[Illustration: THE SETTLEMENT]

THREE YEARS IN TRISTAN DA CUNHA

BY

K. M. BARROWWife of the Rev. J. G. Barrow, Missionary Clergyman in Tristan Da Cunhaand fellow-worker with him on that island. 

With thirty-seven original illustrations from photographs, and a map. 

TO THE READER

The aim of the following pages is to give a simple and true description ofdaily life among a very small community cut off from the rest of theworld. 

No attempt is made at literary style, the language being almost entirelythat of letters to a sister or of my journal. 

In the first and third chapters free use has been made of the _Blue Book_(Cd. 3098), September 1906; and of the _Africa Pilot_, Part II, FifthEdition, 1901. 

I desire gratefully to acknowledge to Mr. Casper Keytel of Monille Point, Cape Town, his very kind permission to use the excellent photographs takenby him; and also my indebtedness to my husband for help in the revision ofthese pages. 

K. M. B. 

1910

MAP OF THE ISLAND OF TRISTAN DE CUNHA [* OCR image only shows title]

CONTENTS

AUTHOR'S PREFACEMAP OF ISLAND OF TRISTAN DA CUNHACHAPTER ICHAPTER IICHAPTER IIICHAPTER IVCHAPTER VCHAPTER VICHAPTER VIICHAPTER VIIICHAPTER IXCHAPTER XCHAPTER XICHAPTER XIICHAPTER XIIICHAPTER XIVCHAPTER XVCHAPTER XVICHAPTER XVIICHAPTER XVIIICHAPTER XIXCHAPTER XXCHAPTER XXICHAPTER XXIICHAPTER XXIIICHAPTER XXIVCHAPTER XXVCHAPTER XXVICHAPTER XXVIICHAPTER XXVIIICHAPTER XXIXCHAPTER XXXCHAPTER XXXICHAPTER XXXIICHAPTER XXXIIICHAPTER XXXIVCHAPTER XXXVCHAPTER XXXVICHAPTER XXXVII

APPENDICESA. THE FAUNA AND FLORA OF TRISTANB. THE WEATHERC. SOME TRISTAN WORDS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

I THE SETTLEMENT [_Frontispiece_]II THE PEAK SHOWING ABOVE CLOUDSIII BETTY COTTON'S HOUSE (FRONT), OUR NEW HOMEIV BETTY COTTON'S HOUSE (BACK)V THE WATERFALLVI MOCCASINSVII THE CEMETERYVIII HILL TOP. INACCESSIBLE IN THE DISTANCEIX THE FLAGSTAFFX GOING WESTXI IN SCHOOLXII BIG BEACHXIII THE HENRY GREEN FAMILY AT WORK ON A POTATO PATCHXIV A PAIR OF PENGUINSXV EARLY MORNING FROM THE WEST, SHOWING SNOW IN CREVASSE, NEAR PEAKXVI BUGSBY HOLEXVII THE CRATER LAKEXVIII ON THE SUMMIT OF THE PEAKXIX COMPLETE GROUP OF THE ISLANDERSXX A GROUP OF ALL THE MENXXI THE PATH OF PLANTATION GULCHXXII CATTLE, NEAR POTATO PATCHESXXIII A PENGUIN ROOKERYXXIV SHEEP BEING DRIVEN HOMEXXV OUR BATHING PLACE (LITTLE BEACH)XXVI THE OLD CHURCH HOUSEXXVII LANDING GOODSXXVIII MRS. REPETTO FISHINGXXIX MR. KEYTEL'S HOUSEXXX FRESHWATER CAVEXXXI MOLLYHAWK ON ITS NESTXXXII NEARLY FINISHEDXXXIII THE KETCHXXXIV FISH-CLEANINGXXXV HOTTENTOT GULCHXXXVI ALL THE WOMEN AND CHILDRENXXXVII ORANGES AND LEMONS

THREE YEARS IN TRISTAN DA CUNHA

CHAPTER I

Tristan da Cunha, a British possession, is an island-mountain of volcanicorigin in the South Atlantic ocean. Latitude 37° 5' 50" S. ; longitude 12°16' 40" W. Circular in form. Circumference about 21 miles. Diameter about7 miles. Height 7, 640 feet. Volcano extinct during historic times. Discovered by the Portuguese navigator Tristan da Cunha, 1506. Occupied bythe British, 1816. Nearest inhabited land, the island of St. Helena, 1, 200miles to the N. 

In the autumn of 1904 we saw in the _Standard_ a letter which arrested ourattention. It was an appeal for some one to go to the Island of Tristan daCunha, as the people had had no clergyman for seventeen years. 

Now, Tristan da Cunha was not an unknown name to us, for as a child myhusband loved to hear his mother tell of her shipwreck on Inaccessible, anuninhabited island twenty-five miles south-west of Tristan da Cunha. 

She, then a child of four, and her nurse were passengers on the _BlendonHall_, which left London for India in May 1821, and was wrecked during adense fog on Inaccessible, July 23. The passengers and crew drifted ashoreon spars and fragments of the vessel. Two of the crew perished, and nearlyall the stores were lost. For four months they lived on this desolateisland. A tent made out of sails was erected on the shore to protect thewomen and children from the cold and rain. They lived almost entirely onthe eggs of sea-birds. 

After waiting some time in hope of being seen by a ship, they made a raftfrom the remains of the wreck, and eight of the crew set off in it to tryto reach Tristan, but were never heard of again, poor fellows. A few weekslater a second and successful attempt was made. The men reached Tristan, but in a very exhausted state. Then the Tristanites, led by CorporalGlass, manned their boats, and at great personal risk succeeded infetching off the rest of the crew and passengers, who remained on Tristantill January 9, 1822, on which day a passing English brig took them to theCape of Good Hope. 

This was eighty-four years ago. And now the son of that little shipwreckedgirl was seriously thinking of going out to minister to the children ofher rescuers. Here I may mention that in the whole of their history, from1816 to 1906, they had had only two clergymen living amongst them. 

The first to go out was the Rev. W. F. Taylor, under the S. P. G. In 1851, ayoung London warehouseman who had not long been ordained. It is related byone of the passengers of the ship in which Mr. Taylor was sailing that themaster of the vessel had great difficulty in locating the island, and thatfor three days they cruised about and saw nothing resembling land. Thethird day towards evening the skipper gave up the search and headed forthe Cape. Mr. Taylor, who was gazing towards the setting sun suddenly sawthe Peak of Tristan, which is 7, 640 feet high, emerge out of the clouds. It was about ninety miles away. The captain turned back, and his passengerwas safely landed. Mr. Taylor stayed there some five years. On hisdeparture he induced about forty-five of the islanders to accompany him toCape Colony, where they settled down. 

The second clergyman, also in connection with the S. P. G. , was the Rev. E. H. Dodgson, a brother of "Lewis Carroll. " He arrived in December 1880 fromSt. Helena, and landed in safety, but the ship was driven ashore and helost nearly all his clothing and books. One of the very few things washedashore was a small stone font, which, curiously enough, was undamaged. 

In December 1884 Mr. Dodgson, who was much out of health, got a passage tothe Cape in a man-of-war. It was not his intention to return. But the nextyear a great calamity befell the Tristanites. Fifteen of their men put offin a new lifeboat to a ship, and were all drowned. Out of a population ofninety-two there were now only four male adults, and one of these was outof his mind and giving a good deal of trouble. Tristan had suddenly becomean island of widows and children. When Mr. Dodgson heard of this calamityhe at once offered to return. It being thought that the islanders were onthe brink of starvation, H. M. S. _Thalia_ was sent to their relief, and Mr. Dodgson sailed in her, reaching Tristan in August 1886. He remained tillDecember 1889, when ill health again obliged him to leave. This time tenof the inhabitants left with him. 

To go back to the period when we ourselves began to think of going out. After some months of serious consideration we resolved to make theattempt, and at once began to face the question of how to get there. Toget to Tristan da Cunha is no easy matter; it took us nearly five months. There is no regular communication with it, and it has no harbour. 

Formerly a man-of-war from the Cape station visited it once a year, butsince the South African War this annual visit has been discontinued. Mr. Dodgson advised us to go to St. Helena and there await a whaler. He hadfound this the best plan. So accordingly we set off from Southampton onNovember 18, 1905--my husband, our maid and myself, taking with us ayear's food supply and a very limited amount of furniture. St. Helena wasreached in seventeen days. An interview with the American Consul, who wascourtesy itself, convinced us there was no likelihood of getting apassage. The whalers that called there were from New Bedford in America, and none were expected. Our visit, however, was not entirely in vain, because we had the advantage of meeting the Bishop of St. Helena, whoshowed us much kindness, and of talking over our plans with him. Thediocese of St. Helena must be unique. It consists of the three islands, St. Helena, Ascension, and Tristan da Cunha. There is no clergyman on thetwo last, and only the bishop and three clergymen on St. Helena. No bishopof St. Helena has as yet landed upon Tristan da Cunha. 

We decided to go on to Cape Town by the next steamer, which port wereached early in January, knowing no one beyond a few fellow-passengers. Not wishing to go to an hotel we took some rooms of which we heard fromthe chaplain of the Seamen's Mission. For the next few weeks my husbandspent his time visiting the different shipping agencies and the docks, butto no purpose, as no ship would call at Tristan. We even cabled to acompany in England; "No" met our every inquiry. February had now set in, and we thought that the best thing to do was to take a small unfurnishedhouse and wait in hope that a man-of-war would be visiting the island atthe end of the year. We had been about a month in this house when newscame from my sister-in-law in England that the very company to which wehad cabled and which had a monthly service between Table Bay and the RiverPlate was ready to take us for a named sum, but only on the understandingthat should the weather be too rough to land us on Tristan we should haveto go on to Buenos Ayres. In spite of the uncertainty involved it seemedright to accept this offer. We embarked on the steamer _Surrey_ on March31, but did not start till next day, Sunday, as some repairs had to bedone to one of the engines. There went with us Tom Rogers, a Tristanite, who was glad of the opportunity of returning to his island home. 

During our stay at Cape Town we had made many kind friends. Among themwere Mr. Beverley, the rector of Holy Trinity Church, and Mrs. Beverley. They had helped us in looking for a house, helped in shopping, helped inpacking, insisted on our taking our last meal with them, and came with usto the steamer. We found the steamer very crowded, the passengers quiteoutnumbering the berths, and it was not until evening that we couldprocure a cabin. But one thing I much appreciated: our collie was allowedto be with us during the day. We had only had him a few days, but hebehaved excellently, lying at our feet most of the time. He came to us as"Whisky, " but was promptly re-named "Rob. "

[Illustration: THE PEAK SHOWING ABOVE CLOUDS]

CHAPTER II

On the early morning of the eighth day--it was Palm Sunday--themountainous cliffs of Tristan could dimly be discerned. My husband hadgone up on deck two or three times while it was yet dusk to see if landwas visible; while I kept looking out of the porthole, although it was nota very large outlook. At about four o'clock he dressed and wrote severalletters. At six o'clock, accompanied by Rob, I went on to the lower deckand could see Tristan enshrouded in mist. At about nine o'clock we arrivedopposite the settlement. A high wind was blowing and the sea was rough. But this did not prevent the islanders setting off in two of their canvasboats to board the steamer. It was with great interest I went on deck tospeak to them. I was greeted by an Italian, who in broken English said--

"It not very comfortable for a lady. "

They said it was too rough for us to land at the settlement, but that ifwe went back eight or nine miles round to another part of the islandlanding would be possible. It did not take long to steam back, but it tookmany hours to land the luggage. This was done under the direction of thethird officer by a ship's boat manned by several passengers, who were mostkeen to help, and by the two island boats. But it was done underconsiderable difficulty, "a dangerous swell running on to a steep pebblybeach. " Twice the ship's boat filled with water, and once a man was washedoverboard, but was hauled in again. The harmonium was floating in the sea, but being in a zinc-lined case took no harm. By the afternoon the sea hadquieted down a little, and it was decided that it would be safe for us toland at the settlement. Personally I was rather disappointed at thisdecision; but it gave, we believe, much satisfaction to the captain, whodid not seem at all to like the idea of landing us on the sea-shore, wherewe should certainly have had to spend one night, and might have had tospend several. We steamed to within three-quarters of a mile of thesettlement, and between three and four o'clock all was in readiness for usto leave the steamer. Farewells were said, and then we descended to thelower deck, which was crowded with people. One island boat had alreadyleft. The other had been hauled on to the ship, and it was thought bestthat we should get into it and then be lowered. As they began to lift theboat there was an ominous crack, which caused the chief officer to tell usto get out, which we quickly did. The boat was then lowered into the sea. One by one we made the descent of about forty feet down the ship's side ona swinging rope ladder, holding a rope in each hand, and having one roundour waist, and with an officer going in front of us. We had to wait forthe right moment to jump into the boat which was rising and falling withthe waves. The collie came last; it seemed an interminable time before heappeared. He was roped, and struggling as for his life; he managed toclamber back to the deck, but was pushed off again, and at last reached usin a most terrified condition, and trembling violently. It was really hardwork to hold him in the boat. We were now ready to pull off. Farewellswere waved and cheers given, and I think the last strains we heard were"For he's a jolly good fellow. " It was not easy getting away from theship, and it looked rather alarming as we descended and mounted with thewaves. The spray kept dashing over us, and I felt it running down my neck, but before long we got into quieter water. The steamer stood by untilwe were out of danger, and then we saw it steaming away with thefellow-passengers who had been so kind to us. Now, indeed, we felt we wereleaving the world behind us. But we could see quite a crowd awaiting us onthe shore and others running down the steep cliff to the beach. We werenot allowed to land until the boat was drawn up on the shingle. There wefound nearly all the colony and a swarm of dogs. We struggled up the bankof shingle over wet seaweed, and went round and shook hands with theelders. Seeing we had no hats, and the veils which we were wearing intheir place were wet through, two of the younger women came forward andoffered Ellen and myself a coloured handkerchief to tie over our heads, and, I think, tied them on. We were much touched by this kind attentionand the welcome it conveyed. 

When the boat had been drawn up to its place we sang the doxology, lingered a little, and then, conducted by the inhabitants, filed up thesteep rocky road to the top of the cliff and on to the grassy common. Thescenery was very fine, towering mountains in the background, thesettlement below with its quaint little stone, thatched houses, and thesea with its white-crested waves. We were taken to Betty Cotton's house, the first to be reached. She was there to give us a welcome. We had tobend our heads as we entered the porch, but to our surprise were led intoquite a spacious room with two windows. 

[Illustration: BETTY COTTON'S HOUSE (FRONT), OUR NEW HOME]

[Illustration: BETTY COTTON'S HOUSE (BACK)]

A large number followed us in. I felt a little shy, so many eyes were uponus, and all the conversation had to emanate from us. After a time therewas a movement: the men in whose boat we had come went off to change theirwet clothes. 

Betty, who was seventy-six and very active, began to prepare the table fortea, and I must say the prospect of tea was most welcome. There werespectators of that meal and of many ensuing ones. Later on our friendscame to see us again, and the room was packed all round. I could hear muchwhispering among the women in the passages: no doubt anxious discussionwas going on as to our sleeping accommodation. Betty decided to sleep out;Mr. Dodgson's room was assigned to us, and the adjoining room which had nowindow and was more like a cupboard, to Ellen. 

My husband had some talk with the people, telling them what had drawn himto Tristan and of his mother's shipwreck, and then closed with a fewverses from the Bible and prayer. We were tired after our day ofadventures, and thankful to retire to rest. 

CHAPTER III

We woke up next morning realizing that we were at last, after more than ayear of anticipation and months of travel, amongst the settlers on Tristanda Cunha. 

The present settlement dates from 1816, when a garrison was sent by theCape Government to occupy the island, as it was thought that Tristan mightbe used as a base by Napoleon's friends to effect his escape from St. Helena. In February 1817 the British Government determined to withdraw thegarrison, and a man-of-war was dispatched to remove it. Three of the menasked to remain, the chief being William Glass of Kelso, N. B. , a corporalin the Royal Artillery, who had with him his wife--a Cape coloured woman--and his two children. Later, others came to settle on the island, three byshipwreck; and some left it; the inhabitants in 1826 being seven men, twowives and two children. 

Five of these men, who were bachelors, asked the captain of a whaler tobring them each a wife from St. Helena. He did his best and brought fivecoloured women--one a widow with four children. Of these marriages onlyone, I believe, turned out happily. A daughter of this marriage was BettyCotton, our landlady. She was the eldest of seven daughters, and had fivebrothers. Her father, Alexander Cotton, was born at Hull, and was an oldman-of-war's man, and for three years had guarded Napoleon at Longwood, St. Helena. Thomas Hill Swain, another of the five, came from Sussex andserved in the _Theseus_ under Nelson. He married the widow, and used totell his children, of whom there were four daughters living on the islandwhen we were there, that he was the sailor who caught Nelson when he fellat Trafalgar. This old man was vigorous to the last. At the age of onehundred and eight he was chopping wood, when a splinter flying into hiseye caused his death. The result, of course, of these marriages was acoloured race. Some of the children are still very dark in appearance, butthe colour is gradually dying out. 

Another well-known islander, Peter William Green, came nearly twenty yearslater. He was a Dutch sailor, a native of Katwijk, on the North Sea, whoseship in trying to steal the islanders' sea elephant oil got in too closeand was wrecked. He settled down and married one of the four daughters ofthe widow, and became eventually headman and marriage officer. QueenVictoria sent him a framed picture of herself, which, unfortunately, hasbeen taken away to the Cape. He died in 1902 at the age of ninety-four. 

In the next decade came Rogers and Hagan from America; and in the earlynineties the two Italian sailors Repetto and Lavarello of Comogli, whowere shipwrecked. 

I believe the population has never numbered more than one hundred andnine. At the time of our arrival it was seventy-one, of whom only ten hadever been away from the island. The language spoken is English, but theirvocabulary is limited. 

The soldiers pitched their camp at the north end of a strip of landstretching about six miles in a north-westerly direction, where it iscrossed by a constant stream of the purest and softest water. It is saidthey built two forts, one commanding Big Beach and Little Beach Bays, andone further inland to command what was thought the only approachableascent to the mountain heights. The position of the first fort is known, the raised ground for mounting two guns being distinctly visible on thetop of Little Beach Point; but the islanders do not think the second fortwas ever built. 

The settlers naturally chose this camp as the site for their settlement, and there they built their houses. When we arrived there were sixteen, three of which were uninhabited. They all face the sea; and run east andwest. On account of the very high winds the walls are built about fourfeet thick at the gable ends, and about two feet at the sides. Most of thestone they are built of is porous, in consequence of which the walls onthe south side are very damp and are often covered on the inside with agreen slime. The houses are thatched with a reed-like grass calledtussock, which is grown in the gardens or on a piece of ground near. Thethatch will last from ten to fifteen years, that on the sunny side lastingconsiderably the longer. Turf is used to cover the ridge of the roof, butthis is not altogether satisfactory as the soil works through, and whenthere is a gale the rooms below are thick with dust. Perhaps the dust isalso caused by the innumerable wood-lice which work in the wood and make afine wood-dust. Every house has a loft running the whole length of it. Wefound ours the greatest boon as it was the only place we had in which tokeep the year's stores. The woodwork of nearly all the houses is fromwrecked ships; boards from the decks form the flooring, masts and yardsappear as beams, cabin doors give entrance to the rooms. 

The houses when I first went into them struck me as most dreary; no fire, hardly any furniture, just a bare table, a wooden sofa which is nearlyalways used as a bed, a bench, and perhaps a chair, with a seaman's chestagainst the wall, a chimney-piece covered with a pinked newspaper hanging, on which stood pieces of crockery, on the walls a few pictures and ancientphotographs. There are large open fire-places, but no grates or stoves, the cooking being done on two iron bars supported by fixed stones. 

The rooms are divided off by wooden partitions. There are generally twobedrooms; the end one is also nearly always used as a kitchen, and thegroceries are usually kept there. On account of the high winds there aregenerally windows only on the north of the house, which is the sunny side, due to Tristan's being south of the equator. 

Every house has a garden, but not used to grow vegetables or flowers, which the people do not seem to care about, and certainly there aredifficulties owing to high winds, rats, fowls, and, not least, children. They sometimes grow a few onions, cabbages and generally pumpkins: a fewpink roses and geraniums may be seen. Potatoes are their staple food, andare grown in walled-in patches about three miles off. Each house has oneor two huts, in one of which they stow away their potatoes, and also alamb-house. 

In the matter of clothing, the men have not much difficulty, as theybarter with the sailors on passing ships, giving in exchange the skins ofalbatross and mollyhawks, the polished horns of oxen, small calf-skin bagsand penguin mats made by the women, and occasionally wild-cat skins. Theyusually wear blue dungaree on week-days, and broadcloth or white duck onSundays. With the women and children it is different, for they depend onparcels sent by friends, and as of late years there has been no regularcommunication with the island they have been at times very short, especially of underclothing. Now that whalers have begun to call again, two or three appearing about Christmas time, they can sometimes getmaterial from them, but, except the dungaree, it is very poor stuff, andthey have to pay a high price in exchange. The women usually have a veryneat appearance, no hole is allowed to remain in a garment, which is atonce patched, and many and varied are the patches. They wear blouses whichthey call jackets, and in the place of hats, coloured handkerchiefs(occasionally procured from ships), which are worn all day, from morningto night, and only taken off on very hot days, or when they are going tobe photographed, when as a rule no amount of persuasion will induce themto keep them on. The little girls wear sun-bonnets, "capies" they callthem, and very well they look in them. The little boys wear short jacketsand long knickers. The women and girls card and spin their own wool, whichthey knit into socks and stockings. 

As regards food, potatoes take the place of bread. There are about twentyacres under cultivation, each man having his own patches. They neverchange the seed and rarely the ground. A man may enclose as many patchesas he likes provided he cultivates them. They used to manure their groundwith seaweed, but found its constant use made the ground hard; then theytried guano, and finally sheep manure, which they use in large quantities. They get it by driving their sheep during the lambing season four or fivetimes a week into the lamb-houses, penning them up from about five in theafternoon until eight or nine next morning. The poor sheep must sufferconsiderably both from being driven so much and because they get no foodwhile penned in. In spite of this barbarous practice the mutton when wefirst went was very good--equal, we thought, to the best Welsh mutton, butlatterly its quality much fell off, and we found the sheep were largelyinfected with scab. The people occasionally have beef in the winter. Their method of killing the ox is very cruel, for often the poor animal ischased about over the settlement by men and dogs, and only killed aftermany shots. There is generally a good supply of milk. Betty Cotton at onetime milked sixteen cows, and made a large quantity of butter which shesent by the man-of-war to her relations at the Cape. The making of cheesehas been quite given up. From July to October the men get a great numberof eaglet, penguin, and mollyhawk eggs--all sea-fowl. Fish can be caughtall the year round. Any groceries obtained must come from passing ships. Sometimes months go by without tea, coffee, sugar, flour, salt and soapbeing seen. 

The cooking is done mostly in large pots and frying-pans, as there are noovens, though a temporary one is made on special occasions such as a greatfeast. The chief meat dish is stuffed mutton, the stuffing consisting ofpotatoes and parsley seasoned with pepper and salt. The greatest delicacyis the stuffed sucking-pig which takes the place of our turkey. 

The animals on the island are cattle, sheep, donkeys, pigs, geese, fowls, dogs, cats and rats. There were about seven hundred head of cattle in1905, far more than there was pasture for. Between the months of May andNovember of that year nearly four hundred died from starvation. From thesame cause a loss of cattle occurs every few years, but never before hadthere been so great a one. The number of sheep was about eight hundred; ofdonkeys there were about thirty, and perhaps there were as many, or more, pigs, which usually have to find their own living, as also do the geeseand fowls. A great number of dogs are kept, some families keeping as manyas four. Most of these too have to find their own living, whichoccasionally they do by hunting the sheep and by night raids on the geese. 

The rats came from the _Henry B. Paul_ which was wrecked on Tristan in1882. Only about half-a-dozen got ashore, which Mr. Dodgson urged the mento kill, pointing out what trouble they would cause if not destroyed, butthe men thought a few rats wouldn't hurt, and did nothing. 

CHAPTER IV

The last chapter has related some things that obviously came later to ourknowledge. I now return to the order of my diary and letters. 

_Monday, April_ 9, 1906. --Betty Cotton came in early this morning to lookafter our wants. She was going to get us an early cup of tea, but at mysuggestion made it breakfast. Later on Graham and I wandered on to thecommon. It was such a beautiful morning, and the sea like a mill-pond. Wefound many of the women washing clothes, and had a talk with several ofthem. The men had gone off early in three boats to fetch some of theluggage from where it had been landed about eight miles away. They werenot back much before noon. Most of the women went down to meet them, andas each boat came in assisted in dragging it up. It was a most picturesquesight to see some half-dozen carts, each drawn by a pair of bullocks, wending their way down to the beach to fetch up the luggage which waslying on the shore. The small carts were slowly filled, and then the oxenwere piloted up a most rough and rocky road by boys who guided them withtheir whips. Betty, Ellen and I watched it all from the cliff. A good dealof the luggage was piled in Betty's sitting-room, and the rest taken toJohn Glass's house. 

_Tuesday, April_ l0. --Today has been so wet and rough that it wasimpossible for the men to go for any more luggage. Happily, it is coveredover with a tarpaulin from the _Surrey_, so we hope it will not get muchdamaged. That which was brought yesterday got rather wet, and we have hadto unpack and dry pillows and other things. At present we are unpackingonly what is absolutely necessary, which is but little. 

It has been arranged for us to live in this house. Betty is kindly givingit up to us and is going to live in a room attached to the house opposite. One and another family is providing for our needs. One will come with afew eggs which are scarce now, another with apples, and a third withbutter. Then at dinner-time is brought a plate of hot meat and potatoes. Aplentiful supply of milk is provided, and we drink it at dinner. Althoughthere is hardly any flour on the island they are using what little thereis to make us bread. 

The men have already set to to prepare the house which is to be used aschurch and school. A widow, Lucy Green, has generously offered it for thispurpose, as she had done before in Mr. Dodgson's time. 

_Wednesday, April_ 11. --We went up this morning to the school-house andfound men busy washing the painted ceiling. When we went again in theafternoon all their work was done and women were washing the floor. TheCommunion Table had been brought down from the loft--it needed only alittle repairing. The Communion Cloth from St. Andrews[Footnote: Malvern Common, Great Malvern. ]fits it almost exactly and looks so well. There is a small prayer-desk anda nice oak lectern, and we have brought from Mr. Dodgson the stone font heused. The church will be quite ready for Good Friday services. 

The next work to be undertaken will be our house. The people love to comeand see us, and we are not left much to ourselves. Repetto, who wasshipwrecked here about fifteen years ago, was a sergeant in the Italiannavy; he is an intelligent-looking man, short, with dark hair, pale face, and a slight squint. He married a Green, one of Betty's nieces, and hassix children. Some of the men and women are fine-looking people. Theweather has prevented any more luggage being fetched. 

_Thursday, April_ l2. --It has been the same today. The men have started onthe house. To make our bedroom a little larger the partition has beenmoved back so as to take in a piece of the kitchen. Our cases are beingused to re-floor the bedroom and passage, which had a large hole in it. Apartition will be taken down in Ellen's room, which will then open out onto the front door, and a curtain is to be hung across the opening. Thewalls of the bedrooms are covered with illustrated papers, which here takethe place of wallpaper. Two girls have been helping to tear these off, andthe walls will be whitewashed. We brought lime and brushes from the Cape. The doors have the most primitive and varied fastenings, and one a bit ofrope in the place of a handle. Many panes in the windows are cracked, andone or two have departed altogether. There is a front and a back entrance. Along the front of the house runs a path, on the other side of which, witha wall between, is the garden. This is fairly large and is bounded bystone walls and a hedge of flax. From its appearance it has had nocultivation for some years. As far as I can see the only sign of any cropbesides weeds is an entangled strawberry patch. There is a good view ofthe sea from the house and garden. I spent most of the morning, which wasa fine one, in a sheltered corner by the brook, where Ellen was washing afew clothes. I had previously done a little washing too. We already feelat home, and I am sure we shall settle down happily. We find Tristan farmore beautiful than we expected; the mountains seem very near and are mostimposing, and the light on them at times is very beautiful. Littlerivulets are to be seen coursing down close to the houses. They have beendiverted from the main stream--known as the "Big Watering. " We have onejust outside the back door, and not many yards away the Big Wateringitself. 

_Good Friday, April_ 13. --We got up at 6. 30. Ellen and I are sleeping inour deck-chairs in the sitting-room. Graham goes out first thing to fetchwater for our baths, as we have not enough utensils to lay in a store thenight before. Life is delightfully primitive here. 

A man named John Glass is to be the church clerk, and he appeared abouteight o'clock to carry the harmonium up to the church; service was at10. 30. No one went into church until we arrived; groups of men and womenwere waiting on the common in their Sunday clothes, the women looking sopicturesque in bright garments. The church room was packed. We learntafterwards that every man, woman and child was present except old CarolineSwain, who is an invalid; we were seventy-four in all. We had a verysimple and short service, Graham explaining as he went along what we wereto do. Every one was most reverent and all knelt. There were four hymns, and how they enjoyed the singing of them! It was surprising how well theygot on. The women all said, "Good-morning, marm, " as they entered thechurch. At first it was difficult to understand what they said, but now Iam more able to do so. On our way home we met Betty Cotton, who said, "It's the best 'Sunday' I have had since Mr. Dodgson left. " She is a dearold body, and is making it her mission to look after us. 

[Illustration: THE WATERFALL]

People have been in and out most of the day. Graham proposed to some menwho came to see him that they should take a walk up the mountain, so theywent up the Goat Ridge, which is quite near, and climbed about ninehundred feet. Ellen and I went down to the seashore where there is astrong smell of seaweed. The sand is black, which is owing to the volcanicorigin of Tristan. The cliffs at this spot are lovely with overhanginggreen, and with a very pretty waterfall, caused by the Big Wateringfinding its way over the cliff into the sea. This waterfall marks thesettlement landing-place. Rebekah Swain, aged twenty-eight, came up andasked if it would be "insulting" if she came and sat by us. I had myhymn-book with tunes, and so we chose the hymns for Easter Sunday. Sheheld the pages down as I turned them over, for the wind was blowing, andtold me what hymns the people knew. She is the daughter of Mrs. SusanSwain, who has been teaching the children. She took us for a walk alongthe shore and by a new way up the cliff. Seeing Ellen was tired, she said, "If you will take my arm, I will take you along. " She also said, "Themissus can go quick, " as she saw me clambering up the cliff. She invitedus up to her mother's house, who insisted upon our having a cup of tea, which was drunk in the presence of many spectators, for the room soonbegan to fill. Mrs. Swain showed me letters which she had received fromladies in England. She herself cannot write. When I got home I foundGraham entertaining Mr. And Mrs. Lavarello. They had come with milk and aloaf of bread. They bake the loaf in an iron pot with a lid, on which theylight the fire. Lavarello is one of the shipwrecked Italians. Ruth Swain, a girl of seventeen, next came in, then two little boys, and finally Mrs. Repetto. The people have so intermarried, and there are so many of thesame name, that it is difficult to distinguish one person from another, but we are learning to do so gradually. There is an intense eagernessamong the elders that their children shall get some "larning. " Theremaining luggage has not yet come. 

_Saturday, April_ l4. --It has been a wet day. The men have been very busyin the sitting-room, so we spent most of our time in the bedroom, which ismore than half-full of cases and baggage. Repetto has just had supper withus, and has been telling all about Captain Kerry's visit in the _Pandora_. 

CHAPTER V

On Easter Sunday we had eight o'clock Communion; twelve were present. Asthere are no Communion rails we knelt in front of two forms. Almost everyfamily has provided a form which just gives the necessary seatingaccommodation. The next service was at 10:30. I am so glad we broughtprayer-books and hymn-books, as not many seem to possess them. We wereagain struck with the heartiness of the singing. Graham spoke a few simplewords on the Resurrection. All the babies were brought to church, andthere was a little crying. There was one very fat child of thirteen monthsthat has something wrong with it, for it cannot sit up. I noticed also aman with no forearms, but with terribly deformed fingers where the elbowwould be. 

This afternoon we had baptisms; there were four children to be baptized, and a fifth to be received into the congregation. One of the mothers, aMrs. Hagan, came in before the service to ask if Ellen "would come alongwith her to church. " Graham could not make out what she meant; it was, would Ellen be god-mother to her baby boy. It was a large assembly thatstood round the small font. The children were young enough for Graham totake in his arms. As the people stayed on while he wrote the particularsin the register, I played hymns to them. When we got back at about 4:20 wehad visitors till 6:30. They are so pleased to have some one to talk to;the men come in as much as, if not more than, the women. 

I must not forget to record that we had rather a disturbed night onSaturday. First, there was heavy rain and it came through the ceilingclose to where Ellen was sleeping; then the cat caught a rat under thetable, and Rob went for her wishing to share the spoil. This is the firstrat I have seen here, though I have heard them in the house. They are inshoals all over the mountains, and eat the fruit in the orchards. Therehave been no peaches for years, and there used to be bushels of them. Thepeople say it is owing to the rats. Graham has spoken seriously to themen, and told them they should have one day a week for an onslaught. Theydid try it one year, and say it made a perceptible difference in thenumber. 

It was decidedly cold when we first got here, making us glad to have warmthings, and in the evening we appreciated our large open hearth and woodfire. To-day it is much warmer. 

_Wednesday, April_ l8. --On Monday, though not a very good day, the menwent in two boats to fetch more luggage. Unfortunately it came on to rainhard. In landing on the shore where it is stored they nearly lost theirboats, the surf was so heavy. We spent the morning in pasting strips ofcalico along the cracks of the ceiling in our sitting-room; it was rathera business, but Rebekah came in and helped. At present there is no gettinga rest in the middle of the day, for there is no quiet spot for it. 

On Monday night we again heard the rats scampering about overhead, andthis morning early Graham was much pleased to find five in the wire trapon the kitchen window-ledge; one eventually escaped. Through the night wehad heard the cat crunching rats close by. 

Yesterday upon opening a case we found three pillows and a mattress hadgot wet. If the wetting is from salt water they will have to be soaked infresh. The other pillows that got wet have not felt dry since, but still Ihave had to lie upon them; the deck-chairs are in the same state. 

We are living in such a muddle, our things being heaped up against thewall. Presently they will have to be removed to another room while thisone is whitewashed and then back again. To find things is almost animpossibility. By the end of the week we hope to be much straighter. Allthe men have worked with a will. This morning they fetched the remainingluggage from the shore, and this afternoon have been working hard at thehouse. I went down with my camera and took photographs of the boatsunloading and of the ox-wagons which had gone to bring up the luggage. Thewomen came down with hot coffee and tea for the men. 

Graham picked up the other day an old porthole window with the glassunbroken, and it has been used for the house. Many of the people'spossessions are from shipwrecks. I noticed what nice white jugs they bringour milk in; it seems a case of these was found on a wrecked ship. Theyhave also a good deal of glass and china from the same source. 

_Friday, April_ 20. --It was such a hot day yesterday, just like summer. The fatigue of such a day is felt all the more because there is hardly aresting-place for the sole of one's foot. To-day has been wet. The menhave been finishing the house, and have fixed the stove in the kitchen. Repetto and Swain have managed the piping splendidly, and out of tins havemade plates to place over the woodwork which the pipe passes through. Anold bucket has been placed round the piping near the roof as an extrasafeguard against fire. Our bedrooms have been whitewashed, and to-morrowwe hope to move our things into them. I really find a deck-chair mostcomfortable; lined with pillows it does splendidly as a bed. 

We like the people; they are generous and kind. Repetto is most helpful. This afternoon he has been fixing the washing-stands. Every one is sointerested in seeing anything new; the stove especially is an object ofgreat interest. 

_Saturday, April_ 2l. --It has been very wet. The men have now finished thehouse, and we have devoted ourselves to getting things a little moreshipshape. 

I gave Repetto the material A---- had sent, telling him to divide itamongst all the families; he was very grateful. They do need clothing sobadly; some of their clothes are much patched. They all wear whitestockings. The women are very good knitters, and are nearly always to beseen with knitting in their hands, even in their walks to and from thepotato patches. I wish they could throw as much energy into cleaning theirhouses, only one or two of which are kept clean. Their shoes (moccasins)are made of cow's hide and are most quaint. They are made of one piece, with a seam up the front and at the heel. Little slits are cut round theedge of the shoe and a string run in to tie on with. As there is noleather sole their feet must always be in a wet condition in rainyweather. It rains so much that the thickest boots are needed to keep thefeet dry. The need of these has just been brought home to us by a flood atour back door caused by the stream overflowing. Graham has now got BobGreen to divert it, which is a great improvement. The pathway, too, infront of the house at one end becomes a pool after rain. The other night Isplashed right into it, and it took me days to get my house shoes dry. TomRogers, however, is draining it. 

[Illustration: MOCCASINS]

The house being very damp on the south side, we have to keep almosteverything in the sitting-room on the other side. Our bedrooms which arein the middle of the house and cut off by a passage from the south sideare the two driest rooms. Graham and Repetto have been busy hauling upcases into the loft and opening others which looked damp; happily most ofthe stores are in tins. They have also been putting up the beds, whichrequired some fixing. Ash poles at the sides and ends are fitted into sixwooden legs, over which canvas is laced. We find them quite comfortable. Our red blankets look very well against the whitewashed walls. We are byno means straight yet, but well on the way to being so. 

CHAPTER VI

_Sunday, April_ 22. --Wet all day. It has been difficult to keep dry-shodgoing backwards and forwards to church over the wet common and acrosslittle rivulets. We had three services: the Holy Communion at eighto'clock, to which four came; morning prayer at 10. 30, when the church wasabout half full; and a children's service at three. Graham is acting on asuggestion of the Bishop and catechizing the children instead of havingSunday school. As the elders come too, instruction by this means is givento both. With a view to keeping better order an elder was asked to sit oneach bench with the children. These sat with folded hands, and theirbehaviour was very good; by a little encouragement answers were got out oftwo or three of them. We had no harmonium, as it was too wet to bring itup from the house. 

Living as these people do in such an out-of-the-world spot, I am surprisedat the level they have reached. There is a quiet dignity about them, andtheir manners are excellent. No doubt Mr. Dodgson has done much for them, and they have a very warm remembrance of him. I never had so many "Marms"in my life; and the other evening one little boy, on leaving the room, wanting to say something polite, said to me, "Good-night, Mary. "

_Sunday, April_ 29. --Yesterday and to-day it was blowing gales. To get toeight o'clock Communion was not easy. A heavy shower came on as westarted. Ellen threw a cape over her head, I a Shetland shawl over my hat. In a short space of time we were fairly wet and reached church breathlessand panting, for it was up-hill and the wind against us. John Glass, theclerk, came to meet us to offer his help. There were seven or eightpresent. Returning it was worse; the wind was at our backs, and atdifferent times Ellen and I were blown down like ninepins. I have sincebeen told by the people, "When you hear a puff coming, stand or duck tillit is over and then go on. " On these windy days the dust and litter thatcome from the thatch are difficult to cope with. 

This afternoon we had a practice after service. There are one or two hymnsin which the islanders go quite astray; for example, "There is a greenhill" and "Christ who once amongst us. " They have gone wrong, I fear, somany years that the task of getting them to go right is almost animpossible one. We tried a chant, but they seemed to think, as it was notthe one taught by Mr. Dodgson, it could not be right. They say he was verymusical and could sing any part. The men are anxious to sing in partsthemselves. After the service we took Rob for a run, then three of the menturned up and did not depart till after six o'clock. We usually have threemeals a day: breakfast, dinner and supper, but on Sundays generally allowourselves afternoon tea. 

_Monday, April_ 30. --We were so busy all the past week, and many eveningsworked till quite late trying to get straight. It has taken a longer timebecause there is so little space. Our sitting-room looks quite cosy. Wehave half partitioned off a portion of it with a green stoep blind whichwe bought at the Cape, and in the private part thus left have laid down awhite matting, and really at night with a lamp and a fire it looks verybright and cheerful. 

During the turmoil of the week we have had the usual stream of visitors. Early one afternoon Mrs. Hagan and another mother appeared with theirbabies and stayed two hours or more. I finally went on with my work ofunpacking the storage box. At the same time they are always ready to help;for instance, the other day, when I was doing some washing, Mrs. Lavarellocoming in, at once began upon it, and then went to help Rebekah with moreat the watering. 

Our first attempt at making bread has not been a success. The loaf was asheavy as lead, and uneatable. Rob had most of it. Not dismayed we set toto prepare a sponge-cake for the next day. The result was good. Thefollowing day I tried self-raising flour, and the result was even better. The fourth trial, yesterday, was as complete a failure as the first, dueto the high wind which prevented the oven getting hot. Flour is soprecious we are eating the loaf ourselves this time, and, wonderful tosay, have not had indigestion. 

It has been arranged for each family in turn to bring us weekly supplies. Graham felt the people ought to provide a certain amount, and thatanything beyond that we could pay for. So we made out the following list. As there are seventeen families, with one exception the same family willonly have to serve us three times in the year. They will not hear of ourpaying anything. 

WEEKLY SUPPLY

Meat, 12 lbs. Fish (three times a week). Milk, 14 quarts. Butter, 1 1/2 lbs. (in the summer 2 lbs. , fresh). Eggs, 2 dozen (when in season). Potatoes, 7 lbs. Firewood. 

Graham busied himself most of yesterday in making a meat-safe. He foundsome old tin which he perforated and fixed on to a wooden crate. 

_Tuesday, May_ 1. --Graham began school today at 9:30. There werethirty-five scholars--eighteen boys and seventeen girls--their agesranging from twenty-one to three years. I went up at eleven o'clock toteach the infants. It is difficult to get off earlier, as I have a gooddeal to do in the house. We rise at 6:30 and breakfast at eight. Robscrambled into school, although told not to come in, and sat under thechildren's form, which a little discomposed them, and made some of themanxious about their legs. At twelve o'clock the school dispersed. 

When we were leaving we heard a gun go off and saw groups of peoplestanding about on high positions. I was told they were shooting a wildbullock. There did not seem much wildness about the poor black creature. Iwas glad to turn my back on it all. 

We have had a little peace lately as regards the rats. At one time Ifeared there would not be a night without an episode. One night we werejust going off to sleep when I heard noises above. Graham was up in aminute, thrust on his clothes, and hastened, lantern in hand, up theladder into the loft where he found a poor rat caught in a trap. We willleave the rest. This sort of thing is just a little disconcerting as youare getting off to sleep. Another night he was catching the wood-licecreeping over our bedroom walls, and must have caught fifty. I am ratherthankful when he is too tired for these raids. The houses are alsoinfested with fleas. 

Ellen and I have both had presents of white stockings which we arewearing, and find most warm and comfortable. They look so old-fashioned, but I intend to wear them. 

The bread to-day which I had made was burnt almost to a cinder. We stillhave long visitations from the people, who generally come from five to6. 30; supper in consequence has often to wait. It is wonderful how muchthere is to do in a small house like this. 

[Illustration: THE CEMETERY]

This afternoon we visited the little cemetery. It is surrounded byrough-hewn blocks of stone. These once formed the walls of a church whichMr. Dodgson induced the men to start building, but they took such a longtime over it, he felt it would never be finished, and so told them theycould use the stones as a wall for the cemetery. Here and there are littlewooden crosses, and such quaintly written inscriptions, the letters beingpicked out in tin nailed to the cross or stone. The tombstone of WilliamGlass is the most imposing. It is of marble, and was sent by his sons inAmerica. 

We are not nearly straight yet; the difficulty is where to put everything. There is one small cupboard in the sitting-room, but only bottles can bekept in it as it is so damp. I keep some of the stores in my oldschool-box in the ante-room. 

Graham has been writing for the people to the King, to thank him for themessage which he sent them through Lord Crawford. 

_Monday, May_ 7. --We do all our writing in the evening. Since we have beenhere three ships have been sighted. One was four-masted and came in quiteclose. It was a misty day with a rough sea. This last week the weather hasbeen delightful, sunshine day after day with very little wind. 

[Illustration: HILL TOP. INACCESSIBLE IN THE DISTANCE]

Last evening after church we went for a walk accompanied by the twobachelors of the island, Tom Rogers and Bill Green. We went westward overa rocky common to get a view of Inaccessible. We could see it mostclearly. It was my first view of it. It did not look far off, but is inreality about twenty-five miles away. There was a most beautiful sunset, the sea being quite lit up. 

CHAPTER VII

We are settling down to our daily routine. I go up to school each day at10. 30 now and take Class II in writing for half-an-hour before theinfants. I have had to drop "pen pointing to the shoulder. " Some of thechildren are very attractive. 

Not counting our household of three, there are now seventy-two people onthe island--thirteen men, the eldest being forty-nine; twenty women, theeldest about eighty; and thirty-nine children. There are four families ofSwains, not including old Caroline Swain, the invalid; three of Greens, not including the bachelor Bill Green; and two of Rogers. Mrs. Sam Swain, sister of Tom Rogers, has five daughters whose ages run from twenty-one tonine years. She lost a girl of twelve about two years ago from asthma. TheRepettos are nice children and very intelligent. A boy of fifteen, WilliamRogers, who is very staid, comes every morning to fetch water and chopwood. He is so anxious to learn. Sometimes he has to go to work, but hecomes to school whenever he can. He has most curious sight: in the daytimehe can see all right, but at night, even in a lighted room, is not able tosee a thing that is handed to him; he says he is "night blind. " Thisafternoon we invited Betty Cotton, of whom we have not seen much lately, in to tea. I think it gave her great satisfaction. She has been in need ofspectacles, and I was able to suit her with a pair. 

Rob got into disgrace a few days ago. When out with Ellen he suddenlyrushed off up the mountainside and chased a sheep to the cliff. It was sofrightened it jumped down about thirty or forty feet and fell on its sidepanting and bleeding. Happily, it was not seriously hurt. The owner, Andrew Hagan, has not made much of the occurrence. I am glad to say he atonce rode off on his donkey in search of it. Graham went too, and notfinding the sheep, took Rob to some others and gave him a thoroughwhipping. We carry a whip when we take him out now. What he loves is a runon the sea-shore where he can scamper about after sea-birds. We like a seablow too, and there is not such a feeling of loneliness on the shore hereas there is at many seaside places. 

_Wednesday, May_ 9. --Today has been rather an eventful one. Rain began tofall early, was still falling when Graham went off to school, and beforelong began to come down in a deluge. At first Ellen and I were kept fullyoccupied getting basins and pans, as the rain was coming through the roofand ceilings in all directions; in several places in the sitting-room, inthe bedrooms, and in the kitchen where it was pouring down the walls. Wehardly had breathing time before a fresh place was discovered. Then Iheard Ellen call me to come and look. She was gazing out of the passagewindow at the brook which had now become a torrent. It was sweeping pastthe house, and spread out like a flood up to the very walls. Streams wereflowing down the mountain; it was a scene of water. I heard a distantsound like thunder, which afterwards we learnt was a body of water thathad descended from the mountain and cut a gully of--I do not know now manyfeet deep and broad; carrying away the bullock road across Hottentot Gulchand two poor sheep. About noon the rain abated. Bob Green, a nearneighbour, very kindly came in while it was still pouring to reassure us. But Ellen and I were not at all alarmed; we just thought it was anordinary event. It seems, however, the people cannot remember another suchdeluge. In the afternoon the sun came out and Graham and I, escorted byWilliam and Johnny Green went to look at the deep channel the rush ofwater had made. We met several mothers who had been to the spot. The chasmwill have to be filled up and a new road made. Repetto and Andrew Swainhave been in for a chat this evening. The former said when he looked downupon this cottage it appeared to be standing in a pond. 

I am getting to know the children now. Some of them in appearance might belittle English boys and girls. Charlie Green, a brown boy of about fouryears, is quite a character, but almost impossible to teach; he guesses ateverything. If you ask him what letter you are pointing to, he gazes inyour face and guesses, and if you tell him he must look at the letter andnot guess, he does the same again, and will interrupt others to guesswrong; his cheeks all the time are dimpled with laughter and his eyesdancing with merriment. To see him do his physical exercises, especiallyarms to the shoulder, when he pushes out his round little chest, is toocomical. 

By the second Sunday the bell given by the congregation of St. Andrews wasup. It has been hung in the loft of the church. It rings for church andschool and has a very good tone. 

_Sunday, May_ l3. --The 10. 30 and three o'clock services are attended bynearly every one. Graham reads and speaks very slowly so that the peoplemay take in what is said. This morning he spoke on the verse beginning "Hethat believeth on the Son hath everlasting life. " We find the people muchmore intelligent than we expected. 

We had Sunday visitors as usual, namely, John Glass, his wife, and BobGreen. They stayed on and on and it was getting towards seven o'clock. Bobwas the first to leave, but soon came back and called Glass, sayingsomething about a fire. We went out and saw such a blaze close at hand. Lavarello's lamb-house, which is a long, low, thatched hut, was on fire. Astrong south-west wind was blowing, and sparks were flying in countlessnumbers. A few fell round this house, but the house in real danger wasJohn Glass's, which is next to ours. The sparks were raining on thethatch, and in the glare we could see figures running about and emptyingbuckets of water on the roof. Graham went off to help. The fire burntfuriously for a time, and I could feel the heat of it as I was standing atour back door. Before very long it began to go down, though sparks werestill flying about. Happily, Lavarello had been able to get his sheep outin time. It will be rather a loss for him as wood is not easy to get. Thefire is thought to have originated by Henry Green losing his cap in thewind, and getting a fire-brand to look for it, a spark from which musthave been blown on to the tussock roof. 

It is curious how, whenever a ship is boarded, colds go the round of thesettlement. We were talking to Repetto about this, and he told us he didnot at first believe it, but has seen it proved again and again. The usualthing has happened after the visit of the Surrey, and many are now laid upwith colds. The other day John Glass asked for some brandy for his wife, who was one of the first to succumb. We knew it would not do to begingiving brandy for such an ailment, yet felt we must prescribe something. By a bright inspiration Graham suggested a teaspoonful of glycerine in hotmilk, to be taken at bedtime. This proved most efficacious, and is soappreciated now that the applicants are many. Rebekah Swain told me todaythat after taking it she had never coughed again! Half a good-sized bottlehas already gone. One day Repetto came for a remedy for his rheumatism, brought on by exposure to cold and wet. I went to the medicine chest tosee what it could produce, and found the very medicine for his case. A dayor two later, inquiring after him, I heard he was very poorly, and beganto wonder if the tabloids were answerable for this. However, the next dayhe was much better, and told me they had eased the pain at once. 

_Thursday, May_ l7. --Every one is looking out expectantly for a ship, andmany letters are waiting to be dispatched by it. About thirty wereentrusted to us by people on the _Surrey_, who wished to have them sentoff from her as a matter of interest. I have printed "Tristan da Cunha" onthe envelopes. Every one places great hope in a man-of-war coming inDecember. 

The people are now living on meat and potatoes, varied with fish. Theyhave no flour, and I should say are oftener without it than with it. Theyget so tired of the same food. Crawfish, which answer to our lobsters, seem to be plentiful and are quite a treat. Rebekah the other eveningcaught about a bushel, and says she has caught as many as five bushels ata time. 

We are touched by the way in which the people give us of their little. Mrs. Sam Swain brought us som carbonate of soda--called here "salaradus"--for making bread, as we had failed in a yeast we had tried. Another Mrs. Swain brought us some more, and on my saying we did not like to take it, her mother, Mrs. Rogers, said, "We are pleased to do all we can for you. "The people are so gratified at having their children taught. A Mrs. Haganbegan bringing us tea and milk each day in the school interval. We thankedher, but would not let her go on doing it. 

It is amusing to watch the boys bringing their cows home to be milked;often they hang on to their tails. The cow sometimes has a contrary fitand will run in the wrong direction; the boy hangs on till the cow thinksbetter of it and turns in the right direction. The cows are small and verythin. In the winter many die for want of food, and this winter, I fear, there will be a great scarcity of grass as the late flood brought down agreat deal of mud on the west side of the island. The people grow nothingto feed their cattle with in the winter. Their sheep do very well as theycan climb to higher pastures. Ben Swain, the man with deformed arms, doeschiefly shepherd's work. He is a son of Susan Swain the school-mistress. Although about thirty-five years old, on wet days he intends coming toschool, and started yesterday. He was taught by Mr. Dodgson to write, which he does kneeling down and holding the pen in both hands. His sister, Rebekah, also comes occasionally. I now take Classes I and II in writing;it is really hard work as I have to be constantly looking at each Pupil. Ishould like to visit the people, but have not been able to do much in thatway yet. 

_Monday, May_ 2l. --We have had such a lovely day, just like summer; it ishard to believe winter is approaching. 

Before school we were busy doing laundry work. The children are getting onso well with their lessons. On Sunday Graham catechizes them on theScripture they have been taught in the week, and their answers areexcellent. I am getting quite fond of the infants. Charlie is veryfascinating; he has such a dark little face, straight black hair, largebrown eyes and such a comical expression. After some weeks of teaching hehas at last learnt A, but is quite ready to call it B. I have made up mymind to devote my energies to the older infants. The parents are soanxious their children should get on, and already Graham has been sent twocanes by two mothers, who were anxious they should be used. The peopleoften relate how Mr. Dodgson used the cane upon boys and girls. 

This afternoon Graham and I went down to the shore and watched with muchinterest Bob Green and his wife fishing from the rocks. Sophy Rogers andCharlie, who was caressing the dog, were with them. Bob was catchingcrawfish with a line without any hook, just a piece of meat tied on at theend with a stone to weight it. He generally caught two at a time, and hadby the end a sack full. Ellen had been fishing with Mary Repetto, and theycaught eight. 

CHAPTER VIII

There was such a happy scene here a few days ago. Graham was paving thepathway in front of the house with big flat stones and had a bevy oflittle boys helping. I much delighted them by giving each one an acorn toplant. Next day I asked Charlie what he done with his. He replied, "It'sin a pawt. "

_Wednesday, May_ 23. --This afternoon I have been very busy planting. Theboys came early, and Graham went down with them to the beach to get a loadof stones for paving. To the delight of the boys, the bottom of the "bus"came out in crossing the stream, and all the stones fell into the water. Isaw the little boys hurrying up to the house, each carrying a wet stone. "Bus" is the island word for "wheelbarrow. " While the paving was going on, I thought with William's assistance I would plant ferns in the wall. Hearing roots were wanted the children began bringing all sorts. Beforeschool some nasturtiums were brought, then Sophy came with a large pinkgeranium. There is a little berry (the crowberry) they eat here which Ithink rather nasty; roots of this were brought, and also some sweetbriarand wild geranium which has a very sweet smell. What especially pleased mewas a plant much resembling the blackberry. Gifts so poured in, it wasreally difficult to know where to plant them all. Yesterday we put in somestrawberry plants. 

I have been trying plaiting the leaves of the flax plant, which growsluxuriantly here, and making a mat of them. I sewed the plaits togetherwith strips from the leaf. I am going to use the mat in church for theboards are very hard to kneel upon. It is green and looks very artistic. Icontemplate making mats for the house, and with assistance might do enoughfor the church. One or two old folk still have the kneelers given them byMr. Dodgson, _Ascension Day, May_ 24. --A most lovely day and very hot. We had a shortschool and then at eleven o'clock the children were all marched toRepetto's house where there is a flagstaff. The flag had been run up, itbeing Empire Day, and, marshalling us beneath it, Graham taught boys andgirls how to "hurrah. " He was in his element. Afterwards he gave the boysa lesson in skipping, and quite surprised me by his agility. One or twotried and much enjoyed it, but the rest were too shy. Later on Williamcame to ask for another rope, and looking out of the passage window I sawa group of boys watching big Ben the crippled man who was skipping withintense enjoyment, and leaping about two feet into the air. 

[Illustration: THE FLAGSTAFF]

At three o'clock we had service. Some fifty were present. Most of the menwere at work. Glass, for one, had been for wood and had had to swim roundthe Bluff. He brought back some eaglet eggs, and sent us three which wehad for supper. They are about as big as a duck's egg, white in colour, and of a slightly fishy taste. The fowls are not laying now. The weeklysupply arrangement is working well. I think eventually we may have a cow. 

_Saturday, May_ 26. --We are only about fifty minutes behind Greenwichtime. 

_Monday, May_ 28. --There was such a lovely sunset this evening; the seawas the colour of indigo, in striking contrast to the sunlit sky. 

_Tuesday, May_ 29. --As we were sitting down to breakfast we heard a shipwas in sight, but to our disappointment were almost immediately told thatit was too far east to catch. Another, a large four-masted one, wassighted in the afternoon; but we were again disappointed, for it was toobreezy to put out to her. 

_Whit Monday, June_ 4. --A change has set in; it was quite cold thismorning. I started laundry work directly after breakfast, and had all thethings out on the line in good time, but could not get up to school tilleleven o'clock. 

It is curious what a difficulty even some of the bigger children have indoing the simplest addition. To add one on to three is at times animpossible task. But if you say three cows are in the yard and one morecomes in, how many are there then? their brain begins to clear. 

I had quite an alarm this afternoon. Old Mrs. Rogers came in to say Grahamwas up in a "tight" place on the mountain, and that the men had gone torescue him. Accompanied by her and Mrs. Repetto, Ellen and I set forthtowards Big Beach; others followed, and some stayed on the cliff to watch. Glass. Ben, and Will Rogers had gone to warn Graham. Before long we couldsee him returning with them. He had not got into any difficulty, but themen had thought it was not a safe part to go to alone. We had intendedgoing that way to-morrow for a Whitsuntide holiday, but the men think itunwise, so we are going in the opposite direction towards the potatopatches which we have not yet seen. An opinion expressed at Cape Town ofthe people by one who had lately visited them does not at all coincidewith our experience. They were described as "a ruffianly-looking lot, " andthe speaker was sure "there was one man at least who had had his knifeinto some one. "

_Thursday, June_ 7. --After all we did not get the Whitsuntide holiday, forI was too busy. Ellen was in bed all yesterday with a bad headache and waslying down most of the day before. So I have had the housework and cookingto do. Graham helped before breakfast by cleaning the kitchen stove, andafterwards by washing up after meals and undertaking the saucepans! I onlymissed school one day. The elder infants are getting on nicely; theparents of some are teaching them at home, and they are beginning now toread small words. Most of the girls bring their knitting, and during theinterval sit on stones under the low wall and knit away till the bellrings for them to go in again. I used to take mine, but devote the timenow to ruling slates. I am teaching Rebekah to write. Her writing is soimpossible I have had to start her with letters on the slate, and she verysensibly does not resent this. To-day many visitors have been to inquireafter Ellen; they certainly are kind-hearted. 

William, our factotum, is a thoughtful and kind boy. If anything is givento him he shares it with his half-brothers. He comes three or four timesa day to ask if he can do anything, and generally when we are having amid-day rest! In the morning if he hears Graham has gone off to school heis after him like a shot. 

The people are extracting salt from the sea-water. They take large barrelsin ox-wagons to the shore to be filled, then they boil the water fortwenty-four hours, in fact till it is all boiled away. They use this salt, when they have no other, for their butter, which it does not at allimprove; but the butter brought to us is generally unsalted. They nevermake salt unless driven to it because the process involves the burning ofso much wood. They also make a black-looking soap, but very rarely, as ittakes days and nights to make, and requires not only much wood, but also agood deal of fat which they can ill spare. 

We have had many requests for envelopes, and today were asked forparaffin, and also for flour for a sick baby. So far we have found thepeople more ready to give than to ask. Another pair of stockings waspresented today, an offering from Mrs. Glass on her seventieth birthday. 

The only word used for "afraid" is "skeered, " and today when I asked theinfants why Adam and Eve hid themselves among the trees in the garden, oneanswered, "Because they were skeered. "

Repetto is a pupil of Graham's, and comes every Friday evening to readEnglish. He finds the pronunciation rather a difficulty. He has quite alibrary, from which he has selected as a suitable book to lend to Graham, William Penn's _Fruits of Solitude in Reflections and Maxims_. He ismaking a cover for the harmonium out of two calf skins so that in wetweather it can be taken to church. 

_Sunday, June_ l0. --It was so windy today that Ellen and I went to churchwearing white silk handkerchiefs instead of hats. I felt a little shy atbeing thus equipped, but soon got over it. 

Wednesday, June_ l3. --We have begun a weekly _singing practice for theschool children; and as it is not always possible to take up the harmoniumwe do without it, depending on a tuning-fork which was given to Ellen atSt. Helena. With some labour we have taught them a "Gloria" and a"Venite. " On the whole they are quick in learning a tune, but it mustfirst be sung to them. At to-day's practice two mothers appeared upon thescene to see what we were doing. Some of the boys did not turn up, and Iheard afterwards that two parents had given their sons a "tanning, " asthey expressed it, for not coming; and that this was so effectuallyadministered that one of the truants hid under a cart to conceal hisfeelings. 

CHAPTER IX

_Wednesday, June_ 13 (_continued_). --On Monday we went for an expeditionto the top of Burntwood. Burntwood is a grass-covered mountain slope atthe other end of the settlement, and is the easiest ascent to the Base. By"the Base" the islanders mean the top of the cliffs which gird the island, and which rise one thousand to two thousand feet. William appeared earlyin the morning to say he had collected several donkeys and could getsaddles for them. At nine o'clock we started forth, Graham, Ellen, Williamand I riding, Charlotte and Rebekah walking. It was decidedly difficult tokeep one's balance on a man's saddle. The reins--or rather what took theplace of them--consisted of a rope tied round the donkey's neck. We had aride of five miles over a rocky common and down some very steep pitches. Graham gave us all much amusement. His donkey stumbled twice insuccession, and he went right over its head. At the bottom of the hill wetethered the donkeys, and at once began the ascent. The distance up wassaid to be two miles, which took us about two hours to climb. The firstpart was over grassy mounds, but the latter portion involved a realscramble. We had to stoop to get under trees, and to push through thickbrushwood, while in places it was so steep we had to get on our knees andbe pulled up. To make matters worse the ground was very soppy. We arrivedat the top somewhat exhausted. Graham spread his mackintosh and I lay downon it thankful to rest. There was thick brushwood of phylica, of fern andcrowberry all round, and, tired as we were, I felt we could not make ourway through this. Graham and William went in search of water and soonprocured some. We had for luncheon captain's biscuits and chocolate, eatenunder a scorching sun. We had a beautiful view, and could see Nightingaleand Inaccessible quite clearly, the former island looking much the morerugged. We stayed up about two hours. Graham and William went off insearch of eaglet eggs. They only secured one. The poor hen which theycaught was given its freedom, but unfortunately the dogs got hold of it. 

Coming down was easy enough at first, but there came a time when I felt Icould do no more; the power seemed to have gone out of my legs, andreally, without help I do not know how I should have got down. At thebottom of the hill we saw a cheerful fire burning. Charlotte had got downfirst and was brewing tea. She and Rebekah had on their own initiativebrought a saucepan, tea and milk. We started home about 4. 30 when it wasalready getting dusk. Before long it was quite dark, but the donkeys knewtheir way. It took us about two hours to get to the settlement. Two orthree men came out to meet us, and nearer home at Hottentot Gulch we weremet by quite a party who were carrying a lantern--Mrs. Swain and Mrs. Rogers brought us some tea, which we drank sitting on our donkeys. I foundriding sideways on a man's saddle rather tiring, and I think we were allglad to get home. Mrs. Bob Green also most kindly sent us in a brew oftea. There were many inquiries as to how we had enjoyed the expedition, towhich we could honestly say very much, though for the next day or two wefelt very stiff. 

_Thursday, June_ l4. --We are having a spell of cold weather. There is snowon the mountains, and a good deal of hail has fallen. It is difficult tokeep warm at night. 

_Friday, June_ l5. --A beautiful day, but a cold wind. We sat up late lastnight over the fire warming our feet. 

_Monday, June_ l8. --We shall be very glad when we get our letters off, forwe know how anxious our people must be to hear. A ship was sightedyesterday far to the east. Graham said he thought he saw one when comingfrom early Communion, but I could see nothing. 

Yesterday (Sunday) it was so dark at the end of afternoon service that wecould not have the practice, so it has been settled to have service at twoo'clock, an hour which seems to suit the people better. The singing isimproving. We managed the "Venite" very well, and now mean to try the "TeDeum. " I intend to teach them a chant with three changes in it. In the endperhaps we shall sing the Psalms. Yesterday the children sang with muchvigour "There's a Friend for little children. " One little girl whose voicecould be heard above all the rest had a "strapping" from her father whenshe got home for singing too loud, poor little thing!

To-day the men put up a washing-stone at the east end of the house. Eachhouse has one near the water. The clothes to be washed are soaped, rubbedand slashed on it. The women often come and help Ellen to wash, and to-dayRebekah carried off some things for her mother to iron. I do my own thingsmyself outside the front door. Graham has been busy to-day whitewashingthe kitchen, and looked so comical in one of Ellen's aprons and with ahandkerchief tied over his head. 

Mrs. Martha Green, Betty's sister, came to see us this afternoon. Poorwoman, she has never recovered from the shock of the boat accident. Shethen lost her husband, two sons, two brothers, and, I believe, twobrothers-in-law. She presented me with a pair of stockings, the fourthpair I have had given me, and Graham with a pair of socks, and said wewere to tell her when we were in want of more. She lives with her marriedson Henry Green, and is the mother of Mrs. Repetto. 

We fear a great part of our garden will be useless, as there is so muchwhite mould in it which rots the roots of the plants. The only way to getrid of this mould which spreads very quickly is to burn it or cart itaway, so the people say. 

_Tuesday, June_ 19. --Rebekah came in on Sunday for some glycerine for hermother who suffers from asthma, or, as the people would say, "ashmere. "Her mother has taken it two nights running, and found it gave her muchrelief. It will now be believed in more than ever. 

_Friday, June_ 22. --On Wednesday night Glass came in to ask Graham if hewould go round the island with him and Tom Rogers. Graham was a littledoubtful at first on account of the school, but I promised to take it andso he settled to go. They started off when it was only just light at sixo'clock on Thursday morning on three donkeys. 

[Illustration: GOING WEST]

Ellen came up to help me with the school, and I managed all right. We hadan early lunch and spent the afternoon in needlework on the sea-shore. Wehad planned a cosy evening, but at about six o'clock Mrs. Glass andRebekah with Mabel Hagan and Florence appeared. They said something aboutspending the evening with us and stayed two hours much enjoyingthemselves. Early this afternoon Mary Repetto came in with some wood andtold me the party were returning. I ran out to find Graham unsaddling hisdonkey. He had had a fall over its head, but was none the worse. Thedonkey, it seems, took a deep step as its rider was gazing at the scenery. Graham looked tired, but said he had had a most enjoyable time. They rodeto just below Burntwood, where we were the other day; there they tetheredtheir donkeys and ascended the mountain to get past a bluff, and thendescended to the shore, along which they had a walk of about three milesover boulders and stones. The two men made nothing of this walk, butGraham says it was hard work for one unaccustomed to it, because it notonly bruised the feet but every step had to be chosen. They spent thenight in a cave on the beach, where they made a large fire and kept it upall night. There were five dogs. Rob insisted on sleeping by Graham'shead, and occasionally put his long nose across his face. Graham had aplank covered with tussock grass for a pillow and did not get much sleep. In the middle of the night Rob rose up and went for another dog, and agreat fight ensued. The men had to get up, and with difficulty the dogswere parted. Graham went for an early swim while the men cooked thebreakfast, which consisted of poached eaglet eggs and tea boiled in afrying-pan. In drying a new pair of socks at the camp fire he almostdestroyed one by burning big holes in it. Rob enjoyed himself amazingly, and learnt to hunt eaglets which nest in holes, but he had to berestrained, as he would have killed the birds. 

_Tuesday, June_ 26. --We have been having a spell of rain. Sunday was toowet to take the harmonium up to church, consequently we had to start thechants and hymns without an instrument. We got on all right until the lasthymn, at which we had three tries, then in desperation I made a stupendouseffort, and we pulled through. We had to have dinner at half-past twelveto be ready for service at two o'clock. I was deep in slumber when at fiveminutes to the hour Graham ran in to call me. It was a scramble, and I gotto church feeling half awake. The children answer so well, better thanchildren do at home; but then, of course, Graham knows exactly theircapabilities and catechizes on what he has been teaching in the week. Thepeople like learning new tunes, and sing them better than the old ones, which they are apt to drawl. To keep up to the mark involves a fair amountof practising at home, especially when you have no harmonium; you musthave the tunes and chants at your finger ends. For once we had theafternoon and evening to ourselves, and sat over the fire in the dusktalking over happy memories. 

Monday was wet again. Just as we were sitting down to one o'clock dinnerMrs. Hagan came in with her baby, saying she thought it was two o'clock. She stayed on till after three, having been joined by her daughter. Finally we left them to themselves, as I had yeast to make and Graham'shair to cut. When I came back she had departed. 

It rained in torrents last night and all to-day. School was impossible. With a free day before us we felt like children, and were settling downwhen William appeared with his reading-book. "Would Mr. Barrow 'larn'him"; so Graham buckled to for over an hour. It is nice to see a youngfellow so anxious to learn. Later on he came in with his hand bound up. Hehad cut it with a hatchet, happily not badly, and wanted me to dress it, his mother having already put a cobweb on. 

When Bob Green (William's step-father) came in with the milk he told us hehad seen a dead cow in the gulch. I fear it has died from wet andexposure. I cannot bear to think of the poor beasts suffering so. Onewinter more than a hundred were lost simply because there was not enoughfood for them. They climb up the mountains in search of grass, and oftenfrom weakness fall and are killed. 

CHAPTER X

_Tuesday, June_ 26 (_continued_). --At the request of the Custom Houseauthorities at Cape Town we brought on from there some stores which hadbeen sent by a French firm to the Tristanites in return for kindness shownby them to one of the firm's ships which had been on fire off Tristan. Inthe reply of the people to the kind inquiry what stores would be mostuseful to them the item "soap" was read as "soup, " with the result thatfour cases of tins of soup were received and no soap, much to theirdisappointment, for soap is more prized than anything. We have lately madethe acquaintance of some of these soups, which the people do not care for, as they have plenty of meat. Mrs. Bob Green sent us two tins of ox-tail, for which we gave her a brush and comb, although she said she didn't wantanything. A few days later William appeared with a further supply, soto-day we gave him two tins of jams to take to his mother. He persistentlysaid, "She don't want anything, " but as we insisted, he finally went offwith them. 

To-day the room has been rather like an Irish cabin, rain dropping throughthe ceiling, puffs of smoke coming down the chimney, and wind blowingthrough every crevice. At the fire on this hearth all the day's cookinghas had to be done. All the same we have been very cheerful and haveenjoyed a quiet day with few interruptions. I have been able to getthrough some work, and have been busy making a cover for the Communioncloth out of the material E---- gave us; with bands of white sateen and awhite cross in the centre it looks quite nice. Two little canaries Ibrought from the Cape have had to be put by the fireside to be kept warm. 

_Wednesday, June_ 27. --This morning to my dismay I found the rain had comedown the chimney on to the bowl of yeast which Ellen and I had preparedwith some labour, and had spoilt it. 

Repetto came in this evening with the cover for the harmonium. It is aclever piece of work. He turns his hand to almost anything, and can evenmake his own suits. Tonight he was decidedly droll, and in his brokenlanguage gave us a description of a certain wedding. There was only oneperson, a woman, who was able to read the marriage service, and she wouldnot, as she did not approve of the marriage. It ended in the bride'sbrother officiating, and, as he is no scholar, he had to spell out thewords as he went along. How we laughed!

_Thursday, June_ 28. --On Tuesday from half-past eight to midnight the raingauge measured four inches of rain. We hear about twenty-four cattle havedied. The cold wind and rain were fatal to them. The poor things could getno place of shelter. Graham wants the men to build some sort of shelterfor the cattle, and those to whom he has spoken about it say it would bean excellent plan. 

This morning we heard a cheerful clucking of fowls outside our bedroomwindow, and on looking out saw that the wind had blown the meat-safe overand emptied its contents on the path. The fowls were having a fine feastoff the suet. Graham was just in time to save the half leg of mutton. Welive on mutton week by week. Very occasionally a bullock is killed. Lastweek three families sent us beef. 

_Friday, June_ 29. --We shall feel relieved when we get our letters off, but at this time of year few ships are to be seen. 

Mrs. Repetto came in pouring rain for some of the much-famed glycerine forher baby who is ill. I gave her also camphorated oil to rub on its chest. 

_Wednesday, July_ 4. --Bill Rogers brought us some vine cuttings which weplanted and with great care nailed against the front of the house. Thenext morning one had been pulled up, probably by a pig. We suffer muchfrom the animals. Fowls are always roaming round, and snap up every bit ofgreen. Many of the ferns which we planted have been rooted up. A gate isto be put at each end of the path which will keep those intruders, atleast the four-footed ones, from the front of the house. 

Yesterday I started a women's meeting to which all over twenty years ofage were invited. Twelve came. I read some of the Gordon League Ballads tothem, and could see by their faces how much they enjoyed them. We hadthree hymns, and I spoke to them for about ten minutes, ending withprayer. I have given up the idea of teaching them reading and writing. Ido not think they are keen about it, and life is full without it. 

I was amused the other day by hearing that William calls me "The oldmissus. "

Rob is quite an addition to our home. He is such an affectionate dog andvery intelligent. In the morning when Ellen opens the front door to lethim out, he will not go until he has first come in to say good-morning tous, then he goes out cheerfully. On no account would he miss going toschool with me, and always expects to carry my basket. He has been lesstroublesome about running the sheep, although yesterday he ran at a sheepwith a lamb. The sheep bolted, and when I whistled Rob he came boundingtowards us with the lambling running by his side. The lamb was only threedays old, and we had to carry it home, the mother having altogetherdisappeared. At first we had some difficulty in supplying Rob with enoughfood; but now he has taken the matter into his own hands and goes round tothe different houses and gets a liberal supply of meat and bones. Healways pays the Glasses an early visit, sometimes before they are up. 

To-day Ellen and I gathered wood on the sea-shore and got such a quantitywe did not know how to carry it home; happily Alfred Green was coming ourway and "backed" it for us. 

_Tuesday, July_ 10. --An eventful day--the one we have been looking for. When I was resting after lunch there came a quick tap at the back door, and William hurried in to say a ship was in sight. We all rushed out, andgetting on to higher ground saw her sails. We could also see our menrunning home from their work. We stood at Bill Rogers' gate where othershad collected. They soon scattered to get ready to put off, though thewind was high and the sea rough. Children were sent out to catch theanimals for barter. We came back to get our letters ready; among them wereorders for groceries to the Army and Navy stores and to Messrs. Cartwright's at Cape Town. Mrs. Swain, junior, came in for our letters andtold us only four men were going, her husband, Tom and Bill Rogers andHenry Green. We went down with her to the shore and met Ben who had cometo fetch our letters as the boat was ready to start. We saw them hoisttheir sail and watched on with Mrs. Martha Green, Betty and Repetto untilit began to grow dusk. Mrs. Bob Green had tea with us, and a little laterRepetto came in anxious to have a talk. He and Graham stood at the frontdoor trying in vain to make out the ship. Soon others came in to ask foroil and candle for their lanterns, so that they might be ready to meet thereturning boat. At about six o'clock we turned out and made for the firewhich had been lighted on the cliff. We had some difficulty in crossingthe stream as we had no lantern. Looking after the fire was Rebekah, andlater there came Mrs. Green, Alfred, Bob Green and the two other wives. The wind was blowing cold, and we were glad to sit near the blaze. You canpicture the scene; pitchy darkness all round except where now and againgleams of light fell on the sounding sea below and made dimly visible thewhite line of surf. After staying some time, as there was no sign of theboat, we and the women went home. 

It is now nine o'clock and still no sign of the men. 

_Wednesday, July_ 11. --As we were getting up news came that the boat wasreturning. We went down to the beach and found every one there and theboat just coming in. It had reached the vessel, which was bound forAustralia. Henry Green went on board, and the captain, who seemed a verykind man, was able to let them have a barrel of flour, biscuits, and otherthings, and would have spared more had there been time. Henry was onlyabout fifteen minutes on board. Our men made for Sandy Point, as thelanding was easier, and spent the night there. We are so thankful to havegot our letters off at last, and think they will reach home about the endof September. [Footnote: They reached home early in October. ]The captain sent papers for the clergyman, which Graham was delighted tohave, and from which we learnt of the terrible eruption of Mount Vesuviusand of the great fire at San Francisco. Among the papers was one from St. Helena. As regards the stores obtained, only those who went out to theship and the widows will share in them. The rule is a man must go himself, unless ill or absent, to have a share in anything obtained in the name ofthe community. Sheep, geese, fowls, eggs and potatoes are the thingsbartered. It has been very difficult to settle down to-day, and there wasonly a short school. I did not go up to it, as I got my boots wet when theboat landed. A wave swept in while I was trying to stop a quarrel amongstthe dogs. To get the salt water out of the leather my boots were put, after island fashion, into the brook for a time and then hung upside downon the garden gate to drain and dry. 

_Thursday, July_ l2. --We had our choir practice as usual and took up theharmonium, as we find with chants we cannot well do without it. Thechildren sang scales. 

I try a little cooking now and again, and have made some fairly successfulpotato scones. Ellen made some good bread this week with yeast. I claim alittle of the glory of it, as I did most of the kneading! We find we aredoing at present on one pound of flour a day for all purposes, but it hasto be used very sparingly. We now generally use our stove every other day, as, though small, it consumes a good deal of wood which the people have togo so far to get. 

Graham has been busy plastering the holes in the walls of the house, firstfilling them in with stone wedges. We have sent to Cape Town for lead forthe roof. It is only when it is raining very hard that the rain comesthrough. The south wall in the sitting-room, passage and kitchen is a richgreen colour from the damp. The people say this winter has been thewettest they have known for a long time. 

_Friday, July_ l3. --We had our first sewing-class this afternoon. Thirteengirls came. Nearly all produced thimbles, and their sewing was very muchbetter than I expected. Ellen superintended the little ones, while I readaloud a book lent by Mrs. Susan Swain. We sat on forms near the door toget as much air as possible. 

_Saturday, July_ l4. --Graham was busy to-day whitewashing the front of thehouse; it was not easy work, as the stone is so rough. John BaptistLavarello, a boy of twelve, and about the most intelligent lad here, helped him. 

CHAPTER XI

I have drawn up a list of the people, starting from the house furthesteast. The figures after the names denote the age. 

1. Mrs. Martha Green (widow). Mr. And Mrs. Henry Green. Alfred, 17. Ethel, 15. Maria, 11. Johnny, 9. Christopher, 1. 

2. Mr. And Mrs. Sam Swain, senior. Charlotte, 21. Lily, 19. Ruth, 17. Selina, 9. Maggie, 7. Bill Green (lodger). 

3. Mr. And Mrs. Repetto. Mary, 11. Martha, 9. Susan, 7. Arthur, 6. Willie, 4. Joe, 1. 

4. Mrs. Rogers (widow). Tom. Mr. And Mrs. Sam Swain, junior. Harry, 7. Edith, 5. Tommy, 3. Eliza, 9 months. 

5. Mr. And Mrs. Andrew Swain. Fred, 12. James, 9. George, 8. Rose, 5. Clara, 3. 

6. Mr. And Mrs. William Rogers. Arthur, 6. Lizzie, 4. Jack, 10 months. 

7. Mrs. Lucy Green (widow). 

8. Mr. And Mrs. Bob Green. William Rogers, 15. Sophia Rogers, 11. Edward, 5. Charlie, 4. 

9. Miss Cotton. 

10. Mr. And Mrs. John Glass. Florence Swain, 3. 

11. Mrs. Mary Glass (widow). Miss Caroline Swain. Mr. And Mrs. Lavarello. John Baptist, 10. Robert, 8. Willie, 6. Percy, 3. 

12. Mrs. Eliza Hagan (widow). Mr. And Mrs. Andrew Hagan. Emma, 12. Mabel, 9. David, 5 months. 

13. Mrs. Susan Swain (widow). Ben, 35. Rebekah, 28. 

Mrs. Lucy Green is living with Mrs. Eliza Hagan, and Miss Cotton in anannexe to the house in which Bob Green lives. 

_Wednesday, July_ l8. --This afternoon Ellen and I decided to try our handat craw-fishing, as the contents of our larder were rather low. She gotsome meat from Mrs. Glass, and we set forth furnished with a pair of tongsin place of a landing-net. As we neared the rocks we saw two figuressilhouetted against the rays of the setting sun which proved to be thoseof Mrs. Glass and her daughter Mrs. Lavarello. We did not succeed incatching anything, but Mrs. Lavarello gave us her catch of three crawfishand two small fish. She caught an octopus, which they call cat-fish, horrid-looking creatures:--how she could handle them I do not know. 

Birthdays are thought a good deal of here. If a household possesses anytea or coffee, then open house is kept for the whole day, and any one candrop in from early morning till late in the evening and expect a cup ofsomething. On the first occasion of a birthday we were invited, but Grahamfelt it would not be wise to accept, as if we went to one we should haveto go to all. We are always apprised of a birthday by a present from theperson whose birthday it is. The present may be a pair of socks orstockings, or a hot dish of meat, or a pot of tea, or almost anything tobe had. Of course, we give something in return, often a tin of jam in thecase of an elder. The last birthday was Mrs. Hagan's, to whom we offeredthe choice of a couple of candles or a tin of jam; she chose the former. They much treasure a piece of candle. 

We find our medicine chest greatly appreciated, and every remedy isthought a great deal of. I gave two rhubarb pills to a patient, and wastold she had had no ache or pain since. She was rather poorly, and hadtaken to her bed, having caught a chill the night of the bonfire. 

[Illustration: IN SCHOOL]

_Friday, July_ 20. --This morning after first school I took a photograph ofthe children. 

We have been measuring our rooms. The sitting-room is 16 feet by 11 feet 6inches. Our bedroom is 9 feet 9 inches by 8 feet 8 inches. Ellen's room 6feet 8 inches by 6 feet. The kitchen 11 feet 3 inches by 6 feet 4 inches. The height is 7 feet 2 inches. 

_Saturday, July 21_. --Today it has been blowing a gale. I was up soonafter seven as it was baking day, but found it was no good attempting tobake as the oven could never be heated with such a wind, so I raked thefire out. Tomorrow we must do without bread. Graham started off early forschool, escorting home Mrs. Hagan, who had brought the meat. As they goton to the rising ground they were both blown over, and coming back fromschool he was blown down again. I didn't venture out, but nearly all thechildren turned up, the younger ones being carried by their parents. Thisafternoon, however, though it was still blowing, I went with Graham to thefoot of the mountain to get some drinking water at the spring. We do notdrink water from the stream outside, as on its way to us it passes otherhouses, and we do not know what may go into it. Our bedroom today wascovered with dust from the thatch. Betty Cotton came in to tea. Sitting inthe armchair she chatted away most cheerfully. She has not lived all herlife here, but has been away twice to the Cape where she was in service. She would have returned again to South Africa, but for her old father andmother whom she stayed to look after. Her heart is really at the Cape. Sheis one of those who tries to carry out Mr. Dodgson's teaching, and israrely absent from church. Another woman told Ellen today if she had tocreep on her hands and knees tomorrow to get to church, she would do itrather than miss going. I believe Mr. Dodgson once actually did reachchurch in this way. 

_Monday, July 23_. --A poor cow of Andrew Swain's sank in the bog yesterdayand the men could not get it out. They succeeded, however, in rescuing oneof Lucy Green's; the poor thing looked so wet and miserable standing underthe wall of Lavarello's lamb-house. The cattle question is a very seriousone and ought to be dealt with. Repetto has been here this afternoon, andGraham has been talking it over with him. The fact is, there are far morecattle than there is pasture for. People who have left the island stillown cattle and sheep here, which ought not to be allowed, because there isnot enough grazing ground for the cattle of the residents. It is toopainful to see the cattle, they are so emaciated, and their back legs seemhardly able to support their bodies. Repetto says they will look worsestill. We are hoping something may be done when the man-of-war comes. 

_Tuesday, July 24_. --William told us Betty's cow that had been put in herfield adjoining this garden was ill. Graham went with the boys to lookafter it and fed it with grass. This evening it was dead. Like the othersit died from starvation. Mrs. Lucy Green has lost two, the one that wasgot out of the bog and another that fell over the cliff. We are determinedto do something if possible to stop the suffering. The pigs which areallowed to roam at large do much damage by rooting up the grass. 

There were only eight at the women's meeting today. Graham gave theaddress. Mrs. Repetto, who had not been before, stopped on the common totell us "It was the best afternoon she had spent in her life, better thanany party. " It was an encouragement when so few were there. Some are keptaway by having to go out two or three miles for milking, the cows beingtoo weak to be driven home. Betty and Martha Green could not come becausethey were preparing a meal for the men who are carting manure to Betty'spotato patch. It is the custom to feed those who are working for you. 

_Wednesday, July 25_. --I had to get up in the night as Ellen was feelingill. She had a bad pain in the back of her neck which was relieved by theapplication of a mustard-leaf. She did not get up all day. So I was keptbusy, even with the assistance Graham was able to give before and afterschool. As we had not baked for nearly a week, I had to bake bread as wellas to cook the dinner. Graham broiled the chops; the kidneys twice fellinto the fire, and were finally lost. 

It has been raining most of the day. Mrs. Hagan told me a cow of hers hadfallen over the cliff and been killed. I was almost thankful to hear therewas one less to suffer. 

_Friday, July 27_. --Before we were up William brought news that a ship wasin sight, but too far eastward to reach. Directly after breakfast the menstarted shooting a bullock which darkness the night before had preventedthem bringing down. The poor creature was chased by men firing shots, andit was some time before they succeeded in shooting it. Mrs. Hagan ran into say the ship was in sight again, and she thought the men were going outto it. I went up to the school to see what Graham was going to do. We gavea short lesson, dismissed school, and came home to finish our letters. Repetto ran in to ask Graham if he were going. I went down to see themoff. I always enjoy seeing a boat launched and the men scrambling in as itis shoved off. The only thing I do not like to see is the way the pooranimals are treated, tossed into the boat with legs tied, quite regardlessas to whether it hurts them. The two boats started about 11. 30, and inabout an hour and a half reached the ship, having sailed most of the way. I followed them on and off with the glasses. They got back about five, andwe could tell they had done well, for they were singing as they came in. The vessel was the _Loch Katrine_, a sailing ship from Glasgow. Thecaptain for the last nine years had been trying to call, but the weatherwas against him. He was exceedingly kind, and able to provide theislanders with a good deal of food in exchange for what they had brought. He let them have a large barrel of flour, biscuits, tea, coffee and sugar. The bottom of the sugar barrel fell out and the sugar lay on the deck; butthat was soon remedied: it was all swept into a bag. The bag had containedmeat, but that was a small detail. One of the passengers on board boughttwo sheep for the crew, and with his other fellow-passenger made manyexchanges with the islanders. The captain was most kind and generous tous. He asked Graham if there was anything he wanted, so Graham named a kegof butter. But that he could not provide, and asked if there was anythingelse. Graham thought of bacon, and then the captain said would he like aham? Not only did he give that, but a large tin of arrowroot, a bottle ofpickles, and a bottle of preserved greengages; and sent in addition two orthree pounds of tea as a special present to me, saying he wished it weresomething better. The steward, too, said he would like to send "the lady"a present from himself, and sent six pieces of scented soap. It wasexceedingly kind of them. The captain said his life was a trying one, there being anxiety and worry day and night. Graham got the time, andfound we were forty minutes behind. He was ill going and returning, butsoon felt better after he had got warm and had food, for he had virtuallyhad nothing since breakfast. How we enjoyed looking at our presents! Aftersuch an exciting day we didn't sleep much. The letters will be posted inAustralia. 

_Saturday, July 28_. --It being a lovely afternoon Ellen and I wenteastward to gather wood on Big Beach, where we collected as much as threecould carry. Graham and William came to help us home with it. Ellencarried some in her skirt, Graham took off his jacket and made a bundle, and William "backed" a bagful. 

[Illustration: BIG BEACH]

_Tuesday, July 31_. --It has been a busy day. I made scones beforebreakfast and baked them on tins over an open fire, baking my face at thesame time. I was at school for two hours, and then sat down to machinetill dinner-time. At three o'clock I took the women's meeting, where wefinished the twenty-third Psalm. It was blowing and raining hard when wecame home. We found Repetto repairing for us a pair of bellows that hadbelonged to Mr. Dodgson. Charlotte Swain came for some glycerine for hermother who has asthma again. Later, Rebekah came in with her niece Mabel, bringing some tablecloths her mother had ironed. Mabel shyly offered ussome fish. Rebekah stayed some time, Repetto till seven. The cattlequestion was again discussed with him. Fifty-four have already died. If weare only able to do some good as regards the cattle it will have beensomething worth coming out for. I cannot bear to look at the poorcreatures. One of Betty's has several times got into our garden and had agood feast. A few days ago it calved. So many have calves; I do not knowhow they live. To finish the account of the day's work, after supper breadhad to be made. Alas! in the morning it turned out to be rather heavy. 

Repetto, who is very fond of reading, has lent us a short biography ofMelanchthon, which we are reading aloud. 

In one of the Glasgow papers that came from the _Loch Katrine_ there is anotice of De P----'s sudden death in Paris. It is curious we should havelearnt the news in this way. We never find time to read till the evening, and even then it often has to be put aside for writing. 

We are glad to be getting through the winter. The thermometer has neverbeen lower than 44. The winds are very keen, and lately an east wind hasbeen blowing, which is unusual. 

I find teaching infants needs much patience, but some days they are muchbrighter than others. They are getting on, and the four elder ones canread short words quite easily. They each have a book and read round inturn. The others, who know their alphabet, stand round, too, but of coursetake in but little. The four can actually add two to a number, and ArthurRepetto can even add four and five together. He puts his back intowhatever he does. His mother is, I believe, rather stern with herchildren; and some think they are whipped too much. However this may be, they seem to be turning out well. Certainly all the mothers seem to teachtheir children good manners; for example, if our boy William sees mestanding in school, he will get up and offer me a seat. He is verythoughtful, and if we express a wish about anything, it is sure to bedone. His duties are to chop wood, to go to the spring for the drinkingwater, and to fill the pails twice a day. If he happens not to be at homehe always sees that some one else does his work. 

_Thursday, August 2_. --This afternoon after choir practice Ellen and Iwent down to the rocks, although it was very cold, to try to catchcraw-fish. We had not started fishing when we saw William running towardsus. He came to say a ship was in view to the west and that the men weregoing off. So of course we hurried up again to get our letters ready. Theboats put off about five o'clock and probably will not be back beforedaylight. 

_Friday, August 3_. --The men returned late last evening after a fruitlessjourney. Although it was a moonlight night they failed to sight the ship. They were very wet. 

Graham is digging the lower part of the garden. It is covered with turfwhich, as he removes, he banks up to form a little shelter from the windfor the vegetables, if ever there are any. Flax shelters the bed on theother side. The digging is rather laborious, as there are large stoneswhich have to be extracted with a crowbar. The soil is first-rate, and sofar no mildew has been met with. One of the greatest enemies to the seedswill be the fowls, and because of them probably we shall have to sow firstin boxes. Graham has made a needle and mesh so that we can make nets. Repetto has shown us how to start netting. It is not known who broughtflax to the isle, but Betty says her father and his contemporaries broughtit to the settlement from Sandy Point. 

CHAPTER XII

_Friday, August_ 10. --We had a gale last Wednesday. It was with somedifficulty we got to the women's meeting which had been postponed the daybefore on account of the weather; we had to go by a circuitous route. Onlythree women came, and I was debating whether to have the meeting when Imissed my spectacles. I felt sure they had been blown off by the wind. Mrs. Repetto and Mrs. Hagan went off to search for them, and Ellen and Isoon followed. It seemed rather a hopeless task as we had come by such around-about way. I went home to see if I could possibly have left thembehind; but no, they were not there. The loss of them was rather serious, as I had broken my pince-nez the day after landing. I felt sure they wouldbe found if only we searched long enough, and presently I came across onehalf of them. By this time about fourteen people, men as well as women, were looking for them. The gale was terrific, and when the gusts came theonly thing to do was to crouch down. It was a comical sight, and I wish Icould have photographed it. I was caught hold of several times by one ofthe elder girls and held when the gusts came. I promised a pot of jam tothe one who should find the other half of the spectacles. We had been outover an hour and were beginning to think we must leave further search tillthe morning when John Glass found it. It had been blown some distance fromthe spot where I had found the first half. Glass was going to take themhome to try to mend them when he was called off to a poor cow that hadfallen down. At his suggestion Graham took them to Repetto, who broughtthem down in the evening. He is going to mend my pince-nez with a watchspring. From what he told us I fear the loss of cattle must be close upona hundred. 

_Monday, August_ 13. --We have been building a most delightful castle inthe air to-day. If a man-of-war comes we might go back in it to Cape Townand try to arrange with some enterprising person to come in a schooner andbuy up the cattle here at a low price. What commissions we should have toexecute for the people!

This has been a full day from morning till evening. I began laundry workat 7. 30, made a yeast, then potato-cakes, superintended the planting ofpeach-slips against the house, paid a visit to Mrs. Henry Green, andentertained about seven visitors--several with requests to be attended to. Graham was digging all the afternoon. 

_Tuesday, August_ 14. --Little Edith Swain, one of the infants, has had acough, and as her mother said she thought she had not warm enoughclothing, I set to and knitted her a vest in two days. This morning Edithappeared alone, and pushing past Ellen, who opened the door, came and putinto my hand something tied up in a pocket-handkerchief, which somethingproved to be a pair of stockings. Her mother, who came in later, told methat Edith asked if she could not give Mrs. Barrow a present, so she gaveher the pair of stockings to bring. She said to her mother, "Did you offerMrs. Barrow a cup of tea when she came?" She is not a very bright childand cannot learn her ABC, though she learns by heart very nicely. 

The Repetto's youngest child, Joe, who is not yet two, asked his fatherfor a book the other day and marched off to school with it. He got acrossthe brook without getting wet, and as he neared the school door was heardsinging, "Onward, Christian Soldiers. " His sister Martha soon dispatchedhim home, poor little fellow. Repetto came this afternoon with thepince-nez which he had mended. He stayed supper and gave us furtherinstruction in netting. 

_Wednesday, August 15_. --Today I sowed flower seeds; a performance whichintensely interested the children who crowded round the front door. I usedbiscuit-tins for boxes, which William filled with soil. I have plantedbulbs of a Mentone creeper, love-in-a-mist, heather, sweet peas and cannaseeds. One does sadly miss the spring flowers. Afterwards I went down tothe beach with Sophy and the Repetto girls to pick up wood. Rob carriedthe canvas bag which was rolled up, and it was amusing to see himcareering after the sea-hens (skua-gulls) at a tremendous pace with thebag in his mouth. The girls picked up more wood than we could carry home. We have had some more peach-slips brought, which we have planted under theshelter of the flax, and yesterday William brought more than a dozen appletrees and cuttings, and is going to bring some young fig trees. Thus weshall have quite an orchard, if they grow, but the "if" is a big one. Thepeople do not seem to take any trouble with their fruit trees and hardlyever prune them. Perhaps they are disheartened on account of the rats. Most of the orchards are a long way off in sheltered ravines round theisland. 

The men lead fairly busy lives. Last month they were occupied in drawingout manure in the quaint bullock wagons to their potato patches, which areabout three miles off. It was no easy business as the bullocks were not upto the work owing to their starved condition. Each man possesses aboutthree pairs of bullocks. This week they will begin planting potatoes, andsome of the children will have to be away from school as their help willbe needed. 

This evening I made the small boys help to gather grass for the cattle, which we threw to them over the wall. It gave me great satisfaction to seethem eating it, and a particularly lean one had quite a good feast. I tryto feed them every day, and get the Repetto girls to help. 

I feel a little elated as I have made some rather good bread. 

There was a thunderstorm to-day. The weather is quite spring-like, thedays are warm but the nights cold. 

Ellen and I had such an evening yesterday. With much misgiving Idetermined to try to develop some films--my first attempt. The kitchen wasthe darkroom. We began operations soon after supper and did not get to bedtill nearly midnight. The developing was done under great difficulties. The candle had to be renewed two or three times, and I was left in totaldarkness at most critical moments. Notwithstanding, nine out of twelvehave come out fairly well. I hope I shall manage better next time. 

Repetto has been talking over the cattle question with some of the men, and telling them how much better off they would be if they limited thenumber of cattle and sheep to be owned by each family, say, to ten cattleand fifty sheep. He pointed out to them what a benefit it would be if aschooner could come yearly to trade. He thinks the cattle ought to sell at£3 a head. If possible Graham would go to the Cape with one of the menchosen by themselves. 

[Illustration: THE HENRY GREEN FAMILY AT WORK ON A POTATO PATCH]

_Friday, August_ 24. --Yesterday a ship came close in, but the sea wasrough and the men were busy at their potato patches. 

_Monday, August_ 27. --Saturday was very blustery, and the rain came downin torrents. We kept thinking of the poor cattle. Several were shelteringunder the wall at the bottom of the garden and looking so miserable. Ellenand I felt sure one or two would be gone by morning; and sure enough theywere. Altogether twelve died that night. It really made me feel ill. Thenumber of deaths has now reached to one hundred and eighty-four. Betty'scow that has several times clambered into the garden comes round sometimesin the middle of the night, clattering up the stone pathway to see if itcan get in. It has just calved. The men are all very down-hearted, neverhaving had such losses before. Henry Green has lost over forty. Repetto, who does not own many, has lost four, two bullocks and two cows, within afew days. The two cows he had lately kept in his garden. Graham told himthat he thought the islanders had brought the loss upon themselves bykeeping too many. 

_Tuesday, August_ 28. --Yesterday the wind was bitterly cold, to-day we arein the lee and it is quite mild. 

We had an early dinner as Graham had promised Rebekah to help her plantpotatoes. He went off with spade on shoulder and did not get home tillsupper-time. Rebekah, accompanied by young Mrs. Swain, brought in somecooked lamb for his supper. Mrs. Swain said Tom was full of his praisesbecause of the way he had worked; "he had done it better than anystranger, and real splendid. "

We heard to-day that the number of lost cattle has reached two hundred. Avery wet night. 

_Wednesday, August_ 29. --To-day we have come across so many dead animals. This morning close to the school a heifer, then this afternoon when Grahamand I went out for a walk we saw near Miss Cotton's field close to thestream a poor dying ox. Graham went in search of some one and metLavarello coming with a bag of grass, but the poor beast was too far goneto eat. I told Lavarello I hoped he would kill it, and he said he wouldfetch a knife. We went on to the shore; there a young heifer lay dying, ithad fallen off the cliff. Further on we saw a dead donkey, and coming upthe cliff I saw another dead heifer. It makes one feel very sad and veryangry. 

Ellen, who is anxious to do a little teaching, is taking on Monday andWednesday afternoons the children who are most backward in reading. 

_Saturday, September_ 1. --Yesterday just across the watering we came upona poor cow which was down. I got it some grass, and the Swain girls comingup helped to heave it up into a better position. Then old Mrs. Glassbrought it some more food, which it ate ravenously. We fed it again in theafternoon. It belongs to the Lavarellos, who in the morning managed to getit home. This is the only case I know of a cow which was down gettingbetter. 

_Monday, September_ 3. --Betty's cow that we are so interested in has lostits calf. If more to eat had been given the mother I do not think thiswould have happened. The cow has been up to the house two or three timesto-day, and I have fed her well each time. Poor thing, it is so hungry. Wehave had better weather the last few days, and are hoping for the animals'sake this will be a fine month. 

_Wednesday, September_ 5. --A most beautiful day. Graham and Repetto havebeen sowing carrots, onions, lettuce, and parsley. I have put in someflower seeds. I went several times to feed a poor bullock of HenryGreen's. It was standing when we first saw it in the morning and was justable to get down to the stream to drink. I fed it frequently in theafternoon, but when I went again at five o'clock it would eat nothing andsoon afterwards died. 

The men were out fishing and brought back seven sacks of fish. 

_Monday, September 10_. --Yesterday the fowls had a field day in theflower-bed, and scratched up and ate a good many of the sweet peas. 

This morning news was brought that "Molly, " Betty's sick cow, was down. Rebekah had found her early with her head caught under her body and tooweak to free herself. She was got up, and we have been feeding her on andoff all day. She stood in the field at the bottom of this garden until theevening, when to our great surprise she dragged herself to the front ofthe house where she has been so often fed. It is a wet rough night. I hopeshe will not succumb. 

_Wednesday, September l2_. --Poor "Molly" died yesterday morning. It hadpoured hard all night, and she was found lying in Bob Green's yard. Theygot her up, but she fell, and was pulled up again. Then she ate a little, but again fell down panting, and nothing more could be done for her. Ifeel very indignant about it, for if she had had shelter and more food, both of which were possible, she would probably not have died. About twohundred and eighty cattle have now died, and each day is adding to thelist. 

After supper last night the Repettos came in. He was a little anxiousabout his leg, which he cut just above the knee when skinning an animal. The cut was rather deep, but it did not bleed. Now there is a lump whichseems to be gathering. I bathed it with Condy's fluid then and again nextmorning, and told him to rest for two or three days. 

It has been a lovely day; we have had so few with right sunshine and nowind. 

_Thursday, September 13_. --This morning I photographed the Sam Swainfamily at their special request. Swain wants to send a photograph of thefamily to his mother at the Cape. There was such an attiring of themselvesbeforehand, but all the picturesqueness was gone when they appeared, forthey had discarded their handkerchiefs. Charlotte wanted to know if theyshould wear hats instead. I was thankful to be able to say it would not doas they would cast a shadow on their faces. 

On Thursdays we have choir practice. It is amusing to see the harmoniumbeing carried up in triumph by two of the elder boys, a bevy of littleboys following at their heels, and one proud boy bearing some music. Atthe end of the practice I have been teaching the children prayers formorning and evening. I told them that as soon as they could say them offby heart they should have the printed card. Last Thursday and to-day thechildren came up in turn to say them. It took rather a long time, butnearly all have gained the card. 

Every afternoon now Graham is very busy building up the wall of the fieldbelow our garden as he is anxious to grow a crop of hay. The men are verydubious about it, but he intends to try for the sake of the cows. TomRogers took a cow and calf in a boat to the other side of the island wherethere is plenty of pasture. When he went to look at them yesterday the cowwas dead. It had probably been taken too late. 

_Friday, September 14_. --Another full day. I have been three times toyoung Mrs. Rogers to poultice an abscess. I have also been to batheRepetto's leg. Then old Mrs. Rogers came in for some arrowroot whichI had promised her for her daughter, Mrs. Bob Green, who has a baby girl. We had the sewing-class as usual, and after it Ellen and I with a groupof children went to gather wood on Big Beach and got back home soonafter five o'clock. Graham, helped by Johnny Green, spent the afternoonin building the wall of the field. It is rather heavy work gettinglarge stones up the bank. The other evening while Ellen and I weredeveloping films he was soling a pair of shoes. It was his first attemptat boot-mending, and he has done it remarkably well. 

This is the season for penguin eggs, and we have had a number given us. Wefind them a great help in the daily menu. Milk at present is notobtainable and potatoes are getting very scarce. 

_Saturday, September 15_. --This morning I photographed the Repetto and theLavarello families, who want to send photographs to their relatives inItaly. 

CHAPTER XIII

_Monday, September 17_. --We are taking a week's holiday, but to-day therehas been little rest. I was up by 7. 15 to do laundry work, then at 9. 30was with Mrs. Rogers dressing her wound. This afternoon I went to see Mrs. Bob Green and her baby, also Miss Cotton. The latter seems to think theseare the worst times she has known. The people have never been without milkbefore. The number of cattle that have died has now reached three hundredand fifteen. The cow Bob Green is trying to save is slung in a shed. It isso weak it can hardly walk. Little Charlie frightened it the other day andit fell on its side. On Sunday it fell across the brook, from whichposition it was extricated with the greatest difficulty. If it had notbeen discovered it would have died. 

_Wednesday, September 19_. --We have had two wet ays and have been verybusy in-doors. The people being short of tea and sugar, we thought that onthe anniversary of our wedding-day we would give out some we brought withus. Notice having been given, they appeared en masse at the hour named, but without anything to take provisions away in, so the younger women wentback to get tins. Graham gave out the sugar (2 lbs. Each), and I the tea(1 lb. Each); but only half this quantity was given to widows andunmarried women. The people were very pleased, and one or two came backwith offerings. I should think that in the last ten days we have had onehundred eggs given us. Tom Rogers went to Sandy point and brought backover two hundred penguin eggs. The men when they have spare time hunt foryoung eaglets, of which they are now bringing in great quantities. Theseare sea-birds, and look like grey, fluffy balls. 

We have quite made up our minds to go to Cape Town to see about aschooner. Though there will be no cattle to sell there will be a greatnumber of sheep. We shall take the first vessel we can get after October. 

This morning it took me four hours to bake bread in a very hot kitchen. 

_Thursday, September 20_. --This afternoon Ellen and I went to look at Mrs. Hagan's grey cow, which is slowly pulling round. As we were watching itthe poor creature tripped going in at the gate, and falling on its sidehad to be pulled up. 

_Saturday, September 22_. --I spent nearly all yesterday at photography. The morning was given to printing, the afternoon to developing the prints, and the evening to developing negatives, which were mostly groups of thedifferent families and which came out fairly well. 

Ellen and I have spent today at the potato patches. We started early, wending our way slowly. At Hill Piece Rebekah joined us. It was sad to seeso many dead cattle lying about in every direction; the air is quitevitiated. The potatoes are coming on well. We had our lunch under the leeof a hill, at the foot of which were grazing a few miserable-lookingcattle. We came home most leisurely, and just as we were arriving at thesettlement heard that a vessel was to be seen to the west, and that themen were going out to her. Repetto came for our letters on his way down tothe shore. But after all the men did not go, for when they got down to theboats they found the ship was not coming this way, but passing between theislands--that is, between us and Inaccessible and Nightingale, so they hadto bring all their things up from the beach again. 

_Monday, September 24_. --We began school to-day feeling much fresher forour holiday. Some of the men have gone off for penguin eggs. I wish theydid not take them in quite such a wholesale way. 

_Tuesday, September 25_. --The men returned to-day from Sandy Point withshoals of penguin eggs. Four different families have sent us some, seventyin all, and as they are a good size, rather larger than a duck's, it willtake us some time to get through them. 

This morning and afternoon I went to look at the invalid cows. Rebekah isnot wanting in spirit. Her cow was "down" at the potato patches. She hadit lifted into a cart and brought home at night. She has it slung and letsit take an airing in the day. To-day we found it lying down on its side asif dead, and if left long in this position it would have died. It washauled up by the women and girls and set on its legs. I went to see theHagans' and Tom Rogers' cows, which were out on the common. Both had to bepulled up, which was done with the utmost difficulty. Their poor sides getso sore from constant falls. The grass is really beginning to show alittle growth, but not enough to get much food off it. 

This has been a most beautiful day and the air quite balmy. The seeds, such as stock, nasturtium, linum, phlox, and sweet pea, are doing well inthe garden. The greater number of the apple-trees are showing life. Wewatch everything growing with the greatest interest. 

_Wednesday, September 26_. --About nine o'clock we heard there was a shipto the westward; but Graham went off to school. While there he was toldLavarello's cow was in the bog; and so he went out to it with Johnny andtwo of the elder girls, they fetched a rope, then he and Johnny took offtheir shoes and socks and waded into the bog. Soon several men came, whoheaved up the back legs of the cow while Graham and the others pulled atthe rope fastened to its horns. It was at last pulled out broadside on. Its legs had completely sunk in the bog, and it would probably haveeventually sunk altogether, as many others before it, had it not been seenin time. When I arrived at school I found the children as quiet and goodas if Graham were there. He soon came back, and almost immediatelydismissed school as the men were starting for the ship. He made up hismind to go too. Only one boat was going, as some of the men had gone offearly in the other boat to hunt birds and get eggs. There was such apacking of the animals into the boat; I do not like looking at them, theyare so frightened. One poor lamb died on its way to the shore. Some onedeclared its death was caused by a child sitting on it, but I do not thinkit was. They started off about eleven o'clock and did not get to the shiptill nearly three. At about six we went down to the shore with Mrs. Repetto to meet them returning. They had no sooner landed than Rob had atremendous fight with her fox terrier. For some time we could not get themseparated. Graham got Rob by the back legs and dragged at him. In thescramble we found ourselves in the surf, where I fell down. Still Rob heldon. At last by slapping him on the head and by pulling at his collar hewas made to let go. The fox terrier was snatched up and carried off. 

The men were not very successful on the ship which was a Scotch one boundfor Adelaide. They got about a barrel of flour and some peas and beans. Graham got a tin of butter which we think is margarine. We are glad tohave it as we have had no butter for a long time. After a time one getsaccustomed to going without. Our present difficulty is to get food forRob. We do not think he gets much from the people now. We have just madean arrangement with the Repettos to let us have meat twice a week for himin exchange for paraffin oil. We got one or two books off the ship--_Robert Falconer_, and _Youth and Duty_, by Bishop Welldon. We have muchenjoyed _Temple Bar_. 

I have been turning out some summer clothes, and washing and mending themin preparation for the possible journey to Cape Town. 

_Saturday, September 29_. --There is no doubt the best way to come out herefrom England is by a sailing ship bound for Australia, that is, supposingthe ship would accept passengers for the island. The passage takes fromforty-five to sixty days. 

_Wednesday, October 3_. --Last Friday, after the working party, Ellen and Istarted off with a great number of children for Hill Top, near which thereis a good deal of wood washed down by the flood in the early winter. Thechildren enjoyed helping us to gather it; much of it was embedded in themud. The men passing by on their way home also lent their help by carryinghome some of the loads in sacks on their donkeys. There was much laughterover the loading of one of the donkeys which turned restive. We left alarge heap behind to be brought by William another day. The oxen are soweak they are hardly fit to draw even a light load. The dead cattle nowtotal three hundred and forty-eight. 

[Illustration: PAIR OF PENGUINS ON A PORCH WITH TWO BOYS]

On Sunday William brought in a penguin which Sophy had caught. It is amost droll bird in appearance, and has a yellow and black top-knot whichit raises when excited. It walks very erect--if walk it can be called--sometimes jumping like a man in a sack, and sometimes waddling like abow-legged child. In the place of wings it has black flippers, and whenit walks these stand out like sails which adds to the droll appearance. This is the bird from which the people extract the oil which theygenerally burn, but it gives a very feeble light. On special occasions wehave requests for paraffin oil, of which, fortunately, we brought a goodsupply. 

Mrs. Andrew Swain has a little son. I have been once or twice to see her. There is always some neighbour sitting with her; to-day there were three. 

Graham has been getting soil from the farmyards to spread over the fieldwhich is being put up for hay, and the wall of which he has just finishedrepairing. The oxen are doing the drawing, but it is very slow work, and Iexpect this year he will have to content himself with half the field. Ifear the flowers will not do very well because of the wind, but still ifonly a few grow it will be something to look at. I should like to tryanemones. 

Mollyhawk eggs are just in. They are large in size, of a long oval shape, and with reddish-brown markings and spots. The men say this bird neverlays more than one egg each season. 

_Sunday, October_ 7. --I got up about 6. 30, made the beds and put the roomstraight before early service. After breakfast I generally practise hymns, and John Glass, who takes the harmonium up to church, comes in early, asdo William and some of the boys, to listen to the music. Confirmationclasses begin this week. Graham intends holding them twice a week, andhopes men will attend as well as women. The Bishop told us that if aman-of-war were sent he quite hoped to come by it. 

_Tuesday, October_ 9. --John Glass has made each of us a pair of moccasins. He brought them in with much satisfaction on Saturday evening, and we atonce tried them on. They are made with rather pointed toes which do notquite suit our feet. They have to be put on damp so that they may take theshape of the foot; and when they get very hard, as they do in summer, haveto be soaked in water. They soon wear out, generally not lasting longerthan three weeks, as the ground is so rocky. 

Repetto is writing letters to be corrected by Graham, and really writesthem very well for one entirely self-taught. He and his wife are mostgenerous people and are always sending us small presents. I shall havesome quaint mats and little bags of skin made by the people to bring home. 

The Hagans have lost the grey cow they watched over with such care. Theystarted slinging it too late, with the result that it got so bruised bythe constant falls it could not recover from them. Now they have only oneleft, and the Repettos also have only one. The people depend much on theirmilk. 

An east wind has been blowing the last few days which tries the trees andplants. The little peach-tree against the house is almost done for. Iprotect the small seedlings in the garden by putting tins round and overthem. Plants are almost twisted out of their sockets. 

_Thursday, October_ 11. --Yesterday Graham began the Confirmation Classes. Most of the elders attended--nine men and fifteen women. 

John Glass came in to-day to have his hand treated. It was much swollenthrough, as he thinks, the bite of an insect. He had left it nearly twodays uncared for. 

_Monday, October_ l5. --On Sunday morning just before service Mrs. BobGreen came in for a remedy for her husband's foot which was badly swollen, and from her account it also seemed to have been bitten by an insect. Iwent across and found she had bathed it in hot water. We bathed it again, adding soda. To-day it was very much better and our services not required. Their little girl was christened yesterday Annie Gertrude Ellen. 

Graham rose this morning about four o'clock to make an expedition up thehill with William, Ben and several women. They got to the point where theywould have to climb, but rain coming on it was thought wiser to go nofurther. Instead, they descended to the shore to pick up firewood. 

This afternoon was rather harassing. Ellen was at school, and I had justbegun baking when Mrs. Martha Green appeared. She brought a beautiful pairof stockings knitted by herself with great care, and also a present ofeggs. She stayed nearly two hours. I called Graham to my aid, for I couldnot leave the bread. He took her round the garden, and by the time shecame back I was able to get some tea made. While we were having it Rebekahcame with a request for some sugar for an ailing child. A little later agift of eggs was brought, with a further request for sugar for a baby. Thepeople nearly always bring something when they come to ask for anything. It is a busy life here; some days there seems no quiet, it is knock, knockall day. I am beginning to feel the solace of gardening. 

_Saturday, October_ 20. --On Thursday a meeting was held on the question ofa schooner coming to buy up cattle and sheep. Much had to be talked over. Every one has given the number of cattle and sheep he or she will sell. The question is whether there are enough to make it worth while for aschooner to call. They hope to have also for sale about £60 worth ofpotatoes and some wool. It is difficult to tell what the cost of aschooner will be. 

_Monday, October_ 22. --Almost every day one or another comes for medicineor for medical treatment. To-day John Glass came in with a badly cut hand. The simple remedies we brought have been a great boon. 

_Wednesday, October_ 24. --It is little Joe Repetto's birthday. He hasbrought a pair of socks for Graham, a pair of horns for Ellen with one ofhis curls tied on to them, and a pair of horns for myself. The horns arethose of bullocks, and have been beautifully polished and mounted by hisfather. I had made a little white pinafore for Joe. He is two years oldand has been coming to school for the last week or so, and behavesadmirably. He sometimes falls asleep, and I have to take him on my lap asI teach. 

We are daily hoping a ship will be coming this way. Betty Cotton says shenever remembers such a time of scarcity, --no potatoes, no milk, and noflour. There is a little milk now, and the people are most kind in sendingus some even when it is not their week for serving us. 

Poor Rebekah has lost the cow she took so much trouble over. A fatalswelling of the throat set in. I saw a poor cow (with its calf) thisafternoon in its eagerness to get at some food which was being brought it, fall over, it was so weak. 

Last night Repetto, Mrs. Hagan and Rebekah were here. We tried to makethem see the importance of growing corn, which we think could be done ifit were shielded by flax; and also of starting enclosures near theirhouses for growing trees; but they are difficult to move and have not thesame enterprise as the former generation. We have not been able to get anymore dressing for the field. That part which has had it looks so differentfrom the rest. 

CHAPTER XIV

_Monday, October_ 29. --On Saturday night there was such a gale from thenorth-west, and the sea was higher than it was all the winter, washingright up to the cliffs. We found sad destruction in the garden on Sundaymorning, the flowers and vegetables being shrivelled up as if there hadbeen a severe frost, even the grass and docks looked black; the peas whichwere in a most flourishing condition are ruined. Almost the only flowersthat have not succumbed are those that were sheltered. Next year I shalltry walled divisions on the flower-beds. Happily, the wind was not sosevere at the potato patches, and they have been damaged but little. 

Mrs. Lavarello is suffering from a bruised leg caused by a fall on therocks when fishing. We urged upon her the need of resting it, but shethought she could not because of her work. It is now so painful she isobliged to keep it up almost entirely. I shall try to see her each day. This afternoon Graham and I went for a long walk along the shore. Raincoming on we tried to scale the cliff, but had to come down and return bythe shore, the wind and rain beating in our faces. By the time we got homewe were wet through, but felt all the better for the outing. 

_Tuesday, October_ 30. --A very wet day. No Women's Meeting. 

_Wednesday, October_ 3l. --We had been saying it looked as if the monthwere going out without our seeing a ship, when to-day one appeared justafter school. Some of the men were out in a boat fishing, but weresignalled to by a fire being lit. They got back quickly, and the boatsstarted off by about two o'clock. It was bitterly cold and the sea rough. Another ship was seen in the afternoon. 

_Thursday, November_ 1. --The men returned last night. The ship was aFrench one bound for Adelaide. They were not able to get any flour, butgot ship biscuits, a good quantity of rice, which, however, has weevils init, and a little coffee. Mrs. Repetto came in this evening with some ofthe biscuits. I said I could not take them, but she would not hear of"no. "

To-day Glass and Tom Rogers have been putting up some small gates, made bythe latter, at the two entrances of the pathway leading to the front ofthe house. They had to build up a part of one entrance with large squarestones; wood is scarce so the gates have to be small. With them we feelmuch more private. Henry has given us some green paint of quite a niceshade for the outside window-frames to match the green gates. The house isbeginning to have quite a respectable appearance. 

I fear Mrs. Lavarello will be laid up some time with her leg. CharlotteSwain bathes it three times a day. Mrs. Lavarello is a sister of JohnGlass. She has been very kind to us in constantly sending fish and eggs. 

We had a second gale the other day which blighted the potatoes, in fact, quite cut them down. But the men say that with the rain which has fallensince they will come on again. The flowers are already reviving. 

[Illustration: EARLY MORNING FROM THE WEST, SHOWING SNOW IN CREVASSE, NEARPEAK]

Fourteen cattle died last week due to the wet and cold, making the numberof deaths three hundred and seventy. 

_Thursday, November_ 8. --We were knocked up yesterday morning soon afterfive by Repetto, who came to tell us that a steamer was in sight and thatthey were going off to it immediately. In about ten minutes he was hereagain for the letters. I was in my dressing-gown finishing a letter toA----. Graham was finishing another to his sister and had to run down tothe boat with it. He was just in time, but had to wade into the water tohand it in. The steamer had borne down upon the settlement very rapidly. Graham so regretted he hadn't gone when he saw how close it had come in. We felt we had perhaps lost an opportunity of a passage to the Cape wemight not get again, but really there was not time to dress and be off. Graham worked off his disappointment by polishing away at the bootsand shoes. The men were soon back. The captain said he could only waithalf-an-hour, but stayed an hour. He let them have 300 lbs. Of flour andsome other goods. Repetto was able to get some of the things we asked himto try for, namely, bacon, lemons, a ten-pound tin of butter and someapple-rings. The captain sent his kind regards and sent me a specialoffering of tea and sugar. We have given the tea to the people as they hadnone. The steamer was bound for Durban, and the captain, who was here theyear before, said he hoped to return in a month, and if he did would bringmore flour for the people. The islanders had to pay in cash. A passengeron board presented them with a sovereign to buy food. The captain wouldnot let us pay for anything. Two and a half years later when we arrivedhome in England we heard of another kind deed of the captain. He hadkindly taken charge of the letters to post at Durban, and noticingone bearing our name most kindly sent to the address copies of somephotographs which he had that morning taken of the island. The fine viewfacing this page is one of them. We have been scanning the papers and haveobtained a considerable amount of information from them. The steamerhailed from a Cumberland port, and in a Maryport paper was a speech ofF----'s at Workington in support of the Liberal candidate. In the samepaper we read with regret of the death of Sir Wilfrid Lawson. In anotherwas an account of the fires on the Malvern Hills, and in a third a longarticle on the "Welcome. " [Footnote: A Restaurant and Home for girls, Jewin Street, London. ] The sugar was done up in a Birmingham paper fromwhich, however, we did not extract much beyond the attempt on the RussianPremier's life. We feel we have come quite in touch with the world again. 

On Monday there is to be another meeting about the trading schooner, butwe doubt if much will come of it. It appears from a book Repetto has thatthe Cape duty on imported animals is rather high, and the men do not seeminclined to come down in their prices. We are seriously contemplating thefuture as regards food. We have been taking stock and find our stores aregetting very low. If we knew definitely a gun-boat was coming and wouldbring our stores it would be all right, but alas we do not. One cannot getvery much from passing ships, so Graham is rather anxious we should go toCape Town to get a supply of food, if for nothing else. I expect it willend in our going if a chance occurs. 

Ellen is busy making a pale blue nun's-veiling blouse for Emma Hagan. Youwould hardly have thought there would have been such vanities here. Thematerial was sent by some relations at the Cape. Every one tries to have anew garment for Christmas Day, and some of the material which was broughtby the _Surrey_ is being kept for this purpose. I have been making apinafore out of a faded muslin blind for Sophy Rogers who is very short ofclothes; after being ironed it looks very nice and has given greatpleasure. 

_Friday, November_ 9. --The strawberries are just beginning to ripen; theyare very small and more like wild ones. I have put zinnia seeds straightinto the ground, and shielded with tins they are coming up quite strongly. The stocks have borne the wind better than any other flower. Marvel ofPeru is coming up strongly too. 

_Monday, November_ l2. --We have had such a warm day, which makes us feelsummer is coming. 

Yesterday in the midst of morning service one man after another went out, and shortly I saw two little boats on the sea. A whaler had appeared andall the men had gone out to her. We were sorry, for it meant trading on aSunday, and the people were not now short of food; but one must not be toohard upon them. The whaler is from America and will probably be here fortwo or three days. The islanders like a whaler better than any othervessel, with the exception of a man-of-war, as it brings material as wellas food to trade with, and is glad of fresh meat and potatoes in exchange. I can see the ship so clearly, the sun lighting up its white sails. 

The meeting about the schooner took place this afternoon. One or two atthe last meeting got rather heated, but all were very quiet to-day. Theywere not ready, however, to lower their prices and so nothing was done. But, later, Henry Green and Repetto came in to say they had been round, and the men had arranged to sell at a lower price so as to make itpossible for a schooner to come. 

The rats are beginning to appear again. Last night we had a constanttapping overhead; and this morning to her dismay Ellen found our breakfasthad been eaten up by them. The bacon had been placed on the window-silloutside, a dish over it, and a heavy stone on the top. It was not a greatloss as it was hardly eatable. The milk-jug was also knocked over and theprecious milk spilt. We hope we shall be able to get some extra food fromthe whaler; and some cocks and hens!

_Tuesday, November_ l3. --Yesterday shortly after we left morning schoolMrs. Bob Green rushed in to tell us William had seen a seal on the beach, and that her husband had killed it, but that she had asked him not to skinit till we had seen it. We went to look and saw a small party on therocks. Two seals had been secured, which was quite a find as a good pricecan be had for the skins. Seals rarely come in here now, but a dozen or somay be caught at Inaccessible. 

We are having a whole holiday to-day owing to the presence of the whaler. The men did not board her yesterday as there was a fog, and when itcleared off and she came in it was too late for them to go out. They wentoff this morning. Every one is in the greatest excitement. Dressed intheir best all went down to the beach to meet Betty and Martha's nephew, Joe Beetham, who was coming on shore from the whaler. He was first broughtin here. Graham had met him at Cape Town; since then he has been toAmerica, where his home is. He has brought a large box of things for BettyCotton from her relatives there, which has quite cheered her up. I thinkshe is the only one on the island who does not care about living here. Theislanders have gone off again to the ship to make purchases. Beetham toldus the whaler is calling at Mauritius, so Graham has written a line to theBishop as he might like to hear how we are getting on. 

I have started packing, for we must be ready to be off at any instant;even at five o'clock in the morning!

_Sunday, November_ l8. --The men did not get back from the whaler tillnearly midnight. The captain seemed a somewhat difficult man to deal withand undoubtedly got the best of the bargaining. His wife was on board, andmost kindly sent us a parcel of jams and soap. 

Mrs. Sam Swain, senior, has a little girl, born last Friday. Her eldestgirl Charlotte is twenty-two. This birth makes the populationseventy-eight. 

To-day a ship was to be seen in the far distance, it has been hangingabout; four of the men have gone out to it. 

Graham spoke this morning to the people in church about Sunday trading. Hesaid he saw no harm in going out to a ship on a Sunday, but that theyought not to trade on that day unless they were in real need. Mr. Dodgsonwas very strong on this point. 

We are ready packed so far as we can be when our boxes are ourchests-of-drawers. I think Ellen will manage all right while we are away. She likes the people, and if she feels lonely can have one of the childrento stay with her. She will teach a little. 

We have been thinking a good deal the last day or two of this time lastyear when we were starting forth. It is a year to-day since we leftSouthampton. 

_Tuesday, November_ 20. --On Monday morning four of the men put out to aship going east, but she had got too far for them to reach her, a squalldriving her further out. It is curious to think that any day we may be onour way to the Cape, but perhaps we shall not get there at all. 

A meeting was held last Thursday to consider the quantity of food-stuff aschooner should bring in exchange. It will be a great boon to the peopleif we can get one to come. We think they would do much better if theywould go in more for sheep-breeding and keep fewer cattle. The returnwould be much quicker; and the shipping of them much easier; and as theweather here is uncertain the loading is an important matter. The sheepare small, but the mutton is good. I do not think this place is suited forcattle; it is too exposed; and the people lay themselves out so little toprovide either shelter or food for them. It is quite nice to see a fewcattle again grazing on the settlement which has been so destitute ofthem. 

Potatoes are now coming in, but the people do not like to begin eatingthem too soon. 

_Wednesday, November_ 21. --Graham has had an afternoon of it. First therewas a Confirmation Class, then another meeting about the schooner. Thefood-list had to be revised and a list made of the requirements of eachfamily. Arrangements were also made as to our getting off from here. If asteamer is sighted we are both to go at once; if a sailing vessel, whichwill be much less likely to be going to South Africa, Graham will go offwith the men in the first boat. A second boat will await the signal fromthe ship as to whether or no we can be taken. If we can I shall at onceembark in it with the rest of the men. Lots were drawn as to who should goin the first boat. Of course, they like to be in the first as they thenhave a greater chance of bargains. 

In order to prevent delay in going out to a ship there is an excellentsystem by which each family in turn has to provide the oxen, sheep andgeese needed for the public trading. The stuff in exchange for these isdivided round equally. The rule is for this public trading to be donefirst. After it is over any who like can do private trading. They offerfor barter all sorts of things, sometimes even the moccasins which theyare actually wearing. William got a coat for his pair the other day; onanother occasion, boy-like, he got a big pair of boots which he is mostproud of, but which are of very little use to him. The height of ambitionis to own a pair of boots, though the feet look much tidier in moccasins. His grandmother has just asked me to buy her a pair at the Cape. 

Graham has been writing a letter to the Bishop telling of our contemplatedvisit to the Cape. He will leave a copy of it here on the possible chanceof the Bishop arriving when we are away. If he should arrive there arevarious things of which he may wish to have accurate information. 

To do the rats justice let me here record it is now thought that a cat wasthe culprit on the occasion of the breakfast having disappeared. 

CHAPTER XV

_Thursday, November_ 22. --To-day when I was hanging the bird-cage on thewall of the house, Jack somehow squeezed himself through the wires andflew to the flax on the edge of the garden. I caught him, but he slippedthrough my fingers and flew on to the common and then back into thegarden, again alighting on a flax-leaf. He is so tame he allowed me to goup to him, and I caught him once more quite easily. 

I have started baking bread in an iron pot after the method of the people. 

_Thursday, November_ 29. --Should we go to the Cape it has been arrangedfor the elder girls to carry on the school. They are rather pleased at theidea. To get their hand in, Graham let them take it yesterday and againto-day. They are capable of taking it for a limited time. 

The men and boys have been playing cricket lately, the latter being verykeen upon it. 

High winds have again somewhat damaged the plants. 

_Friday, November_ 30, _St. Andrew's Day_. --It being the day ofIntercession for Missions we had service at five o'clock. Sixty-one peoplewere present, which was good for a week-day. Earlier in the afternoon thesewing-class met. When possible we have it out of doors. We are reading_Teddy's Button_, which the children quite enjoy. They enter into readingaloud so much more than they did. 

_Monday, December 3_. --Yesterday afternoon Sam Swain's baby was christenedand named Rachel Caroline. The baptism was earlier than it would have beenbecause the parents were anxious she should be baptized before we leavefor the Cape. The church was full. Graham has asked Repetto to read theservice on Sunday while we are away. Ellen will play the hymns. 

This evening a vessel was sighted. As the men think it is a whaler theyare not going out to it till to-morrow. 

_Wednesday, December_ 5. --The vessel was a whaler, and the men went off atbreakfast-time next morning and were away all day. For three sheep andeight geese they only got a barrel of flour and some molasses. The captainevidently knew how to drive a bargain; it is rather too bad. 

The flower garden is beginning to look quite bright. The sweet peas willsoon be in flower, the stocks, too, are showing buds. This week we expectto pick a dish of peas, though the plants look very poor after the blightthey had. 

There has been a rearrangement of the classes in school and some of theinfants have gone up. The elder girls now help a little in the teaching. This morning I had to speak to one of them. She had been taking theinfants in reading, and sat with cane in hand administering justice rightand left, to which her scholars paid but little heed. 

_Thursday, December_ 6. --Yesterday, it being the Advent season, there wasa short service after the confirmation class. The people sing "Lo, Hecomes with clouds descending" to the tune in the _Hymnal Companion_ soheartily. Coming out from the service we found the men gazing intentlytowards the west. They saw what they said was a whaler; we could just seesomething. It seems to be coming in, so they will not go out to it tillto-morrow. Whalers are no good as regards taking letters, because it maybe so long before they make a port. 

_Friday, December_ 7. --The whaler came in on Thursday and the men startedout to meet her, but finding that she was sending a boat ashore, returned. In the boat was the harpooner, a brother of Sam Swain, senior. Thebrothers had not met for twenty-four years. He and the boat's crew spentpart of the day here. It has been a great thing for the people to have hadthese three whalers as they have been able to get provisions and material. I must say our friends are a most liberal people. To-day just after dinnerHenry Green brought us a bag of flour from _All Hands_. Graham did notwant to take it, and being pressed, offered to pay for it, but Henry wouldnot hear of that, and after some argument said with decision he would nottake it back and plumped it down on the sofa. They think now there will bea very good potato crop both in quality and quantity, so we cannot want. The potatoes last year were small owing to the blight. 

_Saturday, December_ 8, --The Henry Greens have a child nearly two yearsold that can neither walk nor talk, and is very fat. They said theythought his back was weak, so I suggested they should bathe it withsea-water twice a day. For some time they did not try this, but last weekbegan it, and after two or three days to their surprise, and to mine whenI was told of it, he stood up. The mother is most thankful and only wishesshe had begun it before. 

_Friday, December_ l4. --There was great excitement yesterday afternoon. Word was brought in that there had been a shipwreck and that two boatswere making for the island. We all ran out expecting to see a shipwreckedcrew, but no boats were to be seen. We made then for Hottentot Point, andthere we could see a ship in the distance. One of out boats had alreadystarted, but returned before it had gone far. Later the same enterprisingcrew, Tom Rogers, Henry Green, and young Sam Swain, set forth again withthings for barter. We only knew at the last minute they were going. Ellenand I ran to the top of the cliff with our letter, but the boat hadstarted. We heard afterwards they would have come back had they known wehad letters. It is more than a month since we dispatched our last batch. The boat did not return till this morning. It got back to the belt ofseaweed before daylight, and making fast to it waited for the dawn. Thecrew said the captain, a Scotchman, was so kind and let them have anythingthey wanted. He had his wife and little boy on board; she had been ill. The ship was becalmed, and we hoped the other islanders would go out toher, but they didn't seem inclined to do so. Later in the afternoon weheard to our surprise that they were going. We were so glad because of theletters. The captain sent us a whole heap of magazines and papers. We sentsome young lettuces, and I only regretted we had not some flowers to sendto his wife. The men did not return till the early hours of the morning. The captain sent us a bottle of lime-juice and would not take any paymentfor the groceries Repetto asked for. We feel much the invariable kindnessof all the captains. The first boat's crew enjoyed themselves immensely onboard. The captain played and sang to them. To add to his kindness he sentus a letter containing all the latest news; the first item of which was"King Teddy going strong. "

Repetto has just been in to bring some white paint and oil he got for usfrom the ship. We want it for the house, which certainly has not seenfresh paint for many a year. 

_Saturday, December_ 15. --A ship was sighted to-day in the far distance. 

_Sunday, December_ 16. --Rebekah is most good in bringing us bunches ofpink roses. We have also on the table a bouquet of field-daisies which wewere so pleased to find growing here. There are scarcely any wild flowers, but there is a yellow one which much resembles a hollyhock. The peoplethink it very poisonous and never picked it. There is also a small plantwhich grows abundantly near this house and which they call a sunflower. Ithas a leaf resembling that of the woodsorrel, and a pink flower the shapeof a primrose, but with smaller petals. The boys are very fond of adorningtheir caps on Sunday with a bunch of pink roses, which are not exactlybecoming to their brown complexions. 

_Monday, December_ 17. --In heavy rain and a misty sea a ship passed closeby. 

_Thursday, December_ 20. --To-day Rebekah ran in in great distress: "Herbrother Ben had had a fit and had not yet come to, would we go to him?"We went off at once. When we got there he was still unconscious and waslying on the couch. The men were doing all they could for him. There wasnot much that could be done beyond loosening his collar. After a time hewent to sleep. Every one kept flocking in, even the children. I told themhe ought to be kept quiet, and gradually they went until Ellen, I, andBill Green were the only ones left. Presently he awoke and insisted upongetting up, and seeing he was fairly himself we left. Afterwards he hadtwo more fits, one of them on the shore where he had insisted upon going;fortunately Bill Green had followed him there. Two of the men will sit upwith him through the night. The people are very kind to one another insickness. 

The keeping of meat is a great difficulty in the summer. We have a supplyfor the week and it will not keep beyond a day or two. We asked to have ittwice a week, but that could not be arranged. We mean to try salting aportion. Our meat larder is the passage as being the most airy place. 

_Sunday, December 23_. --Ben is all right again. It is thought he overdidhimself driving sheep. He had no dog with him and did a good deal ofshouting and running. He is the man who has deformed arms. Happily he isof a cheerful disposition and is to be heard constantly whistling tunes. The only work he can do is to drive the oxen and sheep. 

It is difficult to feel we are so near Christmas since we have so fewpreparations to make for it. But it is not so with the people. They havebeen preparing for it for months. We have had constant requests for "blue"for getting up white shirts, petticoats and children's clothes. Preparations are also now going on in prospect of a visit from aman-of-war; houses are being whitewashed, painted, and scrubbed. The Repettos finished theirs some time ago, and the large sitting-room isnot allowed to be used, that it may be kept quite clean for the "greatevent, " should it come off. The minds of the inhabitants are centred onthe arrival of a warship; it is the great event in their lives, and theycannot yet believe one is not coming. 

_Christmas Eve_. --This has been a busy day, almost as busy at it is athome, there has been so much coming and going. Many have brought offeringsof fish and fruit-pies, and Rebekah as a birthday offering a nicely bakedcake. I had a blouse ready for her. She stayed to supper. We have beenable to give a little tea and sugar all round. I patched up an old coatfor William, and as a last thing watered the garden. The nasturtiums, which I hope will run up the wall of the house, are just beginning tobloom. The sitting-room looks quite gay with daisies, grasses and pinkroses. 

CHAPTER XVI

_Christmas Day_. --We have had three services, and all have been wellattended. To our surprise we found the church decorated. It was donedelightfully simple; little bunches of geraniums, roses and green beinghung from the beams and the walls. Nearly all were present in the morning, the women having got up early to prepare their dinners. Rebekah said shewas up at 4. 30. Our dinner was provided for us, the Greens sending stuffedsucking-pig and others crowberry open tarts. Alas! we had no plum-pudding. The rain came down in torrents in the afternoon, and we began service withhardly any one present; but the rain abating the church gradually filled. The singing was not good; I drew my conclusions. 

This evening there has been dancing at the Hagans'. Graham has beenin and is surprised how well the people dance. The men danced in theirshirt-sleeves. Husbands and wives first led off, then danced with otherpartners. The refreshment was cold water. 

_Thursday, December_ 27. --Yesterday directly after breakfast Repetto cameto paint the sitting-room. The painting took all day, but the room isquite transformed. The south wall which was green from damp has beenwhitewashed, and now it is of an olive-green shade and looks quiteartistic in contrast with the white paint, but I am afraid that hue willnot long remain. 

We are having a ten days' holiday. It rains almost every day, andeverything is reeking with damp. The people devote themselves tofestivities at this season, playing cricket in the morning and dancing inthe afternoon and evening. On Boxing Day the first hour of the afternoonwas given up to the children, who love dancing. About an hour later theelders began. I dressed in my best array and went to look on. They danceexceedingly well, round and backwards and forwards. I was struck by thepolite manners of the men, who go up to the partner they wish to dancewith, bow to her and offer their arm. The partner takes it most solemnly, waits about half a minute before she accepts, apparently quite unconsciousof his presence, during which time his arm is dropped as he stands mutebefore her; then she quietly rises and the dance begins. The behaviour ofthe girls is quiet and natural with a becoming self-reserve. We were homeagain before six. I believe the dancers left soon after to get some foodat home, and then returned and went on till eleven o'clock. We looked inagain, and, seeing that the room was very poorly lighted, went back forour lamp. Some of the babies were put to bed in the adjoining room, and some were sleeping peacefully in the arms of the elders in thedancing-room. 

_Friday, December 28_. --We are having a very wet week. I have beenpainting the bedroom and kitchen window-frames. One of our little birdsdied suddenly yesterday evening: we think perhaps the paint was too muchfor it. Happily the other one seems quite cheerful without it. As there isstill a smell of paint we take his cage up to the church and hang it inthe vestry as the only place of safety we can think of. 

_New Year's Eve_. --In looking back over this past year we feel verythankful for the way in which we have been helped and guided. 

_New Year's Day, 1907. --It is the custom here on New Year's Eve for themen to assemble soon after nightfall and visit each house. Several arefantastically dressed and equipped with every available instrument--violin, drum, concertina and accordion. And on this occasion even threeold Martinis were brought into requisition and fired at frequent intervalsthroughout the night. Refreshment is given at each house, so we had a goodbrew of tea and biscuits ready for distribution at the first sound of thedrum. Usually the men enter the house, but as it would have beenimpossible to get them all into ours, they grouped themselves round theback door. There they first sang and danced to the accompaniment of theviolin and accordion, made passes with mock swords and let off guns; thensat on the stones and enjoyed their tea. I was awakened two or three timesin the night by the guns. It was daylight before they finished. 

No less than four dinners were sent us today, three plates of stuffedmutton and one of sucking-pig. Our thyme and parsley had been much soughtafter for the stuffing. 

We had service this morning at nine o'clock, at which about forty werepresent. One of the three hymns was the old favourite--

"O God, our help in ages past, Our hope for years to come. "

All the afternoon Graham was on the roof of the house mending a hole whichwas big enough to thrust his hand through. I watched him staggering up theladder with a heavy roll of turf roped on to his back. When next I saw himhe was sprawling on the ridge, his legs only visible. He nailed a piece oftin over the hole, cemented it, and put the turf over it. The cement ismade of the ashes of the wood fire mixed with water; it is very durable, and stands heat and wet. Repetto has been painting the church. His wifecame in to pay us a visit, a rather rare thing. She goes her own way. Theother women live a good deal in each other's houses, but she does notbelieve in this, thinking there is plenty to be done at home. Her strongcharacter comes out in dealing with her children. She is a very strictdisciplinarian. If they do not do what she tells them, they get a good"hammering. " She was very pleased with what Graham said in church onSunday to the children about promptness in obeying. 

_Wednesday, January 2_. --To-day we thought of going to the potato patches, but the men were playing cricket, and sent to ask Graham to join them, which he did. Afterwards he had his first bathe with them. Theirbathing-place is close to the waterfall. It is not possible to go out farowing to sharks. 

_Thursday, January 3_. --Graham and I started off this afternoon for thepotato patches, as the people were anxious that we should see the plantsin flower. It was not quite such an exertion as we expected. This time ofyear the plants are often covered with caterpillars, which have to bepicked off. If the people would burn the old plants and the weeds eachseason this pest would be greatly diminished. Unfortunately there are nobirds to prey upon the insects. 

_Monday, January 7_. --The next day we went up what is called "BugsbyHole, " a steep mountain slope. It took us a long time to climb, for we didit bit by bit, constantly sitting down. At last we came to what one mightperhaps call a pass (it was but a gap) over a narrow-backed ridge. Thiswas the Goat Ridge which Graham had climbed from the other side on GoodFriday. We had rather a difficult rock to climb up, but with assistance Imanaged it. Rob got frightened, and had many leaps before he got up. Fromthis ridge such a lovely scene opened out in the evening light, loftypeaks all around, and below, grassy, fern-covered ravines. It made onealmost giddy to look down. The descent appeared appalling, but the fernswere long, and we could get a good foothold in them. As we neared thebottom we picked up a quantity of wood. Some of it rolled into a gulch, and in going after it Graham got "blocked" and had to let himself slide, with the result that he rather hurt his leg. We got home just before dusk, had a supper of bread and milk and coffee, and retired to bed as soon as Ihad prepared the sponge for baking. 

[Illustration: BUGSBY HOLE]

We have started school again after a fortnight's holiday. It is a hot, close day, about the hottest we have had; one comfort is the houses arecool. It is such a pleasure to see the cattle looking so different, reallybeginning to be in good condition. Their number having been so greatlyreduced, there is plenty of grass for them. We have abundance of milk now, but butter is a rare commodity. Some was brought us to-day, and is quite atreat. 

_Wednesday, January_ 9. --This day last year we landed at Cape Town. 

Yesterday evening we watched the yoking of some oxen which were driveninto the yard opposite. Several were being broken in for the first time, and others had not been yoked for many months. One was quite wild, jumpingover the wall into the tussock-garden. The two oxen, or steers, to beyoked together are driven into a corner, and the owner of them warilyapproaches and first puts on the neck of one the wooden collar. Havingdone this, he waits a minute or two, and then a man behind hands him theheavy cross-beam, one end of which has to be made fast to the collar. Thisbeing done, he goes through the same process with the other ox. The affairis no easy one, for any minute the ox may bolt, perhaps with the yokedangling down over its forelegs. When they are at last ready, their headsare turned towards the entrance, for which they generally make a dash toget out on to the common. Now comes a race. The owner has hold of one ofthe horns and hangs on, running at topmost speed, till the oxen are out ofbreath and go more soberly. Some of the animals take the yoking veryquietly. They are left yoked for several days; it seems rather hard uponthem, but, of course, they have to be broken in. 

_Friday, January_ 11. --We are going to keep fowls. I intended to buy some, and spoke to one or two people, but they quite scorned the idea ofselling--they would give them. About half-a-dozen have already beenpromised. Tom Rogers started on the fowl-house to-day. It is to be awooden one made out of our packing-cases and thatched with tussock. 

_Wednesday, January_ 16. --Repetto has been here since Saturday putting upa three-cornered cupboard in the sitting-room. We need it to keep dailystores in. We tried keeping them in the loft, but to run up a ladder everytime you want tea, sugar or biscuits is rather tiresome, and the kitchenis too damp for stores. 

We have been rearranging the sitting-room. The Indian rugs have come inmost usefully; one does as a tablecloth, and the other as a cover forboxes, making a table in the part of the sitting-room we have screenedoff. They give such a cheerful look to the room. Two or three of the younggirls come in every evening of their own accord to help Ellen to wash up. The boys often help in the garden. Ned and little Charlie were helpingthis evening to shake the earth out of sods of grass. They were so comicalover it, tumbling down and bursting into such merry peals of laughter. Itreminded me of scenes in _Uncle Tom's Cabin_. 

_Monday, January_ 2l. --We are having such peaceful days, hardly any wind, and hours of sunshine. 

The fowl-house is finished, and this morning I had several gifts of hensto put into it. While we were at breakfast one small child of five, LizzieRogers, brought as her birthday gift a hen in a bag. One hen laid an eggan hour after its arrival! The eggs here are very small. I visit the housemany times a day to show it to various visitors. 

The garden is looking so bright; the zinnias have done splendidly, andsome are over two feet high. Our vegetable garden now produces cabbages, turnips, and a few peas. Carrots are coming on, and the tomato plants arein blossom and look most flourishing. The ground is quite warm six orseven inches down, and is more like a hot-bed. 

_Wednesday, January_ 23. --The man-of-war is daily expected; the horizon isscanned from early dawn to twilight; but after this week the people saythey will have doubts about its coming. For the most part they are withouttea and coffee, and are glad of our tea-leaves. 

_Friday, January_ 25. --We opened our last flour tin today; we hope to ekeout the flour for a month by using only half-a-pound a day and mixing withit a liberal proportion of potatoes. 

Yesterday I had my first bathe. We went to a place amongst the rocks wherethe sea runs in and deep enough for swimming. Graham has begun bathingwith the boys after school. The beautiful calm weather has gone and thewind come back again. 

_Wednesday, January_ 30. --Charlotte Swain came in to tell us there was ashark on the shore and to ask if we would like to go and see it; so wewent down. It was a small one, only six feet long. The skin is very rough, like emery paper, and is used by the people for polishing horns. The fleshis remarkably white and looks as though it would be good to eat. The liverwhen boiled down makes very clear oil for burning in their lamps. 

This evening Rebekah brought us a well-baked loaf. We were touched bythis, for flour is scarce now. She said they could do on potatoes betterthan we could, though we have not come to that yet. The men have beenfishing and we have more fish than we can possibly eat. 

There are other occupants than fowls of the fowl-house. Four big pigs findit a most comfortable place to retire into. It doesn't matter how oftenthey are driven out. Whenever a storm comes on in they go again, and thenthey have the best of us. 

_Saturday, February_ 2. --This morning, though it was wet, such was ourenergy we went off for a bathe before breakfast, and found it mostrefreshing. 

The Glasses have a little son, and now the population, includingourselves, is seventy-nine. 

Late this afternoon there was a cry of "Sail, ho!" and on going out tolook we saw a ship opposite the settlement. It was just a chance whetherthe men would be able to reach her. They had no time to catch any sheep, but took what they could lay hands on. As we sat on the cliff just as theywere starting, Mr. Bob Green suddenly jumped up crying, "Sail, ho!" and onlooking, sure enough we saw a second sail coming up. We hoped the menwould try for the two, but they decided to go for the second only. Thefirst ship stood in for a time and lowered part of her sail, and then wenton. It is dark, but the boats are not yet back. I do hope the men havebeen able to get some tea and coffee. 

_Monday, February 4_. --Late on Saturday evening we heard a distant whistlewhich we knew meant the boats were coming. We thought we would go down tosee them land, but as it was very dark and we had lent our lantern we hadto wait till we saw a light passing our way. Most of the people werecarrying brands which they waved to keep them alight, causing quite a fineeffect. On the cliff a fire was burning, and another on the shore. Lanterns were held up so that the incoming boat might have all the lightpossible. Well as the landing-place is known, it is difficult in thedarkness to steer clear of rocks and to keep the boat from filling withwater in the surf. The moment it touched the shore the women, boys, andgirls ran down and pulled frantically at the rope. It had to be hauled upa steep bank of shingle. The fire was stirred up and in its light thesecond boat made a run for the shore. It was a weird scene. The expeditionhad been almost in vain. The men had to pull nearly all the way to theship, which proved to be a Russian one, and could hardly get anything. Still, a little tea, coffee and sugar, and seventeen pounds of flourwith a little rice were better than nothing. The ship was bound for Natal, but the captain would not take any passengers. We are pleased the lettershave gone and by so direct a route. As the boats were leaving the ship thecaptain called out, "The letters are not stamped. " Repetto called back, "All you have to do is to put them in the post-box as they are. " We cannever stamp letters as there are no stamps here. And if there were stampsthey would be of no use because we never know where the letters will beposted. We sent off about sixteen letters. Repetto said he would keep hisfor the man-of-war. I rather think ours will reach England first. 

We are getting through more reading than we have for a long time. Some ofthe people, so we are told, have used their books for lighting fires, andothers have pulled them to pieces for the sake of the thread with whichthey were bound. We have found several of Miss Emily Holt's books here, and have much enjoyed reading them. 

We have many requests now from the people for vegetables and almostdaily ones for thyme and parsley. Cabbages they much like. We hope inthe future they will try to cultivate vegetables. At present they carefor none beyond cabbages, leeks, onions and pumpkins. The caterpillars domuch damage among the vegetables, and many of the young tomatoes areriddled with holes. The few ears of wheat which have come up have tinygreen caterpillars on them which eat up all the green corn. Having noinsect-eating birds here is a great loss. 

We have been having a good deal of rain and close steamy weather. Atnight we have the windows and door of our room, the passage window, andsometimes the back door all open. A chair has to be put across the door tokeep the pigs out. 

CHAPTER XVII

_Wednesday, February 6_. --Yesterday when we came back from bathing weheard that the men were going off in about an hour's time to Sandy Pointto gather apples from their orchards, so we decided to take a holiday andgo too. It was rather a scramble to get ready, and before we had even satdown to breakfast some of the men were going to the boats. We were in themidst of baking, and I had to run up to Miss Cotton to ask her if shewould kindly finish it. It had been decreed Rob was not to come, butseeing us depart was too much for him and he swam after the boat and washauled in. The men had to row the whole way, a distance of about tenmiles. The scenery was fine, the high mountain sides descendingprecipitously to the shore. On the way Tom Rogers and Sam Swain were putashore, as they wanted to drive a cow from where the former had left itsome months ago. It was rather an undertaking, for the animal was as wildas the road was rough. Sometimes she had to be driven over big boulders, and sometimes through the sea. When she got on to a sandy stretch of beachshe went so fast the men could hardly keep up with her. They had to throwa lasso over her horns the last part of the way to prevent her swimmingout to sea. But in spite of their difficulties they arrived almost as soonas we did. It was not very easy landing, and we had to be carried from theboats to the shore. The orchards were on the mountain side in a shelteredplace. It was quite a climb to get to them and once or twice we had tohave help, which Tom Rogers, who when he saw us mounting had run after us, was only too pleased to give. We passed a very fine vine; the grapes werenot yet ripe, probably the rats will have most of them. The grass was longand rather wet. Soon the sun came out and it became very hot. For a timewe helped Tom to gather his apples, but it was tiring work, so Ellen and Ifound a sheltered nook and rested. Afterwards Graham and I went and satnear the edge of the cliff. Here a pair of mollyhawks came and perchedwithin a few feet of us, and our presence did not seem at all to disturbthem. They are exceedingly handsome birds, are for the most part white, and have a black bill with a bright yellow stripe down the centre of it. They have most graceful movements; and this pair bowed and clicked theirbeaks together and made love to each other in the most charming way. Before long it was time to descend. Tom again showed us the way, and thenwent back for his bags of apples, which he let down the cliff by a rope. The other men too were getting theirs down, some carrying them on theirbacks. There was such a collection of sacks by the time they were alldown. The apples are not a large kind, and are gathered before they areripe. But it is a great boon to the people to have them, and the childrenmunch them all day long, eating little else. Tea was brewed on the beach, but as only a small saucepan had been brought there was not a veryplentiful supply. Coming back there was only a little wind, and wetravelled but slowly. We were very glad to land, for we were feelingrather sinking for want of food. To-day being the birthday of Mrs. Hagan's one-year-old son she sent us for supper a cooked fowl which wasmost acceptable. Our three little helpers, Mary and Susan Repetto andSophy Rogers, came up with us from the shore and offered to carry ourwraps, and when we got in set to and washed up the breakfast things. Theylove to help, and come in two and three times a day now. 

_Saturday, February_ 9. --It is difficult to keep count of dates here, theweeks pass so quickly. It is a wet afternoon. I have been chopping upsuet, Graham repairing boots. 

The day before yesterday the men with one or two women and some childrenwent by boat to the rookery to fetch home three heifers. With somedifficulty they managed to catch them, tied their legs together, andbrought them home in the boats. They also brought back more apples and agood deal of driftwood. 

Yesterday some of the men went out in a boat to shoot albatrosses, andshot seven. These birds are so large that it is as much as a woman can doto bring up one from the shore slung on her back. Once they nested on theisland, but now nests are not to be found nearer than Inaccessible. 

I have been making fresh efforts to teach Edith Swain her letters. She hasbeen months at the first four and does not know them yet, but has pickedup one or two others. I have tried a new way of teaching with betterresult. I have taught her, for example, "s" quite easily by telling her itis like the noise the goose makes; it is called the goose letter by thechildren. In this way we joke over the letters, and it seems to implantthem in her mind. She has now learnt them nearly all. 

_Monday, February_ 11. --During Lent we are to have daily service at nineo'clock, and on Fridays one also at five o'clock with instruction on theHoly Communion. 

_Friday, February 15_. --The daily services so far are being very wellattended, a few men being generally present. We always have well-knownhymns, and the service lasts just under the half-hour. 

I find the fowls a great interest. But they often lay away in the tussockwhere it is almost a hopeless task to find the eggs. If I see a henlooking about for a nest whenever I can I catch it and shut it up, andusually with a successful result. 

The other day Ben the cripple had been missing for several hours. It wasfeared he had gone off up the mountain by himself and been taken with afit. Although it was pouring with rain the men went off in search of himto Red Hole which lies westward, but not finding him there retraced theirsteps and went in the opposite direction as far as Pig's Bite, but seeingno traces of his footsteps on the sand they turned back, when they wereencountered by Ben himself, who had run after them to let them know he wasall right. It seems he had gone to the potato hut and had fallen asleepthere, and that his sister not knowing he was there had fastened him in. The first intimation of his whereabouts was conveyed by cries of "Becky, Becky, let me out. "

Our things still remain packed, but we hardly think now we shall get offto the Cape. We have enough tea to last us this year, and enough coffee, sugar, biscuits, rice and jam for some time yet, as well as oil and soap. We got a good deal of rice from one of the ships, but bread we hadvirtually to do without. 

The Repettos' youngest child is such a little pet, and so well trained. Ibrought him in yesterday when we were having afternoon tea. He solemnlyclambered on to the sofa and sat there till I offered him a spoonful oftea and a biscuit, which he descended to receive, and then went back tohis place. He came out into the garden afterwards and sat by my sidewithout moving while I made a weak attempt at sketching the house. He isfair, has auburn curls, and is the darling of his mother's heart. 

_Monday, February_ l8. --This morning we had such a delightful bathe. Thesea was rough and broke into our little cove, which was quite deep at oneend. There was such a lovely sunrise, the sky and sea lit up by it. Weoften go down to bathe while it is still dusk. Rob was so amusing; hewould not come near the water, but sat on the rock as if on guard; he isgenerally here, there, and everywhere. 

_Sunday, February_ 24. --John Glass's son and heir was baptized today andwas named William Gordon. The first name was after Corporal Glass, hisgreatgrandfather. We sang the beautiful baptismal hymn---

"O Father, Thou who hast created all In wisest love, we pray, Look on this babe, who at Thy gracious call Is entering on life's way;Bend o'er him in Thy tenderness, Thine image on his soul impress; O Father, hear!"

I did not know either the hymn or the tune by Sullivan until I came here. 

_Monday, February_ 25. --I have been picking tomatoes. We have to pick themgreen, as they are beginning to rot, due, I think, to this wet climate. Ihave hung some in strings on the front of the house, the rest lie on thesitting-room window-sills. 

A week or two ago a small portion of the hayfield was cut. There being nosuch thing as a scythe here, it was cut with a short hook made out of shipiron, and called a "tussock-hook. " The hay, which is deliciously sweet, was gathered in successfully. But I do not think Henry intends to cut anymore of the field. They have got into such set ways here that it goesagainst the grain to try anything new. This hay was put into a hut andnever used for feeding the cattle but for bedding for the pigs. While Ihave been writing I have heard such happy peals of laughter from thechildren who have been helping Ellen. 

_Tuesday, February 26_. --As we were out for a walk this afternoon we sawcart after cart coming home from the potato patches. They were loaded withsacks of potatoes, and generally had a woman and one or two childrenseated on the top of the sacks. The men do the digging and the women andchildren the picking up. The potatoes are turning out well on the whole. It is no joy to ride in the wagons along the rough track, which can hardlybe described as a road. The carts have solid wooden wheels and no springs. 

_Saturday, March 2_. --A cry of "Sail, ho!" What a joy! Every one isrunning hither and thither. 

CHAPTER XVIII

_Monday, March_ 4. --It is difficult to sit down and collect one's thoughtsto write. Saturday was a most eventful day. Early in the morning soonafter we had returned from bathing a ship was seen on the horizon. It wascoming from the east. This is the first time a ship has come from thatdirection since we have been here. The excitement was great. She was seento be tacking for the island. The excitement increased. We felt somethingwas in store for us, possibly a mail. In due time Graham and the islandersstarted forth; there was a breeze and the sea was decidedly rough. As wewere returning from seeing them off the women said they could see a flagon the mast-head, which meant that somebody special was on board. We atonce decided it must be the Bishop, and hurried home and buckled to, forthere was plenty to be done. We saw the boats reach the ship, and to oursurprise in about fifteen minutes they were off again. We then felt surethe ship was going to stay and was landing some one. When the boats weregetting fairly near the shore we went down. A tremendously heavy showercame on which drove us to seek shelter in a diminutive cave. The sea hadbecome rougher. We watched the boats working their way in from the east;they were being tossed and pitched about like corks and the spray wasdashing all over them. Our interest grew as they neared the shore. How wescanned them to see who was on board. As they drew near us we couldsee there was no bishop, but the people soon recognized two Tristanites, Willie Swain, son of Susan Swain, and Charlie Green, son of Lucy Green, who had been away for two or three years. They both will be welcome, asthey are needed at home to work for their widowed mothers. Then a strangerwas descried. 

The women ran down to help the moment the boat grounded, even Ellen and Ihelped for a few minutes. Every one was wet through; Graham from head tofoot, but happily he was not _hors de combat_. He introduced the strangeras Mr. Keytel, one of the owners of the vessel, who said he had comepartly on a holiday trip and partly to gauge the feasibility of starting atrade. The schooner will probably be here about a week. Mr. Keytel hadlunch with us. It has been arranged for him to have his meals with us andto sleep at the Repettos' who have a larger house. He is an interestingman with many hobbies, being interested in photography, birds, flowers, fishing, horns, and curios. Directly after lunch the letter mail wasbrought in by Repetto who was followed by others carrying bags containinga great number of parcels chiefly for the islanders. 

What a delight it was to have our letters. I had such a number it wasdifficult to know which one to open first. We must spend the next few daysalmost entirely in writing. Graham has a great many letters to answer, andhas received communications from the Imperial and Cape Governments whichmay require lengthy answers. The former Government desires him to discusswith the inhabitants the question of their leaving the island. He has alsohad a very kind letter from an official of the Agricultural Department atCape Town, who has had the management of this expedition, which isdescribed as "The Relief Expedition. " The Imperial Government has sent theislanders goods to the value of £100. These include one hundred bags offlour, groceries, and a large quantity of crockery. The stores which weordered from the Army and Navy Stores, London, and from Messrs. Cartwrightof Cape Town have arrived safely; and thus we are provided for for twoyears. We had kept a little flour for an emergency, so directly our guestcame we were able to bake a loaf. 

_7:35_. --We have been writing almost the whole day, and I feel as if I hadvery little mind left. 

On Sunday the schooner came fairly close in, but the boats did not go outto her, for which we were glad. She has been becalmed today some distanceaway, but the men decided to go off to her for the bags of flour. Theyhave now been out nearly twelve hours; it is dark, and there is no sign ofthem. Ellen and I have been round to all the houses leaving tea and sugarso that the women may have a brew to take down to them when they arrive. 

Mr. Keytel has been making inquiries about guano; but it seems from whatthe men say it will be almost impossible to get the pure article, so muchrain passes through it washing out all the goodness; also, it is in thetussock and gets mixed with sand. He does not want to trade in cattle orsheep. 

_Tuesday, March 5_. --We went down last night to meet the boats. Eachbrought twenty sacks of flour. So much flour has not been seen on theisland for many a day, if ever. It was not a really dark night, so thatlanterns were all that were necessary. Every one was helping either tohaul up the boats or carry the bags to a high and dry spot, which was noteasy work over slippery seaweed. The captain has sent ashore for us afunny little brown puppy. 

About half-past ten one of the men put his head in at the front doorsaying something about the mail at Glass's. Graham went to see what itwas, and after some time brought back to our great joy another enormousbudget of letters of later date than those first received. We sat up tillnearly one o'clock reading them, but were up by six next morning. 

This morning after service a meeting was held, at which every adult excepttwo was present, to go into the question of leaving Tristan. Graham toldthe people, according to instructions received, that if they stayed theGovernment could not promise to do anything further for them, and thattherefore they must not look for help in the future. He put the advantageof going and the disadvantage of remaining as strongly as he could. Butnotwithstanding they were unanimous in their decision to stay. One or twosaid they would rather starve here than at the Cape; and old Mary Glasssaid she would go if the Government would give her a pound a week. Mr. Keytel was there and takes much interest in every question. He isconsidering whether anything can be done as to trading in sheep, and Ihope will try to get his firm to take it up. It would be better for theislanders to sell at a very low price than to have no regularcommunication. A trade would make them independent of outside help exceptperhaps a little at first to make the schooner pay. But probably theGovernment will think it has done enough for some time to come. 

This is not the first time that an offer of removal has been made. In 1903Mr. Chamberlain, who was then Colonial Secretary, in a dispatch to theGovernor of the Cape suggested the removal of the inhabitants to the Cape, and that the island be annexed to the Cape Colony. In accordance with thissuggestion in January, 1904, H. M. S. _Odin_ arrived at Tristan having onboard Mr. Hammond Tooke who was commissioned by the Cape Government tomake the following offer to the islanders:--"Should all the inhabitantswish to leave the Island, the Cape and Home Governments would provide themwith a free passage, purchase their live stock from them and settle themwithin 100 miles of Cape Town, allowing them about two acres of land onrent, and would advance them money on loan to start their homes. They werealso told that they would be near the sea coast, where they would be ableto start fisheries to supply the people of Cape Town . .. And that infuture they could not rely on a yearly visit from a man-of-war" (BlueBook). Only three families accepting this offer it was withdrawn. 

_Wednesday, March_ 6. --Yesterday and to-day rain and a rough sea stoppedthe unloading. Mr. Keytel has brought a gramophone and has given a concertat the Repettos' house. I have never enjoyed a gramophone so much as Ihave this one, more particularly the orchestral part. 

We have been writing on and off all day. There were more meetings thisafternoon. Several matters needed discussion. One concerned the mail whichis sometimes opened in rather a promiscuous fashion--even in the boats. Ithas been agreed that in future it shall be brought straight to this house. Repetto is to continue to act as postmaster, and the opening to be in thepresence of all who wish to attend. It has also been agreed that anyletters or packages addressed to the Governor, or other supposedauthority, Graham shall open on behalf of the islanders. These have cometo be thought nobody's property, and to be appropriated by any one intowhose hands they might fall. 

Mr. Keytel also had a meeting. He has become very interested in the islandand is going to do what he can to start a sheep trade, so he wanted totalk it all out with the people. He is keen upon improvements. Amongstother points he suggests that only a few cattle should be kept and thatfood should be grown to supply them in winter; and that a piece of land berailed off for the pigs which do so much havoc to the turf. He has won themen's confidence and I believe they will do what he wishes. He hopes ifall goes well to send a schooner next January to take off the sheep, whichwill probably have to be sold at a low price. Had we gone to Cape Town wecould not have obtained a better result than this unexpected visit of Mr. Keytel promises to yield. 

_Thursday, March 7_. --Graham sat up writing till two in the morning. Hehas now nearly finished his report to the Colonial office, but has stillto write to the Cape Government. I too have been writing most of the day. The ship has only been sighted in the far distance, so no business hasbeen done. This is the third successive day of no communication with her. The wind of yesterday blew her far out to sea. We are so longing to openour packages, but it seems better to get the letters that have come tohand answered first. 

_Saturday, March 9_. --Yesterday the men went off to the _Greyhound_--I donot think I have mentioned the name of the schooner before--and got backsome time before midnight. They have gone off again to-day, after whichthey have only to go once more. 

_Later_, 10 p. M. --We have just opened a package which we thought containedpapers, and to our delight have found letters and cards innumerable. 

_Monday, March ll_. --The men are bringing in the last load from theschooner. Latterly the weather has been very favourable. 

Mr. Keytel has had a splendid opportunity of getting to know the people, their needs, and the possibilities of the island. He thinks there may bean opening not only for sheep-breeding and for the drying of fish, ofwhich there are great quantities, but also for sealing; and talks ofcoming next December and spending a whole year here with the object ofstarting the industries. It looks, therefore, as if a future were openingat last for Tristan. 

Mr. And Mrs. Beverley of Cape Town have been so kind. They packed a largecase full of things, such as children's clothes, remnants of material, puzzles and toys, including a grand doll's house. A case has also beenreceived from the congregation of Holy Trinity Church, many members ofwhich have very kindly written. 

_Tuesday, March_ 12. --Still busy writing. In addition to my own I havemany letters to write for the islanders to friends in England andelsewhere who have sent them parcels. 

Last evening I went to the cemetery to try to make a sketch of Mr. Macan'sgrave for his grandmother. This is the young man who came in the _Pandora_in 1904 and was drowned, as it is thought, in trying to swim round a bluffto the west of Burntwood. His body was found the next morning on thebeach, but whether he had fallen off the cliff or had been drowned inswimming round is uncertain. 

[Illustration: THE CRATER LAKE]

[Illustration: ON THE SUMMIT OF THE PEAK]

Graham has at last had his heart's desire, namely, to ascend the Peak. Heand Mr. Keytel with five of the islanders started off early this morning. At seven we could see them on the sky-line of the mountain above thesettlement. They got back about six this evening. I am thankful I did notgo, for they say it was a tremendous climb, and the last part, over alava-covered surface, the hardest bit of all. I give a description of theexpedition in his own words--

"Mr. Keytel and I had as guides or companions old Sam Swain, Andrew Swain, Tom Rogers, Repetto and young Sam Swain. We started at 5. 30 a. M. And in anhour and a half were 2, 000 feet up, on the top of what the islanders callthe base of the mountain. With the exception of a mile and a half at theend the climbing was now done, and the rest of the way little more thanwalking up-hill. The first mile from the edge of the base was fairly flat, but over spongy ground thickly studded with stout ferns which came upabove our knees. Then we got on to a grassy slope, and from that descendedinto a gulch, up which we went for about a mile. Getting out of this wenext trudged over grassy slopes on which were growing fine specimens ofthe crowberry. This kind of ground lasted to within a mile and a half ofthe summit, but the grass became scarcer, and was in patches only. Thenall vegetation ceased, I did not notice even moss, and the ascent becamemuch steeper, about as steep as from St. Ann's Well to the top of theWorcestershire Beacon. But the going was much harder because the groundoffered no sure foothold, consisting as it did of loose burnt stones andearth which let you down one step for every two taken. Our Cape visitor inthe gulch had felt that he could not lift his foot for another step; hekept on, however, right to the top, and I began to feel the same. Althoughin no sense done up, I found this last bit harder work than all the restof the way put together. The men felt it too. The end, though, came atlast, and we proudly stood on the rim of the crater. It was soon evidentto us, however, that we were not on the highest point. That was on thepart of the rim opposite to us, and in between was the bottom of thecrater. Lying in this bottom was a small lake, perhaps eighty yards bysixty. We made our way down to it and half-way round it, and then sat downto lunch. We found the crater water quite drinkable. After lunch I had aswim in the lake, whereupon Mr. Keytel promptly brought his camera intoaction. He took many other photographs. Then we set our eyes upon thathighest bit of rim and doggedly making for it were soon shouting andwaving our caps on the top. It was now twenty minutes past one. At aquarter to three we began to return, and were home by twenty-fiveminutes past six. The day for the climb and the view was a perfect one. "

To-morrow the schooner leaves and with it goes our touch with the outsideworld. With what it has left behind we shall have enough to occupy us formany a day. We have become quite fond of the little brown puppy, which wehave named Jock. It is very teachable, and is immensely interested in thecattle that pass, barking with great energy at them. 

_Wednesday, March_ 13. --Mr. Keytel intended leaving to-day but the_Greyhound_ has not made its appearance; it is thought it is becalmed. Allthe better for our letters. This morning Mr. Keytel photographed a groupof all the islanders, then the women only, and afterwards the men. Thephotographs were taken on the common just outside our house. 

_Thursday, March_ 14. --Such a large ship is passing and the men, I think, would go out to it were they not waiting to go out to the schooner, whichis now in front of the settlement. 

[Illustration: COMPLETE GROUP OF THE ISLANDERS]

_Tuesday, March_ 19. --The _Greyhound_ after all did not leave last week;the sea was too rough for the boats to go out. It did not get off tillyesterday, due partly to the caution of the captain who would keep awayfrom land and partly to the weather. We two sent off about one hundred andtwenty letters. The captain wanted to see Graham to show him how to read abarometer sent by the Cape Meteorological Commission. I thought I would gotoo and take Ellen. We had no sooner put out to sea than we realized itwas going to be much rougher than we anticipated, and, the _Greyhound_standing out after the cautious manner of her captain, we had somedistance to go. Mr. Keytel was out fishing and was to follow. We all keptwell till we got to the ship. Clambering up the rope ladder we were soonon board and being greeted by such a kind old captain. He was seventy-fouryears old with snow-white hair and had only one eye. Graham soon sank intoa chair and was quite past reading barometers or anything else. He couldjust assent to remarks made to him by the captain and that was all. Ellenwas in no better plight and sat on a bench near me, and I cannot say Ifelt cheerful, for the schooner, which was empty and had not much ballast, was rolling considerably. I carried on various conversations and strainedmy eyes to see if Mr. Keytel's boat was coming. It was a long wait, andwhen at last he did get on board he had gifts to bestow upon the menbefore we could get off. How thankful we were when that moment came; eventhen there were many adieux to be said. I was thankful to see that Grahamand Ellen were capable of descending the ladder. The wind was rising andthe sea sweeping in from the west. But I felt complete confidence in themen, they are such good seamen and so thoroughly understand their boatsand what they are capable of. The two boats began to race, and we simplyflew through the water. It was splendid. We soon gained the shore, and itwas with no little satisfaction we saw ourselves at home. Then we retiredto our beds, Graham not to appear again until next day, for he had aracking headache. After lunch Ellen and I tried to tidy the sitting-room, which was strewn with packages. 

To-day has been entirely taken up with the distribution of goods amongstthe people. The boxes had first to be sorted out; one had no name on, andone of the crockery cases could not at first be found, having beenaddressed differently to the other Government cases. These crockery casestook some time to unpack. The contents made a grand show laid out in BobGreen's house. They were--

 1 dozen brown earthenware teapots. 5 dozen plates. 5 dozen soup-plates. Vegetable dishes. 6 dozen cups and saucers. 1 dozen flowered bowls and covers. 2 dozen tumblers. 5 dozen egg-cups. 8 saucepans. Pails and other useful things; it is a most useful gift. 

I must now describe the people's way of dividing these goods, which istheir usual method of distribution. When an equal number of each set hadbeen given round to every family, and there were some over but not enoughto go round again, they put these with those things of which there werenot enough to go round, such as the teapots, saucepans and pails. Thenthey arranged these in seventeen lots on the floor, taking care to makeeach lot, as far as was possible, of the same value. The number seventeenwas chosen because there are seventeen families. One man now turned hisback, generally looking out at the door; another standing over the thingspointed with his finger to one of the lots and said "That. " The man whoseback was turned called out in answer the name of the woman of a family, till each family had had a turn. The people stood or sat round. They haveapparently worked this method out for themselves and find it creates lessfeeling than any other. This took all the morning. 

The afternoon was devoted to the division of material and clothing at theRepettos' house. There was a goodly supply. A lady at Eastbourne who formany years has taken a deep interest in the islanders, had sent enoughgrey woollen material for all the women to have a jacket. Others sent twolarge bales of brown calico, a good quantity of red and grey flannel, andenough strong blue serge and brown tweed for every man to have a pair oftrousers. There was also sent a great quantity of clothes. This "sharingout" went on till dusk. Finally a large box of sweets, the gift of Mr. Keytel, was distributed among the children. When we got home we began tounpack our own parcels. There are some large packages of papers which takea long time to sort and divide. 

After our unwonted doings we are all feeling rather tired and not capableof doing much, but still we have begun school, as the children had aholiday all the time the schooner was here. 

This afternoon I went up with some medicine for Mrs. Henry Green, who hascaught a bad chill. As she seems very short of warm clothing I have givenher a jacket and skirt of those sent me. 

CHAPTER XIX

_Wednesday, March_ 27. --The Cape Meteorological Commission has sent Grahamthe following instruments with a request that he would take regularobservations--

 An aneroid barometer. A Fortin mercurial barometer. Dry and wet bulb hygrometers. A maximum thermometer. A minimum thermometer. A five-inch rain gauge. 

The hygrometers and thermometers are to be kept in a Stevenson's screen. Whether he will be able to take the readings as often as is suggested isdoubtful, but it will be interesting work. 

Some rather amusing letters have been received. One from a high Turkishofficial runs thus--

"_Constantinople_, "21 _Septembre_, 1906. 

"MONSIEUR LE GOUVERNEUR, "Je me permets de vous prier d'avoir l'extrême obligeance de m'indiquer lenombre total des habitants de Tristan da Cunha avec Dépendances et laquantité de ceux qui appartiennent à la religion mahométane, avecl'indication du nombre des Sunites ou Chütes et de leur nationalitérespective. 

"Dans l'attente de votre réponse je vous prie, Monsieur le Gouverneur, devouloir bien agréer mes salutations distinguées et mes remercimentsanticipées. "

There is a very interesting letter from the Dixie professor ofEcclesiastical History, Cambridge, who asks Graham to collect for himwhelks, limpets, periwinkles, snails, cowries, etc. Here is an extractfrom it--

"It is not, however, the shells I care for, but the teeth of the animalswithin. I have just one species from Tristan--a small land shell of aninteresting genus (Balea). One species is European, one Japanese, thethird Tristan. Its nearest ally is an enormous Eurasian genus (Clausilia)of seven hundred species which hardly gets into Africa and does not crossBehring Strait, though there are thirty more in Peru and one in PortoRico. So you see how strangely isolated your Tristan species is. Itsnearest cousins are in Tunis and Abyssinia. I fancy the land shells ofTristan will _not_ have a Magellanic character like the one Kerguelenspecies. Anyhow they are sure to be intensely interesting. "

_Good Friday_. --We have had a beautiful day, just like a spring day athome. We had service at 10. 30 which lasted a little over an hour. Aboutfifty-eight were present. The men are not attending so well now. The twonew arrivals do not come to church, and I think it induces the others tostay away. We had service again at three o'clock, after which Graham andI went to inquire after Mrs. H. Green, who has been ailing withrheumatism. It is an old complaint, and due, it is thought, to exposure onthe mountain years ago. She went up with a party on to the Base; a fogcame on, and she became separated from her companions and wanderedhopelessly about with her dog. The fog was followed by a heavythunderstorm with vivid lightning, and she was drenched through. Barefootand wet to the bone she lay all night in the ferns with the dog at herside. Next morning her hands were so swollen with the cold she had no usein them until the sun came out and warmed them. Her only food was birds'eggs which she occasionally sucked. She was not found till the nextafternoon, though a search party had been out twice to look for her. Shewas in bed for a week, and ever since has been subject every few years toprolonged rheumatic attacks accompanied by great depression which oftenlasts for months. She is a nice-minded woman, very quiet, and grateful foranything done for her. In this she is unlike many who accept everything asa matter of course. 

The three Repetto girls and Sophy have been weeding the garden, which hasbeen rather neglected lately. We have planted some trees in it grown fromEucalyptus seed collected on Table Mountain. I planted it here in potswhich I kept in the dark, and it came up well. About a hundred and sixtysturdy little trees are the result. In years to come they may be usefulfor firewood. In a book on forestry left here by Mr. Tooke, they are saidto be very useful trees to grow for this purpose, as they bear loppingwell. 

_Easter Sunday_. --At the Holy Communion to-day there were twenty present;some coming for the first time, and one or two men coming who had notcommunicated since Mr. Dodgson's time. All who had been prepared forConfirmation were invited except the boys and girls. 

I am thinking of starting a Bible class for girls on Sundays. I feel I doso little for them. We see most of those girls whose ages range from nineto thirteen. 

A thunderstorm has just passed over us; the effects on sea and land weremost beautiful, everything assuming such a vivid colouring as one onlyoccasionally sees. 

_Wednesday, April 3_. --We got up early this morning, as Graham was goingto the Ponds, but Henry Green sent down to say it would be better to putoff going until to-morrow, as it looked like rain. One or two of the girlsare going, so I have decided to go too. I believe it is a stiffish climb. We spent the afternoon among the cases trying to find one containingmaterial. Then we unpacked a kettle, which we badly need; we have hadlately to boil our water in a saucepan. 

_Friday, April 5_. --Yesterday we again got up early and were ready tostart for the Ponds, when Henry again sent down to say it was going torain. 

We have two invalids to visit now. The one is Mrs. Henry Green who makesno progress at all, and seems very miserable. I really think she ought tobe in bed, but she says their bedroom window does not open, and she feelsthe heat of the room. The other is Charlotte Swain, who apparently has ahousemaid's knee. It is very painful and much swollen. I have painted itwith iodine, which has reduced the swelling. 

A little time ago we happened to say to Tom Rogers how tiring we foundcooking in the sitting-room owing to the fire being on the hearth, whichentailed constant stooping. Two or three days afterwards he came tomeasure the fire-place, and that afternoon he and Bob Green fixed twolarge stones, raising the fire a good foot. But the men are not always soready to help. We wanted them to build on an extra room to our house, asthere is no larder and the kitchen is very small. Our bedroom and thekitchen share the same window, and when the wind is contrary the smokepours into the bedroom. We thought the west-end wall might be taken downand the room built without very great difficulty. All hands met to-day toconsider this, when most of the men refused to do anything, though somewere quite willing to help. The life here very much conduces to every manlooking out for himself. Graham tried to point out to them how importantit was they should build a church and house if they want a clergyman orteacher to come here in the future; and that they could not expect LucyGreen and Betty Cotton to always give up their houses; but they did notseem inclined to do anything. If a clergyman or teacher came they wouldlike him to board with one of themselves--an impossible arrangement. Theydo not understand the need of a larder, the greater part of them keepinggroceries in the bedroom, sometimes under the bed. We have to keep a largebarrel of flour, our bread and milk in the sitting-room. 

_Saturday, April 6_. --The men appeared _en masse_ early this morning tosay they were ready to start upon the house. We thanked them, but underthe circumstances thought it best not to have the work done. They oughtreally to build on to their own houses, for some are very short ofbedrooms, and the sitting-room has nearly always to be used as a bedroomtoo. They can build if they like, for a few years ago on his marriage BillRogers built a house which looks very well; getting timbers for the roofis the great difficulty. We hear that Lavarello was very sorry he hadrefused his help to build the room and that night paced up and down vexedwith himself for so doing. 

_Sunday, April 7_. --This afternoon I started the Girls' Class half-an-hourbefore service. As soon as I left the house all seven girls flew round thecorner to join me. For the last hour they had been waiting at BettyCotton's just opposite. They are very pleased at having a class. It makessuch a difference teaching children to whom almost everything in the Bibleis new. They listened so attentively. We have begun with Genesis and I dohope to make the teaching practical. After service we went to the HenryGreens', who live up the hill in a direct line from here. She is much thesame. Chris is at last beginning to walk, but cannot speak a word. Ibelieve they fear he is dumb. He understands very well what is said tohim. I never saw a child tumble about more in his attempts to walk, but hedoes not seem to mind a bit and can walk backwards as easily as forwards. 

_Tuesday, April 9_. --Repetto has been levelling the floor of our bedroomspreparatory to putting down some green linoleum, which we got to savelabour, as it is so difficult to sweep and keep clean rough boards. Sailor-like, he slung the beds to a beam of the ceiling, which avoidedtaking them to pieces. 

_Thursday, April 11_. --I have just finished a serge skirt; it has manygores in it, and has turned out better than I expected, indeed, it looksquite tailor-made. 

We are having an incursion of rats, and traps are going off at all hoursof the day and night. Most of the rats caught are small and more likemice. The other day my favourite chicken walked into the sitting-room andgot its head caught in a trap. It extricated itself, but was so stunned itfell over and could not walk; it has since recovered. 

_Monday, April 15_. --As there are holes in the roof it had been arrangedthat the back side of the house should be re-thatched, and the men, fourteen in all, came to-day to do it. We got up soon after five to beready for them, and had time to go down for a bathe. They began by cuttingthe tussock in the garden. While they were doing that we partly emptiedthe loft. By the time we came back from school they were in full swing. After taking off the old thatch they swept the loft, and a nice time wehad of it below. As soon as possible Ellen buckled to to sweep. When theirwork was done they had tea with biscuits and rock cakes. Nine hundredbundles of tussock were used to thatch the one side of the house. The menfasten the thatch to the rafters with tarred string using a large ironneedle. Three men work together, one in the loft, one on the roof, and athird tossing up bundles. We had sent to the Cape for lead to put alongthe ridge in the place of turf, and this they have put on. We hope now theroof will be rain and dust-proof, and the walls less damp. 

Poor Mrs. H. Green is still feeling very miserable; she manages to getabout and that is all. Her eldest daughter, Ethel, who is just sixteen, isgetting on so well at school. She is by far the best reader, reading quitefluently, and writes very well. She is very staid, and we think she mightpossibly act as school-mistress in the future. Her brother Alfred, twoyears older, has perseveringly stuck to his reading. He can hardly mastereven short words. Still, he is getting on, especially in writing andarithmetic. He is a very clean, neat and orderly lad, and has greatlybrightened in appearance since he began coming to school. The elder girlswill not do as well as the younger, who will soon outpace them. The formerhave lately been learning to write letters. Up till now two or three womenand Repetto have written for the whole colony. 

[Illustration: A GROUP OF ALL THE MEN]

_Saturday, April 20_. --We have been thinking with much satisfaction thatour letters taken by the _Grey-hound_ will probably be received in Englandto-day. Since she left a ship has not so much as been seen. 

This has been an afternoon of knocks at the door. First, Repetto's, whocame to replace the tin round the pipe on the roof, but it beginning torain he helped instead to put together a churn. We have started makingbutter. Our next visitor was little Willie Repetto, who came for thyme andparsley. Next came Rebekah to borrow the boot-brushes and blacking for herbrother, a weekly request; then Ned Green for matches for his grandmother. He was followed by Sophy who wanted medicine for her mother, and she byArthur Rogers for leeks for his mother's soup. Lastly, came Rebekah againwith Mabel for nails for nailing birds' skins on their house wall to drythem. This morning there was a request for baking-powder, and Harry Swainbrought a pair of horns for a birthday offering. Many days are like this, and our house often resembles a shop. 

It was Mary Repetto's birthday this week. I made her a pretty light-bluepinafore. She was very pleased with it, and her mother so much so, thatMary was sent with a live fowl as a return offering, but we did not acceptit, as we want them to learn we do not wish to be repaid for presents. 

_Sunday, April 21_. --We have been having good attendances in churchlately. The men are again attending well, and two new-comers have started. On Sunday evenings, there being no service, we read aloud. Graham begins, and just now is reading _Religions of the World_. Then I read; my presentbook is called _Holiness of Life_. I have just been preparing a lesson forthe women. I find Ryle's _Expositions of the Gospels_ a great help, theyare so simple and practical. 

CHAPTER XX

_Wednesday, April 24_. --We have at last made the expedition to the Ponds. On Monday evening Henry Green sent down word that he was starting earlynext morning. So on Tuesday we rose at five, and two hours later Grahamand I set off ahead. We were glad to get a start so as to ensure a restbefore the others came up. We went over the common and down to and alongBig Beach. After walking over a sandy stretch there, we climbed up theside of the mountain on to a narrow path and there awaited them. WillSwain came hurrying up looking very hot, he thought we had got down toolow. Soon there joined us Henry Green, who was the guide, Rebekah, Ethel, and Lily and Ruth Swain. We then followed the narrow and ascending pathacross Plantation Gulch, where on the left was a yawning precipice. 

[Illustration: THE PATH OF PLANTATION GULCH]

Several halts were called, during which we picked and ate berries. It wasa long and stiff climb. Towards the top the grass got longer and we hadoften to clamber under the branches of trees, of which there were scarcelyany lower down. When we reached the top the path led up a stony gulch, from which there was a beautiful view up a valley. Then we had to climband pass along the steep side of a hill. After this we were on flatterground. It was very misty and the scenery reminded me much of the moors ofScotland. We saw many young mollyhawks sitting near their nests andshowing white in the undergrowth. We now walked over more level ground, along what Henry called a road but I should hardly call a trail. Thenagain over very uneven ground and through high ferns. By eleven we were atFirst Lagoon Gulch, which resembled the dry bed of a wide and deep river. There we had a light lunch. In about twenty minutes we started again. Ourcourse lay up a steep hill and over much the same sort of ground asbefore. At noon we were above the ponds. It now came on to rain hard. Wetried to shelter under the edge of the cliff overhanging them, but by thetime the rain ceased the girls were wet through. There was a thick mistand we could not even see the ponds, of which there are three, and whichlay far below. After some deliberation we decided not to descend to them, and turned our steps homeward. We returned at a good rate, the girlsflying in front of us. Will Swain took his own way back. With a thick misthanging all round it would have been impossible to find the way without aguide. At intervals we stopped to wring the wet out of our skirts. I wasthankful when we got to the gulch where we had to descend; though the windwas there blowing gales. We got down the first part of the mountain veryquickly, but only by frequently sitting down on the long wet grass to slipdown steep pitches. When we got to Plantation Gulch we found a fire andtea awaiting us--the work of Will Swain and the girls. Now we knew whythey had hurried on. It was excellent and most refreshing. We were home bythree. The next day Rebekah came to wash our muddy clothes. She had madedreadful rents in her skirt, and as she has no idea of mending beyondpatching I have darned them for her. 

We found Henry Green a most kind and considerate guide. He constantly madeshort detours in search of the easiest path and often broke off branchesto clear the way. I hear he told the men afterwards that he had notthought the "Missus" would have been able to walk so well. I asked him aswe went up the hill which was the worst day he had ever been out in on thesea. He said, "The day the _Surrey_ was here, and we were landing theluggage. The wind tore the sail of our boat and so we had not the samecontrol of her. "

_Saturday, April 27_. --Last night was so cold it kept us all wakeful. Soonafter four we were disturbed by a rat, and I thought it a good opportunityto get up and make up the dough. Ellen lit the paraffin stove and warmedthe milk and I made the bread and then retired to bed again. 

_Wednesday, May 8_. --While I write Graham and Henry Green are engrossed ina game of Tiddley Winks. Henry's wife came yesterday to stay with us, aswe thought a change might do her good. Her rheumatism is better, but sheis still feeling ill and depressed. She slept in Ellen's room and Ellen onthe sofa. This evening she made up her mind to go home, but says she willcome again tomorrow. Henry brought a bundle of wood and is sending milktwice a day because she is here. 

_Friday, May 10_. --We do not go out much for walks; they are ratherpointless without an object. But when it is dusk we often go to the top ofthe cliffs for a breath of fresh air. 

_Sunday, May 12_. --Sophy Rogers said to me as we were going up to theclass, "We shall miss it when you are gone. " I felt encouraged. 

_Tuesday, May 14_. --Mrs. H. Green did not come back to sleep, but spendsthe day here now. She told them at home if she stayed the night here shefelt as if she should go out of her mind. She has her meals with us andGraham cracks jokes to make her laugh. 

Just as we had finished dinner to-day there was a hasty knock at the doorand Bob Green rushed in. We thought he was going to cry "Sail, ho, " but itwas to say there was a sea-elephant on the Flat Rocks. These are aboutfour miles away to the east of the Hardies. We at once started off, Mrs. Green coming with us as far as her sister's. A number of women andchildren were on the way; the men had already gone armed with their guns. At the potato patches we had to descend the cliff and go for some wayalong the shore. The men awaited us at a point where the sea was breakingon to the cliff and helped us over. We had to watch our opportunity andmake a run for it. We were now in sight of the sea-elephant, which lookedlike a black log lying on the beach. It was a young one and measured abouttwelve feet in length. When discovered it was asleep. The coast is verypicturesque just there, high rocks standing out in the sea. We all troopedhome together and got back in the early evening. 

_Wednesday, May 15_. --The men were all out today cutting up thesea-elephant, which when boiled down makes excellent oil for burning. 

A ship was seen off the settlement, but it was too late to let the menknow in time for them to get back and go out to it. It came well in and weregretted it was not taking our letters. 

_Thursday, May 16_. --A four-masted ship was descried towards dusk. 

_Friday, May 17_. --This morning Repetto came to the school window andasked me to go and see his wife who had been taken ill in the night with abad heart attack, and for about two hours had been unable to speak. Ifound her in much the same condition. After taking a little brandy shefelt better, and improved as the day wore on. 

_Thursday, May 23_. --The cattle are looking so different this year; themen say they have not seen so much grass at this time of the year foryears. When Mr. Keytel was here he showed the men how to shoot an ox, dispatching one with his first shot. I am glad to say that since that theyhave tried to do the same. The men are longing for a ship as they have runout of tobacco. Scarcely any one possesses matches now, so we haveconstant requests for them. 

We have begun asking two at a time of the older people to have tea with uson Wednesdays. The younger married people we shall ask to supper, as theydo not mind coming out at night. This afternoon we had old Caroline Swainwho is seventy-nine and her sister Mary Glass who is ten years younger. Caroline has been more or less of an invalid for many years. We glean muchof the past history of the island from the old people. They have beentelling us of the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh in the _Galatea_ in 1867, in honour of whom the Settlement is called Edinburgh. They remember wellhis having dinner in this room, and how while he was having it, allunknown to him they vied with one another in trying on his hat. 

In view of having an entertainment, we are teaching the girls some of the"Golden Boat songs" as well as recitations which the boys also arelearning. It is rather an effort, but we think it will give pleasure. Some of the infants are learning "Three little kittens" and say itcharmingly. 

[Illustration: CATTLE, NEAR POTATO PATCHES]

_Wednesday, May 29_. --To-day has been a fête day. It is Will Swain'sbirthday. He is one of the two young men lately returned from the Capewhich, I suppose, accounts for the festivities being on such a grandscale. Two sheep were killed, and the Swains gave a dinner to every one onthe island. The elders had dinner at the Hagans' who have the largestroom, and the children at Susan Swain's. They sent us a cooked chicken forour dinner. 

_Saturday, June 8_. --So far we have had a much better winter than lastyear, there has been more sunshine and less wind. 

Graham is gradually getting the meteorological apparatus up. He andRepetto have put in the garden what resembles a meat-safe. It is thescreen for the thermometers. I objected to its being placed in the middleof the garden, and so it has been removed lower down where it cannot beseen from the house, rather, I fear, to Repetto's regret who regards it asa very desirable ornament. 

_Friday, June 14_. --Today William has been getting kelp to put on ourgarden. As the gate into the garden is not large enough for the cart topass through a portion of the wall had to be pulled down. 

_Thursday, June 20_. --Last Sunday evening Mr. And Mrs. Repetto came in. After a talk we had reading aloud and sang some hymns. One wishes onecould be of more real help to the people. Yesterday we had old Eliza Haganand Lucy Green to tea. Ellen sang to them some of Moody and Sankey's hymnsto the accompaniment of her autoharp. Graham told them we thought ofcamping out a night or two on the mountain; at which they were muchconcerned and tried hard to dissuade us. At last Eliza said a comfortableair of conviction, "Mumma won't go with Puppa. " He conveyed them home oneon either arm, both being rather decrepit. 

_Saturday, June 22_. --We are having a spell of cold weather, and snow isto be seen on the top of the mountain. It is more like our winter at home. Fortunately there is not much wind. 

_Thursday, June 27_. --Today the men have all been working on a patch ofground near here, just across the Big Watering, which Henry has let ushave for wheat. It has to be sown this month. They seem pleased to do it. They have been fairly busy lately cutting a large quantity of wood for thewinter, which is piled near their houses. Old Sam Swain and Tom Rogers goout every month fishing in order to find out for Mr. Keytel when the fishare at their best. 

Last night we had Tom and his mother to supper. She appeared soon after 5o'clock and they stayed till about 9. We had fish cakes and a semolinamould with jam. Tom much enjoyed playing Tiddley Winks, and I think wouldhave gone on happily till midnight. We ended the evening with a hymn andprayers. 

_Saturday, June 29_. --We have spent the afternoon in the garden movingsome of the Eucalyptus plants. Several are over a foot high and have verylong tap-roots. We cannot plant them in any other garden, as the peoplesay they would infect the soil with the white mould which is all over thisgarden. This mould has already rotted the roots of one or two. Ned andCharlie helped me to weed and to put small stones round the bed for aborder. Little Charlie pulled up some Love-in-a-mist thinking it was aweed. When he found out what he had done, he turned away and buried hisface in his arm and wept. We tried to console him, but it was some timebefore he could get over it. "He's skeered, " said Ned. 

_Wednesday, July 3_. --We have a little handmaid, Mary Repetto. She isdelighted to come and is most capable. She comes for an hour twice a day, and receives a shilling a week. Early this morning Ben had a return of hisfits, which seem rather worse this time; he has had five today. His sisterMrs. H. Green is much better. On Monday I took her to the wheatfield tohelp me to sow. We sowed the seed broadcast while Graham and her husbandraked it in. 

_Friday, July 5_. --We had our entertainment yesterday at five. I thinkevery one was present with the exception of old Caroline Swain. I foundout just at the last that the children were not changing their clothes, soI bustled them off home to do so. The whole affair lasted about one hourand a half and was the first of the kind the people had had on the island. Graham began with a reading, "Harry" from the Gordon League Ballads, andcaused much laughter when he curtsied as Jim's wife did before the Queen. Some of the recitations were rather feeble, but perhaps we only wereconscious of it. William in one piece was much pleased with shoulderingGraham's gun, and when the auspicious moment came for him to pretend toshoot (a small boy at his side letting off a cap pistol), he looked quitewhite in the face. In "We are little sailors, " the girls very effectuallyused pocket-handkerchiefs for sails. In another song they had to march, clap, and jump. The big girls enjoyed it quite as much as the younger. Charlotte Swain, who is rather fat, could not jump for laughing, andsaid, "I shall laugh a lot more yet. " We finished with the NationalAnthem, which was quite new to them. 

_Thursday, July 18_. --It is a long time since I have written in my diary, but I have twenty letters waiting to be dispatched. We have been evenlonger this year than last without being able to communicate with a ship. It is just four months since the schooner left. Every one is longing for aship. The people are short of soap, but we have been able to give them alittle. 

We have been having decidedly cold weather which has told upon the younglambs, several having died at night. 

A day or two ago I said to Robert Lavarello, a boy of ten who is supposedto be somewhat of a cook, "Could you make a loaf of bread?" "Yes, " heanswered, "I think I could. " "Well, " I said, "try, and bring the loaf forme to see. " The next morning he appeared before breakfast triumphantlybearing a plate with a loaf on it covered with a white cloth to which waspinned the Italian tricolour. His cheeks glowed with pleasure as hedisplayed the loaf kneaded and baked by himself. It was far moresuccessful than one I had baked that morning which had burst when takenout of the tin and which I was careful to keep in the background! As areward he was presented with a tin of jam and a large leek which we heardwas much enjoyed by his father, who ate it raw. 

The Repettos came to supper last night. She looked so elegant in a muslinblouse, and with a very pretty print handkerchief, decorated with Swisschalets and edelweiss, on her head. For supper we had fish soup thickenedwith vegetables, stewed apricots and tea. Our guests always eat sosparingly. 

CHAPTER XXI

_Thursday, July 25_. --Sitting at breakfast we heard the joyful sound"Sail, ho!" We jumped up to look and then settled down to writing. The menwere out at their potato patches, and when they got back decided not totry for the ship as she was too far east to be caught. Our hope of a shipis always raised after a north-west wind which appears to blow ships thisway. But on many days this month had one come it would have beenimpossible for the boats to have gone out, as it was either too rough atsea or there was too much surf. 

_Friday, July 26_. --Mrs. Repetto, who came in to ask me to show her how toknit my kind of heel, told me the men could have caught the ship yesterdayif they had liked, but they "dallied about. " If Repetto had been here Ithink perhaps a boat would have gone as I know he is anxious to get hisletters off. In answer to a request from him Mr. B---- of Drogheda, Ireland, has sent a beautiful pig-skin satchel to be used as post-bag whengoing off to ships. It is a real boon, as the letters so often got wet. 

A great number of illustrated papers was brought by the _Greyhound_, whichwe enjoy looking through when too lazy for harder work. There were alsosome _Fortnightly_ and _National Reviews_, and the _Nineteenth Century_, which Graham enjoys and sometimes reads aloud to me. He gets through moregeneral reading than at home. Wet days are spent by him in opening casesand arranging the contents in the loft in most precise order. Woe betideus if we disarrange anything. 

The entertainment we had was so much enjoyed the people would like to haveit again, so perhaps at the next full moon we may repeat it. 

_Friday, August 2_. --We had the entertainment last night. At a rehearsalin the morning we made several improvements in the pieces. The "Hen andher Chickens" was charming. The tiniest children sat on the floor groupedround the clucking hen as her chicks, and when she got up to go theyfollowed, giving delightful little jumps until they disappeared with herinto the next room. Then another piece, "Thomas and his Donkey, " wasimproved--at least so the audience thought--by the donkey suddenlykicking up his heels and throwing his rider, who lay sprawling on thefloor. I think the people, especially the men, find the winter eveningslong. Most of them go to bed betimes. Whenever we look out of our passagewindow long before we are thinking of going to bed ourselves, no lightsare to be seen in the houses, unless it is Repetto's, who reads in bedwhen he can get oil. 

Poor little Jock is having such bad fits. We sometimes think we shall haveto put an end to him. 

The thermometer registered 44-1/2 degrees last night. There was a cry of"Sail, ho!" raised this morning, but the supposed ship turned out to be acloud. We have learnt to take these cries calmly for they often end innothing. 

_Saturday, August 10_. --On Wednesday we gave the school a holiday. It cameabout in this way. Will Swain arranged with Bill Green that they twoshould give Graham a treat. He was to try his hand at driving a team ofoxen. The treat was quite a success. They fetched two loads of wood whichhad been cut and left on the hillside about four miles off. The load hasto be built up very carefully. For the foundation a strong spreadingbranch is chosen with the trunk end turning up like the runners of asleigh. This branch is called the "rider, " and on it are piled the otherbranches to the height of about four feet. The load is bound together bycords, and the oxen attached to it by a strong chain. Graham managed todrive his load without upsetting it and with only the loss of one piece. The load was a present to us, and was, we believe, a delicate return formoney lent the two men to buy spades with when the _Greyhound_ was here. Graham had said they could work it out by digging the wheat-field, but as"all hands" did that, probably the two thought they would like to give thewood. 

Today William brought in a bird which he called a "Starchy, " but which isjust like our old friend the garden thrush. He says there are lots of themon the hill. They have no song. 

A great many of the Eucalyptus trees have died. We think we ought to havetransplanted them earlier, but were told that July was the right month andso waited until then. 

_Wednesday, August 14_. --We are awaiting our usual Wednesday guests. Onthese occasions I always wear a white skirt and blouse. Of our friends, Mrs. Repetto is the only one who has attempted any elegance, most havecome in jackets. Yesterday, I am sorry to say, she had another heartattack. The children came down for some brandy. We went up to see her andshe seemed only half-conscious. I thought a hot bottle might do her good, so went home to get one. This morning when I went in she was up and lyingin a deck-chair in front of the fire. It is difficult to know what theseattacks of pain at the heart arise from. I believe they begin withshivering. 

On Monday, as I was going up to school, I saw Eliza Hagan waiting about. Soon I heard "Mumma, " and then followed an invitation to four-o'clock teathat day, and as I was going, "Puppa must come too" was called out. Accordingly we appeared punctually at the hour named. A table was spreadwith a white cloth. Susan Hagan, Rebekah, and Willie Swain were present, but only four partook of the tea, our hostess, Mrs. Lucy Green, who livesin the house, and ourselves. We sat on a bench drawn up to the table whichwas graced by a most excellent cake, and we learnt that a quantity ofbutter and six eggs had been used in the making of it. The large room waslit by a very dim light. Ellen was invited next day. 

_Friday, August 16_. --We have been up to the top of Bugsby Hole again. Wehad taken Ellen, and on our return found William had been thoughtfulenough to feed the fowls, boil some water at his home and make us tea. Hehad also fetched a load of wood as a present. Of his own accord at morningprayers he always places our Bibles on the table ready for us. 

We have now been five months without a ship. 

_Thursday, August 22_. --Early this morning we were greeted by the newsthat a steamer was passing in the far distance and could just bediscerned. The sea was far too rough for the men to think of going out. But it is something even to see a ship. Perhaps another will follow. 

We are having quite a cold spell of weather with a bitter wind. Afterschool I went down to the seashore to take some photographs, as there wasa fine sea with rather grand effects. 

Graham went for a walk on the shore this afternoon, taking little Jock, who unfortunately picked up a stinging fish; Graham got it from him, butwas too late to prevent its stinging him. He gave little squeals, andfinally fell down as if dead. Graham picked him up and made for home. Onthe top of the cliff he stopped to rest, where, upon being put down Jockopened his eyes, when Graham rubbed him, and before long he came round andseemed quite himself again. 

_Saturday, August 24_. --This has been an exciting day. I was baking breadwhen there came a quick tap at the passage window. Mrs. Bob Green had rundown to tell us there was a steamer to the west. I at once got out theletters, added hasty post-scripts and dated them. Graham soon camehurrying in and also began to write. He made up his mind to go as the seawas very smooth. Two boats put off. From the higher ground we could seethe steamer, which was coming along very slowly. The boats had a good longwait for it. When it came up our men were allowed on board and stayed forabout an hour. It was making its first voyage and was bound for Bombay, but was calling at Durban. We, therefore, hope our letters will reachEngland the first week in October. Graham said the Peak, seen from thewater, was covered with snow. The thermometer lately has now and againbeen as low as 44 degrees. 

We find we are sixty-five minutes behind time. The people had told us ourclocks were slow. The Hagans have on their doorstep a sun-mark cut by ashipwrecked captain, from which they can tell the time. Only a fewfamilies own clocks. 

_Monday, August 26_. --Poor little Jock is no more. He did not turn up forhis breakfast, but I thought perhaps he was having a game with JohnGlass's puppy. When we came back from morning service I went in search ofhim but could not find him. Just before lunch Susan Repetto ran in to tellus as she was driving the geese across the Big Watering she had found himlying dead in the water. We went to look, and there a little way up thestream, was poor little Jock. He had no doubt had a fit and rolled downthe bank. 

We are revolving in our minds the question of having to stay with us fromTuesday till Saturday one of the younger girls of each family by turn. Thechild could quite well sleep on the sofa. Ellen is anxious we should havethem and would bathe them and do their hair. We think this plan mightteach them ways of cleanliness and in other respects influence them forgood. When at school I often have to dispatch a scholar to the stream. Itis surprising what a presentable appearance the people have, but we wantthem to have something more. 

We were so amused on Sunday by three boys, just before morning service, bringing this message from William, "Would Mr. Barrow lend him his bootsto go to church in?" Ellen's reply was short: "This is not a boot shop, "and tickled the little boys immensely. Many and various have been therequests, but I think that one surpasses them all. One day a small childwas sent to borrow our broom. An old one was lent which has not been seenagain. Several of our goods are already bespoken in view of our departureeighteen months hence. 

The dogs have been worrying and killing sheep, and yesterday drove threeinto the sea, where they were drowned. As a result several of the dogshave been shot. Complaints were made to Repetto about his dogs, and halfin temper he picked up his white fox-terrier and hammered it to death, ashe thought, and threw it into the tussock. In a few days it crawled backto the house and had to be shot. Animal life is little thought of here. Itis no wonder the dogs prey as they do, for many are half famished. 

_Thursday, August 29_. --Rose Swain came to stay with us yesterday. She wasa little tearful at first, but as she is only seven this was but natural. In appearance she might be an English child, having a fair skin and lightwavy hair. She is not very strong, but is quick in learning. 

_Saturday, August 31_. --This week the men have been building one or twohuts at the potato patches as they have there no shelter from the rain. They are actually putting in fire-places. The people often get wet, and asa consequence suffer a good deal from lumbago, which they call "thestitch. "

Ellen has begun a class for little boys and girls on Sunday afternoon. Sheis also taking in hand Caroline Swain, the oldest inhabitant, whom shecalls for each Sunday to take to church, and again on Tuesdays to take herto the women's meeting; for which attention her old friend is verygrateful. 

At the end of afternoon service there is a practice for the next Sunday. Two or three weeks ago we tried part-singing much to the pleasure of themen, who now all come up to the front. What they need is a man's voice tolead them. Ellen and I do what we can, but it is rather a case of theblind leading the blind. 

_Thursday, September 5_. --On Tuesday we saw a number of people runningeastward, and meeting some one he told us Graham had seen a sea-elephanton Big Beach and had gone to shoot it. It appears he had started for ashort walk on the cliffs, and seeing something dark lying on the beach, went down there, and saw what looked like a sea-elephant. He ran home forhis gun and sent word to the men. Returning to the beach he shot it. Whenthe elder men saw it, one or two said it was a sea-leopard, and such itproved to be. It was the _stenorhyncus leptonyx_, the most powerful sealof the Antarctic, and a rare visitor to Tristan, only two others havingbeen seen by the islanders. It had short, light-grey hair, in partsturning to green, and measured in length ten and a half feet. 

We have been having very cold weather, and yesterday morning thethermometer registered 40 degrees. Several slight snowstorms passed overthe settlement and left their traces on the hills. It is many years sincesnow has fallen so low down. 

We have little Edith Swain staying with us. Her mother was rather doubtfulabout her coming, but hearing, I think, that Rose was happy, she decidedto let her come, and sent her looking very tidy. The child seems quitecontented and happy and is no trouble. Each little guest goes back with anew undergarment. 

_Saturday, September 7_. --I think people at home would be amused with thecontents of our sitting-room, which at present has to be kitchen andlarder. On a side-table are a ham in pickle, a goose, butter and eggs; onthe fire an array of pots, and around it clothes airing for the Sabbath. The fact is the kitchen stove-pipe has collapsed. Repetto is trying tomake a new piping out of oil drums. We turn out most excellent bread now, so that our many failures of the past have somewhat sunk into oblivion. 

Early this morning I was called by Mrs. Lavarello to her boy Robert whohad injured his leg in cutting flax. The cut was a bad one and ought tohave been stitched; I did not attempt that, but washed and bandaged it andleft injunctions that he should give it complete rest. 

CHAPTER XXII

_Tuesday, September 10_. --We had the pleasure of seeing a ship today. Theweather was anything but good for going out, and after they reached theshore two or three of the men decided not to go. It was really hardly fitand got more squally as the day went on. The ship, it was evident, wantedto call. When the boats got fairly near a squall came on and they nearlymissed her. Indeed, they turned to come home, but the captain saw them andbrought his ship round. She was the _Loch Katrine_, which called here lastyear and took our second batch of letters. The men returned home in oneboat, having left the other at the Penguin Rookery some way east. They hada hard pull up from there and they and their goods were wet through. Whenwe were at supper Henry Green came in with presents from the captain: atin of Danish butter, two packets of compressed hops, and an especialpacket for myself containing some Brown Windsor soap and a sprig ofheather--a charming thought. I had another parcel from the steward, whosent soap and a bottle of scent. Our kettle has begun to leak, so we askedRepetto to try for one from the ship; and the captain kindly gave him agood old copper one, which, though it has a hole, we think will do us goodservice, for our men are very clever at mending their pots and kettles. 

Rob did a dreadful deed yesterday. Graham and I had taken him with us fora walk up the hill, sitting down several times to have a talk. As we gotup to return we suddenly missed him, and whistled. Just then Johnny Greenand Arthur Rogers came in sight and called out "Rob has killed a sheep. "We could not believe it for he had been gone only a minute or two, but heanswered the whistle and then we saw the blood on his mouth and knew itwas only too true. If only the boys had called out sooner we should havebeen in time to save the poor sheep's life. It is rather a blow to us, forif he does this sort of thing he will have to be shot, and that would bedreadful for he is such a faithful old fellow. Unfortunately, it is notthe first time he has attacked a sheep; last week, when he was out withWilliam, he ran after one; William, hearing a barking, ran to look andfound his dog and Rob attacking. He gave Rob a whipping and sent him homeand, although it was a long way, home he came. Since then we have beenkeeping an eye upon him. Mrs. Martha Green, the owner, was very nice aboutit and refused any compensation, but Graham left a sovereign on the table. It so happened the sheep was a lame one, or "a little sick, " as theexpression is here. 

To-day we left school early and soon after noon were on our way to thepotato patches where Graham wanted to help Repetto. We found quite a partythere, the whole Repetto family with Alfred Green and William. They hadjust brewed tea. Mrs. Repetto was sitting under the lee of the wall, wherea stone with a sack on it was placed for me. She was knitting, so Ibrought out mine. I am always impressed by her rugged and strongcharacter. Certainly her children do not "best" her, as she is fond ofsaying. Arthur refused to do his work, that of putting manure in thetrench. She just got up and gave him a good "hammering, " mostly on hishead and arms. He soon set to work. She is fond and proud of her children, but they know what is in store for them if they do not obey. Thechastisement, no doubt, is deserved, but I wish she would learn to give itcalmly and moderately. This is her week for serving us and almost dailyshe sends something extra. She will not accept anything in return. 

This evening Graham, as he sat in the chimney corner engrossed in reading, was unconsciously using the ham as a cushion, with the result that animpression of it in salt and grease has been left on the back of his coat. 

_Saturday, September 14_. --A steamer in sight. On the shore we found fourof the young men preparing to embark. Repetto said the steamer had got toofar for them to catch it, and so it proved. 

_Monday, September 16_. --I have been much struck by the fact that when Ihave finished dressing Robert's leg a basin of warm water, soap and towelare always brought for my use. Today we set off for a walk along BigBeach, and overtook Mrs. Repetto and her five children. Her husband wasout hunting birds and she was going to meet him with something hot todrink. We sat down and had a talk while the children scampered about. After remarking they needed clothes of iron, she went on to say that thepresent generation of girls do not know what hard work is compared withwhat those of her generation used to do after the boat was lost. We lefther to return home. As we ran down a steep sandy bank, I leading, I heardher parting salutation, "Well done, old girl. "

_Thursday, September 19_. --I asked the women to come early this afternoonto have their voices tried with a view to their taking parts in the hymns. A good many came and seemed to enjoy the novelty. Several will sing alto, which they very quickly picked up. I asked them because I thought theymight feel a little out in the cold if the men learnt part-singing andthey did not. 

[Illustration: A PENGUIN ROOKERY]

About five o'clock the children ran in to say that Graham and the men, whohad gone early in the morning to the Penguin Rookery, were returning. Theyalways light a fire on the mountain side to show they are coming back. Istarted off immediately for Big Beach, Mrs, Repetto and Mrs. Swain comingbehind with tea for their husbands. In front were the children leading adonkey to carry the eggs. Before long the men appeared, each with a bigbox of eggs on his back. The box is enclosed in a sack to which areattached arm-straps. Each box contains about one hundred and fifty eggsand is no light load. The two men gathered the three hundred eggs in abouttwenty minutes. Repetto thinks that at present about one thousand havebeen taken from the Rookery this season. When the birds are up for layingthe pairs keep together, the hen on the nest and the male standing by. They make a tremendous noise day and night. For our amusement Graham triedto imitate it; standing erect, putting his head up and violently shakingit from side to side, with mouth wide open he tried to utter their"_loha_. " Mrs. Repetto was just then drinking a cup of tea and was verynearly choked. 

_Tuesday, September 24_. --Little Lizzie Rogers is staying with us. She hasan intelligent face of rather a gipsy type, with dark brown eyes, andstraight hair. We are quite enjoying her company. She is most contentedand happy, and has settled down far better than the others did. We haveproduced a doll for her, and it is delightful to see her mothering it andwrapping it up in her pinafore. She went to sleep with it clasped in herarms. 

Martha Green came down this evening to return the sovereign, but of coursewe would not take it. 

_Thursday, September 26_. --This morning the men pulled out about fifteenmiles to a ship, but the captain would not stop for them to go on board. He offered to take the letters, but they were nettled at his not stoppingand would not give them to him. It was an Italian ship. As a rule foreignvessels carry very little surplus stock. The men do best on English andAmerican ships. This is the second time our letters have been taken off invain. 

_Saturday, September 28_. --Our little visitor has just returned home. Shewept when her mother told her she must leave us, so we had her back todinner and now she has finally departed. 

_Monday, September 30_. --At midday a ship was sighted, causing the hastyclosing of school and a hurried finishing of letters. It has been a mostanxious day. When the men started for the ship there was a comparativelyquiet sea, but towards two o'clock there was a squall, a breeze sprang up, and all the afternoon a gale has been blowing, with occasional hailstorms. The sea is covered with white caps and the wind sweeping over it. Everynow and then we can see a ring of spray being blown along which is calleda "whilly" by the people and is thought to denote danger. The men must behaving a very bad time of it. We are anxiously awaiting their return; itis now five o'clock and there is no sign of them. 

_Wednesday, October 2_. --The men never reached the ship. Every one feltvery anxious as Monday afternoon wore on. All the men were out but two. Soon after six o'clock when it was beginning to get dark we went on to thecliff. The wind was blowing so hard we could scarcely stand. We met FredSwain, who said that the two boats were coming round the point from theeast. By straining our eyes we could just dimly discern one boat. Hagannow joined us and we stood for some time watching it. It was making forBig Beach, so he and Graham ran off to Little Beach to get pieces of woodfor its landing. By the time we got down to the beach it was in and thecrew were pulling it up. They were shivering with cold and soon went offhome. About the other boat they could tell us nothing except that theybelieved it was a long way behind. After waiting some time for it Grahamand Bob Green went off in search along the shore. At Thomas island theygot an answer to their whistle, and came back to tell us the boat wascoming. The women meanwhile sat under the lee of a big rock, wherepresently they lighted a fire and warmed the tea they had brought down. Weall felt thankful when, an hour later, the last boat landed. As soon asthey had drunk the hot tea we trooped up the cliffs home. The wind blewthe lantern out and we had to grope along as best we could by the faintlight of a brand. The men did not say much as to how they had got on. ButHenry said it was the worst day he had been out in, much worse than the_Surrey_ day, and he is one of those who will go when others will not. Another said he thought every minute they were going to be swamped. Weheard later from Repetto that if one wave had broken a few feet nearer itwould have done for them. Those in the last boat broke an oar and couldmake no headway. They tried in vain to put in at another point, and fearedthey would never get in, but happily the sea went down a little. It wasthe sweeping sea and the wind coming in gusts that made it so dangerous. It was very cold, too, so that when not rowing the islanders were renderedalmost incapable. The next day the sea was quite calm. 

Yesterday Maria Green, who is thirteen, came to stay with us. She is theyounger daughter of Mrs. H. Green, and is rather a nice-looking girl, withdark wavy hair and a fairish skin. She is always spick-and-span, never somuch as a hair out of its place. Naturally she is very shy, and I think, though she wanted to visit us, the coming was a great effort to her. Butnow that the plunge has been made I hope she finds it less alarming thanshe expected. She helps Ellen a good deal, and this keeps her occupied andmakes her less shy. 

Nearly every man has been out on the mountain today in search of mollyeggs. Only one egg is found in a nest, and yet Glass on Saturday got onehundred and sixty-two. In time, I fear, these beautiful birds will bedriven from the island. 

_Saturday, October 5_. --I spent the morning gardening and in the afternonwent to meet Graham, who with John Glass and his wife, Johnny Lavarello, Maria Green and Mary Repetto had been to the ponds. They had thoroughlyenjoyed the day, the children especially, as they had not been therebefore. All, except Graham, were laden with molly eggs stowed away intheir shirt or blouse which is sewn into a pouch for the occasion, a modeof carrying which gave them a very comical appearance. The birds are quitetame, only giving a peck when pushed off the nest. 

_Tuesday, October 8_. --We are having a week's holiday. Yesterday morning Isaid to little Ned Green, "Boys in England wash their neck, arms and chestevery day. You come one morning and Mr. Barrow will show you how to do thesame. " He turned away his head and said, "I'm skeered. " This morningbefore we were up he was waiting in the porch, and then came in and sat onthe sofa until Graham was ready for him. As it was rather a wet morningthe instructions were given indoors. I heard most lively conversationgoing on during the process. He was rewarded with a biscuit which he tookhome to his little sister. 

Idioms are little used here. I said yesterday to Ned, who was minding somegoslings, "You have got your hands full, " when I saw him look down andopen his hand. The goslings are as much trouble to raise here as turkeysare at home. They have, at first, to be watched all day long for fear oftheir getting wet, and then there is always the danger of their beingcarried away by the stream. If it rains they are often driven into thesitting-room. Geese and eggs are the women's chief contributions to trade. 

Mrs. H. Green has not been so well again. I went up today to try to gether to come to dinner. She did not want to, but I said I was not goingwithout her. This amused her and at last she got up and went to put herthings on, though she said she was so weak she could hardly walk. When Iwas sitting alone with her she told me that a few months ago something hadbeen said to her which she could not get off her mind. She has a strongsuperstition about it. The people here believe that a person has the powerto will evil to others. A man who has been to the Cape told us one eveningthat he was quite sure that the Malays had the power to make a person lameby putting something on the doorstep, and that no one could effect a cureexcept a Malay doctor. 

CHAPTER XXIII

_Wednesday, October 9_. --We were aroused from our slumbers this morning byCharlie Green hammering at the door, and on inquiry heard there was a shipin sight. It was a most beautiful day and the sea like a mill-pond. Themen said before they started they were sure the ship was a whaler; andthey were right. The people, expecting visitors, set to work to scrubtheir floors. In the course of the morning the first mate, a coloured man, landed with a mail from St. Helena. There were only three letters in it. One was from the Bishop. There seems now no prospect of his coming whilewe are here. Our men only did fairly well on the whaler, which, however, was well supplied with potatoes, having taken in a supply at St. Helenaonly seventeen days ago. The captain and his wife kindly sent us a bunchof bananas and a large tin of grape-nuts. 

_Thursday, October 10_. --This afternoon we took the Repetto girls, Mariaand Sophy, who are staying with us, for a picnic. We made for a grassyslope near Bugsby Hole, the children gathering sticks for the fire as wewent. They came upon a poor little lamb that had just been killed by asea-hen. Near it was another which a sea-hen was just pouncing upon. Theyhad been deserted by the mother, a thing which often happens here. Thechildren picked up the lamb, which could hardly have been a day old, andwe wrapped it in my jacket and gave it some warm milk. It was decided thatMary should be the happy possessor of it. As we were at tea three ratswere unearthed. One, a big fellow, sprang down close to us. There wereshrieks from the children and the tea was upset, but Rob soon caught him. 

_Friday, October 11_. --The lamb died this morning. Repetto says it wasfamished before we found it. 

_Monday, October 14_. --Quite a bitter day. Hail has been falling. SusanRepetto, who lives with her Aunt Betty Cotton, is with us this week. Shehas a wonderful crop of curly hair which, except on Sundays when hermother wets and curls it, is done up in a tight little knob. She is quickand full of fun, laughing more than any child on the island. 

_Wednesday, October 23_. --The Lavarellos are serving us this week, andinsist upon bringing each morning a small bucket of milk and a jugful atnight. We have been able to make some excellent butter, so yellow that thecows might have been feeding on buttercups, of which, however, we haveseen only one small patch. Milk puddings are our daily _régime_. There hasbeen no shortness this year. 

_Friday, October 25_. --A mollyhawk was brought in today, it weighed fourpounds and measured from tip of beak to tip of tail thirty inches, fromtip of wing to tip of wing seventy-eight, and in girth twenty. The birdcannot rise up from level ground, but must get to the edge of a cliff orhill, unless helped by the wind. 

Cricket is being much played by the boys. Ben intensely enjoys a game, andit is wonderful how he manages to hold a bat and hit. He has to lie on theground to pick up a ball. 

_Sunday, October 27_. --We went to see Betty Cotton, who is laid up with abad rheumatic attack. Reposing in a canvas chair she was holding quite a_levée_, and I think enjoyed being the centre of so much attention. 

We find the north wind rather trying; it is enervating and brings with itmuch dampness; while it prevails food does not keep well. 

_Monday, October 28_. --This has been a thoroughly wet day. The childrenthink nothing of wet and will sit the whole day in damp clothes. Umbrellasare almost useless and so I have taken to the people's way of wearing ashawl over the head. 

We went across to see Miss Cotton. Her room, which serves as sitting-roomand bedroom, looked most comfortless. To add to the discomfort therewere sixteen goslings hemmed in by boxes in a corner near the door. Ifthey were allowed out on a day like this it would kill the greater part ofthem. 

_Thursday, October 31_. --Another wet day, but people in and outnotwithstanding. It cleared up in the evening and we went for a turn onthe cliffs. The houses looked so picturesque silhouetted against a stormysky. 

_Saturday, November 2_. --One of Henry's bullocks was operated on thisafternoon with the help of five or six men. It was very wild and they haddifficulty in getting it in. They threw it by means of a rope and thentied its legs. It had something growing inside its lower lip like a wartwhich prevented its eating, and this they have removed. They havesuccessfully performed the same operation on other bullocks. 

_Monday, November 4_. --This afternoon there was a cricket match betweenthe boys and girls, the former playing left-handed. Needless to say, thegirls were beaten. The men looked on with interest and later had a gamethemselves, and very lively cricket it was. They may go off any day now toInaccessible, and are only waiting for the right wind. They generallyvisit it once or twice a year. Graham means to go with them as he isanxious to see the island. 

CHAPTER XXIV

_Tuesday, November 5_. --About five o'clock this morning a gun was fired tosignify that the men were going off to Inaccessible. Soon after Tom Rogerslooked in to say they were starting in about an hour's time. We packedinto a large tin flour, captain's biscuits, tea, coffee and sugar forGraham; Tom was taking meat, and Ellen ran down at the last moment withbread hot from the oven. They went off in three boats, cheering lustily. Ibelieve they hope to do some sealing. It depends entirely on the wind asto when they return; they might be kept a fortnight. 

_Thursday, November 7_. --I am taking school in Graham's absence, the eldergirls helping with the infants. If the scholars are tiresome or heedless Ijust make them hold out their hand, and with a slap from mine they aresoon reduced to order. When they are reading they are not allowed to liftup their eyes from their books, and now it is rarely they lose theirplace. 

_Saturday, November 9_. --The men have not yet returned. They have had verywet weather since they left, and must have had a trying time. I hope theyhave enough to eat. On the occasion of a former visit there they weredelayed so long that they ran short of food and were nearly starved. Whenat last they got back one young fellow fainted. Since then they have beencareful to take more food with them and have put one or two sheep on theisland and have sown potatoes. 

_Sunday, November_ 10. --Mrs. Green has come to stay with us again; she hasbeen lying outside in the canvas chair for seven hours and feels thebetter for it. The children are very attached to their mother, and one andanother visit her during the day. Her mother's eye at once detects abutton off or whatever is amiss. 

The services were well attended to-day, only five persons being absentmorning and afternoon. 

It is a quiet evening, but occasionally the sea sounds like a passingtrain; at other times we hear it thundering on the shore. We do not getsuch high waves, but what I call long sweeping seas. I have been takingthe meteorological observations; I hope correctly. 

_Monday, November_ ll. --When school was half over old Mrs. Rogers rushedin to say the boats were returning from Inaccessible. When I got down tothe beach they were ready to land. There was so much surf that they had towait for a favourable moment and then had to pull hard to get in beforethe next wave broke. The landing of the three took quite a time, and theyhad a good tossing while awaiting their turn. The men are very cheerfuland seem to have enjoyed themselves in spite of the wet. After the firstday they were not able to leave Salt Beach on which they landed. Thatafternoon they went round by boat to where the _Blendon Hall_ was wrecked, as they knew how anxious Graham was to see the spot. He, unfortunately, was feeling horribly sea-sick and unable to do much, but he went withthem. They picked up some copper and a piece of wood from the wreck. Thecliffs of the island are most precipitous, and from Salt Beach they canonly be scaled by holding on to the tussock grass, but the weather was toowet for them to attempt this. I am glad they could not try, for HenryGreen told me it was rather an "ugly business" at best of times. There wasno sand and they lay at night under the overturned boat on a pebbly beachsoftened by layers of tussock grass. Graham said after five nights of ithe felt quite sore. They seem to have spent more than half their timeunder the boats. One day it rained all day, and the only variety they hadwas to stand under the cliffs where the rain dripped down upon them. Another day they had some cricket, using for a ball a bit of kelp. Underthe boats they played draughts; an upturned box serving for table andboard, kelp for the black pieces, and sliced potatoes for the white. They were able to get a few petrel's eggs, but digging these out of thenest-holes was wet and muddy work. 

Each man took so much flour, potatoes and meat which he handed over to thecook. Andrew Swain and Bob Green undertook the work, the former being headcook, and Graham says the cooking was excellent; not that he was able toeat much himself for he was still feeling the effects of the sea. Thecooks were kept going most of the day. At one meal there was a great laughagainst them. As each man sipped his tea he found it nauseously salt. Thewater had been taken from the wrong bucket, the one that contained saltwater for washing up. 

On Sunday they had two services, all sitting round on the stones. Theysang every hymn and chant they could think of. 

Sam Swain left his dog on Inaccessible. It had taken to killing geese, andas he did not like to shoot it he decided to leave it there where it willbe able to get plenty of food. Poor dog, it swam after the boats when theyleft. The party tried to return on Friday, but after being out two hourshad to go back as they could make no headway owing to a north wind. 

_Thursday, November_ l4. --Yesterday, after early school, Graham andRepetto went off to the Hardies in search of some wood-pigeons' eggs. Thisis a sea-bird in spite of its land-sounding name. They had to swim to ahigh rock standing a little distance from the shore with a deep channelbetween, and to climb to the top of it. Swimming back Graham found thecurrent so strong he thought it wiser to return. They tried another wayand got across without difficulty. It was rather too early for eggs andthey only found one; but they satisfied themselves as to theidentification of the egg. 

_Saturday, November_ 16. --As we have broken the last chimney-glass of ourbest lamp, we have been going to bed early this week, and getting up atfive--a change which has the advantage of enabling us to get through morework before school, and giving much more time on baking mornings. We hopeto get a glass from a passing ship, but only three have been boarded sinceMarch, one of them being a whaler. 

[Illustration: SHEEP BEING DRIVEN HOME]

It is such a pretty sight to see the sheep being driven down the hill andseparating to the different sheep-houses. But the poor things are oftenvery harassed by the dogs, many of which are quite untrained and run themfar too fast, and will, if they can get the opportunity, catch hold ofthem. The sheep often turn obstinate and try to slip off up the hill. Someget into the wrong houses and have to be dragged out and home by theowners. These houses are generally deep in mud and filth. 

_Thursday, November_ 21. --The rats have been eating the sunflower andsweet pea seeds. I could detect the mark of their feet, and the shells ofthe seeds are lying on the top of the bed. 

I have started sketching, thinking it will interest those at home to seewhat this place is like. 

The children have come in to play a round game. Two were in last night, soI said we could not have them again to-night. Tears came into the eyes ofMartha Repetto, whereupon I relented, and four of them are now in fullswing. There is just room for us all at the table. 

The men have gone to Seal Bay, walking over the mountain. When they werethere the other day they found the so-called wild cattle in such poorcondition that they mean to try to drive them across a ravine to a placewhere there is better pasture. 

_Wednesday, November_ 27. --Repetto has just been in. He enjoys having atalk, but he generally comes with something he has either made or mendedfor us. This time he has brought a capital pastry-board made out of one ofthe cases. 

There are some very young pupils at school just now. They spend part oftheir time sleeping, and are nursed by us or by one of the elder girls. One of them is rather spoilt at home, and the discipline of having to sitstill and not talk has already done him good. The children are getting onso well. Susan Repetto, who is eight, could not write a letter of thealphabet eighteen months ago, but can now do fairly difficult dictation. Yesterday she had no mistake in it. What about the arithmetic? Ah! thereis not much improvement there. One small boy has for months been learningto add two and two together and invariably gets it wrong, though sometimeshe gets other figures right. Some of the elder girls make very goodfigures, and the greater part are writing a good hand. They write lettersdaily on their slates together with the address of the person to whom theletter is written. 

_Saturday, November_ 30. --Yesterday Repetto and Henry Green started makinga larder for us. It is being built of large blocks of soft stone and is tobe on a line with the porch. There have been many consultations over it. The difficulty is to get the wood for the roof. We shall be so thankful tohave a place to keep our food in. Up to the present we have had to keepthe milk, which is set in a large pan to cream, on a small table in thecorner of the sitting-room with the butter and eggs. 

_Tuesday, December_ 3. --A whaler in sight! We have been trying to send offour letters ever since September. The people say it is many a year sincethey have had such a bad time for ships, and Repetto says it is the worstyear since he has been on the island. 

Walter Swain, who was here last year, has landed from the whaler. Thecaptain has ordered 500 lbs. Of beef and a quantity of potatoes, but theselatter are scarce; he offers in exchange flour, soap, molasses, andcalico. 

_Wednesday, December_ 4. --We were asked to tea today to the Sam Swain's tomeet the visitor and were to choose our own hour, so we settled upon four, there being a service at five. Walter Swain has sailed all over the world;his home is at New Bedford. He is, I believe, a first-rate harpooner andmakes a good deal by his skill. He says he has already made 800 dollarsduring the year, and, of course, will make still more before he gets home. We are sending our letters by this whaler as Walter says he will verylikely be able to transfer them to a passing steamer, failing that, hewill post them at St. Helena two or three months hence. I have aboutsixteen to send off. 

We are already talking of the possible arrival of Mr. Keytel. 

A holiday in honour of the presence of the whaler has given an opportunityfor weeding the garden. In the midst of a clump of Love-in-a-mist a henhas been daily laying her eggs and now wants to sit there, but that cannotbe allowed. 

This has been a splendid day for going out to the ship. The captain, acoloured man, was very kind and most fair, in fact, he seems to have givengood measure running over. Six barrels of flour and over one hundredpounds of soap have come ashore. The men came back in a most jubilantmood, we could hear in the house their singing as they neared the shore. Mrs. Lavarello brought us some ship biscuits, of which she got a busheland a half in exchange for a goose. 

_Tuesday, December_ 10. --Our little visitor this week is Florence Swain. She had set her heart upon coming and has been asking her mother for weekswhen her turn would be. 

_Wednesday, December_ 11. --Today for the wives of Henry Green and Repetto, who have been working hard at the larder, we made up packets of grocerycontaining tea, sugar, sultanas, pepper, cheese, candles, and soap. 

_Friday, December_ 13. --Towards the end of school there was a cry of"Sail, ho!" The ship is thought to be another whaler. 

Last night I planted out nearly fifty sunflowers in one bed, so thereought to be a blaze of colour. Our wheat is coming on well. Miss Cottonhas a supper to-night for the men who have been working for her. It wasannounced by Bob Green getting on to the roof of the house and shoutingout. 

The men returned this evening from the whaler, from which they have gotmore flour and material. Repetto got some material for us; but it is poorstuff and rather expensive. 

CHAPTER XXV

_Monday, December_ l6. --Every one is busy preparing for Christmas. There'smuch blueing and starching of clothes. We were up early as we have startedhouse-cleaning. 

_Tuesday, December_ l7. --The kitchen was whitewashed before breakfast, andthe passage this afternoon. 

This time of year it is necessary to water the garden every night, theground dries so quickly. The children come and do it for us and weed andsweep. 

The larder is not altogether a success. Though it has a fair amount ofventilation it is rather stuffy. 

Here is a list of some books which were given to William on the whaler theother day: Plutarch's _Lives of Alcibiades and Coriolanus_; _Trips to theMoon_, by Lucian; _Voyagers' Tales_, by Richard Hakluyt; _Areopagitica_, by Milton; _Lives of English Poets_, _Banquet of Plato_, and the _Light ofAsia_, by Sir E. Arnold. One would hardly expect to find such books on awhaler. 

_Friday, December_ 20. --We are sitting in our "parlour, " which isbespattered with whitewash and its furniture covered with sheets andpaper, and must resign ourselves to a day or two of this mode of living, as parts of the room will most likely have to be whitewashed again. Wehope the wind will veer round to the west, so that the room may dry. Atpresent a north wind is blowing, which makes the walls oozy with damp andthe atmosphere very steamy. We get a good deal of this unpleasant wind atthis time of the year, together with heavy mists at sea. 

_Christmas Eve_. --I went up to the church and found Sam Swain and hisgirls decorating it, as last year, with willow branches and pink roses. Awreath had been made for the centre of the ceiling. 

_Christmas Day_. --This morning there were twenty-four present at the HolyCommunion. There were also services at 10:30 and 3 o'clock. 

The Repettos and little Joe spent the evening with us. 

_Thursday, December_ 26. --We have had a restful day. Little Clara Swainhad begged to come and stay with us, so today she came. At supper shebegan to shed a few tears, and wanted to go home to her mother. Later Itook her home. When she got there she was rather ashamed and hid her facein the sofa all the time half laughing. 

_New Year's Eve_. --A mild type of influenza is going the round, caught nodoubt on a whaler. In the fo'c'sle of one a man was seen wrapped up in ablanket who was perhaps suffering from it. 

I can imagine as I sit here the bells at home ringing out the old year. Iearnestly hope this coming year we may be able to do more in helping thepeople "upward. "

_New Year's Day_, 1908. --We were astir early and had service at 8:30. 

New Year's Day is made as much of as Christmas Day in that the people weartheir best clothes, keep holiday and have a special dinner. We have had anice quiet day, digging, reading and sketching. Sketching, as may readilybe imagined, is often done under difficulties. 

_Saturday, January_ 11. --The expected schooner is ever a subject ofconversation with the elders. We are beginning to feel doubtful as to itscoming. The people are very hopeful, always having the feeling that if onething does not turn up another will. 

_Sunday, January_ 12. --I was taking a stroll this afternoon and incrossing a rivulet stepped on a stone which toppled over, and I fell in. My white serge skirt, which had just been washed, was caked withmud. 

_Wednesday, January_ 15. --We have had high winds the last day or two andlast night had quite a gale, the wind coming in strong gusts all nightlong. The garden has suffered considerably. The children lament over thedestruction and go round propping up plants of their own accord. 

_Sunday, January_ 19. --We have lost our last Cape canary through moulting;he was a beautiful singer. Yesterday afternoon we went some way up themountain just above the settlement. We walked for some distance up theGoat Ridge, crossed a ravine to our left, and then got on to what iscalled the Pinnacle, where we had a view which was awe-inspiring. Therelay before us two or three yawning chasms stretching away down themountain side. I hardly liked to look at them. One was Hottentot Gulch, whose sides, here bare, there dotted with trees or ferns, went down sheera thousand or more feet. When on higher ground and looking at the expanseof ocean one realizes more than ever how we are cut off from the rest ofthe world. 

_Tuesday, January_ 21. --It is Lizzie Rogers' sixth birthday. She was veryanxious to bring a present, and went round to try to get half-a-dozeneggs. Not being able to procure these, she brought us some cooked meat forsupper. After having a game I sent her home, but she appeared again whenher mother brought the milk. I did not know till afterwards that shewanted to stay the night and that her mother had literally to drag heraway, poor little thing. She has long black eyelashes, from under whichshe looks out at one with a shy trusting look which is quite charming. 

[Illustration: OUR BATHING PLACE (LITTLE BEACH)]

We had Betty Cotton and three of her contemporaries in to tea to-day andhad quite a _recherché_ meal for them, chocolate mould and some daintylittle scones. Most of the people are out of tea, so a cup of it is atreat to them. They stayed three hours, talking chiefly of old times andshipwrecks. One of their favourite stories is of a captain who lashed hiswife and child to the rigging and then swam ashore through the breakers. But instead of remaining on the beach near the foundering ship so as to beat hand to help and rescue them he went off to the settlement five milesaway and comfortably slept through the night, leaving the islanders to dothe watching and rescuing. Our visitors always come in their best attire, and they like being invited into the inner parlour. Mrs. Martha Green wenthome and returned with a dozen and a half eggs. 

_Thursday, January_ 23. --The poor penguins that land on this shore tomoult have but a short life, for the dogs hunt them out at once. The otherday we rescued one from Rob, who was dragging it from a small cave. It ranback and Graham piled up large stones at the mouth so that no dog couldget at it. Each morning on our way to bathe we had a look at it and couldsee its white breast close to the aperture. But alas! one morning we foundthe bird gone. A boy had broken down the wall and his dog had killed thepenguin. While penguins are moulting they require no other food than thatwith which Nature has provided them in a store of oil from which they candraw. 

_Sunday, January_ 26. --The Repettos have been here this evening. They hadsome difficulty in getting in, for Rob saw them and took his stand on thedoorstep, his hair bristling; they went round to the front and he ranround the other way to meet them. They are so kind to him he ought to havebehaved better, but he does not approve of any one coming in the evening. We read aloud Mr. Peck's Diary, _Two Years in Baffin Land_ in the_Intelligencer_, and they were much interested. They like coming and weare only too pleased to see them. 

_Tuesday, January_ 28. --I think every one is now giving up all hope ofseeing the schooner. 

To-day John Glass and his wife gave a dinner to the whole island in honourof their one-year-old son. Ellen and I went. Everything was excellentlyarranged. We began with stuffed meat which was really very well cooked, then followed open berry-tarts with twisted bars across, open apple-tarts, and berry-pudding served with cream. 

Yesterday Bob Green took Graham for a long-promised outing to the Caves, aspot in the mountain just above Big Beach and about a third of the wayup to the Base. At one point, considered very dangerous because if a stepis missed there must be a deadly fall, he insisted on roping him. Wewatched them with much interest both going and returning, as theywound their way in and out. 

CHAPTER XXVI

_Thursday, January_ 30. --A small vessel has just been sighted. It looks sosmall that every one is wondering what it possibly can be. It is beingwell scanned through the telescope and is seen to be flying an Englishflag; in answer Repetto has run up ours. We have a faint hope that it maybe bringing the mail. Later we sat for a long time on the cliff watching. One of our boats went out but could not board her, for fear of beingswamped. The vessel tacked, and when it got near our boat again dropped abottle into the sea for our men. In it was a letter from the Captainsaying that he wanted some fresh meat and other things and that he wouldcome in again early to-morrow. The men think it must be a sealer. 

_Friday, January_ 31. --No vessel appeared and we think it may have gonefor good. 

_Saturday, February_ 1. --Early this morning the small vessel was againseen in the far distance and some hours later a boat from it landed theCaptain's brother and two of the crew. The two latter were brought to usat the school. As they spoke only French the islanders did not know whatelse to do with them. I tried to carry on a conversation with them andlearnt they were going to Kerguelen Island for sealing. They wanted toknow if it was not rather "ennuyeux" here. The Captain's brother went toRepetto to arrange business and was afterwards brought to us. Meanwhileanother vessel had been sighted and the men drew lots who should go out toit. Monsieur Rallier du Baty stayed and had lunch with us. He was such apleasant gentlemanly man and most easy to talk to. I never talked so muchFrench to any one before. Sometimes I got grounded. I understood him tosay that his ship was being sent out by the French Government to Kerguelenfor scientific research, that they intend staying there a year, and thatthey also hope to do some sealing. They had named their boat the _J. B. Charcot_, after Dr. Charcot, with whom one of them had been on anAntarctic expedition. Graham asked him about two meteorologicalinstruments which he has not been quite sure how to set, and he has verykindly showed him how to set them. M. Rallier told us after they leftCherbourg they met with very bad weather and had to put in to Brixham forrepairs, by which they were delayed three weeks. From there they went onto Madeira, then to Rio Janeiro, and next touched here. He was muchinterested to know what had brought us to Tristan. He knew about the wreckof the _Blendon Hall_ and had passed close to Inaccessible to view thescene of the wreck. 

Our men boarded the other ship sighted, which proved to be a Norwegian onebound for Adelaide. 

_Monday, February_ 3. --On Saturday evening Repetto came in with somethings which the French captain had very kindly sent us--potted meat, atin of butter, jam which he specially sent word was from England, and alsocarrot, leek and onion seeds, which are particularly acceptable. 

A ship was seen to-day, but the men did not go out. It came close in and Ithink the men were sorry afterwards they had not gone to it. 

_Friday, February_ 7. --Yesterday Graham and Alfred began to cut the corn, and to-day, taking a holiday, finished it. I bound the sheaves and stoodthem up in shocks. 

Part of the morning I spent in butter-making. I found the best method wasto work with the churn standing in the stream, and after the butter cameand was washed to leave it standing there. The result was very firm, goodbutter. As a rule Ellen does the churning. 

This afternoon was given to threshing wheat and a very slow process itwas. A sail was spread in the field and I and the older boys tried tobeat and rub the wheat out. In olden days the people threshed in theirsitting-rooms. We also did a little winnowing, throwing the wheat up forthe wind to blow the chaff away. I should think all our efforts did notproduce more than a quarter of a bushel. 

Just now the men are busy digging potatoes. They are finding a good dealof disease in them, but probably will have enough to last through theseason, as they always sow more than they require. 

_Sunday, February_ 9. --The other day at school a short piece from Mr. Peck's journal was read to the children, who were told to write out whatthey could remember of it. One little girl of nine began, "Mr. Peck livein a bag. " The fur bag that he slept in interested them far more thananything else. The Sunday class of girls is very well attended, no girlstaying away unless ill. It is difficult to get replies from some of them, but there are one or two who give very intelligent answers. 

_Tuesday, February_ 11. --It is a thick misty day, but a ship is coming in. The men have had such a rush to get off, some having run all the way fromthe Potato patches and arriving on the beach in a great state of heat. Ina few minutes others appeared just as the second boat was going off, oneso breathless he could not speak. But after all their efforts they failedto reach the ship, which kept too far out. 

_Wednesday, February_ 12. --Last Saturday all the school-children wereturned into the wheat-field to help to thresh the wheat. Flails had beenmade by tying pieces of wood to cricket stumps. The boys beat the sheaveswith great energy, especially the younger ones. Graham and I have spentour whole afternoon in threshing and he is now winnowing by moonlight. 

_Monday, February_ 17. --On Friday afternoon with the girls' help wefinished threshing the wheat and the next day winnowed it. 

_Tuesday, February_ 18. --Mrs. Andrew Swain brought us this evening a fewapples and four peaches. These are the first peaches we have seen; theyare green, but will soon ripen. Her husband brought about half a bushelhome, but the trees rarely bear; probably they are too old. 

We had seriously thought this week of camping out near the ponds. For atent we should have taken an old sail. The weather, however, has become sounsettled we have given up the idea. 

_Thursday, February_ 20. --Graham ground a little wheat yesterday betweentwo stones and I made a loaf of it, which he says is the best brown breadhe has ever tasted. 

We have just been taking a turn in the dusk, and on the way called at theRepettos' to find out the name of the owners of the _Greta Holme_, thesteamer which has been here more than once. We think we may perhaps get itto call for us to take us home. 

_Monday, February_ 24. --It is such a quiet evening, the lamps are lit andthe windows are wide open and we can plainly hear the gurgling of thestream outside. 

On Saturday Charlie Green came in to say that he and his mother wish to goback to their house. It is the one in which we hold church and school. After hearing what he had to say we told him to ask his mother to come andsee us to-day, which she has done. She feels she must go back to her houseand would like to move into it this week, and we feel we cannot sayanything against it, for this is the fourth time she has given it up forthe same purpose. 

_Wednesday, February_ 26. --A meeting took place this morning at 7. 30 toconsider where church and school are now to be held. Lavarello firstoffered for his mother-in-law, Mary Glass, her room for school. Thenfollowed a discussion as to where service should be held. Finally Repettosaid they would be willing to give up their house entirely for church andschool, they themselves living in the adjoining cottage, if they could puttwo of the girls out to sleep. It was agreed that if this could bearranged the school should be there. 

We offered to Mrs. Repetto to take her two elder girls, but she hadarranged for them to go to her mother. It is a sacrifice to the Repettosto give up their house, for they take real pride in it and they go out atgreat personal inconvenience, for they will have to live in two smallrooms, one of which is his workshop. She spoke very nicely about it, saying they were doing it for God. She also spoke warmly of the Sundayservices and said she could not think how any one could sit in church andnot be touched by them. Nothing but illness keeps her away. 

At the meeting the men agreed to build a church, and spoke of beginningit when the potato digging is over. They will put up the stonework andleave the roof till the next clergyman comes, and say they will put nofire-place in it and then no one can use it as a house. As there is nohouse for school we are having a holiday. We went yesterday to pack up theschool things and found the men already at work putting up the partitions. Mrs. Green will benefit by the new window-panes and we are glad sheshould. We have enough left for the rooms into which the Repettos aregoing. 

[Illustration: THE OLD CHURCH HOUSE]

_Friday, February_ 28. --Men are working at Repetto's house to turn it intothe school-chapel. This house is really the church of the island, as itshistory shows. It was built by a man named William Daley for himself. WhenMr. Taylor the clergyman came it was bought for his church. It was valuedat twenty-seven pounds, and nine men each gave three pounds. The nine wereCorporal Glass, Alexander Cotton, Thomas Hill Swain, Peter Green, RichardRiley, Andrew Hagan, Charles Taylor, Peter Mellor(?), and William Daley, the owner. When Mr. Taylor left he told the people who remained theycould do what they liked with the church. Thereupon the nine buyers ortheir representatives each claimed a three-pound share in it. The claim tothese shares has been handed down. Miss Cotton claims one from her father, Martha Green one from her husband, the mother of Sam Swain, senior, one. But Matilda Hagan, the daughter of Peter Green, is said to claim the most. 

Repetto's workshop has been cleaned out, floored, and whitewashed, andlooks quite nice. The ceiling is very low, so I have exhorted them to havetheir bedroom window open at night as she feels the need of air since herheart-attacks. He has just brought in a large bureau made by himself andwhich he has asked us to house. Our room is already packed, but we havebeen able to find a place for it by turning out a table which will beuseful at school. 

_Saturday, February_ 29. --To-day all the men, with the exception of three, went off to Inaccessible for sealing. We are now having beautiful weather. 

_Tuesday, March_ 3. --To-day a ship was in sight and we were regrettingthere was no boat to go out to her, all four having been taken toInaccessible. But presently we heard that two boats from Inaccessiblewere to be seen in the distance. These got alongside the ship, which wasan Italian one, but the captain would not stop. All the men have nowreturned. They secured eleven seals and think they could have got more, but were afraid to stay longer for fear of missing ships. They broughtsome plants back. 

_Ash-Wednesday, March_ 4. --All the men and a good many women went offto-day in three boats to Sandy Point to gather apples and are spending thenight there. 

Caroline Swain came to tea. 

_Thursday, March_ 5. --We have begun daily service and hope to continue itas long as we are here. 

It was too breezy for the boats to come back to-day, so most of the peoplehave walked home. It is quite a ten miles' walk, a part of it over greatboulders along the shore and a part over Big Point, where there is an uglybit of climbing to be done. It took them about seven hours. Mrs. Repettosays it is the last time _she_ shall do it. 

With daily service at 9 o'clock it is rather a rush, and this morning Ihad baking on hand; the dough had risen so that it had poured over the tinlike so much froth and I had to gather it up and re-knead it. I had tostart baking it before church and when I got back the fire was nearly out. 

_Tuesday, March_ 10. --About midday a big ship appeared on the horizonopposite the settlement. The men started out and seemed confident ofreaching her, though at times she could not be seen. They have not yetreturned, though it is nearly 8 o'clock. It is always so interesting tohear how they have fared, and, of course, it is the one excitement andvariety in the life here. 

8. 45. --We have just heard the whistle of the returning boats, and, asusual, the dogs have started barking. 

_Wednesday, March_ 11. --The ship was a Scotch one bound for Australia andhad come out from London in forty-one days. The captain seemed a kind manand allowed the men several hours on board. He sent Graham two books, Milton's poems was one, and asked him to write to him, which, of course, he will do. 

_Thursday, March_ 12. --We are having a spell of wet weather. It isdifficult to keep dryshod going backwards and forwards to school. The newschool-house is a little nearer than the old, but there is no track andthe long bents in the grass are very wetting. Happily we are not short ofboots and shoes. 

We went this afternoon for a short walk and passed a rock the shape of anarm-chair, and called Glass's arm-chair. When he was old the Corporal usedto find his way to this seat, which overlooks Big Beach and commands agood view of the sea. 

A few weeks ago we put on our clocks an hour, thinking to get an extrahour of daylight, but we find the plan does not answer and have had to putthem back again. The people got up no earlier and the result was that someof the boys and girls came to school without any breakfast. 

_Wednesday, March_ l8. --This afternoon Graham went for a nine miles' walkwith Arthur Repetto and came across two donkeys that had been tethered atthe Bluff since yesterday morning and had nothing to eat. One could onlymove a foot or two, the rope having got wound round its leg. They movedthem to fresh ground, but could find no water to give them. The riders hadwalked over to Seal Bay. A boat went there two days ago for feathers andoil, but has not been able to return for want of the right wind. 

_Thursday, March_ 19. --The Greens sent us some beautiful large apples fromtheir orchard at the Bay. All the apples are a better size this year owingto having been picked a month later. 

CHAPTER XXVII

_Thursday, March_ 26. --The event of events has happened, the _Greyhound_has come. It was first seen when we were in church on Sunday morning. Twoboats went out to her and in the afternoon returned with Mr. Keytel, seventeen persons from the Cape, and the mail. Hearing Mr. Keytel hadlanded Graham and I sallied forth to greet him. He was looking verycheerful and well, and was accompanied by two large dogs. The mail-bagswere soon brought to the house. But Mr. Keytel said before anything wasdone he must show us the photographs which he took when here last year. Welooked at them with the greatest interest and thought them excellent. Wethen went to service, and after it, came back and opened the mail in acrowded room. It was a large mail and took some time to dispose of. Mr. Keytel had much to tell us. He had had great difficulties to contend with, as everything seemed against his coming. 

Now a few words about the people he has brought with him. Three of them, Joe Glass, Bob Glass and Jim Hagan, were born on the island and left it asyoung men about fifteen years ago. In South Africa they married threewhite women, sisters. With their wives and children they number sixteen. The seventeenth, a young unmarried man named Joe Hagan, was also bornhere. I do not think the greater part of the islanders are particularlypleased at this invasion. 

[Illustration: LANDING GOODS]

On Monday the boats made several journeys to the schooner and got onwell with the unloading. Nothing more is to be done until Mr. Keytelhas visited Gough Island. He expects to be away about a fortnight. OnTuesday morning the schooner came in well, and all were on the shoreready to embark for Gough Island, which is about two hundred miles to thesouth-east. Mr. Keytel was keen upon Graham going, and as nearly all ourmen are going and he may not have such an opportunity again he decided toaccept his kind offer and go. By the time the boats were launched theschooner began to move further out, the sea waking up a little. Beforelong she was lost to sight and after a vain chase the three boats cameback. It was most trying for Mr. Keytel, for every day lost is aconsideration to him. 

The Repettos are very much upset because some of the new-comers are tryingto take their house. Yesterday just before embarking two of themthreateningly said they meant to have it, and one took off his coat tofight Repetto. This is the house whose ownership is disputed, severalpeople claiming shares in it, the mother of the young man who wanted tofight claiming the most. She used to live in it and when she left theisland begged the Repettos to leave the one in which they were living andto go into hers and take care of it for her. The young man has notproduced any letter or paper from his mother to the effect that she wishesthe Repettos to give up occupation. We have told the Repettos they neednot be afraid and that if they do not retaliate Graham and Mr. Keytel willstand by them and see that right is done. 

_Friday, March_ 27. --The winds are still against the schooner putting in. 

One of the Bob Glass children has been seriously ill and delirious, theresult it is thought of a fall or a sunstroke. I went to see it andadvised a dose of castor-oil. Going again in the afternoon I found thechild up and standing outside the front door, apparently well. The motherhad been up all night and quite thought she was going to lose him. 

_Saturday, March_ 28. --To-day matters came to a climax about the Repettos'house. The two men started taking possession by mending a hole in theroof. Ellen pointed them out to me as we were coming home from church. Ithought I had better go back and let Graham know what they were doing. Hewent out at once and asked them if they had Repetto's leave to do thework. They said, "No. " "Then, " said Graham, "I cannot let you do it. "Meanwhile as I passed the door Repetto said he had something he wanted toshow me, would I come in. I could see they were both very upset. Soon JohnGlass, who had been helping the men on the roof, came in looking, Ithought, a little ashamed. I told him he had made a mistake in havinganything to do with the business, and said, "How would you like it if someone were to come and work on your roof without asking you first?" He saidhe would not like it. I told him the best thing he could do was to go homeand have nothing more to do with it, and he went. Then his brother, JoeGlass, who was really the instigator of it all, came and looked over thedoor. I gave him, too, a piece of my mind, and after a time he went away. Presently the young man appeared looking very menacing. He walked up tohis cousin, Mrs. Repetto, showing his fists. I was dreadfully afraid shemight lose her temper and strike him, and then I do not know what mighthave happened. I rushed off for Graham, who was taking school, and he cameat once. He told the young man if he could satisfy him that he had hismother's authority to take the house he should have it, after the Repettoshad been given a reasonable time to find another. If he could not sosatisfy him then the Repettos would remain in possession. He went on tosay he was here as a clergyman with the knowledge and consent of theGovernment; that it was his duty to do his best to prevent any breach ofthe peace and that he intended to do so. He would see that justice wasdone just as a magistrate would. He warned him and all that if there wereany further disturbance those causing it would run the risk of being sentfrom the island, for he should report the whole matter to the Government. Things now began to calm down and Graham went back to school. Poor Mrs. Repetto had quite broken down, and at sight of her it was as much as herhusband could do to keep his temper. But they spoke very nicely to theyoung man and said if he had a paper from his mother saying he was to havethe house, of course they would give it up; and if he liked they wouldgive up their bedroom to him in any case. Then Repetto went outside withhim and said he wanted to be his friend, not his enemy. Finally the youngman came back and said he was very sorry for the way he had behaved andthat they should hear no more about the house, and went up and kissed Mrs. Repetto and her mother. Then he shook hands with me and said how sorry hewas and that there should be no more trouble. The Repettos said to meafterwards we have never seen anything like this before on the island, asking for forgiveness as he did. If there had been any angry words in thefirst instance from them there would no doubt have been a fight. 

_Tuesday, March_ 3l. --The men have all been busy to-day roofing a smallempty one-roomed house for Joe Glass which Andrew Hagan is said to havesold him for £10. 

This afternoon Graham and Mr. Keytel have been looking at a small disusedhouse near here which Henry Green uses as a lamb-house, and which Mr. Keytel thinks will do for him if Henry will let him have it. Till a houseis ready for him he will, I hope, remain with us. 

The schooner, which has been out a week, has not yet been seen. 

_Wednesday, April_ 1. --She has been sighted this afternoon. A day or twoago there was a gale, which probably blew her a long way out. The poorcaptain must be having rather a bad time. 

_Thursday, April_ 2. --She came in to-day and Mr. Keytel has started forGough Island. Several of the men did not want to go, pleading colds as anexcuse. Mr. Keytel had to go round and work them up, and they finally allwent except John Glass. It has taken us a long time to really know thepeople. They are very pleasant and kind, but everything is not as itappears on the surface. 

_Friday, April_ 3. --This has been a most beautiful day. It seemed a pitynot to make the most of it, so we decided to go westward, taking a donkey. The Repettos said we might have theirs, but as it took Arthur four hoursto catch it we did not get off till noon. We were glad to lunch under theshadow of a rock, for it was really hot. Then we went for another mile ortwo, tethered the donkey, and rested. After brewing some tea we startedfor home just as the sun was setting in a cloudless sky. We mean to go onsuch expeditions every now and then, as they freshen us up for the dailyround. 

_Saturday, April_ 4. --Last night Glass came to say that old Caroline, hisaunt, was much worse and to ask if Graham would go and read to her. Grahamfound her very ill, but conscious and able to understand what was said. Hetold Glass to come again in the night if necessary. About 11 o'clock hecame again to tell us Caroline was dying. Graham hurried up and wentacross, but she had passed away. That evening she had asked Mrs. Lavarelloto read to her her favourite hymn, "How sweet the name of Jesus sounds ina believer's ear. "

It was thought necessary to have the funeral to-day, to-morrow beingSunday. Graham helped Glass as much as he could in making the coffin. Thegreat difficulty was to find wood for it; the lid was made of fourteenpieces. Graham lined the coffin and I painted the name, age and date onit. The two elder boys, Alfred and William, worked at the grave, and verywell they did it. Alfred was not really up to the work, having been ill, but he would not give in. Graham and Glass finished the digging. Mrs. BobGlass has been quite a stand-by for the women. The funeral was at fouro'clock. Glass and the three boys were the bearers, and managed very well. As usual, a British flag was used as a pall, which especially became adaughter of one of Nelson's sailors. Almost every one was present and wasdressed in black. At the close of the service her favourite hymn was sung. There were four wreaths placed on the grave. The tiny cemetery, borderedby big blocks of stone and the people grouped inside between thegravestones, presented a striking picture against the distant sea andsetting sun. I felt so thankful that Graham and Glass had not gone toGough Island. The latter stayed because his aunt was ill, but no onethought of her being so near the end. An influenza cold was no doubt theimmediate cause of her death. She was seventy-nine, but looked more likeninety. 

_Sunday, April_ 5. --We had not many at the morning service, and those whowere there had such bad colds it was as much as we could do to get throughthe hymns. I had only two girls at the class instead of seven. 

I went to see Eliza Hagan, a sister of Caroline Swain, and for once foundher alone. She has now two step-sons and their families living in herhouse. 

_Monday, April_ 6. --This evening Fred Swain came in to say his little babybrother had scalded his foot and to ask for something to put on it. Ithought I had better go and see it. It was not an easy matter to dress thechild's foot, for he kicked vigorously all the time, more, I think, fromfright than pain, for he stopped directly it was bound up. 

_Wednesday, April_ 8. --We entered on our third year to-day. Graham hasstarted afternoon school from two to half-past three. A late school doesnot answer, as the boys have to fetch their cows home and often have along distance to go for them. 

_Thursday, April_ 9. --All our spare time is taken up in answering letters. We are having a spell of wet weather and I fear the new-comers are feelinga little depressed, but I dare say they will cheer up when the schoonerreturns. 

_Friday, April_ 10. --We have been opening two good-sized parcels from Mrs. J--- of Bulford Camp. It contains such useful things, pinafores, crossovers, haberdashery, writing-paper, pencils and pens. 

_Saturday morning, April_ 11. --A ship has been sighted to the westward; wethink it may be the schooner, which has been away ten days. 

_Evening_. --We were right, it was the schooner; the three boats landedthis afternoon. We went to meet them and thought the men looked verydejected. It seems they never reached their destination. They met withvery bad weather and never sighted Gough Island. From what we have heardsince we feel sure the captain never intended they should. We are sorryfor Mr. Keytel, for so far things have not been very propitious, but hopethat with a bad beginning may come a good ending. He has not come ashore, but will stay on the ship till all the business is done. 

We are very sorry to hear that there has been a great deal of thieving onboard, and we fear the newcomers are involved in it. One man says thatevery case of ours has been opened. It remains to be seen how far this istrue. Another says he saw quite enough on the trip to Gough Island. Parcels for the people are missing, and one addressed to us by MissM---- containing things for some of the people has been opened and a largepiece of bed-ticking taken out. 

_Monday, April_ l3. --To-day the schooner came in, but the men said it wastoo rough to go out. Some, I think, did not want to, so no business wasdone. 

Our cases were brought up from the beach; the greater part of them havebeen opened and fastened up again, but as far as we can see but little hasbeen abstracted. The men who brought them up enjoyed unpacking some ofthem for us, and were most interested in discussing how a large ironsaucepan cracked in three places could be mended. 

Graham is laid up with a bad pain in his chest and back, and can hardlysleep for it at night. 

_Tuesday, April_ l4. --A wet and misty day, and the schooner not seen. 

I went up to see Alfred Green, who is very poorly with a bad cough and apain in his side. I put on a mustard-leaf. He is such a steady youngfellow and sets a good example both in and out of school. 

_Wednesday, April_ 15. --I persuaded Graham to remain indoors to-day. I hada busy morning. First, I went out and took the readings of thethermometers, then soon after nine went up to church to read the dailyservice. From there I went to the Andrew Swains' to dress the baby'sscalded foot. He cried more lustily than ever, but this will be the lastdressing that will be necessary, the wound having healed beautifully. Ithen retraced my steps to the Henry Greens' to inquire after Alfred, whois a little better. His mother thought another mustard-leaf would do himgood, so I came home for it and before long took it up and put it on. 

_Thursday, April_ 16. --No unloading has been done since Saturday. 

I had to administer a caning to little Charlie this morning. William toldme he was constantly cruel to his dog by beating it for no reason. We hadoften heard the dog crying out. I believe the mother was not overpleasedat the chastisement, but Graham always comes down upon the boys if hehears of any cruelty. 

_Good Friday_. --I took both services to-day. 

_Saturday, April_ 18. --The schooner came in to-day and has been unloading. Mr. Keytel is shipping for the Cape two hundred sheep, which he expects toput on board to-morrow. We are sorry it has to be done on Sunday. As theschooner will probably leave the same day we are finishing our lettersto-night. 

We have been much interested to hear about the snails sent to Cambridge. In acknowledging their receipt the Professor writes: "The conical ones areno doubt _Siphonaria Lessoni_, a species found all round the south end ofSouth America; and the 'scaly' one is _Magellanic Chiton_. " And again:"You will note the connection with _Magellanica_. The _Magellanica_ isevidently the typical circumpolar fauna; and even Kerguelen Island is muchmore akin to Magellanica than to Africa or New Zealand. I should expectTristan to be the same, though it has a distinctly European element inBalea. "

CHAPTER XXVIII

_Easter Sunday_. --Very few elders were at either morning or afternoonservice, only two or three of the regular ones. Graham was not able to getout, but is improving. 

The men were occupied in getting the sheep down to the shore, but in theend were not able to put off, for heavy rain came on and the sea grewrough; one boat started, but had to come back. 

_Monday, April_ 20. --No business could be done with the ship to-day; ithad been blown eastward. The weather has been bad and there have beenheavy rain-storms. 

One of Mr. Keytel's dogs, a well-bred pointer, has taken up his abode withus while his master is on the ship. We dare not leave him for an instantin the room by himself if there is any food on the table. The othermorning he ate our breakfast of bacon, which had been prepared as anespecial delicacy. 

_Tuesday, April_ 21. --Another stormy day, and nothing seen of theschooner. 

This afternoon school began again; Ellen is helping me with the infants. Nearly all the children attended. 

_Wednesday, April_ 22. --There was a very small school, for many boys wereaway helping to collect the sheep for the schooner, which was coming in, and some were playing truant. The sheep were carted down to the shore andthe men were ready for embarking, when the ship moved out, and so alltheir labour was again in vain. The sea was "making up, " and to-night isstormy. It is rather late in the year for a sailing-ship to do business. 

_Thursday, April_ 23. --A roughish sea. No sign of the schooner. 

I had some trouble in school to-day with one of the new scholars, a boy ofeleven. He thinks he can come to school late, not learn his lessons, anddo just as he pleases. I had to cane him. He fought all the time, but atlast subsided and meekly went back to his place. I felt breathless, and Iam sure the children were breathless with surprise at such behaviour. Ihad a talk with him afterwards when he stayed behind to learn his lessons. I think that, after his Cape school, he rather looks down upon a littleschool like this. It is remarkable how well he and his younger brotherhave been taught to read. 

_Friday, April_ 24. --A fairly rough sea and no sign of the schooner. 

I have spent the afternoon writing, at Graham's dictation, his yearlyreport to the Colonial Office; to-morrow I hope we may finish it. 

_Saturday, April_ 25. --No appearance of the schooner. The wind is risingto-night. 

_Sunday, April_ 26. --There were better congregations to-day, with asprinkling of men. 

No schooner. 

_Monday, April_ 27. --Our eyes have scanned the horizon in vain, but I feelsure we shall see the schooner to-morrow. Graham has quite made up hismind that we cannot go home by it next year. It has no accommodation forpassengers beyond the hold. 

_Tuesday, April_ 28. --The people had become somewhat anxious about theschooner's non-appearance, but to-day it appeared on the horizon. It wastoo rough, however, for any business to be done, though one boat went outwith the mail. It is a rough night again. 

_Wednesday, April_ 29. --Too wet and stormy for either church or school. 

In one of our letters we were asked what is our daily menu, so I give ithere. Breakfast: milk-coffee, bread and butter, and a boiled egg when inseason, varied with grape-nuts, porridge, or occasionally fish. Dinner:mutton, either hot, cold, or curried. About five days a week milkpuddings, sometimes served with stewed dried fruit. Supper: tea, bread andbutter, cold meat or fish. Fish is rather an uncertainty, but when it doescome it is fresh. The people always bring it scaled and cleaned. 

_Thursday, April_ 30. --Nothing has been seen of the schooner to-day. 

_Friday, May_ 1. --I am taking school for a short time each morning just tokeep the children up in reading and writing. I also give them Bibleinstruction and hear their lessons. 

We have again an invasion of mice or small rats. A day or two ago one wasfound drowned in the milk-pan, this morning a second in the water-pail, and a third in the milk-jug. A great many have been caught in the loft, and occasionally we see them in the sitting-room popping in and out ofholes when all is quiet. 

_Saturday, May_ 2. --The schooner was sighted this morning, but there wasnot enough breeze to bring her in. 

_Sunday, May_ 3. --This morning we were awakened by a loud shouting. It wasone of the men arousing the settlement. The sheep had to be driven in andtaken down for embarkation. 

_Tuesday, May_ 5. --The schooner will probably leave for good to-day. Theonly thing that now remains to be done is to take a few more sheep onboard and barrels of water for them. The crew are to look after the sheepand every day will have to give each one a bottleful of water. Mr. Keytelsays that the poor sheep have been very roughly handled, and even, insome cases, have had their horns broken. He came in early this morningwith Bob Glass, who, I thought, looked rather uncomfortable when we talkedabout the things that have been stolen. One of these, we very much fear, is the bale of calico from Carlisle, which would have been such a boon tothe people. We have been told it has been seen on board since the ship hasbeen here, and I believe it is on the island. We feel sure our Tristaniteshave nothing to do with its disappearance. We fear we have also lost oneor two small parcels from the Cape. The Henry Greens have lost a boxcontaining clothing, groceries, and a good clock which they had sent tothe Cape to be mended. 

9. 15 p. M. --The schooner is off at last; and, really, we are glad, forevery one will be able to settle down to ordinary life again. 

_Thursday, May_ 7. --Ellen and I spent the morning in cutting up material, and making up parcels to send round to each family. We wish the peoplewould show a little more gratitude. I think they are pleased, but they donot show it in the least. There was only one who showed gratitude, and shesent a thousand thanks and said how useful the materials would be, for shehad just made up her mind to cut up some of her own and her husband'sclothes to make shirts for the boys. The people had nearly all run out ofsewing-cotton, so the supply just sent by friends has come in mostusefully. I have been able to give two reels to each family and to keepsome in reserve. This time we divided the material ourselves, because wewished it to go to those who needed it most. 

The men are working at Henry Green's lamb-house to turn it into aresidence for Mr. Keytel. They are rebuilding the west wall, laying down afloor, and putting on a zinc roof. 

_Saturday, May_ 9. --Graham and Mr. Keytel are having a game of chess. Theformer is much better than he was, but has still to lead an invalid life. Some nights he gets but little sleep on account of rain, and has to paceup and down a good deal. 

Our fine weather has broken, and to-day we have had heavy rain and athunderstorm. 

_Monday, May_ ll. --Yesterday I had again to take the two services. I feltrather alarmed in the morning, for Mr. Keytel was present. The church wasfull each time. I began school again to-day after a week's holiday. It israther a business, taking the whole school in hand; and teaching is notmuch in my line. This morning David Hagan began to roar because I took himfrom his sister's lap and put him with his class. He would not stop, so Iwas obliged to put him in the vestry, where he continued roaring andoccasionally uttered threats. During it all I had to go on hearinglessons. At last he stopped, so I brought him out and put him again withthe infants, and had no more trouble with him. I give the class easymental arithmetic, which is much less trouble than putting down figures. 

_Saturday, May_ 16. --To-day it was warm, without wind, and Graham went outfor the first time. He has made a great advance in the last two or threedays. We made our way up to Mr. Keytel's house. The work goes on slowly, as the men are uncertain and turn up when they like. Henry Green andRepetto are the two reliable ones. Mr. Keytel is rather disappointed inthe men; he thought they would have done what they could for him, as he istrying to work up a trade. He says he has already lost two or threehundred pounds. He does not, however, seem disheartened. I think the housewill look very well when finished. It consists of two rooms. Round each, six inches from the wall, he has put on a framework of wood canvas, whichwill be painted white. This will both keep out the damp and make the roomlighter. 

_Tuesday, May_ 19. --It is difficult to find time for writing in theevening now, as we talk so much. We generally end up with a game ofTiddley Winks. Ellen and I usually get beaten; the two men want us tochange partners, but I will not. 

To-day Graham came in at the end of school. Every one seems unfeignedlypleased to see him out again. 

We wish Tristan could be what it was before the new-comers came. Mr. Keytel has been opening some of his cases, and from the first two findshatchets and rugs missing. Graham intends to give those whom it concerns apiece of his mind when he is well. 

[Illustration: MRS. REPETTO FISHING]

_Wednesday, May_ 20. --Graham was able to take service, but did not stayfor school. He came for me after school, and we walked down to the shoreand watched Mrs. Repetto catching craw-fish. She got her skirt and feetvery wet in the process. I was amused the other night by Mr. Keytel sayingto Graham, "You had better wait one more Sunday before taking the service, Mrs. Barrow gives us good teaching. "

_Thursday, May_ 2l. --I spent the afternoon doctoring the poultry. To mysurprise every hen and chicken I caught had "pip, " a horny substance underthe tongue and rather hard to get off. I operated on nearly thirty. Thefowls are rather a trouble, from their habit of getting into all sorts ofimpossible places. The other day I found a hen on the pillow and herchickens on the dressing-table and window-sill. 

_Tuesday, May_ 26. --Mr. Keytel took a sample of the white mould to theCape to be examined by an expert, who said it was due to the ground notbeing worked, and recommended its being brought to the surface, where thesun and air will get rid of it. 

_Friday, May_ 29. --Mr. Keytel slept in his house last night for the firsttime, and to-morrow intends moving in. He had no glass for the windows, but happily we had some to spare. Much to his amusement, he had entirelyforgotten to bring plates, spoons and forks and a teapot, and again wewere able to come to the rescue with a heterogeneous collection. 

The two-year-old infant I punished the other day says "he shan't come toschool any more because he's mad with 'old mumma. '" This same infantprodigy generally carries about with him an old pipe. One day when on avisit to his uncle he asked for some tobacco. The uncle said he had none. On returning home he told his mother what his uncle had said, andadded, "I knew it was a lie. "

CHAPTER XXIX

_Monday, June_ 1. --We are to have a Christmas tree. It will be the firstthat has been seen on the island. Various friends have sent us toys, pinafores, pens, pencils and coloured candles, so we shall not lack thingsto dress it with; and Mr. Keytel is kindly providing sweets, for which weare already busy making muslin bags out of patterns. He and Repetto aregoing up the mountain to choose a straight bushy tree. 

_Saturday, June_ 6. --Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday were devoted topreparations for the Christmas tree. Monday to making fifty sweet-bags andfilling them; Tuesday to wiring about a hundred candles and apportioningthe toys; and Wednesday to going over all the toys again to check anymistake. Every child will have three or four, and sweets in addition. Allthe morning of Thursday Mr. Keytel, Repetto, Ellen and I were decoratingthe tree. In the afternoon the rain came down in torrents, and towardsfive o'clock, the time fixed for the Christmas tree, it came on again. Mr. Keytel came in to see what was going to be done. We were in two mindswhether to have it, but as a little later it cleared somewhat we decidedto go on, and were glad we did, for we found every one was dressed andready. The children sat at the west end and the elders on forms round theroom. We lighted the candles after every one was seated, and the treelooked quite brilliant. The distribution took a long time, but I thinkthis increased the people's enjoyment. There was a bran-pie for the eldersto dip into, which was carried round several times; the little packets oftobacco in it were much sought after by the men. 

Most of the people being present, Graham thought it was a favourableopportunity for saying a few words about what was in every one's mind, namely, the thefts that had taken place on board the schooner. He said hewas quite sure those present had had nothing to do with them. He could notsay they were always honest in their dealings with one another, but he wasquite sure they would not take anything of ours; and he remembered thatwhen Willie Swain and Charlie Green came in the schooner the year before, nothing of the kind had happened. The people seemed pleased that Grahamhad spoken. 

_Wednesday, June_ 10. --Yesterday began again the Women's Meeting, whichhad been discontinued some months. I read to them from a Malvern paper anaccount of the Tristan exhibits at Poolbrook and what the judges saidabout their knitting, which much gratified them. 

_Monday, June_ 15. --Graham and I have begun playing chess in the evening. 

The people are delighted to have some one at hand with whom they cantrade. Mr. Keytel is visited at all hours of the day. He has just beengiving sweets round to the children. Repetto is constantly with him, andhas been a great help in making the doors, window-frames, and otherwoodwork for his house. But Mr. Keytel has carefully to superviseeverything. He was thought very particular, as he would have everythingexact and in the right line. The tendency here is for house-carpenteringto be somewhat slapdash. At the same time Repetto, whose nickname is"Chips, " and Tom Rogers can do some very neat work. A table, a sofa, achest and a stool made by one or other of them will bear comparison withanything of the kind we have seen elsewhere. 

Mr. Keytel's dog "Scotty" visits us constantly, putting his nose over thefront door and getting in when he can. He and Rob are good friends andhave great games together. 

_Wednesday, June_ l7. --Spent nearly three hours in the loft stock-taking. We had often to creep about with bent backs because of the beams, and totread with care, as the boards in places are not very strong. The resultof our work is very satisfactory; we have stores enough to last us tillnext spring. Tea is the only thing we may run short of. 

_Thursday, June_ l8. --After tea we went down to the sea-shore, where wefound Mr. Keytel fishing. He gave Graham a lesson, who actually succeededin catching some fish. When we went down there was a most glorious sunset, but by the time we returned it was almost dark. Mr. Keytel hopes to starta good trade in dried fish. It will keep the women busy, for they willhave to clean and salt them. One obstacle, however, is the green-fly, which answers to our blue-bottle, and which will have to be dealt with. 

_Saturday, June_ 20. --I ordered some cod-liver oil from the Cape, and amnow finding it useful. Rose Swain, who has had a long-standing cough, comes every day after dinner for a dose. It has cured her, and now I haveanother patient, a dear little curly-headed boy of two, Lizzie Rogers'brother and one of our scholars. He, too, has been ailing some time with acough. To-day, as it was damp underfoot, his brother Arthur brought him onhis back, a fairly heavy load for him, as he is only seven. 

_Tuesday, June_ 23. --Last week the men went by boat to Seal Bay to shootcattle. They had to walk home on Saturday and back again on Monday. Yesterday evening they tried to come up by boat, but had to return. Thewomen went out to-day to meet them at the Bluff, but saw nothing of them. 

_Wednesday, June_ 24. --They went out again to-day to the Bluff, which isquite five miles from here, to meet the men with something warm to drink. The wind was high and heavy storms were passing over the island, but thistime their journey was not in vain, for some of the men returned, carryingas much of the meat as they could. They had killed four oxen. 

_Saturday, June_ 27. --To-day as we were going for a walk on Big Beach Mr. Keytel asked us to call on our way back. This we did and found teaawaiting us. He has made his house look so well. Facing the door there isa book-shelf on the wall with a good supply of books. There are alsoshelves and tables for his photographic apparatus. And, last of all, hehas made little red blinds for his windows, which give the house a verycheerful appearance. So far we have not gone in for curtains, with theexception of one in our bedroom to screen off the draught from thekitchen, a draught which is sometimes so great as to be almost unbearable. 

_Thursday, July_ 2. --The thermometer outside the window registered justover thirty-nine degrees. 

About a fortnight ago Mr. Keytel had a meeting of "All Hands, " at which hesaid that there was one person who had greatly disappointed him, meaningBob Glass. I think it was the day after that Bob Glass went to pay Mr. Keytel a visit and told him that shortly there would be a big fight on theisland, and also that he had a revolver at his house which could be usedon a certain person and then on himself. 

[Illustration: MR. KEYTEL'S HOUSE]

Mr. Keytel finds the sheep have scab, and is much vexed he was not toldthis before shipping them for Cape Town. He hopes to stamp it out, butnothing can be done until next year. 

_Tuesday, July_ 7. --Last Saturday we weighed the loaf I had just baked. Itweighed eight and a half pounds, and was forty-one inches round. We bakeone of this size twice a week. 

_Friday, July_ l0. --On Wednesday night we had a magic-lanternentertainment, given by Mr. Keytel, and nearly every one came to it. Itwas quite a new thing to them and was a great success. There were manymiscellaneous pictures followed by the story of Robinson Crusoe, which wasmuch enjoyed. Mr. Keytel worked the lantern, Graham gave the explanation. 

_Saturday, July_ ll. --A ship seen passing between the islands. 

_Tuesday, July_ l4. --We have had a holiday to-day, as the men werethatching the school roof. A cry of "Sail, ho!" brought them downpost-haste from the work. A steamer was thought to be in sight, but itproved to be a barque, and did not come this way. 

On Sunday evening Mrs. Repetto came in alone. Her husband was at Mr. Keytel's; but she said _she_ was not going to forsake old friends. Shegenerally talks very amusingly. This time she informed us "Mr. Keytel wasa cunning rat, " which she intended as a compliment to his discernment. Sheloves to talk about her children, and told an amusing story of one of herlittle boys. On going to the pig-sty she found a dead little pig. She feltsure that the children had had something to do with it. So, marshallingthem in front of her, she picked out the guiltiest-looking face andcharged its owner with the deed. With difficulty she drew out theconfession that he had gone to look at the little pigs, and as he wasshutting the door one of them got caught in and was killed. He did notknow what to do, so he picked it up and laid it down by the old mother asif it were asleep. 

_Thursday, July_ l6. --We have just returned from another lanternentertainment, at which were shown some interesting slides fromphotographs Mr. Keytel had taken when in Europe. He is giving theseentertainments weekly. 

_Friday, July_ l7. --Mr. Keytel has lent me a most excellent recipe-book, one of the best I have seen. I think the following recipe is delightful--

"A Black Man's Recipe to dress Rice. 

"Wash him well, much wash in cold water, the rice flour make him stick. Water boil all ready very fast. Throw him in, rice can't burn, water shakehim too much. Boil 1 1/4 hours or little more, rub one rice in thumb andfinger; if all rub away him quite done. Put rice in colander, hot waterrun away. Pour cup of cold water on him, put back rice in saucepan, keephim covered near the fire, then rice all ready. Eat him up!"

The dogs have again begun to kill the geese. They killed two a night ortwo ago, and seven last night, five of them belonging to Martha Green. Wewonder the people do not shut up their dogs at night, and especially nowduring the lambing season. We are glad to notice they are driving thesheep more quietly this year, and keeping the dogs more at heel. 

Yesterday Mrs. Henry Green came to tea; she still rarely leaves the house. We carried her off to see the lantern views; on the whole she seems inbetter spirits. 

_Saturday, July_ l8. --Last night we had Charlotte, Lily, and Ruth Swaininto supper. Charlotte resembles a Swede in appearance. Lily, the second, is a good-looking girl with rather a long, pensive face. Ruth is very darkbut has a fine face. She is backward in learning and very diffident. Allthree are very capable girls; they cut out and make their own clothes, andcan turn their hand to most things in the house or on the land. 

_Thursday, July_ 23. --We had quite a gale this morning. As it was ragingtwo of the men, Sam Swain and Bob Green, were passing our house andnoticed some tussock had been blown off the roof. They at once stopped andmended the place. Such damage, if not immediately made good, may easilyend in half the roof being blown off. They came in afterwards to abreakfast of coffee and fish fried in batter. When we met them later inthe day they greeted us with smiling faces, evidently mindful of the kinddeed they had done. This afternoon Mrs. Sam Swain brought us somecraw-fish, and told Ellen her husband said she must cook the fish the wayhe had it at breakfast. The high gale has continued all day, but thepeople say the winds are nothing to what they used to be. 

_Monday, July_ 27. --We have had a holiday to-day, as Mr. Keytel askedGraham to go with him and Repetto up the mountain in search of eaglets, which he wants for specimens. Following the practice of the island women, I thought I would take them out some tea in our new Thermos bottle. SoEllen and I started off in spite of a drizzling rain. The wind was blowingin our faces all the way. As we approached Bugsby Hole we could hearshouting and the barking of dogs, but could see no one. We took shelterunder a high rock, and after waiting some time, as there seemed no hope ofits clearing, went home again. 

It is a great boon having plenty of books as we now have; not that we haveever been very short of them, but now we have greater choice. 

_Wednesday, July_ 29. --We have been for a walk along the shore thisafternoon looking for "sea-beans. " These are the seed of a South Americantree, the _Cæsalpinia Bonduc_, and are often washed up on the shore. Mr. Keytel picked up one of a different species, the _Pusætha scaredens_, theother day, in size about two inches across, the largest that has beenfound here. The same seeds have been picked up on the east coast ofAfrica. This is interesting as showing the direction of the current. 

_Friday, July_ 3l. --On Wednesday we had lantern views of the VictoriaFalls, which particularly interested us, as we had just been readingLivingstone's account of them. 

_Wednesday, August_ 5. --Yesterday and to-day some of the men wererat-hunting at the potato patches. This hunting means considerable labour, as the nests are often in the walls, parts of which have to be pulled downand built up again. The mode of working is this. A dog is sent along thewall. If it scents a rat the hunters gather round and remove the stonesfrom around the spot, then block up with turf all holes in the brokenwall. This done, they uncover the nest, when the rats rush out and arecaught by the dogs, one rarely escapes. Sometimes in winter seven oreight full-grown rats are found in the same nest. 

The new-comers, I am glad to say, have sown wheat, mealies and Kaffircorn. I fear they are feeling the restricted food, as they must now beliving chiefly on fish and potatoes. Henry Green has also sown some wheat, and we are hoping others will do the same next year. Repetto has beentaking out manure to his potato patches. He used three carts and threeyoke of oxen. His two boys, of eight and six, each drove a cart, runningby the oxen whip in hand. The elder one, Arthur, can guide them well;Willie was only learning, but enjoyed himself immensely. 

_Monday, August_ 10. --Graham went straight from school to the potatopatches where the men were rat-hunting, and did not get home till dark. Ibelieve one hundred and fifty rats were caught. He and Mr. Keytel wereinvited into Henry Green's hut, where his daughter and Mrs. Sam Swain didthe honours. 

Just after supper Mrs. Lavarello brought in Mrs. Joe Glass, one of thenew-comers. The Joe Glasses are giving a party this evening in honour ofthe first birthday of their boy, and the mother, who is very young, stillin her "teens, " came to ask if we would go to it. She looked most elegantin a blue blouse and with a blue bow in her hair which was done in thelatest style. She was once a pupil-teacher and is now teaching hersisters' children, who, we hear, are getting on well. 

_Tuesday, August_ 11. --We went to the party last night. The host andhostess did their part well. After about an hour we moved to go, but werespecially asked to stay for supper. A table was then placed in the middleof the room with a nice white cover on it, and tea and plates of cake werebrought in. Three chairs were drawn up and I and Ellen were asked to takethem. Every one else was ranged round the room. It was a littleformidable. 

_Wednesday, August_ 19. --We went down this afternoon to try our hand atfishing. It was too rough to catch anything, but I practised throwing outthe line. The way to do it is to make fast one end, then holding theother, on which is the bait and stone, about a yard up, to rapidly whirlin round and round and then let go with a jerk. A good throw will carrythe rest of the line, which is lying in a coil, forty or fifty yards. 

_Friday, August_ 21. --We have spent the best part of four hours taking theharmonium to pieces and putting it together again. A note had gone wrong, causing the greatest discord; we therefore had to do something. The partsto be unscrewed seemed numberless, but happily we were able to find outwhat was causing the mischief and to put it right. A small peg had got outof its place. It was worth while taking the instrument to pieces if onlyto clear away the accumulation of dust. Yet there was one incident whichthreatened to wreck everything. A board with a line of little upright pegswas removed, which Graham, without a thought that the pegs were notfixtures, turned upside down, when out fell the greater part of them. Toour consternation we found each peg had its own hole and that there wasnothing to show which it was. It took us hours to get them fitted. 

_Saturday, August_ 29. --It is now over five months since we have hadcommunication with the outer world. Happily, the every-day duties andinterests make the weeks pass quickly. Some families have run short ofpotatoes, partly on account of disease and partly on account of theincreased population. The Repettos are among the number. It being theirweek to serve us, I told Mrs. Repetto this morning she must not bring usany, but she brought them all the same. They killed an ox yesterday, andbrought such a huge piece of beef that we had to return some of it. Hesaid, with tears in his eyes, perhaps it would be their last time ofserving us. 

We fear the new-comers will have a bad influence on old and young asregards morals. One of the men and two of the wives are terrible swearers. Some of the children are already singing bad songs learnt from them. 

_Tuesday, September_ 1. --This evening we heard that two whales were to beseen within the kelp. We went on to the cliffs to look and could clearlysee, about a quarter of a mile away, an old one playing with its calf. 

Andrew Swain and his wife spent the evening with us. I taught her a newpattern in knitting, a new heel, and how to cast on double. 

_Friday, September_ 4. --Yesterday after the choir practice Mrs. Repettoand Mary went down to fish. Before long I saw them returning, and whenthey got near noticed Mary had her head bound up. It seems she had fallenon the wet rocks and cut her head near the right temple. Her motherwrapped her pinafore round the place, but could do no more, as such sightsmake her ill. They came in here. It was difficult at first to see whatdamage had been done, as the cut had bled freely and the hair was clottedwith blood. We bathed the place and then made her lie down on Ellen's bed, where she fell asleep. Happily, it turned out not to be such a bad cut asit at first appeared to be. Mrs. Repetto stayed and talked about herchildren. She told us Willie will never go to bed unless she says, "Good-night, dear. " "Good-night, Willie, " will not do. He comes back andthrows his arms round her neck and says, "Say 'dear. '" Sometimes to teazehim she says the other words. The night of the dance when they came backwith the children it was 12 o'clock, but little Joe, though very sleepy, would not go to bed until he had said his prayers. So many of the childrenget no help from their parents in doing right. Truthfulness is a greatdifficulty with them. Quite small children will tell you a lie without somuch as a blink of the eye. I think some are certainly more truthful thanthey were; but children go through such phases that it is not easy to tellwhether the habit of truthfulness has been formed. 

_Saturday, September_ 5. --A ship was sighted early this morning, whichproved to be a French sealer bound for Kerguelen Island. It put out aboat, but not knowing where the settlement was, made for the Hardies. Aboat went off from here and then the ship came round. It has been rather amiserable day, for rain has been falling nearly all the time. Two boatswent out in the afternoon with meat and potatoes, which had been askedfor. The Captain was not willing to give anything but spirits in exchange. The boat which went off in the morning and which contained some of thenew-comers got three bags of biscuits and soap, which ought really to havebeen divided amongst "All Hands. " It was very disappointing for theothers, who had gone out to the ship in a steady downpour. 

The young Sam Swains had a little son born yesterday. This makes ournumber ninety-nine. I went to-day to inquire and found the motherknitting. Mrs. Repetto was nursing the baby, which looked beautifullyclean in a pretty gown and a little print capie on his head. 

_Thursday, September_ l0. --A mild form of mumps is prevalent among theyounger children. The Andrew Hagans have had to leave the house of hisstep-mother, old Eliza Hagan. Susan Hagan could stand the life there nolonger. It seems that Mrs. James Hagan is out nearly all day, neglects herchildren, and is altogether impossible to live with. It is hard that theyshould have to turn out for newcomers, the more so as Andrew is the elderbrother and has been living in the house many years. What led to thefinal breach was James saying to Susan that her husband had stolen hisstep-mother's sheep and that there would be blood and slaughter. Thisalarmed the Andrew Hagans so much that they made up their minds to leavenext day, and did so. The old step-mother is staying on, as it is herhouse, but I fear she will have an ill time of it, for the childrenare unmanageable and she will often be left alone with them. 

_Friday, September_ 11. --This morning as we were getting up there was aloud knock at the door. Bill Rogers had come to ask us to go at once tohis boy Arthur, who was very ill. He had been waiting until he saw thesmoke coming from our chimney, and looked, poor fellow, very much upset. We hurried on our things and were off in about three minutes. He wasstanding at his door looking for us. The room was full of men. Arthur wason the sofa in the sitting-room and propped up with pillows. He wasbreathing with the greatest difficulty, could not swallow, and the salivawas running out of his mouth. Graham soon cleared the room by taking themen outside. The mother and I set to and fomented the boy's throat. In ashort time I saw this was giving relief, as he was beginning to swallowand to breathe more easily. The poor father was in tears. Later on wefomented again, after which he was able to speak. This evening he seemsgoing on nicely. He had been suffering from mumps, and we think he musthave caught cold. 

I went to see Mrs. Sam Swain, who has the baby-boy, and heard an amusingstory of her sharp little child of three. She did not want to come toschool this morning, but her god-mother, Charlotte Swain, dressed her andmade her come. When school was over and Charlotte was going out with her, she said, "Mummish, you got the best of me this morning. "

_Thursday, September_ 17. --Early this morning Graham went off by boatwith Mr. Keytel and Repetto to visit Freshwater Cave to get specimens ofnight-birds and their eggs. Mr. Keytel remained in charge of the boatwhile Graham and Repetto went into the cave, which was about one hundredyards in length. At the far end was a pebbly beach, where the birds weresupposed to be. Between it and the mouth was water, which had to bepassed. Repetto climbed from ledge to ledge along one side of the cave. Graham preferred to wade and swim through the water. They saw about twelvenight-birds and found seven eggs. Mr. Keytel took a photograph of themstanding at the cave's mouth. 

[Illustration: FRESHWATER CAVE]

I spent the day visiting the different invalids. I daily visit ArthurRogers, who is still on the couch and whose face remains much swollen, butnow he is feeling better he is all smiles. I think the mumps are going theround of the settlement, though with some the complaint only shows itselfin a bad headache and a general feeling of illness. 

This evening Andrew Hagan and his wife have been in, Graham having askedthem to come, as he wanted to hear from them why they had left theirhouse. What they said agreed with what I have already related. He has alsoasked James Hagan, and, as he has not come, has been to see him more thanonce, but has not been able to find him at home. 

_Thursday, September_ 24. --The men have finished planting their potatoes;of which the early ones will be ready for digging in November. Until thenthe people will be very short of suitable food. They have no flour and areliving a good deal on young eaglets, which are too rich to eat withoutpotatoes. 

Many persons have been suffering from ophthalmia. One of the babies fromthe Cape came with it. We strongly recommend those who have had it intheir houses to whitewash their rooms, and we have offered what lime wecan spare. 

I must not forget to mention a diverting trade letter received from anenterprising Liverpool firm. It is addressed to the Collector of Customs, Tristan d'Acunha, and the following is one of its paragraphs--

"If not asking too much, we should be glad if you will send us the namesof any Traders and General Storekeepers in Tristan d'Acunha who would beinterested in our catalogues, which we could forward them by mail direct. We believe our goods are largely imported to Tristan d'Acunha, and wouldbe greatly obliged if you could comply with our request, as we find thenames furnished by directories are not altogether satisfactory. "

CHAPTER XXXI

_Saturday, September_ 26. --The weeks are flying fast. In November we shallbegin packing, so as to be ready in case a ship should call for us. Weshall leave the furniture to be put by for any future clergyman. 

Yesterday we had again to take the harmonium to pieces, as another notehad gone wrong. We could find nothing amiss except that the note squeakedwhen pressed; it, however, came all right after the board had been placednear the fire. 

To-day old Eliza Hagan had tea with us. She is now without tea and livesmostly on eggs. She looked so aged and talked but little, just answeringus. I think she was afraid of being asked about the Jim Hagans, who livewith her, but we carefully avoided that subject. A few days ago Graham hada straight talk with Mrs. James Hagan and Will Swain, at the house ofwhose mother, Susan Swain, she spends most of her time. We shall bringhome, all being well, a number of photographs. Mr. Keytel very kindlyalways gives us copies of those he has taken. 

_Monday, September_ 28. --Our population is now one hundred, Mrs. Bob Glasshaving had a son yesterday. I saw her for a few minutes this morning. There are many other invalids, for several are suffering from the breakingout of sores. Alfred has had them very badly on his face and has beenreally ill. They break out on the head, face, arms and legs, and, in fact, all over the body, causing those who are suffering from them to feel verypoorly. They are certainly contagious, and attack men, women and children, apparently they were brought by one of the children from the Cape. 

On Saturday thirteen of the men went by boat to Sandy Point. They tooktheir dogs, and coming back, having no room for them in the boats owing tothe number of eggs, sent them home overland. The old ones reached homeabout as soon as their masters. The next day I happened to see BillRogers, who told me his young collie (the best-looking dog on the island)had not returned. He seemed very upset about it, and said he should go offin search of it. Happily, in the afternoon when he got home from servicehe found it had returned. It was so footsore that its feet had to be boundup. When we first arrived there was a very poor set of dogs. But later SamSwain was sent a half collie, and now there is a very much better stamp ofdog. These new dogs have quite won their way with the people, who thinkmuch more of them and allow them in the house. They have gentle, attractive ways, very much like those of our Rob. 

_Saturday, October_ 3. --I am daily dressing Alfred's face with boracicointment, which I think is doing good. Poor Ben was taken ill again lastnight with fits. It is nearly a year since he had any. He has got underbad influence and has vowed he will never go to church again. Some of theother men have also almost given up coming, whereas at one time they camefairly regularly. 

_Wednesday, October_ 7. --A ship was sighted soon after five this morning. Mr. Keytel and some of the men went off to it; but many of the others wereon the mountains hunting for eggs. It was an American sealer and cameclose in. We got a barrel of flour for five lambs. The captain had come infor potatoes, but, of course, could not get any. He said another of theirsealers, which had started four days earlier than he had, was going tocall, and that both were bound for Gough Island. 

_Thursday, October_ 8. --An expedition was planned yesterday by Graham, Mr. Keytel and Repetto were to go on the mountain today in search of Molly'seggs. They arranged to start between two and three. Graham got up at two, and when Repetto came to call him was dressed and just going to havebreakfast. I spent part of the morning photographing, and took the HenryGreen family sitting in front of their house. I found Mrs. Green so hardup for cotton that she was unravelling a piece of boat canvas. Themountaineers returned in the early evening. Graham much enjoyed the day, and thinks they must have walked thirty miles. Going up they watched thesealer cautiously sailing round Inaccessible. They also got a view of thePeak, which had a little snow on it. Mr. Keytel photographed the Mollyhawkon its nest. 

[Illustration: MOLLYHAWK ON ITS NEST]

_Saturday, October_ 10. --There was a south-east wind blowing last night. This is a wind likely to do damage, so Graham went out to have a lookround and saw something sticking out from the roof. There being no lightsin the houses he concluded every one was in bed, and so got the ladder andmounted on to the roof, where he found a piece of wood that holds the leaddown had got loose. This afternoon, meeting several men at Mr. Keytel's, he told them how he had fastened the loose board, when they said, "Youshould have called 'Sail, ho!'; you would have had every one out of theirbeds pretty quick. "

_Tuesday, October_ 13. --We were awakened by a cry of "Sail, ho!" I got up, added postscripts to my letters, and retired to bed again. The men startedoff but seeing the ship was not heading this way they came back. 

Mrs. H. Green is getting quite brisk. I have called once or twice onSunday morning and taken her to church. The women are not coming very wellto their meeting; on an average there are only eight or nine, of whomCharlotte Swain is always one. She loves a joke. I sometimes have a raceto get to the meeting first, and one day heard great laughter from herhouse and saw heads at the window; her people were much enjoying the fun. 

_Tuesday, October_ 20. --We have dispatched our letters at last. The shipwas a Norwegian bound for Adelaide. The captain was making his firstvoyage as such. He gave Mr. Keytel some books, two of which, _KeswickWeek_ and _Side-lights of the Bible_, have been passed on to us. I fear acaptain must find our men rather a worry. They go to him with so manyrequests. Only think, after you imagine the trading has been done, ofhaving sixteen men, one after the other, each wanting something inexchange for a bottle of milk or a dozen eggs. We met the returning boats, and Mr. Keytel came and sat down on the shingle and told us how the dayhad gone and what a kind captain they had met with. 

_Wednesday, October_ 21. --We heard the first thing this morning a smallvessel was in sight coming from the east. As it was wet and the sea was"making up, " the men did not go out to her. 

_Thursday, October_ 22. --A barque sighted far out, as usual, going east. 

_Friday, October_ 23. --A small vessel sighted this evening. 

CHAPTER XXXII

_Saturday, October_ 24. --We have had an unusually exciting day. The smallvessel that was sighted yesterday evening and which the people felt surewas an American whaler was seen again this morning. As it was making forthe island the men did not hurry to go out. At last three boats went off. It was rather breezy. When the first boat reached the ship, to oursurprise it at once began to return, and the other two did not go on. Soonafter two o'clock Charlotte Swain came running up from the beach, quitebreathless, to say the captain was coming ashore and wanted especially tosee Graham, so we went down, thinking he was perhaps bringing letters. Wemet him on the top of the cliff, and he and Mr. Keytel came with us to thehouse. This is what we learnt: the stranger's name was Pearson. The vesselwas not an ordinary ship, but a ketch, nor had it a regular crew, but wasmanned by himself, his two brothers, a friend and a Creole. He was not thecaptain, but his next brother was, and held a master-mariner'scertificate. They had come out from Dover with the object of seeing forthemselves what these islands and Gough Island could produce in the way ofguano. A friend had given them the ketch, and with only three pounds intheir pockets they set sail. They had had a most adventurous voyage; forthey took nearly five months coming out and were only provisioned forthree. Our visitor told us of the straits they had been in for food. Theyhad only flour, tea and a few biscuits left. Their oil had run short andthey had just begun to eat uncooked flour. Of water they had only twogallons left. I understood that most of the time they had been withoutmeat and had lived chiefly on dried beans and peas. Mr. Keytel told usthat when he went on board they were trembling from weakness. Notwithstanding all they have gone through Mr. Pearson seemed quitecheerful and said he felt better for the voyage. None of them except thesailor-brother knew anything about the working of a boat; one of them wasan architect, one a city clerk, and one a secretary. They had not longbeen out from Dover before these three were down with sea-sickness, andthe captain had to do all the work, day and night, through the Channel. Assoon as they found their sea-legs they had to take their turn at thetiller, with the result that the course was often very considerablychanged from what the captain had set. At a Portuguese island they took inthe Creole, who wanted to work his passage to the Cape. I think it was atthis place that the Port Officials found the rolling and pitching of theboat too much for them, and had to beat a hasty retreat. The sails of theketch are much damaged, due not to rough weather, but to having beenallowed to flap when she was becalmed. 

Our visitor, who is the architect, said he would like to go round thesettlement, and was very much pleased with the architecture of the houses, which he thought to be in such excellent keeping with the natural tone ofthe place. Mr. Keytel has undertaken to get them supplies. To-night wesent them a large loaf of bread, sugar and treacle. Mr. Pearson said theydid not want to beg, and offered clothes and books in exchange, but I saidreceiving was not begging and that it was a pleasure to give. We hear thisevening that the American sealer has appeared on the scene, so no doubtthey will be able to get something from her. The ketch has come close inand anchored, and looks so small. Their plan after visiting Gough Islandis to go on to the Cape and there sell the ketch. 

_Sunday, October_ 25. --The American sealer came in and three boats wentoff to her, taking two of the Mr. Pearsons. They returned about twoo'clock, when Graham went down and brought back to dinner Mr. Keytel, theyoungest brother, who looks more like a son of the Mr. Pearson we firstsaw, and the friend, Mr. Crumpton. These two had started off for churchthis morning, but could not pull through the kelp and had to return. Directly dinner was over we had to hurry to service, the two young mengoing with us. They did not know what to do with their fox-terrier, butsolved the difficulty by bringing it in. It certainly looks as if it hadbeen through a famine, and as regards colour might have been living up thechimney. Later in the day the captain and his brother came ashore and Mr. Keytel brought them in, but they did not stay long as it was getting dusk. 

_Monday, October_ 26. --We are having a run of ships; another appeared thismorning, and the men decided to go out to her though the sea was rough. Wewent down with Mr. Keytel who had kindly come in for our letters. I sat onthe top of the bank with the Repettos and watched the proceedings. Atfirst only one boat was going, but more men arriving a second wasprepared. The sea was "making up" and it looked rather a risky business. They seemed to be hesitating about going, but were only waiting for theright moment to get off. When they did push off the last men who scrambledin got wet up to their waists and for one moment the boat pitched so itlooked as if it would turn over, but in a minute or two it was in safer, though still rough, waters. The second boat got off better. Mr. Keytel andRepetto signalled to the men on the ketch to put out to sea on account ofthe weather. They were in need of water, but it was too rough to take anyoff to them. Later it got much rougher and a mist came over the sea. Theboats had been seen returning from the ship, but afterwards had been lostsight of. As they did not appear in the afternoon it was thought they hadlanded to the east of Big Point, and would come home by land, and this wasso. At about 4. 30 smoke was seen on the mountain side; and soon the womenhurried out with tea. We followed, and somehow felt sure that it was aship that had called before, and that we might possibly get letters by it. The first men we met told us that the ship had come to fetch us, which wasa great surprise. The captain had hove to all night, and said he couldgive us four hours to come out, but the men told him it would not bepossible because of the weather; as it was, one boat had two of its boardsbroken and very nearly had to return. Next we heard the joyful news thatour surmise was right and that there were letters for us. The post-bag wassoaked and some of its contents, but not our letters. We returned with thepeople, and passing Mr. Keytel's house and seeing him at the door told himthe news. He insisted on our going in and having a cup of tea. When we gotback we were able to sit down and read our precious letters. I had four;getting news of home seems to bring one so much nearer to it. The men gota good deal of food-stuff from the ship, and, indeed, they are in need ofit for they are living on meat only at present. 

_Tuesday, October_ 27. --They got 300 lbs. Of flour, also rice, tea, sugarand soap. 

There was a missionary on board who we understood from the men knewGraham, but sometimes they get a little mixed. Henry Green brought us as apresent from the captain some Brown Windsor soap and a bottle ofunfermented wine. Had it been fine the captain intended coming ashore. 

_Thursday, October_ 29. --The ketch arrived late yesterday evening, havingtaken all Tuesday and Wednesday to get in. The Pearsons have been on shoreto-day and have filled their water-barrels. The captain and the architectdined with us, and the latter spent the afternoon with us. He is aninteresting man and has been giving his advice about the stone whichshould be used for the church and house. He is strong upon the point thathouses ought always to be built, when possible, of the material of theplace, as that naturally, and, therefore, best, suits the landscape. Hisview is that nature will do much even where there is no beauty in thelocal stone itself. He thinks that mountains influence character, and thatthe people here have melancholy-looking faces which he attributes to themountains. To an outsider, perhaps, the faces of many of the people dolook thoughtful and sad, but their faces are hardly an index of theircharacter. 

_Friday, October_ 30. --Four of the islanders, Henry Green, Repetto, AndrewHagan and Bill Green have been building a new boat which was launched thisafternoon. Two new boats are also being built by others. The boats arebuilt entirely of driftwood with the exception of the ribs; for these thewood of the apple-tree is used, unless oak can be had from a whaler. Overthe ribs are laid horizontal pieces of wood called slabbies, over which isnailed canvas which is oiled and painted. Henry's boat, the largest yetmade, is twenty-two feet long. 

_Sunday, November_ 1. --We have had quite a summer-like day. The ketchparty including the Creole came ashore early, and the Pearsons came toservice and had dinner with us afterwards. We could just manage to sitround the table. Sitting in the garden in the afternoon I was joined bythe architect who sat on the grass and discoursed. Soon we were called totea, the two younger men having arrived, who were followed by the captain. They seemed to enjoy the home life and did not leave till after dusk. Theyhave given much pleasure by presenting John Glass with a clock and Repettowith a watch. 

_Tuesday, November_ 3. --We asked the Pearsons to dinner as it was thetwenty-first birthday of the youngest, and also to tea, for which had beenmade a special dough-cake which was much appreciated. To-morrow theyintend going to Inaccessible to get samples of guano. 

_Wednesday, November_ 4. --I began looking over things preparatory topacking, but did not get through much for two visitors appeared, MarthaGreen with eggs and Ruth to have her finger poulticed. The four from theketch had tea with us. 

_Friday, November_ 6. --Yesterday we had quite a home-like scene--afternoontea in the garden at the architect's suggestion. He told me that once inLondon his weekly food-bill was only two shillings and sevenpence, theresult of studying the nourishing values of different food-stuffs, ofhaving no meat and of being his own cook. Presently the two younger menjoined us and sat on the grass round the tea-tray. In the early hours ofthis morning they were off to Inaccessible, taking with them Repetto toshow them where to find the guano. 

This week I have not been to school but have devoted my time to sortingthings and packing, and a great business it has been in these smallquarters. 

[Illustration: NEARLY FINISHED]

_Monday, November_ 9. --Graham was _hors de combat_ on Sunday with one ofhis headaches, so I had to take the services. I spoke out plainly aboutthe attendance at church, though only by the way, and said it showed howlittle they cared about the things of God, and that we could not helpasking ourselves if we had been any real help to even one person onTristan. 

This afternoon I gave up to gardening. Just as Ellen and I had planted outsome tomatoes Mr. Keytel brought some mignonette plants and put them in. He brought also a sample of a loaf he had cooked which he thought wasquite a triumph. 

_Thursday, November_ 12. --On Tuesday the ketch returned from the islandsand has again anchored. I think the Pearsons are loath to take to seaagain. The architect has most kindly drawn a plan for a church here, and Ionly wish we could carry it out. 

We are gradually getting on with the work of packing, and have made listsof what is to be put by when we are gone. 

I have taken rather a good view of the front of the house and want toprint it on postcards to send home, but this takes time and I have littleto spare in the morning. 

_Friday, November_ l3. --Our letters are to be taken on board to-day, forwith the first north wind the ketch will move out. We wonder when it willreach Cape Town, for we fear it will be a long time on the way. While ithas been here there has been a remarkable spell of fine weather. 

_Sunday, November_ 15. --The Pearsons have not gone yet. They landed to-daythough it was somewhat rough, came to service, and had dinner with us. 

_Wednesday, November_ 18. --Our visitors have gone. They came in yesterdayto say good-bye. I had to go to the women's meeting, but was back in timeto pour out tea for them, after which we saw them off from Big Beach. Theketch, which was called _Forget-me-not_, had anchored off the settlementeighteen days and within half-a-mile of the shore. This was a record forTristan waters. 

Here is a note about vessels and Tristan given by Repetto and which he isvery anxious should find its way into the newspapers: If a vessel inmoderate weather comes in sight of the island just before nightfall and isrecognized from the shore and is seen to be coming in the direction of thesettlement, the boats from the island are sure to go off to meet it. TheMaster of the vessel will see a light on shore which many ships take to bea lighthouse; but it is not a lighthouse but a fire lit by the islandersto tell the ship that the boats have gone off to it. The Master of anyship that at night sees this fire is asked to show a white light as aguide to the boats to steer by. In the daytime when a ship sees smoke onthe island it may know that the boats are coming out to her. 

[Illustration: THE KETCH (Length, TS/t. Beam, lift. Draught, 9/1. )]

CHAPTER XXXIII

_Friday, November_ 20. --Last night Mr. Keytel had a meeting of all themen, at which he asked Graham to be present as he wanted him to heareverything. He had drawn up an agreement to work for him for three years, which he invited all the men to sign except Bob Glass, with whom he willhave no dealings. He spoke very plainly to the men and told them they hadnot been straightforward with him. To name one thing, they had never toldhim the sheep had scab. As a consequence the sheep sent to the Cape willno doubt have to undergo treatment and be a large expense. At his requestGraham read the agreement aloud and explained it. All signed it. Mr. Keytel warned them that if any one broke the agreement he could be putinto prison; whereupon some one asked if the prison would be here. "No, "said Mr. Keytel; "Cape Town!"

This afternoon I took the girls of the knitting class for a picnic. Whennotice of it was given out in school I could see a smile of pleasurecoming over their faces. Still, they take their pleasures solemnly. Nearlyall appeared with knitting in their hands. Arrived at our destination, where we had a lovely view of red rocks jutting out into the sea, they allsat solemnly down in a row save Charlotte, who set to to make the fire andboil the water. After tea we hid chocolate in the grass, the finding ofwhich they much enjoyed. 

_Tuesday, November_ 24. --Last week we sent round to each family all theclothing we could spare; and to-day we had Miss Cotton to tea to show herthe various things in the house she is to have. 

Yesterday Graham, Mr. Keytel, Repetto and H. Green were to have startedupon an expedition round the island, but the weather changed. If they donot get off this week Graham will not go, because a vessel might call forus, though we do not expect one so early. 

_Wednesday, November_ 25. --This afternoon Graham and I, accompanied byfive little girls, went towards the potato patches. Graham is measuringtheir distances from the settlement. He measured the first mile the otherday, and when we came to the spot I painted on a large rock 1 MILE. Wewent on and measured a second mile, which was also marked, and then it wastime to return. The children were delighted to help by holding the lineand were as frolicsome as kittens. 

_Thursday, November_ 26. --This morning Graham, hearing from Repetto thatit was not thought a good day for the expedition, as it would be rough forlanding on the other side, determined to start off by himself on foot. Hepacked his food in a biscuit-tin, round which he rolled his overcoat, andput the bundle into an island knapsack. This knapsack is ratheringeniously made out of a sack by fastening to each of the bottom cornersone end of a stout round band usually made of canvas stuffed with wool. Around the middle of this band is tied string, which ties the mouth of thesack and at the same time fastens the band to the mouth. In this way areformed two loops through which the arms go and which make excellentshoulder-straps. With this slung on his back he set forth, going west. Inthe afternoon, just as Ellen and I were starting forth to spend it in theopen, Maria Green came to say her father did not like the thought ofGraham having gone alone and that he was going to follow him. It wasrather a relief to my mind as the mountain is dangerous in places. We wentwest and I sat down to sketch. Before very long we saw Henry and Tomcoming quickly along on their donkeys and with knapsacks. I was glad ofthe opportunity of telling them how I appreciated their kindness. 

When we got back we had one caller after another; some brought fish, another eggs, and another wool; we had seven visitors in all. I thinkperhaps it was a return for some soap which we had sent round yesterday. At last we were able to have supper, but bread had to be made before wecould settle down for the evening. 

I am making a blue serge dress for Little Lizzie and trimming the sleeveswith narrow white tape. 

_Saturday, November_ 28. --Graham returned to-day having thoroughly enjoyedthe expedition; but he did not get round the island as he had hoped to do, for his left knee gave way the first day. Probably the weight of hisknapsack (21 lbs. ) had something to do with this. He was overtaken earlythat evening by the two men, who went the short way round the Bluffthrough the sea. They got to Seal Bay that night and slept outside theusual cave by their fire, Graham's bed being two planks. Next day theywent to Stony Beach about four miles further on and which I believe, isthe most beautiful part of the island. There is a great deal of grass-landand quite a forest of trees. The two men did the cooking and insisted uponcarrying Graham's knapsack. Early that morning Henry saw quite a new birdwhich he said looked like a woman standing straight up. Graham says itresembled a stork. The second night they slept inside the cave, which theycleaned out, and having dried the tussock in the sun had softer beds. Coming home, for the first time Graham rounded the Bluff, wadingwaist-deep. 

I went to-day to see Ruth, who has been ill for a month with mumps, andthe last two days has taken to her bed; her neck is very much swollen. 

_Monday, November_ 30. --Yesterday at noon a ship appeared and proved to bea whaler. All the men went out to her. Graham was in hopes he would get aletter from home, which he did, and I got one from an old friend of theislanders. Two of the islanders also got letters from relations inAmerica. We hear that there is no likelihood of a ship calling for us. Mr. Keytel has, however, very kindly offered us passages in the_Greyhound_, which he expects about March 20. It is a comfort that ourplans are thus made a little more definite. Now we know that no ship willcall for us in December we are thinking of spending a week at Stony Beach. The captain of the whaler ordered a good deal: a bullock, sheep, fortyfowls, geese, and one hundred bushels of potatoes. 

_Wednesday, December_ 2. --The people are pleased with their bartering. Ibelieve they have eight barrels of flour, a large quantity of biscuits, and a barrel of molasses. After they had supplied him the captain toldthem that two more whalers would be calling. 

This afternoon Mrs. Susan Swain came to tea. She was a St. Helenian andwas brought here as a young married woman. She told us how home-sick shewas at first. 

_Friday, December_ 4. --Just after service Lily Swain ran down to ask me togo and see Ruth as the swelling on her neck had burst. The swelling turnedout to be an abscess, which was discharging freely. She has made verylittle of what she has suffered, only complaining of pain and of her neckbeing too tender to be touched. 

This afternoon Graham has been whitewashing as we were anxious to leavethe house in good order. 

_Thursday, December_ 10. --Yesterday the men went over to Seal Bay and shotfive oxen, so they are well set up in meat for some time to come. Theysalt it down. To-day they have been working for Mr. Keytel putting a roofon an old boat-house to be used as a store for fish. All being well, theystart fishing next Monday. The green fly is not as bad this month as itwill be next. 

Poor Rob has had a bad bite in his side--a three-cornered tear. Piebrought it upon himself, as he seized a bone from another dog. I thoughtit ought to be sewn up, and showed it to Mr. Keytel, who was of the sameopinion, and to my great relief offered to do it. He sewed the edgestogether most successfully, and although it was hard work forcing theneedle through the skin, Rob behaved admirably. 

_Friday, December_ 11. --Rob licked himself to such an extent last nightthat he opened the wound. We put a bandage round him, but he soon pushedit aside to lick, so we have had to leave the wound to him and nature. 

_Monday, December_ 14. --We are busy making children's garments forChristmas. 

A ship passed to-day and put up a red flag, which we took to mean that itwanted to communicate with the island, but unfortunately it was too roughfor the men to put out. The sea was covered with "white horses"--"caps, "as they are called here. 

_Wednesday, December_ l6. --To-day the men started on the fishing business. They went off in their five boats about five o'clock, were out about fivehours and did exceedingly well. Each boat-load was laid separately on theshingle. Then Mr. Keytel went from heap to heap and showed the women howto treat the fish. Each fish has to be slit open, cleaned, then slit twiceagain. The men helped by cutting off the heads. About fifteen hundred fishwere thus dealt with. After they had been cleaned and slit they had to bewashed. They were then carted up to the storehouse on the top of the cliffto be salted. Salt had to be thoroughly rubbed into each one, which took along time. Lastly, they will be placed in barrels where they will be lefttill to-morrow, when, if fine, they will be hung up to dry. The dryingprocess takes about three days. The people were working till almost dusk. Poor Mr. Keytel had a most unpleasant episode with one of the new-comers, who swore at him, and took off his coat to fight him, coming up to him twoor three times. This happened before all the men and women. It appears theman was annoyed because Mr. Keytel was not on the shore when the boatscame in. Mr. Keytel remained perfectly calm but told him he should fish nolonger for him. He will have nothing more to do with him unless heapologizes. 

[Illustration: FISH-CLEANING]

_Friday, December_ l8. --We had a diversion to-day. Betty Cotton hurried into say a steamer was making for the settlement. Graham soon followed andsaid we must pack at once, for the steamer might be coming for us, and ifnot, might take us. Mr. Keytel was going off, and we asked him to hoist aflag if the captain was ready to take us. We packed as fast as we couldand were surprised how quickly we did it. There was no delay, for we hadmade a list of what had to be put in at the last moment. Repetto came downand helped. When we had nearly finished he looked through his glass againand saw the boats returning and the steamer moving on. For the moment itwas a blow, for we had to unpack and return to our normal life again. After comparing notes, we think the steamer saw the boats and stopped, butthe men not realizing this turned for home. It would not have been a goodday to go, for the sea was choppy and probably all our things would havegot wet. There was too much surf for the boats to land on this beach. Wedon't regret not having gone, since we should like to be here forChristmas; indeed, we do not want to leave before the end of March. 

I am still visiting Ruth, as her neck is not yet right; the only thing todo seems to be to go on poulticing it. 

We wish it were possible for the Henry Greens to send their youngest childto the Cape to see a doctor. He is nearly four and cannot talk yet; theparents say he has once or twice said words and that he understandseverything said to him. 

_Saturday, December_ 19. --Another eventful day. A whaler appeared and twoboats were to be seen coming from it. It was the _Canton_, the whaler thatwas here last year with Walter Swain on board. This time it brought a mailfrom St. Helena. It was not a very exciting one, as it contained mostlypapers. But the Postmaster of St. Helena most kindly sent two parcels oftoys and some copy-books, which were particularly acceptable. He has beenso kind in remembering the island each time a whaler has come from St. Helena. We had an agreeable surprise, Walter Swain bringing us letterssent through his owners, Messrs. Wing Bros, of New Bedford. 

_Tuesday, December_ 22. --A cry of "Sail, ho!" was raised during school. Itwas a wet and foggy morning. As the fog lifted for a moment, a four-mastedvessel was seen coming straight for Hottentot Point. It was close in andin a few minutes would have been on the rocks. The captain must have had agreat shock when he found how near land he was. The ship was seen to headout as fast as it could and was soon again lost to view in the fog. 

Last Sunday was a very disorganized day. The captain of the whaler, acoloured man, came ashore and said he must leave that day as the weatherwas changing. I believe he would have waited had the men made a stand. With the exception of Henry Green and Repetto they were at work all day, digging up potatoes, carting them to the beach, and taking them off to theship, from which they did not return till dark. They did very well, getting at least ten barrels of flour. 

_Saturday, December_ 26. --There was not much time for writing on ChristmasDay. Mr. Keytel came in to supper, after which we played games, and thenhad a long chat, not getting off to bed till nearly eleven o'clock--verylate for us primitive folk. The services were not largely attended, manyheads of families being absent; but the elder boys and girls attendedwell. We had no need to cook a dinner for we had roast pig sent us bythree different families, also a berry pie. 

We are taking a short holiday, and intend next week, if fine, to go toSeal Bay for a day or two. William is to go with us to carry thebaggage. 

_Sunday, December_ 27. --The weather seems more settled and we hope tostart early to-morrow morning. William is most keen upon our going and hasdonkeys ready. 

CHAPTER XXXIV

_Seal Bay, Monday, December_ 28. --Well, I must tell of all our doings fromthe beginning. We went to bed last night before eight, and were up thismorning by four o'clock. Our packing did not take long. My possessionswere a rug, air cushion, bathing dress, pair of stockings, comb, towel, tooth-brush, soap, knitting, a gospel, sketching things, a book andcamera. We started at six, Ellen, Mary Repetto and Sophy Rogersaccompanying us as far as the Bluff, which is five miles out. Ellen and Irode on donkeys and a third carried the baggage. Graham very much hoped weshould be able to keep to the shore by wading round the Bluff, which isnot always possible as the sea sometimes dashes against the cliff withmuch force. It would only have taken a few minutes and would have saved along climb over the Bluff. However, William, who is timid, was deadagainst it, so we chose the hill. It meant hard climbing over severalridges and took us about an hour and a half. Ellen and the girls kept withus till the descent began, when we bid them farewell. We filed along theside of the mountain for some time and found it rather rough walking, thetrack leading through long grass in which were hidden holes and stones. Atlast we got down to the shore, and after a sandy bit had three miles ofclambering and stepping over boulders and big stones. This was really hardwork, if only because one was obliged to hold the head down in order topick every step. At last we got near the end of it, and coming to a streamtrickling down the cliff--how we welcomed the water, for we were hot andthirsty!--we sat down and had our lunch. 

_Tuesday, December_ 29. --To continue the account. We had now come to avery picturesque part, and were nearly at Seal Bay. On the shore was aclump of rocks forming an archway. Rocks like these are rather a featureon this side of the island. We had now a short but stiff climb; holding onto tufts of stubbly reed-like grass we pulled ourselves up to the top ofthe cliff. Here we were on fairly level ground, an uneven plain nearlythree miles long, the first part of which had its grass thickly strewnwith tiny ferns. The sweet-scented geranium abounded and so did thecrowberry, which is a finer and sweeter kind than that which growsnearer the settlement. We frequently stopped to refresh ourselves with it. Near a gulch we sat down for a good rest, and then trudged on to Seal Bay. The scenery was fine, high mountains with long, grassy slopes. We soongot to the cave on the shore which the men generally occupy, a poor sortof shelter. The first thing we now did was to cook our supper. Boilingwater was soon ready for the tea and steaming potatoes for the cold meat. Supper over I went to a pool to wash up, and found the water quite warm. The next thing was to find a sleeping-place. We went along the shore insearch of a cave and in about ten minutes came to two side by side. Onewas immense--long, broad and lofty--and we immediately marked it off asour drawing-room. The other was just as small; it had a good openfrontage, but was only about seven feet broad; it would do, though, tosleep in. Both were floored with clean sand and fairly dry. Close by wesaw troops of penguins, which looked so delightfully quaint hopping andrunning in long files to the sea. They have such an ancient look as theymove with bent body and head poking forward. We finally decided to sleepin the open on a sand bank, which was still warm from the sun. We foundthe best plan was to scoop out a place to lie in and heap up sand for apillow. We had left William busy blocking up his cave with planks, andstopping up every crevice with tussock, so that not a breath of cold airshould enter. Sleep would not come to us, and the roar of the wavesdashing on the beach a few yards below us did not help to bring it. Thewind, rising, began to blow the sand in our faces. This was a little toomuch, so about two o'clock Graham got up and lit the fire which he hadalready laid just inside the cave, and soon we were sitting and warmingourselves at its blaze. Then we tried the cave and got a little sleep, butwere awakened by William at four. We sent him off to fish, and afterresting a little longer, got up and had a bathe. There were rather bigbreakers, and I was knocked down but was none the worse. William, who as arule is no fisherman, had caught six fish, and I superintended the boilingof them for breakfast, while Graham went for fresh water, which is only tobe had some distance off. 

_Wednesday, December 30_. --We started betimes yesterday for Stony Beachand found it a longer walk than I expected. We went along the shore, partof the way over boulders, then on to the side of the hill, where Iphotographed two mollyhawks on their nest. I also took photographs atdifferent points along the shore. We at last got on to a grassy slope. Wewere feeling tired, but trudged on. As we neared Stony Hill we heard thegalloping of wild cattle, and soon a troop of them appeared. Happily, wewere well out of their course, for they are sometimes dangerous. This partof the way was very tiring and we were thankful--at least I was--when wegot to the wooded valley which was our destination. Amongst the trees wereflocks of noisy penguins. We were now in a most lovely part; it was reallybeautiful, and the view up the valley wild and fine. We settled down underthe shade of the trees, made a fire and had a meal, after which Graham andWilliam wandered away. I thankfully found a shady spot under a tree andhad a rest. Then roused myself and tried to sketch. It was very hot andone did not feel energy for anything, not even to read. After a timeGraham and William returned; they had wandered on to the opposite hill, from where I had heard their voices. Graham was anxious I should see thevalley, so at last I mustered energy enough to stroll up. I was glad Iwent, for the view was very grand. We toiled up the side of the valley onto a ridge and looked down on Stony Beach, which lay at a great depthbelow. Scattered along it in a half-circle were hundreds of penguins. We slowly made our way down again, resting when we could under the shadeof trees. We got back to the place where we lunched, made some tea, andhad a hard-boiled egg each and some bread-and-butter, but not much, as wehad to husband our food. It was about six, and we thought it time to startback to Seal Bay. We could not stay at Stony Beach, as we knew of noshelter. Walking across the moor, we kept a look-out for the cattle andspied them some distance away on higher ground; they appeared to bewatching our movements narrowly. We came back quickly and got to ourquarters in an hour and thirty-five minutes, just as it was getting dusk. We sat down at the mouth of our cave; then Graham and William lit the fireand put the potatoes on to boil. I sat near and at intervals progged thepotatoes. It came on to rain slightly, but the cave just sheltered us. William slept in a corner against the wall, near where the fire had been. Graham got up in the middle of the night and put a rug over him, as he hadnot been able to sleep much the night before on account of feeling cold. I never had a better night, and felt refreshed, though tired. It has beenvery showery, but we managed to go off for a bathe and found a betterplace than yesterday's: a place between two rocks, into which the searushed at frequent intervals. We enjoyed a lazy morning. While Graham andWilliam played cricket in the large cave, I rested in the other. When Ilooked in upon them a little later I found them stretched at full length, with pocket-handkerchiefs over their faces, which told its own tale. 

There is lying on the rocks here the trunk of a large tree, which wasfirst washed up on Tristan in 1894. It then measured, Repetto says, 120feet to 140 feet in length, and 20 feet in girth. 

[Illustration: HOTTENTOT GULCH]

_Thursday, December_ 3l. --Here we are, at home again, feeling decidedlytired, but having much enjoyed our holiday in the open air. We spent avery quiet day yesterday. In the afternoon I sketched an archway of rock. Then I went along the shore in search of Graham and William. The latterwas trying, without either hook or bait, to catch fish, and caught threecrawfish, one of which we had for supper. This morning we were up soonafter four and had our bathe; the sun was just rising. We returned toprepare breakfast. William was to have had the fire lit, but we found hehad used all his matches in vain. The fire was made to burn at last andbreakfast cooked and over, we packed our knapsacks and started for home. We got across the plain fairly well and down the cliff, which was not aneasy descent, on to the shore. It took us one hour and twenty-five minutesscrambling over the stones and boulders of the shore, and we went veryquickly, just taking a respite now and again. In some parts, where therehad been landslips, it was not safe to halt. We were glad when we got overthis part, but the worst was to come. The mountain had a heavy mist overit. Before we began to ascend it we sat in Anherstock Gulch and had lunch. We were very thirsty and the only water we could get was some rain-waterin the hollow of a rock. The ascent was steep, and before we had gone farrain came on. Then we had to walk along the side of the mountain in anarrow path bordered and overhung by dripping ferns. The last part wasvery steep and I kept stumbling over my wet skirt, and really if Williamhad not assisted me, I do not know how I should have got up. Graham had asmuch as he could do to drag up the load on his back. From the heightswhich we now reached we could see the Bluff and make out figures which weguessed were awaiting us. Before long we got down to them and found theywere Ellen and the children. She had brought donkeys and also a dry skirtand waterproof for me, which I was thankful to put on. The donkeys soonwere saddled and we set off home. The saddles were men's and lackedstirrups. We came home at a tremendous pace, and it was as much as I coulddo to stick on. Graham, relieved of his load, ran behind and kept thedonkey going. Knowing we were wet through, he would not listen to myentreaties to let the animals walk, so we raced the five miles home. As weneared the houses people came out to greet us, and were glad to see wewere safely back. Only a few of the women have been to Stony Beach, and Idoubt if any have been up the valley. In the evening the men came round, as is their custom on New Year's Eve, and in the intervals of playing anddrinking tea were most interested in hearing about our expedition. Theythink we went about thirty-two miles. 

CHAPTER XXXV

_Tuesday, January 5, 1909_. --We have had another excursion. Thinking wewould make the most of the holiday, yesterday we went with some of theyoung people up to the Ponds. It was our intention to start early, but theweather looked uncertain, so we waited awhile. At last we started off. Ourparty of eleven included Alfred, Maria and Johnny Green, William and SophyRogers, Emma Hagan, and Mary, Martha and Susan Repetto. We had a shortwalk over the sands going east, and then one of the stiff climbs, nowbecoming quite familiar, up the mountains, but we climbed leisurely, picking and eating berries as we went. It was a really hard climb at theend. Having reached the top we walked along a gulch, where I took twophotographs, and from there got on to a moor which was covered withhigh-growing ferns, making walking difficult. We had about three miles ofthis and then reached the Ponds. They are close together, and the top oneflows into the middle one and that again into the third. We descended tothe first and there sat down for lunch, and how thankful we were to restno words can say. Mary undertook the boiling of the water drawn from thepond; there was not much wood and a strong wind, and it seemed as if itwould never boil. After lunch, as it was blowing rather cold, we moved on, making a detour along the opposite hill round the second pond to thethird. The ponds lie in very deep, round basins, the sides of which inmany places are thick with trees. We did not attempt to go down to the twolast. Returning, we thought we would try a short cut across the moor tothe edge of the mountain. Andrew Hagan, who had joined us, advised us notto try this, but the spirit of adventure was upon us, and so we and thechildren set forth. We certainly got into many pitfalls. We had numeroussmall ravines to cross and their almost impossible banks to scramble up, and at times had to push our way through bushes and ferns. We came acrossa good many mollyhawks sitting on their nests, which they seem to frequentafter their young ones have flown. We saw one or two of the young; theyare so pretty and are covered with a blue fluffy down. It was not easy tokeep Rob and Scotty from molesting them. We clambered down the mountainfairly quickly. William most thoughtfully had told Ned to meet us with thedonkey, and I was most thankful for it. It was getting on for eight by thetime we got home. Graham thinks we must have been about fifteen miles. Ithink it was the most tiring expedition we have had, but do not regrethaving gone. The children enjoyed themselves immensely, and it wasdelightful to hear their peals of laughter; they were here, there, andeverywhere. 

_Tuesday, January_ l2. --Mr. Keytel is encountering many difficulties. Thefact is, the men are not pulling together, which is due to the new-comers, who have done an untold amount of mischief in every way. There aredivisions and quarrels among them, and their morals are bad. 

Six men who last week went to Inaccessible returned on Sunday. They hadhoped to do some sealing, but could not get into the cave. I am sorry tosay one of them purposely set fire to the tussock grass, which has beenburning for three days. The fire can be seen from here, twenty-five milesaway. The men say that thousands of birds must have been destroyed, as itis their nesting time. It is horrible to think of. 

We started school again last Monday, after more than a fortnight'sholiday. For some time the elder Swain girls have left off coming toschool, and now William means to leave; he is eighteen, and is wantedfor work. While I write I hear the cheerful strains of a concertina whichhe is playing. 

_Friday, January 15_. --Soon after four this morning the settlement wasawakened by terrific cries of "Sail, ho!" Some smoke was seen, and it wasfirst thought to be that of a steamer, but there was so much it seemed tobe a ship on fire. The men went off and did not get back till the evening, as they had a long distance to go. The ship was a whaler melting theblubber of a whale caught the night before. They had on deck the half ofthe head, inside of which men were digging with spades--which gives anidea of its size. The whale in Tristan waters is the Southern Right Whale. 

_Saturday, January 16_. --A vessel emerged from the mist to-day. In amarvellously short time the men were off to her. She was a Norwegian onebound for Australia, and had made a quick run of fourteen days from RioJaneiro. After the men returned in the evening they had to go off againwith sheep and potatoes to the whaler, which was standing out to the east. We sat on the cliff once more, looking at the busy scene on the beachand watching with interest the boys guiding down the steep road thebullock-carts, which at times looked as if they would heave over, andindeed one did. The men will probably not be back till the small hours ofthe morning, which will make a working-day of nearly twenty-four hours forthem, as they were up very early digging potatoes for the whaler. 

_Monday, January_ l8. --The men failed to catch the whaler on Saturdaynight. I suppose the captain had given them up and moved further out. Theygot back about 2 o'clock, and after a few hours' rest went off again toher, returning in the evening. This morning, just before starting forchurch, a third ship was sighted in the far distance. 

We have had rather uncertain weather lately, with a good deal of wind. Thelast few days have been hot and misty. The flower garden has not done verywell this year, partly due to the wind. 

The ship that was sighted to-day was another whaler. It was too breezyfor the men to go out to it, so they went to dig potatoes to be ready forto-morrow. 

_Wednesday, January_ 20. --In the late afternoon I was sketching themountains with the houses below, so as to give an idea of the great heightof the overshadowing cliffs. It was rather too ambitious a sketch. I satout on the plain right away from the houses. 

_Saturday, January_ 23. --Yesterday being Sophy Rogers' birthday, we wentin the afternoon for a picnic. The invited were all those who attend theknitting-class. We went a little way west and had tea in a ravine. MaryRepetto, who is generally the leading spirit, superintended the boiling ofthe water. Afterwards the girls had rounders on the plain, playing withgreat zest. It was amusing to watch their different characters. Mary, intensely in earnest and galloping round at terrific speed; at the sametime trying to keep every one else up to the mark; her face showingdispleasure or amusement with lightning rapidity. Her sister Martha, veryserious and looking rather harassed. Sophy, a tall, rather pretty girl, taking all in good part and entering into the game with great enjoyment. Maria, who is decidedly staid, playing well, but not letting herself go. Emma, the tallest of all, good-natured, and enjoying herself immensely, but taking things easily. Susan, as active as a young goat and full oflaughter. We joined for a game, but I was soon glad to take my place againas a spectator. 

_Thursday, January_ 28. --Most of the men are walling in new potatopatches. The young Swains are going to build a house. This will be thefirst that has been put up for at least ten years. The difficulty will beto get wood enough. The men do not care much for building. 

Graham talks of going up to the Peak again, and I may possibly go too; weshould not do it in a day, but camp out for at least one night. Thehardest part is the ascent from the settlement on to the Base. 

_Monday, February_ 1. --Last Saturday Henry had rather a bad fall from hisdonkey. He was going at a good pace when the crupper broke, and he wasthrown over the donkey's head on to the stony track. He hurt his neck, cuthis face, and the inside of his mouth. Calling this morning, I found hismouth was festering inside, and as he thought there was grit there, at hiswife's suggestion I syringed it. The grit had lodged in a hole, and ittook nearly an hour to dislodge it. Even then I was not sure it was allout, and so promised to go up again this afternoon, and, syringing again, more came out. I hope the wound may now heal quickly. 

Graham and Mr. Keytel have been exploring this afternoon. They wanted tofind the way to the Base from a certain point. I did not realize till theother day that when we climb to the Base we are considerably higher thanthe Malvern Hills. 

Mr. Keytel has had to throw away a great number of his dried fish. Somehad become fly-blown, and some mildewed. The north wind does so muchdamage in moistening things, and so causing food to spoil. 

_Monday, February_ 8. --This evening I was sitting on the common, havingjust finished sketching, when, looking up, I saw the poor sheep beingdriven hither and thither by one of Henry Green's dogs, which the girlswere powerless to stop. It ran the sheep to the edge of the cliff, andtwo, in their fright, ran down to the shore and one was nearly drowned. But the girls followed; and Martha got hold of the sheep by its tail andwith the assistance of the others drew it out of the sea. 

_Wednesday, February_ 10. --Most of the men have gone off to Inaccessible. The island has now been on fire for a month. 

_Friday, February_ 12. --This morning a ship was seen. Hearing it was awhaler, I went up to school as usual, and did not trouble about letters. In a few minutes Mr. Repetto looked in to ask for Mary, and said it was amerchant ship, and that the men were just going off. I flew home, got myletters and dispatched them by Johnny Green. Graham was just too late withhis. Soon after the three boats came back from Inaccessible. They had hadbad weather, and had only caught four seals. The cave in which they arecaught is very dark and has to be entered with lanterns, hence a good manygot away. The other men returned from the ship in the early evening. Wehear the captain would have been ready to take us. He was going toMelbourne. I am glad, though, not to go so far; it is a long round. As thetime gets nearer, so the desire becomes greater to see all our homepeople; but we must just await our time. 

[Illustration: ALL THE WOMEN AND CHILDREN]

_Saturday, February_ 13. --Tom has just been in and told us how well theydid on the ship yesterday. The captain was very kind. This morning therewas another cry of "Sail, ho!" Twenty-two went off and caught the ship. Itwas an English one, and again bound for Melbourne. Repetto asked thecaptain if he would give us a passage, but he said he had no room, as hehad already a passenger. I felt anxious as to whether we should have to gooff, and even began to collect some books, but, rather to my relief, onlooking out I saw the ship's sails going up again. Now that the prospectof getting home is so much in our thoughts it seems such a journey roundby Australia. I suppose it would take us six weeks to get there. 

Graham and Mr. Keytel have at last found the way up from the Goat Ridge tothe Base. Mr. Keytel ascended by rather a dangerous way, but managed tohold on and pull himself up. They were so late in coming home that I wentto Mrs. Repetto, and we both walked as far as the gulch to look for them;before long she saw them coming, greatly to my relief. 

_Monday, February_ l5. --William came in on Saturday night to show us awatch he had bought for five shillings from an apprentice on the lastship. He wanted to show his treasure at once. I only hope itwill go, but he does not seem to have any apprehensionson that score; it is a watch, and he possesses it!

In view of our leaving, Graham has given to Repetto the Bishop'scommission to hold a service every Sunday, to take baptisms, and toperform marriages. 

CHAPTER XXXVI

We have now quite made up our minds not to go by any ship bound forAustralia, as we have the _Greyhound_ to fall back upon. 

_Wednesday, February_ l7. --This afternoon, as I was contemplating a walkwith Graham, Susie Repetto came to ask me to go up and see Martha, who inchopping wood had cut her foot rather badly with an axe. I found she haddone it this morning; it was a bad gash on the top of the foot, and hadbled profusely. Her father had bound it up, and told them to ask me to goup and see to it this afternoon. It ought to have been sewn up, andRepetto intended to do that, but Lavarello dissuaded him. Repetto is quitea doctor--and surgeon too. When, a few years ago, old Susan Swain fell andbroke her left leg at the shin into splinters, he very cleverly set it, and she now walks about as well as ever, and shows no sign of lameness--even in spite of her not having altogether obeyed his instructions. Hisaccount of the setting is most amusing. He says he was never so hot in hislife. His great difficulty was to get at the fracture, for as soon as hepulled up the skirt to look at it, it was promptly pulled down again byone or another of the many bystanders. He was equally successful in twocases amongst his children, one of whom had her wrist, and the other hisshoulder dislocated. 

[_June_, 1910. --As I write this for the printer, news comes of a very sadaccident to poor little Florrie Swain, aged seven, by a stone falling uponher at Pig's-Bite. This is how Repetto writing on April 24 describes thecase:--

"I am little busy now about that I have to attend to little Florence whichshe as bough (both) legs brock below the neess but one of it she got threewonds one just below the nee about tow inches long and mor than a inchewide another on the brocken bon which the bon is entirely out about 3inches long and another large ones on top the foot which reach from onesside the enckel bone to the other and some more smoll ones also the sameleg I had operetion on her foot which I had to cut off the big toe and thenex to the big one and mor the alf of the underfoot All them see give herup but now she get on nisely . .. Beside Athur Rogers he had his hermdislocate so I am now cleagy and doctor. "]

_Thursday, February_ 18. --Ellen was _hors de combat_ to-day, consequentlyI have had a most domestic day. I swept the rooms, skimmed the milk, boiled the coffee and the eggs. After breakfast Mary came to help. Thoughonly thirteen, she has the capability of a girl of eighteen. She lookedafter the boiling of the milk, of which there was a bucketful, washed up, and cleaned the saucepans. These are done outside at the Watering andcleaned with sods. I did the bedroom, made a milk pudding and trimmed thelamp. It was then time for church. In the middle of the morning I had torun off to dress Martha's foot, which is doing well. She has to keep inbed, but does not seem to mind, as she is fond of reading. 

_Monday, February_ 22. --We have not had very much summer this year. To-dayis quite cold, and we are told there is snow on the Peak. 

_Thursday, February_ 25. --Mr. Keytel has met with many discouragements, but if the Government will grant him certain concessions he fully intendsto return. He said one day, "I think most men would have thrown the wholebusiness up"; and truly I think they would. 

_Thursday, March_ 4. --The vine on the house is growing at such a rate;rather more than a third of the front of the house is now covered with it, and it has actually grapes. Not much has been done in the garden this yearon account of the fowls, but we have had a few vegetables. The cucumbershave done well. I cut one a day or two ago, which was a monster. Therebeing no bees here, the blossoms have to be set. Tomatoes never seem toripen on the plant. 

_Wednesday, March_ 10. --Now that our time is probably so near to a closeit gives rather an unsettled feeling. The _Greyhound_ is expected in tendays' time. 

Yesterday every one, except Susan Swain, who has been ill, turned up atthe women's meeting--in all, twenty-one. At first few were able to followwhat was read, but now they enjoy it and laugh at the jokes. I always givea short address at the end, and only hope it may be a little help to them. 

To-day I found old Eliza Hagan here when I came back from school, andinduced her to stay to dinner. The Hagans were thrashing wheat in herhouse, so she was glad to get away. She is such a kind old soul, and neversays an unkind thing of any one. She is so big that I always tremble lestthe chair should give way. 

We often talk of the _Greyhound_ and how we shall manage on it. It isreally a question of where they can put us. I expect Ellen and I shallhave to sleep in the hold, and as for a place to have meals in, I do notbelieve there is any. I shall rather enjoy the experience of roughing itfor a time. It will be something to look back upon. 

[Illustration: ORANGES AND LEMONS]

_Thursday, March_ 11. --This morning Mrs. H. Green came with a present ofbutter and eggs, it being Alfred's birthday. She asked us to tea thisafternoon. We were just going to sit down to dinner, and made her join us. She went away directly afterwards, saying, "We must forgive her manners, for she must get home. " They were giving a birthday dinner. 

_Monday, March_ l5. --A ship was sighted this morning; it was lost sight offor a time, but later appeared again, when the men went out to it. 

This afternoon Mr. Keytel invited the school-children to his lawn, asquare grass-plot behind his house, where he took photographs of themplaying various games. It was intensely hot. Later we played games inearnest. On leaving each child received some prunes. 

The men got to the ship at dusk and did not return till the early morning. It was from London and going to Australia. The captain told the men thathe had seen in the paper that the _Pandora_ was coming here with the mail. The people are quite excited about this piece of news, which will givethem a subject for conversation for some time to come. 

_Friday, March_ 19. --On Wednesday a good many of the people went by boatto the orchards at Sandy Point, and brought back sacks of apples. 

We are quite proud of our cucumbers. To-day I measured one I brought in;it was close on a foot in circumference. I have never seen such fine onesat home, and I think these are more juicy. 

We wonder each day whether it will be our last here. 

_Saturday, March_ 20. --All eyes are scanning the ocean for the schooner, and I may add, for the _Pandora_. I think Mr. Keytel is beginning to feelhe will be glad to get away. 

One comes across curious types of human nature. The other day Bob Glasssent to ask if he could preach on Sundays at the church when we are gone. Graham replied, "No. " Then he came to see him and said he had got thelearning, but Graham pointed out to him that it was the life that wasneeded, and showed him that he had not this, because, to mention only onething, he was a notorious swearer, which he admitted. He came again thenext day or the day after to ask if his child could be baptized, and alsoto ask if he might preach on Saturday afternoon at the church-house, asthere were several of the boys who wanted to hear how he could do it. Thechild was baptized on Sunday. 

_Tuesday, March_ 23. --Ellen was amused the other day by one of the womentelling her that she had ready some nice fresh eggs for us when her turncame to serve us, which would be a week hence. 

We have been to look at the new house, which was begun yesterday. One sideis nearly up. The stone from an old cottage of Susan Swain's is beingused, which, being ready squared, saves a good deal of labour. Thefireplace, the most difficult part, was being built to-day. 

_Friday, March_ 26. --We go up each evening to look at the house. Thestonework will be nearly finished by to-morrow. The measurement is fortyfeet by twelve. 

_Monday, March_ 29. --Each day we expect to hear a cry of "Sail, ho!" andthat our time of departure has come, but, of course, here things must beuncertain, so we must just patiently wait. 

On Saturday, in passing over Hill Piece, Graham and I saw smoke, and, getting on to Burnt Hill, saw large burnt patches and smoke and flamesarising from various directions. Upon inquiry, we learnt that one of themen had fired a piece to see if he could procure stone there. He had neverput the fire out, and it has been burning for three months. Probably itwill cover a good deal of ground before it dies out, which will mean somuch loss of pasture for the cattle. Graham went to-day to see what hecould do by trenching and so cutting off a small plot. The soil was atburning heat quite a foot deep. 

CHAPTER XXXVII

On the _Svend Foyne_. 

_Monday, April_ 5. --Well, we are on our homeward road at last! I must goback and relate events from the beginning. On Wednesday afternoon, feelinga little tired, I had taken my chair outside in front of the cottage andnearly fell asleep. I fancied I heard a sound of "Sail, ho!" but thinkingit was the children at play, I thought no more of it, although Rob at oncelooked up. Presently two of the young girls rushed down to the house, calling out, "Three steamers from the westward. " I jumped up at once, andwe set to to collect everything that had to be packed. Mr. Keytel andRepetto appeared and told us the men would soon be starting for thesteamers, which were coming close in. It was arranged that Repetto shouldstay and Henry Green carry on the negotiations with the captain, who wasto be asked to run up a red flag if he were willing to take us. The mensoon got off, but were not able to intercept the steamer, which got infront of them, and it looked at one time as if there were no hope ofovertaking it. They hoisted a sail in hope of attracting the captain'sattention. Between our packing we kept anxiously looking out at them, andbefore very long went up to the Repettos' house, where we could seebetter. After some time of anxious watching the steamer seemed to beslowing down, and at last we saw the boats get alongside. There was aconcourse of women and children at the Repettos' house, and I shall notforget Mary's anxious little face as she keenly watched the movements ofthe steamer. When she saw it was slowing down she fled into the house. There I found her behind the door, weeping bitterly, as well as Martha, and did my best to comfort them. Before very long the boats came back andwe went down to the shore to hear the news. It seems that when the captainheard they had things for barter he said he did not want anything. ThenHenry Green called out could he have a few words with him, as he had amessage to give him from the minister. This was allowed; so Henry went onboard and put things so well that, after some consideration, the captainsaid he would take us, and would wait till eight that evening, and evenuntil ten. "No, " said Henry, "that won't do; it isn't fit weather for themto come off tonight; it'll be better to-morrow. " Finally the captain said, "I can't wait for them longer than eight o'clock to-morrow morning. Ifthey are not here by then I must go. " He was anxious to coal his two smallsteamers, and had come close to the island expecting to find smootherwater in which to do so. He told us afterwards he only took us because heknew how difficult it must be to get off the island. It was a reprieve toknow we had not to leave that night; it gave us time to go round and saygood-bye to all the old people. Some of them, especially Eliza Hagan, Betty Cotton and Martha Green, felt it very much. Mr. Keytel made up hismind to throw in his lot with us and not wait for his schooner. We were uptill midnight, and were up again soon after four, when it was quite dark. We had breakfast at half-past five, as Graham had arranged for a serviceat six. To this service men, women and children came to the number ofsixty. We had two hymns, "Jesu, meek and gentle, " and "Fight the goodfight, " two or three prayers, and a few words of farewell. Old Eliza, Susan Hagan and Betty followed us back into the house and stayed till itwas time to leave for the shore. We had prayer together and then we wentdown to the beach. Nearly every one was there to bid us good-bye. I thinkthe little boys were very happy, feeling they would have no more school, but the women and girls were almost in tears. The boats were at lastready, and we followed them as they were pushed to the brink of the water, then got in, and the men--waiting for an opportune moment, for there werebreakers--pushed off, sprang in and bent to their oars. It took abouthalf-an-hour to get to the ship, which was a large iron one. Our boatwaited close by till those in the first one had gone on board. One or twowaves had splashed into the boat, and I found myself sitting in a pool ofwater. When our turn came a grimy rope was put round our waists, and wehad to clamber up a steep iron ladder as best we could, coal-besmearedfaces looking down upon us from above. As soon as the baggage was on boardthe order was given to go ahead. Many of the men when they came to saygood-bye were in tears; Henry in particular seemed to feel the parting. Wewatched them getting into their boats and waved adieux as they sped ontheir way homeward. 

Now I must tell a little about the ship, which is a Norwegian whaler of4, 000 tons, and has accompanying it two little steamers, on each of whichis mounted a gun, from which the harpoon is shot. The captain is returningfrom the South Shetlands (south of Cape Horn), and has caught 392 whalesof two or three varieties. Below are 8, 000 barrels of oil, which he istaking to Cape Town to be sent on from there to an English or Scotchmarket. 

_Wednesday, April_ 7. --I forgot to mention that Joe Hagan, one of lastyear's arrivals and a very decent fellow, managed through Mr. Keytel toget a passage. 

The day we left there were clouds over Tristan, and to my disappointmentwe could not see the Peak, which I have not yet seen. The island wasvisible most of the day. We kept on deck all day, but towards evening oursea troubles began. Some of the oil being stored in tanks caused the shipto roll more than it ordinarily would. From that Thursday evening tillMonday morning neither Graham nor Ellen came up-stairs, and were reallyvery ill. I could just manage to get out of my bunk and crawl up-stairs onto the sofa in the tiny saloon, which was heaped up with our smallluggage, and was the home of the two dogs, Rob and Scotty. The utmost Iwas capable of these two days was twice a day to look in upon theinvalids. Happily, we had the kindest of stewards, with the softest ofvoices, who looked well after them, and Mr. Keytel did all he could. OnSunday there was a moderate gale, but Monday was calmer, and we allrevived and got out on deck. 

Ellen had been given some apples before starting, the islanders tellingher they were good for seasickness. Feeling a little revived, we thoughtwe would like to try them, so she brought us some. Presently I heard anexclamation from her, and found she was looking at the paper in which theapples had been wrapped. In putting them away she had recognized in thepaper a portrait of my eldest brother. On looking at the paper, I saw hisportrait and that of his intended bride, with a notice of his approachingmarriage. This was the first intimation I had of my brother's engagement. It seemed so curious that of all the papers that came from that ship, thisshould have been the one little bit of them to reach us, and that, too, after we had left the island. We always saw any papers brought from ships, but these from the London ship, which was boarded about a fortnight ago, did not come into our hands. 

Poor Graham is very much run down and looks as if he had put on twentyyears. It is the greatest mercy that we have come by this steamer and notby the schooner. 

It is quite an interest to watch the small steamers ploughing behind. Sometimes the waves wash right over their decks. As the sea is not smoothenough for them to be coaled from the large steamer, they have had to betaken in tow. This will delay our passage, but the captain expects to bein Table Bay on Thursday evening. We are having beautiful weather and areable to be on deck all day long. 

_Thursday, April_ 8, --We cannot feel thankful enough that we were givenpassages on this steamer. Mr. Keytel is glad too, and has been able tolearn a great deal about whaling from the captain, with whom he talks bythe hour. We cannot say too much of Captain Mitchelsen's kindness andgenerosity. When Mr. Keytel asked him what we were indebted to him, hewould hear of no payment, though Mr. Keytel urged it again and again. Atlast he said, "If you like you may pay the steward for the food, butnothing more. "

_Royal Hotel, Cape Town, Saturday, April_ 10, 1909. Here we are, and sothankful to be on shore. Thursday, our last night on board, was rather abad one; the ship rolled horribly, on account of slackening speed, andscarcely any one slept. We were astir betimes, and much enjoyed the beautyof the outline of coast. It was delightful to feast our eyes on the brightsunshiny shore dotted with red-roofed houses. It was a beautiful day, andTable Mountain and the town looked very fine as we rounded in. We anchoredin the Bay, and soon plying round us were numerous little motor-launches. The Port Doctor did not appear till long after the other officialsbecause, I suppose, it was Good Friday, and then had to go back forpapers. In consequence of this delay we did not leave the ship until theafternoon. The poor dogs were not even so fortunate, having to be leftbehind till the morrow to be passed by the veterinary surgeon. We embarkedon one of the launches, and I must say it was delightful to step ashoreand to enter what seemed to us almost a new world. 

That evening we found our way to the cathedral, and I think we could fromour hearts give thanks for all God's goodness to us. When we started forthfour years ago I rather dreaded facing the world, but all along our pathwe have met with the greatest kindness and have made many new friends. Inall we see God's guiding Hand; and very especially did the arrival of thesteamer at the very time we would have chosen make us feel conscious ofGod's loving kindness and tender care. 

APPENDICES

_A_. THE FAUNA AND FLORA OF TRISTAN

There is nothing peculiar to Tristan in either its Fauna or Flora. Of thebirds those we saw or heard most of were:--

 1. The Gony, the Wandering Albatross (_Diomedia exulans_). A few lay onInaccessible but none on Tristan. 2. The "Pe-o, " the Sooty Albatross (_Phoebetria fuliginosa_). Comes tonest in August, leaves in April. 3. The Molly, Yellow-nosed Mollyhawk (_Thalassogeron chlororhyncus_). Comes to nest in August, leaves in April. 4. The Sea-hen, the Southern Skua (_Stercorarius antarcticus_). Is inall the year, begins to lay in August. 5. The Black Eaglet, the Long-winged Fulmar (_Aestrelata Macroptera_). Comes in to moult in May; lays first week in July. 6. The White-breasted Black Eaglet. Lays in November. 7. The King-bird, the Kerguelen Tern (_Sterna Vittata_). Comes inSeptember, and lays in November. 8. The Wood-pigeon, the "Noddy" (_Anous Stolidus_). Comes in Septemberand lays in November. 9. The Night-bird, the Broad-billed Blue Petrel (_Prion Vittatus_). Comes in July and lays in September. 10. The "Pediunker, " lays in May and June; it is like a Petrel. We thinkit must be the Shearwater (_Profinus Cinereus_); of which we were told atthe South African Museum, Cape Town, that it frequents Scotland, and thatits nesting-place was unknown until Mr. Keytel brought a specimen of itand of its eggs from Tristan in 1909. 11. The Starchy, the Tristan Thrush (_Nesocictela_). A land bird. Nosong. 12. The Finch, the Tristan Finch (_Nesospiza Acunhae_). A land bird. 13. The Penguin, the Rock-hopper Penguin (_Catarrhactes Chrysocome_). Comes to moult in March; comes again in August and lays in September. Lastyear's young ones come to moult in December. 

The first name is the island name. "Pe-o" and "Pediunker" are attempts atspelling. 

The fish we saw at Tristan were:---

1. Whale, Southern Right Whale (_Balaena Australis_). 2. Sea-elephant. 3. Seal (_Arctocephalus pusillus_). 4. Shark. 5. Blue-fish (_Perca antarctica_). 6. Snoek (_Thyrsites atun_). 7. Mackerel (_Scomber Pneumatophorus_). 8. Five-finger (_Chilodactylus Fasciatus lac_). 9. Soldier-fish. 10. Craw-fish. 11. Clip-fish. 

Of the trees and plants those we most frequently met with were:---

 1. The Island Tree (_Phylica nitida_). Found also on the islands Gough, Amsterdam, Bourbon, and Mauritius. 2. Tussock (_Spartina Arundinacea_); distinct from the real Tussock(_Poa Flabellater_). "The geographical distribution of this grass isremarkable, being confined to the Tristan group and Gough Island, and theIslands of St. Paul and Amsterdam in the Indian Ocean, 3, 000 milesdistant" (Blue-book). 3. Flax. 4. Willow, a few trees on the settlement only. 5. Ferns and Mosses. 6. Prickle-bush, Gorse. A few bushes only near the houses. 7. Crowberry (_Empetrum nigrum_). 8. Nertera, bearing scarlet berries. 9. Blackberry. Scanty. 10. Cape-gooseberry. Once plentiful, now scarce. 11. Tea-plant (_Chenopodium Tomentosum_). 12. Wild Celery. 13. Large Field-Daisy. 14. Geranium (_Pelargonium Australe_). 15. Convolvolus. 16. Sunflower (_Oxalis_). 17. Buttercup. One patch only near Betty's house. 

_B_. THE WEATHER

From Feb. 15, 1908, to March 31, 1909, the lowest temperature as recordedin a Stevenson's screen was 37'9 degrees (Aug. 16, 1908), and the highest77'8 (March 14, 1909). 

The Rainfall and Sunshine records are as follows:--

 Rainfall Sun, all Sun, part Sun day of the day unrecorded

 1907 inches days days days

June 4-30 4'990 5 19 0July 9'635 4 18 3August 8'020 4 21 0September 7'465 7 11 1October 7'660 9 13 0November 6'015 11 14 1December 2'975 4 1 24 ______ 46'760

1908January 4. 565	 11	 12	 	 0February 6. 105 10	 12	 0March	 4. 360	 7	 17	 2April	 7. 605	 14	 8	 1May	 4. 305	 9	 21	 0June	 5. 775	 0	 25 0July	 4. 800	 5	 21	 0August	 6. 325	 8	 18 0September 6. 630	 3	 21 0October	 6. 675	 11	 9 0November 2. 440	 11	 8 0December 5. 255	 10	 10 0 ______ 64. 840

 1909January	 3. 060	 7	 19	 0February 4. 720	 11	 7	 3March	 5. 295	 9	 14	 1 ______ 13. 075

The following observations on the wind are derived from Andréa Repetto:--

The wind at Tristan generally changes from northward to westward orsouthward. The change begins with rain. A very light wind from thenorthward (NE. Or N. ) will spring up, and may last for a day or two; thenit becomes unsettled and with rain changes to the westward. But thisinitial wind may come from the NW. , W. , SW. , or S. This movement of thewind from the northward to westward or southward generally happens whenthe weather is settled and the wind is light, or in the warm season(spring, summer and autumn); but sometimes it happens in unsettledweather, in which case the rain pours down at once and the wind from thenorth lasts only a short time. When this northward wind begins inunsettled weather it changes to the south, as a rule, without staying atany of the intervening points, and does so with a heavy squall or shower. When the wind from the north is a light one it generally changes to alight one from the south; and when it is a heavy one from the north itgenerally changes to a heavy one from the south; this latter happensusually in the winter when the weather is for the most part unsettled. 

In the warm season when the wind is very light it very often goes roundthe four cardinal points every twenty-four hours for a week together. 

The wind hardly ever changes from the northward to the eastward. On thevery rare occasions when it may do so, the wind being very variable, itnever stands there but quickly returns to the northward. 

The wind may instantly change (_e. G_. After one shower) from northward tosouth; and sometimes from here (the south) it goes to SE. , where it maystay a week; if it gets as far as the east it will not stay for more thana day or two, but will go on to the NE. ; but it does not get so far as theE. More than once in a year, and perhaps not for two years, and alwayswithout rain. 

When the wind gradually changes from northward to the south it stays ashort time in the west, then as the day advances in the SW. , and gets tothe S. In the evening, each of those three movements being preceded bysqualls or showers. On reaching the S. It settles there for a day or two. If during this day or two there are showers a movement will begin. In themorning this movement will be without a shower from the S. To the W. ; butin the evening it will be with a shower back from the W. (to which it hadgone in the morning) to SW. Or S. This movement may last for a week ortwo. 

In fine weather when the wind springs from the northward the first day isgenerally fine and clear, then it becomes cloudy or dull for a day or evena fortnight; then it will change to the westward with a squall, or shower, or sometimes heavy rain. 

The wind never changes from the S. To northward without first dying downeither at once or gradually and without rain. But it may change from theSW. Or W. To northward without dying down and without rain. 

The wind from the E. Which visits the Isle so seldom generally begins withrain, though in the lee it is clear and the sun is shining at the time. Itlasts from two to six days at least. 

When the SE. Wind blows in unsettled weather, in the lee there will besunshine and clear weather. 

The winds from the W. , SW. , S. And SE. Are dry winds. The other winds, especially N. And NE. , are wet ones. 

C. SOME TRISTAN WORDS

1. _Allow_, to say. 

2. _Bawling_, lowing of a cow. 

3. _Bog_, a root or clump of tussock. 

4. _Bread_, ship's biscuits. 

5. _Cake_, bread. 

6. _Duff-headed cow_, a cow without horns. 

7. _Fancy_, pretty. 

8. _Gallied_, flustered. 

9. _Gutter_, a narrow grass-covered ravine. 

10. _Hardy_, a high rock in the sea at a little distance from the shore. 

11. _"I never, "_ I never did it. 

12. _Mary_, a chrysalis. 

13. _Ned_, a lob (in cricket). 

14. _Paddle_, to rake. 

15. _Quanking_, the cackling of geese. 

16. _Red Harry_, a red centipede. 

17. _Scouse_, milk and the yolk of two or three eggs boiled in it. 

18. _The Stitch_, lumbago. 

19. _Tissick_, a cough. 

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_Richard Clay & Sons Limited, London and Bungay. _