9

5 bottles Oxley's essence of ginger, at 4s. 1 0 05 bottles pyretic saline, at 3s. 6d. 0 17 63 boxes seidlitz powders, at 2s. 0 6 01 bottle aconite 0 2 64 iron tea and coffee kettles 1 14 02 empty tins for tea 0 3 0 Packing 1 10 0 Carts, 2s. ; railway fare, 82s. 4 4 0 _________________ Total Ł59 13 9

 APPENDIX IV. BOTANY AND LIST OF INSECTS. 

SECTION I. 

PROFESSOR D. OLIVER'S LIST OF DRIED PLANTS presented by CaptainBurton to the Herbarium, Royal Gardens, Kew, September, 1878. 

 Núman North Middle South Isle. Midian. Midian. Midian. 

Anastatica hierochuntina, L. Kaff maryam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Morettia parviflora, Boiss. Eaten by cattle. Thagar; Gaf'aa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I IMatthiola oxyceras, DC. Forma gracilis. Animals eat. Hazá; Muhawwil . . . . . - - I -Malcolmia aegyptiaca, Spr. Animals eat. Tarbeh . . . . . . - I - -Zilla myagroides, F. Silla. Camels eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Biscutella Columnae, Ten . . . . - - I -Diplotaxis Harra? Hárrah. Eaten by cattle. . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Diplotaxis acris, Boiss. (Moricandia crassifolia, Gay) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Sisymbrium erysimoides, Desf. Salih. Eaten by camels and sheep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I IFarsetia Burtonae, Oliv. Sp. Nov. Ghurayrá . . . . . . . . - I I -Schimpera arabica, H. And St. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Enarthrocarpus lyratus, F. , vel E. Strangulatus, Boiss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Capparis Sodada, Br. (Sodada decidua, Forsk. ). Tanzub. Red berries eaten. . . . . . . . . - - - ICleome chrysantha, Dcne. Mashteh. Pounded and drank for worms, etc. . . . . . - - - ICleome arabica, L. 'Ubaysd. Eaten by animals. . . . . . . . . . - - - IPapaver Decaisnei, H. And St. - - I -Ochradenus baccatus, Del. Gurzi. A large tree; eaten by cattle . . . . . . . . . . . - I - IReseda (Caylusea) canescens, L. Zanabán. Eaten by cattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I -Reseda, an R. Stenostachya(?), Boiss. Khizám. Eaten by animals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Helianthemum Lippii, Pers. Kazim. Cattle eat. . . . . . . . . - - I -Silene villosa, Forsk. 'Abaysá. Too much coated with sand to serve as food for animals . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Gypsophila Rokejeka, Del. . . . - - I -Polycarpaea fragilis, Del. Makr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I - - -Portulaca oleracea, L. . . . . . . - - - IHibiscus micranthus, L. Fil. Forma. Khusiyat Ráshid. Eaten by animals. . . . . . . . . . - - I IAbutilon fruticosum, G. And P. (Sida denticulata, Fres. ). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IAbutilon muticum, Don . . . . . . . - - - IErodium laciniatum, Cav. Garná. Eaten by cattle . . . - I I IMonsonia nivea, Gay . . . . . . . . . - I - -Geranium mascatense, Boiss. Hiláwá. Eaten by man and beast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Erodium cicutarium, L. . . . . . . - I - -Tribulus terrestris, L. Katbeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I IZygophyllum simplex, L. . . . . . - - I -Zygophyllum album, L. Gallúm. Camels eat. . . . . . . I - - -Zygophyllum coccineum, L. Forma (Z. Propinqiuum, Dcne. ). Muráká. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Fagonia cretica, L. Van (F. Glutinosa, Del. ). Shikáá (North Midian); Darmeh (Núman) . . . . . . . . . . . I I - -Fagonia mollis, Del. Warágá; and young plant of same = Zarag. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I -Fagonia Bruguieri, DC. Jamdeh. Animals eat. . . . . . . - I - -Dodonmaea viscosa, L. Var. (D. Arabica, H. And St. ). Athab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Rhus oxyacanthoides, Dum. 'Ar'ar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Neurada procumbens, L. Sáadán. Eaten by man and beast. Mountain region. . . . - I - ITrianthema pentandra, L. . . . . - - - ITrianthema(?). (Imperfect specimen. ) Rumayh. Eaten by sheep and cattle. . . . . . . . . . - - - IAizoon canariense, L. Dááá. Grain pounded and eaten. . . - - - IGisekia pharnaceoides, L. . . . - I - -Cucumis prophetarum, L. Locality mislaid. . . . . . . . . . Cotyledon umbilicus, L. Forma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Pimpinella arabica, Boiss. Rujaylet el-Ghuráb (Little Crow's-foot). Sheep eat. Locality astray. . . . . . . . . . . Pimpinella (Tragium palmetorum? St. And H. ). Very young. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I -Ferula (? sp. , leaf only). Kalkh. Animals eat. High up on SHÁRR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Grammosciadium scandicinum, Boiss. Sp. Nov. . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I IMedicago laciniata, All. . . . . . - - I -Taverniera aegyptiaca, Boiss. (ex descr. ). Shibrig. Eaten by animals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I - - -Indigofera spinosa, Forsk. Shibrig. Camels eat. Good fodder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IIndigofera paucifolia, D. . . . . - I - -Indigofera (stunted specimen, may be I. Paucifolia). 'Afar. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . - I - -Tephrosia Apollinea, DC. Dalsam; Táwil. Animals eat. - I I IGenista (Retama) monosperma, Del. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Lotononis Leobordea, Bth. Hurbat. Eaten by cattle. . . . - I I -Trigonella stellata, Forsk. (T. Microcarpa, Fres. ) . . . . . - I I -Onobrychis(?), possibly O. Ptolemaica. (Barren specimen). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Astragalus sparsus(?), Dcne. . - I - -Astragalus Sieberi, DC. Ghákeh. Dry and pounded root mixed with clarified butter. Drunk as a restorative. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - IAstragalus Forskahlei, Boiss. Kidád. Camels eat. . . . . . . . . - I - -Cassia obovata, Coll. Senna . . - I I IIphiona scabra, DC. Zafrah. Camels eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Pulicaria undulata, DC. Rabul. Fine perfume. . . . . . . . - I - -Blumea Bovei, DC. (B. Abyssinica, Sch. ) . . . . . . - I - IIfloga spicata, Forsk. Zenaymeh. Animals eat. . . . . . - - - IAsteriscus pygmaeus, C. And Dur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IAnvillaea Garcini, DC. (fide Boissier). Nukud. Eaten by camels and sheep. . - - I -Anthemis, an A. Deserti(?), Boiss. Gahwán. Camels eat: also called Gurrays, pounded and eaten with dates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I IMatricaria (Chamaemelum) auriculata (Boiss. ) . . . . . . . . - - I -Senecio Decaisnei, DC. Umm lewinayn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I ISenecio coronopifolius, Desf. - I I -Calendula aegyptiaca, Desf. . - - I -Calendula aegyptiaca(?) . . . . . - I - -Calendula, an var. Aegyptiacae(?) . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IEchinops spinosus, L. Akhshir. Eaten by camels, sheep, and asses. . . . . . . . . . - - I IZoegea purpurea, Fres. Rubayyán. Cattle eat. . . . . - - I -Centaurea sinaica, DC. Yemrár. Eaten by sheep, asses, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - IPicridium tingitanum, Desf. Forma. Huwwá; Tiz el-Kalbeh; El-Haudán. Eaten by man and animals. . - I I IUrospermum picroides, Desf. . - I - -Microrhynchus nudicaulis, Less. 'Azid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I - I IPterotheca bifida, F. And M. - I I -Picris, conf. P. Saha*ae, C. And K. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IPicris cyanocarpa, Boiss. . . . - - I -Callipeltis cucullaria, Stev. 'Ikrish. Cattle eat. North or Central Midian. Crucianella membranacea, Boiss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Galium capillare, Dcne . . . . . - - I -Salvadora persica, L. El-Arák . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - IRhazya stricta, Dcne. Harjal. Eaten only by mules. Very fragrant. . . . . - I - -Daemia cordata, R. Br. . . . . . - - I -Steinheilia radians, Dcne. Faká . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Convolvulus Hystrix, V. Shibrim. Root used as a purgative. Animals eat upper part of plant. . . . . - - - ICuscuta, conf. C. Brevistyla, A. Br. . . . - - I -Withania somnifera, Dun. Shajarat el-Dib . . . . . . . . . - I - -Lycium europaeum, L. 'Aushaz. Eaten by animals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I ISolanum coagulans(?), Forsk. Var. (A small fragment only). . . . . . . . . . - - I -Hyoscyamus pusillus, L. Saykrán . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I -Heliotropium arbainense, Fres. Rahháb. Cattle eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I -Trichodesma africanum, R. Br. Ahmim. Camels and other animals eat. . . . . . . - - I -Echium longifolium(?), Del. Kahlá. Animals eat. . . . . - - I -Anchusa Milleri, W. . . . . . . . - - I -Anchusa Milleri(?) young specimens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Anchusa Milleri(?) young specimens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Gastrocotyle (Anchusa hispida, Forsk. ). Karir. Camels eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IArnebia hispidissima, A. DC. Fayná. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I -Lithospermum callosum, V. . - I - -Lindenbergia sinaica, Bth. Mallih. Cattle eat. - - - IVerbascum (in bud), an V. Sinaiticum(?), Bth. . - - - IVerbascum, sp. Nov. Sammá - - I -Herpestis Monniera, Kth. Nafal. Animals eat. - I - -Veronica Anagallis, L. . . . - - - ILinaria aegyptiaca, Dum. . - I - -Linaria macilenta, Dcne. Zuraymat el-Himar. Eaten by animals. . . . . . . - - I -Linaria (*§ Elatinoides), sp. Imperfect. . . . . . . . . . - - I -Linaria simplex(?), DC. . . - I I -Linaria Haelava Chav. (fide Boissier) . . . . . . . . - I - -Blepharis edulis, Pers. (Acanthodium spicatum, Del. ). Shauk el-Jemel. Camels fond of it. . . . . . - I - ILavandula coronopifolia, Poir. Zayteh. All animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . - I I -Mentha lavandulacea, W. Habag. Animals do not eat. Pounded and mixed with fresh dates, "good for stomach". . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Salvia aegyptiaca, L. . . . . - I - -Salvia deserti, Dcne. . . . . - - I -Salvia, an S. Deserti(?). Jáadeh. Pounded in water and snuffed up nose. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Otostegia, var. O. Scariosae(?), Bth. (vel O. Repanda, Bth. ) Ghasseh. Sheep eat. . . . . - - I IStatice axillaris, Forsk. Annúm. Camels eat. . . . . - I - IPlantago Psyllium, L. Nez'i'ah. Animals eat. . - I I -Plantago amplexicaulis, Cav. Yanameh. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Aerwa javanica, Jass. Rayl. Cattle eat. . . . . . . - I - IChenopodium murale, L. ? . . - I - -Chenopodium murale, L. ? (Small seedlings. ) Nafal. Cattle eat. . . . . . - - - IAtriplex dimorphostegia? K. And K. Roghol. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Echinopsilon lanatum, Moq. Garay'á. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - ISuaeda sp. (?). (Small fragment. ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Suaeda sp. (?). (Barren fragments, insect punctured?) 'Aslá. Forage plant. . . . . . . . . . . . I - I -Suaeda monoica? Forsk. Zuraygá. Forage plant. . I - - -Salsola(?), cf. S. Longifolia, F. Hamz. Camels eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . I - - -Caroxylon(?) (barren specimen), near C. , foetidum. Akahrit. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . I - - -Rumex vesicarius, L. (R. Roseus, Del. ). Hammáz. Animals eat. . . . - - I -Emex spinosus, Camp. . . . . . . - I - -Crozophora tinctoria, Juss. Hinaydieh. Not eaten. . . . - - - IEuphorbia cornuta, Pers. 'Atir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Euphorbia scordifolia, Jacq. Gharghir. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Euphorbia (Anisophyllum) granulata, Schf. Rugaygeh. Animals eat. . . - - - IEuphorbia (Anisophyllum) granulata, forma(?). Lubayneh. Cattle eat. . . . - - - IJuniperus phoenicea, L. At four thousand feet on Sharr. Trunk thicker than a man's body. Halibeh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Parietaria alsinifolia, Del. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - I -Forskahlea tenacissima, L. Lissák. Animals eat. . . . - - I -Asphodelus fistulosus, L. (var. Tenuifolius, Bker. ). Bo'rak. Only eaten by animals when very hungry. Asses eat. . - I I -Bellevalia flexuosa, Boiss. - I - -Dipcadi erythraeum, Webb . . - I - -Gagea reticulata, R. And S. - I - -Juncus maritimus, L. . . . . . . - - - IScirpus Holoschoenus, L. Namas. Sent to Egypt for mats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - ICyperus conglomeratus, Rottb. (Young specimens) - I - -Chloris villosa, Pers. . . . . - - I -AEluropus repens . . . . . . . . . . - I - -Tricholaena micrantha, Schrad. Ghazuiar. Eaten by camels, etc. . . . . . . . . . - - I IPanicum turgidum, Forsk. Zarram. Good fodder. . . . . - I - IArundo Donax, L. Kasbá . . . - I - -Polypogon monspeliensis, Desf. Kháfúr. Sheep eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IStipa tortilis, Desf. Pehmeh. Animals eat. . . . . - I I IAristida caerulescens, Desf. Shárib el-Kale. Animals eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . - I I -Hordeum maritimum, L. . . . . . - I - -Pappophorum, an P. Phleoides(?), R. And S. Nejil. Sheep eat. . . . . . . . - - - IBarren specimen. Indeterminable. Grass . . . - I - -Grass(?). Root and leaves. Hashmil. Animals eat. . . . I - - -Typha(?). Root and fragments of leaves. Birdi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IGrass. Fragmentary. Záeh. Cattle eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - IChara foetida, Braun. 'Ishnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - I - -A barren fragment of undershrub, with opposite fleshy leaves with recurved margins. Ajid. Eaten by animals. Doubtful. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I - - -

D. OLIVER. 

SECTION II. 

The spirit-specimens submitted to Mr. William Carruthers, of theBritish Museum, are described by him as follows:--

1. Phallus impudicus, Linn. (in Arab. Faswat el-'Ajúz). The common"stinkhorn, " extremely common in some districts of England, and obtrudingon the notice of every one from its detestable odour. It is widelydistributed over America and Africa, as well as Europe, but I find norecord of its occurring in Asia. 

2. Tulostoma mammosum, Fr. Also British, but not so common. Widelydistributed. 

3. Phelipoea lutea, Desf. A dark, fleshy broom-rape, with scaly leaves. Wehave one species of the same genus in England. They are parasitic onthe roots of plants; and the Midianite species, which is found in NorthAfrica, Egypt, and Arabia, grows on the roots of a Chenopodium. 

4. Cynomorium coccineum, Mich. A fleshy, leafless plant, also a root-parasite. It was called by old writers Fungus Melitensis, and was of muchrepute in medicine. It is known from the Himalayas to the CanaryIslands, and is said by Webb, in his history of the Canaries, to be eaten inthe Island of Lancerotte. 

5. Doemia cordata, R. Br. A spiny shrub, with roundish leaves and smallsharp-pointed fruit, found in Egypt and Arabia. 

6. Capparis galeata, Fres. , with large fruit, long and pear-shaped. Thiscaper is well known; from Syria and Egypt. 

(Signed) W. CARRUTHERS. 

INSECTS COLLECTED IN MIDIAN BY CAPTAIN BURTON. (Identified by Mr. Frederick Smith, of the British Museum. )

COLEOPTERA. 

Geodephaga

l. Anthia 12 guttata. 

Melolonthidoe. 

2. Schizonycha reflexa. 3. Pachydema. 

Dynastidoe. 

4. Heteronychus. 

Curculionidoe. 

5. Cleonus arabs. 

Heteromera. 

6. Mesostenanear punctipennis. 7. Adesmia. 8. Akis Goryi?9. Mylabris. 

Hemiptera. 

10. Nepa rubra. 

Mantidoe. 

11. Eremiaphila arenaria. 12. Blepharis mendica. 

Orthoptera. 

13. Acocera. 14. Acridium peregrinum. 15. Poecilocera bufonia. 

Scorpionidea. 

16. Androctonus funestus. 17. " leptochelys. 18. " quinquestriatus. 

Arachnida. 

19. Galeodes arabs, in spirit. 20. Clubiona Listeri, in spirit. 

(Signed) FREDK. SMITH. 

 APPENDIX V. 

METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL(December 19, 1877, to April 17, 1878). 

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES ON TRAVELLING IN MIDIAN. 

Midian follows the rule of Syria--travel in the spring. The best time on theseaboard is during the months of March, April, and May. In the mountains andthe Hismá plateau, April, May, and June are the most favourable. In Syria(Damascus) the autumn is dangerous: the finest travelling weather is in Marchto May. The second best season is between October and December. 

January and February are cold; the latter also (sometimes) rainy. 

March is stormy at first (El-'Uwweh), but afterwards gets warmer (El-Ni'ám). Dews now begin, and last some three months: they wet everything like a sharpshower, and make the air feel soppy. 

In July the first dates come in. Fevers are prevalent during this month, andalso during August and September. 

October is a month of heat and drought. 

In November the first cold occurs. 

December is the coldest month. 

NOTES on TRAVELLING IN LOWER EGYPT. 

September is very bad--all should escape who can. Fruits everywhere; sun hot;air damp with irrigation water, white fogs and other horrors. 

October is a good month, the weather being neither too hot nor toocold. 

November is the month of the "second water" irrigation about Cairo. 

December is pleasant. 

January is cold and sometimes wet. 

February is stormy, and even foggy with sand-mist. 

March is windy, but on the whole a good month, except for Khamsin, whichbegins about March 20th. 

April begins to feel warm (April 29, 1878, Shamm el-Nasim). 

The winter presents a marvellous contrast to that of England, whichcan often show one hour and five minutes' sunlight in the twenty-four, or2. 8 per cent. Of its possible duration. 

THE TIDES

In El-'Akabah are like Suez: first of month, flood, 6--12 a. M. And p. M. ; ebb, the rest. But at Suez the tides rise one metre, and at times two metres; atEl-'Akabah (February 7), one foot. 

For the instruments NOT used in this Expedition, see Chap. I. P. 11. 

The barometre aneroid sold by M. Ebner was partially repaired by M. Lacaze, and served for Mr. David Duguid's observations. 

My pocket set by Casella (maker to the Admiralty and Ordnance)consisted of--

One watch aneroid (compensated, 1182). Two sets wet and dry bulb thermometers (one broken). One set maxima and minima thermometers, Nos. 12, 877 and 12, 906. Two pocket hygrometers not numbered. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING FIRST MARCH BETWEEN DECEMBER19, 1877, AND FEBRUARY 18, 1878

December 19, 1877, compared ship's (Mukhbir) mercurial barometer, 758millimetres, with my aneroid by Casella (29. 85) = 765 millimetres; differenceinship's, + 007 millimetre. 

January 31, 1878, returned on board Mukhbir at Makná. Ship's mercurialbarometer, 773 millimetres; my aneroid by Casella, 764 millimetres; differencein ship's, + 009 millimetre. 

Date. Time. Aneroid Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. Inches. Milli. (deg. )Bulb. Bulb. (deg. )

Dec. 19. 7a. M. 29. 85 765 76 - - 58 On deck of gunboat Mukhbir, at Sharm Yahárr, steaming to El- Muwaylah. Morning ugly. Strong land-breeze, turned to Azyab ("south- easter"). Waves rising. Dark-blue clouds to windward. 

 Noon. 29. 80 757 77 - - 54 In big tent on shore, open east and west. Wind high. Everything feels damp; looks gloomy; mountains almost hidden by clouds. Landscape that of Europe. No sun nor sunshine all day. 

 3p. M. 29. 09 - 86 - - 51 In my small tent. Clearing to windward (north). Wind veering to north. Moon nearly full. High fleecy clouds. Sea high. No sun all day. 

Azyab (the wet wind) generally lasts two or three days; veers round by west tonorth. Much rain has already fallen (Arab lies). Land green (all brown); grassplentiful (not a blade to be seen). Rains here December 15th to February 15th;downfall one hour to four hours, then clears. On December 8th, violent rainfor one hour; filled all the torrents (Sayl). 

Dec. 20. 7a. M. 29. 80 758 63 - - 40 In small tent open to east. Morning clear. Few fleecy clouds: cool and bright. "Misri" from north-west; cold and rain. 

 3p. M. 29. 92 759 78 - - 32 Hot in tents, cool in breeze. "Misri" high and strong sea. At 1. 10 p. M. Heavy clouds; expected rain--few heavy drops. 

AT EL-MUWAYLAH AND RAS WADY TIRYAM. 

Dec. 21. 6. 35a. M. 30. 02 763 71 - - 35 Inside tent. Full moon and clear. Dawn, 6 a. M. ; night, 6. 30. Speckled clouds. 

 Noon. 30. 48 764 76 - - 48 Under umbrella. Air clear. Mottled clouds on mountains. Sea horizon. Low white bank of clouds. 

 3p. M. 30. 05 763 77 - - 39 "Misri. " High cirri from west. Big black cloud over sea. Suspected rain: Arabs said no. Cloud dispersed. 

AT RAS WADY TIRYAM. 

Dec. 22. 7a. M. 30. 01 760 57 - - 32 Cold night. Clear morning. Cold sunrise. Dry north-wester. Instruments on paper, resting on the sand. Very dry. 

 Noon. 30. 14 - 82 - - 22 Very dry. Straight streaks of cirri everywhere. 

 4p. M. 30. 00 763 72 - - 17 At Wady Sharmá, on sand protected from west wind. Bright moon, showed halo. 

Kayhak 14 begins the Coptic winter, properly speaking evening of 13th; aftersunset 1 hour 51 minutes. Sea-breeze and land-winds regular to-day andthroughout the month. 

AT WADY SHARMÁ. 

Dec. 23. 7a. M. 29. 90 760 58 - - 19 Instruments on box standing on sand. Moon with halo at night. Red sunrise, grey clouds. Mountains blue-grey, brightly defined. Before dawn moon two halos, large and small. Fleecy clouds. Nine a. M. Clear, sun hot. 

 2. 30p. M. 29. 15 740 78 - - 25 Under rock in upper Wady Sharmá. Streaky cirri. Sun hot; air cool. Little sea-breeze, kept off by hills. 

Arrived at the "White Mountain, " and stayed there a week. 

 4p. M. 29. 12 740 75 - - 28 At Jebel el-Abyaz, on box behind tent sheltered from wind. Air quite still; streaky cirri. Camp Jebel el- Abyaz, say, 800 feet above sea. Felt very dry. 

AT JEBEL EL-ABYAZ. 

Dec. 24 7a. M. 29. 10 738 61 - - 29 In mess tent on mess table. Cold. Mottled clouds east and zenith. Grey bank to sea reddened by sunrise, like storm clouds. Rain here from Azyab ("south- east"). Sunrise at Cairo, 6. 55 a. M. 

 Noon. 29. 00 737 64 63 55 33 Suspended instruments. Grey day: cold breeze from east. Cold comes only from wind; when no breeze, very mild. Getting greyer and colder. Very like rain-- heavey clouds. 

 3. 10p. M. 29. 00 737 64 64 52 28 Wind west, cold and raw. Air grey and cold. Evening cold; clouds dispersed, sun came out. Wind to west, inclining to north. 

Small thermometer shows higher than Casellás because in brass case; not sowell exposed to air. 

Dec. 25. 7a. M. 29. 10 739 50 50 45 29 Morning cool and clear. 

 Noon. 29. 20 - 72 68 55 21 Very clear, still, and hot. Slight breeze from sea (west). Sun strong. Swarms of flies. Dry bulb in sun, 73 degrees; wet, 60 degrees. 

 3p. M. 29. 16 741 72 69 54 15 Cool and gentle breeze from sea, dispersing the swarms of flies. At times "sand-devil" from north-west. 

All this day's observations taken on writing table in large tent. Night cold:cold severest after two a. M. And before sunrise. Sky at night perfectly clear. Wind from north turning to east, a Barri ("land-breeze"). Height of Jebel el-Abyaz above tents, by aneroid = 350 feet (29. 20 - 28. 85 = 0. 35). 

Dec. 26. 7. 15a. M. 29. 21 743 48 46 43 22 In tent. Sky perfectly clear. 

 Noon. 29. 26 - 76 77 55 6 Sun very hot. Air quite still. Fleecy clouds from west over the sun. 

 4. 45p. M. 29. 23 743 73 69 55 8 Sun cooler. Air perfectly clear. 

Dec. 27. 7a. M. 29. 16 740 50 49 43 5 3 In tent. Morning cold and clear: few flecks of cloud to east. Air feels intensely dry. 

 12. 30p. M. 29. 23 743 77 74 58 9 Fine cirri high up. Sky blue. Sun veiled at times. Very little wind, a breath from north. 

 3. 20p. M. 59. 16 742 80 77 56 6 Sky with filmy white clouds, thicker at west. Sun hidden; very hot at noon (rain-sun?). Not a breath of air. Sense of intense dryness. Ink evaporates at once. Cool breeze started up shortly after 3. 30 p. M. From west, then clouds thickened. Thermometer fell 4 degrees. 

Cool evening; quite clear. Fevers and feverish colds begin to show themselvesin camp. Minimum thermometer during night--No. 1, 45 degrees; No. 2, 46degrees; French, 15-1/2 degrees (Centigrade). 

Dec. 28 7a. M. 29. 10 739 55 53 46 10 In tent. Still. Neither warm nor cold. Mottled clouds. 

 Noon. 29. 13 740 78 72 58 4 Clouds thin. Sun very hot (rain-sun?). Light breeze from north-west. 

 3p. M. 29. 10 739 79 72 58 - Feels intensely dry. Hot, close. Heavy clouds, and purple to west. Gusts from west. 

No wind. Morning and evening very mild. At eight p. M. Dark cloud moving fromsouth-west to mountains. Drops of rain; then stars. Minimum thermometersduring night, both 48 degrees. None of the maximum will act. 

Dec. 29. 7a. M. 29. 10 738 58 58 54 9 In tent. Cool, clear. Blue-pink in west. Light sea-breezes from west. Must be awfully hot in summer. In closed tent at eleven a. M. , 92 degrees. 

 Noon. 29. 13 - 77 75 60 10 Nice breeze from sea (west), bending to north. 

 4p. M. 29. 00 739 82 79 59 5 Warm and quite still. 

Mean of nineteen aneroid observations at Jebel el-Abyaz = 29. 13. 

MARCH FROM JEBEL EL-ABYAZ TO WADY SHARMÁ. 

Dec. 30. 7a. M. 29. 10 739 56 - - 7 Clear, still. No speck of cloud. Moon Náim (sleeping = *[figure]). 

 5p. M. 29. 88 758 66 - - 8 Air quite clear. Camped at Sharmá. Change to shore pleasant and soft. 

Noon on journey; sun very hot. Evening still. Violent weather at night; coldand comfortless. Abated somewhat after sunrise. 

AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH. 

Dec. 31. 7a. M. 29. 88 758 59 - - 7 Wind cold and dusty. Sky perfectly clear. A few light mist-clouds on mountain-wall. 

 Noon. 29. 94 760 75 73 58 6 Wind still. Sun much warmer. 

 3p. M. 29. 90 - 74 71 58 3 Wind cool; some dust. 

Clouds about sunset sailing out of Suez Gulf, forming archipelago of skyislets. Dark bank to south. Minimum thermometer at night = 42 degrees. 

AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH (about 100 feetabove sea-level). 

Jan. 1. 7a. M. 29. 90 759 53 50 45 10 Clear, fine, quite still. Nice breeze began about nine a. M. 

 Noon. 29. 97 - 71 69 57 4 Cold. North wind high. Light clouds to west; the rest clear. 

 3p. M. 29. 94 760 73 72 61 4 Clouds to west from Suez sea. 

High wind fell before midnight. Cold--sat in tent. Flies troublesomeeverywhere. Minimum at night, 42-43 degrees. 

AT WADY SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT. 

Jan 2. 7a. M. 29. 98 761 53 - - 10

 3p. M. 30. 00 762 76 72 58 3 Cool breeze from north. No signs of clouds. Sun hot and air cool. 

Evening no wind, no clouds. At night high cold wind from east, seems to pierceclothes. Lasted till morning and sun well up. Minimum thermometer, No. 1 = 45degrees; No. 2 = 46 degrees. 

Jan. 3. 7a. M. 29. 92 760 58 57 47 3 Dawn comfortless. Cold. Fire in tent. Sand blowing. Air highly electrical. 

 Noon. 29. 90 762 77 76 61 2 Wind still. Hot sun. 

 3p. M. 29. 91 759 76 74 58 4 Hot sun. Gentle breeze. Warm in tent. 

Night very cold. Minimum thermometers, No. 1 = 40 degrees; No. 2 = 41 degrees. 

Jan. 4. " 29. 83 - 52 50 - 5

 Noon. 29. 93 760 81 80 60 3 Decidedly hot. No breeze. 

 3p. M. 29. 90 - 78 75 63 0 Very hot and still. 

In evening few fleecy clouds to south-west. Appearance of Azyab. Minimumthermometers at night, No. 1 = 36 degrees; No. 2 = 38 degrees. 

AT WADY SHARMÁ. 

Jan. 5. 7a. M. 29. 90 - 48 45 43 6 Pink clouds south-west and south-east. Cirri everywhere. 

 Noon. 29. 87 761 79 79 67 3 Hot and still. Clear; few cirri. 

 3p. M. 29. 96 760 74 71 60 0 Cool wind. Cold in shade. Cirri to south, at times over the sun. 

Very cold at night. Saw new moon; set in fire. Planets veiled in mist. MoonKáim (points upwards = *[figure]). 

Jan. 6. 7. 20a. M. 29. 94 760 53 51 46 8 Still, clear. Light breeze about 10. 30 a. M. 

 Noon. 29. 80 761 82 - - 4

 4p. M. 29. 96 761 76 - - 3 Clear and hot. Sunset, red cirri. Water very cold. Moon clear. 

Jan. 7 " 29. 98 758 52 - - 18 At Sharmá. Cool and raw. Few clouds to south and south-west. 

 Noon. 30. 08 764 78 - - 26 At 'Aynúnah, in big tent. Fresh wind from north. Air much damper; more pleasant. 

AT 'AYNÚNAH. 

Jan. 8. 7a. M. 30. 11 763 55 - - 22 Morning still--windless Breath from east. Warm and pleasant. 

 Noon. 30. 02 767 77 74 61 13 Quite clear and dry. Gusts of wind. Flies very bad, even in the waste. 

 3p. M. 30. 15 767 77 76 63 7

Cold high wind at night. 

LEFT 'AYNÚNAH. 

Jan. 9. 7a. M. 30. 04 - 63 - - 10 Outside tent. Light clouds everywhere at dawn. Morning warm and close. 

 Noon. 29. 91 759 80 - - 48 At El-'Usaylah. Sky covered with clouds. Sun coming out. 

 4p. M. 29. 87 758 53 - - 23 In tent at El-'Usaylah. No wind. 

Cool pleasant night. Rain in Mount Sinai(?). 

Jan. 10. 6. 45a. M. 29. 85 - 56 - - 15 Observations in open. Cold north wind. Clear and cirri. 

 3p. M. 29. 30 745 77 - - 1 At Magháir Shúayb, under a tree. 

Night cold. High wind; shook the tents. 

AT MAGHÁIR SHÚAYB. 

Jan. 11. 7a. M. 29. 37 747 60 - - 20 In open, on box. 

 Noon. 29. 40 748 82 - - 8 In tent. 

 3p. M. 29. 38 747 84 - - -4 Still. Air hot. 

As a rule, at Magháir Shúayb we had land-breezes; cold from north and east. Seabreezes during day, after noon. 

Jan. 12. 7a. M. 29. 35 746 59 - - 3 In tent. Cool. Cirri. At two a. M. Cool fresh wind from north. 

 Noon. 29. 46 747 83 - - -5 In tent. Hot sun. Light clouds. 

 3p. M 29. 30 746 83 81 64 -9 In tent. No sun, no wind. Thin clouds. 

Night warm; wind towards morning. Mosquitoes in tamarisks of Wady. Minimumthermometer, 52 degrees. 

Jan. 13. 7a. M. 29. 38 745 65 - - -4 Outside tent, on box. Cloudy; little wind. Elt warm. Sun came out strong at ten a. M. 

 Noon. 29. 27 744 87 87 67 -9 In big tent. Heat like summer. Flies troublesome, travel on our backs. 

 3p. M. 29. 20 743 85 85 65 -15 Very hot. Thin clouds. Sea-breeze. 

Very hot and sultry weather: Arabs say portends rain. Wind (generally) fromnorth in morning; afternoon from sea. 

Jan. 14. 7a. M. 29. 01 740 63 63 55 0 In tent. Land-breeze set in. Expected heavy rain, and pitched camp higher up. 

 2. 30p. M. 29. 15 - 81-1/279 68 0 Taken by Mr. Clarke. 

Rain began 2. 30 a. M. (Jan. 15), small drops, then heavy, lull, and againheavy; ended about 4. 30 a. M. A little wind from south-west rose after rain. 

The last rain was on December 7-10, 1877; violent storms accompanied it. 

Jan. 15. " 29. 00 - 71-1/270 66 30 By Mr. Clarke at Magháir Shúayb. Sky all covered ; little clear to west. Mist all over north. Things feel damp. 

 Noon. 29. 06 737 76 73 65 30 All cloudy. After rain, sultry heat of noon quite disappeared. 

 3p. M. 29. 06 738 75 73 65 25 Still cloudy. Cool. 

Cold nights and mornings. 

Jan. 16. 7a. M. 29. 20 - 48 45 42 18 No rain. Cold. Little wind. Cloudy. No wind. 

 Noon. 29. 05 - 69 65 54 3 Sun hot. Cool breeze from north as usual. No clouds. 

 3p. M. 29. 25 - 69 65 52 12

Night fine and clear. Stars and moon very bright. 

Jan. 17. 7a. M. 29. 30 - 42 42 39 17 Clear morning. Very cold. Land breeze. 

 Noon. 29. 36 745 69 66 54 18 Fine stiff breeze from north-east. 

 3p. M. 29. 34 745 73 70 59 16 Fine breeze falling. 

Fine clear night, moon nearly full. No clouds. Not cold. Cool at night andtowards morning. Wind rose about four a. M. 

Jan. 18. 7. 30a. M. 29. 28 745 55 55 50 26 In tent. Cool, clear. Gentle land-wind. 

 Noon. 29. 30 - 79 79 63 16 Same weather. 

 3p. M. 29. 25 - 81 79 62 8 Night cool. Hardly any wind. 

Jan. 19. 7a. M. 29. 15 - 53 52 45 16 In tent. Cold wind from north. 

 Noon. 29. 17 - 81 79 63 9 Sun hot. Cool breeze from north. Sky clear. 

 3p. M. 29. 15 - 80 77 60 5

Remarkably warm pleasant night. 

Jan. 20. 7a. M. 29. 05 - 50 48 45 19 In tent. No wind. Air sharp. 

 Noon. 29. 10 - 79 75 63 12 Light wind (south-west). Sun hot. Sky clear. 

 3p. M. 29. 10 - 73 73 60 8 Cool and pleasant. 

Curious moonrise. Thin clouds like volcanic smoke, separated into cirri likesheep-skin: all said sign of heat. Night still and warm. Few stratified cloudsto west. 

Jan. 21. 8a. M. 29. 13 740 56 54 50 20 In tent. Cold raw wind (El-Ayli) from north- east. High clouds. Worse near Gulf. 

 Noon. 29. 20 743 68 66 55 16 High cold wind, continuous. Bright sun. Sky intensely blue and clear. 

 4. 15p. M. 29. 22 744 66 65 53 8 Cool. High wind. 

Strong wind at night; fell about midnight; gusts at times. Very cold. Badweather at Sharm Yahárr. Fortuna ("strong wind") began January 21st, endedJanuary 23rd: the next gale was on night of January 28th. As a rule, thepeople say; black clouds show that the wind will increase; light clouds thecontrary. 

Jan. 22. 7a. M. 29. 32 745 50 49 45 15 Cold and cloudy. El-Ayli continues. 

 Noon. 29. 36 748 66 62 52 11 High cold north-easter rose about 11. 30. Sun warm. Air cold. 

Heavy purple clouds to north and west. Night still; occasional gusts. Eightp. M. Quite still. Mukhbir delayed by bad weather. 

Jan. 23. 7. 20a. M. 29. 39 748 50 50 45 19 Gusts and calm. Nimbi to west. High north wind set in. 

 Noon. 29. 40 747 66 64 54 14 Cold in shade, hot in sun. High wind. 

 4p. M. - - 66 65 52 9 Wind still high. Dust. 

Night alternately gusty and still. Warm. Mukhbir steamed back to heranchorage, Sharm Yáhárr. 

Jan 24. 7a. M. 29. 29 745 55 52 47 15 Gentle breeze from north. No clouds--sign of no wind. 

 1. 30p. M. - - 83 78 68 10 The normal hot, windless, cloudless day. 

 3p. M. - - 78 74 62 7 Pleasant sea-breeze. Sun hot; air coolish. 

Night warm and pleasant. 

MAGHáIR SHÚAYB TO MAKNÁ (March). 

Jan. 25. 7a. M. 29. 30 - 61 - - 15 On box. Fine, and perfectly clear. 

 Noon. 29. 45 - 78 - - - On road to Wady Makná, riding mule. Sea-breeze about noon, strong. Shortly after noon heavy clouds (from north and west) hid the sun. 

 3p. M. 30. 06 - 71 - - 23 Arrived at Makná, on box. 

Warm pleasant night. Appearance of rain. Wind from north. Moon clouded. 

AT MAKNÁ. 

Land and sea breezes regular. Morning and evening cool. Noon hot. Evaporationimmense. Healthy near shore; feverish up the valley. Damp air fromneighbourhood of Mount Sinai. 

Jan. 26. 7a. M. 30. 02 - 68 - - 21 Cloudy. Heavy white waves on water. Wind west; dangerous for ships. 

 12. 30p. M. 30. 07 - 80 77 62 21 Sun hot; sky clear. Light fleecy clouds on Sinai. 

 3. 30p. M. 30. 04 743 82 80 70 18 Air and sun hot. Clear. Sea-breeze. No gale. 

Rain probably during the day in Sinai. Muttali, or "fort, " of Makná showedaneroid 760 (29). 

Jan. 27. 7a. M. 30. 02 - 60 59 55 35 In tent. Fine clear; nice land-breeze. Rush of wind at two a. M. Wind at four a. M. Loud noise of reef. 

 1. 30p. M. 30. 04 - 80 76 68 28 In big tent, opening to south. Quite clear and bright. No clouds. Slight sea-breeze. 

 3p. M. 30. 02 - 80 79 70 26 Hot and still. 

Night glorious. No wind. Only sigh and sound of reef. 

Jan. 28. 7a. M. 29. 98 - 58 58 53 30 Perfectly still and clear. Light land- breeze. 

 12. 45p. M. 30. 00 - 80 78 66 20 Weather breaking. Clouds forming everywhere. High horizontal cirri. North wind, whistling over country. 

 3p. M. 29. 98 - 80 79 67 20 Packed up wet and dry bulbs. 

At sunset high streaky cirri of red colour: all said wind. Same as at MagháirShúayb (January 21-23). At eleven p. M. El-Ayli (north wind from 'Akabat-Aylah?) came down upon us with a rush. Gravel like drops of rain. Tents atonce on the ground. Sky still clear--stars shining. 

Jan. 29. 7. 15a. M. 30. 02 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Wind violent. Cold and raw between moonrise and sunrise. 

 Noon. 30. 04 - 81 - - 13 In tent-hut. Wind (El- Ayli) gusty and violent. Sky quite clear. 

They say this gale denotes end of Zamharir ("great cold"). Wind fell aboutthree p. M. Mild at sunset. Wind then increased, and became very violent atnight (l0-11 p. M. ); seems to beat down from above. Summit of quartz-hills, 2obs. = 29. 40

Jan. 30 7a. M. 30. 06 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Mountains perfectly clear. Fleecy clouds to north and south, sailing from west to east. 

 3p. M. 30. 06 - 72 - - 15 Clear and fine. Wind falling. 

Wind fell during afternoon and evening, but rose again at night; was at itsworst about eleven p. M. 

Jan. 31. 7a. M. 30. 06 - 67 - - 22 In tent-but. Wind worse; signs of blowing everywhere. Light clouds north and south. Mottled clouds (cirri, mackerel- back). Gusts violent after sunrise. 

 Noon. 30. 08 - 73 - - 19 In cabin on board Mukhbir. Wind violent. Sky clear. White clouds, as yet wind increasing. Sand and dust but mountains clear. 

 3p. M. 30. 09 - 78 - - 22 On board Mukhbir. Wind violent. Sky covered with grey clouds. 

At sunset, gleams to west and round horizon; heavy to north. Hoped for rain, but none came. Fires alight all night. Very bad night; perhaps the worst yetseen. Chain dragging. At nine p. M. Sky clear, but wind worse. 

AT MAKNÁ, ON BOARD "MUKHBIR. "

Feb. 1. 7a. M. 30. 08 - 70 - - 21 Wind worse than ever. Dark cirri to south. Mountains clear on all sides. 

 Noon. 30. 06 - 74 70 63 21 Wind very bad, turning to east (?). Cirri everywere: to west formed ascending rays like sun, extending to zenith; to east were crosses and lozenges. 

 3p. M 30. 04 - - 70 65 - Wind still bad. White clouds have thickened to south, and thinned to north. Bases of mountains blurred (by dust?); summits clear. 

At sunset wind lighter. Dark clouds to south, going westward from Suez. Cirrioverhead, presently disappeared; also about the horizon. At night finezodiacal light. Wind increased. Observations in main cabin throughout voyage. 

Feb. 2. 7a. M. 30. 00 - 69 70 65 22 Perfectly clear. Wind worse. 

 Noon. 30. 00 - 78 - - 21 Clear sky; only cloud, thin white strata to north. 

 3p. M. 29. 04 - 75 73 63 19 No clouds. Wind milder. Barometer falling (sign of wind ceasing?). Wind getting warmer, and bending east. 

Wind less in evening, and warmer; ceased about midnight; lasted from elevenp. M. , January 28, to midnight, February 2 = five days and five nights. Zodiacal light. 

Feb. 3. 7a. M. 29. 93 - 56 65 56 20 On deck (wet and dry bulbs in main cabin). Fresh breeze from east. Fleecy clouds south and east. 

 Noon. 29. 96 - 74 - - 25 On deck. Fine breeze from north. 

In evening cirri to west and east. Black dots in regular lines. Night at MinatJinái. Very fine and clear; young moon and Venus. Deadly still. Zodiacal lightseen every night in the 'Akabah Gulf: not outside it. 

Feb. 4. 7a. M. 29. 92 - 74 70 67 24 En route to Nuwaybi', along Sinai shore. Morning grey; light clouds everywhere. Dull brassy sunrise. Water dark. Wind south, felt very damp. Sinai hills clouded over: cirri strata high up; nimbi in fragments below. 

 Noon. 29. 86 - 74 73 68 28 Under awning on board; going north. Sickly sun. Cirri to east. 

 3p. M. 29. 80 - 75 73 66 26 Main cabin South wind strong, increased after noon. Clear horizon then. Sea foaming: wind became very strong, and raised water about sunset, then fell. 

A regular day of south wind, blasts, mists, and gusts; calmed down in evening. Quiet night. All day cirri and strata high up from west. Wásit sand formingcloud. 

Feb. 5. 7a. M. 30. 00 - 72 68 60 9 En route to Kaláh (Jezirat Faráun of maps), in main cabin. Wind north. Clouds on hill-tops and to north-- effects of yesterday. East mountains misty; west clear. Mottle of clouds. 

 Noon. 29. 94 - 73 70 61 7 On deck, steaming north. Dry and wet bulbs in main cabin. Clouds-- light cumuli to north, east, and west; south clear. Wind north, light. 

 3p. M. 29. 97 - 75 70 59 19 In main cabin off island El-Kaláh. Violent gusts from west, down valleys- -deflection of south wind, lasted only few minutes. Cloudy and clear. 

Night clear. Violent gusts from south, lasting a few minutes, then still. 

ON BOARD "MUKHBIR, " OFF ISLAND EL-KALÁH. 

Feb. 6. 7a. M. 30. 12 - 70 66 59 15 In main cabin. A regular raw and gloomy English morning. Clouds everywhere--drops of rain. Wind south, deflected west. Gusts at times. All felt damp and uncomfortable. 

 Noon. 30. 10 - 70 65 59 26 In main cabin. Sky all covered with clouds. Wind from north, gusty. Barometer rising. 

 3p. M. 30. 12 - 66 68 60 21 In main cabin. Sky covered; gleams of sun. Clear to south. Wind north, mild. 

A few drops of rain morning and evening. Pleasant quiet night. 

Feb. 7. 6a. M. 30. 13 - - 62 57 19 In main cabin. Still; fresh air; no wind. Heavy clouds from west, covering east-west mountains. West mottled; north and south clear. 

 3p. M. 30. 10 - 71 66 62 25 In main cabin. Cool breeze. Hot sun. Cloudy and clear. 

Drops of rain at sunset. Wind west. Heavy rain twice at night; after midnightwetted deck. Rain at 'Akabah from west, with clouds and winds. 

FROM EL-'AKABAIT, GOING SOUTH. 

Rise of tide off El-'Akabah town, one foot. 

Feb. 8. 7a. M. 30. 20 - 56 63 61 3 On deck. Dry and wet bulbs in main cabin. At sunrise heavy purple clouds drifting over plain, covering hills on both sides. Cold, raw, wet wind. Rain on Sinai to north-west and south- west. Saw rainbow. Wind gradually turning to east (favourable). Play of light and shade over plains and hills. 

 Noon. 30. 15 - 65 64 57 22 In main cabin. Glorious day. Blue sky; bluer sea. Strong breeze. Cloudy and clear. 

 3p. M. 30. 16 - 67 65 58 25 In main cabin. After noon wind gradually fell, and sky cleared; became much warmer. Steamer (five and a half knots) beat the sailing tender. North perfectly clear; south and east, fleecy clouds. Sun clear and warm. 

At sunset red cirri. Wind increased greatly. Waves following us, high andhollow. Bad night. Wind and water high. At midnight(?), rode with head togale. February 9th, four a. M. , turned south. Six a. M. Stood for Makná (rightangles, and nearly "turned turtle"). 

ON BOARD "MUKHBIR. "

Feb. 9. 7a. M. 30. 22 - - 64 26 26 In main cabin, off Sharm Dabbah. Sky quite clear. North wind colder than ever, yet we are going south. Beginning of dangerous gale which lasted till February 13th. Ugly hollow sea. 

 1p. M. 30. 15 - - 66 58 28 In main cabin. Out of 'Akabah Gulf. Passed into a summer sea. Under lee of Tirán. On deck 63 degrees (F. ). 

 3p. M. 30. 11 - - 69 59 27 In main cabin, rounding south of Jezirat Tirán. Sky all clear, except wind cirri over 'Akabah Gulf and to west. 

At nine p. M. Halo round moon, and far from it--bad sign! Before midnight gustsbegan. Increased at one a. M. (February 10). At four a. M. Very violent northwind from El-'Akabah. 

Feb. 10 7a. M. 30. 07 - - 69 65 30 In cabin of Mukhbir, south of Tirán. Water ruffled. Clouds everywhere. Rain on the coast. Felt raw. Mottled sky. 

 Noon. 30. 03 - - 72 64 38 In cabin at Tirán. Sun out at nine a. M. Clouds and clear. Windy sky. Cirri to west and north- west. Dark clouds to leeward. 

 3p. M. 29. 94 - - 74 65 25 In cabin at Tirán. Rain- storm to south-west. Wind north. Sky cloudy and clear. Cool breeze, not high. 

At four p. M. A few large drops fell. Heavy rain at El-'Akabah and on eastcoast. Sand-veil over Sinaitic shore. Six p. M. , wind gusty. Rain-clouds allover coast. Wind becoming warm. At 1. 15 a. M. (February 11), terrible rush andfall of rain. Wind westing. Mild at first. Five a. M. , hard Gharbi, threateningAzyab. All mist--could hardly see the shore. 

Feb. 11. 7a. M. 29. 82 - - 71 67 35 To windward of Tirán. Howling west wind. Sun like pale cheese. Aneroid falling. After seven a. M. The storm broke, and we narrowly escaped a wreck in two places, Tirán and Sináfir. Crisis of gale. 

 Noon. 29. 80 - - 70 60 30 In Sináfir port, main cabin. Wind west, bending to south on falling. 

 3p. M. 28. 20 - - 72 65 24 In main cabin. Mist and sand. English sun. Wind west and warm. Sea green and breaking. 

At five p. M. The sand-mist began to clear off. Wind died away, then turnednorth and north-north-east. Light scud over moon, going slowly. Patches ofblue, and stars. Barometer rising fast. Perfectly still night till midnight, when it began to blow, about the setting of the moon. At Suez, during thegale, red dust prevented ships seeing one another; and at Cairo trees wereuprooted. 

AT SINÁFIR ISLAND. 

Feb. 12 " 30. 13 - - 68 62 31 In main cabin. At 3. 30 a. M. A violent Ayli, like that of El-'Akabah, began to blow. Gusts and shivering water. Swept off all sand-fog. 

 Noon. 30. 17 - - 73 64 27 In main cabin. Howling wind. Sea less, because of ebb. Breeze fresh. Sky clear to south; few white clouds to north- east and west. Sun bright and warm. 

 3p. M. 30. 14 - - 75 65 24 In cabin. Wind violent as ever, and cold from north. 

During the night the wind blew from all possible directions; north-east, andat one time due west. 

LEFT SINÁFIR FOR SOUTH. 

Feb. 13. " 30. 18 - - 66 60 36 In main cabin. Howling north wind till four a. M. , then milder. Hardly a speck of cloud. Fresh cool air from north. Sea very blue. All sail set. Mist- clouds on tallest peaks of coast-range. Wind diminished as we went south. Cirri everywhere, zenith and on horizon. 

 Noon. 30. 12 - - 69 59 26 On deck. Soft pleasant air; before cold and hard. Influence of El'Akabah. Thermometer on deck 69 degrees (F. ). 

 3p. M 30. 10 - - 71 62 20 On board. Sky milky everywhere with cirri. Wind north-west, going west. 

Red sunset. Distant halo round moon--cleared off soon (a good sign), and notwell marked. Light westerly gale (No. 2). 

AT SHARM YÁHÁRR. 

Feb. 14. 7a. M. 30. 06 - - 64 58 22 In cabin (open). Splendid morning. Wind west, set in hard before noon. Milk-and-water sky. Should have been kept at Sináfir. 

 Noon. 30. 04 - - 71 60 20 West wind increased. Sky clear; but SHÁRR Mountains cloudy-- condensing moisture. 

 3p. M. 30. 02 - - 71 60 20 In cabin. North-west wind strong. Moved ship. Heavy black clouds on mountains. 

ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" AT SHARM YÁHÁRR. 

Feb 15. " 30. 10 - - 66 58 30 In cabin. 

 Noon. 30. 13 - 72 - - 35 In cabin. 

 3p. M. 30. 14 - 75 - - 26 On deck. Clouds above the mountains. 

Cold north-west breeze at five p. M. Sea high. Aneroid observations at SulphurMountain--foot, 30. 14; top, 29. 90; difference . 24 = 250 feet. 

Feb. 16. 7. 30a. M. 30. 23 - - 63 55 20 In cabin. Aneroid unusually high. Clear and cloudy at mountains. Cool air and light breeze. 

 12. 50p. M. 30. 23- - 64 55 20 Cool. Wind north. In cabin. 

 3p. M. 30. 20 - - 66 56 18 In cabin. Cool. No clouds. 

Splendid night. Not a sign of cloud. Cool. White streak on the water (milkysea, like that of Bombay, caused by fish?). Finest weather yet seen. 

ON BOARD "MUKHBIR. "

Feb. 17. 6a. M. 30. 17 - 66 - - 15 In cabin. Cool, clear, splendid. Forenoon warm and still. Sea glassy. 

 Noon. 30. 16 - 74 - - 20 In cabin. Sea-breeze came up strong at eleven a. M. 

 3p. M. 30. 13 - - - - 23 In cabin. Sky clouded all the afternoon--did not see the sun. Moon veiled--not a nice look. 

Night very cold (shivery). Wind Barri ("land-breeze"). 

IN MESS-TENT, OPEN TO EAST. 

Feb. 18. 6. 30a. M. 30. 00 - 61 - - 14 Cold and clear. Land- breeze. 

 Noon. 30. 04 - 78 - - 33 Sea-breeze setting; land-breeze stopped. Sky perfectly clear. Sun hot. No end of flies. 

 3p. M. 30. 04 - 78 - - 22 Fierce and violent west wind--a Gharbi, or exaggerated sea-breeze? Sky quite clear. 

Night quite still. Cold wind stopped at nine p. M. Rather suddenly. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING SECOND MARCH TO THE HIMSÁ PLATEAU, SOUTH-EASTERNMIDIAN, BETWEEN FEBRUARY 19 AND MARCH 8, 1878. 

The distance traversed comprised 222-1/4 statute miles, mostly throughunexplored country. 

On return compared aneroids:--French . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 763 millimetres. My Casella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 762 "

Difference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 001 "

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks. Inches. (deg. )(deg. )

Feb. 19. 6. 20a. M. 30. 07 65 23 In big tent at El-Muwaylah. Cool land- breeze. Sky quite clear. 

 Noon. 29. 82 74 23 At Wady Surr, under tree in sea-breeze. Clear sky, few white clouds. Cold land- breeze in Wady Surr at ten a. M. ; cold sea- breeze at eleven a. M. 

 3. 40p. M. 29. 60 76 20 At Safh Wady Malayh (Malih), in big tent. Feels as if high up. 

Night perfectly still, except a gust about midnight. 

Feb. 20. 6. 25a. M. 29. 53 60 21 In big tent at Safh Wady Malayh. Clear and fine. 

 11. 20a. M. 29. 40 73 43 Under tree at base of western Gháts. Fine cool sea-breeze. 

 3p. M. 29. 44 78 17 At Sayl Wady el-Jimm ("water-gathering"). Hot sun. Cold sea-breeze. 

Night cold, with land-breeze. 

Feb. 21. 6. 15a. M. 29. 38 64 7 In big tent at Sayl Wady el-Jimm. Clouds to north and east; air damp. High wind and clouds. 

 12. 45p. M. 28. 82 71 25 On march up Wady Sadr, under tree. Cold sea-breeze. Sky quite clear; sun warm. Awful east winds down these Wadys form the Goz or sand-heaps. 

 3. 30p. M. 28. 86 76 7 In small tent at El-Nagwah, in Wady Sadr. Sun hot; breeze cold. 

Night cold, but not so cold as we expected. 

Feb. 22. 6a. M. 28. 86 56 8 In big tent at El-Nagwah. 

 11. 50a. M. 25. 40 65 4 Under tree in Wady Sadr; say, 1600 feet high. White clouds. West wind (sea-breeze deflected to north) blowing. Here cold comes from wind. 

 3p. M. 27. 80 74 3 In big tent at Amwáh el-Rikáb, Wady Sadr. 

At four p. M. Cold and clouds; cumuli and cirri. West wind deflected to north. At five p. M. Thermometer in tent 66 degrees. Fire in tent. Night cold, clear, and still. A few gusts about midnight. 

AT HEAD OF WADY SADR. 

Feb. 23. 6. 30a. M. 27. 80 53 5 In big tent foot of Gháts. Weather lovely- -clear, fine, and cold. At eight a. M. Sun warm, then cold wind. 

 1. 30p. M. 26. 88 72 5 In big tent. Cold easterly gale. 

 4p. M. 26. 90 65 2 In small tent, same place. 

Violent wind at midnight. Cold; thermometer 38 degrees. 

Feb. 24. 6a. M. 26. 95 48 0 At head of Wady Sadr. 

 26. 15 45 0 To summit of Khuraytat el-Jils (Pass). Above the Pass, aneroid 26. 25; below, 26. 70: difference, . 55 = 450 feet. Walked down in twenty-six minutes. 

 11. 30a. M. 26. 18 56 0 In the open, under shade. Perfectly clear of clouds. Sun hot. 

 3p. M. 26. 26 66 -2 In big tent on Hismá plateau (short descent to camping-ground). Air clear; sun hot. 

Very cold when sun sets. Gusts from east at night. 

ON HIMSÁ PLATEAU. 

Feb. 25. 6. 30a. M. 26. 30 42 3 In big tent. 

 12. 30p. M. 27. 84 74 12 At foot of Khuraytat el-Jils. Still, no wind; no clouds. 

 3. 30p. M. 27. 83 78 17 No wind; no clouds. 

Night splendidly clear and still. Felt warm. 

Feb. 26. 6a. M. 27. 72 64 2 In big tent on Hismá plateau. Glorious orange-coloured dawn. Mild north wind. Moon in last quarter. At eight a. M. Good breeze from north; at eleven a. M. Cool and pleasant breeze from east. 

 Noon. 28. 00 70 -8 On march in Shafah Mountains. Hot sun. Cold wind. 

 3p. M. 28. 30 85 -4 Camp Majrá el-Ruways. In small tent. Strong west breeze in gusts. 

Night glorious at foot of the two Passes. 

Feb. 27. 6a. M. 28. 10 65 -4 On ground outside tent at Majrá el-Ruways. Sky overhead quite clear; a few flecks to south, low clouds to east. At 8. 30 a. M. Wind south. Sun at first hot; then sky cloudy. 

 11. 45a. M. 28. 48 80 3 At El-Rahabah, head of Wady Dámah, under tree. Fine sea-breeze. High white strata to north-east and south. No clouds elsewhere. 

 5p. M. 28. 56 76 -5 Under thorn-tree at Wady Dámah. Fleeting cirro-cumuli. 

Night very cold. Not a sign of dew till we returned on board Mukhbir. 

Feb. 28. 6a. M. 28. 50 44 -5 At Wady Dámah, on box in open. Clouds and sea-breeze at 8. 45 a. M. 

 1p. M. 28. 29 70 19 Under tree at Shuwák ruin. Thermometer in sun, 82 degrees. Bits of cumuli from south. At two p. M. Furious wind and dust (sand-devils) scouring up valley from south, also deflected to west by Pass gorge. "Sand-devils" in Wadys Surr, Sadr, Dámah, Shuwák, and Salmá. 

 3p. M. 28. 19 71 16 In big tent. 

A few gusts during early part of night; the rest very still. Cold and clear. 

AT SHUWÁK RUIN. Mar. 1. 6. 45a. M. 25. 30 46 10 Very cold; hands chilled. Land-breeze at eight a. M. At barrage (dam), aneroid 28. 36. 

 Noon. 28. 37 76 17 In small tent. Noon hot. Wind gusty--not regular and strong as yesterday. 

 3p. M. 28. 34 77 6 In small tent. Sky clear; air still and sultry. 

Mar. 2. 6a. M. 28. 30 58 11 In big tent at Shuwák. Air still. Clouds to east. Afterwards sky mottled, windy striae. At seven a. M. Rainbow without rain; thin cloud north of sun; perpendicular streak, brilliant enough: lasted twenty minutes. 

 9a. M. 28. 75 66 - At Shaghab ruin. Sea-breeze at eleven a. M. Clear and cool. Day slightly cloudy; sun partly hidden. 

 3p. M. 28. 60 86 15 In big tent at Majrá el-Wághir. Mild sea- breeze. Hot sun. High clouds. 

Night windless, except few occasional gusts. Stars veiled. Grand zodiacallight (now the regular thing). Cool and pleasant. 

Mar. 3. 6a. M. 28. 55 66 14 At Majrá el-Wághir, outside tent. Sky cloudy; mist to north, "mackerel's back" to east. Sea-breeze at 9. 30 a. M. In Wady Dámah. 

 Noon. 29. 13 75 26 Under tree in Wady Dámah. Cool wind from south-west. A few clouds, getting gradually darker to west and south-west. 

 4p. M. 29. 20 78 15 At El-Kutayyifah (camp) under a tree. Cool south-west wind. 

 6a. M. 29. 30 63 16 Cold north wind. Sea-breeze at nine a. M, In big tent at El-Kutayyifab. 

Mar. 4. 11. 30a. M. 29. 33 68 11 In shade of rock, Umm ámil. 

 4p. M. 29. 63 80 10 In small tent at Má el-Badi'h, Wady Salmá. Cold, stiff gale: dust-laden sea-breeze up the ugly gorge. 

 5. 45a. M. 29. 50 60 13 At Má el-Badi'h, on box in open air. Air clear; thin threads to south. 

Mar. 5. 12. 30p. M. 30. 06 84 -3 At Zibá, in big tent, open east and west, fronting the bay. 

 2. 45p. M. 30. 00 82 4 At Zibá, in small tent. 

AT ZIBÁ, IN CAMP (our second halt). 

Mar. 6. 6a. M. 29. 92 61 15 In big tent. Rather heavy clouds to east and elsewhere. Sea-breeze began at ten a. M. 

 Noon. 30. 04 86 10 In big tent. Air dull and heavy. "Rain- sun. "

 3. 45p. M. 30. 00 81 3 Sky quite clear. 

Storm at sunset. Heavy clouds rising over arch from west to north: all saidmeant wind. At seven p. M. Violent gusty gale; nearly blew down tents. Rushingand furious rain from north-west. Gusts lasted long. Fell about eleven p. M. Rose again very violently at midnight; then blew itself out. Followed by coldair. Rain lasted about one hour; damped the ground, and left deep puddles inthe rock-hollows. Never had thunder and lightning in Midian. 

Mar. 7. 6a. M. 31. 12 58 15 At Zibá, on box. Cold and clear. A few clouds to west. 

 11. 30a. M. 29. 96 74 19 At Jebel el Ghál, in shade in the open. Fine west wind. 

Night and morning cold. On summit of Jebel el-Ghál, aneroid 29. 75. 

Mar. 8. 6a. M. 30. 04 51 11 At Máyat el-Ghál (camp), on box. 

March 8th is the 30th (last day of) Imshir (February), 1094. March 9th is the 1st of Barmáhát (March). See Chap. I. P. 22. In the early days of Barmáhát they expect the Husum or violent wind whichdestroyed the tribe of Ad. After seven nights and eight days begins the Bard el-Agúz, or "old man'scold. "On Barmáhát 12 (March 20) is the Intikál el-Shams, or "vernal equinox;" afterwhich the weather becomes warmer. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" IN SHARM YÁHÁRR, BETWEEN MARCH 8 ANDMARCH 12, 1878. 

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. Inches. (deg. )Bulb. Bulb. (deg. )

Mar. 8. 12. 40p. M. 30. 08 74 - - 18 Main cabin, Mukhbir. 

Mar. 9. 7a. M. 30. 10 20 69 62 - In cabin. 

 12. 30p. M. 30. 13 73 72 64 - Quite clear. Fresh sea-breeze. 

 3p. M. 30. 11 75 74 64 - Clouds white and streaky everywhere. 

In the evening clouds on hills and mountains, especially the SHÁRR; elsewhereclear. Red sunset, grand. At night dew heavy on board Mukhbir; gunwales wet inmorning. Moon with kind of half halo round her. Night very hot--sign of comingstorm. 

At noon compared ship's (Mukhbir)mercurial barometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 773 millimetres. With my aneroid by Casella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 765 millimetres. And (Mr. Duguid's) aneroide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 765 millimetres. Difference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -008 millimetres. On December 19, 1877, ship's difference . . . . . +007 millimetres. Difference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +001 millimetres. 

Mar. 10. 6. 30p. M. 30. 12 73 69 61 - In cabin. Clouds on SHÁRR like flights of birds, low-lying banks to south. Morning slightly muggy: no breeze. 

 Noon. 30. 12 76 75 60 - In cabin. Gentle sea-breeze. Sky quite clear. 

 3p. M. 30. 11 76 76 66 - Cool, pleasant sea-breeze. 

Fine night, pleasant and cool. 

Mar. 11. 6a. M. 30. 10 73 68 65 - In cabin. Splendid morning. 

 Noon. 30. 10 - 80 64 - In cabin. Glorious day; sea- breeze cool and fresh. 

 3. 30p. M. 30. 05 78 77 65 - In cabin. Sea-breeze lively and strong. 

Mar. 12. 7a. M. 30. 04 - 67 61 - In cabin. Warmish. Splendid sunrise on SHÁRR; cold to north, warmer tints in centre, and glowing red-yellow flush to south. 

 3p. M. 30. 03 78 77 70 - In cabin. Fine cool sea- breeze. 

Tides high and low (March) pier shows difference of three feet in rise, aboutthe midlength of Sharm Yáhárr. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING EXCURSION (SECOND MARCH) ONAND AROUND THE SHÁRR MOUNTAIN, BETWEEN WEDNESDAY, MARCH 18, AND MONDAY, MARCH 18, 1878. 

The distance traversed comprised 59 miles. 

On return compared aneroids:--French (left on board Mukhbir) . . . . 758 millimetres. My Casella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 756 "Difference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 002 "

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks. Inches. (deg. )(deg. )

Mar. 13. 6. 20a. M. 29. 96 66 23 On deck of Mukhbir. Cool land-breeze; hot at nine a. M. Sea-breeze at 10. 45. At Wady Sanawiyyah aneroid 29. 60. 

 3p. M. 29. 26 82 13 Under tree (acacia, but shady). Grand sea- breeze from one to three p. M. 

Warm night under the SHÁRR, stones retaining heat. Moon misty. Very heavy dew, like rain; wetted boxes; saw for the first time inland. Will last for somethree months, and must greatly assist vegetation. 

Mar. 14. 6a. M. 29. 30 68 28 In big tent. All the sky clouded over as if rain coming. Sea-breeze 10. 30. 

 Noon. 29. 60 88 28 Camp at Safh Wady Kusayb. Cloudy and sultry all day. Little sun, except from nine till eleven a. M. Rain-heat; seems to threaten rain. 

 3p. M. 29. 56 86 23 In big tent. Sultry-feels like storm. 

At night, violent storm of wind from north-east, with nasty warm gusts. Thepeople call it Sabáh, probably for Sabá, the "Zephyr"--the Bád-i-Sabá ofpoetry; also El-Farawi, because it blows at night. Big tent down in a moment, as at Makná. N. B. --No windstorm on the coast. At foot of Abú Sháar Pass, aneroid 28. 80; at foot of quartz-vein (wall), 28. 50. 

Mar. 15. 6a. M. 29. 50 76 1 In big tent at Safh Wady Kusayb, north- east wind still blowing. No dew in morning. 

 11. 45a. M. 29. 22 93 -5 In Wady Surr. Curious windy cirri to west. Wind blew itself out in Wady Surr. Pleasant sea-breeze from south. 

 3p. M. 28. 93 100 14 In big tent at Safhat el-Wúayrah, Wady Surr. Cloudy. Wind from south, a deflected sea-breeze. 

ASCENDING SHÁRR MOUNTAIN. 

Mar. 16. 6a. M. 29. 86 70 2 On box outside tent. Morning grand; still, clear, warm, and dry. At seven a. M. , going uphill, aneroid 28. 20; at 7. 35, half-way up, 27. 70. 

 9a. M. 26. 83 63 3

 Noon. 26. 70 82 - Under rock. Pleasant sea-breeze from north-east. Sun hot; day quite clear. 

 3p. M. 26. 76 86 3 Shade of rock, summit of outlier. Strong wind from west. 

Mean of two observations on summit of outlier, 26. 79 = 3, 200 feet above sea-level. 

EN ROUTE TO THE COAST. 

Mar. 17. 9a. M. 28. 36 80 3 Under tree. Very hot sun that tired all. Breeze at 8. 30 a. M. 

 11a. M. 28. 76(?)93 - Same place. At summit of Pass el-Kuwayd, aneroid 28. 13; in Wady Kuwayd, 28. 20. Very small descent to 28. 50, say 400 feet. 

 3. 40p. M. 28. 65 90 -9 In big tent. 

ON THE RETURN MARCH TO SHARM YÁHÁRR. 

Mar. 18. 4. 20am 28. 63 73 -4 Complete change of climate. No Khamsin to- day. Fine sea-breeze in puffes at 9:30 a. M. ; came up strong about noon. 

 11. 45am 29. 43 91 5 Under tree in Wady el-Bayzá. 

On March 17th began what our Egyptians called the Khamsin, and the Arabs El-Dufún (Bedawin, Dafún) generically; and specifically Dufún el-Suráyyá ("of thePleiades""). Sky dark without clouds. At night, yellow clouds over moon. Gustsalternately hot and cold. Highly electrical; few could sleep at night. Tentsleft open. It was followed by damp and gloomy weather, which the Arabsattribute to the Intikál el-Shams ("vernal equinox"). This began on March19th, and lasted till the 22nd. Aneroid falls lower than we have yet seen it. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR, " BETWEEN MARCH 18 AND MARCH20, 1878. 

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. Inches. (deg. )Bulb. Bulb. (deg. )

Mar. 18. 3p. M. 29. 91 84 - - 24 In main cabin. A few light clouds. 

Mar. 19. 7a. M. 29. 83 - 70 64 - Under deck awning. Morning still, calm, and muggy. Clouds everywhere. Presently cool land-breeze came up. Regular Khamsin at eight a. M. 

 Noon. 29. 80 - 79 71 - In captain's cabin. Cloudy and cool. 

 3p. M. 29. 76 - 79 70 - In captain's cabin. Afternoon sultry. Wind Azyab, and from south. Seems to threaten a storm. Heavy clouds from west and north-west. 

Mar. 20. 7a. M. 29. 82 - 75 71 - In captain's cabin. Sultry, "juicy" morning. 

 Noon. 29. 75 - 76 70 - Dark and cloudy. Cool wind from south-west. 

 4p. M. 29. 80 - 76 68 - In captain's cabin. Sultry air; no breeze; nasty and damp. Cloudy all over. A storm somewhere (Alexandria? Suez?). Swell on sea, breaking on south reef; comes from north- west. Weather looks like that of Europe. 

About eight p. M. A cool draught from north. No moon or stars. Expect it to endeither in a gale or in heavy rain. It ended on morning of March 22nd, with afine north wind; and at 9. 10 p. M. With slight earthquake. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR, " DURING VOYAGE FROM SHARMYÁHÁRR TO EL-WIJH, EL-HAURÁ, ETC. , BETWEEN MARCH 21 AND MARCH 29, 1878. 

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hydg. Remarks. Inches. (deg. )Bulb. Bulb. (deg. )

STEAMING SOUTH. 

Mar. 21. 7a. M. 29. 76 - 75 71 - In captain's cabin. Aneroid very low. Wind south-west. Ugly, gloomy weather. Mountains misty. Very slight roll in sea--became heavy in afternoon--mar vecchio (Bahr madfún). Bursts of half sun after nine a. M. 

 12. 40p. M. 29. 84 - 77 71 - Aneroid rising. At noon sea quite calm and oily. Shortly after, sea-breeze from west set in. About one p. M. Made sail; rolling began. More sun. Sails down. At two p m. Rolling heavy, cross sea (mar vecchio). 

 3. 30p. M. 29. 85 - 76 73 - Damp increases. 

After five p. M. Sky clearer and weather finer, but still dark to south. Starsveiled. 

IN MARSÁ DUMAYGHAH. 

Mar. 22. 6. 15a. M. 29. 92 - 73 66 - In cabin. Morning cool. Wind north. Total change of weather. Sky clear, except cirri, and wind increased. White "horses" outside. All nature gay. 

 Noon. 30. 01 - 79 65 - In cabin. Damp disappeared. 

 3p. M. 30. 90 - 74 64 - Fine, strong, bright sea- breeze. North wind, threatening to blow hard. Cloudy and clear. Windy sky. 

At 9. 10 p. M. Earthquake from north to south; lasted twenty seconds; followedby strong north wind, which lasted only a short time. So end the Equinoctials. 

Mar. 23. 6a. M. 30. 00 - 70 61 - At Dumayghah. In cabin. Glorious morning; cool, calm, bright. Zephyr from north. At noon a few wind-clouds and cirri to north and west. Very heavy rolling (mar vecchio) from north-west. Long waves. 

 3p. M. 29. 98 - 74 65 - At El-Wijh. Pleasant, cool north wind. Afternoon cloudy and cold, as if wind came through rain. 

Cleared in the evening. Saw stars. 

AT EL-WIJH, IN PORT. 

Mar. 24. 5. 45a. M. 29. 94 - 71 68 - In cabin. Grey, cloudy morning. No cold. 

 3p. M. 29. 98 - 74 65 - In cabin. Fine north breeze. Warm sun. Air cool. Wind- clouds to east; the rest blue. Sky wondrous clear. 

At 4. 30 p. M. Left El-Wijh, and steamed nearly due south-west. Fine breeze andlong waves from north-west. Wind and waves fell. Rolled horridly from sevenp. M. To midnight: no ballast; very bad steering: then turned south-east, andmovement somewhat improved. Very heavy dew. Zodiacal light clear. 

IN CABIN AT SEA. 

Mar. 25. 7. 30 a. M. 30. 04 - 73 68 - Marvellous fine morning. Wind north. Glorious day. 

 12. 15p. M. 30. 01 - 75 64 - Near El-Haurá. Lovely day. Steady north breeze. 

 4p. M. 29. 97 - 77 69 -

NEAR EL-HAURÁ. 

Mar. 26 6a. M. 29. 94 70 - - 36 In cabin. Red morning, warm and still. Sea oily. Light mists. Venus throws shadow. Very heavy dew--all wet. 

 12. 15p. M. 29. 91 - 74 70 - Same place. Warm sun; cool breeze from north. 

 3. 20p. M. 29. 87 - 78 74 - At sea. Cirri and wind-clouds to east and nearly everywhere. 

Weather fine, yet glass falling. Damp air. Hence (possibly) many have colds, coughs, and hoarseness. Wind-clouds, but clear to north. Dew very heavy. 

RETURNING NORTH TO EL-WIJH. 

Mar. 27. 7a. M. 29. 87 - 73 68 - In captain's cabin Dew-clouds everywhere. Air very damp. 

 11. 45a. M. 29. 98 - 78 70 - Air still and pleasant. 

 3p. M. 29. 85 - 78 72 - Day decidedly hot and damp. Aneroid very low. 

Mar. 28. 6. 30a. M. 29. 89 - 70-1/2 68 - In cabin. Dew wetted tents and decks like heavy shower. Sky all dew; air feels soppy. Violent wind from north-west. Ship rolling. 

 1p. M. 29. 97 - 70-1/2 67 -

Mar. 29. 7a. M. 29. 97 71 - - 33 In cabin. Strong, cold north wind. Men coughing like cries of camels. Sky very clear. This kind of storm is called Hawwá el-'Uwwah ("last storm of March"), and blows fourteen days. Followed by El-Ni'ám el- Kabir ("greater"), and El- Saghir ("less"); continues forty days. 

 6p. M. 28. 78 74 - - 30 At Fort El-Wijh, two hours' journey up the valley. 

Fine day on seaboard--not much gale. Wind north-west. Night cool, but no dew. Ship's barometer, 6 a. M. , 30. 7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F. ) 64 deg. Ship's barometer, noon, 30. 7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F. ) 76 deg. Ship's barometer, 3 p. M. , 30. 7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F. ) 76 deg. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING THIRD MARCH, FROM EL-WIJH TO EL-BADÁ AND BACK, BETWEEN MARCH 30 AND APRIL 11, 1878. 

Compared ship's (Sinnár) mercurial barometer, 30. 07 (64 deg. F. ), withanerold, 30. 01; difference, aneroid, --0. 06. 

On return compared ship's (Sinnár) mercurial barometer, 29. 99, with aneroid, 29. 86; difference, aneroid, --0. 13. 

Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hydg. Remarks. Inches. (deg. )Bulb. Bulb. (deg. )

Mar. 30. 5. 30a. M. 29. 70 64 - - 24 At Fort El-Wijh, on box before tent. Cold and cloudy morning. Moon and stars veiled. 

 Noon. 29. 55 90 - - 43 In camp at Umm el-Karáyát-- deep valley. Puffs of sea- breeze from south. Strong sun. 

 3. 15p. M. 29. 50 86 - - 29 In big tent at Umm el-Karáyát- -lat. 26 deg. 13'. Sun very hot. Fresh and strong sea- breeze from east (?). 

Cool and pleasant night. No sign of dew. Climate healthy. Garrison at Fort El-Wijh in excellent condition. 

Mar. 31. 5a. M. 29. 44 45 - - 19 In big tent at Umm el-Karáyát. Very clear, still morning. West pink. At sunrise wind, and hot and cold puffs (south- east and land-breeze). 

 11. 10p. M. 29. 46 90 - - -3 At Wady el-Kubbah, under tree. Very hot. Wind shifting from east to west (sea-breeze). Stones in sun so hot that they cannot be held. At noon regular Khamsin; air sandy. 

Top of Jebel el-Kubbah, aneroid 29. 34; in valley below, aneroid 29. 46 (47?);height, 120 feet. 

 3p. M. 29. 30 94 - - -20 At Máyat el-Dasnah. Hot west wind. Thermometer in big tent, unwalled. 

Night cool. 

April 1. " 29. 30 63 - - -12 At Máyat el-Dasnah. Morning pleasant, still, and quite clear. No sign of dew or Khamsin. Hygrometer exceedingly dry. Sun rose hot. Slight breeze from eight a. M. To 8. 30 a. M. , when the rocks and stones have become thoroughly heated. Very refreshing: cools head; stops perspiration. 

 9. 30a. M. 28. 96 83 - - -10 At foot of Marú Rábigh, in shade of rock. 

 12. 30p. M. 28. 92 99 - - -8 At Marú Rábigh, under big tent awning. About noon a medley of winds; hot blasts of Khamsin from south-west, suddenly changed to north. 

 3p. M. 28. 88 100 - - -25 At Marú Rábigh. Hot sun. Wind in puffs, mostly south-west. No sand in air. Stones in sunshine too hot to hold; yet there are flies. 

This is second day of Khamsin. Comes up about ten a. M. ; wind either too muchor too little. At 2. 5 p. M. Nearly blew tent down. 

April 2. 5. 10a. M. 28. 98 70 - - -6 At foot of Marú Rubayyigh in Wady Rábigh. Morning perfectly still. All appearance of Khamsin. Light horizontal striae to north. 

 Noon. 29. 15 92 - - -18 At Abú Gezáz valley, under tree. Much bothered by small flies. 

 3. 10p. M. 29. 14 100 - - -25 In big tent, which was again blown down. 

Third day of Khamsin. All animals weak and worn out. Wind comes up later--11. 30 a. M. To noon. Gives feeling of faintness and awful thirst. "Devils"(Zawábah) rose high in valley with electrical whirl. Evening lowering. Wind orrain clouds from west and north. Night still and cool. Threatening clouds eastand west. 

April 3. 5a. M. 29. 20 65 - - -13 At Abú Gezáz valley. Morning cool (sign Khamsin gone). Sun pleasant. Red wind-clouds to north and east. At six a. M. Pleasant, cool land-breeze from south. 

 Noon. 28. 80 90 - - -16 At El-Badá, under palm-tree. Wind west. Milky sky, all white. 

 3p. M. 28. 75 95 - - -24 In big tent. Regular Khamsin-- very nasty. Clouds to west. 

Night still. Neither warm nor cool. Climate fine. Colds and coughsdisappeared. 

AT EL-BADÁ. 

April 4. 5. 30a. M. 28. 70 68 - - -7 On box outside tent. Traces of dew. White clouds. Looked regularly like a Khamsin day. 

 Noon. 28. 74 90 - - 2 In big tent. No sun. Air muggy. White gleams. View poor; like rain. Strong blast from south-west. Heavy clouds west and north. Drops of rain fell three times between one p. M. And three p. M. 

 3p. M. 28. 70 90 - - -8

At four p. M. In west a dust like general or prairie fire. A few drops of rainfell at long intervals--could not catch any for photographs. Broad parallelveins of white, red, and black cloud rising from east to west. Puffs of coldwind came on, soon growing to blasts; then storm came down upon us. No thunderor lightning. Kind of "dust-bow" in west (no rain), half the arc. Wind thenturned north and felt cold and rainy. Heavy cloud-bank to west. Forms ofmountains crept out of the brown and purple mist, half dust, half rain. Allenjoyed storm. No rain for two years has fallen here. Rainbows at El-'Akabah(double) and at Shuwák (single). Cool and pleasant night, with dew. Mean ofsix aneroid observations at El-Badá, 28. 78. After leaving El-Badá mornings andevenings delightful; sun warm in day; nights cool and pleasant. Dust at times. 

April 5. 4. 30a. M. 28. 65 - - - -8 In big tent at Badá. Dust "devils. " Great change after rain. Very damp. 

 3p. M. 28. 58 86 - - -3 At 'Ayn el-Kurr, under shade of rock. Strong north wind. 

Though all prophesied Azyab or "south-easter, " this was perhaps the finest ofall our days. Night cool. Cold wind at one a. M. , of which all complained. 

April 6. 5. 45a. M. 28. 59 58 - - 6 At 'Ayn el-Kurr, on box outside tent. White clouds to south. No wind. False sea- breeze at seven a. M. ; true at ten a. M. Cloudy forenoon. 

 11. 45a. M. 28. 90 84 - - - In Wady el-Kurr. 

 3p. M. 28. 87 87 - - -3 At Wady Laylah, in big tent. Afternoon windy as usual. Puffs from west (sea-breeze), cold. Sky quite clear. Mountains milky. 

Night cool, but not cold. 

April 7. 4. 15a. M. 28. 80 60 - - +5 In big tent at Wady Laylah. Morning especially bright. Lucifer like a little moon. Breeze at eight a. M. 

 Noon. 29. 39 54 - - +2 Wady Birkat, under rock. Going down seawards fast. Cool west wind. Good sea-breeze. Sky and sun clear--sun not unpleasant. Hot in sheltered bends. 

 3. 10p. M. 29. 46 81 - - 4 At Abál-Ajáj, under tamarisks. 

Dew at night. 

April 8. 5a. M. 29. 55 60 - - 27 Outside tent at Abál-Ajáj. Cool morning; warmer at eight a. M. Before breeze set in. 

 Noon. 29. 94 83 - - 22 At the temple (El-Gasr), Wady Hamz. Sand-dust with sea- breeze, terrible at temple and around it. Eyes filled, clothes covered. Saw mirage-- well defined for first time. 

 3p. M. 29. 90 52 - - 20 At Wady Hamz. Hygrometer damp on account of sea-breeze. 

April 9. 4a. M. 29. 92 70 - - 25 Still, clear, and beautiful, like all these mornings. Hot sun. Blue sea, glassy near the shore. Puffs of wind from east. 

 Noon. 29. 90 96 - - -8 In big tent at Wady Mismáh. Cool breeze from north-cast. Heat strongly reflected from quartz. Vegetation dreadfully dry; plants look dead. Two bad years. 

 3p. M. 29. 74 92 - - -18 In big tent at Abál-Marú. Another nasty afternoon. High west wind--sea-breeze, not Khamsin; tent almost blown down. Dust dreadful. 

Evening charming. Night admirably cool. 

April 10 4. 20a. M. 29. 74 - - - 0 In big tent at Abál-Marú. Splendid morning; few striae in east. Will be hot. 

 4. 30p. M. 29. 95 - 76 73 - On board Sinnár, captain's cabin. Pleasant afternoon. Cool sea-breeze. 

ON BOARD "SINNÁR. "

April 11. 6a. M. 29. 86 - 70 66 - In captain's cabin. Felt damp strongly after the Desert. 

 12. 30p. M. 29. 87 - 78 74 - All complaining of heat (white heat); damp is the cause. No sea-breeze to speak of. 

 3. 15p. M. 29. 83 - 79 75 - White clouds everywhere. Curious wind-clouds, not a little like comets. 

Heavy dew. Streets of El-Wijh wet. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STREAMER "SINNÁR, " EN ROUTE FROM EL-WIJH TOSUEZ, FROM APRIL 12 TO APRIL 17, 1878. 

Date. Time. Aneroid Dry Wet Remarks. Inches. Bulb. Bulb. 

April 12. 6. 20 a. M. 29. 89 78 73 En route to El-Muwaylah, captain's cabin. Red sunrise. Clouds thin all about horizon. Looks like regular Khamsin day. Feels exceedingly damp. 

 12. 20 p. M. 20. 80 79 70 In dead calm. Sea oily, like mirror. No winds. Thin white clouds everywhere. 

 3. 35 p. M. 29. 78 81 76 In captain's cabin. Wretched day at El-Wijh and ashore. Very muggy. 

At night a "bruch" (halo) of clouds round moon, and far from it. Expectstorm. "Bruchs" round moon on 13th, 14th, and 15th. 

April 13. Noon. 29. 84 78 70 Anchored before El-Muwaylah. No dew in morning, and clouds everywhere. No sun seen. Very hot at noon. White clouds everywhere. Smoke of steamer hangs low. Mountains look very high. Muggy. Fine drinkytite. 

 3 p. M. 29. 80 83 73 At Sharm Yáhárr. Hot and sweaty. Light west wind rose after noon; soon fell. 

At night clouds and "bruch. " Clear to north, thick to south. 

April 14. 6. 30 a. M. 29. 82 78 72 At Sharm Yáhárr. Nasty muggy morning. Light north breeze set in. 

 12. 40 p. M. 29. 88 82 75

 3 p. M. 29. 85 83 76 Warm and cloudy. 

Weather threatening. The same storm that found us at Makná last year. 

April 15. " - - - Water flooded pier, and waves broke on shore. 

April 16. " - - - Ran to El-Muwaylah. Had to return to Sharm Yáhárr. Furious wind from west (Gharbi) began about nine a. M. 

April 17. Noon. 29. 98 77 65 In captain's cabin, Sharm Yáhárr. 

 3 p. M. 29. 92 76 65

Wind changed to north. Weather became cool and pleasant. Gale still, butshows signs of abating. 

On April 18th weather somewhat abated. Stopped at El-Mawaylah to drop Sayyid'Abd el-Rahim; and steamed off for Suez, where we arrived on 20th. Voyagevery slow in teeth of north wind. Yet at Suez had had south wind for somedays, and congratulated us upon the fact. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN BY MR. DAVID DUGUID, BETWEEN JANUARY 8 AND FEBRUARY 1, 1878. 

(He used the French aneroide and the Centigrade thermometer bought at Cairo. )

Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. Millimetres. Centigrade. (deg. )

Jan. 8. Noon. 768 25 At Sharmá camp. 

Jan. 9. Noon. 768 25 Ditto. 

Jan. 10. Noon. 761 26 Ditto. 

Jan. 11. Noon. 763 19 Ditto. 

Jan. 12. Noon. 763 19 Ditto. 

Jan. 13. Noon. 760 30 Ditto. Very hot. 

Jan. 14. Daylight 760 20 (?) 755 25 Very hot. 8 p. M. 758 23

Jan. 15. (?) 757 21 (?) 757 25 Hot. Nightfall 759 20

Jan. 16. Daylight 762 18 Mr. Duguid marched from Sharmá to El-Muwaylah. 

Jan. 17. Sunset. 768 25 On board Mukhbir at Sharm Yáhárr. 

Jan. 18. Sunrise. 766 22 On board Mukhbir. (?) 766 23 Ditto. Sunset. 764 28 Ditto. Hot. 

ON BOARD. 

Jan. 19. Sunrise. 763 21 Noon. 762 25 Sunset. 763 25

Jan. 20. Sunrise. 761 21 Noon. 762 25 Nightfall 762 28 Hot

Jan. 21. Sunrise. 763 23 Bad weather at Sharm Yáhárr. Noon. 763 24 Sunset. 767 25

Jan. 22. Sunrise. 769 19 Mukhbir delayed by bad weather. Noon. 768 24

Jan. 24. Noon. 767 24

Mr. Duguid steamed out of Yáhárr for Makná. Anchored off Sináfir Island. 

Jan. 25. Sunrise. 767 23 Reached Makná. Noon. 766 24 Sunset. 765 25

Jan. 26. Sunrise. 764 23 On board Mukhbir. Noon. 763 27 Sunset. 763 29

Jan. 27. Sunrise. 765 22 Ditto. Noon. 763 23 Sunset. 763 27

Jan. 28. Sunrise. 763 21 Ditto. Noon. 762 24 Sunset. 762 22

Jan. 29. Sunrise. 763 20 Ditto. Noon. 762 22 Sunset. 762 23

Jan. 30. Sunrise. 766 20 Ditto. Noon. 764 24 Sunset. 765 24

Jan. 31. Sunrise. 765 22 Ditto. Noon. 764 23 Sunset. 764 23

Feb. 1. Sunrise. 765 21 Ditto. Noon. 764 22

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "MUKHBIR, " BY MR DAVID DUGUID (DURING OUR SECONDJOURNEY), BETWEEN FEBRUARY 18 AND MARCH 8, 1878. 

Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. Millimetres. Centigrade. (deg. )

Feb. 18. 7 a. M. 764 18 Clear sky. Light breeze. Noon. 763 23 Same weather. 5 p. M. 764 23 Clear sky. Good breeze. 

Feb. 19. 7 a. M. 764 20 Clear sky. Light wind. Noon. 764 23 Light wind. Few clouds in east. 5 p. M. 764 24 Clear sky. Light wind. 

Feb. 20. 7 a. M. 765 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. Noon. 765 21 Clear sky. Light north-west wind. 5 p. M. 764 23 Clear sky. Light east wind. 

Feb. 21. 7 a. M. 765 20 White clouds all round. Light east wind. Noon. 766 23 Few clouds to south. Light north-west wind. 

Feb. 22. 7 a. M. 765 20 Few clouds to east. Light west wind. Noon. 764 22 Few clouds to east. Good north-west breeze. 5 p. M. 764 22 Few clouds to west. Light north wind. 

Feb. 23. 7 a. M. 764 19 Clouds to south-west. No wind. Noon. 765 21 Clouds to east. Light north-west wind. 5 p. M. 765 22 Few clouds to east. Light north-west wind. 

Feb. 24. 7 a. M. 767 19 Clear sky. No wind. Noon. 768 22 Clear sky. Light north wind. 5 p. M. 768 24 Same weather. 

Feb. 25 7 a. M. 769 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. Noon. 769 22 Clear sky. Light west wind. 5 p. M. 768 24 Clear sky. No wind. 

Feb. 26. 7 a. M. 766 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. 5 p. M. 766 20 Same weather. 

Feb. 27. 7 a. M. 762 20 Few clouds to south. Light north-east wind. Noon. 762 23 Clear sky. Light north wind. 5 p. M. 761 25 Clear sky. Light west wind. 

Feb. 28. 5. P. M. 764 23 Heavy clouds to west. Strong west wind. 

Mar. 1. 7 a. M. 767 20 Few clouds in south. Light north wind. Noon. 767 23 Clear sky. Good north-west breeze. 5 p. M. 765 22 Few clouds to west. Light wind from west. 

Mar. 2. 7 a. M. 765 20 Clouds all round. Light east wind. Noon. 765 23 Clouds all round. Light west wind. 5 p. M. 764 24 Clouds all round. Light north wind. 

Mar. 3. 7 a. M. 762 20 Few clouds to east. No wind. Noon. 763 22 Few clouds to south. Good north-west breeze. 5 p. M. 763 23 Few clouds to north. Good west breeze. 

Mar. 4. 7 a. M. 767 21 Clear sky. Light breeze from east. Noon. 768 23 Clear sky. Light breeze from west. 5 p. M. 767 24 Clear sky. Light breeze from north. 

Mar. 5. 7 a. M. 764 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. Noon. 764 22 Clear sky. Good breeze from east. 5 p. M. 762 25 Light clouds all round. North-west wind. 

Mar. 6. 7 a. M. 763 20 Heavy clouds to east. Light east wind. Noon. 763 23 A few clouds to east. Light west wind. 5 p. M. 762 24 Dark clouds all round. Strong west wind. At ten p. M. Gale from west, with some flashes of lightning. 

Mar. 7. 7 a. M. 766 19 Clouds to south. Wind north. Noon. 767 23 Clear sky. Good breeze from north-west. 5 p. M. 766 24 Clear sky. Wind north. 

Mar. 8. 7 a. M. 763 19 Clear sky. Light east wind. Noon. 763 23 Clear sky. Light west wind. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "MUKHBIR, " BY MR. DAVID DUGUID (DURING OUR WEEK IN EL-SHÁRR), BETWEEN MARCH 13 AND MARCH 19, 1878. 

Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. Millimetres. Centigrade. (deg. )

Mar. 13. 6 a. M. 762 25 Clear sky. Good breeze. Wind west. Noon. 761 26 Clear sky. Light breeze. Wind west. 

Mar. 14. 6 a. M. 762 21 Light clouds all over. Wind east. Light breeze. Noon. 764 24 Same cloudy weather, but wind from east (?). 3 p. M. 763 26 Light clouds all round. Wind west and light. 

Mar. 15. 6 a. M. 762 21 A few clouds to south. Wind east and light. Noon. 761 26 Light clouds all round. Moderate breeze from west. 3 p. M. 760 27-1/2 Same weather. 

Mar. 16. 6 a. M. 760 24 A few clouds to south. Light east wind. Noon. 760 26 Clear sky. Wind south-west. Light breeze. 3 p. M. 759 29 Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. 

Mar. 17. 6 a. M. 759 24 Clear sky. Light breeze from east. Noon. 760 26 Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. 3 p. M. 760 27 Same weather. 

Mar. 18. 6 a. M. 760 23 Same weather, by wind west. Noon. - - Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. 

Mar. 19. 6 a. M. 759 23 Few clouds to north. Wind east, and very light. Noon. 758 19 Clouds to north-west. Good breeze from west. 3 p. M. 758 29 Clouds all round. Wind south-west. Good breeze. 

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR, " BY CAPTAIN NÁSIR AHMED, BETWEEN MARCH 29 ANDAPRIL 10, 1878. 

Date. Time. Mercurial Thermometer. Remarks. Barometer. Fahr. 

Mar. 29. 6 a. M. 30. 7 64 Noon. 30. 7 76 3 p. M. 30. 7 76

Mar. 30. 6 a. M. 30. 00 61 White clouds to north-east. Wind north-east. Noon. 30. 05 77 3 p. M. 30. 00 80 Air very damp from noon to sunset. Wind west. 

Mar. 31. 6 a. M. 29. 9 63 Wind north-east. Never saw barometer so low. Noon. 30. 00 80 Dry and fine. 3 p. M. 29. 98 82

April 1. 6 a. M. 29. 94 66 Wind east. Fine day. Noon. 29. 95 83 3 p. M. 29. 92 83 Damp from noon to sunset. 

April 2. 6 a. M. 29. 90 68 Wind east. Fine day. Noon. 30. 00 80 Damp. 3 p. M. 29. 90 81 Red clouds at sunset. 

Gale of wind at El-Wijh from north-east, began at seven p. M. Ship under shelter. Rain for halfan hour. 

April 3. 6 a. M. 30. 00 69 Wind north. Noon. 30. 20 80 Damp. 3 p. M. 30. 00 79 Wind north-west at sunset. 

April 4. 6 a. M. 30. 00 73 Wind north-west. Noon. 30. 03 76 Wind north-west all day. 3 p. M. 30. 00 77

Storm on seaboard. Heavy clouds, wind, and gale all day from north-west. Sinnár rolling. 

April 5. 6 a. M. 29. 93 66 Wind north-west. Noon. 30. 00 76 Wind north-west. 3 p. M. 30. 00 75 Fine day. 

April 6. 6 a. M. 29. 93 62 Wind north. Noon. 30. 00 74 Wind north-west. 3 p. M. 30. 00 74 Same weather. 

April 7. 6 a. M. 29. 94 64 Wind north. Noon. 30. 00 79 Fine day. 3 p. M. 30. 00 76 Wind north-west from noon to sunset. Fine weather. 

April 8. 6 a. M. 30. 02 61 Wind east. Noon. 30. 04 73 Fine day. 3 p. M. 30. 04 78 From noon to sunset, fine but damp. 

April 9. 6 a. M. 30. 04 68 Wind east. Noon. 30. 06 77 3 p. M. 30. 06 81 Damp from noon to sunset. 

April 10. 6 a. M. 30. 06 64 Wind north. Fine day. Damp and north-west wind from noon to sunset. 

CAIRO. 

Reaching Cairo, I found Dr. T. E. Maclean from Thebes, with good instruments. He kindly comparedmine with his, and gave me the following results:--The difference between my aneroid (Casella)and his is very slight, varying generally from 0. 05 to -0. 10. He advises me to neglect thisslight difference. The dry bulb is, on the whole, a little higher than his; and we have notsufficient observations for the wet bulb. The pocket thermometer wants correction; it reads from+1 deg. To +2 deg. 15'. 

LIST OF OBSERVATIONS. 

N&Z = Negretti and ZambraNo obs. = No observation. 

Date. Time. N&Z's My Differ- Casellás Differ- N&Z's Casellás Differ- N&Z's Casellás Differ-(1878) standard Casella. Ence for portable ence for dry bulb. Dry bulb. Ence. Wet wet ence for aneroid. Correc- thermo- correc- No. Bulb. Bulb. Correc- No. 1140. Tions. Meter tions. 39, 518. Tions. (deg. ). 

April 28. 12. 30p. M. No obs. No obs. - 91 -1. 6 89. 4 90. 0 -0. 6 71. 75 71. 0 +0. 75 3p. M. No obs. No obs. - 84 -2. 1 81. 9 82. 5 -0. 6 69. 0 69. 0 0. 0 6. 30p. M. No obs. No obs. - 73 -2. 5 70. 5 71. 0 -0. 5 61. 0 61. 0 0. 0

April 29. 9a. M. No obs. No obs. - 69 -2. 4 66. 6 67. 0 -0. 4 59. 1 59. 0 +0. 1 11. 30p. M. 29. 796 29. 850 -. 054 77. 5 -2. 0 75. 5 76. 0 -0. 5 63. 5 64. 0 -0. 5 3p. M. 29. 755 29. 752 +. 003 77. 5 -1. 5 76. 0 76. 0 0. 0 62. 75 62. 0 -0. 75

April 30. 9a. M. 29. 828 29. 850 -. 022 67. 5 -2. 15 65. 0 66. 0 -1. 0 59. 5 60. 5 -1. 0 12. 30p. M. 29. 822 29. 850 -. 028 76 -1. 5 74. 5 75. 0 -0. 5 63. 75 63. 5 +0. 25 3p. M. 29. 799 29. 802 -. 003 77 -2. 0 75. 0 73. 5 -0. 5 64. 0 58. 0 +1. 5

May 1. 9a. M. 29. 959 30. 100 -. 141 66. 5 -1. 75 64. 75 65. 5 -0. 75 57. 5 58. 0 -0. 5 12. 30p. M. 29. 945 29. 952 -. 007 76 -2. 5 73. 5 74. 5 -1. 0 61. 5 62. 0 -0. 5 3p. M. 29. 984 29. 902 +. 082 77. 5 -1. 75 75. 75 76. 5 -0. 75 61. 75 61. 5 +0. 25

May 2. 9a. M. 30. 051 30. 102 -. 051 66 -1. 25 64. 75 65. 0 -0. 25 58. 0 58. 5 -0. 5 12. 30p. M. 29. 978 30. 000 -. 022 78 -2. 0 76. 0 76. 0 0. 0 63. 0 66. 5 -2. 5 3p. M. 29. 936 29. 950 -. 014 78 -1. 5 76. 5 No obs. - 63. 75 No obs. -

May 3. 9a. M. 29. 961 29. 952 +. 009 71. 5 -1. 5 70. 0 No obs. - 58. 5 No obs. - 12. 30p. M. 29. 880 29. 900 -. 020 83 -2. 5 80. 5 81. 0 -0. 5 63. 23 62. 0 +1. 25 3p. M. 29. 820 29. 850 -. 030 83 -1. 1 81. 9 82. 5 -0. 6 62. 0 62. 5 -0. 5

May 4. 9a. M. 29. 716 29. 750 -. 024 71. 5 -1. 25 70. 25 71. 0 -0. 75 63. 25 63. 0 +0. 25 12. 30p. M. 29. 679 29. 700 -. 021 89. 5 -1. 25 87. 75 88. 0 -0. 25 70. 25 69. 5 +0. 75 3. 30p. M. 29. 617 29. 650 -. 033 89. 5 -1. 0 88. 5 89. 0 -0. 5 70. 0 69. 0 +1. 0

May 5. 9. 30a. M. 29. 586 29. 600 -. 014 76. 5 -1. 5 75. 0 No obs. - No obs. No obs. - 12. 30p. M. No obs. No obs. - 83 -2. 0 81. 0 82. 0 -1. 0 69. 75 68. 5 +1. 25 3p. M. 29. 603 29. 602 -. 001 82 -1. 5 80. 5 81. 0 -0. 5 69. 0 67. 0 +2. 0

May 6. 9a. M. 29. 780 29. 800 -. 020 70 -1. 75 68. 25 69. 0 -0. 75 63. 0 63. 0 0. 0 12. 30p. M. 29. 785 29. 800 -. 015 77 -2. 0 75. 0 76. 0 -1. 0 65. 25 65. 0 +0. 25 3p. M. 29. 778 29. 800 -. 022 79 -2. 0 77. 0 77. 5 -0. 5 67. 5 66. 0 +1. 5

May 7. 9a. M. 29. 854 29. 850 +. 004 67 -2. 0 65. 0 66. 0 -1. 0 60. 75 61. 0 -0. 25 12. 30p. M. 29. 822 29. 802 -. 020 80. 5 -1. 5 79. 0 79. 0 0. 0 66. 0 65. 0 +1. 0

 Endnotes:

[EN#1] The word is explained in my "Itineraries, " part ii. Sect. 3. 

[EN#2] See Appendix IV. "Botanical Notes. "

[EN#3] "Opens, " i. E. The door for a higher price: it is the usualformula of refusing to sell. 

[EN#4] Chap. XVI. 

[EN#5] The Saturday Review, in a courteous notice of my firstvolume (May 25, 1878), has the following remarks:--"The Arabstalk of some (?) Nazarenes, and a 'King of the Franks, ' havingbuilt the stone huts and the tombs in a neighbouring cemetery('Aynúnah). But there can be no local tradition worth repeatingin this instance. " Here we differ completely; and those willagree with me who know how immutable and, in certain cases, imperishable Arab tradition is. The reviewer, true, speaks ofNorth Midian, where all the tribes, except the Beni 'Ukbah, arenew. Yet legend can survive the destruction and disappearance ofa race: witness the folk-traditions of the North-Eastern Italiansand the adjacent Slavs. Here, however, in South Midian we have anancient race, the Baliyy. And what strengthens the Christianlegend is that it is known to man, woman, and child throughoutthe length and breadth of the land. 

[EN#6] In Sinai "Shinnár" is also applied to a partridge, but Iam unable to distinguish the species--caccabis, Desert partridge, (Ammoperdix heyi, the Arab Hajl), or the black partridge(Francolinus vulgaris). 

[EN#7] Chap. IX. Has already noticed Ptolemy's short measure. 

[EN#8] Chap. XVII. 

[EN#9] Helix desertorum (Forsk. ) and Helix (sp. Incert. )

[EN#10] See "The Gold Mines of Midian, '' Chap. II. 

[EN#11] So in Moab the ruins of "Méron" or Mérou of the Greekshas degenerated into Umm Rasás, "the Mother of Lead. "

[EN#12] Their names will be given in Chap. XIII. 

[EN#13] A. G. , p. 24. See "The Gold-Mines of Midian, " Chap. XI. Sprenger spells the word either with a Zád or a Zá: I havediscussed the question in my "Itineraries, " part ii. Sect. 4. 

[EN#14] See the end of this Chapter for a list. 

[EN#15] See Chap. XIV. 

[EN#16] "Irwin's Voyage, " 1777. 

[EN#17] This was probably a misprint originally, but it has beenrepeated in subsequent editions. Hence it imposed upon even suchcareful workmen as the late Lieutenant Henry Raper, "The Practiceof Navigation, " etc. , p. 527, 6th edition. 

[EN#18] See an excellent description of the phenomenon in thathonest and courageous work, "Through Bosnia and the Herzegovinaon Foot, " by Arthur J. Evans, B. A. , F. S. A. London: Longmans, 1877. 

[EN#19] There is, however, nothing to prevent its being eaten. 

[EN#20] See Chap. X. 

[EN#21] Chap. X. 

[EN#22] Not to be confounded with the luguminous "Tanúb"mentioned by Forskâl ("Flora, " etc. , p. 197). 

[EN#23] The word classically means the cypress or thejuniper-tree: in Jeremiah, where it occurs twice (xvii. 6 andxlviii. 6), the Authorized Version renders it by "heath. " It isnow generally translated "savin" (Juniperus sabina), a shrubwhose purple berries have a strong turpentine flavour. When shallwe have a reasonable version of Hebrew Holy Writ, which willretain the original names of words either untranslatable or to betranslated only by guess-work?

[EN#24] In Cairo generally called Espadrilles, and sold for 1. 25francs. Nothing punishes the feet at these altitudes so much asleather, black leather. 

[EN#25] The explorers laid this down at a few hundred feet. Butthey judged from the eye; and probably they did not sight thetrue culmination. Unfortunately, and by my fault, they were notprovided with an aneroid. 

[EN#26] See Chap. V. 

[EN#27] For the usual interpretations see Chapter I. TheEgyptians, like other nations, often apply their own names, whichhave a meaning, to the older terms which have becomeunintelligible. Thus, near Cairo, the old goddess, Athor el-Núbí("of the Gold"), became Asr el-Nabi ("the Footprint of theApostle"). 

[EN#28] "The Gold-Mines of Midian, " Chap. XI. 

[EN#29] See Chap. XI. 

[EN#30] Chap. XII. 

[EN#31] Chap XV. 

[EN#32] Chap. XV. 

[EN#33] Vol. Ii. Chap. X. I have also quoted him in "TheGold-Mines of Midian, " Chap. VI. 

[EN#34] My "Pilgrimage" (Vol. I. Chap. XI. ) called it "ShermDamghah": it is the "Demerah" of Moresby and the "Demeg" of 'AliBey el-'Abbási (the unfortunate Spaniard Badia). 

[EN#35] See "The Gold-Mines of Midian, " Chap. VII. 

[EN#36] The old being the classical (Iambia Vicus), innorth lat. 24°. This is Yambú' el-Nakhil, in Ptolemy's time aseaport, now fifteen miles to the north-east (north lat. 24° 12'3"?) of the modern town. The latter lies in north lat. 24° 5' 30"(Wellsted, ii. II), and, according to the Arabs, six hours' marchfrom the sea. 

[EN#37] Vol. I. Pp. 364, 365. 

[EN#38] "The Gold-Mines of Midian, " Chap. IX. 

[EN#39] Chap. VI. Describes one of the sporadic (?) outcrops nearTayyib Ism; and Chap. IX notices the apparently volcanicsulphur-mount near El-Muwaylah. 

[EN#40] See Chap. IX. 

[EN#41] "The Gold-Mines of Midian, " Chap. XII. 

[EN#42] See "The Gold-Mines of Midian, " Chap. VIII. 

[EN#43] "Pilgrimage, " Vol. I. Chap. XI. 

[EN#44] In "The Gold Mines of Midian" (Chap. IV. ) I unconsciouslyre-echoed the voice of the vulgar about "the harbour being badand the water worse" at El-Wijh. 

[EN#45] This style of writing reminds me of the inch allah(Inshallah!) in the pages of a learned "war correspondent"--arace whose naive ignorance and whose rare self-sufficiency socompletely perverted public opinion during the Russo-Turkish warof 1877-78. 

[EN#46] Not Shaykh Hasan el-Marábit--"Pilgrimage, " Vol. I. Chap. XI. 

[EN#47] "Pilgrimage, " Vol. I. Chap. XI. , where it is erroneouslycalled "Jebel Hasan;" others prefer Hasa'ni--equally wrong. Voyagers put in here to buy fish, which formerly was dried, salted, and sent to Egypt; and, during the Hajj season, theJuhaynah occupy a long straggling village of huts on the southside of the island. 

[EN#48] There are now no less than three lines of steamers thatconnect the western coast of Arabia with the north. The first isthe Egyptian Company, successively called Mejidíyyah, Azízíyyah, and Khedivíyyah, from its chief actionnaire: the packets, mostlythree-masted screws, start from Suez to Jeddah every fortnight. Secondly, the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd which, with the subventionof Ł1400 per voyage, began in 1870 to ply monthly betweenConstantinople, Port Sa'íd, Suez, Jeddah, and Hodaydah: it hasbeen suspended since the beginning of the Russo-Turkish war. Thirdly, the British India Steam Navigation Company sends everythree weeks a ship from London viâ the Canal to Jeddah, Hodaydah, and Aden. A fourth is proposed; Bymen's (Winan's?) steamers areestablishing a London-Basrah (Bassorah) line, in whose itinerarywill be Jeddah. 

[EN#49] The observation was taken on board the Sinnár, by thefirst lieutenant Násir Effendi Ahmed: of course I am notanswerable for its correctness, although the latitude cannot befar out. Thus the difference of parallel between it and El-Wijh(north lat. 26° 14') would be sixty-eight direct geographicalmiles. 

[EN#50] Beni Kalb: so the Juhaynah were called in the Apostle'sday. 

[EN#51] The site was probably near the Shaykh's tomb, where thereare wells which in winter supply water. 

[EN#52] This is the volume which I have translated: see also Dr. Beke's papers in the Athenćum (February 8 and 15, 1873). 

[EN#53] See "Mount Sinai a Volcano" (Tinsleys). For a list ofYakut's volcanoes, see Dr. Beke, "Sinai in Arabia, " Appendix, p. 535. 

[EN#54] Vol. II. P. 187. 

[EN#55] "The Gold-Mines of Midian, " p. 213. 

[EN#56] As regards these and similar graffiti see (Athenaeum, March 16, 1878) an excerpt from the last Comptes Rendues of theAcad. Des Inscript. Et B. Lettres, Paris. The celebrated M. Joseph Halévy attacked in their entirety (about 680) therock-writings in the Safá desert, south-east of Damascus. TheGerman savants, mostly attributing them to the Sabá tribes, whoimmigrated from Yemen about our first century, tried theHimyaritic syllabaries and failed. M. Halévy traces them to theBeni Tamúd (Thamudites), who served as mercenaries in the Romanarmy, and whose head-quarters we are now approaching. Theycontain, according to him, mostly proper names, with devotionalformulae, similar to those of the Sinaitic inscriptions and theKufic and later epigraphs which we discovered. For instance, "ByA. , son of B. , in memory of his mother; he has accomplished hisvow, may he be pardoned. " The language is held to be intermediatebetween Arabic and the northern Semitic branches. Names of theDeity (El and Loo or La'?) are found only in composition, as inAbd-El ("Abdallah, slave of El"); and the significant absence ofthe cross and religious symbols remarked in the Syrianinscriptions, denotes the era of heathenism, which lasted tillthe establishment of Christianity, about the end of the thirdcentury. "At that time, " M. Halévy says, "Christianity became theofficial religion of the Empire; doubt and scepticism penetratedamongst those Arabic tribes which were the allies of Rome, andamongst whom, for a certain time, a kind of vague Deism wasprevalent until the day when they disappeared, having beenabsorbed by the great migrations which had taken place in thosecountries. "

[EN#57] Some call it so; others Umm Karáyát: I have preferred theformer--"Mother of the Villages, " not "of Villages"--as beingperhaps the more common. 

[EN#58] See Chap. XIX. 

[EN#59] Vol. II. Chap. X. 

[EN#60] This rock, assayed in England, produced no preciousmetal. As has been said, gold was found in its containing wallsof quartz. 

[EN#61] This is the valley confounded by Wallin and those whofollowed him (e. G. Keith Johnston) with the Wady Hamz, some fortymiles to the south. 

[EN#62] See the illustration, "Desert of the Exodus, " p. 306. 

[EN#63] Vol. II. Chap. X. 

[EN#64] Described in "The Gold-Mines of Midian, " Chap. XII. 

[EN#65] Chap. XVIII. 

[EN#66] The barbarous names, beginning from the west, are JebelsSehayyir, 'Unká ("of the griffon"), Marákh (name of a shrub), Genayy (Jenayy), El-Hazzah, El-Madhanah, Buza'mah, and Urnuwah. 

[EN#67] Dr. C. Carter Blake examined the four brought home, andidentified No. 1, superior pharyngeal bone and teeth (Scarus);No. 2, inferior bone and teeth of a large fish allied to Labrusor Chrysophrys; No. 3, left side, pre-maxillary, possibly samespecies; and No. 4, lower right mandible of Sphśrodongrandoculis, Rüppell. 

[EN#68] The MS. Of this geographer was brought to light byProfessor Sprenger, and Part I. Has been published by Professorde Goeje in his "Bibliotheca Geographarum Arabicorum, " herealluded to. 

[EN#69] We have seen (Chap. II. ) that the Arabs of Midian mistakeiron for antimony; and the same is the case in the SinaiticPeninsula. 

[EN#70] Ahmed Kaptán's solar observation. 

[EN#71] Written in pleasant memory of two visits to Uriconium, the favourite "find" of poor Thomas Wright, under the guidance ofour steadfast and hospitable friend, Mr. Henry Wace, ofBrooklands, Shrewsbury. 

[EN#72] The capital was also transported to Cairo; it could nothave been voluted as there were only two projections. 

[EN#73] Lib. Xvi. C. Iv. § 24. The MSS. Differ in the name of the"village situated on the sea;" some call it Egra, others Negra, after the inland settlement; and the commentator Kramer remarks, Mire corrupta est h?c ultima libri pars. 

[EN#74] North lat. 26°, which would correspond with that of theAbá'l-Maru' ruins. 

[EN#75] My friend Sprenger strongly protests against ĆliusGallus, begging me to abandon him, as the Romans must long haveheld the whole coast to El-Haurá, their chief settlement. 

[EN#76] For a specimen of the superficiality which characterizesLane's "Modern Egyptians, " and of the benefits which, despite theproverbial difficulty of changing an old book into a new one, anedition, much enlarged and almost rewritten, would confer uponstudents, see Vol. III. Chap. XXI. Instead of a short abstract ofall this celebrated story, we have only popular excerpts from thefirst volume. 

[EN#77] On the maritime road between Meccah and El-Medínah, celebrated for the apostolic battle which took place in A. H. 2. 

[EN#78] The names marked with interrogations are unknown to allthe Arabs whom I consulted : they are probably obsolete. 

[EN#79] Identified by Niebuhr and Wellsted with certains ruinssouth of Yambú'. See Chap. IV. 

[EN#80] The straight path, the highway to Egypt or Cairo. 

[EN#81] Elsewhere called Sukyat Yezíd, a name now forgotten. 

[EN#82] I have remarked that the name of the Patriarch Jacob isno longer connected with the Badá plain. 

[EN#83] Schweinfurth (the Athenćum, July 6, 1878) speaks of a"Wadi Abu Marwa ('Quartz Valley')" south of the Galalah block. 

[EN#84] Chap. IX. 

[EN#85] A paper describing our "finds" was read before theAnthropological Section of the British Association Meeting atDublin on August 21, 1878, and subsequently before theAnthropological Institute of London (December 10, 1878). 

[EN#86] The following was the announcement offered to thepublic:--

"La collection minéralogique et archéologique rapportée par leCapitaine Burton, de sa seconde Expédition au pays de Midian, estexposée dans les salles de l'Hippodrome, avant d'ętre envoyée ŕl'Exposition Universelle de Paris, sous la direction de M. G. Marie, inge'nieur des mines. 

"La salle du sud renferme les croquis et les aquarelles faits parM. E. Lacaze. 

"La partie du nord commence avec Akabah, point extręme atteintpar l'Expédition; elle contient les résultats du premier voyagede l'Expédition, c'est-ŕ-dire: Shermá, Djebel el-Abiat, Aynouneh, Moghair-Schuaib, Mokna et Akabah. 

"Le mur de l'est contient tout ce qui se rapporte ŕ la secondeexploration, c'est-ŕ-dire l'Hismá et le grand massif du Shárr. 

"Le mur du sud contient les principaux points de vue pris au suddu pays de Midian: Wedje, la forteresse, la montagne deOmm-el-Karáyát, travaillée par les anciens, la mine de Ommel-Hárab, le temple antique, etc. , etc. 

"Sur la table sont les médailles et la collection anthropologiquefait par le Capitaine Burton. 

"La salle du nord contient la collection géologique etminéralogique faite par M. G. Marie; les minéraux sont classéssuivant l'ordre des pays parcourus, c'est-ŕ-dire en commencant ŕAkabah et finissant au Ouadi Hamz, frontičre du Hedjaz. 

"Tout autour de la salle sont rangées les vingt caisses contenantdes échantillons que Son Altesse le Khédive envoie en Angleterrepour y ętre analysés. Prčs de la porte de l'est sont placés lesrestes du temple de l'Ouadi Hamz, les moulins pour écraser lequartz, les briques réfractaires, et enfin les inscriptionsNabathéennes. 

"Dans les loges de l'Hippodrome, derričre les deux salles, sontdéposés environ quinze tonnes d'échantillons, destinčs a ętreanalysés par une Commission locale, nommée par Son Altesse leKhédive. "

[EN#87] M. Marie, Ł35 12s. ; Haji Wali, Ł23; M. Philipin, Ł12 4s. ;M. Lacaze, Ł3 16s. 

[EN#88] Starting with a hundred camels and three Shaykhs. 

[EN#89] For all hands. 

[EN#90] Includes "bakhshísh. "

[EN#91] Sixty-one camels, four Shaykhs. 

[EN#92] For all hands. 

[EN#93] Fifty camels, three Shaykhs. 

[EN#94] For all hands. 

[EN#95] Got from Mukhbir. 

[EN#96] Fifty-eight camels, three Shaykhs. 

[EN#97] For all hands. 

[EN#98] Includes "bakhshísh. "

[EN#99] Six months' pay. 

[EN#100] Four months. 

[EN#101] Four months and a half. 

[EN#102] Employed on special service. 

End of The Land of Midian, (Revisited) By Richard F. Burton, Volume 2.