WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA

A Description of Its Soil, Climate, Productions, and Gold Mines;with the Best Routes and Latest Information for Intending Emigrants. 

By

EDWIN BRYANT

Late Alcade of San Francisco. 

To which is annexed, an Appendix

Containing official documents and letters authenticating the accountsof the quantities of gold found, with its actual value ascertained bychemical assay. 

Also late communications containing accounts of the highest interestand importance from the gold districts. 

With a Map. 

1849

"All which I saw, and part of which I was. " --_Dryden_. 

CHAPTER I. 

 Geographical sketch of California Its political and social institutions Colorado River Valley and river of San Joaquin Former government Presidios Missions Ports and commerce. 

For the general information of the reader, it will be proper to give abrief geographical sketch of California, and some account of itspolitical and social institutions, as they have heretofore existed. 

The district of country known geographically as Upper California isbounded on the north by Oregon, the forty-second degree of northlatitude being the boundary line between the two territories; on theeast by the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra de los Mimbres, acontinuation of the same range; on the south by Sonora and Old or LowerCalifornia, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its extent from northto south is about 700 miles, and from east to west from 600 to 800miles, with an area of about 400, 000 square miles. A small portion onlyof this extensive territory is fertile or inhabitable by civilized man, and this portion consists chiefly in the strip of country along thePacific Ocean, about 700 miles in length, and from 100 to 150 inbreadth, bounded on the east by the Sierra Nevada, and on the west bythe Pacific. In speaking of Upper California this strip of country iswhat is generally referred to. 

The largest river of Upper California is the Colorado or Red, which hasa course of about 1000 miles, and empties into the Gulf of Californiain latitude about 32 degrees north. But little is known of the regionthrough which this stream flows. The report of trappers, however, isthat the river is _canoned_ between high mountains and precipices alarge portion of its course, and that its banks and the countrygenerally through which it flows are arid, sandy, and barren. Green andGrand Rivers are its principal upper tributaries, both of which rise inthe Rocky Mountains, and within the territories of the United States. The Gila is its lowest and largest branch, emptying into the Colorado, just above its mouth. Sevier and Virgin Rivers are also tributaries ofthe Colorado. Mary's River rises near latitude 42 degrees north, andhas a course of about 400 miles, when its waters sink in the sands ofthe desert. This river is not laid down on any map which I have seen. The Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers have each a course of from 300 to400 miles, the first flowing from the north and the last from thesouth, and both emptying into the Bay of St. Francisco at the samepoint. They water the large and fertile valley lying between the SierraNevada and the coast range of mountains. I subjoin a description of thevalley and river San Joaquin, from the pen of a gentleman (Dr. Marsh)who has explored the river from its source to its mouth. 

"This noble valley is the first undoubtedly in California, and one ofthe most magnificent in the world. It is about 500 miles long, withan-average width of about fifty miles. It is bounded on the east by thegreat Snowy Mountains, and on the west by the low range, which in manyplaces dwindles into insignificant hills, and has its northern terminusat the Strait of Carquines, on the Bay of San Francisco, and itssouthern near the Colorado River. 

"The river of San Joaquin flows through the middle of the valley forabout half of its extent, and thence diverges towards the easternmountain, in which it has its source. About sixty miles further southis the northern end of the Buena Vista Lake, which is about one hundredmiles long, and from ten to twenty wide. Still farther south, and nearthe western side of the valley, is another and much smaller lake. 

"The great lake receives about a dozen tributaries on its eastern side, which all rise in the great range of the Snowy Mountains. Some of thesestreams flow through broad and fertile valleys within the mountain'srange, and, from thence emerging, irrigate the plains of the greatvalley for the distance of twenty or thirty miles. The largest of theserivers is called by the Spanish inhabitants the river Reyes, and fallsinto the lake near its northern end; it is a well-timbered stream, andflows through a country of great fertility and beauty. The tributariesof the San Joaquin are all on the east side. 

"On ascending the stream we first meet with the Stanislaus, a clearrapid mountain stream, some forty or fifty yards wide, with aconsiderable depth of water in its lower portion. The Mormons havecommenced a settlement, called New Hope, and built some two or threehouses near the mouth. 

"There are considerable bodies of fertile land along the river, and thehigher plains afford good pasturage. 

"Ten miles higher up is the river of the Tawalomes; it is about thesize of the Stanislaus, which it greatly resembles, except that thesoil is somewhat better, and that it particularly abounds with salmon. 

"Some thirty miles farther comes in the Merced, much the largest of thetributaries of the San Joaquin. The lands along and between thetributaries of the San Joaquin and the lake of Buena Vista form a finepastoral region, with a good proportion of arable land, and a veryinviting field for emigration. The whole of this region has been butimperfectly explored; enough, however, is known to make it certain thatit is one of the most desirable regions on the continent. 

"In the valleys of the rivers which come down from the great SnowyMountains are vast bodies of pine, and red-wood, or cedar timber, andthe streams afford water power to any desirable amount. 

"The whole country east of the San Joaquin, and the water communicationwhich connects it with the lakes, is considered, by the best judges, tobe particularly adapted to the culture of the vine, which mustnecessarily become one of the principal agricultural resources ofCalifornia. "

The Salinas River empties into the Pacific, about twelve miles aboveMonterey. Bear River empties into the Great Salt Lake. The otherstreams of California are all small. In addition to the Great Salt Lakeand the Utah Lake there are numerous small lakes in the Sierra Nevada. The San Joaquin is connected with Tule Lake, or Lake Buena Vista, asheet of water about eighty miles in length and fifteen in breadth. Alake, not laid down in any map, and known as the _Laguna_ among theCalifornians, is situated about sixty miles north of the Bay of SanFrancisco. It is between forty and sixty miles in length. The valleysin its vicinity are highly fertile, and romantically beautiful. In thevicinity of this lake there is a mountain of pure sulphur. There arealso soda springs, and a great variety of other mineral waters, andminerals. 

The principal mountains west of the eastern boundary of California (theRocky Mountains) are the Bear River, Wahsatch, Utah, the Sierra Nevada, and the Coast range. The Wahsatch Mountains form the eastern rim of the"great interior basin. " There are numerous ranges in this desert basin, all of which run north and south, and are separated from each other byspacious and barren valleys and plains. The Sierra Nevada range is ofgreater elevation than the Rocky Mountains. The summits of the mostelevated peaks are covered with perpetual snow. This and the coastrange run nearly parallel with the shore of the Pacific. The first isfrom 100 to 200 miles from the Pacific, and the last from forty tosixty miles. The valley between them is the most fertile portion ofCalifornia. 

Upper California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanishnavigator. In 1578, the northern portion of it was visited by SirFrancis Drake, who called it New Albion. It was first colonized by theSpaniards, in 1768, and formed a province of Mexico until after therevolution in that country. There have been numerous revolutions andcivil wars in California within the last twenty years; but up to theconquest of the country by the United States in 1846, Mexican authorityhas generally been exercised over it. 

The following description of the political and social condition ofUpper California in 1822 is extracted and translated from a Spanishwriter of that date. I have thought that the extract would not beuninteresting:--

"_Government_. --Upper California, on account of its small population, not being able to become a state of the great Mexican republic, takesthe character of territory, the government of which is under the chargeof a commandant-general, who exercises the charge of a superiorpolitical chief, whose attributes depend entirely upon the president ofthe republic and the general congress. But, to amplify the legislationof its centre, it has a deputation made up of seven vocals, the half ofthese individuals being removed every two years. The superior politicalchief presides at their sessions. The inhabitants of the territory aredivided amongst the presidios, missions, and towns. 

"_Presidios_. --The necessity of protecting the apostolic predicationwas the obligatory reason for forming the presidios, which wereestablished according to circumstances. That of San Diego was thefirst; Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco were builtafterwards. The form of all of them is nearly the same, and this is asquare, containing about two hundred yards in each front, formed of aweak wall made of mud-bricks. Its height may be four yards in theinterior of the square, and built on to the same wall. In its entirecircumference are a chapel, storehouses, and houses for the commandant, officers, and troops, having at the entrance of the presidio quartersfor a _corps-de-garde_. 

"These buildings in the presidios, at the first idea, appear to havebeen sufficient, the only object having been for a defence against asurprise from the gentiles, or wild Indians in the immediate vicinity. But this cause having ceased, I believe they ought to be demolished, asthey are daily threatening a complete ruin, and, from the very limitedspaces of habitation, must be very incommodious to those who inhabitthem. As to the exterior of the presidios, several private individualshave built some very decent houses, and, having evinced great emulationin this branch of business, I have no doubt but in a short time weshall see very considerable towns in California. 

"At the distance of one, or at the most two miles from the presidio, and near to the anchoring-ground, is a fort, which has a few pieces ofartillery of small calibre. The situation of most of them is veryadvantageous for the defence of the port, though the form of the walls, esplanades, and other imperfections which may be seen, make them veryinsignificant. 

"The battalion of each presidio is made up of eighty or more horsesoldiers, called _cuera_; besides these, it has a number of auxiliarytroops and a detachment of artillery. The commandant of each presidiois the captain of its respective company, and besides the intervention, military and political, he has charge of all things relating to themarine department. 

"_Missions_. --The missions contained in the territory are twenty-one. They were built at different epochs: that of San Diego, being thefirst, was built in 1769; its distance from the presidio of the samename is two leagues. The rest were built successively, according tocircumstances and necessity. The last one was founded in the year 1822, under the name of San Francisco Dolores, and is the most northern ofall. 

"The edifices in some of those missions are more extensive than inothers, but in form they are all nearly equal. They are all fabricatedof mud-bricks, and the divisions are according to necessity. In all ofthem may be found commodious habitations for the ministers, storehousesto keep their goods in, proportional granaries, offices forsoap-makers, weavers, blacksmiths, and large parterres, and horse andcattle pens, independent apartments for Indian youths of each sex, andall such offices as were necessary at the time of its institution. Contiguous to and communicating with the former is a church, forming apart of the edifices of each mission; they are all very proportionable, and are adorned with profusion. 

"The Indians reside about two hundred yards distant from theabove-mentioned edifice. This place is called the rancheria. Most ofthe missions are made up of very reduced quarters, built withmud-bricks, forming streets, while in others the Indians have beenallowed to follow their primitive customs; their dwellings being a sortof huts, in a conical shape, which at the most do not exceed four yardsin diameter, and the top of the cone may be elevated three yards. Theyare built of rough sticks, covered with bulrushes or grass, in such amanner as to completely protect the inhabitants from all theinclemencies of the weather. In my opinion, these rancherias are themost adequate to the natural uncleanliness of the Indians, as thefamilies often renew them, burning the old ones, and immediatelybuilding others with the greatest facility. Opposite the rancherias, and near to the mission, is to be found a small garrison, withproportionate rooms, for a corporal and five soldiers with theirfamilies. This small garrison is quite sufficient to prevent anyattempt of the Indians from taking effect, there having been someexamples made, which causes the Indians to respect this small force. One of these pickets in a mission has a double object; besides keepingthe Indians in subjection, they run post with a monthly correspondence, or with any extraordinaries that may be necessary for government. 

"All the missions in this California are under the charge of religiousmen of the order of San Francisco. At the present time their number istwenty-seven, most of them of an advanced age. Each mission has one ofthese fathers for its administrator, and he holds absolute authority. The tilling of the ground, the gathering of the harvest, theslaughtering of cattle, the weaving, and everything that concerns themission, is under the direction of the fathers, without any otherperson interfering in any way whatever, so that, if any one mission hasthe good fortune to be superintended by an industrious and discreetpadre, the Indians disfrute in abundance all the real necessaries oflife; at the same time the nakedness and misery of any one mission area palpable proof of the inactivity of its director. The missions extendtheir possessions from one extremity of the territory to the other, andhave made the limits of one mission from those of another. Though theydo not require all this land for their agriculture and the maintenanceof their stock, they have appropriated the whole; always stronglyopposing any individual who may wish to settle himself or his family onany piece of land between them. But it is to be hoped that the newsystem of illustration, and the necessity of augmenting privateproperly, and the people of reason, will cause the government to takesuch adequate measures as will conciliate the interests of all. Amongstall the missions there are from twenty-one to twenty-two thousandCatholic Indians; but each mission has not an equal or a proportionatepart in its congregation. Some have three or four thousand, whilstothers have scarcely four hundred; and at this difference may becomputed the riches of the missions in proportion. Besides the numberof Indians already spoken of, each mission has a considerable number ofgentiles, who live chiefly on farms annexed to the missions. The numberof these is undetermined. 

"The Indians are naturally filthy and careless, and their understandingis very limited. In the small arts they are not deficient in ideas ofimitation but they never will be inventors. Their true character isthat of being revengeful and timid, consequently they are very muchaddicted to treachery. They have no knowledge of benefits received, andingratitude is common amongst them. The education they receive in theirinfancy is not the proper one to develope their reason, and, if itwere, I do not believe them capable of any good impression. All theseIndians, whether from the continual use of the sweat-house, or fromtheir filthiness, or the little ventilation in their habitations, areweak and unvigorous; spasms and rheumatics, to which they are so muchsubject, are the consequences of their customs. But what most injuresthem, and prevents propagation, is the venereal disease, which most ofthem have very strongly, clearly proving that their humours areanalogous to receiving the impressions of this contagion. From thisreason may be deduced the enormous differences between the births anddeaths, which, without doubt, is one-tenth per year in favour of thelatter; but the missionaries do all in their power to prevent this, with respect to the catechumens situated near them. 

"The general productions of the missions are, the breed of the largerclass of cattle, and sheep, horses, wheat, maize or Indian corn, beans, peas, and other vegetables; though the productions of the missionssituated more to the southward are more extensive, these producing thegrape and olive in abundance. Of all these articles of production, themost lucrative is the large cattle, their hides and tallow affording anactive commerce with foreign vessels on this coast. This being the onlymeans the inhabitants, missionaries, or private individuals have ofsupplying their actual necessities, for this reason they give thisbranch all the impulse they possibly can, and on it generally place alltheir attention. 

"It is now six years since they began to gather in hides and tallow forcommerce. Formerly they merely took care of as many or as much as theyrequired for their own private use, and the rest was thrown away asuseless; but at this time the actual number of hides sold annually onboard of foreign vessels amounts to thirty or forty thousand, and aboutthe same amount of arrobas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow; and, inpursuing their present method, there is no doubt but in three or fouryears the amount of the exportation of each of these articles will bedoubled. Flax, linen, wine, olive-oil, grain, and other agriculturalproductions, would be very extensive if there were stimulants to exciteindustry; but, this not being the case, there is just grain enough sownand reaped for the consumption of the inhabitants in the territory. 

"The towns contained in this district are three; the most populousbeing that of Angeles, which has about twelve hundred souls; that ofSt. Joseph's of Guadaloupe may contain six hundred, and the village ofBranciforte two hundred; they are all formed imperfectly and withoutorder, each person having built his own house on the spot he thoughtmost convenient for himself. The first of these pueblos is governed byits corresponding body of magistrates, composed of an alcalde or judge, four regidores or municipal officers, a syndic, and secretary; thesecond, of an alcalde, two regidores, a syndic, and secretary; and thethird, on account of the smallness of its population, is subject to thecommandancia of Monterey. 

"The inhabitants of the towns are white, and, to distinguish them fromthe Indians, are vulgarly called _people of reason_. The number ofthese contained in the territory may be nearly five thousand. Thesefamilies are divided amongst the pueblos and presidios. They are nearlyall the descendants of a small number of individuals who came from theMexican country, some as settlers, others in the service of the army, and accompanied by their wives. In the limited space of little morethan fifty years the present generation has been formed. 

"The whites are in general robust, healthy, and well made. Some of themare occupied in breeding and raising cattle, and cultivating smallquantities of wheat and beans; but for want of sufficient land, forwhich they cannot obtain a rightful ownership, their labours are verylimited. Others dedicate themselves to the service of arms. All thepresidial companies are composed of the natives of the country, but themost of them are entirely indolent, it being very rare for anyindividual to strive to augment his fortune. Dancing, horse-riding, andgambling occupy all their time. The arts are entirely unknown, and I amdoubtful if there is one individual who exercises any trade; very fewwho understand the first rudiments of letters, and the other sciencesare unknown amongst them. 

"The fecundity of the _people of reason_ is extreme. It is very rare tofind a married couple with less than five or six children, while thereare hundreds who have from twelve to fifteen. Very few of them die intheir youth, and in reaching the age of puberty are sure to see theirgrand-children. The age of eighty and one hundred has always beencommon in this climate; most infirmities are unknown here, and thefreshness and robustness of the people show the beneficial influence ofthe climate; the women in particular have always the roses stamped ontheir cheeks. This beautiful species is without doubt the most activeand laborious, all their vigilance in duties of the house, thecleanliness of their children, and attention to their husbands, dedicating all their leisure moments to some kind of occupation thatmay be useful towards their maintenance. Their clothing is always cleanand decent, nakedness being entirely unknown in either sex. 

"_Ports and Commerce_. --There are four ports, principal bays, in thisterritory, which take the names of the corresponding presidios. Thebest guarded is that of San Diego. That of San Francisco has manyadvantages. Santa Barbara is but middling in the best part of theseason; at other times always bad. Besides the above-mentioned places, vessels sometimes anchor at Santa Cruz, San Luis Obispo, El Refugio, San Pedro, and San Juan, that they may obtain the productions of themissions nearest these last-mentioned places; but from an order sent bythe minister of war, and circulated by the commandante-general, we aregiven to understand that no foreign vessel is permitted to anchor atany of these places, Monterey only excepted, notwithstanding thecommandante-general has allowed the first three principal ports toremain open provisionally. Were it not so, there would undoubtedly bean end to all commerce with California, as I will quickly show. 

"The only motive that induces foreign vessels to visit this coast isfor the hides and tallow which they barter for in the territory. It iswell known, that at any of these parts there is no possibility ofrealizing any money, for here it does not circulate. The goods importedby foreign vessels are intended to facilitate the purchase of theaforesaid articles, well knowing that the missions have no interest inmoney, but rather such goods as are necessary for the Indians, so thatseveral persons who have brought goods to sell for nothing but moneyhave not been able to sell them. It will appear very extraordinary thatmoney should not be appreciated in a country where its value is so wellknown; but the reason may be easily perceived by attending to thecircumstances of the territory. 

"The quantity of hides gathered yearly is about thirty or fortythousand; and the arrobas of tallow, with very little difference, willbe about the same. Averaging the price of each article at two dollars, we shall see that the intrinsic value in annual circulation inCalifornia is 140, 000 dollars. This sum, divided between twenty-onemissions, will give each one 6666 dollars. Supposing the onlyproduction of the country converted into money, with what would theIndians be clothed, and by what means would they be able to cover athousand other necessaries? Money is useful in amplifying speculations;but in California, as yet, there are no speculations, and itproductions are barely sufficient for the absolute necessaryconsumption. The same comparison may be made with respect to privateindividuals, who are able to gather a few hides and a few arrobas oftallow, these being in small quantities. "

CHAPTER II. 

 Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco Cosçumne River Mickélemes River Ford of the San Joaquin Extensive plain Tule marshes Large droves of wild horses and elk Arrive at Dr. Marsh's Vineyard Californian grape Californian wine Aguardiénte Mormon settlements on the San Joaquin Californian beef Cattle Grasses of California Horses Breakfast Leave Dr. Marsh's Arrive at Mr. Livermore's Comforts of his dwelling Large herds of cattle Sheep Swine Californian senora Slaughtering of a bullock Fossil oyster-shells Skeleton of a whale on a high mountain Arrive at mission of San José Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission Pedlars Landlady Filth Gardens of the mission Fruit orchards Empty warehouses and workshops Foul lodgings. 

_September 13th_. --We commenced to-day our journey from New Helvetia toSan Francisco. Our party consisted, including myself, of ColonelRussell, Dr. McKee of Monterey, Mr. Pickett, a traveller in thecountry, recently from Oregon, and an Indian servant, who had beenfurnished us by Captain Sutter. Starting about 3 o'clock P. M. , wetravelled in a south course over a flat plain until sunset, andencamped near a small lake on the rancho of Mr. Murphy, near theCosçumne River, a tributary of the Sacramento, which heads near thefoot of the Sierra Nevada. The stream is small, but the bottom-landsare extensive and rich. Mr. Murphy has been settled in California abouttwo years, and, with his wife and several children, has resided at thisplace sixteen months, during which time he has erected a comfortabledwelling-house, and other necessary buildings and conveniences. Hiswheat crop was abundant this year; and he presented us with as muchmilk and fresh butter as we desired. The grass on the upland plain overwhich we have travelled is brown and crisp from the annual drought. Inthe low bottom it is still green. Distance 18 miles. 

_September 14_. --We crossed the Cosçumne River about a mile from ourcamp, and travelled over a level plain covered with luxuriant grass, and timbered with the evergreen oak, until three o'clock, when wecrossed the Mickélemes River, another tributary of the Sacramento, andencamped on its southern bank in a beautiful grove of live oaks. TheMickélemes, where we crossed it, is considerably larger than theCosçumnes. The soil of the bottom appears to be very rich, and producesthe finest qualities of grasses. The grass on the upland is alsoabundant, but at this time it is brown and dead. We passed throughlarge tracts of wild oats during the day; the stalks are generally fromthree to five feet in length. 

Our Indian servant, or vaquero, feigned sickness this morning, and wedischarged him. As soon as he obtained his discharge, he was entirelyrelieved from the excruciating agonies under which he had affected tobe suffering for several hours. Eating his breakfast, and mounting hishorse, he galloped off in the direction of the fort. We overtook thisafternoon an English sailor, named Jack, who was travelling towardsMonterey; and we employed him as cook and hostler for the remainder ofthe journey. 

A variety of autumnal flowers, generally of a brilliant yellow, are inbloom along the beautiful and romantic bunks of the rivulet. Distance25 miles. 

_September 15_. --Our horses were frightened last night by bears, andthis morning, with the exception of those which were picketed, hadstrayed so far that we did not recover them until ten o'clock. Ourroute has continued over a flat plain, generally covered with luxuriantgrass, wild oats, and a variety of sparkling flowers. The soil iscomposed of a rich argillaceous loam. Large tracts of the land areevidently subject to annual inundations. About noon we reached a smalllake surrounded by _tule_. There being no trail for our guidance, weexperienced some difficulty in shaping our course so as to strike theSan Joaquin River at the usual fording place. Our man Jack, by someneglect or mistake of his own, lost sight of us, and we were compelledto proceed without him. This afternoon we saw several large droves ofantelope and deer. Game of all kinds appears to be very abundant inthis rich valley. Passing through large tracts of _tule_, we reachedthe San Joaquin River at dark, and encamped on the eastern bank. Herewe immediately made large fires, and discharged pistols as signals toour man Jack, but he did not come into camp. Distance 35 miles. 

_September 16_. --Jack came into camp while we were breakfasting, leading his tired horse. He had bivouacked on the plain, and, fearfulthat his horse would break loose if he tied him, he held the animal bythe bridle all night. 

The ford of the San Joaquin is about forty or fifty miles from itsmouth. At this season the water is at its lowest stage. The stream atthe ford is probably one hundred yards in breadth, and our animalscrossed it without much difficulty, the water reaching about midway oftheir bodies. Oak and small willows are the principal growth of woodskirting the river. Soon after we crossed the San Joaquin this morningwe met two men, couriers, bearing despatches from Commodore Stockton, the governor and commander-in-chief in California, to Sutter's Fort. Entering upon the broad plain, we passed, in about three miles, a smalllake, the water of which was so much impregnated with alkali as to beundrinkable. The grass is brown and crisp, but the seed upon it isevidence that it had fully matured before the drought affected it. Theplain is furrowed with numerous deep trails, made by the droves of wildhorses, elk, deer, and antelope, which roam over and graze upon it. Thehunting sportsman can here enjoy his favourite pleasure to its fullestextent. 

Having determined to deviate from our direct course, in order to visitthe rancho of Dr. Marsh, we parted from Messrs. McKee and Pickett aboutnoon. We passed during the afternoon several _tule_ marshes, with whichthe plain of the San Joaquin is dotted. At a distance, the tule ofthese marshes presents the appearance of immense fields of ripenedcorn. The marshes are now nearly dry, and to shorten our journey wecrossed several of them without difficulty. A month earlier, this wouldnot have been practicable. I have but little doubt that these marsheswould make fine rice plantations, and perhaps, if properly drained, they might produce the sugar-cane. 

While pursuing our journey we frequently saw large droves of wildhorses and elk grazing quietly upon the plain. No spectacle of movinglife can present a more animated and beautiful appearance than a herdof wild horses. They were divided into droves of some one or twohundred. When they noticed us, attracted by curiosity to discover whatwe were, they would start and run almost with the fleetness of the windin the direction towards us. But, arriving within a distance of twohundred yards, they would suddenly halt, and after bowing their necksinto graceful curves, and looking steadily at us a few moments, withloud snortings they would wheel about and bound away with the samelightning speed. These evolutions they would repeat several times, until, having satisfied their curiosity, they would bid us a finaladieu, and disappear behind the undulations of the plain. 

The herds of elk were much more numerous. Some of them numbered atleast two thousand, and with their immense antlers presented, whenrunning, a very singular and picturesque appearance. We approached someof these herds within fifty yards before they took the alarm. Beef inCalifornia is so abundant, and of so fine a quality, that game is butlittle hunted, and not much prized, hence the elk, deer, and evenantelope are comparatively very tame, and rarely run from thetraveller, unless he rides very near them. Some of these elk are aslarge as a medium-sized Mexican mule. 

We arrived at the rancho of Dr. Marsh about 5 o'clock P. M. , greatlyfatigued with the day's ride. The residence of Dr. M. Is romanticallysituated, near the foot of one of the most elevated mountains in therange separating the valley of the San Joaquin from the plainsurrounding the Bay of San Francisco. It is called "Mount Diablo, " andmay be seen in clear weather a great distance. The dwelling of Dr. M. Is a small one-story house, rudely constructed of adobes, and dividedinto two or three apartments. The flooring is of earth, like the walls. A table or two, and some benches and a bed, are all the furniture itcontains. Such are the privations to which those who settle in newcountries must submit. Dr. M. Is a native of New England, a graduate ofHarvard University, and a gentleman of fine natural abilities andextensive scientific and literary acquirements. He emigrated toCalifornia some seven or eight years since, after having travelledthrough most of the Mexican States. He speaks the Spanish languagefluently and correctly, and his accurate knowledge of Mexicaninstitutions, laws, and customs was fully displayed in his conversationin regard to them. He obtained the grant of land upon which he nowresides, some ten or twelve miles square, four or fire years ago; andalthough he has been constantly harassed by the wild Indians, who haveseveral times stolen all his horses, and sometimes numbers of hiscattle, he has succeeded in permanently establishing himself. Thepresent number of cattle on his rancho is about two thousand, and theincrease of the present year he estimates at five hundred. 

I noticed near the house a vegetable garden, with the usual variety ofvegetables. In another inclosure was the commencement of an extensivevineyard, the fruit of which (now ripe) exceeds in delicacy of flavourany grapes which I have ever tasted. This grape is not indigenous, butwas introduced by _the padres_, when they first established themselvesin the country. The soil and climate of California have probablyimproved it. Many of the clusters are eight and ten inches in length, and weigh several pounds. The fruit is of medium size, and in colour adark purple. The rind is very thin, and when broken the pulp dissolvesin the mouth immediately. Although Dr. M. Has just commenced hisvineyard, he has made several casks of wine this year, which is now ina stale of fermentation. I tasted here, for the first time, _aguardiénte_, or brandy distilled from the Californian grape. Itsflavour is not unpleasant, and age, I do not doubt, would render itequal to the brandies of France. Large quantities of wine and_aguardiénte_ are made from the extensive vineyards farther south. Dr. M. Informed me that his lands had produced a hundredfold of wheatwithout irrigation. This yield seems almost incredible; but, if we canbelieve the statements of men of unimpeached veracity, there have beennumerous instances of reproduction of wheat in California equalling andeven exceeding this. 

Some time in July, a vessel arrived at San Francisco from New York, which had been chartered and freighted principally by a party of Mormonemigrants, numbering between two and three hundred, women and childrenincluded. These Mormons are about making a settlement for agriculturalpurposes on the San Joaquin River, above the rancho of Dr. Marsh. Twoof the women and one of the men are now here, waiting for the return ofthe main party, which has gone up the river to explore and select asuitable site for the settlement. The women are young, neatly dressed, and one of them may be called good-looking. Captain Gant, formerly ofthe U. S. Army, in very bad health, is also residing here. He hascrossed the Rocky Mountains eight times, and, in various trappingexcursions, has explored nearly every river between the settlements ofthe United States and the Pacific Ocean. 

The house of Dr. Marsh being fully occupied, we made our beds in ashed, a short distance from it. Suspended from one of the poles formingthe frame of this shed was a portion of the carcass of a recentlyslaughtered beef. The meat was very fat, the muscular portions of itpresenting that marbled appearance, produced by a mixture of the fatand lean, so agreeable to the sight and palate of the epicure. Thehorned cattle of California, which I have thus far seen, are thelargest and the handsomest in shape which I ever saw. There iscertainly no breed in the United States equalling them in size. They, as well as the horses, subsist entirely on the indigenous grasses, atall seasons of the year; and such are the nutritious qualities of theherbage, that the former are always in condition for slaughtering, andthe latter have as much flesh upon them as is desirable, unless (whichis often the case) they are kept up at hard work and denied theprivilege of eating, or are broken down by hard riding. The varietiesof grass are very numerous, and nearly all of them are heavily seededwhen ripe, and are equal, if not superior, as food for animals, to cornand oats. The horses are not as large as the breeds of the UnitedStates, but in point of symmetrical proportions and in capacity forendurance they are fully equal to our best breeds. The distance we havetravelled to-day I estimate at thirty-five miles. 

_September 17_. --The temperature of the mornings is most agreeable, andevery other phenomenon accompanying it is correspondingly delightful tothe senses. Our breakfast consisted of warm bread, made of unboltedflour, stewed beef, seasoned with _chile colorado_, a species of redpepper, and _frijoles_, a dark-coloured bean, with coffee. Afterbreakfast I walked with Dr. Marsh to the summit of a conical hill, about a mile distant from his house, from which the view of the plainon the north, south, and east, and the more broken and mountainouscountry on the west, is very extensive and picturesque. The hills andthe plain are ornamented with the evergreen oak, sometimes in clumps orgroves, at others standing solitary. On the summits, and in the gorgesof the mountains, the cedar, pine, and fir display their tallsymmetrical shapes; and the San Joaquin, at a distance of about tenmiles, is belted by a dense forest of oak, sycamore, and smaller timberand shrubbery. The herds of cattle are scattered over the plain, --someof them grazing upon the brown but nutritious grass; others shelteringthemselves from the sun under the wide-spreading branches of the oaks. The _tout ensemble_ of the landscape is charming. 

Leaving Dr. Marsh's about three o'clock P. M. , we travelled fifteenmiles, over a rolling and well-watered country, covered generally withwild oats, and arrived at the residence of Mr. Robert Livermore justbefore dark. We were most kindly and hospitably received, andentertained by Mr. L. And his interesting family. After our mules andbaggage had been cared for, we were introduced to the principal room inthe house, which consisted of a number of small adobe buildings, erected apparently at different times, and connected together. Here wefound chairs, and, for the first time in California, saw a side-boardset out with glass tumblers and chinaware. A decanter of _aguardiénte_, a bowl of loaf sugar, and a pitcher of cold water from the spring, wereset before us, and, being duly honoured, had a most reviving influenceupon our spirits as well as our corporeal energies. Suspended from thewalls of the room were numerous coarse engravings, highly coloured withgreen, blue, and crimson paints, representing the Virgin Mary, and manyof the saints. These engravings are held in great veneration by thedevout Catholics of this country. In the corners of the room were twocomfortable-looking beds, with clean white sheets and pillow-cases, asight with which my eyes have not been greeted for many months. 

The table was soon set out, and covered with a linen cloth of snowywhiteness, upon which were placed dishes of stewed beef, seasoned with_chile Colorado, frijoles_, and a plentiful supply of _tortillas_, withan excellent cup of tea, to the merits of which we did ample justice. Never were men blessed with better appetites than we are at the presenttime. 

Mr. Livermore has been a resident of California nearly thirty years, and, having married into one of the wealthy families of the country, isthe proprietor of some of the best lands for tillage and grazing. An_arroyo_, or small rivulet fed by springs, runs through his rancho, insuch a course that, if expedient, he could, without much expense, irrigate one or two thousand acres. Irrigation in this part ofCalifornia, however, seems to be entirely unnecessary for theproduction of wheat or any of the small grains. To produce maize, potatoes, and garden vegetables, irrigation is indispensable. Mr. Livermore has on his rancho about 3500 head of cattle. His horses, during the late disturbances, have nearly all been driven off or stolenby the Indians. I saw in his corral a flock of sheep numbering severalhundred. They are of good size, and the mutton is said to be of anexcellent quality, but the wool is coarse. It is, however, well adaptedto the only manufacture of wool that is carried on in thecountry, --coarse blankets and _serápes_. But little attention is paidto hogs here, although the breeds are as fine as I have ever seenelsewhere. Beef being so abundant, and of a quality so superior, porkis not prized by the native Californians. 

The Senora L. Is the first Hispano-American lady I have seen sincearriving in the country. She was dressed in a white cambric robe, loosely banded round the waist, and without ornament of any kind, except several rings on her small delicate fingers. Her complexion isthat of a dark brunette, but lighter and more clear than the skin ofmost Californian women. The dark lustrous eye, the long black andglossy hair, the natural ease, grace, and vivacity of manners andconversation, characteristic of Spanish ladies, were fully displayed byher from the moment of our introduction. The children, especially twoor three little _senoritas_, were very beautiful, and manifested aremarkable degree of sprightliness and intelligence. One of thempresented me with a small basket wrought from a species of tough grass, and ornamented with the plumage of birds of a variety of brilliantcolours. It was a beautiful specimen of Indian ingenuity. 

Retiring to bed about ten o'clock, I enjoyed, the first time for fourmonths, the luxury of clean sheets, with a mattress and a soft pillow. My enjoyment, however, was not unmixed with regret, for I noticed thatseveral members of the family, to accommodate us with lodgings in thehouse, slept in the piazza outside. To have objected to sleeping in thehouse, however, would have been considered discourteous and offensive. 

_September 18_. --Early this morning a bullock was brought up andslaughtered in front of the house. The process of slaughtering a beefis as follows: a _vaquero_, mounted on a trained horse, and providedwith a lasso, proceeds to the place where the herd is grazing. Selecting an animal, he soon secures it by throwing the noose of thelasso over the horns, and fastening the other end around the pommel ofthe saddle. During the first struggles of the animal for liberty, whichusually are very violent, the vaquero sits firmly in his seat, andkeeps his horse in such a position that the fury and strength of thebeast are wasted without producing any other result than his ownexhaustion. The animal, soon ascertaining that he cannot releasehimself from the rope, submits to be pulled along to the place ofexecution. Arriving here, the vaquero winds the lasso round the legs ofthe doomed beast, and throws him to the ground, where he lies perfectlyhelpless and motionless. Dismounting from his horse, he then takes fromhis leggin the butcher-knife that he always carries with him, andsticks the animal in the throat. He soon bleeds to death, when, in anincredibly short space of time for such a performance, the carcass isflayed and quartered, and the meat is either roasting before the fireor simmering in the stew-pan. The _lassoing_ and slaughter of a bullockis one of the most exciting sports of the Californians; and the daringhorsemanship and dexterous use of the lariat usually displayed on theseoccasions are worthy of admiration. I could not but notice theGolgotha-like aspect of the grounds surrounding the house. The bones ofcattle were thickly strewn in all directions, showing a terribleslaughter of the four-footed tribe and a prodigious consumption offlesh. 

A _carretada_ of fossil oyster--shells was shown to me by Mr. Livermore, which had been hauled for the purpose of being manufacturedinto lime. Some of these shells were eight inches in length, and ofcorresponding breadth and thickness. They were dug from a hill two orthree miles distant, which is composed almost entirely of this fossil. Several bones belonging to the skeleton of a whale, discovered by Mr. L. On the summit of one of the highest elevations in the vicinity ofhis residence, were shown to me. The skeleton when discovered wasnearly perfect and entirely exposed, and its elevation above the levelof the sea between one and two thousand feet. How the huge aquaticmonster, of which this skeleton is the remains, managed to make his drybed on the summit of an elevated mountain, more experienced geologiststhan myself will hereafter determine. I have an opinion on the subject, however; but it is so contrary in some respects to the receivedgeological theories, that I will not now hazard it. 

Leaving Mr. Livermore's about nine o'clock A. M. , we travelled three orfour miles over a level plain, upon which immense herds of cattle weregrazing. When we approached, they fled from us with as much alarm asherds of deer and elk. From this plain we entered a hilly country, covered to the summits of the elevations with wild oats and tufts orhunches of a species of grass, which remains green through the wholeseason. Cattle were scattered through these hills, and more sumptuousgrazing they could not desire. Small streams of water, fed by springs, flow through the hollows and ravines, which, as well as the hill-sides, are timbered with the evergreen oak and a variety of smaller trees. About two o'clock, P. M. , we crossed an _arroyo_ which runs through anarrow gorge of the hills, and struck an artificial wagon-road, excavated and embanked so as to afford a passage for wheeled vehiclesalong the steep hill-side. A little farther on we crossed a very rudelyconstructed bridge. These are the first signs of road-making I haveseen in the country. Emerging from the hills, the southern arm of theBay of San Francisco came in view, separated from us by a broad andfertile plain, some ten or twelve miles in width, sloping graduallydown to the shore of the bay, and watered by several small creeks andestuaries. 

We soon entered through a narrow street the mission of San José, or St. Joseph. Passing the squares of one-story adobe buildings once inhabitedby thousands of busy Indians, but now deserted, roofless, and crumblinginto ruins, we reached the plaza in front of the church, and themassive two-story edifices occupied by the _padres_ during theflourishing epoch of the establishment. These were in good repair; butthe doors and windows, with the exception of one, were closed, andnothing of moving life was visible except a donkey or two, standingnear a fountain which gushed its waters into a capacious stone trough. Dismounting from our mules, we entered the open door, and here we foundtwo Frenchmen dressed in sailor costume, with a quantity of coarseshirts, pantaloons, stockings, and other small articles, together with_aguardiénte_, which they designed retailing to such of the natives inthe vicinity as chose to become their customers. They were itinerantmerchants, or pedlars, and had opened their wares here for a day or twoonly, or so long as they could find purchasers. 

Having determined to remain here the residue of the day and the night, we inquired of the Frenchmen if there was any family in the place thatcould furnish us with food. They directed us to a house on the oppositeside of the plaza, to which we immediately repaired. The senora, adark-skinned and rather shrivelled and filthy specimen of the fair sex, but with a black, sparkling, and intelligent eye, met us at the door ofthe miserable hovel, and invited us in. In one corner of this wretchedand foul abode was a pile of raw hides, and in another a heap of wheat. The only furniture it contained were two small benches, or stools, oneof which, being higher than the other, appeared to have beenconstructed for a table. We informed the senora that we weretravellers, and wished refreshment and lodgings for the night. "_Estabueno, senores, esta bueno_, " was her reply; and she immediately leftus, and, opening the door of the kitchen, commenced the preparation ofour dinner. The interior of the kitchen, of which I had a good viewthrough the door, was more revolting in its filthiness than the room inwhich we were seated. In a short time, so industrious was our hostess, our dinner, consisting of two plates of jerked beef, stewed, andseasoned with _chile colorado_, a plate of _tortillas_, and a bowl ofcoffee, was set out upon the most elevated stool. There were no knives, forks, or spoons, on the table. Our amiable landlady apologized forthis deficiency of table-furniture, saying that she was "_muy pobre_"(very poor), and possessed none of these table implements. "Fingerswere made before forks, " and in our recent travels we had learned touse them as substitutes, so that we found no difficulty in conveyingthe meat from the plates to our mouths. 

Belonging to the mission are two gardens, inclosed by high adobe walls. After dinner we visited one of these. The area of the inclosurecontains fifteen or twenty acres of ground, the whole of which wasplanted with fruit trees and grape-vines. There are about six hundredpear trees, and a large number of apple and peach trees, all bearingfruit in great abundance and in full perfection. The quality of thepears is excellent, but the apples and peaches are indifferent. Thegrapes have been gathered, as I suppose, for I saw none upon the vines, which appeared healthy and vigorous. The gardens are irrigated withvery little trouble, from large springs which flow from the hills ashort distance above them. Numerous aqueducts, formerly conveying anddistributing water over an extensive tract of land surrounding themission, are still visible, but as the land is not now cultivated, theyat present contain no water. 

The mission buildings cover fifty acres of ground, perhaps more, andare all constructed of adobes with tile roofs. Those houses or barrackswhich were occupied by the Indian families are built in compactsquares, one story in height. They are generally partitioned into tworooms, one fronting on the street, the other upon a court or corral inthe rear. The main buildings of the mission are two stories in height, with wide corridors in front and rear. The walls are massive, and, ifprotected from the winter rains, will stand for ages. But if exposed tothe storms by the decay of the projecting roofs, or by leaks in themain roof, they will soon crumble, or sink into shapeless heaps of mud. I passed through extensive warehouses and immense rooms, once occupiedfor the manufacture of woollen blankets and other articles, with therude machinery still standing in them, but unemployed. Filth anddesolation have taken the place of cleanliness and busy life. Thegranary was very capacious, and its dimensions were an evidence of theexuberant fertility of the soil, when properly cultivated under thesuperintendence of the _padres_. The calaboose is a miserable dark roomof two apartments, one with a small loop-hole in the wall, the other adungeon without light or ventilation. The stocks, and several otherinventions for the punishment of offenders, are still standing in thisprison. I requested permission to examine the interior of the church, but it was locked up, and no person in the mission was in possession ofthe key. Its length I should suppose is from one hundred to one hundredand twenty feet, and its breadth between thirty and forty, with smallexterior pretensions to architectural ornament or symmetry ofproportions. 

Returning from our rambles about the mission, we found that ourlandlady had been reinforced by an elderly woman, whom she introducedas "_mi madre_, " and two or three Indian _muchachas_, or girls, clad ina costume not differing much from that of our mother Eve. The latterwere obese in their figures, and the mingled perspiration and filthstanding upon their skins were any thing but agreeable to the eye. Thetwo senoras, with these handmaids near them, were sitting in front ofthe house, busily engaged in executing some needlework. 

Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that shehad a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of thenight, and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be muchoffended with her. She had therefore directed her _muchachas_ to sweepout one of the deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square, to which we could remove our baggage, and in which we could lodgeduring the night; and as soon as the necessary preparations were made, we retired to our dismal apartment. The "compound of villanous smells"which saluted our nostrils when we entered our dormitory for the nightaugured unfavourably for repose. The place had evidently been the abodeof horses, cattle, pigs, and foul vermin of every description. But withthe aid of a dark-coloured tallow-candle, which gave just light enoughto display the murkiness and filth surrounding us, we spread our bedsin the cleanest places, and laid down to rest. Distance travelled, 18miles. 

CHAPTER III. 

 Armies of fleas Leave the mission Clover Wild mustard A carreta Family travelling Arrive at Pueblo de San José Capt. Fisher Description of the Pueblo The embarcadero Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo Absence of architectural taste in California Town squirrels Fruit garden Grapes Tropical fruits Gaming rooms Contrast between California and American gamesters Leave San José Beautiful avenue Mission of Santa Clara Rich but neglected lands Effects of a bad government A senora on the road-side Kindness of Californian women Fast riding Cruel treatment of horses Arrive at the mission of San Francisco A poor but hospitable family Arrive at the town of San Francisco W. A. Leidesdorff, Esq. , American vice-consul First view of the bay of San Francisco Muchachos and Muchachas Capt. Montgomery U. S. Sloop-of-war, Portsmouth Town of San Francisco; its situation, appearance, population Commerce of California Extortion of the government and traders. 

_September 19_. --Several Californians came into the mission during thenight or early this morning; among them the husband of our hostess, whowas very kind and cordial in his greetings. 

While our man Jack was saddling and packing the mules, they gatheredaround us to the number of a dozen or more, and were desirous oftrading their horses for articles of clothing; articles which many ofthem appeared to stand greatly in need of, but which we had not to partfrom. Their pertinacity exceeded the bounds of civility, as I thought;but I was not in a good humour, for the fleas, bugs, and other vermin, which infested our miserable lodgings, had caused me a sleepless night, by goring my body until the blood oozed from the skin in countlessplaces. These ruinous missions are prolific generators, and thenurseries of vermin of all kinds, as the hapless traveller who tarriesin them a few hours will learn to his sorrow. When these bloodthirstyassailants once make a lodgment in the clothing or bedding of theunfortunate victim of their attacks, such are their courage andperseverance, that they never capitulate. "Blood or death" is theirmotto;--the war against them, to be successful, must be a war ofextermination. 

Poor as our hostess was, she nevertheless was reluctant to receive anycompensation for her hospitality. We, however, insisted upon herreceiving a dollar from each of us (_dos pesos_), which she finallyaccepted; and after shaking us cordially by the hand she bade us anaffectionate _adios_, and we proceeded on our journey. 

From the Mission of San José to the Pueblo of San José, the distance isfifteen miles, for the most part over a level and highly fertile plain, producing a variety of indigenous grasses, among which I noticedseveral species of clover and mustard, large tracts of which we rodethrough, the stalks varying from six to ten feet in height. The plainis watered by several _arroyos_, skirted with timber, generally theevergreen oak. 

We met this morning a Californian _carreta_, or travelling-cart, freighted with women and children, bound on a pleasure excursion. The_carreta_ is the rudest specimen of the wheeled vehicle I have seen. The wheels are transverse sections of a log, and are usually about2-1/2 feet in diameter, and varying in thickness from the centre to therim. These wheels are coupled together by an axletree, into which atongue is inserted. On the axletree and tongue rests a frame, constructed of square pieces of timber, six or eight feet in length, and four or five in breadth, into which are inserted a number of stakesabout, four feet in length. This frame-work being covered and flooredwith raw hides, the carriage is complete. The _carreta_ which we metwas drawn by two yokes of oxen, driven by an Indian vaquero, mounted ona horse. In the rear were two _caballeros_, riding fine spiritedhorses, with gaudy trappings. They were dressed in steeple-crownedglazed _sombreros, serapes_ of fiery colours, velvet (cotton)_calzoneros_, white cambric _calzoncillos_, and leggins and shoes ofundressed leather. Their spurs were of immense size. 

The party halted as soon as we met them, the men touching their heavy_sombreros_, and uttering the usual salutation of the morning, "_Buenosdios, senores_, " and shaking hands with us very cordially. The samesalutation was repeated by all the senoras and senoritas in the_carreta_. In dress and personal appearance the women of this partywere much inferior to the men. Their skins were dark, sallow, andshrivelled; and their costume, a loose gown and _reboso_, were made ofvery common materials. The children, however, were all handsome, withsparkling eyes and ruddy complexions. Women and children were seated, _à la Turque_, on the bottom of the _carreta_, there being no raisedseats in the vehicle. 

We arrived at the Pueblo do San José about twelve o'clock. There beingno hotels in California, we were much at a loss where to apply forrefreshments and lodgings for the night. Soon, however, we were met byCaptain Fisher, a native of Massachusetts, but a resident of thiscountry for twenty years or more, who invited us to his house. We weremost civilly received by Senora F. , who, although she did not speakEnglish, seemed to understand it very well. She is a native of thesouthern Pacific coast of Mexico, and a lady of fine manners andpersonal appearance. Her oldest daughter, about thirteen years of age, is very beautiful. An excellent dinner was soon set out, with a varietyof the native wines of California and other liquors. We could not havefelt ourselves more happy and more at home, even at our own firesidesand in the midst of our own families. 

The Pueblo de San José is a village containing some six or eighthundred inhabitants. It is situated in what is called the "PuebloValley, " about fifteen miles south of the southern shore of the Bay ofSan Francisco. Through a navigable creek, vessels of considerableburden can approach the town within a distance of five or six miles. The _embarcadero_, or landing, I think, is six miles from the Pueblo. The fertile plain between this and the town, at certain seasons of theyear, is sometimes inundated. The "Pueblo Valley, " which is eighty orone hundred miles in length, varying from ten to twenty in breadth, iswell watered by the Rio Santa Clara and numerous _arroyos_, and is oneof the most fertile and picturesque plains in California. For pastoralcharms, fertility of soil, variety of productions, and deliciousvoluptuousness of climate and scenery, it cannot be surpassed. Thisvalley, if properly cultivated, would alone produce breadstuffs enoughto supply millions of population. The buildings of the Pueblo, with fewexceptions, are constructed of adobes, and none of them have even thesmallest pretensions to architectural taste or beauty. The church, which is situated near the centre of the town, exteriorly resembles ahuge Dutch barn. The streets are irregular, every man having erectedhis house in a position most convenient to him. Aqueducts convey waterfrom the Santa Clara River to all parts of the town. In the main plazahundreds, perhaps thousands, of squirrels, whose abodes are underground, have their residences. They are of a brownish colour, and aboutthe size of our common gray squirrel. Emerging from their subterraneousabodes, they skip and leap about over the plaza without the leastconcern, no one molesting them. 

The population of the place is composed chiefly of native Californianland-proprietors. Their ranchos are in the valley, but their residencesand gardens are in the town. We visited this afternoon the garden ofSenor Don Antonio Sugnol. He received us with much politeness, andconducted us through his garden. Apples, pears, peaches, figs, oranges, and grapes, with other fruits which I do not now recollect, weregrowing and ripening. The grape-vines were bowed to the ground with theluxuriance arid weight of the yield; and more delicious fruit I nevertasted. From the garden we crossed over to a flouring-mill recentlyerected by a son-in-law of Don Antonio, a Frenchman by birth. The millis a creditable enterprise to the proprietor, and he will coin moneyfrom its operations. 

The Pueblo de San José is one of the oldest settlements in AltaCalifornia. Captain Fisher pointed out to me a house built of adobes, which has been standing between 80 and 90 years, and no house in theplace appeared to be more substantial or in better repair. A garrison, composed of marines from the United States' ships, and volunteersenlisted from the American settlers in the country, is now stationedhere. The post is under the command of Purser Watmough, of the UnitedStates sloop-of-war Portsmouth, commanded by Captain Montgomery. Duringthe evening I visited several public places (bar-rooms), where I sawmen and women engaged promiscuously at the game of _monte_. Gambling isa universal vice in California. All classes and both sexes participatein its excitements to some extent. The games, however, while I waspresent, were conducted with great propriety and decorum so far as thenative Californians were concerned. The loud swearing and otherturbulent demonstrations generally proceeded from the unsuccessfulforeigners. I could not but observe the contrast between the two racesin this respect. The one bore their losses with stoical composure andindifference; the other announced each unsuccessful bet with profaneimprecations and maledictions. Excitement prompted the hazards of theformer, avarice the latter. 

_September 20_. --The morning was cloudy and cool; but the clouds brokeaway about nine o'clock, and the sun shone from a vapourless sky, asusual. We met, at the Pueblo, Mr. Grove Cook, a native of Gerrardcounty, Ky. , but for many years a resident of California. He is theproprietor of a rancho in the vicinity. We determined to leave ourmules in charge of Mr. Cook's vaquero, and proceed to San Francisco onhired horses. The distance from the Pueblo de San José to San Franciscois called sixty miles. The time occupied in performing the journey, onCalifornian horses at Californian speed, is generally six or sevenhours. Procuring horses for the journey, and leaving our baggage, withthe exception of a change of clothing, we left the Pueblo about eleveno'clock A. M. 

The mission of Santa Clara is situated about two and a half miles fromthe town. A broad _alameda_, shaded by stately trees (elms andwillows), planted by the _padres_, extends nearly the entire distance, forming a most beautiful drive or walk for equestrians or pedestrians. The motive of the _padres_ in planting this avenue was to afford thedevout senoras and senoritas a shade from the sun, when walking fromthe Pueblo to the church at the mission to attend mass. A few minutesover the smooth level road, at the rapid speed of our fresh Californianhorses, brought us to the mission, where we halted to make ourobservations. This mission is not so extensive in its buildings as thatof San José, but the houses are generally in better repair. They areconstructed of adobes; the church was open, and, entering the interior, I found the walls hung with coarse paintings and engravings of thesaints, etc. , etc. The chancel decorated with numerous images, andsymbolical ornaments used by the priests in their worship. Gold-paper, and tinsel, in barbaric taste, are plastered without stint upon nearlyevery object that meets the eye, so that, when on festive occasions thechurch is lighted, it must present a very glittering appearance. 

The rich lands surrounding the mission are entirely neglected. I didnot notice a foot of ground under cultivation, except the gardeninclosure, which contained a variety of fruits and plants of thetemperate and tropical climates. From want of care these are fastdecaying. Some excellent pears were furnished us by Mrs. Bennett, anAmerican lady, of Amazonian proportions, who, with her family of sons, has taken up her residence in one of the buildings of the mission. Thepicture of decay and ruin presented by this once flourishingestablishment, surrounded by a country so fertile and scenery soenchanting, is a most melancholy spectacle to the passing traveller, and speaks a language of loud condemnation against the government. 

Proceeding on our journey, we travelled fifteen miles over a flatplain, timbered with groves and parks of evergreen oaks, and coveredwith a great variety of grasses, wild oats, and mustard. So rank is thegrowth of mustard in many places, that it is with difficulty that ahorse can penetrate through it. Numerous birds flitted from tree totree, making the groves musical with their harmonious notes. Theblack-tailed deer bounded frequently across our path, and the lurkingand stealthy _coyotes_ were continually in view. We halted at a smallcabin, with a _corral_ near it, in order to breathe our horses, andrefresh ourselves. Captain Fisher had kindly filled a small sack withbread, cheese, roasted beef, and a small jug of excellent schiedam. Entering the cabin, the interior of which was cleanly, we found asolitary woman, young, neatly dressed, and displaying many personalcharms. With the characteristic ease and grace of a Spanish woman, shegave the usual salutation for the hour of the day, "_Buenas tardes, senores caballeros_;" to which we responded by a suitable salutation. We requested of our hostess some water, which she furnished usimmediately, in an earthen bowl. Opening our sack of provisions, wespread them upon the table, and invited the senora to partake of themwith us, which invitation she accepted without the slightesthesitation, and with much good-nature, vivacity, and even thankfulnessfor our politeness. There are no women in the world for whose mannersnature has done so much, and for whom art and education, in thisrespect, have done so little, as these Hispano-American females on thecoast of the Pacific. In their deportment towards strangers they arequeens, when, in costume, they are peasants. None of them, according toour tastes, can be called beautiful; but what they want in complexionand regularity of feature is fully supplied by their kindliness, thesoul and sympathy which beam from their dark eyes, and their grace andwarmth of manners and expression. 

While enjoying the _pic-nic_ with our agreeable hostess, a _caballada_was driven into the _corral_ by two _vaqueros_, and two gentlemen soonafter came into the house. They were Messrs. Lightson and Murphy, fromthe Pueblo, bound for San Francisco, and had stopped to change theirhorses. We immediately made ready to accompany them, and were soon onthe road again, travelling at racehorse speed; these gentlemen havingfurnished us with a change of horses, in order that we might be able tokeep up with them. 

To account for the fast travelling in California on horseback, it isnecessary to explain the mode by which it is accomplished. A gentlemanwho starts upon a journey of one hundred miles, and wishes to performthe trip in a day, will take with him ten fresh horses and a _vaquero_. The eight loose horses are placed under the charge of the _vaquero_, and are driven in front, at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, according to the speed that is required for the journey. At the end oftwenty miles, the horses which have been rode are discharged and turnedinto the _caballada_, and horses which have not been rode, but drivenalong without weight, are saddled and mounted and rode at the samespeed, and so on to the end of the journey. If a horse gives out frominability to proceed at this gait, he is left on the road. The owner'sbrand is on him, and, if of any value, he can be recovered withoutdifficulty. But in California no one thinks of stopping on the road, onaccount of the loss of a horse, or his inability to travel at the rateof ten or twelve miles an hour. Horseflesh is cheap, and the animalmust go as long as he can, and when he cannot travel longer he is left, and another horse is substituted. 

Twenty-five miles, at a rapid gait over a level and fertile plain, brought us to the rancho of Don Francisco Sanchez, where we halted tochange horses. Breathing our animals a short time, we resumed ourjourney, and reached the mission of San Francisco Dolores, three milesfrom the town of San Francisco, just after sunset. Between the missionand the town the road is very sandy, and we determined to remain herefor the night, _corraling_ the loose animals, and picketing those werode. It was some time, however, before we could find a house to lodgein. The foreign occupants of the mission buildings, to whom we appliedfor accommodations for the night, gave us no satisfaction. Afterseveral applications, we were at last accommodated by an old and verypoor Californian Spaniard, who inhabited a small house in one of theruinous squares, formerly occupied by the operative Indians. All that hehad (and it was but little) was at our disposal. A more miserablesupper I never sat down to; but the spirit of genuine hospitality inwhich it was given imparted to the poor viands a flavour that renderedthe entertainment almost sumptuous--in my imagination. A cup of watercheerfully given to the weary and thirsty traveller, by him who has nomore to part with, is worth a cask of wine grudgingly bestowed by thestingy or the ostentatious churl. Notwithstanding we preferred sleepingon our own blankets, these poor people would not suffer us to do it, but spread their own pallets on the earth floor of their miserable hut, and insisted so strongly upon our occupying them, that we could notrefuse. 

_September 21_. --We rose at daylight. The morning was clear, and ourhorses were shivering with the cold. The mission of San Francisco issituated at the northern terminus of the fertile plain over which wetravelled yesterday, and at the foot, on the eastern side, of the coastrange of mountains. These mountains are of considerable elevation. Theshore of the Bay of San Francisco is about two miles distant from themission. An _arroyo_ waters the mission lands, and empties into thebay. The church of the mission, and the main buildings contiguous, arein tolerable repair. In the latter, several Mormon families, whicharrived in the ship Brooklyn from New York, are quartered. As in theother missions I have passed through, the Indian quarters are crumblinginto shapeless heaps of mud. 

Our aged host, notwithstanding he is a pious Catholic, and considers usas heretics and heathens, gave us his benediction in a very impressivemanner when we were about to start. Mounting our horses at sunrise, wetravelled three miles over low ridges of sand-hills, with sufficientsoil, however, to produce a thick growth of scrubby evergreen oak, andbrambles of hawthorn, wild currant and gooseberry bushes, rose bushes, briers, etc. We reached the residence of Wm. A. Leidesdorff, Esq. , lateAmerican vice-consul at San Francisco, when the sun was about an hourhigh. The morning was calm and beautiful. Not a ripple disturbed theplacid and glassy surface of the magnificent bay and harbour, uponwhich rested at anchor thirty large vessels, consisting of whalemen, merchantmen, and the U. S. Sloop-of-war Portsmouth, Captain Montgomery. Besides these, there were numerous small craft, giving to the harbour acommercial air, of which some of the large cities on the Atlantic coastwould feel vain. The bay, from the town of San Francisco due east, isabout twelve miles in breadth. An elevated range of hills bounds theview on the opposite side. These slope gradually down, and between themand the shore there is a broad and fertile plain, which is called the_Contra Costa_. There are several small islands in the bay, but they donot present a fertile appearance to the eye. 

We were received with every mark of respectful attention and cordialhospitality by Mr. Leidesdorff. Mr. L. Is a native of Denmark; was forsome years a resident of the United States; but subsequently thecaptain of a merchant vessel, and has been established at this place asa merchant some five or six years. The house in which he resides, nowunder the process of completion, is the largest private building in thetown. Being shown to a well-furnished room, we changed ourtravel-soiled clothing for a more civilized costume, by which timebreakfast was announced, and we were ushered into a large dining-hall. In the centre stood a table, upon which was spread a substantialbreakfast of stewed and fried beef, fried onions, and potatoes, bread, butter, and coffee. Our appetites were very sharp, and we did fulljustice to the merits of the fare before us. The servants waiting uponthe table were an Indian _muchachito_ and _muchachita_, about ten ortwelve years of age. They had not been long from their wild_rancherias_, and knew but little of civilized life. Our host, however, who speaks, I believe, nearly every living language, whether ofChristian, barbarian, or savage nations, seemed determined to impressupon their dull intellects the forms and customs of civilization. Hescolded them with great vivacity, sometimes in their own tongue, sometimes in French, Spanish, Portuguese, Danish, German, and English, in accordance with the language in which he was thinking at the moment. It seemed to me that the little fat Indians were more confused thanenlightened by his emphatic instructions. At the table, besidesourselves and host, was Lieutenant W. A. Bartlett, of the U. S. Sloop-of-war Portsmouth, now acting as Alcalde of the town and districtof San Francisco. 

The Portsmouth, Commander Montgomery, is the only United States vesselof war now lying in the harbour. She is regarded as the finest vesselof her class belonging to our navy. By invitation of LieutenantBartlett, I went on board of her between ten and eleven o'clock. Thecrew and officers were assembled on deck to attend Divine service. Theywere all dressed with great neatness, and seemed to listen with deepattention to the Episcopal service and a sermon, which were read byCommander Montgomery, who is a member of the church. 

In the afternoon I walked to the summit of one of the elevated hills inthe vicinity of the town, from which I had a view of the entrance tothe bay of San Francisco and of the Pacific Ocean. A thick fog hungover the ocean outside of the bay. The deep roar of the eternallyrestless waves, as they broke one after another upon the beach, ordashed against the rock-bound shore, could be heard with greatdistinctness, although some five or six miles distant. The entrancefrom the ocean into the bay is about a mile and half in breadth. Thewaters of the bay appear to have forced a passage through the elevatedridge of hills next to the shore of the Pacific. These rise abruptly oneither side of the entrance. The water at the entrance and inside is ofsufficient depth to admit the largest ship that was ever constructed;and so completely land-locked and protected from the winds is theharbour, that vessels can ride at anchor in perfect safety in all kindsof weather. The capacity of the harbour is sufficient for theaccommodation of all the navies of the world. 

The town of San Francisco is situated on the south side of theentrance, fronting on the bay, and about six miles from the ocean. Theflow and ebb of the tide are sufficient to bring a vessel to theanchorage in front of the town and carry it outside, without the aid ofwind, or even against an unfavourable wind. A more approachableharbour, or one of greater security, is unknown to navigators. Thepermanent population of the town is at this time between one and twohundred, [1] and is composed almost exclusively of foreigners. There arebut two or three native Californian families in the place. Thetransient population, and at present it is quite numerous, consists ofthe garrison of marines stationed here, and the officers and crewsattached to the merchant and whale ships lying in the harbour. Thehouses, with a few exceptions, are small adobes and frames, constructedwithout regard to architectural taste, convenience, or comfort. Veryfew of them have either chimneys or fire-places. The inhabitantscontrive to live the year round without fires, except for cooking. Theposition of San Francisco for commerce is, without doubt, superior toany other port on the Pacific coast of North America. The countrycontiguous and contributory to it cannot be surpassed in fertility, healthfulness of climate, and beauty of scenery. It is capable ofproducing whatever is necessary to the sustenance of man, and many ofthe luxuries of tropical climates, not taking into the account themineral wealth of the surrounding hills and mountains, which there isreason to believe is very great. This place is, doubtless, destined tobecome one of the largest and most opulent commercial cities in theworld, and under American authority it will rise with astonishingrapidity. The principal merchants now established here are Messrs. Leidesdorff, Grimes and Davis, and Frank Ward, a young gentlemanrecently from New York. These houses carry on an extensive andprofitable commerce with the interior, the Sandwich Islands, Oregon, and the southern coast of the Pacific. The produce of Oregon forexportation is flour, lumber, salmon, and cheese; of the SandwichIslands, sugar, coffee, and preserved tropical fruits. 

California, until recently, has had no commerce, in the broadsignification of the term. A few commercial houses of Boston and NewYork have monopolized all the trade on this coast for a number ofyears. These houses have sent out ships freighted with cargoes of drygoods and a variety of _knick-knacks_ saleable in the country. Theships are fitted up for the retail sale of these articles, and tradefrom port to port, vending their wares on board to the rancheros atprices that would be astonishing at home. For instance, the price ofcommon brown cotton cloth is one dollar per yard, and other articles inthis and even greater proportion of advance upon home prices. Theyreceive in payment for their wares, hides and tallow. The price of adry hide is ordinarily one dollar and fifty cents. The price of tallowI do not know. When the ship has disposed of her cargo, she is loadedwith hides, and returns to Boston, where the hides bring about four orfive dollars, according to the fluctuations of the market. Immensefortunes have been made by this trade; and between the government ofMexico and the traders on the coast California has been literally_skinned_, annually, for the last thirty years. Of natural wealth thepopulation of California possess a superabundance, and are immenselyrich; still, such have been the extortionate prices that they have beencompelled to pay for their commonest artificial luxuries andwearing-apparel, that generally they are but indifferently providedwith the ordinary necessaries of civilized life. For a suit of clothes, which in New York or Boston would cost seventy-five dollars, theCalifornian has been compelled to pay five times that sum in hides atone dollar and fifty cents; so that a _caballero_, to clothe himselfgenteelly, has been obliged, as often as he renewed his dress, tosacrifice about two hundred of the cattle on his rancho. No people, whether males or females, are more fond of display; no people have paidmore dearly to gratify this vanity; and yet no civilized people I haveseen are so deficient in what they most covet. 

 [1] This was in September, 1846. In June, 1847, when I left San Francisco, on my return to the United States, the population had increased to about twelve hundred, and houses were rising in all directions. 

CHAPTER IV. 

 Climate of San Francisco Periodical winds Dine on board the Portsmouth A supper party on shore Arrival of Commodore Stockton at San Francisco Rumours of rebellion from the south Californian court Trial by jury Fandango Californian belles American pioneers of the Pacific Reception of Commodore Stockton Sitca Captain Fremont leaves San Francisco for the south Offer our services as volunteers. 

From the 21st of September to the 13th of October I remained at SanFrancisco. The weather during this period was uniformly clear. Theclimate of San Francisco is peculiar and local, from its position. During the summer and autumnal months, the wind on this coast blowsfrom the west and northwest, directly from the ocean. The mornings hereare usually calm and pleasantly warm. About twelve o'clock M. , the windblows strong from the ocean, through the entrance of the bay, renderingthe temperature cool enough for woollen clothing in midsummer. Aboutsunset the wind dies away, and the evenings and nights are comparativelycalm. In the winter months the wind blows in soft and gentle breezesfrom the south-east, and the temperature is agreeable, the thermometerrarely sinking below 50 deg. When the winds blow from the ocean, itnever rains; when they blow from the land, as they do during the winterand spring months, the weather is showery, and resembles that of themonth of May in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast. The coolnessof the climate and briskness of the air above described are confined toparticular positions on the coast, and the description in this respectis not applicable to the interior of the country, nor even to otherlocalities immediately on the coast. 

On the 21st, by invitation of Captain Montgomery, I dined on board ofthe sloop-of-war Portsmouth. The party, including myself, consisted ofColonel Russell, Mr. Jacob, Lieutenant Bartlett, and a son of CaptainM. There are few if any officers in our navy more highly anduniversally esteemed, for their moral qualities and professionalmerits, than Captain M. He is a sincere Christian, a brave officer, andan accomplished gentleman. Under the orders of Commodore Sloat, hefirst raised the American flag in San Francisco. We spent the afternoonmost agreeably, and the refined hospitality, courteous manners, andintelligent and interesting conversation of our host made us regret therapidly fleeting moments. The wines on the table were the produce ofthe vine of California, and, having attained age, were of an excellentquality in substance and flavour. 

I attended a supper-party given this evening by Mr. Frank Ward. Theparty was composed of citizens of the town, and officers of the navyand the merchant and whale ships in the harbour. In such a company aswas here assembled, it was very difficult for me to realize that I wasmany thousand miles from, home, in a strange and foreign country. Allthe faces about me were American, and there was nothing in scene orsentiment to remind the guests of their remoteness from their nativeshores. Indeed, it seems to be a settled opinion, that California ishenceforth to compose a part of the United States, and every Americanwho is now here considers himself as treading upon his own soil, asmuch as if he were in one of the old thirteen revolutionary states. Song, sentiment, story, and wit heightened the enjoyments of theexcellent entertainment of our host, and the jovial party did notseparate until a late hour of the night. The guests, as may besupposed, were composed chiefly of gentlemen who had, from theirpursuits, travelled over most of the world--had seen developments ofhuman character under every variety of circumstance, and observedsociety, civilized, barbarous, and savage, in all its phases. Theirconversation, therefore, when around the convivial board, possessed anunhackneyed freshness and raciness highly entertaining and instructive. 

On the 27th of September, the U. S. Frigate Congress, CaptainLivingston, bearing the broad pennant of Commodore Stockton, and theU. S. Frigate Savannah, Captain Mervine, anchored in the harbour, havingsailed from Monterey a day or two previously. The arrival of theselarge men-of-war produced an increase of the bustle in the small town. Blue coats and bright buttons (the naval uniform) became the prevailingcostume at the billiard-rooms and other public places, and the plaindress of a private citizen might be regarded as a badge of distinction. 

On the 1st of October a courier arrived from the south withintelligence that the Californians at Los Angeles had organized a forceand rebelled against the authority of the Americans--that they had alsocaptured an American merchant-vessel lying at San Pedro, the port ofthe city of Angels, about thirty miles distant, and robbed it of aquantity of merchandise and specie. Whether this latter report was orwas not true, I do not know--the former was correct. The frigateSavannah sailed for Los Angeles immediately. 

Among those American naval officers whose agreeable acquaintance I madeat San Francisco, was Mr. James F. Schenck, first-lieutenant of thefrigate Congress, brother of the distinguished member of congress fromOhio of that name, --a native of Dayton, Ohio, --a gentleman ofintelligence, keen wit, and a most accomplished officer. The officersof our navy are our representatives in foreign countries, and they aregenerally such representatives as their constituents have reason tofeel proud of. Their chivalry, patriotism, gentlemanlike deportment, and professional skill cannot be too much admired and applauded bytheir countrymen. I shall ever feel grateful to the naval officers ofthe Pacific squadron for their numerous civilities during my sojourn onthe Pacific coast. 

Among the novelties presented while at San Francisco was a trial byjury--the second tribunal of this kind which had been organized inCalifornia. The trial look place before Judge Bartlett, and thelitigants were two Mormons. Counsel was employed on both sides. Some ofthe forms of American judicial proceedings were observed, and many ofthe legal technicalities and nice flaws, so often urged in common-lawcourts, were here argued by the learned counsel of the parties, with avehemence of language and gesticulation with which I thought the legallearning and acumen displayed did not correspond. The proceedings werea mixture, made up of common law, equity, and a sprinkling of militarydespotism--which last ingredient the court was compelled to employ, when entangled in the intricate meshes woven by the counsel for thelitigants, in order to extricate itself. The jury, after the case wasreferred to them, were what is called "hung;" they could not agree, andthe matters in issue, therefore, remained exactly where they werebefore the proceedings were commenced. 

I attended one evening a _fandango_ given by Mr. Ridley, an Englishgentleman, whose wife is a Californian lady. Several of the senoras andsenoritas from the ranchos of the vicinity were present. TheCalifornian ladies dance with much ease and grace. The waltz appears tobe a favourite with them. Smoking is not prohibited in theseassemblies, nor is it confined to the gentlemen. The _cigarita_ isfreely used by the senoras and senoritas, and they puff it with muchgusto while threading the mazes of the cotillion or swinging in thewaltz. 

I had the pleasure of being introduced, at the residence of Mr. Leidesdorff, to two young ladies, sisters and belles in AltaCalifornia. They are members of an old and numerous family on theContra Costa. Their names are singular indeed, for, if I heard themcorrectly, one of them was called Donna Maria Jesus, and the otherDonna Maria Conception. They were interesting and graceful youngladies, with regular features, symmetrical figures, and their dark eyesflashed with all the intelligence and passion characteristic of Spanishwomen. 

Among the gentlemen with whom I met soon after my arrival at SanFrancisco, and whoso acquaintance I afterwards cultivated, were Mr. E. Grimes and Mr. N. Spear, both natives of Massachusetts, but residentsof this coast and of the Pacific Islands, for many years. They may becalled the patriarchs of American pioneers on the Pacific. Afterforming an acquaintance with Mr. G. , if any one were to say to me that

 "Old Grimes is dead, that good old man, "

I should not hesitate to contradict him with emphasis; for he is stillliving, and possesses all the charities and virtues which can adornhuman nature, with some of the eccentricities of his name-sake in thesong. By leading a life of peril and adventure on the Pacific Ocean forfifty years he has accumulated a large fortune, and is a man nowproverbial for his integrity, candour, and charities. Both of thesegentlemen have been largely engaged in the local commerce of thePacific. Mr. S. , some twenty-five or thirty years ago, colonized one ofthe Cannibal Islands, and remained upon it with the colony for nearlytwo years. The attempt to introduce agriculture into the island was afailure, and the enterprise was afterwards abandoned. 

On the evening of the third of October, it having been announced thatCommodore Stockton would land on the fifth, a public meeting of thecitizens was called by the alcalde, for the purpose of adoptingsuitable arrangements for his reception, in his civic capacity asgovernor. The meeting was convened in the _plaza_ (Portsmouth Square). Colonel Russell was appointed chairman, and on motion of E. Bryant acommittee was appointed to make all necessary and suitable arrangementsfor the reception of his excellency, Governor Stockton. The followingaccount of this pageant I extract from the "California" newspaper ofOctober 24th, 1846. 

"Agreeable to public notice, a large number of the citizens of SanFrancisco and vicinity assembled in Portsmouth Square for the purposeof meeting his excellency Robert F. Stockton, to welcome his arrival, and offer him the hospitalities of the city. At ten o'clock, aprocession was formed, led by the Chief Marshal of the day, supportedon either hand by two aids, followed by an excellent band of music--amilitary escort, under command of Captain J. Zeilen, U. S. M. C. --CaptainJohn B. Montgomery and suite--Magistracy of the District, and theOrator of the day--Foreign Consuls--Captain John Paty, Senior Captainof the Hawanian Navy--Lieutenant-Commanding Ruducoff, Russian Navy, andLieutenant-Commanding Bonnett, French Navy. The procession was closedby the Committee of Arrangements, captains of ships in port, and a longline of citizens. 

"General Mariano Guadaloupe Valléjo, with several others who had heldoffice under the late government, took their appropriate place in theline. 

"The procession moved in fine style down Portsmouth Street to thelanding, and formed a line in Water Street. The Governor-General landedfrom his barge, and was met on the wharf by Captain John B. Montgomery, U. S. N. , Judge W. A. Bartlett, and Marshal of the day (Frank Ward), whoconducted him to the front of the line, and presented him to theprocession, through the orator of the day, Colonel Russell, whoaddressed the commodore. "

When the governor and commander-in-chief had closed his reply, theprocession moved through the principal streets, and halted in front ofCaptain Leidesdorff's residence, where the governor and suite entered, and was presented to a number of ladies, who welcomed him to the shoresof California. After which a large portion of the processionaccompanied the governor, on horseback, to the mission of San FranciscoDolores, several miles in the country, and returned to an excellentcollation prepared by the committee of arrangements, at the house ofCaptain Leidesdorff. After the cloth was removed, the usual number ofregular toasts, prepared by the committee of arrangements, and numerousvolunteer sentiments by the members of the company, were drunk withmany demonstrations of enthusiasm, and several speeches were made. Inresponse to a complimentary toast, Commodore Stockton made an eloquentaddress of an hour's length. The toasts given in English weretranslated into Spanish, and those given in Spanish were translatedinto English. A ball in honour of the occasion was given by thecommittee of arrangements in the evening, which was attended by all theladies, native and foreign, in the town and vicinity, the navalofficers attached to the three ships of war, and the captains of themerchant vessels lying in the harbour. So seductive were thefestivities of the day and the pleasures of the dance, that they werenot closed until a late hour of the night, or rather until an earlyhour in the morning. 

Among the numerous vessels of many nations at anchor in the harbour isa Russian brig from Sitca, the central port of the Russian-American FurCompany, on the northwestern coast of this continent. She is commandedby Lieutenant Ruducoff of the Russian navy, and is here to be freightedwith wheat to supply that settlement with breadstuff. Sitca is situatedin a high northern latitude, and has a population of some four or fivethousand inhabitants. A large portion of these, I conjecture, arechristianized natives or Indians. Many of the crew of this vessel arethe aborigines of the country to which she belongs, and from which shelast sailed. I noticed, however, from an inscription, that the brig wasbuilt at Newburyport, Massachusetts, showing that the autocrat of allthe Russias is tributary, to some extent, to the free Yankees of NewEngland for his naval equipment. On the 11th of October, by invitationof Lieutenant Ruducoff, in company of Mr. Jacob and CaptainLeidesdorff, I dined on board this vessel. The Russian customs are insome respects peculiar. Soon after we reached the vessel and were showninto the cabin, a lunch was served up. This consisted of a variety ofdried and smoked fish, pickled fish-roe, and other hyperborean pickles, the nature of which, whether animal or vegetable, I could notdetermine. Various wines and liquors accompanied this lunch, thediscussion of which lasted until an Indian servant, a native of thenorth-pole, or thereabouts, announced dinner. We were then shown into ahandsomely furnished dining-cabin, where the table was spread. Thedinner consisted of several courses, some of which were peculiarlyRussian or Sitcan, and I regret that my culinary knowledge is not equalto the task of describing them, for the benefit of epicures of a moresouthern region than the place of their invention. They were certainlyvery delightful to the palate. The afternoon glided away mostagreeably. 

On the 12th of October, Captain Fremont, with a number of volunteersdestined for the south, to co-operate with Commodore Stockton in thesuppression of the reported rebellion at Los Angeles, arrived at SanFrancisco from the Sacramento. I had previously offered my services, and Mr. Jacob had done the same, to Commodore Stockton, as volunteersin this expedition, if they were necessary or desirable. They were nowrepeated. Although travellers in the country, we were Americancitizens, and we felt under obligation to assist in defending the flagof our country wherever it had been planted by proper authority. Atthis time we were given to understand that a larger force than wasalready organised was not considered necessary for the expedition. 

CHAPTER V. 

 Leave San Francisco for Sonoma Sonoma creek "Bear men. " Islands in the bay Liberality of "Uncle Sam" to sailors Sonoma Beautiful country General Valléjo Senora Valléjo Thomas O. Larkin, U. S. Consul Signs of rain The seasons in California More warlike rumours from the south Mission of San Rafael An Irish ranchero Sausolito Return to San Francisco Meet Lippincott Discomfort of Californian houses. 

_October 13_. --This morning the United States frigate Congress, Commodore Stockton, and the merchant-ship Sterling, employed totransport the volunteers under the command of Captain Fremont (onehundred and eighty in number), sailed for the south. The destination ofthese vessels was understood to be San Pedro or San Diego. While thosevessels were leaving the harbour, accompanied by Mr. Jacob, I tookpassage for Sonoma in a cutter belonging to the sloop-of-warPortsmouth. Sonoma is situated on the northern side of the Bay of SanFrancisco, about 15 miles from the shore, and about 45 miles from thetown of San Francisco. Sonoma creek is navigable for vessels ofconsiderable burden to within four miles of the town. 

Among the passengers in the boat were Mr. Ide, who acted so conspicuousa part in what is called the "Bear Revolution, " and Messrs. Nash andGrigsby, who were likewise prominent in this movement. The boat wasmanned by six sailors and a cockswain. We passed Yerba Buena, Bird, andseveral other small islands in the bay. Some of these are white, as ifcovered with snow, from the deposit upon them of bird-manure. Tens ofthousands of wild geese, ducks, gulls, and other water-fowls, wereperched upon them, or sporting in the waters of the bay, making aprodigious cackling and clatter with their voices and wings. By the aidof oars and sails we reached the mouth of Sonoma creek about 9 o'clockat night, where we landed and encamped on the low marsh which bordersthe bay on this side. The marshes contiguous to the Bay of SanFrancisco are extensive, and with little trouble I believe they couldbe reclaimed and transformed into valuable and productive riceplantations. Having made our supper on raw salt pork and breadgenerously furnished by the sailors, as soon as we landed, we spreadour blankets on the damp and rank vegetation and slept soundly untilmorning. 

_October 14_. --Wind and tide being favourable, at daylight we proceededup the serpentine creek, which winds through a flat and fertile plain, sometimes marshy, at others more elevated and dry, to the_embarcadero_, ten or twelve miles from the bay. We landed here betweennine and ten o'clock, A. M. All the passengers, except ourselves, proceeded immediately to the town. By them we sent for a cart totransport our saddles, bridles, blankets, and other baggage, which wehad brought with us. While some of the sailors were preparingbreakfast, others, with their muskets, shot wild geese, with which theplain was covered. An excellent breakfast was prepared in a short timeby our sailor companions, of which we partook with them. No benevolentold gentleman provides more bountifully for his servants than "UncleSam. " These sailors, from the regular rations served out to them fromtheir ship, gave an excellent breakfast, of bread, butter, coffee, tea, fresh beefsteaks, fried salt pork, cheese, pickles, and a variety ofother delicacies, to which we had been unaccustomed for several months, and which cannot be obtained at present in this country. They all saidthat their rations were more than ample in quantity, and excellent inquality, and that no government was so generous in supplying itssailors as the government of the United States. They appeared to behappy, and contented with their condition and service, and animatedwith a patriotic pride for the honour of their country, and the flagunder which they sailed. The open frankness and honest patriotism ofthese single-hearted and weather-beaten tars gave a spice and flavourto our entertainment which I shall not soon forget. 

From the _embarcadero_ we walked, under the influence of the rays of analmost broiling sun, four miles to the town of Sonoma. The plain, whichlies between the landing and Sonoma, is timbered sparsely withevergreen oaks. The luxuriant grass is now brown and crisp. The hillssurrounding this beautiful valley or plain are gentle, sloping, highlypicturesque, and covered to their tops with wild oats. Reaching Sonoma, we procured lodgings in a large and half-finished adobe house, erectedby Don Salvador Valléjo, but now occupied by Mr. Griffith, an Americanemigrant, originally from North Carolina. Sonoma is one of the oldmission establishments of California; but there is now scarcely amission building standing, most of them having fallen into shapelessmasses of mud; and a few years will prostrate the roofless walls whichare now standing. The principal houses in the place are the residencesof Gen. Don Mariano Guadaloupe Valléjo; his brother-in-law, Mr. J. P. Leese, an American; and his brother, Don Salvador Valléjo. The quartel, a barn-like adobe house, faces the public square. The town presents amost dull and ruinous appearance; but the country surrounding it isexuberantly fertile, and romantically picturesque, and Sonoma, underAmerican authority, and with an American population, will very soonbecome a secondary commercial point, and a delightful residence. Mostof the buildings are erected around a _plaza_, about two hundred yardssquare. The only ornaments in this square are numerous skulls anddislocated skeletons of slaughtered beeves, with which hideous remainsthe ground is strewn. Cold and warm springs gush from the hills nearthe town, and supply, at all seasons, a sufficiency of water toirrigate any required extent of ground on the plain below. I noticedoutside of the square several groves of peach and other fruit trees, and vineyards, which were planted here by the _padres_; but the wallsand fences that once surrounded them are now fallen, or have beenconsumed for fuel; and they are exposed to the _mercies_ of the immenseherds of cattle which roam over and graze upon the plain. 

_October 15_. --I do not like to trouble the reader with a frequentreference to the myriads of fleas and other vermin which infest therancherias and old mission establishments in California; but, if anysinning soul ever suffered the punishments of purgatory before leavingits tenement of clay, those torments were endured by myself last night. When I rose from my blankets this morning, after a sleepless night, Ido not think there was an inch square of my body that did not exhibitthe inflammation consequent upon a puncture by a flea, or some otherequally rabid and poisonous insect. Small-pox, erysipelas, measles, andscarlet-fever combined, could not have imparted to my skin a moreinflamed and sanguineous appearance. The multitudes of these insects, however, have been generated by Indian filthiness. They do not disturbthe inmates of those _casas_ where cleanliness prevails. 

Having letters of introduction to General Valléjo and Mr. Leese, Idelivered them this morning. General Valléjo is a native Californian, and a gentleman of intelligence and taste far superior to most of hiscountrymen. The interior of his house presented a different appearancefrom any house occupied by native Californians which I have enteredsince I have been in the country. Every apartment, even the mainentrance-hall and corridors, were scrupulously clean, and presented anair of comfort which I have not elsewhere seen in California. Theparlour was furnished with handsome chairs, sofas, mirrors, and tables, of mahogany framework, and a fine piano, the first I have seen in thecountry. Several paintings and some superior engravings ornamented thewalls. Senora Valléjo is a lady of charming personal appearance, andpossesses in the highest degree that natural grace, ease, and warmth ofmanner which render Spanish ladies so attractive and fascinating to thestranger. The children, some five or six in number, were all beautifuland interesting. General V. Is, I believe, strongly desirous that theUnited States shall retain and annex California. He is thoroughlydisgusted with Mexican sway, which is fast sending his countrybackwards, instead of forwards, in the scale of civilization, and foryears he has been desirous of the change which has now taken place. 

In the afternoon we visited the house of Mr. Leese, which is alsofurnished in American style. Mr. L. Is the proprietor of a vineyard inthe vicinity of the town, and we were regaled upon grapes as luscious, I dare say, as the forbidden fruit that provoked the firsttransgression. Nothing of the fruit kind can exceed the deliciousrichness and flavour, of the California grape. 

This evening Thomas O. Larkin, Esq. , late United States Consul forCalifornia, arrived here, having left San Francisco on the same morningthat we did, travelling by land. Mr. L. Resides in Monterey, but I hadthe pleasure of an introduction to him at San Francisco several dayspreviously to my leaving that place. Mr. L. Is a native of Boston, andhas been a resident in California for about fifteen years, during whichtime he has amassed a large fortune, and from the changes now takingplace he is rapidly increasing it. He will probably be the firstAmerican millionnaire of California. 

_October 17_. --The last two mornings have been cloudy and cool. Therainy season, it is thought by the weather-wise in this climate, willset in earlier this year than usual. The periodical rains ordinarilycommence about the middle of November. It is now a month earlier, andthe meteorological phenomena portend "falling weather. " The rainsduring the winter, in California, are not continuous, as is generallysupposed. It sometimes rains during an entire day, without cessation, but most generally the weather is showery, with intervals of brightsunshine and a delightful temperature. The first rains of the year fallusually in November, and the last about the middle of May. As soon asthe ground becomes moistened, the grass, and other hardy vegetation, springs up, and by the middle of December the landscape is arrayed in arobe of fresh verdure. The grasses grow through the entire winter, andmost of them mature by the first of May. The season for sowing wheatcommences as soon as the ground is sufficiently softened by moisture toadmit of ploughing, and continues until March or April. 

We had made preparations this morning to visit a rancho, belonging toGeneral Valléjo, in company with the general and Mr. Larkin. Thisrancho contains about eleven leagues of land, bordering upon a portionof the Bay of San Francisco, twenty-five or thirty miles distant fromSonoma. Just as we were about mounting our horses, however, a courierarrived from San Francisco with despatches from Captain Montgomery, addressed to Lieutenant Revere, the military commandant at this post, giving such intelligence in regard to the insurrection at the south, that we determined to return to San Francisco forthwith. Procuringhorses, and accompanied by Mr. Larkin, we left Sonoma about two o'clockin the afternoon, riding at the usual California speed. After leavingSonoma plain we crossed a ridge of hills, and entered the fertile andpicturesque valley of Petaluma creek, which empties into the bay. General Valléjo has an extensive rancho in this valley, upon which hehas recently erected, at great expense, a very large house. Architecture, however, in this country is in its infancy. The moneyexpended in erecting this house, which presents to the eye no tastefularchitectural attractions, would, in the United States, have raised apalace of symmetrical proportions, and adorned it with every requisiteornament. Large herds of cattle were grazing in this valley. 

From Petaluma valley we crossed a high rolling country, and reached themission of San Rafael (forty-five miles) between seven and eighto'clock in the evening. San Rafael is situated two or three miles fromthe shore of the bay, and commands an extensive view of the bay and itsislands. The mission buildings are generally in the same ruinouscondition I have before described. We put up at the house of a Mr. Murphy, a scholastic Irish bachelor, who has been a resident ofCalifornia for a number of years. His _casa_, when we arrived, wasclosed, and it was with some difficulty that we could gain admission. When, however, the occupant of the house had ascertained, from one ofthe loopholes of the building, who we were, the doors were soonunbarred and we were admitted, but not without many sallies of Irishwit, sometimes good-natured, and sometimes keenly caustic and ironical. We found a table spread with cold mutton and cold beef upon it. A cupof coffee was soon prepared by the Indian muchachos and muchachas, andour host brought out some scheidam and _aguardiénte_. A draught or twoof these liquids seemed to correct the acidity of his humour, and heentertained us with his jokes and conversation several hours. 

_October 18_. --From San Rafael to Sausolito, opposite San Francisco onthe north side of the entrance to the bay, it is five leagues (fifteenmiles), generally over elevated hills and through deep hollows, theascents and descents being frequently steep and laborious to ouranimals. Starting at half-past seven o'clock, we reached the residenceof Captain Richardson, the proprietor of Sausolito, about nine o'clockin the morning. In travelling this distance we passed some temporaryhouses, erected by American emigrants on the mission lands, and therancho of Mrs. Reed, a widow. We immediately hired a whale-boat fromone of the ships, lying here, at two dollars for each passenger, andbetween ten and eleven o'clock we landed in San Francisco. 

I met, soon after my arrival, Mr. Lippincott, heretofore mentioned, whoaccompanied us a portion of the distance over the mountains; and Mr. Hastings, who, with Mr. Hudspeth, conducted a party of the emigrantsfrom fort Bridger by the new route, _via_ the south end of the SaltLake, to Mary's River. From Mr. Lippincott I learned the particulars ofan engagement between a party of the emigrants (Captain West's company)and the Indians on Mary's River, which resulted, as has before beenstated, in the death of Mr. Sallee and a dangerous arrow wound to Mr. L. He had now, however, recovered from the effects of the wound. Theemigrants, who accompanied Messrs. Hastings and Hudspeth, or followedtheir trail, had all reached the valley of the Sacramento without anymaterial loss or disaster. 

I remained at San Francisco from the 18th to the 22d of October. Theweather during this time was sufficiently cool to render firesnecessary to comfort in the houses; but fireplaces or stoves areluxuries which but few of the San Franciscans have any knowledge of, except in their kitchens. This deficiency, however, will soon beremedied. American settlers here will not build houses withoutchimneys. They would as soon plan a house without a door, or with theentrance upon its roof, in imitation of the architecture of the PuebloIndians of New Mexico. 

CHAPTER VI. 

 Boat trip up the bay and the Sacramento to New Helvetia An appeal to the alcalde Kanackas Straits of San Pueblo and Pedro Straits of Carquinez Town of Francisca Feather-beds furnished by nature Mouth of the Sacramento Islands Delaware Tom A man who has forgotten his mother tongue Salmon of the Sacramento Indian fishermen Arrive at New Helvetia. 

_October 22_. --Having determined to make a trip to Nueva Helvetia bywater, for the purpose of examining more particularly the upper portionof the bay and the Sacramento river, in conjunction with Mr. Larkin, wechartered a small open sail-boat for the excursion. The charter, toavoid disputes, was regularly drawn and signed, with all conditionsspecified. The price to be paid for a certain number of passengers wasthirty-two dollars, and demurrage at the rate of twenty-five cents perhour for all delays ordered by the charter-party, on the trip upwardsto Nueva Helvetia. The boat was to be ready at the most convenientlanding at seven o'clock this morning, but when I called at the placeappointed, with our baggage, the boat was not there. In an hour or twothe skipper was found, but refused to comply with his contract. Weimmediately laid our grievance before the alcalde, who, after readingthe papers and hearing the statements on both sides, ordered theskipper to perform what he had agreed to perform, to which decision hereluctantly assented. In order to facilitate matters, I paid the costsof the action myself, although the successful litigant in the suit. 

We left San Francisco about two o'clock P. M. , and, crossing the mouthof the bay, boarded a Mexican schooner, a prize captured by the U. S. Sloop-of-war Cyane, Captain Dupont, which had entered the bay thismorning and anchored in front of Sausolito. The prize is commanded byLieutenant Renshaw, a gallant officer of our navy. Our object inboarding the schooner was to learn the latest news, but she did notbring much. We met on board the schooner Lieutenant Hunter of thePortsmouth, a chivalrous officer, and Lieutenant Ruducoff, commandingthe Russian brig previously mentioned, whose vessel, preparatory tosailing, was taking in water at Sausolito. Accepting of his pressinginvitation, we visited the brig, and took a parting glass of wine withher gallant and gentlemanly commander. 

About five o'clock P. M. , we proceeded on our voyage. At eight o'clock adense fog hung over the bay, and, the ebb-tide being adverse to ourprogress, we were compelled to find a landing for our small and frailcraft. This was not an easy matter, in the almost impenetrabledarkness. As good-luck would have it, however, after we had gropedabout for some time, a light was discovered by our skipper. He rowedthe boat towards it, but grounded. Hauling off, he made another attemptwith better success, reaching within hailing distance of the shore. Thelight proceeded from a camp-fire of three Kanacka (Sandwich island)runaway sailors. As soon as they ascertained who we were and what wewanted, they stripped themselves naked, and, wading through the mud andwater to the boat, took us on their shoulders, and carried us high anddry to the land. The boat, being thus lightened of her burden, wasrowed farther up, and landed. 

The natives of the Sandwich islands (Kanackas, as they are called) are, without doubt, the most expert watermen in the world. Theirperformances in swimming and diving are so extraordinary, that they mayalmost be considered amphibious in their natures and instincts. Waterappears to be as much their natural element as the land. They havestraight black hair, good features, and an amiable and intelligentexpression of countenance. Their complexion resembles that of a brightmulatto; and, in symmetrical proportions and muscular developments, they will advantageously compare with any race of men I have seen. Thecrews of many of the whale and merchant ships on this coast are partlycomposed of Kanackas, and they are justly esteemed as most valuablesailors. 

_October 23_. --The damp raw weather, auguring the near approach of theautumnal rains, continues. A drizzling mist fell on us during thenight, and the clouds were not dissipated when we resumed our voyagethis morning. Passing through the straits of San Pablo and San Pedro, we entered a division of the bay called the bay of San Pablo. Wind andtide being in our favour, we crossed this sheet of water, andafterwards entered and passed through the Straits of _Carquinez_. Atthese straits the waters of the bay are compressed within the breadthof a mile, for the distance of about two leagues. On the southern sidethe shore is hilly, and _canoned_ in some places. The northern shore isgentle, the hills and table-land sloping gradually down to the water. We landed at the bend of the Straits of _Carquinez_, and spent severalhours in examining the country and soundings on the northern side. There is no timber here. The soil is covered with a growth of grass andwhite oats. The bend of the Straits of Carquinez, on the northern side, has been thought to be a favourable position for a commercial town. Ithas some advantages and some disadvantages, which it would be tediousfor me now to detail. 

[Subsequently to this my first visit here, a town of extensivedimensions has been laid off by Gen. Valléjo and Mr. Semple, theproprietors, under the name of "Francisca. " It fronts for two or threemiles on the "_Soeson_, " the upper division of the Bay of SanFrancisco, and the Straits of Carquinez. A ferry has also beenestablished, which crosses regularly from shore to shore, conveyingtravellers over the bay. I crossed, myself and horses, here in June, 1847, when on my return to the United States. Lots had then beenoffered to settlers on favourable conditions, and preparations, Iunderstand, were making for the erection of a number of houses. ]

About sunset we resumed our voyage. The Wind having lulled, weattempted to stem the adverse tide by the use of oars, but the ebb ofthe tide was stronger than the propelling force of our oars. Soon, inspite of all our exertions, we found ourselves drifting rapidlybackwards, and, after two or three hours of hard labour in the dark, wewere at last so fortunate as to effect a landing in a cove on thesouthern side of the straits, having retrograded several miles. In thecove there is a small sandy beach, upon which the waves have drifted, and deposited a large quantity of oat-straw, and feathers shed by themillions of water-fowls which sport upon the bay. On this downy depositfurnished by nature we spread our blankets, and slept soundly. 

_October 24_. --We proceeded on our voyage at daylight, coasting alongthe southern shore of the _Soeson_. About nine o'clock we landed on amarshy plain, and cooked breakfast. A range of mountains bounds thisplain, the base of which is several miles from the shore of the bay. These mountains, although of considerable elevation, exhibit signs offertility to their summits. On the plain, numerous herds of wild cattlewere grazing. About two o'clock, P. M. , we entered the mouth of theSacramento. The Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers empty into the Bay ofSan Francisco at the same point, about sixty miles from the Pacific, and by numerous mouths or _sloughs_ as they are here called. Thesesloughs wind through an immense timbered swamp, and constitute aterraqueous labyrinth of such intricacy, that unskilful andinexperienced navigators have been lost for many days in it, and some, I have been told, have perished, never finding their way out. A rangeof low sloping hills approach the Sacramento a short distance above itsmouth, on the left-hand side as you ascend, and run parallel with thestream several miles. The banks of the river, and several large islandswhich we passed during the day, are timbered with sycamore, oak, and avariety of smaller trees and shrubbery. Numerous grape-vines, climbingover the trees, and loaded down with a small and very acid fruit, giveto the forest a tangled appearance. The islands of the Sacramento areall low, and subject to overflow in the spring of the year. The soil ofthe river bottom, including the islands, is covered with rankvegetation, a certain evidence of its fertility. The water, at thisseason, is perfectly limpid, and, although the tide ebbs and flows morethan a hundred miles above the mouth of the river, it is fresh andsweet. The channel of the Sacramento is remarkably free from snags andother obstructions to navigation. A more beautiful and placid stream ofwater I never saw. 

At twelve o'clock at night, the ebb-tide being so strong that we foundourselves drifting backwards, with some difficulty we effected alanding on one of the islands, clearing a way through the tangled brushand vines with our hatchets and knives. Lighting a fire, we bivouackeduntil daylight. 

_October 25_. --Continuing our voyage, we landed, about nine o'clock, A. M. , at an Indian _rancheria_, situated on the bank of the river. Anold Indian, his wife, and two or three children, were all the presentoccupants of this _rancheria_. The woman was the most miserable andemaciated object I ever beheld. She was probably a victim of the"sweat-house. " Surrounding the _rancheria_ were two or three acres ofground, planted with maize, beans, and melons. Purchasing a quantity ofwater and musk-melons, we re-embarked and pursued our voyage. As weascended the stream, the banks became more elevated, the country onboth sides opening into vast savannas, dotted occasionally with parksof evergreen oak. 

The tide turning against us again about eleven or twelve o'clock, welanded at an encampment of Walla-Walla Indians, a portion of the partypreviously referred to, and reported to have visited California forhostile purposes. Among them was a Delaware Indian, known as "DelawareTom, " who speaks English as fluently as any Anglo-Saxon, and is a mostgallant and honourable Indian. Several of the party, a majority of whomwere women and children, were sick with chills and fever. The men wereengaged in hunting and jerking deer and elk meat. Throwing our hooks, baited with fresh meat, into the river, we soon drew out small fishenough for dinner. 

The specimens of Walla-Wallas at this encampment are far superior tothe Indians of California in features, figure, and intelligence. Theircomplexion is much lighter, and their features more regular, expressive, and pleasing. Men and women were clothed in dressed skins. The men were armed with rifles. 

At sunset we put our little craft in motion again, and at one o'clockat night landed near the cabin of a German emigrant named Schwartz, sixmiles below the _embarcadero_ of New Helvetia. The cabin is abouttwenty feet in length by twelve in breadth, constructed of a light rudeframe, shingled with _tule_. After gaining admission, we found a fireblazing in the centre of the dwelling on the earth-floor, and suspendedover us were as many salmon, taken from the Sacramento, as could beplaced in position to imbibe the preservative qualities of the smoke. 

Our host, Mr. Schwartz, is one of those eccentric human phenomenararely met with, who, wandering from their own nation into foreigncountries, forget their own language without acquiring any other. Hespeaks a tongue (language it cannot be called) peculiar to himself, andscarcely intelligible. It is a mixture, in about equal parts, ofGerman, English, French, Spanish, and _rancheria_ Indian, a compoundedpolyglot or lingual _pi_--each syllable of a word sometimes beingderived from a different language. Stretching ourselves on the benchessurrounding the fire, so as to avoid the drippings from the pendentsalmon, we slept until morning. 

_October 26_. --Mr. Schwartz provided us with a breakfast of friedsalmon and some fresh milk. Coffee, sugar, and bread we brought withus, so that we enjoyed a luxurious repast. 

Near the house was a shed containing some forty or fifty barrels ofpickled salmon, but the fish, from their having been badly put up, werespoiled. Mr. Schwartz attempted to explain the particular causes ofthis, but I could not understand him. The salmon are taken with seinesdragged across the channel of the river by Indians in canoes. On thebank of the river the Indians were eating their breakfast, whichconsisted of a large fresh salmon, roasted in the ashes or embers, anda kettle of _atole_, made of acorn-meal. The salmon was four or fivefeet in length, and, when taken out of the fire and cut open, presenteda most tempting appearance. The Indians were all nearly naked, and mostof them, having been wading in the water at daylight to set theirseines, were shivering with the cold whilst greedily devouring theirmorning meal. 

We reached the _embarcadero_ of New Helvetia about eleven o'clock, A. M. , and, finding there a wagon, we placed our baggage in it, andwalked to the fort, about two and a half miles. 

CHAPTER VII. 

 Disastrous news from the south Return of Colonel Fremont to Monterey Call for volunteers Volunteer our services Leave New Helvetia Swimming the Sacramento First fall of rain Beautiful and romantic valley Precipitous mountains Deserted house Arable land of California Fattening qualities of the acorn Lost in the Coast Mountains Strange Indians Indian women gathering grass-seed for bread Indian guide Laguna Rough dialogue Hunters' camp "Old Greenwood" Grisly bear meat Greenwood's account of himself His opinion of the Indians and Spaniards Retrace our steps Severe storm Nappa valley Arrive at Sonoma More rain Arrive at San Francisco Return to New Helvetia. 

I remained at the fort from the 27th to the 30th of October. On the28th, Mr. Reed, whom I have before mentioned as belonging to the rearemigrating party, arrived here. He left his party on Mary's River, andin company with one man crossed the desert and the mountains. He wasseveral days without provisions, and, when he arrived at Johnson's, wasso much emaciated and exhausted by fatigue and famine, that he couldscarcely walk. His object was to procure provisions immediately, and totransport them with pack-mules over the mountains for the relief of thesuffering emigrants behind. He had lost all of his cattle, and had beencompelled to _cache_ two of his wagons and most of his property. Captain Sutter generously furnished the requisite quantity of mules andhorses, with Indian vaqueros, and jerked meat and flour. This is thesecond expedition for the relief of the emigrants he has fitted outsince our arrival in the country. Ex-governor Boggs and family reachedSutter's Fort to-day. 

On the evening of the 28th, a courier arrived with letters from ColonelFremont, now at Monterey. The substance of the intelligence received bythe courier was, that a large force of Californians (varying, accordingto different reports, from five to fifteen hundred strong) had met themarines and sailors, four hundred strong, under the command of CaptainMervine, of the U. S. Frigate Savannah, who had landed at San Pedro forthe purpose of marching to Los Angeles, and had driven Captain Mervineand his force back to the ship, with the loss, in killed, of six men. That the towns of Angeles and Santa Barbara had been taken by theinsurgents, and the American garrisons there had either been capturedor had made their escape by retreating. What had become of them wasunknown. [2] Colonel Fremont, who I before mentioned had sailed with aparty of one hundred and eighty volunteers from San Francisco to SanPedro, or San Diego, for the purpose of co-operating with CommodoreStockton, after having been some time at sea, had put into Monterey andlanded his men, and his purpose now was to increase his force and mountthem, and to proceed by land for Los Angeles. 

 [2] The garrison under Captain Gillespie, at Los Angeles, capitulated. The garrison at Santa Barbara, under Lieutenant Talbot, marched out in defiance of the enemy, and after suffering many hardships arrived in safety at Monterey. 

On the receipt of this intelligence, I immediately drew up a paper, which was signed by myself, Messrs Reed, Jacob, Lippincott, andGrayson, offering our services as volunteers, and our exertions toraise a force of emigrants and Indians which would be a sufficientreinforcement to Colonel Fremont. This paper was addressed to Mr. Kern, the commandant of Fort Sacramento, and required his sanction. The nextmorning (29th) he accepted of our proposal, and the labour of raisingthe volunteers and of procuring the necessary clothing and supplies forthem and the Indians was apportioned. 

It commenced raining on the night of the twenty-eighth, and the rainfell heavily and steadily until twelve o'clock, P. M. , on thetwenty-ninth. This is the first fall of rain since March last. Aboutone o'clock, P. M. , the clouds cleared away and the weather andtemperature were delightful. 

About twelve o'clock, on the 30th, accompanied by Mr. Grayson, I leftNew Helvetia. We crossed the Sacramento at the _embarcadero_, swimmingour horses, and passing ourselves over in a small canoe. The method ofswimming horses over so broad a stream as the Sacramento is as follows. A light canoe or "dug-out" is manned by three persons, one at the bowone at the stern and one in the centre; those at the bow and stern havepaddles, and propel and steer the craft. The man in the centre holdsthe horses one on each side, keeping their heads out of water. When thehorses are first forced into the deep water, they struggleprodigiously, and sometimes upset the canoe; but, when the canoe getsfairly under way, they cease their resistance, but snort loudly atevery breath to clear their mouths and nostrils of the water. 

Proceeding ten miles over a level plain, we overtook a company ofemigrants bound for Nappa valley, and encamped with them for the nighton Puta creek, a tributary of the Sacramento. Five of the seven oreight men belonging to the company enrolled their names as volunteers. The grass on the western side of the Sacramento is very rank and of anexcellent quality. 

It commenced raining about two o'clock on the morning of the 31st, andcontinued to rain and mist all day. We crossed from Puta to Cachecreek, reaching the residence of Mr. Gordon (25 miles) about threeo'clock P. M. Here we enrolled several additional emigrants in our listof volunteers, and then travelled fifteen miles up the creek to a smalllog-house, occupied temporarily by some of the younger members of thefamily of Mr. Gordon, who emigrated from Jackson county, Mo. , thisyear, and by Mrs. Grayson. Here we remained during the night, glad tofind a shelter and a fire, for we were drenched to our skins. 

On the morning of the 1st of November the sun shone out warm andpleasant. The birds were singing, chattering, and flitting from tree totree, through the romantic and picturesque valley where we had sleptduring the night. The scenery and its adjuncts were so charming andenticing that I recommenced my travels with reluctance. No scenery canbe more beautiful than that of the small valleys of California. Ascending the range of elevated mountains which border the Cache creek, we had a most extensive view of the broad plain of the Sacramento, stretching with islands and bells of limber far away to the south asthe eye could penetrate. The gorges and summits of these mountains aretimbered with largo pines, firs, and cedars, with a smaller growth ofmagnolias, manzanitas, hawthorns, etc. , etc. Travelling several milesover a level plateau, we descended into a beautiful valley, richlycarpeted with grass and timbered with evergreen oak. Proceeding acrossthis three or four miles, we rose another range of mountains, and, travelling a league along the summit ridge, we descended through acrevice in a sleep rocky precipice, just sufficient in breadth to admitthe passage of our animals. Our horses were frequently compelled toslide or leap down nearly perpendicular rocks or stairs, until wefinally, just after sunset, reached the bottom of the mountain, andfound ourselves in another level and most fertile and picturesquevalley. 

We knew that in this valley, of considerable extent, there was a houseknown as "Barnett's, " where we expected to find quarters for the night. There were numerous trails of cattle, horses, deer, and other wildanimals, crossing each other in every direction through the liveoak-timber. We followed on the largest of the cattle trails until itbecame so blind that we could not see it. Taking another, we did thesame, and the result was the same; another and another with no bettersuccess. We then shouted so loud that our voices were echoed andre-echoed by the surrounding mountains, hoping, if there were anyinhabitants in the valley, that they would respond to us. There was noresponse--all was silent when the sound of our voices died away in thegorges and ravines; and at ten o'clock at night we encamped under thewide-spreading branches of an oak, having travelled about 40 miles. Striking a fire and heaping upon it a large quantity of wood, whichblazed brightly, displaying the Gothic shapes of the surrounding oaks, we picketed our animals, spread our blankets, and slept soundly. 

It rained several hours during the night, and in the morning a densefog filled the valley. Saddling our animals, we searched along the footof the next range of mountains for a trail, but could find none. Returning to our camp, we proceeded up the valley, and struck a trail, by following which two miles, we came to the house (Barnett's). Thedoor was ajar, and entering the dwelling we found it tenantless. Thehearth was cold, and the ashes in the jambs of the large fire-placewere baked. In the corners of the building there were some frames, uponwhich beds had been once spread. The house evidently had been abandonedby its former occupants for some time. The prolific mothers of severalfamilies of the swinish species, with their squealing progenies, gathered around us, in full expectation, doubtless, of the dispensationof an extra ration, which we had not to give. Having eaten nothing buta crust of bread for 24 hours, the inclination of our appetites wasstrong to draw upon them for a ration; but for old acquaintance' sake, and because they were the foreshadowing of the "manifest destiny, " theywere permitted to pass without molestation. There were two or threesmall inclosures near the house, where corn and wheat had been plantedand harvested this year; but none of the product of the harvest couldbe found in the empty house, or on the place. Dismounting from ourhorses at a limpid spring-branch near the house, we slaked our thirst, and made our hydropathical breakfast from its cool and delicious water. 

Although the trail of the valley did not run in our course, still, under the expectation that it would soon take another direction, wefollowed it, passing over a fertile soil, sufficiently timbered andwatered by several small streams. The quantity of arable land inCalifornia, I believe, is much greater than has generally been supposedfrom the accounts of the country given by travellers who have visitedonly the parts on the Pacific, and some few of the missions. Most ofthe mountain valleys between the Sierra Nevada and the coast areexuberantly fertile, and finely watered, and will produce crops of allkinds, while the hills are covered with oats and grass of the mostnutritious qualities, for the sustenance of cattle, horses, and hogs. The acorns which fall from the oaks are, of themselves, a rich annualproduct for the fattening of hogs; and during the period of transition(four or five weeks after the rains commence falling) from the drygrass to the fresh growth, horses, mules, and even horned cattle mostlysubsist and fatten upon these large and oleaginous nuts. 

We left the valley in a warm and genial sunshine, about 11 o'clock, andcommenced ascending another high mountain, timbered as those I havepreviously described. When we reached the summit, we were enveloped inclouds, and the rain was falling copiously, and a wintry blast drovethe cold element to our skins. Crossing this mountain three or fourmiles, we descended its sleep sides, and entered another beautiful andromantic hollow, divided as it were into various apartments by shortranges of low conical hills, covered to their summits with grass andwild oats. The grass and other vegetation on the level bottom are veryrank, indicating a soil of the most prolific qualities. In windingthrough this valley, we met four Indians on foot, armed with long bows, and arrows of corresponding weight and length, weapons that I have notpreviously seen among the Indians. Their complexions were lighter thanthose of the _rancheria_ Indians of California. They evidently belongedto some more northern tribe. We stopped them to make inquiries, butthey seemed to know nothing of the country, nor could we learn fromthem from whence they came or where they were going. They were clothedin dressed skins, and two of them were highly rouged. 

Ascending and descending gradually over some low hills, we enteredanother circular valley, through which flows a stream, the waters ofwhich, judging from its channel, at certain seasons are broad and deep. The ground, from the rains that have recently fallen and are nowfalling, is very soft, and we had difficulty in urging our tiredanimals across this valley. We soon discovered fresh cattle signs, andafterwards a large herd grazing near the stream. Farther on, we sawfive old and miserably emaciated Indian women, gathering grass-seed forbread. This process is performed with two baskets, one shaped like around shield, and the other having a basin and handle. With the shieldthe lop of the grass is brushed, and the seed by the motion is throwninto the deep basket held in the other hand. The five women appeared ata distance like so many mowers cutting down the grass of a meadow. These women could give us no satisfaction in response to inquiries, butpointed over the river indicating that we should there find the _casa_and _rancheria_. They then continued their work with as much zeal andindustry as if their lives were dependent upon the proceeds of theirlabour, and I suppose they were. 

Crossing the river, we struck a trail which led us to the _casa_ and_rancheria_, about two miles distant. The _casa_ was a small adobebuilding, about twelve feet square, and was locked up. Finding thatadmission was not to be gained here, we hailed at the _rancheria_, andpresently some dozen squalid and naked men, women, and children, madetheir appearance. We inquired for the _mayor domo_, or overseer. Thechief speaker signified that he was absent, and that he did not expecthint to return until several suns rose and set. We then signified wewere hungry, and very soon a loaf made of pulverized acorns, mingledwith wild fruit of some kind, was brought to us with a basket of water. These Indians manufacture small baskets which are impervious to water, and they are used as basins to drink from, and for other purposes. 

I knew that we had been travelling out of our course all day, and itwas now three o'clock, P. M. Rain and mist had succeeded each other, andthe sun was hidden from us by dark and threatening masses of clouds. Wehad no compass with us, and could not determine the course to NappaValley or Sonoma. Believing that the Indian would have some knowledgeof the latter place, we made him comprehend that we wished to go there, and inquired the route. He pointed in a direction which he signifiedwould take us to Sonoma. We pointed in another course, which it seemedto us was the right one. But he persisted in asserting that he wasright. After some further talk, for the shirt on my back he promised toguide us, and, placing a ragged skin on one of our horses, he mountedthe animal and led the way over the next range of hills. The rain soonpoured down so hard upon the poor fellow's bare skin, that he beggedpermission to return, to which we would not consent; but, out ofcompassion to him, I took off my over-coat, with which he covered hisswarthy hide, and seemed highly delighted with the shelter from thepitiless storm it afforded him, or with the supposition that I intendedto present it to him. 

Crossing several elevated and rocky hills, just before sunset, we had aview of a large timbered valley and a sheet of water, the extent ofwhich we could not compass with the eye, on account of the thickness ofthe atmosphere. When we came in sight of the water, the Indian utteredvarious exclamations of pleasure; and, although I had felt but littlefaith in him as a pilot from the first, I began now to think that wewere approaching the Bay of San Francisco. Descending into the valley, we travelled along a small stream two or three miles, and werecontinuing on in the twilight, when we heard the tinkling of a cow-bellon the opposite side of the stream. Certain, from this sound, thatthere must be an encampment near, I halted and hallooed at the top ofmy voice. The halloo called forth a similar response, with aninterrogation in English, "Who the d----l are you--Spaniards orAmericans?" "Americans. " "Show yourselves, then, d----n you, and let ussee the colour of your hide, " was the answer. 

"Tell us where we can cross the stream, and you shall soon see us, " wasour reply. 

"Ride back and follow the sound of my voice, and be d----d to you, andyou can cross the stream with a deer's jump. "

Accordingly, following the sound of the voice of this rough colloquist, who shouted repeatedly, we rode back in the dark several hundred yards, and, plunging into the stream, the channel of which was deep, we gainedthe other side, where we found three men standing ready to receive us. We soon discovered them to be a party of professional hunters, ortrappers, at the head of which was Mr. Greenwood, a famed mountaineer, commonly known as "Old Greenwood. " They invited us to their camp, situated across a small opening in the timber about half a miledistant. Having unsaddled our tired animals and turned them loose tograze for the night, we placed our baggage under the cover of a smalltent, and, taking our seats by the huge camp fire, made known as far aswas expedient our business. We soon ascertained that we had ridden theentire day (about 40 miles) directly out of our course to Nappa Valleyand Sonoma, and that the Indian's information was all wrong. We werenow near the shore of a large lake, called the _Laguna_ byCalifornians, some fifty or sixty miles in length, which lake issituated about sixty or seventy miles north of the Bay of SanFrancisco; consequently, to-morrow we shall be compelled to retrace oursteps and find the trail that leads from Harriett's house to Nappa, which escaped us this morning. We received such directions, however, from Mr. Greenwood, that we could not fail to find it. 

We found in the camp, much to our gratification after a long fast, anabundance of fat grisly bear-meat and the most delicious and tenderdeer-meat. The camp looked like a butcher's stall. The pot filled withbear-flesh was boiled again and again, and the choice pieces of thetender venison were roasting, and disappearing with singular rapidityfor a long time. Bread there was none of course. Such a delicacy isunknown to the mountain trappers, nor is it much desired by them. 

The hunting party consisted of Mr. Greenwood, Mr. Turner, Mr. Adams, and three sons of Mr. G. , one grown, and the other two boys 10 or 12years of age, half-bred Indians, the mother being a Crow. One of theseboys is named "Governor Boggs, " after ex-governor Boggs of Missouri, anold friend of the father. Mr. Greenwood, or "Old Greenwood, " as he isfamiliarly called, according to his own statement, is 83 years of age, and has been a mountain trapper between 40 and 50 years. He lived amongthe Crow Indians, where he married his wife, between thirty and fortyyears. He is about six feet in height, raw-boned and spare in flesh, but muscular, and, notwithstanding his old age, walks with all theerectness and elasticity of youth. His dress was of tanned buckskin, and from its appearance one would suppose its antiquity to be nearlyequal to the age of its wearer. It had probably never been off his bodysince he first put it on. "I am, " said he, "an old man--eighty-threeyears--it is a long time to live;--eighty-three years last--. I haveseen all the Injun varmints of the Rocky Mountains, --have foutthem--lived with them. I have many children--I don't know how many, they are scattered; but my wife was a Crow. The Crows are a bravenation, --the bravest of all the Injuns; they fight like the white man;they don't kill you in the dark like the Black-foot varmint, and thentake your scalp and run, the cowardly reptiles. Eighty-three yearslast----; and yet old Greenwood could handle the rifle as well as thebest on 'em, but for this infernal humour in my eyes, caught threeyears ago in bringing the emigrators over the _de_-sart. " (A circle ofscarlet surrounded his weeping eyeballs. ) "I can't see jist now as wellas I did fifty years ago, but I can always bring the game or theslinking and skulking Injun. I have jist come over the mountains fromSweetwater with the emigrators as pilot, living upon bacon, bread, milk, and sich like mushy stuff. It don't agree with me; it never willagree with a man of my age, eighty-three last ----; that is a long timeto live. I thought I would take a small hunt to get a little exercisefor my old bones, and some good fresh meat. The grisly bear, fat deer, and poultry and fish--them are such things as a man should eat. I cameup here, where I knew there was plenty. I was here twenty years ago, before any white man see this lake and the rich land about it. It'sfilled with big fish. That's beer-springs here, better than them in theRocky Mountains; thar's a mountain of solid brimstone, and thar's minesof gold and silver, all of which I know'd many years ago, and I canshow them to you if you will go with me in the morning. Theseblack-skinned Spaniards have rebelled again. Wall, they can make afuss, d--m 'em, and have revolutions every year, but they can't fight. It's no use to go after 'em, unless when you ketch 'em you kill 'em. They won't stand an' fight like men, an' when they can't fight longergive up; but the skared varmints run away and then make another fuss, d--m 'em. " Such was the discourse of our host. 

The camp consisted of two small tents, which had probably been obtainedfrom the emigrants. They were pitched so as to face each other, andbetween them there was a large pile of blazing logs. On the treessurrounding the camp were stretched the skins of various animals whichhad been killed in the hunt; some preserved for their hides, others forthe fur. Bear-meat and venison enough for a winter's supply werehanging from the limbs. The swearing of Turner, a man of immense frameand muscular power, during our evening's conversation, was almostterrific. I had heard mountain swearing before, but his went far beyondall former examples. He could do all the swearing for our army inMexico, and then have a surplus. 

The next morning (Nov. 3rd), after partaking of a hearty breakfast, andsuspending from our saddles a sufficient supply of venison andbear-meat for two days' journey, we started back on our own trail. Weleft our miserable Indian pilot at his _rancheria_. I gave him theshirt from my back, out of compassion for his sufferings--he welldeserved a _dressing_ of another kind. It rained all day, and, when wereached Barnett's (the empty house) after four o'clock, P. M. , the blackmasses of clouds which hung over the valley portended a storm sofurious, that we thought it prudent to take shelter under a roof forthe night. Securing our animals in one of the inclosures, we encampedin the deserted dwelling. The storm soon commenced, and raged androared with a fierceness and strength rarely witnessed. The hogs andpigs came squealing about the door for admission; and the cattle andhorses in the valley, terrified by the violence of elemental battle, ran backwards and forwards, bellowing and snorting. In comfortablequarters, we roasted and enjoyed our bear-meat and venison, and leftthe wind, rain, lightning, and thunder to play their pranks as bestsuited them, which they did all night. 

On the morning of the fourth, we found the trail described to us by Mr. Greenwood, and, crossing a ridge of mountains, descended into thevalley of Nappa creek, which empties into the Bay of San Francisco justbelow the Straits of Carquinez. This is a most beautiful and fertilevalley, and is already occupied by several American settlers. Among thefirst who established themselves here is Mr. Yount, who soon aftererected a flouring-mill and saw-mill. These have been in operationseveral years. Before reaching Mr. Yount's settlement we passed asaw-mill more recently erected, by Dr. Bale. There seems to be anabundance of pine and red-wood (a species of fir), in the _canadas_. Nolumber can be superior for building purposes than that sawed from thered-wood. The trees are of immense size, straight, free from knots andtwists, and the wood is soft, and easily cut with plane and saw. Arriving at the residence of Dr. Bale, in Nappa Valley, we werehospitably entertained by him with a late breakfast of coffee, boiledeggs, steaks, and _tortillas_, served up in American style. LeavingNappa, after travelling down it some ten or twelve miles, we crossedanother range of hills or mountains, and reached Sonoma after dark, ourclothing thoroughly drenched with the rain, which, with intermissions, had fallen the whole day. I put up at the same quarters as when herebefore. The house was covered with a dilapidated thatch, and the raindripped through it, not leaving a dry spot on the floor of the roomwhere we slept. But there was an advantage in this--the inundation ofwater had completely discomfited the army of fleas that infested thebuilding when we were here before. 

It rained incessantly on the fifth. Col. Russell arrived at Sonomaearly in the morning, having arrived from San Francisco last night. Procuring a boat belonging to Messrs. Howard and Mellus, lying at the_embarcadero_, I left for San Francisco, but, owing to the storm andcontrary winds, did not arrive there until the morning of the seventh, being two nights and a day in the creek, and _churning_ on the bay. Purchasing a quantity of clothing, and other supplies for volunteers, Isailed early on the morning of the eighth for New Helvetia, in a boatbelonging to the sloop-of-war Portsmouth, manned by U. S. Sailors, underthe command of Midshipman Byres, a native of Maysville, Ky. We encampedthat night at the head of "Soeson, " having sailed about fifty miles ina severe storm of wind and rain. The waves frequently dashed entirelyover our little craft. The rain continued during the ninth, and weencamped at night about the mouth of the Sacramento. On the night ofthe tenth we encamped at "Meritt's camp, " the rain still falling, andthe river rising rapidly, rendering navigation up-stream impossible, except with the aid of the tide. On the night of the eleventh weencamped fifteen miles below New Helvetia, still raining. On themorning of the twelfth the clouds cleared away, and the sun burst outwarm and spring-like. After having been exposed to the rain for ten ortwelve days, without having the clothing upon me once dry, the sight ofthe sun, and the influence of his beams, were cheering and mostagreeable. We arrived at New Helvetia about twelve o'clock. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

 Leave New Helvetia Pleasant weather Meet Indian volunteers Tule boats Engagement between a party of Americans and Californians Death of Capt. Burroughs and Capt. Foster Capture of Thomas O. Larkin Reconnaissance San Juan Bautista Neglect of the dead Large herds of Cattle Join Col. Fremont. 

On my arrival at New Helvetia, I found there Mr. Jacob. Mr. Reed hadnot yet returned from the mountains. Nothing had been heard from Mr. Lippincott, or Mr. Grayson, since I left the latter at Sonoma. Anauthorized agent of Col. Fremont had arrived at the fort the day that Ileft it, with power to take the _caballada_ of public horses, and toenroll volunteers for the expedition to the south. He had left two orthree days before my arrival, taking with him all the horses andtrappings suitable for service, and all the men who had previously_rendezvoused_ at the fort, numbering about sixty, as I understood. Atmy request messengers were sent by Mr. Kern, commandant of the fort, and by Captain Sutter, to the Indian chiefs on the San Joaquin Riverand its tributaries, to meet me at the most convenient points on thetrail, with such warriors of their tribes as chose to volunteer assoldiers of the United States, and perform military service during thecampaign. I believed that they would be useful as scouts and spies. Onthe 14th and 15th eight men (emigrants who had just arrived in thecountry, and had been enrolled at Johnson's settlement by Messrs. Reedand Jacob) arrived at the fort; and on the morning of the 16th, withthese, we started to join Colonel Fremont, supposed to be at Monterey;and we encamped at night on the Cosçumne River. 

The weather is now pleasant. We are occasionally drenched with a showerof rain, after which the sun shines warm and bright; the fresh grass isspringing up, and the birds sing and chatter in the groves and thicketsas we pass through them. I rode forward, on the morning of the 17th, tothe Mickelemes River (twenty-five miles from the Cosçumne), where I metAntonio, an Indian chief, with twelve warriors, who had assembled herofor the purpose of joining us. The names of the warriors were asfollows;--Santiago, Masua, Kiubu, Tocoso, Nonelo, Michael, Weala, Arkell, Nicolas, Heel, Kasheano, Estephen. Our party coming up in theafternoon, we encamped here for the day, in order to give the Indianstime to make further preparations for the march. On the 18th we met, atthe ford of the San Joaquin River, another party of eighteen Indians, including their chiefs. Their names were--José Jesus, Filipe, Ray-mundo, and Carlos, chiefs; Huligario, Bonefasio, Francisco, Nicolas, Pablo, Feliciano, San Antonio, Polinario, Manuel, Graviano, Salinordio, Romero, and Merikeeldo, warriors. The chiefs and some ofthe warriors of these parties were partially clothed, but most of themwere naked, except a small garment around the loins. They were armedwith bows and arrows. We encamped with our sable companions on the eastbank of the San Joaquin. 

The next morning (Nov. 19), the river being too high to ford, weconstructed, by the aid of the Indians, tule-boats, upon which ourbaggage was ferried over the stream. The tule-boat consists of bundlesof tule firmly hound together with willow withes. When completed, inshape it is not unlike a small keel-boat. The buoyancy of one of thesecraft is surprising. Six men, as many as could sit upon the deck, werepassed over, in the largest of our three boats, at a time. The boatswere towed backwards and forwards by Indian swimmers--one at the bow, and one at the stern as steersman, and two on each side as propellers. The poor fellows, when they came out of the cold water, trembled as ifattacked with an ague. We encamped near the house of Mr. Livermore(previously described), where, after considerable difficulty, Iobtained sufficient beef for supper, Mr. L. Being absent. Most of theIndians did not get into camp until a late hour of the night, and someof them not until morning. They complained very much of sore feet, andwanted horses to ride, which I promised them as soon as they reachedthe Pueblo de San José. 

About ten o'clock on the morning of the 20th, we slaughtered a beef inthe hills between Mr. Livermore's and the mission of San José; and, leaving the hungry party to regale themselves upon it and then followon, I proceeded immediately to the Pueblo de San José to make furtherarrangements, reaching that place just after sunset. On the 21st Iprocured clothing for the Indians, which, when they arrived with Mr. Jacob in the afternoon, was distributed among them. 

On my arrival at the Pueblo, I found the American population there muchexcited by intelligence just received of the capture on the 15th, between Monterey and the mission of San Juan, of Thos. O. Larkin, Esq. , late U. S. Consul in California, by a party of Californians, and of anengagement between the same Californians and a party of Americansescorting a _caballada_ of 400 horses to Colonel Fremont's camp inMonterey. In this affair three Americans were killed, viz. : Capt. Burroughs, Capt. Foster, and Mr. Eames, late of St. Louis, Mo. Themission of San Juan lies on the road between the Pueblo de San José andMonterey, about fifty miles from the former place, and thirty from thelatter. The skirmish took place ten miles south of San Juan, near theMonterey road. I extract the following account of this affair from ajournal of his captivity published by Mr. Larkin:--

"On the 10th of November, from information received of the sickness ofmy family in San Francisco, where they had gone to escape the expectedrevolutionary troubles in Monterey, and from letters from CaptainMontgomery requesting my presence respecting some stores for thePortsmouth, I, with one servant, left Monterey for San Francisco, knowing that for one month no Californian forces had been within 100miles of us. That night I put up at the house of Don Joaquin Gomez, sending my servant to San Juan, six miles beyond, to request Mr. J. Thompson to wait for me, as he was on the road for San Francisco. Aboutmidnight I was aroused from my bed by the noise made by tenCalifornians (unshaved and unwashed for months, being in the mountains)rushing into my chamber with guns, swords, pistols, and torches intheir hands. I needed but a moment to be fully awake and know my exactsituation; the first cry was, 'Como estamos, Senor Consul. ' 'Vamos, Senor Larkin. ' At my bedside were several letters that I had re-readbefore going to bed. On dressing myself, while my captors were saddlingmy horse, I assorted these letters, and put them into differentpockets. After taking my own time to dress and arrange my valise, westarted, and rode to a camp of seventy or eighty men on the banks ofthe Monterey River; there each officer and principal person passed thetime of night with me, and a remark or two. The commandante took me onone side, and informed me that his people demanded that I should writeto San Juan, to the American captain of volunteers, saying that I hadleft Monterey to visit the distressed families of the river, andrequest or demand that twenty men should meet me before daylight, thatI could station them, before my return to town, in a manner to protectthese families. The natives, he said, were determined on the act beingaccomplished. I at first endeavoured to reason with him on the infamyand the impossibility of the deed, but to no avail; he said my lifedepended on the letter; that he was willing, nay, anxious to preservemy life as an old acquaintance, but could not control his people inthis affair. From argument I came to a refusal; he advised, urged, anddemanded. At this period an officer called out * * * * (Come here, those who are named. ) I then said, 'In this manner you may act andthreaten night by night; my life on such condition is of no value orpleasure to me. I am by accident your prisoner--make the most ofme--write, I will not; shoot as you see fit, and I am done talking onthe subject. ' I left him, and went to the camp fire. For a half-hour ormore there was some commotion around me, when all disturbance subsided. 

"At daylight we started, with a flag flying and a drum beating, andtravelled eight or ten miles, when we camped in a low valley or hollow. There they caught with the lasso three or four head of cattle belongingto the nearest rancho, and breakfasted. The whole day their outridersrode in every direction, on the look-out, to see if the Americancompany left the mission of San Juan, or Lieutenant-Colonel Fremontleft Monterey; they also rode to all the neighbouring ranches, andforced the rancheros to join them. At one o'clock, they began theirmarch with one hundred and thirty men (and two or three hundred extrahorses); they marched in four single files, occupying four positions, myself under charge of an officer and five or six men in the centre. Their plan of operation for the night was, to rush into San Juan ten orfifteen men, who were to retreat, under the expectation that theAmericans would follow them, in which case the whole party outside wasto cut them off. I was to be retained in the centre of the party. Tenmiles south of the mission, they encountered eight or ten Americans, apart of whom retreated into a low ground covered with oaks, the othersreturned to the house of Senor Gomez, to alarm their companions. Forover one hour the hundred and thirty Californians surrounded the six oreight Americans, occasionally giving and receiving shots. During thisperiod, I was several times requested, then commanded, to go among theoaks and bring out my countrymen, and offer them their lives on givingup their rifles and persons. I at last offered to go and call them out, on condition that they should return to San Juan or go to Monterey, with their arms; this being refused, I told the commandante to go inand bring them out himself. While they were consulting how this couldbe done, fifty Americans came down on them, which caused an action ofabout twenty or thirty minutes. Thirty or forty of the natives leavingthe field at the first fire, they remained drawn off by fives and tensuntil the Americans had the field to themselves. Both parties remainedwithin a mile of each other until dark. Our countrymen lost CaptainBurroughs of St. Louis, Missouri, Captain Foster, and two others, withtwo or three wounded. The Californians lost two of their countrymen, and José Garcia, of Val. , Chili, with seven wounded. "

The following additional particulars I extract from the "Californian"newspaper of November 21, 1846, published at Monterey: "Burroughs andFoster were killed at the first onset. The Americans fired, and thencharged on the enemy with their empty rifles, and ran them off. However, they still kept rallying, and firing now and then a musket atthe Americans until about eleven o'clock at night, when one of theWalla-Walla Indians offered his services to come into Monterey and giveColonel Fremont notice of what was passing. Soon after he started hewas pursued by a party of the enemy. The foremost in pursuit drove alance at the Indian, who, trying to parry it, received the lancethrough his hand; he immediately, with his other hand, seized histomahawk, and struck his opponent, splitting his head from the crown tothe mouth. By this time the others had come up, and, with the mostextraordinary dexterity and bravery, the Indian vanquished two more, and the rest ran away. He rode on towards this town as far as his horsewas able to carry him, and then left his horse and saddle, and came inon foot. He arrived here about eight o'clock on Tuesday morning, December 17th. "

The Americans engaged in this affair were principally the volunteeremigrants just arrived in the country, and who had left New Helvetia afew days in advance of me. 

Colonel Fremont marched from Monterey as soon as he heard of thisskirmish, in pursuit of the Californians, but did not meet with them. He then encamped at the mission of San Juan, waiting there the arrivalof the remaining volunteers from above. 

Leaving the Pueblo on the afternoon of the 25th, in conjunction with asmall force commanded by Captain Weber, we made an excursion into thehills, near a rancho owned by Captain W. , where were herded some two orthree hundred public horses. It had been rumoured that a party ofCalifornians were hovering about here, intending to capture and driveoff these horses. The next day (November 26th), without having met anyhostile force, driving these horses before us, we encamped at Mr. Murphy's rancho. Mr. Murphy is the father of a large and respectablefamily, who emigrated to this country some three or four years sincefrom, the United States, being originally from Canada. His daughter, Miss Helen, who did the honours of the rude cabin, in manners, conversation, and personal charms, would grace any drawing-room. On the28th, we proceeded down the Pueblo valley, passing Gilroy's rancho, andreaching the mission of San Juan just before dark. The hills andvalleys are becoming verdant with fresh grass and wild oats, the latterbeing, in places, two or three inches high. So tender is it, however, that it affords but little nourishment to our horses. 

The mission of San Juan Bautista has been one of the most extensive ofthese establishments. The principal buildings are more durablyconstructed than those of other missions I have visited, and they arein better condition. Square bricks are used in paving the corridors andthe ground floors. During the twilight, I strayed accidentally througha half-opened gate into a cemetery, inclosed by a high wall in the rearof the church. The spectacle was ghastly enough. The exhumed skeletonsof those who had been deposited here lay thickly strewn around, showingbut little respect for the sanctity of the grave, or the rights of thedead from the living. The cool damp night-breeze sighed and moanedthrough the shrubbery and ruinous arches and corridors, planted andreared by those whose neglected bones were now exposed to the rudeinsults of man and beast. I could not but imagine that the voices ofcomplaining spirits mingled with these dismal and mournful tones; andplucking a cluster of roses, the fragrance of which was delicious, Ileft the spot, to drive away the sadness and melancholy produced by thescene. 

The valley contiguous to the mission is extensive, well watered by alarge _arroyo_, and highly fertile. The gardens and other lands fortillage are inclosed by willow hedges. Elevated hills, or mountains, bound this valley on the east and west. Large herds of cattle werescattered over the valley, greedily cropping the fresh green herbage, which now carpets mountain and plain. 

Colonel Fremont marched from San Juan this morning, and encamped, as welearned on our arrival, ten miles south. Proceeding up the _arroyo_ onthe 29th, we reached the camp of Colonel F. About noon. I immediatelyreported, and delivered over to him the men and horses under my charge. The men were afterwards organized into a separate corps, of which Mr. R. T. Jacob, my travelling companion, was appointed the captain byColonel Fremont. 

CHAPTER IX. 

 California battalion Their appearance and costume List of the officers Commence our march to Los Angeles Appearance of the country in the vicinity of San Juan Slaughter of beeves Astonishing consumption of beef by the men Beautiful morning Ice Salinas river and valley Californian prisoners Horses giving out from fatigue Mission of San Miguel Sheep Mutton March on foot More prisoners taken Death of Mr. Stanley An execution Dark night Capture of the mission of San Luis Obispo Orderly conduct and good deportment of the California battalion. 

_November 30_. --The battalion of mounted riflemen, under the command ofLieutenant-Colonel Fremont, numbers, rank and file, including Indians, and servants, 428. With the exception of the exploring party, whichleft the United States with Colonel F. , they are composed of volunteersfrom the American settlers, and the emigrants who have arrived in thecountry within a few weeks. The latter have generally furnished theirown ammunition and other equipments for the expedition. Most of theseare practised riflemen, men of undoubted courage, and capable ofbearing any fatigue and privations endurable by veteran troops. TheIndians are composed of a party of Walla-Wallas from Oregon, and aparty of native Californians. Attached to the battalion are two piecesof artillery, under the command of Lieutenant McLane, of the navy. Inthe appearance of our small army there is presented but little of "thepomp and circumstance of glorious war. " There are no plumes noddingover brazen helmets, nor coats of broadcloth spangled with lace andbuttons. A broad-brimmed low-crowned hat, a shirt of blue flannel, orbuckskin, with pantaloons and mocassins of the same, all generally muchthe worse for wear, and smeared with mud and dust, make up the costumeof the party, officers as well as men. A leathern girdle surrounds thewaist, from which are suspended a bowie and a hunter's knife, andsometimes a brace of pistols. These, with the rifle andholster-pistols, are the arms carried by officers and privates. Asingle bugle (and a sorry one it is) composes the band. Many an embryoNapoleon, in his own conceit, whose martial spirit has been excited toflaming intensity of heat by the peacock-plumage and gaudy trappings ofour militia companies, when marching through the streets to the soundof drum, fife, and brass band, if he could have looked upon us, andthen consulted the state of the military thermometer within him, wouldprobably have discovered that the mercury of his heroism had fallenseveral degrees below zero. He might even have desired that we shouldnot come

 "Between the wind and his nobility. "

War, stripped of its pageantry, possesses but few of the attractionswith which poetry and painting have embellished it. The following is alist of the officers composing the California Battalion:--Lieut. -colonelJ. G. Fremont, commanding; A. H. Gillespie, major; P. B. Reading, paymaster; H. King, commissary; J. R. Snyder, quartermaster, sinceappointed a land-surveyor by Colonel Mason; Wm. H. Russell, ordnanceofficer; T. Talbot, lieutenant and adjutant; J. J. Myers, sergeant-major, appointed lieutenant in January, 1847. 

_Company A_. --Richard Owens, captain; Wm. N. Loker, 1st lieutenant, appointed adjutant, Feb. 10th, 1847; B. M. Hudspeth, 2d lieutenant, appointed captain, Feb. 1847, Wm. Findlay, 2d lieutenant, appointedcaptain, Feb. 1847. 

_Company B_. --Henry Ford, captain; Andrew Copeland, 1st lieutenant. 

_Company C_. --Granville P. Swift, captain; Wm. Baldridge, 1stlieutenant; Wm. Hartgrove, 2d do. 

_Company D_. --John Sears, captain; Wm. Bradshaw, 1st lieutenant. 

_Company E_. --John Grigsby, captain; Archibald Jesse, 1st lieutenant. 

_Company F_. --L. W. Hastings, captain (author of a work on California);Wornbough, 1st lieutenant; J. M. Hudspeth, 2d do. 

_Company G_. --Thompson, captain; Davis 1st lieutenant; Rock, 2d do. 

_Company H_. --R. T. Jacobs, captain; Edwin Bryant, 1st lieutenant(afterwards alcalde at San Francisco); Geo. M. Lippincott, 2d do. , ofNew York. 

_Artillery Company_. --Louis McLane, captain (afterwards major); John. K. Wilson, 1st lieutenant, appointed captain in January, 1847; Wm. Blackburn, 2d do. (now alcalde of Santa Cruz). 

_Officers on detached Service and doing Duty at the South_. --S. Hensley, captain; S. Gibson, do. (lanced through the body at San Pascual);Miguel Pedrorena, do. , Spaniard (appointed by Stockton); Stgo. Arguello, do. , Californian (appointed by do. ); Bell, do. (appointedby do. ), old resident of California (Los Angeles); H. Rhenshaw, 1stlieutenant, (appointed by do. ); A. Godey, do. (appointed by do. ); Jas. Barton, do. (appointed by do. ); L. Arguello, do. , Californian(appointed by do. ). 

After a march of six or eight hours, up the valley of the _arroyo_, through a heavy rain, and mud so deep that several of our horses gaveout from exhaustion, we encamped in a circular bottom, near a desertedadobe house. A _caballada_, of some 500 or 600 loose horses and mulesis driven along with us, but many of them are miserable sore-backedskeletons, having been exhausted with hard usage and bad fare duringthe summer campaign. Besides these, we have a large number ofpack-mules, upon which all our baggage and provisions are transported. Distance 10 miles. 

We did not move on the 1st and 2d of December. There being no cattle inthe vicinity of our camp, a party was sent back to the mission, on themorning of the 1st, who in the afternoon returned, driving before themabout 100 head, most of them in good condition. After a sufficientnumber were slaughtered to supply the camp with meat for the day, theremainder were confined in a _corral_ prepared for the purpose, to bedriven along with us, and slaughtered from day to day. The rain hascontinued, with short intermissions, since we commenced our march onthe 30th of November. The ground has become saturated with water, andthe small branches are swollen into large streams. Notwithstandingthese discomforts, the men are in good spirits, and enjoy themselves insinging, telling stories, and playing _monte_. 

_December 3_. --The rain ceased falling about 8 o'clock this morning;and, the clouds breaking away, the sun cheered us once more with hispleasant beams. The battalion was formed into a hollow square, and, theorder of the day being read, we resumed our march. Our progress, through the deep mud, was very slow. The horses were constantly givingout, and many were left behind. The young and tender grass upon whichthey feed affords but little nourishment, and hard labour soon exhauststhem. We encamped on a low bluff, near the _arroyo_, timbered withevergreen oak. Distance 8 miles. 

_December 4_. --I was ordered with a small party in advance thismorning. Proceeding up the valley a few miles, we left it, crossingseveral steep hills sparsely timbered with oak, from which we descendedinto another small valley, down which we continued to the point of itstermination, near some narrow and difficult mountain gorges. Inexploring the gorges, we discovered the trail of a party ofCalifornians, which had passed south several days before us, and founda horse which they had left in their march. This, doubtless, was aportion of the party which captured Mr. Larkin, and had the engagementbetween Monterey and St. Juan, on the 17th ult. The main body comingup, we encamped at three o'clock. The old grass around our camp isabundant; but having been so much washed by the rains, and consequentlyexhausted of its nutritious qualities, the animals refused to eat it. The country over which we have travelled to-day, and as far as I cansee, is mountainous and broken, little of it being adapted to otheragricultural purposes than grazing. 

Thirteen beeves are slaughtered every afternoon for the consumption ofthe battalion. These beeves are generally of good size, and in faircondition. Other provisions being entirely exhausted, beef constitutesthe only subsistence for the men, and most of the officers. Under thesecircumstances, the consumption of beef is astonishing. I do not knowthat I shall be believed when I state a fact, derived from observationand calculation, that the average consumption per man of fresh beef isat least ten pounds per day. Many of them, I believe, consume muchmore, and some of them less. Nor does this quantity appear to beinjurious to health, or fully to satisfy the appetite. I have seen someof the men roast their meat and devour it by the fire from the hour ofencamping until late bed-time. They would then sleep until one or twoo'clock in the morning, when, the cravings of hunger being greater thanthe desire for repose, the same occupation would be resumed, andcontinued until the order was given to march. The Californian beef isgenerally fat, juicy, and tender, and surpasses in flavour any which Iever tasted elsewhere. Distance 10 miles. 

_December 5_. --I rose before daylight. The moon shone brightly. Thetemperature was cold. The vapour in the atmosphere had congealed andfallen upon the ground in feathery flakes, covering it with a whitesemi-transparent veil, or crystal sheen, sparkling in the moonbeams. The smoke from the numerous camp-fires soon began to curl languidly upin graceful wreaths, settling upon the mountain summits. The scene wasone for the pencil and brush of the artist; but, when the envious sunrose, he soon stripped Madam Earth of her gauzy holiday morning-gown, and exposed her every-day petticoat of mud. 

Our march to-day has been one of great difficulty, through a deepbrushy mountain gorge, through which it was almost impossible to forcethe field-pieces. In one place they were lowered with ropes down asteep and nearly perpendicular precipice of great height and depth. Weencamped about three o'clock, P. M. , in a small valley. Many of thehorses gave out on the march, and were left behind by the men, who camestraggling into camp until a late hour of the evening, bringing theirsaddles and baggage upon their shoulders. I noticed, while crossing anelevated ridge of hills, flakes of snow flying in the air, but meltingbefore they reached the ground. The small spring-branch on which weencamped empties into the Salinas River. The country surrounding us iselevated and broken, and the soil sandy, with but little timber orgrass upon it. Distance 12 miles. 

_December 6_. --Morning clear and cool. Crossed an undulating country, destitute of timber and water, and encamped in a circular valleysurrounded by elevated hills, through which flows a small tributary ofthe Salinas. The summits of the mountains in sight are covered withsnow, but the temperature in the valleys is pleasant. Distance 15miles. 

_December 7_. --Ice, the first I have seen since entering California, formed in the branch, of the thickness of window-glass. We reached thevalley of the Salinas about eleven o'clock A. M. , and encamped for theday. The river Salinas (laid down in some maps as Rio San Buenaventura)rises in the mountains to the south, and has a course of some sixty oreighty miles, emptying into the Pacific about twelve miles north ofMonterey. The valley, as it approaches the ocean, is broad and fertile, and there are many fine ranchos upon it. But, higher up, the streambecomes dry in the summer, and the soil of the valley is arid andsandy. The width of the stream at this point is about thirty yards. Itsbanks are skirted by narrow belts of small timber. A range of elevatedmountains rises between this valley and the coast. A court-martial washeld to-day, for the trial of sundry offenders. Distance 8 miles. 

_December 8_. --Morning cool, clear, and pleasant. Two Californians werearrested by the rear-guard near a deserted rancho, and brought intocamp. One of them turned out to be a person known to be friendly to theAmericans. There has been but little variation in the soil or scenery. But few attempts appear to have been made to settle this portion ofCalifornia. The thefts and hostilities of the Tular Indians are said tobe one of the causes preventing its settlement. Distance 15 miles. 

_December 9_. --The mornings are cool, but the middle of the day is toowarm to ride comfortably with our coats on. Our march has beenfatiguing and difficult, through several brushy ravines and over steepand elevated hills. Many horses gave out as usual, and were left, frominability to travel. Our _caballada_ is diminishing rapidly. Distance10 miles. 

_December 10_. --Our march has been on the main beaten trail, dry andhard, and over a comparatively level country. We passed the mission ofSan Miguel about three o'clock, and encamped in a grove of large oaktimber, three or four miles south of it. This mission is situated onthe upper waters of the Salinas, in an extensive plain. Under theadministration of the _padres_ it was a wealthy establishment, andmanufactures of various kinds were carried on. They raised immensenumbers of sheep, the fleeces of which were manufactured by the Indiansinto blankets and coarse cloths. Their granaries were filled with anabundance of maize and frijoles, and their store-rooms with othernecessaries of life, from the ranchos belonging to the mission lands inthe vicinity. Now all the buildings, except the church and theprincipal range of houses contiguous, have fallen into ruins, and anEnglishman, his wife, and one small child, with two or three Indianservants, are the sole inhabitants. The church is the largest I haveseen in the country, and its interior is in good repair, although ithas not probably been used for the purpose of public worship for manyyears. The Englishman professes to have purchased the mission and allthe lands belonging to it for 300 dollars. 

Our stock of cattle being exhausted, we feasted on Californian mutton, sheep being more abundant than cattle at this mission. The wool, Inoticed, was coarse, but the mutton was of an excellent quality. Thecountry over which we have travelled to-day shows the marks of longdrought previous to the recent rains. The soil is sandy and gravelly, and the dead vegetation upon it is thin and stunted. About eighty ofour horses are reported to have given out and been left behind. Distance 20 miles. 

_December 12_. --To relieve our horses, which are constantly giving outfrom exhaustion, the grass being insufficient for their sustenancewhile performing labour, the entire battalion, officers and men, wereordered to march on foot, turning their horses, with the saddles andbridles upon them, into the general _caballada_, to be driven along bythe horse-guard. The day has been drizzly, cold, and disagreeable. Thecountry has a barren and naked appearance; but this, I believe, isattributable to the extreme drought that has prevailed in this regionfor one or two years past. We encamped near the rancho of a friendlyCalifornian--the man who was taken prisoner the other day and set atlarge. An Indian, said to be the servant of Tortoria Pico, was capturedhere by the advance party. A letter was found upon him, but thecontents of which I never learned. This being the first foot-march, there were, of course, many galled and blistered feet in the battalion. My servant obtained, with some difficulty, from the Indians at therancho, a pint-cup of _pinole_, or parched corn-meal, and a quart ortwo of wheat, which, being boiled, furnished some variety in our viandsat supper, fresh beef having been our only subsistence since thecommencement of the march from San Juan. Distance 12 miles. 

_December 13_. --A rainy disagreeable morning. Mr. Stanley, one of thevolunteers, and one of the gentlemen who so kindly supplied us withprovisions on Mary's River, died last night. He has been suffering froman attack of typhoid fever since the commencement of our march, andunable most of the time to sit upon his horse. He was buried thismorning in a small circular opening in the timber near our camp. Thebattalion was formed in a hollow square surrounding the grave which hadbeen excavated for the final resting-place of our deceased friend andcomrade. There was neither bier, nor coffin, nor pall--

 "Not a drum was heard, nor a funeral note. "

The cold earth was heaped upon his mortal remains in silent solemnity, and the ashes of a braver or a better man will never repose in thelonely hills of California. 

After the funeral the battalion was marched a short distance to witnessanother scene, not more mournful, but more harrowing than the last. TheIndian captured at the rancho yesterday was condemned to die. He wasbrought from his place of confinement and tied to a tree. Here he stoodsome fifteen or twenty minutes, until the Indians from a neighbouring_rancheria_ could be brought to witness the execution. A file ofsoldiers were then ordered to fire upon him. He fell upon his knees, and remained in that position several minutes without uttering a groan, and then sank upon the earth. No human being could have met his fatewith more composure, or with stronger manifestations of courage. It wasa scene such as I desire never to witness again. 

A cold rain fell upon us during the entire day's march. We encamped atfour o'clock, P. M. ; but the rain poured down in such torrents that itwas impossible to light our camp-fires and keep them burning. Thiscontinued nearly the whole night, and I have rarely passed a night moreuncomfortably. A scouting party brought in two additional prisonersthis evening. Another returned, and reported the capture of a number ofhorses, and the destruction of a rancho by fire. Distance 12 miles. 

_December 14_. --The battalion commenced its march on foot and in aheavy rain. The mud is very deep, and we have been compelled to wadeseveral streams of considerable depth, being swollen by the recentrains. At one o'clock a halt was ordered, and beef slaughtered andcooked for dinner. The march was resumed late in the afternoon, and theplain surrounding the mission of San Luis Obispo was reached in thepitch darkness of the night, a family in the _canada_ having been takenprisoners by the advance party to prevent them from giving the alarm. The battalion was so disposed as to surround the mission and takeprisoners all contained within it. The place was entered in greatconfusion, on account of the darkness, about nine o'clock. There was nomilitary force at the mission, and the few inhabitants were greatlyalarmed, as may well be supposed, by this sudden invasion. They made noresistance, and were all taken prisoners except one or two, who managedto escape and fled in great terror, no one knew where or how. It beingascertained that Tortoria Pico, a man who has figured conspicuously inmost of the Californian revolutions, was in the neighbourhood, a partywas despatched immediately to the place, and he was brought in aprisoner. The night was rainy and boisterous, and the soldiers werequartered to the best advantage in the miserable mud houses, and noacts of violence or outrage of any kind were committed. 

The men composing the Californian battalion, as I have before stated, have been drawn from many sources, and are roughly clad, andweather-beaten in their exterior appearance; but I feel it but justicehere to state my belief, that no military party ever passed through anenemy's country and observed the same strict regard for the rights ofits population. I never heard of an outrage, or even a trespass beingcommitted by one of the American volunteers during our entire march. Every American appeared to understand perfectly the duty which he owedto himself and others in this respect, and the deportment of thebattalion might be cited as a model for imitation. Distance 18 miles. 

CHAPTER X. 

 Tremendous rain Mission of San Luis Obispo Gardens Various fruits Farm Cactus tuna Calinche Pumpkins Trial of Tortoria Pico Procession of women Pico's pardon Leave San Luis Surf of the Pacific Captain Dana Tempestuous night Mission of St. Ynes Effects of drought Horses exhausted St. Ynes Mountain View of the plain of Santa Barbara and the Pacific A wretched Christmas-day Descent of St. Ynes Mountain Terrible storm Frightful destruction of horses Dark night What we are fighting for Arrive at Santa Barbara Town deserted. 

_December 15_. --The rain fell in cataracts the entire day. The smallstreams which flow from the mountains through, and water the valley of, San Luis Obispo, are swollen by the deluge of water from the cloudsinto foaming unfordable torrents. In order not to trespass upon thepopulation at the mission, in their miserable abodes of mud, the churchwas opened, and a large number of the soldiers were quartered in it. Aguard, however, was set day and night, over the chancel and all otherproperty contained in the building, to prevent its being injured ordisturbed. The decorations of the church are much the same as I havebefore described. The edifice is large, and the interior in goodrepair. The floor is paved with square bricks. I noticed a commonhand-organ in the church, which played the airs we usually hear fromorgan-grinders in the street. 

Besides the main large buildings connected with the church, there arestanding, and partially occupied, several small squares of adobehouses, belonging to this mission. The heaps of mud, and crumblingwalls outside of these, are evidence that the place was once of muchgreater extent, and probably one of the most opulent and prosperousestablishments of the kind in the country. The lands surrounding themission are finely situated for cultivation and irrigation ifnecessary. There are several large gardens, inclosed by high andsubstantial walls, which now contain a great variety of fruit-trees andshrubbery. I noticed the orange, fig, palm, olive, and grape. There arealso large inclosures hedged in by the prickly-pear (cactus), whichgrows to an enormous size, and makes an impervious barrier against manor beast. The stalks of some of these plants are of the thickness of aman's body, and grow to the height of fifteen feet. A juicy fruit isproduced by the prickly-pear, named _tuna_, from which a beverage issometimes made, called _calinche_. It has a pleasant flavour, as hasalso the fruit, which, when ripe, is blood-red. A small quantity ofpounded wheat was found here, which, being purchased, was served out tothe troops, about a pound to the man. Frijoles and pumpkins were alsoobtained, delicacies of no common order. 

_December 16_. --A court-martial was convened this morning for the trialof Pico, the principal prisoner, on the charge, I understood, of theforfeiture of his parole which had been taken on a former occasion. Thesentence of the court was, that he should be shot or hung, I do notknow which. A rumour is current among the population here, that therehas been an engagement between a party of Americans and Californians, near Los Angeles, in which the former were defeated with the loss ofthirty men killed. 

_December 17_. --Cool, with a hazy sky. While standing in one of thecorridors this morning, a procession of females passed by me, headed bya lady of fine appearance and dressed with remarkable taste andneatness, compared with those who followed her. Their _rebosos_concealed the faces of most of them, except the leader, whose beautifulfeatures, dare say, she thought (and justly) required no concealment. They proceeded to the quarters of Colonel Fremont, and their object, Iunderstood, was to petition for the reprieve or pardon of Pico, who hadbeen condemned to death by the court-martial yesterday, and whoseexecution was expected to take place this morning. Their intercessionwas successful, as no execution took place, and in a short time all theprisoners were discharged, and the order to saddle up and march given. We resumed our march at ten o'clock, and encamped just before sunset ina small but picturesque and fertile valley timbered with oak, so nearthe coast that the roar of the surf breaking against the shore could beheard distinctly. Distance seven miles. 

_December 18_. --Clear, with a delightful temperature. Before the sunrose the grass was covered with a white frost. The day throughout hasbeen calm and beautiful. A march of four miles brought us to the shoreof a small indentation in the coast of the Pacific, where vessels cananchor, and boats can land when the wind is not too fresh. The surf isnow rolling and foaming with prodigious energy--breaking upon the beachin long lines one behind the other, and striking the shore likecataracts. The hills and plains are verdant with a carpet of freshgrass, and the scattered live-oaks on all sides, appearing likeorchards of fruit-trees, give to the country an old and cultivatedaspect. The mountains bench away on our left, the low hills rising ingentle conical forms, beyond which are the more elevated andprecipitous peaks covered with snow. We encamped about three o'clocknear the rancho of Captain Dana, in a large and handsome valley wellwatered by an _arroyo_. 

Captain Dana is a native of Massachusetts, and has resided in thiscountry about thirty years. He is known and esteemed throughoutCalifornia for his intelligence and private virtues, and his unboundedgenerosity and hospitality. I purchased here a few loaves of wheatbread, and distributed them among the men belonging to our company asfar as they would go, a luxury which they have not indulged in sincethe commencement of the march. Distance 15 miles. 

_December 19_. --The night was cold and tempestuous, with a slight fallof rain. The clouds broke away after sunrise, and the day became warmand pleasant. We continued our march up the valley, and encamped nearits head. The table-land and hills are generally gravelly, but appearto be productive of fine grass. The soil of the bottom is of therichest and most productive composition. We crossed in the course ofthe day a wide flat plain, upon which were grazing large herds ofbrood-mares (_manadas_) and cattle. In the distance they resembledlarge armies approaching us. The peaks of the elevated mountains insight are covered with snow. A large number of horses gave out, strayed, and were left behind to-day, estimated at one hundred. The mencame into camp bringing their saddles on their backs, and some of themarriving late in the evening. Distance 18 miles. 

_December 20_. --Parties were sent back this morning to gather up horsesand baggage left on the march yesterday, and it was one o'clock beforethe rear-guard, waiting for the return of those, left camp. The mainbody made a short march and encamped early, in a small hollow near therancho of Mr. Faxon, through which flows an _arroyo_, the surroundinghills being timbered with evergreen oaks. The men amused themselvesduring the afternoon in target-shooting. Many of the battalion are finemarksmen with the rifle, and the average of shots could not easily besurpassed. The camp spread over an undulating surface of half a mile indiameter, and at night, when the fires were lighted, illuminating thegrove, with its drapery of drooping Spanish moss, it presented a mostpicturesque appearance. Distance 3 miles. 

_December 21_. --Clear and pleasant. A foot march was ordered, with theexception of the horse and baggage guard. We marched several milesthrough a winding hollow, passing a deserted rancho, and ascending withmuch labour a steep ridge of hills, descending which we entered ahandsome valley, and encamped upon a small stream about four miles fromthe mission of St. Ynes. The banks of the _arroyo_ are strewn with deadand prostrate timber, the trees, large and small, having beenoverthrown by tornados. The plain has suffered, like much of thecountry we have passed through, by a long-continued drought, but thecomposition of the soil is such as indicates fertility, and from theeffects of the late rains the grass is springing up with greatluxuriance, from places which before were entirely denuded ofvegetation. A party was sent from camp to inspect the mission, butreturned without making any important discoveries. Our horses are soweak that many of them are unable to carry their saddles, and were lefton the road as usual. A man had his leg broken on the march to-day, bythe kick of a mule. He was sent back to the rancho of Mr. Faxon. Distance 15 miles. 

_December 22_. --Clear and pleasant. Being of the party which performedrear-guard duty to-day, with orders to bring in all stragglers, we didnot leave camp until several hours after the main body had left. Thehorses of the _caballada_ and the pack-animals were continually givingout and refusing to proceed. Parties of men, exhausted, lay down uponthe ground, and it was with much urging, and sometimes with peremptorycommands only, that they could be prevailed upon to proceed. Thecountry bears the same marks of drought heretofore described, but freshvegetation is now springing up and appears vigorous. A largehorse-trail loading into one of the _canadas_ of the mountains on ourleft was discovered by the scouts, and a party was dispatched to traceit. We passed one deserted rancho, and reached camp between nine andten o'clock at night, having forced in all the men and most of thehorses and pack-mules. Distance 15 miles. 

_December 23_. --Rain fell steadily and heavily the entire day. A smallparty of men was in advance. Discovering in a brushy valley two Indiansarmed with bows and arrows, they were taken prisoners. Learning fromthem that there was a _caballada_ of horses secreted in one of the_canadas_, they continued on about ten miles, and found abouttwenty-five fresh fat horses, belonging to a Californian now among theinsurgents below. They were taken and delivered at the camp near theeastern base of the St. Ynes Mountain. Passed this morning a ranchoinhabited by a foreigner, an Englishman. 

_December 24_. --Cloudy and cool, with an occasional sprinkling rain. Our route to-day lay directly over the St. Ynes Mountain, by anelevated and most difficult pass. The height of this mountain isseveral thousand feet. We reached the summit about twelve o'clock, and, our company composing the advance-guard, we encamped about a mile and ahalf in advance of the main body of the battalion, at a point whichoverlooks the beautiful plain of Santa Barbara, of which, and the oceanbeyond, we had a most extended and interesting view. With thespy-glass, we could see, in the plain far below us, herds of cattlequietly grazing upon the green herbage that carpets its gentleundulations. The plain is dotted with groves, surrounding the springsand belting the small water-courses, of which there are many flowingfrom this range of mountains. Ranchos are scattered far up and down theplain, but not one human being could be seen stirring. About ten ortwelve miles to the south, the white towers of the mission of SantaBarbara raise themselves. Beyond is the illimitable waste of waters. Amore lovely and picturesque landscape I never beheld. On the summit ofthe mountain, and surrounding us, there is a growth of hawthorn, manzinita (in bloom), and other small shrubbery. The rock is softsandstone and conglomerate, immense masses of which, piled one uponanother, form a wall along the western brow of the mountain, throughwhich there is a single pass or gateway about eight or ten feet inwidth. The descent on the western side is precipitous, and appearsalmost impassable. Distance 4 miles. 

_December 25_. --Christmas-day, and a memorable one to me. Owing to thedifficulty in hauling the cannon up the steep acclivities of themountain, the main body of the battalion did not come up with us untiltwelve o'clock, and before we commenced the descent of the mountain afurious storm commenced, raging with a violence rarely surpassed. Therain fell in torrents, and the wind blew almost with the force of atornado. This fierce strife of the elements continued without abatementthe entire afternoon, and until two o'clock at night. Driving ourhorses before us, we were compelled to slide down the steep andslippery rocks, or wade through deep gullies and ravines filled withmud and foaming torrents of water, that rushed downwards with suchforce as to carry along the loose rocks and tear up the trees andshrubbery by the roots. Many of the horses falling into the ravinesrefused to make an effort to extricate themselves, and were sweptdownwards and drowned. Others, bewildered by the fierceness and terrorsof the storm, rushed or fell headlong over the steep precipices andwere killed. Others obstinately refused to proceed, but stood quakingwith fear or shivering with cold, and many of these perished in thenight from the severity of the storm. The advance party did not reachthe foot of the mountain and find a place to encamp until night--and anight of more impenetrable and terrific darkness I never witnessed. Theground upon which our camp was made, although sloping from the hills toa small stream, was so saturated with water that men as well as horsessunk deep at every step. The rain fell in such quantities, that fireswith great difficulty could be lighted, and most of them wereimmediately extinguished. 

The officers and men belonging to the company having the cannon incharge laboured until nine or ten o'clock to bring them down themountain, but they were finally compelled to leave them. Much of thebaggage also remained on the side of the mountain, with the pack-mulesand horses conveying them, all efforts to force the animals down beingfruitless. The men continued to straggle into the camp until a latehour of the night;--some crept under the shelving rocks and did notcome in until the next morning. We were so fortunate as to find ourtent, and after much difficulty pitched it under an oak-tree. Allefforts to light a fire and keep it blazing proving abortive, we spreadour blankets upon the ground and endeavoured to sleep, although wecould feel the cold streams of water running through the tent andbetween and around our bodies. 

In this condition we remained until about two o'clock in the morning, when the storm having abated I rose, and shaking from my garments thedripping water, after many unsuccessful efforts succeeded in kindling afire. Near our tent I found three soldiers who had reached camp at alate hour. They were fast asleep on the ground, the water around thembeing two or three inches deep; but they had taken care to keep theirheads above water, by using a log of wood for a pillow. The firebeginning to blaze freely, I dug a ditch with my hands and a sharpstick of wood, which drained off the pool surrounding the tent. One ofthe men, when he felt the sensation consequent upon being "high anddry, " roused himself, and, sitting upright, looked around for some timewith an expression of bewildered amazement. At length he seemed torealize the true state of the case, and exclaimed, in a tone ofenergetic soliloquy, --

"Well, who _wouldn't_ be a soldier and fight for California?"

"You are mistaken, " I replied. 

Rubbing his eyes, he gazed at me with astonishment, as if having beenentirely unconscious of my presence; but, reassuring himself, he said:

"How mistaken?"

"Why, " I answered, "you are not fighting for California. "

"What the d----l, then, am I fighting for?" he inquired. 

"For TEXAS. "

"Texas be d----d; but hurrah for General Jackson!" and with thisexclamation he threw himself back again upon his wooden pillow, and wassoon snoring in a profound slumber. 

Making a platform composed of sticks of wood upon the soft mud, Istripped myself to the skin, wringing the water from each garment as Iproceeded. I then commenced drying them by the fire in the order thatthey were replaced upon my body, an employment that occupied me untildaylight, which sign, above the high mountain to the east, down whichwe had rolled rather than marched yesterday, I was truly rejoiced tosee. Distance 3 miles. 

_December 26_. --Parties were detailed early this morning, anddespatched up the mountain to bring down the cannon, and collect theliving horses and baggage. The destruction of horse-flesh, by those whowitnessed the scene by daylight, is described as frightful. In someplaces large numbers of dead horses were piled together. In others, horses half buried in the mud of the ravines, or among the rocks, weregasping in the agonies of death. The number of dead animals isvariously estimated at from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty, bydifferent persons. The cannon, most of the missing baggage, and theliving horses, were all brought in by noon. The day was busily employedin cleansing our rifles and pistols, and drying our drenched baggage. 

_December 27_. --Preparations were commenced early for the resumption ofour march; but such was the condition of everything around us, that itwas two o'clock, P. M. , before the battalion was in readiness; and thenso great had been the loss of horses in various ways, that the numberremaining was insufficient to mount the men. One or two companies, andportions of others, were compelled to march on foot. We were visitedduring the forenoon by Mr. Sparks, an American, Dr. Den, an Irishman, and Mr. Burton, another American, residents of Santa Barbara. They hadbeen suffered by the Californians to remain in the place. Theirinformation communicated to us was, that the town was deserted ofnearly all its population. A few houses only were occupied. Passingdown a beautiful and fertile undulating plain, we encamped just beforesunset in a live-oak grove, about half a mile from the town of SantaBarbara. Strict orders were issued by Col. Fremont, that the propertyand the persons of Californians, not found in arms, should be sacredlyrespected. To prevent all collisions, no soldier was allowed to passthe lines of the camp without special permission, or orders from hisofficers. 

I visited the town before dark, but found the houses, with fewexceptions, closed, and the streets deserted. After hunting about sometime, we discovered a miserable dwelling, occupied by a shoemaker andhis family, open. Entering it, we were very kindly received by itsoccupants, who, with a princely supply of civility, possessed but abeggarly array of comforts. At our request they provided for us asupper of _tortillas, frijoles_, and stewed _carne_ seasoned with_chile colorado_, for which, paying them _dos pesos_ for four, we badethem good evening, all parties being well satisfied. The familyconsisted, exclusive of the shoemaker, of a dozen women and children, of all ages. The women, from the accounts they had received of theintentions of the Americans, were evidently unprepared for civiltreatment from them. They expected to be dealt with in a very barbarousmanner, _in all respects_; but they were disappointed, and invited usto visit them again. Distance 8 miles. 

CHAPTER XI. 

 Santa Barbara Picturesque situation Fertility of the country Climate Population Society Leave Santa Barbara Rincon Grampus Mission of St. Buenaventura Fine gardens Meet a party of mounted Californians They retreat before us Abundance of maize Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton Effects of war upon the country More of the enemy in sight News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton Mission of San Fernando The Maguey Capitulation of the Californians Arrive at Los Angeles General reflections upon the march Meet with old acquaintances. 

The battalion remained encamped at Santa Barbara, from the 27th ofDecember to the 3rd of January, 1847. The U. S. Flag was raised in thepublic square of the town the day after our arrival. 

The town of Santa Barbara is beautifully situated for the picturesque, about one mile from the shore of a roadstead, which affords anchoragefor vessels of any size, and a landing for boats in calm weather. During stormy weather, or the prevalence of strong winds from thesouth-east, vessels, for safety, are compelled to stand out to sea. Afertile plain extends some twenty or thirty miles up and down thecoast, varying in breadth from two to ten miles, and bounded on theeast by a range of high mountains. The population of the town I shouldjudge, from the number of houses, to be about 1200 souls. Most of thehouses are constructed of adobes, in the usual architectural style ofMexican buildings. Some of them, however, are more Americanized, andhave some pretensions to tasteful architecture, and comfortable andconvenient interior arrangement. Its commerce, I presume, is limited tothe export of hides and tallow produced upon the surrounding plain; andthe commodities received in exchange for these from the traders on thecoast. Doubtless, new and yet undeveloped sources of wealth will bediscovered hereafter that will render this town of much greaterimportance than it is at present. 

On the coast, a few miles above Santa Barbara, there are, I have beentold, immense quantities of pure bitumen or mineral tar, which, risingin the ocean, has been thrown upon the shore by the waves, where in aconcrete state, like resin, it has accumulated in inexhaustible masses. There are, doubtless, many valuable minerals in the neighbouringmountains, which, when developed by enterprise, will add greatly to thewealth and importance of the town. For intelligence, refinement, andcivilization, the population, it is said, will compare advantageouslywith any in California. Some old and influential Spanish families areresidents of this place; but their _casas_, with the exception of thatof Senor Don José Noriega, the largest house in the place, are nowclosed and deserted. Senor N. Is one of the oldest and most respectablecitizens of California, having filled the highest offices in thegovernment of the country. One of his daughters is a resident of NewYork, having married Alfred Robinson, Esq. , of that city, author of"Life in California. "

The climate, judging from the indications while we remained here, mustbe delightful, even in winter. With the exception of one day, which wastempestuous, the temperature at night did not fall below 50°, andduring the day the average was between 60° and 70°. The atmosphere wasperfectly clear and serene, the weather resembling that of the pleasantdays of April in the same latitude on the Atlantic side of thecontinent. It is a peculiarity of the Mexicans that they allow no shadeor ornamental trees to grow near their houses. In none of the streetsof the towns or missions through which I have passed has there been asolitary tree standing. I noticed very few horticultural attempts inSanta Barbara. At the mission, about two miles distant, which is anextensive establishment and in good preservation, I was told that therewere fine gardens, producing most of the varieties of fruits of thetropical and temperate climates. 

Several Californians came into camp and offered to deliver themselvesup. They were permitted to go at large. They represented that theCalifornian force at the south was daily growing weaker fromdissensions and desertions. The United States prize-schooner Juliaarrived on the 30th, from which was landed a cannon for the use of thebattalion. It has, however, to be mounted on wheels, and the gearnecessary for hauling it has to be made in the camp. Reports werecurrent in camp on the 31st, that the Californians intended to meet andfight us at San Buenaventura, about thirty miles distant. On the 1st ofJanuary, the Indians of the mission and town celebrated new-year's day, by a procession, music, etc. , etc. They marched from the mission to thetown, and through most of the empty and otherwise silent streets. Amongthe airs they played was "Yankee Doodle. "

_January 3_. --A beautiful spring-like day. We resumed our march at 11o'clock, and encamped in a live-oak grove about ten miles south ofSanta-Barbara. Our route has been generally near the shore of theocean. Timber is abundant, and the grass and other vegetationluxuriant. Distance 10 miles. 

_January 4_. --At the "Rincon, " or passage between two points of landjutting into the ocean, so narrow that at high tides the surf dashesagainst the neatly perpendicular bases of the mountains which bound theshore, it has been supposed the hostile Californians would make astand, the position being so advantageous to them. The road, if road itcan be called, where all marks of hoofs or wheels are erased by eachsucceeding tide, runs along a hard sand-beach, with occasionalprojections of small points of level ground, ten or fifteen miles, andthe surf, even when the tide has fallen considerably, frequentlyreaches to the bellies of the horses. Some demonstration has beenconfidently expected here, but we encamped in this pass the first daywithout meeting an enemy or seeing a sign of one. Our camp is close tothe ocean, and the roar of the surf, as it dashes against the shore, islike that of an immense cataract. Hundreds of the grampus whale aresporting a mile or two distant from the land, spouting up water andspray to a great height, in columns resembling steam from theescape-pipes of steam-boats. Distance 6 miles. 

_January 5_. --The prize-schooner Julia was lying off in sight thismorning, for the purpose of co-operating with us, should there be anyattempt on the part of the enemy to interrupt the march of thebattalion. We reached the mission of San Buenaventura, and encamped ashort distance from it at two o'clock. Soon after, a small party ofCalifornians exhibited themselves on an elevation just beyond themission. The battalion was immediately called to arms, and marched outto meet them. But, after the discharge of the two field-pieces, theyscampered away like a flock of antelopes, and the battalion returned tocamp, with none killed or wounded on either side. Under the belief thatthere was a larger force of Californians encamped at a distance of somefive or six miles, and that during the night they might attempt asurprise, or plant cannon on the summit of a hill about a mile fromcamp, so as to annoy us, a party, of which I was one, was detached, after dark, to occupy the hill secretly. We marched around the missionas privately as possible, and took our position on the hill, where weremained all night without the least disturbance, except by thetempestuous wind, which blew a blast so cold and piercing as almost tocongeal the blood. When the sun rose in the morning, I could see, farout in the ocean, three vessels scudding before the gale like phantomships. One of these was the little schooner that had been waiting uponus while marching along the "Rincon. " Distance 14 miles. 

_January 6_. --The wind has blown a gale in our faces all day, and theclouds of dust have been almost blinding. The mission of SanBuenaventura does not differ, in its general features, from those ofother establishments of the same kind heretofore described. There is alarge garden, inclosed by a high wall, attached to the mission, inwhich I noticed a great variety of fruit-trees and ornamentalshrubbery. There are also numerous inclosures, for cultivation, bywillow hedges. The soil, when properly tilled, appears to be highlyproductive. This mission is situated about two miles from the shore ofa small bay or indentation of the coast, on the edge of a plain orvalley watered by the Rio Santa Clara, which empties into the Pacificat this point. A chain of small islands, from ten to twenty miles fromthe shore, commences at Santa Barbara, and extends south along thecoast, to the bay of San Pedro. These islands present to the eye abarren appearance. At present the only inhabitants of the mission are afew Indians, the white population having abandoned it on our approach, with the exception of one man, who met us yesterday and surrenderedhimself a prisoner. 

Proceeding up the valley about seven miles from the mission, wediscovered at a distance a party of sixty or seventy mountedCalifornians, drawn up in order on the bank of the river. This, it wasconjectured, might be only a portion of a much larger force stationedhere, and concealed in a deep ravine which runs across the valley, orin the _canadas_ of the hills on our left. Scouting-parties mounted thehills, for the purpose of ascertaining if such was the case. In themean time, the party of Californians on our right scattered themselvesover the plain, prancing their horses, waving their swords, banners, and lances, and performing a great variety of equestrian feats. Theywere mounted on fine horses, and there are no better horsemen, if asgood, in the world, than Californians. They took especial care, however, to keep beyond the reach of cannon-shot. The battalion wheeledto the left for the purpose of crossing a point of hills jutting intothe plain, and taking the supposed concealed party of the enemy ontheir flank. It was, however, found impracticable to cross the hillswith the cannon; and, returning to the plain, the march was continued, the Californians still prancing and performing their antics in ourfaces. Our horses were so poor and feeble that it was impossible tochase them with any hope of success. As we proceeded, they retreated. Some of the Indian scouts, among whom were a Delaware named Tom, whodistinguished himself in the engagement near San Juan, and aCalifornian Indian named Gregorio, rode towards them; and two or threeguns were discharged on both sides, but without any damage, the partiesnot being within dangerous gun-shot distance of each other. TheCalifornians then formed themselves in a body, and soon disappearedbehind some hills on our right. We encamped about four o'clock in thevalley, the wind blowing almost a hurricane, and the dust flying so asnearly to blind us. Distance 9 miles. 

_January 7_. --Continuing our march up the valley, we encamped near therancho of Carrillo, where we found an abundance of corn, wheat, andfrijoles. The house was shut up, having been deserted by itsproprietor, who is said to be connected with the rebellion. Californianscouts were seen occasionally to-day on the summits of the hills southof us. Distance 7 miles. 

_January 8_. --Another tempestuous day. I do not remember ever to haveexperienced such disagreeable effects from the wind and the clouds ofdust in which we were constantly enveloped, driving into our faceswithout intermission. We encamped this afternoon in a grove of willowsnear a rancho, where, as yesterday, we found corn and beans inabundance. Our horses, consequently, fare well, and we fare better thanwe have done. One-fourth of the battalion, exclusive of the regularguard, is kept under arms during the night, to be prepared againstsurprises and night-attacks. Distance 12 miles. 

_January 9_. --Early this morning Captain Hamley, accompanied by aCalifornian as a guide, came into camp, with despatches from CommodoreStockton. The exact purport of these despatches I never learned, but itwas understood that the commodore, in conjunction with General Kearny, was marching upon Los Angeles, and that, if they had not alreadyreached and taken that town (the present capital of California), theywere by this time in its neighbourhood. Captain Hamley passed, lastnight, the encampment of a party of Californians in our rear. He landedfrom a vessel at Santa Barbara, and from thence followed us to thisplace by land. We encamped this afternoon at a rancho, situated on theedge of a fertile and finely watered plain of considerable extent, where we found corn, wheat, and frijoles in great abundance. The ranchowas owned and occupied by an aged Californian, of commanding andrespectable appearance; I could not but feel compassion for thevenerable old man, whose sons were now all absent and engaged in thewar, while he, at home and unsupported, was suffering the unavoidableinconveniences and calamities resulting from an army being quarteredupon him. 

As we march south there appears to be a larger supply of wheat, maize, beans, and barley in the granaries of the ranchos. More attention isevidently given to the cultivation of the soil here than farther north, although neither the soil nor climate is so well adapted to the raisingof crops. The Californian spies have shown themselves at various timesto-day, on the summits of the hills on our right. Distance 12 miles. 

_January 10_. --Crossing the plain, we encamped, about two o'clock P. M. , in the mouth of a _canada_, through which we ascend over a difficultpass in a range of elevated hills between us and the plain of SanFernando, or Couenga. Some forty or fifty mounted Californiansexhibited themselves on the summit of the pass during the afternoon. They were doubtless a portion of the same party that we met severaldays ago, just below San Buenaventura. A large number of cattle werecollected in the plain and corralled, to be driven along to-morrow forsubsistence. Distance 10 miles. 

_January 11_. --The battalion this morning was divided into two parties;the main body, on foot, marching over a ridge of hills to the right ofthe road or trail; and the artillery, horses and baggage, with anadvance-guard and escort, marching by the direct route. We found thepass narrow, and easily to be defended by brave and determined menagainst a greatly superior force; but when we had mounted the summit ofthe ridge there was no enemy, nor the sign of one, in sight. Descendinginto a _canada_ on the other side, we halted until the main body cameup to us, and then the whole force was again reunited, and the marchcontinued. 

Emerging from the hills, the advance party to which I was attached mettwo Californians, bareheaded, riding in great haste. They stated thatthey were from the mission of San Fernando; that the Californian forceshad met the American forces under the command of General Kearny andCommodore Stockton, and had been defeated after two days' fighting; andthat the Americans had yesterday marched into Los Angeles. Theyrequested to be conducted immediately to Colonel Fremont, which requestwas complied with. A little farther on we met a Frenchman, who statedthat he was the bearer of a letter from General Kearny, at Los Angeles, to Colonel Fremont. He confirmed the statement we had just heard, andwas permitted to pass. Continuing our march, we entered the mission ofSan Fernando at one o'clock, and in about two hours the main bodyarrived, and the whole battalion encamped in the mission buildings. 

The buildings and gardens belonging to this mission are in bettercondition than those of any of these establishments I have seen. Thereare two extensive gardens, surrounded by high walls; and a strollthrough them afforded a most delightful contrast from the usuallyuncultivated landscape we have been travelling through for so long atime. Here were brought together most of the fruits and many of theplants of the temperate and tropical climates. Although not the seasonof flowers, still the roses were in bloom. Oranges, lemons, figs, andolives hung upon the trees, and the blood-red _tuna_, or prickly-pear, looked very tempting. Among the plants I noticed the American aloe(_argave Americana_), which is otherwise called _maguey_. From thisplant, when it attains maturity, a saccharine liquor is extracted, which is manufactured into a beverage called _pulque_, and is muchprized by Mexicans. The season of grapes has passed, but there areextensive vineyards at this mission. I drank, soon after my arrival, aglass of red wine manufactured here, of a good quality. 

The mission of San Fernando is situated at the head of an extensive andvery fertile plain, judging from the luxuriance of the grass and othervegetation now springing up. I noticed in the granary from which ourhorses were supplied with food many thousand bushels of corn. The earis smaller than that of the corn of the Southern States. It resemblesthe maize cultivated in the Northern States, the kernel being hard andpolished. Large herds of cattle and sheep were grazing upon the plainin sight of the mission. 

_January 12_. --This morning two Californian officers, accompanied byTortaria Pico, who marched with us from San Luis Obispo, came to themission to treat for peace. A consultation was held and terms weresuggested, and, as I understand, partly agreed upon, but not concluded. The officers left in the afternoon. 

_January 13_. --We continued our march, and encamped near a desertedrancho at the foot of Couenga plain. Soon after we halted, theCalifornian peace-commissioners appeared, and the terms of peace andcapitulation were finally agreed upon and signed by the respectiveparties. They were as follows:--

 ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION, Made and entered into at the Ranch of Couenga, this thirteenth day of January, eighteen hundred and forty-seven, between P. B. Reading, major; Louis McLane, junr. , commanding 3rd Artillery; William H. Russell, ordnance officer--commissioners appointed by J. C. Fremont, Colonel United States Army, and Military Commandant of California; and José Antonio Carillo, commandant esquadron; Augustin Olivera, deputado--commissioners appointed by Don Andres Pico, Commander-in-chief of the Californian forces under the Mexican flag. 

 Article 1st. The Commissioners on the part of the Californians agree that their entire force shall, on presentation of themselves to Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont, deliver up their artillery and public arms, and that they shall return peaceably to their homes, conforming to the laws and regulations of the United States, and not again take up arms during the war between the United States and Mexico, but will assist and aid in placing the country in a state of peace and tranquillity. 

 Art. 2nd. The Commissioners on the part of Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont agree and bind themselves, on the fulfilment of the 1st Article by the Californians, that they shall be guaranteed protection of life and property, whether on parole or otherwise. 

 Article 3rd. That until a Treaty of Peace be made and signed between the United States of North America and the Republic of Mexico, no Californian or other Mexican citizen shall be bound to take the oath of allegiance. 

 Article 4th. That any Californian or citizen of Mexico, desiring, is permitted by this capitulation to leave the country without let or hinderance. 

 Article 5th. That, in virtue of the aforesaid articles, equal rights and privileges are vouchsafed to every citizen of California, as are enjoyed by the citizens of the United States of North America. 

 Article 6th. All officers, citizens, foreigners or others, shall receive the protection guaranteed by the 2nd Article. 

 Article 7th. This capitulation is intended to be no bar in effecting such arrangements as may in future be in justice required by both parties. 

 ADDITIONAL ARTICLE. 

 Ciudad de Los Angeles, Jan. 16th, 1847. 

 That the paroles of all officers, citizens and others, of the United States, and naturalized citizens of Mexico, are by this foregoing capitulation cancelled, and every condition of said paroles, from and after this date, are of no further force and effect, and all prisoners of both parties are hereby released. 

 P. B. READING, Maj. Cal'a. Battalion. LOUIS McLANE, Com'd. Artillery. WM. H. RUSSELL, Ordnance Officer. JOSE ANTONIO CARILLO, Comd't. Of Squadron. AUGUSTIN OLIVERA, Deputado. 

 Approved, J. C. FREMONT, Lieut. -Col. U. S. Army, and Military Commandant of California. 

 ANDRES PICO, Commandant of Squadron and Chief of the National Forces of California. 

The next morning a brass howitzer was brought into camp, and delivered. What other arms were given up I cannot say, for I saw none. Nor can Ispeak as to the number of Californians who were in the field under thecommand of Andres Pico when the articles of capitulation were signed, for they were never in sight of us after we reached San Fernando. Distance 12 miles. 

_January 14_. --It commenced raining heavily this morning. Crossing aridge of hills, we entered the magnificent undulating plain surroundingthe city of Angels, now verdant with a carpet of fresh vegetation. Among other plants I noticed the mustard, and an immense quantity ofthe common pepper-grass of our gardens. We passed several warm springswhich throw up large quantities of bitumen or mineral tar. Urging ourjaded animals through the mud and water, which in places was very deep, we reached the town about 3 o'clock. 

A more miserably clad, wretchedly provided, and unprepossessingmilitary host, probably never entered a civilized city. In all, exceptour order, deportment, and arms, we might have been mistaken for aprocession of tatterdemalions, or a tribe of Nomades from Tartary. There were not many of us so fortunate as to have in our possession anentire outside garment; and several were without hats or shoes, or acomplete covering to their bodies. But that we had at last reached theterminus of a long and laborious march, attended with hardships, exposure, and privation rarely suffered, was a matter of such heartfeltcongratulation, that these comparatively trifling inconveniences werenot thought of. Men never, probably, in the entire history of militarytransactions, bore these privations with more fortitude or utteredfewer complaints. 

We had now arrived at the abode of the _celestials_, if theinterpretation of the name of the place could be considered asindicative of the character of its population, and drenched with rainand plastered with mud, we entered the "City of the Angels, " andmarched through its principal street to our temporary quarters. Wefound the town, as we expected, in the possession of the United Statesnaval and military forces under the command of Commodore Stockton andGeneral Kearny, who, after two engagements with six hundred mountedCalifornians on the 8th and 9th, had marched into the city on the 10th. The town was almost entirely deserted by its inhabitants, and most ofthe houses, except those belonging to foreigners, or occupied asquarters for the troops, were closed. I met here many of the navalofficers whose agreeable acquaintance I had made at San Francisco. Among others were Lieutenants Thompson, Hunter, Gray and Rhenshaw, andCaptain Zeilin of the marines, all of whom had marched from San Diego. Distance 12 miles. 

CHAPTER XII. 

 City of Angels Gardens Vineyards Produce of the vine in California General products of the country Reputed personal charms of the females of Los Angeles San Diego Gold and quicksilver mines Lower California Bituminous springs Wines A Kentuckian among the angels Missions of San Gabriel and San Luis Rey Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton leave for San Diego Col. Fremont appointed Governor of California by Com. Stockton Com. Shubrick's arrival Insurrection in the northern part of California suppressed Arrival of Col. Cooke at San Diego. 

La Ciudad de los Angeles is the largest town in California, containingbetween fifteen hundred and two thousand inhabitants. Its streets arelaid out without any regard to regularity. The buildings are generallyconstructed of adobes one and two stories high, with flat roofs. Thepublic buildings are a church, quartel, and government house. Some ofthe dwelling-houses are frames, and large. Few of them, interiorly orexteriorly, have any pretensions to architectural taste, finish, orconvenience of plan and arrangement. The town is situated about 20 milesfrom the ocean, in a extensive undulating plain, bounded on the northby a ridge of elevated hills, on the east by high mountains whosesummits are now covered with snow, on the west by the ocean, andstretching to the south and the south-east as far as the eye can reach. The Rio St. Gabriel flows near the town. This stream is skirted withnumerous vineyards and gardens, inclosed by willow-hedges. The gardensproduce a great variety of tropical fruits and plants. The yield of thevineyards is very abundant; and a large quantity of wines of a goodquality and flavour, and _aguardiénte_, are manufactured here. Some ofthe vineyards, I understand, contain as many as twenty thousand vines. The produce of the vine in California will, undoubtedly, in a shorttime form an important item, in its exports and commerce. The soil andclimate, especially of the southern portion of the country, appear tobe peculiarly adapted to the culture of the grape. 

We found in Los Angeles an abundance of maize, wheat, and _frijoles_, showing that the surrounding country is highly productive of theseimportant articles of subsistence. There are no mills, however, in thisvicinity, the universal practice of Californian families being to grindtheir corn by hand; and consequently flour and bread are very scarce, and not to be obtained in any considerable quantities. The only gardenvegetables which I saw while here were onions, potatoes, and _chilecolorado_, or red pepper, which enters very largely into the _cuisine_of the country. I do not doubt, however, that every description ofgarden vegetables can be produced here, in perfection and abundance. 

While I remained at Los Angeles, I boarded with two or three otherofficers at the house of a Mexican Californian, the late alcalde of thetown, whose political functions had ceased. He was a thin, delicate, amiable, and very polite gentleman, treating us with much courtesy, forwhich we paid him, when his bill was presented, a very liberalcompensation. In the morning we were served, on a common deal table, with a cup of coffee and a plate of _tortillas_. At eleven o'clock, amore substantial meal was provided, consisting of stewed beef, seasonedwith _chile colorado_, a rib of roasted beef, and a plate of _frijoles_with _tortillas_, and a bottle of native wine. Our supper was a secondedition of the eleven o'clock entertainment. 

The town being abandoned by most of its population, and especially bythe better class of the female portion of it, those who remained, whichI saw, could not, without injustice, be considered as fair specimens of_the angels_, which are reputed here to inhabit. I did not happen tosee one beautiful or even comely-looking woman in the place; but, asthe fair descendants of Eve at Los Angeles have an exalted reputationfor personal charms, doubtless the reason of the invisibility of theexamples of feminine attractions, so far-famed and so much looked forby the sojourner, is to be ascribed to their "unavoidable absence, " onaccount of the dangers and casualties of war. At this time, of course, everything in regard to society, as it usually exists here, is in astate of confusion and disorganization, and no correct conclusions inreference to it can be drawn from observation under such circumstances. 

The bay of San Pedro, about twenty-five miles south of Los Angeles, isthe port of the town. The bay affords a good anchorage for vessels ofany size; but it is not a safe harbour at all times, as I have beeninformed by experienced nautical men on this coast. San Gabriel Riverempties into the bay. The mission of San Gabriel is about twelve mileseast of Los Angeles. It is represented as an extensive establishment ofthis kind, the lands surrounding and belonging to it being highlyfertile. The mission of San Luis Rey is situated to the south, aboutmidway between Los Angeles and San Diego. This mission, according tothe descriptions which I have received of it, is more substantial andtasteful in its construction than any other in the country; and thegardens and grounds belonging to it are now in a high state ofcultivation. 

San Diego is the most southern town in Upper California. It is situatedon the Bay of San Diego, in latitude 33° north. The country back of itis described by those who have travelled through it as sandy and arid, and incapable of supporting any considerable population. There are, however, it is reported on authority regarded as reliable, rich minesof quicksilver, copper, gold, and coal, in the neighbourhood, which, ifsuch be the fact, will before long render the place one of considerableimportance. The harbour, next to that of San Francisco, is the best onthe Pacific coast of North America, between the Straits of Fuca andAcapulco. 

For the following interesting account of Lower California I am indebtedto Rodman M. Price, Esq. , purser of the U. S. Sloop-of-war Cyane, whohas been connected with most of the important events which haverecently taken place in Upper and Lower California, and whoseobservations and opinions are valuable and reliable. It will be seenthat the observations of Mr. Price differ materially from the generallyreceived opinions in reference to Lower California. 

"Burlington, N. J. , June 7, 1848. 

"Dear Sir, --It affords me pleasure to give you all the information Ihave about Lower California, derived from personal observation atseveral of its ports that I have visited, in the U. S. Ship Cyane, in1846-47. 

"Cape St. Lucas, the southern extremity of the peninsula of LowerCalifornia, is in lat. 22° 45' N. , has a bay that affords a goodharbour and anchorage, perfectly safe nine months in the year; but itis open to the eastward, and the hurricanes which sometimes occurduring July, August, and September, blow the strongest from thesoutheast, so that vessels will not venture in the bay during thehurricane season. I have landed twice at the Cape in a small boat, andI think a breakwater can be built, at small cost, so as to make a safeharbour at all seasons. Stone can be obtained with great ease fromthree cones of rocks rising from the sea, and forming the extremesoutherly point of the Cape, called the Frayles. Looking to the futuretrade and commerce of the Pacific Ocean, this great headland mustbecome a most important point as a dépôt for coal and merchandise, anda most convenient location for vessels trading on that coast to gettheir supplies. Mr. Ritchie, now residing there, supplies a largenumber of whale-ships that cruise off the Cape, annually, with freshprovisions, fruits, and water. The supplies are drawn from the valleyof San José twenty miles north of the Cape, as the land in itsimmediate vicinity is mountainous and sterile; but the valley of SanJosé is extensive and well cultivated, producing the greatest varietyof vegetables and fruits. The sweet and Irish potato, tomato, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas, beets, and carrots are the vegetables; oranges, lemons, bananas, plantains, figs, dates, grapes, pomegranates, andolives are its fruits. Good beef and mutton are cheap. A large amountof sugar-cane is grown, from which is made _panoche_, a favourite sugarwith the natives; it is the syrup from the cane boiled down, and runinto cakes of a pound weight, and in appearance is like ourmaple-sugar. 

"_Panoche_, cheese, olives, raisins, dried figs, and dates, put up in_ceroons_ of hide, with the great staples of the Californians--hidesand tallow--make the export of San José, which is carried to San Blasand Mazatlan, on the opposite coast. This commerce the presence of theCyane interrupted, finding and capturing in the Bay of La Paz, justafter the receipt of the news of war on that coast in September, 1846, sixteen small craft, laid up during the stormy season, engaged in thistrade. 

"I cannot dismiss the valley of San José, from which the crew of theCyane have drawn so many luxuries, without alluding to thenever-failing stream of excellent water that runs through it (to whichit owes its productiveness) and empties into the Gulf here, and iseasily obtained for shipping when the surf is low. It is now frequentedby some of our whale ships, and European vessels bound to Mazatlan withcargoes usually stop here to get instructions from their consigneesbefore appearing off the port; but vessels do not anchor during thethree hurricane months. The view from seaward, up this valley, isbeautiful indeed, being surrounded by high barren mountains, which isthe general appearance of the whole peninsula, and gives the impressionthat the whole country is without soil, and unproductive. When your eyegets a view of this beautiful, fertile, cultivated, rich, green valley, producing all the fruits and vegetables of the earth, Lower Californiastock rises. To one that has been at sea for months, on salt grub, thesight of this bright spot of cultivated acres, with the turkeys, ducks, chickens, eggs, vegetables, and fruit, makes him believe the country an_Eldorado_. Following up the coast on the Gulf side, after passing CapePolmo, good anchorage is found between the peninsula and the island ofCerralbo. Immediately to the north of this island is the entrance tothe great and beautiful bay of La Paz. It has two entrances, one to thenorth and one to the south of the island of Espiritu Santo. Thenorthern one is the boldest and safest for all craft drawing overtwelve feet. The town of La Paz is at the bottom or south side of thebay, about twenty miles from the mouth. The bay is a large andbeautiful sheet of water. The harbour of Pichelinque, of perfectmill-pond stillness, is formed inside of this bay. The Cyane lay atthis quiet anchorage several days. 

"Pearl-fishing is the chief employment of the inhabitants about thebay, and the pearls are said to be of superior quality. I was shown anecklace, valued at two thousand dollars, taken in this water. They areall found by diving. The _Yake_ Indians are the best divers, going downin eight-fathom water. The pearl shells are sent to China, and areworth, at La Paz, one dollar and a half the _arroba_, or twenty-fivepounds. Why it is a submarine diving apparatus has not been employed inthis fishery, with all its advantages over Indian diving, I cannot say. Yankee enterprise has not yet reached this new world. I cannot say thiseither, as a countryman of ours, Mr. Davis, living at Loretta, has beena most successful pearl-fisher, employing more Indians than any oneelse engaged in the business. I am sorry to add that he has sufferedgreatly by the war. The country about La Paz is a good grazing country, but very dry. The mountains in the vicinity are said to be very rich inminerals. Some silver mines near San Antonio, about forty miles south, are worked, and produce well. La Paz may export one hundred thousanddollars a-year of _platapina_. Gold-dust and virgin gold are brought toLa Paz. The copper and lead mines are numerous and rich. To the northof La Paz are numerous safe and good harbours. Escondida, Loretta, andMuleje are all good harbours, formed by the islands in front of themain land. 

"The island of Carmen, lying in front of Loretta, has a large saltlake, which has a solid salt surface of several feet thickness. Thesalt is of good quality, is cut out like ice, and it could supply theworld. It has heretofore been a monopoly to the governor of LowerCalifornia, who employed convicts to get out the salt and put it on thebeach ready for shipping. It is carried about a quarter of a mile, andis sent to Mazatlan and San Blas. A large quantity of salt is used inproducing silver. To the north of Muleje, which is nearly oppositeGuymas, the gulf is so much narrower that it is a harbour itself. Noaccurate survey has ever been made of it--indeed, all the peninsula, aswell as the coast of Upper California, is laid down wrong on thecharts, being about twelve miles too far easterly. The EnglishGovernment now have two naval ships engaged in surveying the Gulf ofCalifornia. 

"On the Pacific coast of the peninsula there is the great Bay ofMagdalena, which has fine harbours, but no water, provisions, orinhabitants. Its shores are high barren mountains, said to possessgreat mineral wealth. A fleet of whale-ships have been there during thewinter months of the last two years, for a new species of whale thatare found there, represented as rather a small whale, producing fortyor fifty barrels of oil; and, what is most singular, I was assured, bymost respectable whaling captains, that the oil is a good paint-oil (anentire new quality for fish-oil). Geographically and commercially, Lower California must become very valuable. It will be a constantsource of regret to this country, that it is not included in the treatyof peace just made with Mexico. We have held and governed it during thewar, and the boundary of Upper California cuts the head of the Gulf ofCalifornia, so that Lower California is left entirely disconnected withthe Mexican territory. 

"Cape St. Lucas is the great headland of the Pacific Ocean, and isdestined to be the Gibraltar and entrepot of that coast, or perhaps LaPaz may be preferred, on account of its superior harbour. As apossession to any foreign power, I think Lower California more valuablethan the group of the Sandwich Islands. It has as many arable acres asthat group of islands, with rich mines, pearl-fishing, fine bays andharbours, with equal health, and all their productions. As a country, it is dry, mountainous, and sterile, yet possessing many fine valleyslike San José, as the old mission establishments indicate. I have heardTodas Santos, Commondee, Santa Guadalupe, and others, spoken of asbeing more extensive, and as productive as San José. 

"I am, most faithfully and truly, yours, "RODMAN M. PRICE. "

In the vicinity of Los Angeles there are a number of warm springs whichthrow out and deposit large quantities of bitumen or mineral tar. Thissubstance, when it cools, becomes hard and brittle like resin. Aroundsome of these springs many acres of ground are covered with thisdeposit to the depth of several feet. It is a principal material in theroofing of houses. When thrown upon the fire, it ignites immediately, emitting a smoke like that from turpentine, and an odour like that frombituminous coal. This mineral, so abundant in California, may one daybecome a valuable article of commerce. 

There are no reliable statistics in California. The traveller isobliged to form his estimate of matters and things chiefly from his ownobservation. You can place but little reliance upon information derivedfrom the population, even when they choose to answer your questions;and most generally the response to your inquiries is--"_Quien sabe?_"(who knows?) No Californian troubles his brains about these matters. The quantity of wines and _aguardiénte_ produced by the vineyards anddistilleries, at and near Los Angeles, must be considerable--basing myestimate upon the statement of Mr. Wolfskill, an American gentlemanresiding here, and whose house and vineyard I visited. Mr. W. 'svineyard is young, and covers about forty acres of ground, the numberof vines being 4, 000 or 5, 000. From the produce of these, he told me, that last year he made 180 casks of wine, and the same quantity of_aguardiénte_. A cask here is sixteen gallons. When the vines mature, their produce will be greatly increased. Mr. W. 's vineyard is doubtlessa model of its kind. It was a delightful recreation to stroll throughit, and among the tropical fruit-trees bordering its walks. His house, too, exhibited an air of cleanliness and comfort, and a convenience ofarrangement not often met with in this country. He set out for ourrefreshment three or four specimens of his wines, some of which wouldcompare favourably with the best French and Madeira wines. The_aguardiénte_ and peach-brandy, which I tasted, of his manufacture, being mellowed by age, were of an excellent flavour. The quantity ofwine and _aguardiénte_ produced in California, I would suppose, amounted to 100, 000 casks of sixteen gallons, or 1, 600, 000 gallons. This quantity by culture can be increased indefinitely. 

It was not possible to obtain at Los Angeles a piece of woollen clothsufficiently large for a pair of pantaloons, or a pair of shoes, whichwould last a week. I succeeded, after searching through all the shopsof the town, in procuring some black cotton velvet, for four yards ofwhich I paid the sum of 12 dollars. In the United States the samearticle would probably have cost 1. 50 dollar. For four dollars more Isucceeded in getting the pantaloons made up by an American tailor, whocame into the country with General Kearny's forces. A Rocky Mountaintrapper and trader (Mr. Goodyear), who has established himself near theSalt Lake since I passed there last year, fortunately arrived at LosAngeles, bringing with him a quantity of dressed deer and elk skins, which were purchased for clothing for the nearly naked soldiers. 

Among the houses I visited while here, was that of Mr. Pryor, anAmerican, and a native of Louisville, Ky. He has been a resident of thecountry between twenty and thirty years, but his Kentucky manners, frankness, and hospitality still adhere to him. 

I remained at Los Angeles from the 14th to the 29th of January. Duringthis time, with the exception of three days, the weather andtemperature were pleasant. It rained one day, and during two days thewinds blew strong and cold from the north-west. The nights are cool, but fires are not requisite to comfort. The snow-clad mountains, abouttwenty-five or thirty miles to the east of us, contrast singularly withthe brilliant fresh verdure of the plain. 

On the 18th of January General Kearny, with the dragoons, left for SanDiego. There was understood to be a difference between General Kearnyand Commodore Stockton, and General Kearny and Colonel Fremont, inregard to their respective powers and duties; which, as the wholesubject has subsequently undergone a thorough investigation, and theresult made public, it is unnecessary for me to allude to moreparticularly. I did not converse with General Kearny while he was atLos Angeles, and consequently possessed no other knowledge of his viewsand intentions, or of the powers with which he had been invested by thePresident, than what I derived from report. 

On the 19th, Commodore Stockton and suite, with a small escort, leftfor San Diego. Soon after his departure the battalion was paraded, andthe appointment of Colonel Fremont as governor of California, andColonel W. H. Russell, as secretary of state, by Commodore Stockton, wasread to them by Colonel Russell. It was announced, also, that, althoughColonel Fremont had accepted the office of chief civil magistrate ofCalifornia, he would still retain his military office, and command thebattalion as heretofore. 

Commodore Shubrick, however, arrived at Monterey on the 23rd ofJanuary, in the U. S. Ship Independence, and, ranking above CommodoreStockton, assumed the chief command, as appears by the date of ageneral order published at Monterey, and written on board the UnitedStates ship Independence, on February 1st, thanking the volunteers fortheir services, and announcing the restoration of order. For I shouldstate that an insurrection, headed by Don Francisco Sanchez, had brokenout in the upper portion of California some time towards the last ofDecember, which had been put down by a detachment of marines andvolunteers. The insurgents had committed some outrages, and among otheracts had taken prisoner Lieutenant W. A. Bartlett, acting Alcalde of SanFrancisco, with some other Americans. An account of the suppression ofthis affair I find in the "Californian" newspaper of February 6th, 1847, from which it appears, "that a party of one hundred and one men, commanded by Captain Ward Marston, of the United States marines, marched from San Francisco on the 29th December in search of the enemy, whom they discovered on the 2nd of January, about one hundred innumber, on the plains of Santa Clara, under the command of FranciscoSanchez. An attack was immediately ordered. The enemy was forced toretire, which they were able to do in safety, after some resistance, inconsequence of their superior horses. The affair lasted about an hour, during which time we had one marine slightly wounded in the head, onevolunteer of Captain Weber's command in the leg; and the enemy had onehorse killed, and some of their forces supposed to be killed orwounded. In the evening the enemy sent in a flag of truce, with acommunication, requesting an interview with the commanding officer ofthe expedition the next day, which was granted, when an armistice wasentered into, preparatory to a settlement of the difficulties. On the3rd, the expedition was reinforced by the mounted Monterey volunteers, fifty-five men, under the command of Captain W. A. T. Maddox, and on the7th, by the arrival of Lieutenant Grayson with fifteen men, attached toCaptain Maddox's company. On the 8th a treaty was concluded, by whichthe enemy surrendered Lieutenant Bartlett, and the other prisoners, aswell as all their arms, including one small field-piece, theirammunition and accoutrements, and were permitted to return peaceably totheir homes, and the expedition to their respective posts. "

A list of the expedition which marched from San Francisco is given asfollows:--Captain Ward Marston, commandant; Assistant-surgeon J. Duval, aide-de-camp. A detachment of United States marines, under command ofLieutenant Tansil, thirty-four men; artillery, consisting of onefield-piece, under the charge of Master William F. De Iongh, assistedby Mid. John M. Kell, ten men; Interpreter John Pray; mounted companyof San José volunteers, under command of Captain C. M. Weber, LieutenantJohn Murphy, and acting Lieutenant John Reed, thirty-three men; mountedcompany of Yerba Buena volunteers, under command of Captain William M. Smith, Lieutenant John Rose, with a small detachment under Captain J. Martin, twelve men. 

Thus ended the insurrections, if resistance against invasion canproperly be so called, in Upper California. 

On the 20th January, the force of sailors and marines which had marchedwith Commodore Stockton and General Kearny left Los Angeles, to embarkat San Pedro for San Diego. On the 21st a national salute was fired bythe artillery company belonging to the battalion, in honour of GovernorFremont. On the 22nd, letters were received from San Diego, statingthat Colonel Cooke, who followed General Kearny from Santa Fé with aforce of four hundred Mormon volunteers, had reached the neighbourhoodof that place. Having applied for my discharge from the battalion assoon as we reached Los Angeles, I received it on the 29th, on whichday, in company with Captain Hastings, I set out on my return to SanFrancisco, designing to leave that place on the first favourableopportunity for the United States. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

 Leave Los Angeles for San Francisco Don Andres Pico A Californian returning from the wars Domestic life at a rancho Women in favour of peace Hospitable treatment Fandango Singular custom Arrive at Santa Barbara Lost in a fog Valley of the Salinas Californians wanting Yankee wives High waters Arrive at San Francisco. 

We left Los Angeles late in the afternoon of the 29th of January, withtwo Indian vaqueros, on miserable broken-down horses (the best we couldobtain), and encamped at the deserted rancho at the foot of Couengaplain, where the treaty of peace had been concluded. After we had beenhere some time, two Indians came to the house, who had been sent by theproprietor of the rancho to herd the cattle. Having nothing to eat withus, a tempting offer prevailed upon the Indians to milk one of thecows; and we made our supper and our breakfast next morning on milk. Both of our Indian vaqueros deserted in the night, carrying with themsundry articles of clothing placed in their charge. A few days havemade a great change in the appearance of the country. The fresh grassis now several inches in height, and many flowers are in bloom. The skyis bright, and the temperature is delightful. 

On the 30th of January, leaving the mission of San Fernando on ourright, at a distance of eight or ten miles, we followed the usuallytravelled trail next to the hills, on the western side of the plain. Aswe were passing near a rancho, a well-dressed Californian rode out tous, and, after examining the horses of our miserable _caballada_, politely claimed one of them as his property. He was told that thehorse was drawn from the public _caballada_, at Los Angeles, and couldnot be given up. This seemed to satisfy him. After some furtherconversation, he informed us, that he was Don Andres Pico, the lateleader and general of the Californians. The expression of hiscountenance is intelligent and prepossessing, and his address andmanners courteous and pleasing. Shaking hands, and bidding us a veryearnest _adios_, he put spurs to his horse and galloped away. 

We were soon after overtaken by a young Californian, who appeared atfirst rather doubtful whether or not he should make our acquaintance. The ice being broken, however, he became very loquacious andcommunicative. He stated that he was returning to his home near SantaBarbara, from the wars, in which he had been engaged against his will. The language that he used was, that he, with many others of hisacquaintances, were forced to take up arms by the leading men of thecountry. He was in the two battles of the 8th and 9th of January, belowLos Angeles; and he desired never to be in any more battles. He washeartily rejoiced that there was peace, and hoped that there wouldnever be any more wars. He travelled along with us until afternoon, when he fell behind, and we did not see him again until the next day. 

After passing two or three deserted houses, we reached an inhabitedrancho, situated at the extremity of a valley, and near a narrow gorgein the hills, about four o'clock, and, our jaded animals performingduty with reluctance, we determined to halt for the night, if theprospect of obtaining anything to eat (of which we stood in much need)was flattering. Riding up to the house, a small adobe, with one room, and a shed for a kitchen, the _ranchero_ and the _ranchera_ came outand greeted us with a hearty "_Buenas tardes, Senores, paisanosamigos_, " shaking hands, and inviting us at the same time to alight andremain for the night, which invitation we accepted. The kind-hearted_ranchera_ immediately set about preparing supper for us. An Indian_muchacha_ was seated at the _metate_ (hand-mill), which is one of themost important articles of the Californian culinary apparatus. Whilethe _muchacha_ ground, or rather crushed, the wheat between the stones, the _ranchera_, with a platter-shaped basket, cleansed it of dust, chaff, and all impure particles, by tossing the grain in the basket. The flour being manufactured and sifted through a _cedazo_, or coarsesieve, the labour of kneading the dough was performed by the_muchacha_. An iron plate was then placed over a rudely-constructedfurnace, and the dough, being beaten by hand into _tortillas_ (thincakes), was baked upon this. What would American housewives say to sucha system as this? The viands being prepared, they were set out upon asmall table, at which we were invited to seat ourselves. The mealconsisted of _tortillas_, stewed jerk beef, with _chile_ seasoning, milk, and _quesadillas_, or cheesecakes, green and tough as leather. However, our appetites were excellent, and we enjoyed the repast with ahigh relish. 

Our host and hostess were very inquisitive in regard to the news frombelow, and as to what would be the effects of the conquest of thecountry by the Americans. The man stated that he and all his family hadrefused to join in the late insurrection. We told them that all waspeaceable now; that there would be no more wars in California; that wewere all Americans, all Californians--_hermanos, hermanas, amigos_. They expressed their delight at this information by numerousexclamations. 

We asked the woman how much the dress which she wore, a miserablecalico, cost her? She answered, "Seis pesos" (six dollars). When wetold her that in a short time, under the American government, she couldpurchase as good a one "_por un peso_, " she threw up her hands inastonishment, expressing by her features at the same time the mostunbounded delight. Her entire wardrobe was soon brought forth, and theprice paid for every article named. She then inquired what would be thecost of similar clothing under the American government, which we toldher. As we replied, exclamation followed upon exclamation, expressiveof her surprise and pleasure, and the whole was concluded with "_Vivalos Americanos--viva los Americanos!_" I wore a large coarse woollenpea-jacket, which the man was very desirous to obtain, offering for ita fine horse. I declined the trade. 

In the evening several of the brothers, sisters, and brothers andsisters-in-law of the family collected, and the guitar and violin, which were suspended from a beam in the house, were taken down, and wewere entertained by a concert of instrumental and vocal music. Most ofthe tunes were such as are performed at fandangos. Some plaintive airswere played and sung with much pathos and expression, the whole partyjoining in the choruses. Although invited to occupy the only room inthe house, we declined it, and spread our blankets on the outside. 

The next morning (January 31st), when we woke, the sun was shiningbright and warm, and the birds were singing gayly in the grove ofevergreen oaks near the house. Having made ready to resume our journey, as delicately as possible we offered our kind hostess compensation forthe trouble we had given her, which she declined, saying, that althoughthey were not rich, they nevertheless had enough and to spare. Wehowever insisted, and she finally accepted, with the condition that wewould also accept of some of her _quesadillas_ and _tortillas_ to carryalong with us. The ranchero mounted his horse and rode with us aboutthree or four miles, to place us on the right trail, when, afterinviting us very earnestly to call and see him again, and bidding us anaffectionate _adios_, he galloped away. 

Travelling over a hilly country, and passing the ruins of severaldeserted ranchos, the grounds surrounding which were strewn with thebones of slaughtered cattle, we reached, about five o'clock P. M. , acluster of houses in the valley of Santa Clara River, ten miles east ofthe mission of San Buenaventura. Here we stopped at the house of a mannamed Sanchez. Our arrival was thought to be worthy of notice, and itwas accordingly celebrated in the evening by a fandango given at one ofthe houses, to which we were invited. The company, to the number ofsome thirty or forty persons, young and old, were assembled in thelargest room of the house, the floor being hard clay. The onlyfurniture contained in the room was a bed and some benches, upon whichthe company seated themselves when not engaged in dancing. 

Among the _senoritas_ assembled were two daughters of an American namedChapman, who has been a resident of the country for many years. Theywere fair-skinned, and might be called handsome. An elder and marriedsister was also present. They called themselves Americans, althoughthey did not speak our language, and seemed to be more proud of theirAmerican than their Spanish blood. 

A singular custom prevails at these fandangos. It is this: during theintervals between the waltzes, quadrilles, and other dances, when thecompany is seated, a young lady takes the floor _solus_, and, aftershowing off her graces for general observation a few minutes, sheapproaches any gentleman she may select, and performs a variety ofpirouettes and other Terpsichorean movements before him for hisespecial amusement and admiration, until he places on her head his hator cap, as the case may be, when she dances away with it. The hat orcap has afterwards to be redeemed by some present, and this usually isin money. Not dancing ourselves, we were favoured with numerous specialexhibitions of this kind, the cost of each of which was _un peso_. Witha long journey before us, and with purses in a nearly collapsedcondition, the drafts upon us became so frequent, that at an earlyhour, under a plea of fatigue and want of rest, we thought it prudentto beat a retreat, leaving our fair and partial _fandangueras_ tobestow their favours upon others better able to bear them. The motionsof the Californian females of all classes in the dance are highlygraceful. The waltz is their favourite measure, and in this they appearto excel as much as the men do in horsemanship. During the progress ofthe dance, the males and females improvise doggerel rhymescomplimentary of the personal beauties and graces of those whom theyadmire, or expressive of their love and devotion, which are chantedwith the music of the instruments, and the whole company join in thegeneral chorus at the end of each verse. The din of voices is sometimesalmost deafening. 

Our host accompanied us to our lodgings on the opposite side of theway. Beds were spread down under the small porch outside, and we laidour bodies upon them, but not to sleep, for the noise of the fandangodancers kept us awake until broad daylight, at which time it broke up. 

Hiring fresh horses here, and a vaquero to drive our tired animalsafter us, we started about 9 o'clock in the morning, and, passingthrough San Buenaventura, reached Santa Barbara, 45 miles, a littleafter two in the afternoon. We stopped at the house of Mr. Sparks, whoreceived us with genuine hospitality. Santa Barbara presented a morelively appearance than when we passed here on our way down, most of itspopulation having returned to their homes. Procuring fresh butmiserably poor horses, we resumed our journey on the afternoon of the2nd of February, and encamped at the rancho of Dr. Deu, situated on theplain of Santa Barbara, near the sea shore. The soil of this plain isof the most fertile composition. The fresh grass is now six or eightinches high, and the varieties are numerous. Many of the early flowersare in bloom. I noticed a large wheat field near the house, and itsappearance was such as to promise a rich harvest. 

The rain fell heavily on the morning of the 3rd, but continuing ourjourney we crossed the St. Ynes Mountain, and, passing the mission bythat name, reached the rancho of Mr. Faxon after dark, where we haltedfor the night. Around the mission of St. Ynes I noticed, as we passed, immense quantities of cattle bones thickly strewn in all directions. Acres of ground were white with these remains of the immense herdsbelonging to this mission in the days of its prosperity, slaughteredfor their hides and tallow. We met two or three elegantly dressedCalifornians to-day, who accosted us with much civility and apparentfriendliness. 

Mr. Faxon is an Englishman by birth, and has resided in Californiaabout thirty years. He is married to a Californian lady, and has afamily of interesting and beautiful children. A large portion of theland belonging to his rancho is admirably adapted to agriculture, andhe raises crops of corn and vegetables as well as wheat withoutirrigation. He informed me that the yield of wheat on his rancho wasfully seventy bushels to the acre. Mr. F. Showed me specimens of leadore from which he moulds his bullets, taken from an inexhaustible minein the Tular Valley, some fifty miles distant from this. It iscertainly the richest ore that I have ever seen, appearing almost likethe pure metal. He also showed me a caustic alkali, produced by burninga plant or shrub which grows in great abundance in the Tular Valley. This substance is used by him in the manufacture of soap. 

About noon on the 4th, we halted at the rancho of Captain Dana, wherewe procured fresh horses, leaving our wretchedly lean and tiredanimals, and, proceeding on, stopped for the night at the rancho of Mr. Branch, an intelligent American, originally from the state of New York, who has been settled in the country a number of years. His rancho issituated on what is called the _arroyo grande_, a small stream whichempties into the Pacific some two or three miles from the house. Thehouse is new, and constructed after American models of farm-houses, with neat and comfortable apartments, chimneys and fireplaces. Thearable lands here are finely adapted to the culture of maize, wheat, and potatoes. 

Our horses straying, it was twelve o'clock on the 5th before we foundthem. The rain had fallen steadily and heavily all night, and duringthe forenoon, and was pouring down when we started. We passed throughthe mission of San Luis Obispo just before sunset, intending to halt ata rancho about three miles distant in a _canada_. But, the stormincreasing in strength, it became suddenly so dark in themountain-gorge, that we could not distinguish the trail, and, afterwandering about some time, vainly attempting to find the house, we werecompelled to bivouac, wet to our skins, without fire or shelter, andthe rain pouring down in torrents. 

The next morning (Feb. 6. ), in hunting up our loose horses, wediscovered the house about half a mile distant from our camp. Continuing our journey, we halted about nine o'clock at a rancho nearthe ruins of Santa Margarita. A solitary Indian was the only occupantof the house, and only inhabitant of the place; and he could furnish uswith no food. Passing two or three other deserted ranches, we reachedthe house of a Mexican about one o'clock, where we obtained a meal offried eggs and _tortillas_, after having been without food thirtyhours. Late in the afternoon we arrived at the mission of San Miguel, now occupied by an Englishman named Reed, his _mestiza_ wife, and onechild, with two or three Indian vaqueros. Crossing the Salinas in themorning (Feb. 7), we continued down its eastern side, and encamped in awide bottom under a large live oak. A _quesadilla_ was all we had toeat. This was divided, one-half being reserved for breakfast. The freshvegetation has so much changed the face of the country on this riversince we passed along here in December, that I scarcely recognise it. The grass is six or eight inches high in the bottom, the bladesstanding so thick as to present a matted appearance, and the hills arebrilliant with flowers--pink, purple, blue, and yellow. 

On the 8th we continued down the eastern bank of the Salinas, passingthrough several large and fertile bottoms, and reaching the rancho ofSan Lorenzo about twelve o'clock. This rancho, as we learned from theproprietors, is owned by two bachelor brothers, one of whom told methat he had not been off his lands but once or twice for several years. Large herds of fat cattle and horses were grazing upon the luxuriantgrasses of the plain, and there were several extensive inclosures sowedin wheat, which presented all the indications of an abundant harvest. But, with all these natural resources surrounding him the elder brothertold us that he had nothing to eat in his house but fresh beef. Aquantity of the choice pieces of a fat beef was roasted by an Indianboy, which we enjoyed with all the relish of hungry men. Our host, agentleman of intelligence and politeness, made apology after apologyfor his rude style of living, a principal excuse being that he had nowife. He inquired, with apparent earnestness, if we could not send himtwo pretty accomplished and capable American women, whom they couldmarry; and then they would build a fine house, have bread, butter, cheese, and all the delicacies, luxuries, and elegancies of life inabundance. He appeared to be well pleased with the conquest of thecountry by the Americans, and desirous that they should not give it up. When we resumed our journey in the afternoon, he rode with us four orfive miles to show us the way, and, on taking his leave, invited us toreturn again, when he said he hoped his accommodations would be muchimproved. Riding 15 miles, we halted at a tule-cabin, where we remaineduntil two o'clock in the morning, when, the moon shining brightly, wemounted our horses, and continued our journey. 

We reached the Monterey road just at daylight. My intention had been tovisit Monterey; but the Salinas being unfordable, and there being noferry, it was not possible to do it without swimming the river, which Idid not feel inclined to do. Monterey is situated on the bay by thatname, about 90 miles by water south of San Francisco. The bay affords agood anchorage and landing in calm weather, being exposed only to thenorthers, which blow violently. The town contains about 1500inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and population. Arriving at the rancho of Don Joaquin Gomez, we found no one but a_mestiza_ servant at home, and could obtain nothing to eat but a_quesadilla_. All the streams, large and small, are much swollen bylate heavy rains, and the travelling is consequently very laborious anddifficult. Resting our horses a short time, we crossed the mountains, and reached the mission of San Juan Bautista about noon. 

At San Juan we met with Messrs. Grayson, Boggs, and a party ofvolunteers returning from Monterey to San Francisco, having beendischarged since the suppression of the rebellion in this part ofCalifornia, headed by Francisco Sanchez. Here we learned, for the firsttime, the arrival at Monterey of Commodore Shubrick in the shipIndependence, and of the Lexington with Captain Tomkins's company ofartillery, and freighted otherwise with munitions, stores, and toolsnecessary to the erection and defence of durable fortifications atMonterey and San Francisco. 

Seven or eight miles beyond San Juan, we found that the waters of the_arroyo_ had risen so as to inundate a wide valley which we werecompelled to cross. After making several ineffectual attempts to reachthe opposite side, wading through the water, and sometimes falling intodeep holes from which it was difficult for either men or horses toextricate themselves, we encamped for the night on a small elevation inthe valley, entirely surrounded by water. Our condition was miserableenough. Tired, wet, and hungry, we laid down for the night on the dampground. 

The next day (Feb. 10), about eleven o'clock, we succeeded in finding aford across the valley and stream, and procured dinner at asoap-factory on the opposite side, belonging to T. O. Larkin, Esq. Continuing on, we encamped at a rancho occupied by an Englishman as_mayor domo_. He was very glad to see us, and treated us with unboundedhospitality, furnishing a superabundance of beef and _frijoles_ for ourconsumption. On the 11th, about three P. M. , we arrived at the Pueblo deSan José, and, finding there a launch employed by Messrs. Howard andMellus in collecting hides, bound for San Francisco, we embarked inher, and on the morning of the 13th arrived at that place. We foundlying here the U. S. Sloop Warren, and Lieutenant Radford politelyfurnished us with a boat to land. In the afternoon the Cyane, CommanderDupont, with Gen. Kearny on board, and the store-ship Erie, with Col. Mason on board, arrived in the harbour. Col. Mason is from the UnitedStates direct, via Panama, and brings late and interestingintelligence. 

The Cyane and Warren have just returned from a cruise on the southernPacific coast of Mexico. The town of Guymas had been taken bybombardment. The Cyane had captured, during her cruize, fourteenprizes, besides several guns at San Blas. The boats of the Warren, under the command of Lieut. Radford, performed the gallant feat ofcutting out of the harbour of Mazatlan the Mexican schooner MalekAbdel. 

Landing in San Francisco, I found my wardrobe, which I had deposited inthe care of Capt. Leidesdorff, and the first time for nearly fivemonths dressed myself in a civilized costume. Having been during thattime almost constantly in motion, and exposed to many hardships andprivations, it was, as may be supposed, no small satisfaction to findonce more a place where I could repose for a short time at least. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

 Progress of the town of San Francisco Capt. Dupont Gen. Kearny The presidio Appointed Alcalde Gen. Kearny's proclamation Arrival of Col. Stevenson's regiment Horse-thief Indians Administration of justice in California Sale of lots in San Francisco. 

Wherever the Anglo-Saxon race plant themselves, progress is certain tobe displayed in some form or other. Such is their "go-ahead" energy, that things cannot stand still where they are, whatever may be thecircumstances surrounding them. Notwithstanding the wars andinsurrections, I found the town of San Francisco, on my arrival here, visibly improved. An American population had flowed into it; lots, which heretofore have been considered almost valueless, were selling athigh prices; new houses had been built, and were in progress; newcommercial houses had been established; hotels had been opened for theaccommodation of the travelling and business public; and thepublication of a newspaper had been commenced. The little village oftwo hundred souls, when I arrived here in September last, is fastbecoming a town of importance. Ships freighted with full cargoes areentering the port, and landing their merchandise to be disposed of atwholesale and retail on shore, instead of the former mode of vendingthem afloat in the harbour. There is a prevailing air of activity, enterprise, and energy; and men, in view of the advantageous positionof the town for commerce, are making large calculations upon thefuture; calculations which I believe will be fully realized. 

On the 15th I dined on board the sloop-of-war Cyane, with CommanderDupont, to whom I had the good fortune to be the bearer from home of aletter of introduction. I say "good fortune, " because I conceive it tobe one of the greatest of social blessings, as well as pleasures, to bemade acquainted with a truly upright and honourable man--one whoseintegrity never bends to wrongful or pusillanimous expediency;--onewho, armed intellectually with the panoply of justice, has courage tosustain it under any and all circumstances;--one whose ambition is, ina public capacity, to serve his country, and not to serve himself;--onewho waits for his country to judge of his acts, and, if worthy, toplace the laurel wreath upon his head, disdaining a self-wrought andself-assumed coronal. Capt. Dupont is a native of Delaware; and thatgallant and patriotic state should feel proud of such a son. He is oneof whom all men, on sea or on land, with whom his duties as an officeror citizen of our republic brings him in contact, speak well; and whoseprivate virtues, as well as professional merits, are deserving of thewarmest admiration and the highest honours. 

Although I have long known Gen. S. W. Kearny from reputation, and sawhim at Los Angeles, I was here introduced to him for the first time. Gen. K. Is a man rising fifty years of age. His height is about fivefeet ten or eleven inches. His figure is all that is required bysymmetry. His features are regular, almost Grecian; his eye is blue, and has an eagle-like expression, when excited by stern or angryemotion; but, in ordinary social intercourse, the whole expression ofhis countenance is mild and pleasing, and his manners and conversationare unaffected, urbane, and conciliatory, without the slightestexhibition of vanity or egotism. He appears the cool, brave, andenergetic soldier; the strict disciplinarian, without tyranny; the man, in short, determined to perform his duty, in whatever situation he maybe placed, leaving consequences to follow in their natural course. These, my first impressions, were fully confirmed by subsequentintercourse, in situations and under circumstances which, byexperience, I have found an unfailing alembic for the trial ofcharacter--a crucible wherein, if the metal be impure, the drossysubstances are sure to display themselves. It is not my province toextol or pronounce judgment upon his acts; they are a part of themilitary and civil history of our country, and as such will beapplauded or condemned, according to the estimate that may be placedupon them. But I may be allowed to express the opinion, that no man, placed under the same circumstances, ever aimed to perform his dutywith more uprightness and more fidelity to the interests and honour ofhis country, or who, to shed lustre upon his country, ever bravedgreater dangers, or endured more hardships and privations, and allwithout vaunting his performances and sacrifices. 

On the 16th, in company of Gen. Kearny, Capt. Turner, and Lieuts. Warner and Hallock, of the U. S. Engineer Corps, I rode to the Presidioof San Francisco, and the old fortification at the mouth of the bay. The presidio is about three miles from the town, and consists ofseveral blocks of adobe buildings, covered with files. The walls ofmost of the buildings are crumbling for the want of care in protectingthem from the annual rains; and without this care they will soon becomeheaps of mud. The fort is erected upon a commanding position, about amile and a half from the entrance to the bay. Its walls aresubstantially constructed of burnt brick, and are of sufficientthickness and strength to resist heavy battering. There are nine or tenembrasures. Like everything else in the country belonging to thepublic, the fort is fast falling into ruins. There has been no garrisonhere for several years; the guns are dismounted, and half decomposed bylong exposure to the weather, and from want of care. Some of them havesunk into the ground. 

On the 20th I was waited upon by Gen. Kearny, and requested to acceptthe office of alcalde, or chief magistrate, of the district of SanFrancisco. There being no opportunity of returning to the United Statesimmediately, I accepted of the proposed appointment, and on the 22d wassworn into office, my predecessor, Lieut. W. A. Bartlett, of the navy, being ordered to his ship by the commanding officer of the squadron. 

The annual salute in celebration of the birthday of the immortal andillustrious founder of our republic, required by law from all the shipsof the navy in commission, in whatever part of the world they may be atthe time, strikes us more forcibly when in a far-off country, as beinga beautiful and appropriate tribute to the unapproachable virtues andheroism of that great benefactor of the human race, than when we arenearer home, or upon our own soil. The U. S. Ships in the harbour, attwelve o'clock on the 22d, each fired a national salute; and the daybeing calm and beautiful, the reports bounded from hill to hill, andwere echoed and re-echoed until the sound died away, apparently in thedistant gorges of the Sierra Nevada. This was a voice from the soul ofWASHINGTON, speaking in majestic and thunder-tones to the green andflowery valley, the gentle hills and lofty mountains of California, andconsecrating them as the future abode of millions upon millions of thesons of liberty. The merchant and whale ships lying at anchor, catchingthe enthusiasm, joined in the salute; and for a time the harbour andbay in front of the town were enveloped in clouds of gunpowder smoke. 

General Kearny left San Francisco, in the frigate Savannah, CaptainMervine, on the 23d, for Monterey, and soon after his arrival at thatplace issued the following proclamation:--

 PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA. 

 The President of the United States having instructed the undersigned to take charge of the civil government of California, he enters upon his duties with an ardent desire to promote, as far as he is able, the interests of the country and the welfare of its inhabitants. 

 The undersigned has instructions from the President to respect and protect the religious institutions of California, and to see that the religious rights of the people are in the amplest manner preserved to them, the constitution of the United States allowing every man to worship his Creator in such a manner as his own conscience may dictate to him. 

 The undersigned is also instructed to protect the persons and property of the quiet and peaceable inhabitants of the country against all or any of their enemies, whether from abroad or at home; and when he now assures the Californians that it will be his duty and his pleasure to comply with those instructions, he calls upon them all to exert themselves in preserving order and tranquillity, in promoting harmony and concord, and in maintaining the authority and efficiency of the laws. 

 It is the wish and design of the United States to provide for California, with the least possible delay, a free government, similar to those in her other territories; and the people will soon be called upon to exercise their rights as freemen, in electing their own representatives, to make such laws as may be deemed best for their interest and welfare. But until this can be done, the laws now in existence, and not in conflict with the constitution of the United States, will be continued until changed by competent authority; and those persons who hold office will continue in the same for the present, provided they swear to support that constitution, and to faithfully perform their duty. 

 The undersigned hereby absolves all the inhabitants of California from any further allegiance to the republic of Mexico, and will consider them as citizens of the United States; those who remain quiet and peaceable will be respected in their rights and protected in them. Should any take up arms against or oppose the government of this territory, or instigate others to do so, they will be considered as enemies, and treated accordingly. 

 When Mexico forced a war upon the United States, time did not permit the latter to invite the Californians as friends to join her standard, but compelled her to take possession of the country to prevent any European power from seizing upon it, and, in doing so, some excesses and unauthorized acts were no doubt committed by persons employed in the service of the United States, by which a few of the inhabitants have met with a loss of property; such losses will be duly investigated, and those entitled to remuneration will receive it. 

 California has for many years suffered greatly from domestic troubles; civil wars have been the poisoned fountains which have sent forth trouble and pestilence over her beautiful land. Now those fountains are dried up; the star-spangled banner floats over California, and as long as the sun continues to shine upon her, so long will it float there, over the natives of the land, as well as others who have found a home in her bosom; and under it agriculture must improve, and the arts and sciences flourish, as seed in a rich and fertile soil. 

 The Americans and Californians are now but one people; let us cherish one wish, one hope, and let that be for the peace and quiet of our country. Let us, as a band of brothers, unite and emulate each other in our exertions to benefit and improve this our beautiful, and which soon must be our happy and prosperous, home. 

 Done at Monterey, capital of California, this first day of March, A. D. 1847, and in the seventy-first year of independence of the United Suites. 

 S. W. KEARNY Brig. -Gen. , U. S. A. , and Governor of California. 

The proclamation of General Kearny gave great satisfaction to thenative as well as the emigrant population of the country. Several ofthe alcaldes of the district of my jurisdiction, as well as privateindividuals (natives of the country), expressed, by letter and orally, their approbation of the sentiments of the proclamation in the warmestterms. They said that they were heartily willing to become Americansupon these terms, and hoped that there would be the least possibledelay in admitting them to the rights of American citizenship. Therewas a general expectation among natives as well as foreigners, that arepresentative form of territorial government would be immediatelyestablished by General Kearny. Why this was not done, is explained bythe recent publication of General Scott's letter to General Kearny, dated November 3rd, 1846, of which Colonel Mason was the bearer, hehaving left the United States on the 7th November. In this letterGeneral Scott says:--

"As a guide to the civil governor of Upper California, in our hands, see the letter of June 3rd (last), addressed to you by the Secretary ofWar. You will not, however, formally declare the province to beannexed. Permanent incorporation of the territory must depend on thegovernment of the United States. 

"After occupying with our forces all necessary points in UpperCalifornia, and establishing a temporary civil government therein, aswell as assuring yourself of its internal tranquillity, and the absenceof any danger of reconquest on the part of Mexico, you may chargeColonel Mason, United States first dragoons, the bearer of this openletter, or land officer next in rank to your own, with your severalduties, and return yourself, with a sufficient escort of troops, to St. Louis, Missouri; but the body of the United States dragoons thataccompanied you to California will remain there until further orders. "

The transport ships Thomas H. Perkins, Loo Choo, Susan Drew, andBrutus, with Colonel Stevenson's regiment, arrived at San Franciscoduring the months of March and April. These vessels were freighted witha vast quantity of munitions, stores, tools, saw-mills, grist-mills, etc. , etc. , to be employed in the fortification of the principalharbours on the coast--San Francisco, Monterey, and San Diego. Theregiment of Col. Stevenson was separated into different commands, portions of it being stationed at San Francisco, Sonoma, Monterey, Santa Barbara, and Los Angeles; and some companies employed against thehorse-thief Indians of the Sierra Nevada and the Tulares. 

As good an account of these horse-thief Indians, and theirdepredations, as I have seen, I find in the "California Star, " of March28th, 1847, written by a gentleman who has been a resident ofCalifornia for a number of years, and who has been a sufferer. It issubjoined:--

"During the Spanish regime, such a thing as a horse-thief was unknownin the country; but as soon as the Mexicans took possession, theircharacteristic anarchy began to prevail, and the Indians to desert fromthe missions. The first Indian horse-thief known in this part of thecountry was a neophyte of the mission of Santa Clara, George, whoflourished about twenty years ago. He absconded from his mission to theriver of Stanislaus, of which he was a native. From thence he returnedto the settlements, and began to steal horses, which at that time werevery numerous. After pursuing his depredations for some time, he was atlast pursued and killed on his return from one of his forages. Themission of Santa Clara has been, from that time to the present day, thegreatest nursery for horse thieves, as the Stanislaus river has beenand is their principal rendezvous. I have taken some pains to inquireamong some of the most intelligent and respectable of the nativeinhabitants, as to the probable number of horses that have been stolenbetween Monterey and San Francisco within the last twenty years, andthe result has been that more than one hundred thousand can bedistinctly enumerated, and that the total amount would probably bedouble that number. Nearly all these horses have been eaten! From theriver of Stanislaus, as a central point, the evil has spread to thenorth and south, and at present extends from the vicinity of theMickélemes River on the north, to the sources of the St. Joaquin on thesouth. These Indians inhabit all the western declivity of the greatsnowy mountains, within these limits, and have become so habituated toliving on horseflesh, that it is now with them the principal means ofsubsistence. 

"In past time they have been repeatedly pursued, and many of themkilled, and whole villages destroyed, but, so far from being deterred, they are continually becoming more bold and daring in their robberies, as horses become scarcer and more carefully guarded. About twentypersons have been killed by them within the knowledge of the writer. Among others, Mr. Lindsay and Mr. Wilson were killed by them not longago. Only about one month since, they shot and dangerously wounded fourpersons employed on the farm of Mr. Weber, near the Pueblo of St. Joseph, and at the same time stole the horses of the farm, and thosealso from the farms of Captain Fisher and Mr. Burnal, in the samevicinity; in all, about two hundred head. Within the last ten daysnumerous parties of them have been committing depredations on many ofthe farms in the jurisdiction of the Contra Costa, and scarcely a nightpasses but we hear of their having stolen horses from some one. Threedays ago, a party of them were met by some young men who had been outcatching wild horses on the plains of the St. Joaquin, but as they weremounted on tired animals, they were only able to recapture the stolenhorses, but could not overtake the thieves. "

It has not been within the scope of my design, in writing out thosenotes, to enter into the minute details of the conquest and occupationof California by the forces of the United States. To do so wouldrequire more space than I have allowed myself, and the matter would bemore voluminous than interesting or important. My intention has been togive such a sketch of the military operations in California, during myresidence and travels in the country, as to afford to the reader ageneral and correct idea of the events transpiring at the time. Noimportant circumstance, I think, has escaped my attention. 

Among the officers of the army stationed at San Francisco, with whom Ibecame acquainted, were Major Hardie, in command of the troops, CaptainFolsom, acting quartermaster-general in California, and LieutenantWarner, of the engineer corps. Lieutenant Warner marched with GeneralKearny from the United States, and was at the battle of San Pasqual. Ihave seen the coat which he wore on that occasion, pierced in sevendifferent places by the lances of the enemy. He did not make thisexhibition himself; and I never heard him refer to the subject butonce, and then it was with the modesty of a veteran campaigner. 

The corps of topographical engineers accompanying General Kearny, underthe command of Captain Emory, will, doubtless, furnish in their reportmuch interesting and valuable information. Mr. Stanley, the artist Ofthe expedition, completed his sketches in oil, at San Francisco; and amore truthful, interesting, and valuable series of paintings, delineating mountain scenery, the floral exhibitions on the route, thesavage tribes between Santa Fe and California--combined with camp-lifeand marches through the desert and wilderness--has never been, andprobably never will be, exhibited. Mr. Stanley informed me that he waspreparing a work on the savage tribes of North America and of theislands of the Pacific, which, when completed on his plan, will be themost comprehensive and descriptive of the subject of any that has beenpublished. 

Legal proceedings are much less complex in California than in theUnited States. There is no written statute law in the country. The onlylaw books I could find were a digested code entitled, "Laws of Spainand the Indies, " published in Spain about a hundred years ago, and asmall pamphlet defining the powers of various judicial officers, emanating from the Mexican government since the revolution. A lateMexican governor of California, on being required by a magistrate toinstruct him as to the manner in which he should administer the lawwithin his jurisdiction, replied, "_Administer it in accordance withthe principles of natural right and justice_, " and this is thefoundation of Californian jurisprudence. The local _bandos_, or laws, are enacted, adjudicated, and executed by the local magistrates, oralcaldes. The alcalde has jurisdiction in all municipal matters, and incases for minor offences, and for debt in sums not over one hundreddollars. In cases of heinous or capital offences, the alcalde hassimply an examining power, the testimony being taken down in writing, and transmit-to the _juez de primera instancia_, or first judge of thedistrict, before whom the case is tried. Civil actions, for sums overone hundred dollars, must also be tried before the _juez de primerainstancia_, and from him there is an appeal to the prefect, or thegovernor of the province. The trial by _hombres buenos_, or good men, is one of the established legal tribunals when either of the partiesdemand it, and is similar to our trial by jury; the difference being inthe number, the _hombres buenos_ usually consisting of three or five, as they may be ordered by the magistrate, or requested by thelitigants, and our jury of twelve. With honest and intelligentmagistrates, the system operates advantageously, as justice is speedyand certain; but the reverse of this, with corrupt and ignorantmagistrates, too frequently in power, the consequences of the systemare as bad as can well be imagined. 

The policy of the Mexican government has been to encourage in certainlocalities the erection of pueblos, or towns, and for this purpose theyhave made grants of land to the local authorities, or municipalities, within certain defined limits, to be regranted upon application, inlots of fifty or one hundred varass, as the case may be, to personsdeclaring their intention to settle and to do business in the town. Forthese grants to individuals a certain sum of money is paid, which goesinto the treasury of the municipality. The magistrates, however, without special permission, have no power to grant lots of land withina certain number of feet of or below high-water mark. The power isreserved to be exercised by the governor of the province. It beingnecessary for the convenient landing of ships, and for the dischargingand receiving of their cargoes, that the beach in front of the town ofSan Francisco should be improved with wharfs, etc. , etc. , and thattitles should be granted to individuals who otherwise would make nodurable improvements. As magistrate of the town, in compliance with therequest of numerous citizens, I solicited from General Kearny, theacting governor, a relinquishment, on the part of the generalgovernment, of the beach lands in front of the town in favour of themunicipality, under certain conditions. This was granted by theGovernor, who issued a decree dated 10th March, permitting the sales byauction of all such grounds adjacent to the water-side as might befound adapted to commercial purposes, with the exception of such lotsas might be selected for the use of the United States government, byits proper officers. The sales accordingly took place, the lots wereeagerly purchased, and the port has already become a place ofconsiderable commercial activity. 

CHAPTER XV. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS UPON THE COUNTRY. 

 First settlement of the missionaries Population Characteristics of white population Employments Pleasures and amusements Position of women Soil Grasses Vegetable productions Agriculture Fruits Cattle Horses Wild animals Minerals Climate Flora Water-power Timber Religion. 

It was during the month of November, 1602, the sun just retiring behindthe distant high land which forms the background of a spacious harbourat the southernmost point of Alta California, that a small fleet ofvessels might have been seen directing their course as if in search ofa place of anchorage; their light sails drawn up, while the largerones, swelling now and then to the action of the breeze, bore themmajestically along, forcing their way through the immense and almostimpenetrable barrier of sea-weed, to a haven which, at the remoteperiod stated, was considered the unexplored region of the North. Thefleet referred to hauled their wind to the shore, and, passing a bluffpoint of land on their left, soon came to anchor; but not until theshades of night had cast a gloom over the scene so recently lighted upwith the gorgeous rays of a setting sun. 

This was the commencement, or rather preliminary mark, of civilizationin this country, by the Spaniards, (if so it can be called, ) and on thefollowing morning a detachment was landed, accompanied by a friar, tomake careful investigation of the long ridge of high land which servesas a protection to the harbour from the heavy north-west gales. Theyfound, as reported, an abundance of small oak and other trees, togetherwith a great variety of useful and aromatic herbs; and from its summitthey beheld the extent and beauty of the port, reaching, as they said, full three leagues from where the vessel lay at anchor. A large tentwas erected on the sandy beach, to answer the purposes of a church, where the friar might perform mass, and by directions of the commandingofficers, the boats were drawn up for repairing, wells were dug, parties were sent off to cut wood, while guards were placed atconvenient distances to give notice of the approach of any hostileforce. The latter precaution was hardly carried into effect, ere alarge body of naked Indians were seen moving along the shore, armedwith bows and arrows. A friar, protected by six soldiers, wasdispatched to meet them, who, making signs of peace by exhibiting awhite flag and throwing handfuls of sand high into the air, influencedthem to lay aside their arms, when, affectionately embracing them, thegood old friar distributed presents of beads and necklaces, with whichthey eagerly adorned their persons. This manifestation of good feelinginduced them to draw near to where the commander had landed with hismen, but perceiving so large a number, they retreated to a neighbouringknoll, and from thence sent forward to the Spaniards ten aged females, who, possessing apparently so much affability, were presentedimmediately with gifts, and instructed to go and inform their people ofthe friendly disposition cherished for them by the white strangers. This was sufficient to implant a free intercourse with the Indians, whodaily visited the Spaniards, and bartered off their skins and furs inexchange for bread and trinkets. But at length the time arrived for thefleet to depart, and they proceeded northward, visiting in their courseMonterey and Mendocino, where the same favourable result attended theenterprise as at other places, and they returned in safety to NewSpain. 

So successful had been the character of this expedition throughout theentire period of its execution, that an enthusiasm prevailed in theminds of the Spaniards, which could only be assuaged by an attempt toconquer and christianize the inhabitants of that distant portion of theAmerican continent. Many were the fruitless results of the Spanishadventurer--numerous were the statements of his toil and labour, tillat length a formidable attempt, under the patronage and direction ofDon Gaspar de Portala and Father Junipero Serra, successfully achievedthe desired object for which it was planned and executed. 

At San Diego, where, a century and a half before, the primitivenavigators under Cortez communed with the rude and unsophisticatednative--there, where the zealous devotee erected his altar on theburning sand, and with offerings of incense and prayer hallowed it toGod, as the birthplace of Christianity in that region--upon thatsainted spot commenced the spiritual conquest, the cross was erected, and the holy missionaries who accompanied the expedition entered heartand soul upon their religious duties. Successful in all they undertook, their first establishment in a short time was completed, and drawingaround it the converted Indians in large numbers, the rude anduncultivated fields gave place to agricultural improvement--the artsand sciences gradually obtained foundation where before all wasdarkness, and day after day hundreds were added to the folds of theholy and apostolic church. Thus triumphantly proceeded the labours ofthe Spanish conquerors! In course of time other institutions werefounded at Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco, where at eachplace a military fortress was erected, which served for theirprotection, and to keep in check such of the natives who weredisinclined to observe the regulations of the community. 

The natives formed an ardent and almost adorable attachment for theirspiritual fathers, and were happy, quite happy, under theirjurisdiction. Ever ready to obey them, the labour in the field andworkshop met with ready compliance, and so prosperous were theinstitutions that many of them became wealthy, in the increase of theircattle and great abundance of their granaries. It was no unusual sightto behold the plains for leagues literally spotted with bullocks, andlarge fields of corn and wheat covering acres of ground. This state ofthings continued until the period when Mexico underwent a change in itspolitical form of government, which so disheartened the feelings of theloyal missionaries, that they became regardless of theirestablishments, and suffered them to decline for want of attention totheir interests. At length, civil discord and anarchy among theCalifornians prepared a more effective measure for their destruction, and they were left to the superintendence of individuals who plunderedthem of all that was desirable or capable of removal. Thus, thegovernment commenced the robbery, and its hirelings carried it out tothe letter, destroying and laying waste wherever they were placed. Inorder to give the inhabitants a share of the spoils, some of them werepermitted to slaughter the cattle by contract, which was an equaldivision of the proceeds, and the contractors were careful, when theydelivered one hide to a mission, to reserve _two_ for themselves, inthis way following up the example of their superiors. 

This important revolution in the systematic order of the monasticinstitutions took place in 1836, at which period the most important ofthem possessed property, exclusive of their lands and tenements, to thevalue of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. At the present daythey have but a little more than dilapidated walls and restrictedboundaries of territory. Notwithstanding this wanton devastation ofproperty, contrary to the opinion of many who were strongly in favourof supporting these religious institutions, the result provedbeneficial to the country at large. Individual enterprise succeeded asthe lands became distributed, so that the Californian beheld himself nolonger dependent on the bounty of his spiritual directors, but, on thecontrary, he was enabled to give support to them, from the increase andabundance of his own possessions. 

Subsequent to the expulsion of the Mexicans, numbers of new farms werecreated, and hundreds of Americans were scattered over the country. Previous to 1830, the actual possessions of horned cattle by the_rancheros_ did not exceed one hundred thousand; but in 1842, accordingto a fair estimate, made by one on the spot, the number had increasedto four hundred thousand; so that the aggregate is equal to that heldby the missions when in their most flourishing condition. The presentnumber is not much, if any, short of one million. 

Presuming a statistical knowledge of this country, before and after themissionary institutions were secularized, may be interesting, I willinsert the following returns of 1831 and 1842, to contrast the samewith its present condition:--

1st. In 1832 the white population throughout Alta-California did notexceed 4, 500, while the Indians of the twenty-one missions amounted to19, 000; in 1842, the former had increased to 7, 000, and the latterdecreased to about 5, 000. 

2nd. In the former year, the number of horned cattle, includingindividual possessions, amounted to 500, 000; in the latter, to 40, 000. 

3rd. At the same period, the number of sheep, goats, and pigs, was321, 000; at the latter, 32, 000. 

4th. In 1831 the number of horses, asses, mules, etc. , was 64, 000; in1842 it was 30, 000. 

5th. The produce in corn, etc. , had decreased in a much greaterproportion--that of seventy to four. 

The amount of duties raised at the customhouse in Monterey, from 1839to 1842, was as follows, viz. :--

 1839 85, 613 dollars. 1840 72, 308 dollars 1841 101, 150 dollars 1842 73, 729 dollars. 

The net amount of revenue seldom exceeding in any year eighty thousanddollars; so that, when a deficiency took place, to supply theexpenditures of government, it had been usual to call upon the missionsfor aid. 

The value of the hides and tallow derived from the annual _matanzas_may be estimated at 372, 000 dollars. These two commodities, with theexception of some beaver, sea-otter, and other furs, comprise the mostimportant part of the exportations, which in addition, would augmentthe value of exports to 400, 000 dollars. 

The permanent population of that portion of Upper California situatedbetween the Sierra Nevada and the Pacific, I estimate at 25, 000. Ofthis number, 8, 000 are Hispano-Americans, 5, 000 foreigners, chieflyfrom the United States, and 12, 000 christianized Indians. There areconsiderable numbers of wild or Gentile Indians, inhabiting the valleyof the San Joaquin and the gorges of the Sierra, not included in thisestimate. They are probably as numerous as the Christian Indians. TheIndian population inhabiting the region of the Great Salt Lake, Mary'sRiver, the oases of the Great Desert Basin, and the country borderingthe Rio Colorado and its tributaries, being spread over a vast extentof territory, are scarcely seen, although the aggregate number isconsiderable. 

The Californians do not differ materially from the Mexicans, from whomthey are descended, in other provinces of that country. Physically andintellectually, the men, probably, are superior to the same racefarther south, and inhabiting the countries contiguous to the city ofMexico. The intermixture of blood with the Indian and negro races hasbeen less, although it is very perceptible. 

The men, as a general fact, are well made, with pleasing sprightlycountenances, and possessing much grace and ease of manners, andvivacity of conversation. But hitherto they have had little knowledgeof the world and of events, beyond what they have heard through Mexico, and derived from the supercargoes of merchant-ships and whalementouching upon the coast. There are no public schools in the country--atleast I never heard of one. There are but few books. General Valléjohas a library with many valuable books, and this is the only one I saw, although there are others; but they are rare, and confined to a fewfamilies. 

The men are almost constantly on horseback, and as horsemen excel any Ihave seen in other parts of the world. From the nature of theirpursuits and amusements, they have brought horsemanship to a perfectionchallenging admiration and exciting astonishment. They are trained tothe horse and the use of the lasso (_riata_, as it is here called) fromtheir infancy. The first act of a child, when he is able to standalone, is to throw his toy lasso around the neck of a kitten; his nextfeat is performed on the dog; his next upon a goat or calf; and so on, until he mounts the horse, and demonstrates his skill upon horses andcattle. The crowning feat of dexterity with the _riata_, and ofhorsemanship, combined with daring courage, is the lassoing of thegrisly bear. This feat is performed frequently upon this large andferocious animal, but it is sometimes fatal to the performer and hishorse. Well drilled, with experienced military leaders, such as wouldinspire them with confidence in their skill and prowess, theCalifornians ought to be the finest cavalry in the world. TheCalifornian saddle is, I venture to assert, the best that has beeninvented, for the horse and the rider. Seated in one of these, it isscarcely possible to be unseated by any ordinary casualty. Thebridle-bit is clumsily made, but so constructed that the horse iscompelled to obey the rider upon the slightest intimation. The spursare of immense size, but they answer to an experienced horseman thedouble purpose of exciting the horse, and of maintaining the rider inhis seat under difficult circumstances. 

For the pleasures of the table they care but little. With his horse andtrappings, his sarape and blanket, a piece of beef and a _tortilla_, the Californian is content, so far as his personal comforts areconcerned. But he is ardent in his pursuit of amusement and pleasure, and these consist chiefly in the fandango, the game of monte, horse-racing, and bull and bear-baiting. They gamble freely anddesperately, but pay their losses with the most strict punctuality, atany and every sacrifice, and manifest but little concern about them. They are obedient to their magistrates, and in all disputed casesdecided by them, acquiesce without uttering a word of complaint. Theyhave been accused of treachery and insincerity. Whatever may have beenthe grounds for these accusations in particular instances, I know not;but, judging from my own observation and experience, they are as freefrom these qualities as our own people. 

While the men are employed in attending to the herds of cattle andhorses, and engaged in their other amusements, the women (I speak ofthe middle classes on the ranchos) superintend and perform most of thedrudgery appertaining to housekeeping, and the cultivation of thegardens, from whence are drawn such vegetables as are consumed at thetable. These are few, consisting of _frijoles_, potatoes, onions, and_chiles_. The assistants in these labours are the Indian men and women, legally reduced to servitude. 

The soil of that portion of California between the Sierra Nevada andthe Pacific will compare, in point of fertility, with any that I haveseen elsewhere. As I have already described such portions of it as havecome under my observation, it is unnecessary for me here to descend toparticulars. Wheat, barley, and other small grains, with hemp, flax, and tobacco, can be produced in all the valleys, without irrigation. Toproduce maize, potatoes, and other garden vegetables, irrigation isnecessary. Oats and mustard grow spontaneously, with such rankness asto be considered nuisances upon the soil. I have forced my way throughthousands of acres of these, higher than my head when mounted on ahorse. The oats grow to the summits of the hills, but they are not hereso tall and rank as in the valleys. 

The varieties of grasses are greater than on the Atlantic side of thecontinent, and far more nutritious. I have seen seven different kindsof clover, several of them in a dry state, depositing a seed upon theground so abundant as to cover it, which is lapped up by the cattle andhorses and other animals, as corn or oats, when threshed, would be withus. All the grasses, and they cover the entire country, are heavilyseeded, and, when ripe, are as fattening to stock as the grains whichwe feed to our beef, horses, and hogs. Hence it is unnecessary to thesustenance or fattening of stock to raise corn for their consumption. 

Agriculture is in its rudest state. The farming implements which havebeen used by the Californians, with few exceptions, are the same aswere used three hundred years ago, when Mexico was conquered by Cortez. A description of them would be tedious. The plough, however, whichmerely scratches the ground, is the fork of a small tree. It is thesame pattern as the Roman plough, two thousand years ago. Otheragricultural implements are of the same description. The Americans, andother foreigners, are, however, introducing the American plough, andother American farming tools, the consequence of which has alreadybeen, to some extent, to produce a revolution in agriculture. The cropsof wheat and barley, which I saw about the 1st of June, while passingthrough the country on my journey to the United States, exceeded inpromise any which I have seen in the United States. It was reported tome that Captain Sutter's crop of wheat, for 1847, would amount to75, 000 bushels. 

The natural vegetable productions of California have been sufficientlynoticed in the course of this work, for the reader to form a correctestimate of the capabilities of the soil and climate. It is supposed bysome, that cotton, sugar, and rice, could be produced here. I do notdoubt but there are portions of the country where these crops wouldthrive; but I question whether, generally, they could be cultivated toadvantage. Nearly all the fruits of the temperate and tropical climatesare produced in perfection in California, as has before been stated. 

The principal product of the country has been its cattle and horses. The cattle are, I think, the largest and finest I ever saw, and thebeef is more delicious. There are immense herds of these, to which Ihave previously referred; and their hides and tallow, when slaughtered, have hitherto composed the principal exports from the country. If Iwere to hazard an estimate of the number of hides annually exported, itwould be conjectural, and not worth much. I would suppose, however, atthis time (1847), that the number would not fall much short of 150, 000, and a corresponding number of arrobas (25 pounds) of tallow. Theaverage value of cattle is about five dollars per head. 

The horses and mules are correspondingly numerous with the cattle; andalthough the most of them are used in the country, considerable numbersare driven to Sonora, New Mexico, and other southern provinces, andsome of them to the United States, for a market. They are smaller thanAmerican horses, and I do not think them equal for continuous hardservice; but on short trips, for riding, their speed and endurance arenot often, if ever, equalled by our breed of horses. The value of goodhorses is from ten to twenty-five dollars; of mares, five dollars. Theprices have, however, since the Americans came into the country, becomefluctuating, and the value of both horses and cattle is increasingrapidly. 

The wild animals of California are the wild-horse, the elk, theblack-tailed deer, antelope, grizly bear, all in large numbers. Addedto these are the beaver, otter, coyote, hare, squirrel, and the usualvariety of other small animals. There is not so great a variety ofsmall birds as I have seen elsewhere. I do not consider that thecountry presents strong attractions for the ornithologist. But what iswanting in variety is made up in numbers. The bays and indentations onthe coast, as well as the rivers and lakes interior, swarm with myriadsof wild geese, ducks, swans, and other water birds. The geese and ducksare a mongrel race, their plumage being variegated, the same as ourbarn-yard fowls. Some of the islands in the harbour, near SanFrancisco, are white with the _guano_ deposited by these birds; andboat-loads of eggs are taken from them. The pheasant and partridge areabundant in the mountains. 

In regard to the minerals of California, not much is yet known. It hasbeen the policy of the owners of land upon which there existed mineralsto conceal them as much as possible. A reason for this has been, thatthe law of Mexico is such, that if one man discovers a mine of any kindupon another man's land, and the proprietor does not work it, theformer may _denounce_ the mine, and take possession of it, and hold itso long as he continues to work it. Hence the proprietors of land uponwhich there are valuable mineral ores conceal their existence as muchas possible. While in California I saw quicksilver, silver, lead, andiron ores, and the specimens were taken from mines said to beinexhaustible. From good authority I learned the existence of gold andcopper mines, the metals being combined; and I saw specimens of coaltaken from two or three different points, but I do not know what theindications were as to quality. Brimstone, saltpetre, muriate andcarbonate of soda, and bitumen, are abundant. There is little doubtthat California is as rich in minerals of all kinds as any portion ofMexico. 

I have taken much pains to describe to the reader, from day to day, andat different points during my travels in California, the temperatureand weather. It is rarely so cold in the settled portions of Californiaas to congeal water. But twice only while here I saw ice, and then notthicker than window-glass. I saw no snow resting upon the ground. Theannual rains commence in November, and continue, with intervals ofpleasant springlike weather, until May. From May to November, usually, no rain falls. There are, however, exceptions. Rain sometimes falls inAugust. The thermometer, at any season of the year, rarely sinks below50° or rises above 80°. In certain positions on the coast, andespecially at San Francisco, the winds rise diurnally, and blowingfresh upon the shore render the temperature cool in midsummer. In thewinter the wind blows from the land, and the temperature at thesepoints is warmer. These local peculiarities of climate are notdescriptive of the general climate of the interior. 

For salubrity I do not think there is any climate in the world superiorto that of the coast of California. I was in the country nearly a year, exposed much of the time to great hardships and privations, sleeping, for the most part, in the open air, and I never felt while there thefirst pang of disease, or the slightest indication of bad health. Onsome portions of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, wherevegetation is rank, and decays in the autumn, the malaria produceschills and fever, but generally the attacks are slight, and yieldeasily to medicine. The atmosphere is so pure and preservative alongthe coast, that I never saw putrified flesh, although I have seen, inmidsummer, dead carcasses lying exposed to the sun and weather formonths. They emitted no offensive smell. There is but little disease inthe country arising from the climate. 

The botany and flora of California are rich, and will hereafter form afruitful field of discovery to the naturalist. There are numerousplants reported to possess extraordinary medical virtues. The"soap-plant" (_amole_) is one which appears to be among the mostserviceable. The root, which is the saponaceous portion of the plant, resembles the onion, but possesses the quality of cleansing linen equalto any "oleic soap" manufactured by my friends Cornwall and Brother, ofLouisville, Ky. 

There is another plant in high estimation with the Californians, called_canchalagua_, which is held by them as an antidote for all thediseases to which they are subject, but in particular for cases offever and ague. For purifying the blood, and regulating the system, Ithink it surpasses all the medicinal herbs that have been brought intonotice, and it must become, in time, one of the most important articlesin the practice of medicine. In the season for flowers, which isgenerally during the months of May and June, its pretty pink-colouredblossoms form a conspicuous display in the great variety which adornthe fields of California. 

The water-power in California is ample for any required mill purposes. Timber for lumber is not so convenient as is desirable. There is, however, a sufficiency of it, which, when improvements are made, willbe more accessible. The timber on the Sierra Nevada, the mostmagnificent in the world, cannot be, at present, available. Theevergreen oak, that grows generally in the valleys, is not valuable, except for fuel. But in the _canadas_ of the hills, and at severalplaces on the coast, particularly at Santa Cruz and Bodega, there is anamount of pine and fir, adapted for lumber, that will not be consumedfor a long time. 

The religion of the Californians is the Roman Catholic, and, like thepeople of all Roman Catholic countries, they appear to be devotedlyattached to the forms of their religion. That there are some, I willnot say how many, paganish grafts upon the laws, formalities, andceremonies, as prescribed by the "Holy Church Universal" for itsgovernment and observance, is undeniable, but these probably do notmaterially affect the system. The females, I noticed, were nearly alldevoutly attached to their religious institutions. I have seen, onfestival or saint days, the entire floor of a church occupied by piouswomen, with their children, kneeling in devout worship, and chantingwith much fervency some dismal hymn appertaining to the service. Thereare but few of the Jesuit fathers who established the missions nowremaining in the country. The services are performed at several of thechurches that I visited, by native Indians, educated by the _padres_previous to their expulsion by the Mexican government. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

OFFICIAL REPORT ON THE GOLD MINES. 

The following is an official account of a visit paid to the gold regionin July by Colonel Mason, who had been appointed to the militarycommand in California, and made his report to the authorities atWashington. It is dated from head-quarters at Monterey, August 17, 1848. 

"Sir, --I have the honour to inform you that, accompanied by Lieut. W. T. Sherman, 3rd Artillery, A. A. A. General, I started on the 12th of Junelast to make a tour through the northern part of California. We reachedSan Francisco on the 20th, and found that all, or nearly all, its maleinhabitants had gone to the mines. The town, which a few months beforewas so busy and thriving, was then almost deserted. Along the wholeroute mills were lying idle, fields of wheat were open to cattle andhorses, houses vacant, and farms going to waste. 

"On the 5th we arrived in the neighbourhood of the mines, and proceededtwenty-five miles up the American Fork, to a point on it now known asthe Lower Mines, or Mormon Diggings. The hill sides were thickly strewnwith canvas tents and bush-harbours; a store was erected, and severalboarding shanties in operation. The day was intensely hot, yet about200 men were at work in the full glare of the sun, washing forgold--some with tin pans, some with close woven Indian baskets, but thegreater part had a rude machine known as the cradle. This is onrockers, six or eight feet long, open at the foot, and its head had acoarse grate, or sieve; the bottom is rounded, with small cleets nailedacross. Four men are required to work this machine; one digs the groundin the bank close by the stream; another carries it to the cradle, andempties it on the grate; a third gives a violent rocking motion to themachine, whilst a fourth dashes on water from the stream itself. Thesieve keeps the coarse stones from entering the cradle, the current ofwater washes off the earthy matter, and the gravel is gradually carriedout at the foot of the machine, leaving the gold mixed with a heavyfine black sand above the first cleets. The sand and gold mixedtogether are then drawn off through auger holes into a pan below, aredried in the sun, and afterwards separated by blowing off the sand. Aparty of four men, thus employed at the Lower Mines, average 100dollars a-day. The Indians, and those who have nothing but pans orwillow baskets, gradually wash out the earth, and separate the gravelby hand, leaving nothing but the gold mixed with sand, which isseparated in the manner before described. The gold in the Lower Minesis in fine bright scales, of which I send several specimens. 

"As we ascended the south branch of the American fork, the countrybecame more broken and mountainous, and twenty-five miles below thelower washings the hills rise to about 1000 feet above the level of theSacramento Plain. Here a species of pine occurs, which led to thediscovery of the gold. Captain Sutter, feeling the great want oflumber, contracted in September last with a Mr. Marshall to build asaw-mill at that place. It was erected in the course of the past winterand spring--a dam and race constructed; but when the water was let onthe wheel, the tail race was found to be too narrow to permit the waterto escape with sufficient rapidity. Mr. Marshall, to save labour, letthe water directly into the race with a strong current, so as to washit wider and deeper. He effected his purpose, and a large bed of mudand gravel was carried to the foot of the race. One day Mr. Marshall, as he was walking down the race to this deposit of mud, observed someglittering particles at its upper edge; he gathered a few, examinedthem, and became satisfied of their value. He then went to the fort, told Captain Sutter of his discovery, and they agreed to keep it secretuntil a certain grist-mill of Sutter's was finished. It, however, gotout and spread like magic. Remarkable success attended the labours ofthe first explorers, and, in a few weeks, hundreds of men were drawnthither. At the time of my visit, but little more than three monthsafter its first discovery, it was estimated that upwards of fourthousand people were employed. At the mill there is a fine deposit orbank of gravel, which the people respect as the property of CaptainSutter, though he pretends to no right to it, and would be perfectlysatisfied with the simple promise of a pre-emption on account of themill which he has built there at a considerable cost. Mr. Marshall wasliving near the mill, and informed me that many persons were employedabove and below him; that they used the same machines as at the lowerwashings, and that their success was about the same--ranging from oneto three ounces of gold per man daily. This gold, too, is in scales alittle coarser than those of the lower mines. From the mill Mr. Marshall guided me up the mountain on the opposite or north bank of thesouth fork, where in the bed of small streams or ravines, now dry, agreat deal of coarse gold has been found. I there saw several partiesat work, all of whom were doing very well; a great many specimens wereshown me, some as heavy as four or five ounces in weight; and I sendthree pieces, labelled No. 5, presented by a Mr. Spence. You willperceive that some of the specimens accompanying this hold mechanicallypieces of quartz--that the surface is rough, and evidently moulded inthe crevice of a rock. This gold cannot have been carried far by water, but must have remained near where it was first deposited from the rockthat once bound it. I inquired of many if they had encountered themetal in its matrix, but in every instance they said they had not; butthat the gold was invariably mixed with wash-gravel, or lodged in thecrevices of other rocks. All bore testimony that they had found gold ingreater or less quantities in the numerous small gullies or ravinesthat occur in that mountainous region. On the 7th of July I left themill, and crossed to a small stream emptying into the American fork, three or four miles below the saw-mill. I struck the stream (now knownas Weber's Creek) at the washings of Sunol and Company. They had aboutthirty Indians employed, whom they pay in merchandise. They weregetting gold of a character similar to that found in the main fork, anddoubtless in sufficient quantities to satisfy them. I send you a smallspecimen, presented by this Company, of their gold. From this point weproceeded up the stream about eight miles, where we found a great manypeople and Indians, some engaged in the bed of the stream, and othersin the small side valleys that put into it. These latter areexceedingly rich, two ounces being considered an ordinary yield for aday's work. A small gutter, not more than 100 yards long by four feetwide, and two or three deep, was pointed out to me as the one where twomen (W. Daly and Percy McCoon) had a short time before obtained. 17, 000dollars' worth of gold. Captain Weber informed me, that he knew thatthese two men had employed four white men and about 100 Indians, andthat, at the end of one week's work, they paid off their party, and hadleft 10, 000 dollars' worth of this gold. Another small ravine was shownme, from which had been taken upwards of 12, 000 dollars' worth of gold. Hundreds of similar ravines, to all appearances, are as yet untouched. I could not have credited these reports had I not seen, in theabundance of the precious metal, evidence of their truth. Mr. Neligh, an agent of Commodore Stockton, had been at work about three weeks inthe neighbourhood, and showed me, in bags and bottles, 2000 dollars'worth of gold; and Mr. Lyman, a gentleman of education, and worthy ofevery credit, said he had been engaged with four others, with amachine, on the American fork, just below Sutter's Mill, that theyworked eight days, and that his share was at the rate of fifty dollarsa-day, but hearing that others were doing better at Weber's Place, theyhad removed there, and were then on the point of resuming operations. 

"The country on either side of Weber's Creek is much broken up byhills, and is intersected in every direction by small streams orravines which contain more or less gold. Those that have been workedare barely scratched, and, although thousands of ounces have beencarried away, I do not consider that a serious impression has been madeupon the whole. Every day was developing new and richer deposits; andthe only impression seemed to be, that the metal would be found in suchabundance as seriously to depreciate in value. 

"On the 8th July I returned to the lower mines, and eventually toMonterey, where I arrived on the 17th of July. Before leaving Sutter's, I satisfied myself that gold existed in the bed of the Feather River, in the Yubah and Bear, and in many of the small streams that liebetween the latter and the American fork; also, that it had been foundin the Consummes, to the south of the American fork. In each of thesestreams the gold is found in small scales, whereas in the interveningmountains it occurs in coarser lumps. 

"Mr. Sinclair, whose rancho is three miles above Sutter's on the northside of the American, employs about fifty Indians on the north fork, not far from its junction with the main stream. He had been engagedabout five weeks when I saw him, and up to that time his Indians hadused simply closely-woven willow baskets. His net proceeds (which Isaw) were about 16, 000 dollars' worth of gold. He showed me theproceeds of his last week's work--14 lbs. Avoirdupois of clean-washedgold. 

"The principal store at Sutter's fort, that of Brannan and Co. , hadreceived in payment for goods 36, 000 dollars' worth of this gold fromthe 1st of May to the 10th of July. Other merchants had also madeextensive sales. Large quantities of goods were daily sent forward tothe mines, as the Indians, heretofore so poor and degraded, havesuddenly become consumers of the luxuries of life. I before mentionedthat the greater part of the farmers and rancheros had abandoned theirfields to go to the mines. This is not the case with Captain Sutter, who was carefully gathering his wheat, estimated at 40, 000 bushels. Flour is already worth, at Sutter's, 36 dollars a-barrel, and will soonbe 50. Unless large quantities of breadstuffs reach the country muchsuffering will occur; but as each man is now able to pay a large price, it is believed the merchants will bring from Chili and the Oregon aplentiful supply for the coming winter. 

"The most moderate estimate I could obtain from men acquainted with thesubject was, that upwards of 4, 000 men were working in the golddistrict, of whom more than one-half were Indians, and that from 30, 000to 50, 000 dollars' worth of gold, if not more, were daily obtained. Theentire gold district, with very few exceptions of grants made someyears ago by the Mexican authorities, is on land belonging to theUnited States. It was a matter of serious reflection to me, how I couldsecure to the Government certain rents or fees for the privilege ofsecuring this gold; but upon considering the large extent of country, the character of the people engaged, and the small scattered force atmy command, I resolved not to interfere, but permit all to work freely, unless broils and crimes should call for interference. 

"The discovery of these vast deposits of gold has entirely changed thecharacter of Upper California. Its people, before engaged incultivating their small patches of ground, and guarding their herds ofcattle and horses, have all gone to the mines, or are on their waythither. Labourers of every trade have left their work-benches, andtradesmen their shops; sailors desert their ships as fast as theyarrive on the coast; and several vessels have gone to sea with hardlyenough hands to spread a sail. Two or three are now at anchor in SanFrancisco, with no crew on board. Many desertions, too, have takenplace from the garrisons within the influence of these mines;twenty-six soldiers have deserted from the post of Sonoma, twenty-fourfrom that of San Francisco, and twenty-four from Monterey. I have nohesitation now in saying, that there is more gold in the countrydrained by the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers than will pay the costof the present war with Mexico a hundred times over. No capital isrequired to obtain this gold, as the labouring man wants nothing buthis pick and shovel and tin pan, with which to dig and wash the gravel, and many frequently pick gold out of the crevices of rocks with theirknives, in pieces of from one to six ounces. 

"Gold is also believed to exist on the eastern slope of the SierraNevada; and, when at the mines, I was informed by an intelligent Mormonthat it had been found near the Great Salt Lake by some of hisfraternity. Nearly all the Mormons are leaving California to go to theSalt Lake; and this they surely would not do unless they were sure offinding gold there, in the same abundance as they now do on theSacramento. 

"I have the honour to be, "Your most obedient Servant, "R. B. MASON, Colonel 1st Dragoons, commanding. 

"Brigadier-General R. Jones, Adjutant-General, U. S. A. , Washington, D. C. "

CHAPTER XVII. 

 Rate of Wages Mode of procuring the Gold Extent of Gold Region Price of Provisions. 

It will be seen, from the later accounts that each new report continuesto realize the wildest expectation. The following letter datedMonterey, November 16th, is highly interesting--

"We can now call ourselves citizens of the United States. We have nowonly to go by law, as we formerly went by custom; that is, whenCongress gives us a government and code. The old foreign residents ofCalifornia, having done very well ten or twenty years without law, carebut very little whether Congress pays early or late attention to thesubject. Those who have emigrated from the Atlantic States within thelast three or four years deem the subject an important one; I only callit difficult. The carrying out a code of laws, under existingcircumstances, is far from being an easy task. The general Governmentmay appoint governors, secretaries, and other public functionaries; andjudges, marshals, collectors, etc. , may accept offices with salaries of3000 or 4000 dollars per annum; but how they are to obtain their pettyofficers, at half these sums, remains to be seen. The pay of a memberof Congress will be accepted here by those alone who do not know enoughto better themselves. Mechanics can now get 10 to 16 dollars per day;labourers on the wharfs or elsewhere, 5 to 10 dollars; clerks andstorekeepers, 1000 to 3000 dollars per annum--some engage to keep storeduring their pleasure at 8 dollars per day, or 1 lb. Or 1-1/2 lb. Ofgold per month; cooks and stewards, 60 to 100 dollars per month. Infact, labour of every description commands exorbitant prices. 

"The Sandwich Islands, Oregon, and Lower California are fast partingwith their inhabitants, all bound for this coast, and thence to thegreat 'placer' of the Sacramento Valley, where the digging and washingof one man that does not produce 100 troy ounces of gold, 23 carats, from the size of a half spangle to one pound in a month, sets thedigger to 'prospecting, ' that is, looking for better grounds. Your'Paisano' can point out many a man who has, for fifteen to twenty daysin succession, bagged up five to ten ounces of gold a-day. Our placer, or gold region, now extends over 300 or 400 miles of country, embracingall the creeks and branches on the east side of the river Sacramentoand one side of the San Joaquin. In my travels I have, when restingunder a tree and grazing my horse, seen pieces of pure gold taken fromcrevices of the rocks or slate where we were stopping. On one occasion, nooning or refreshing on the side of a stream entirely unknown todiggers or 'prospectors, ' or rather, if known not attended to, one ofmy companions, while rolling in the sand, said, 'Give me a tin pan; whyshould we not be cooking in gold sand?' He took a pan, filled it withsand, washed it out, and produced in five minutes two or three dollars'worth of gold, merely saying, as he threw both pan and gold on thesand, 'I thought so. ' Perhaps it is fair that your readers shouldlearn, that, however plenty the Sacramento Valley may afford gold, theobtaining of it has its disadvantages. From the 1st of July to the 1stof October, more or less, one half of the people will have fever andague, or intermittent fever. In the winter, it is too cold to work inthe water. Some work in the sand by washing from the surface in awooden bowl, or tin pan; some gouge it out from the rocks or slate; themore lazy ones roll about and pick up the large pieces, leaving thesmall gold for the next emigration. The extent of the gold region onthe San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers extends a distance of 800 milesin length by 100 in width. It embraces not only gold, but quantities ofquicksilver in almost general abundance. It is estimated that a smallpopulation actively engaged in mining operations in that region couldexport 100, 000, 000 dollars in gold in every year, and that an increasedpopulation might increase that amount to 300, 000, 000 dollars annually. You may believe me when I say that for some time to come Californiawill export, yearly, nearly or quite 500, 000 ounces of gold, 22 to 24carats fine; some pieces of that will weigh 16 lbs. , very many 1 lb. Many men who began last June to dig gold with a capital of 50 dollarscan now show 5000 to 15, 000 dollars. I saw a man to-day makingpurchases of dry goods, etc. , for his family, lay on the counter a bagof raw hide, well sewed up, containing 109 ounces. I observed, 'That isa good way to pack gold dust. ' He very innocently replied, 'All thebags I brought down are that way; I like the size!' Five such bags inNew York would bring nearly 10, 000 dollars. This man left his familylast August. Three months' digging and washing, producing four or fivebags, of 100 ounces each, is better than being mate of a vessel at 40dollars per month, as the man formerly was. His companion, a Mexican, who camped and worked with him, only had two or three cow-hide bags ofgold. In this tough, but true, golden tale, you must not imagine thatall men are equally successful. There are some who have done better, even to 4000 dollars in a month; many 1000 dollars during the summer;and others, who refused to join a company of gold-washers who had acheap-made machine, and receive one ounce per day, that returned to thesettlement with not a vest pocket-full of gold. Some left with onlysufficient to pay for a horse and saddle, and pay the physician sixounces of gold for one ounce of quinine, calomel, and jalap inproportion. An ounce of gold for advice given, six ounces a visit, brings the fever and ague to be rather an expensive companion. A 'well'man has his proportionate heavy expenses also, to reduce his piles orbags of gold. Dry beef in the settlements, at 4 cents per lb. , at thePlacer, 1 to 2 dollars per lb. ; salt beef and pork, 50 to 100 dollarsper barrel; flour, 30 to 75 dollars per barrel; coffee, sugar, andrice, 50 cents to 1 dollar per lb. As washing is 50 cents to 1 dollar agarment, many prefer throwing away their used-up clothes to paying thewasherwoman; that is, if they intend returning to the settlements soon, where they can purchase more. As to shaving, I have never seen a man atthe Placer who had time to perform that operation. They do not work onSundays, only brush up the tent, blow out the emery or fine black sandfrom the week's work. Horses that can travel only one day, and fromthat to a week, are from 100 to 300 dollars. Freight charge by launchowners for three days' run, 5 dollars per barrel. Wagoners charge 50 to100 dollars per load, 20 to 50 miles, on good road. Corn, barley, peas, and beans, 10 dollars a-bushel. Common pistols, any price; powder andlead very dear. I know a physician who, in San Francisco, purchased acommon made gold-washer at 20 or 30 dollars, made of 70 or 80 feet ofboards. At a great expense he boated it up to the first landing on theSacramento, and there met a wagoner bound to one of the diggings withan empty wagon, distant about 50 miles. The wagoner would not take upthe machine under 100 dollars. The doctor had to consent, and bided histime. June passed over, rich in gold; all on that creek did wonders, when the wagoner fell sick, called on his friend the doctor, whose tentwas in sight; the doctor came, but would not administer the first doseunder the old sum of 100 dollars, which was agreed to, under a provisothat the following doses should be furnished more moderate. When aman's time is worth 100 dollars a-day, to use a spade and tin pan, neither doctors nor wagoners can think much of a pound of gold, and youmay suppose merchants, traders, and pedlars are not slow to make theirfortunes in these golden times. In San Francisco there is moremerchandize sold now, monthly, than before in a year. Vessels aftervessels arrive, land their cargoes, dispose of them, and bag up thedust and lay up the vessel, as the crew are soon among the missing. Thecleanest clear out is where the captain follows the crew. There aremany vessels in San Francisco that cannot weigh anchor, even with theassistance of three or four neighbouring vessels. Supercargoes mustland cargo on arriving, or have no crew to do it for them. Some vesselscontinue to go to sea, with small crews, at 50 dollars per month forgreen hands. Old hands are too wise for them, and prefer digging anounce or two a-day, and drinking hock and champagne at half an ouncea-bottle, and eating bad sea bread at 1 dollar per pound. I have seen acaptain of a vessel, who, by his old contract in the port whence hesailed, was getting 60 dollars per month, paying his cook 75 dollars, and offering 100 dollars per month for a steward; his former crew, evento his mates, having gone a 'prospecting. ' Uncle Sam's ships suffer alittle the same way, although they offer from 200 to 500 dollars forthe apprehension of a deserter. The Ohio, however, laid in the port ofMonterey about a month, and lost only 20 or 30 men. Colonel Stevenson'sregiment is disbanded, 99 out of 100 of whom have also gone 'prospecting, 'including the colonel, who arrived in Monterey last month, from hislast post, and was met by his men at the edge of the town, to escortand cheer him into the town. The captains, etc. , have bought upcountry carts and oxen, turned drivers, and gone to the Placer. Ourworthy governor, Colonel of the 1st Dragoons, etc. , having plenty ofcarts, wagons, horses, and mules, with a few regulars left, has alsogone, but under better advantages, for the second or third time, to seethe Placer and the country, and have justice done to his countrymen orhimself. Commodore Jones, lately arrived in Monterey, supposed it to bethe capital, head-quarters, etc. , but found not even the Governor left. Where head-quarters are may be uncertain, whether in Monterey, Sutter'sFort, or in a four-mule wagon travelling over the gold region. Now, whether headquarters are freighted with munitions of war, etc. , orwhether the cargo consists of blankets, shirts, etc. , to clothe thesuffering Indians, for the paltry consideration of gold, no one caresor knows; but the principle should be, that, if privates can or will beoff making their thousands, those who are better able should not gogoldless. "

The _Washington Union_ contains a letter from Lieutenant Larkin, datedMonterey, November 16, received at the State Department, containingfurther confirmation of the previous despatches, public and private, and far outstripping all other news in its exciting character. The goldwas increasing in size and quality daily. Lumps were found weighingfrom one to two pounds. Several had been heard of weighing as high as16 pounds, and one 25 pounds. Many men, who were poor in June, wereworth 30, 000 dollars, by digging and trading with the Indians. 100dollars a-day is the average amount realized daily, from July toOctober. Half the diggers were sick with fevers, though not many deathshad occurred among them. The Indians would readily give an ounce ofgold for a common calico shirt; others were selling for ten dollarseach in specie. The gold region extends over a track of 300 miles, andit was not known that it did not extend 1000. A letter from CommodoreJones states that many of the petty officers and men had deserted andgone in search of the gold. He adds, the Indians were selling gold at50 cents the ounce. Many vessels were deserted by captain, cook, andseamen. The ship _Isaac Walton_ offered discharged soldiers 50 dollarsper month to go to Callao, which was refused. She was supplied bygovernment sailors. All the naval vessels on the coast were short ofhands. Nearly the whole of the 3rd Artillery had deserted. Provisionswere scarce and high; board, 4 dollars a-day; washing, 6 dollarsa-dozen. Merchants' clerks get from 2000 to 3000 dollars a-year. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

 Route by land Outfit, etc. , and advice to intending Emigrants. 

The route via Independence or St. Joseph, Mo. , to Fort Laramie, SouthPass, Fort Hall, the Sink of Mary's River, etc. , etc. , the _old_ route. Let no emigrant, carrying his family with him, deviate from it, orimagine that he can find a better road. This road is the best that hasyet been discovered, and to the Bay of San Francisco and the GoldRegion it is much the shortest. The Indians, moreover, on this route, have, up to the present time, been so friendly as to commit no acts ofhostility on the emigrants. The trail is plain and good where there areno physical obstructions, and the emigrant, by taking this route, willcertainly reach his destination in good season and without disaster. From our information we would most earnestly advise all emigrants totake this trail, without deviation, if they would avoid the fatalcalamities which almost invariably have attended those who haveundertaken to explore new routes. 

The lightest wagon that can be constructed, of sufficient strength tocarry 2500 pounds' weight, is the vehicle most desirable. No wagonshould be loaded over this weight, or if it is, it will be certain tostall in the muddy sloughs and crossings on the prairie in the firstpart of the journey. This wagon can be hauled by three or four yokes ofoxen or six mules. Oxen are usually employed by the emigrants forhauling their wagons. They travel about 15 miles per day, and, allthings considered, are perhaps equal to mules for this service, although they cannot travel so fast. They are, however, less expensive, and there is not so much danger of their straying and of being stolenby the Indians. 

Pack-mules can only be employed by parties of men. It would be verydifficult to transport a party of women and children on pack-mules, with the provisions, clothing, and other baggage necessary to theircomfort. A party of men, however, with pack-mules, can make the journeyin less time by one month than it can be done in wagons--carrying withthem, however, nothing more than their provisions, clothing, andammunition. 

For parties of _men_ going out, it would be well to haul their wagons, provisions, etc. , as far as Fort Laramie, or Fort Hall, by mules, carrying with them pack-saddles and _alforjases_, or large saddle-bags, adapted to the pack-saddle, with ropes for packing, etc. , when, if theysaw proper, they could dispose of their wagons for Indian ponies, andpack into California, gaining perhaps two or three weeks' time. 

The provisions actually necessary per man are as follows:--

 150 lbs. Of flour. 150 do. Bacon. 25 do. Coffee. 30 do. Sugar. 

Added to these, the main items, there should be a small quantity ofrice, 50 or 75 lbs. Of crackers, dried peaches, etc. , and a keg oflard, with salt, pepper, etc. , and such other luxuries of light weightas the person outfitting chooses to purchase. He will think of thembefore he starts. 

Every man should be provided with a good rifle, and, if convenient, with a pair of pistols, five pounds of powder, and ten pounds of lead. A revolving belt-pistol may be found useful. 

With the wagon, there should be carried such carpenter's tools as ahand-saw, auger, gimlet, chisel, shaving-knife, etc. , an axe, hammer, and hatchet. This last weapon every man should have in his belt, with ahunter's or a bowie-knife. 

From Independence to the first settlement in California, which is nearthe _gold region_, it is about 2050 miles--to San Francisco, 2290miles. 

The accounts that have been received and published in regard to thewealth and productiveness of the gold mines, and other mines inCalifornia, are undoubtedly true. They are derived from the mostauthentic and reliable sources, and from individuals whose veracity maybe undoubtingly believed. 

When a young man arrives there, he must turn his attention to whateverseems to promise the largest recompense for his labour. It isimpossible in the new state of things produced by the late discoveries, and the influx of population, to foresee what this might be. Thecountry is rich in agricultural resources, as well as in the preciousmetals, and, with proper enterprise and industry, he could scarcelyfail to do well. 

Families, as well as parties going out, should carry with them goodtents, to be used after their arrival as houses. The influx ofpopulation will probably be so great that it will be difficult, if notimpossible, to obtain other shelter for some time after their arrival. The climate of the country, however, even in winter, is so mild that, with good tents, comfort is attainable. They should be careful, also, to carry as much _subsistence_ into the country as they can; as whatthey purchase there, after their arrival, they will be compelled to paya high price for. 

The shortest route to California is unquestionably by the West IndiaMail Packets, which leave Southampton on the 17th of every month. Thepoint to which they take passengers is Chagres. This voyage is usuallyaccomplished in about 22 to 26 days. From thence passengers proceedacross the Isthmus, a distance of about 52 miles (say three or fourdays' journey) to Panama, and thence 3500 miles by sea in the Pacificto St. Francisco. From the vast number of eager emigrants that it isexpected will assemble at Panama, it is very probable that great delaywill be occasioned from there not being sufficient number of vessels toconvey them to their destination. Unless such adventurers areabundantly supplied with money, they will not be able to live in thehot desolation of the tropics, where life is but little valued, andwhere death is even less regarded. The entire route by sea (round CapeHorn) cannot be less than 18, 500 miles, and generally occupies fromfive to six months, yet this route is much cheaper, safer, and in theend (from the delay that will occur at Panama) quite as _short_. Thisroute, particularly to parties from England, is universally allowed tobe the best many, dangers and difficulties that attend the route acrossthe Isthmus of Panama (not noticing the probable delay) will beavoided, and many a one will bitterly regret that he was ever inducedto attempt (as he perceives ship after ship sailing gallantly on tothese favoured regions) what he considered a shorter route, from thewant of the means of transit, while he is himself compelled idly towaste his time, a prey to pestilence and to the "hope deferred thatmaketh the heart sick. "

APPENDIX. 

The following are letters addressed to the Government at Washington, and other communications, all of which, it will be seen, are fullyconfirmatory of the accounts given in the preceding pages; with otherdetails of interest relative to the state of the gold districts:

_Extract from a Letter from Mr. Larkin, United States Consul atMonterey, to Mr. Buchanan, Secretary of State at Washington. _

"San Francisco (Upper California), June 1, 1848. 

"Sir: * * * I have to report to the State Department one of the mostastonishing excitements and state of affairs now existing in thiscountry, that, perhaps, has ever been brought to the notice of theGovernment. On the American fork of the Sacramento and Feather River, another branch of the same, and the adjoining lands, there has beenwithin the present year discovered a placer, a vast tract of landcontaining gold, in small particles. This gold, thus far, has beentaken on the bank of the river, from the surface to eighteen inches indepth, and is supposed deeper, and to extend over the country. 

"On account of the inconvenience of washing, the people have, up tothis time, only gathered the metal on the banks, which is done simplywith a shovel, filling a shallow dish, bowl, basket, or tin pan, with aquantity of black sand, similar to the class used on paper, and washingout the sand by movement of the vessel. It is now two or three weekssince the men employed in those washings have appeared in this townwith gold, to exchange for merchandise and provisions. I presume nearly20, 000 dollars of this gold has as yet been so exchanged. Some 200 or300 men have remained up the river, or are gone to their homes, for thepurpose of returning to the Placer, and washing immediately withshovels, picks, and baskets; many of them, for the first few weeks, depending on borrowing from others. I have seen the written statementof the work of one man for sixteen days, which averaged 25 dollars perday; others have, with a shovel and pan, or wooden bowl, washed out 10dollars to even 50 dollars in a day. There are now some men yet washingwho have 500 dollars to 1, 000 dollars. As they have to stand two feetdeep in the river, they work but a few hours in the day, and not everyday in the week. 

"A few men have been down in boats to this port, spending twenty tothirty ounces of gold each--about 300 dollars. I am confident that thistown (San Francisco) has one-half of its tenements empty, locked upwith the furniture. The owners--storekeepers, lawyers, mechanics, andlabourers--all gone to the Sacramento with their families. Smallparties, of five to fifteen men, have sent to this town and offeredcooks ten to fifteen dollars per day for a few weeks. Mechanics andteamsters, earning the year past five to eight dollars per day, havestruck and gone. Several U. S. Volunteers have deserted. U. S. BarqueAnita, belonging to the Army, now at anchor here, has but six men. OneSandwich Island vessel in port lost all her men; and was obliged toengaged another crew at 50 dollars for the run of fifteen days to theIslands. 

"One American captain having his men shipped on this coast in such amanner that they could leave at any time, had them all on the eve ofquitting, when he agreed to continue their pay and food; leaving one onboard, he took a boat and carried them to the gold regions--furnishingtools and giving his men one-third. They have been gone a week. Commonspades and shovels, one month ago worth 1 dollar, will now bring 10dollars, at the gold regions. I am informed 50 dollars has been offeredfor one. Should this gold continue as represented, this town and otherswould be depopulated. Clerks' wages have risen from 600 dollars to 1000per annum, and board; cooks, 25 dollars to 30 dollars per month. Thissum will not be any inducement a month longer, unless the fever andague appears among the washers. The _Californian_, printed here, stopped this week. The _Star_ newspaper office, where the new laws ofGovernor Mason, for this country, are printing, has but one man left. Amerchant, lately from China, has even lost his China servants. Shouldthe excitement continue through the year, and the whale-ships visit SanFrancisco, I think they will lose most all their crews. How Col. Masoncan retain his men, unless he puts a force on the spot, I know not. 

"I have seen several pounds of this gold, and consider it very pure, worth in New York 17 dollars to 18 dollars per ounce; 14 dollars to 16dollars, in merchandise, is paid for it here. What good or bad effectthis gold mania will have on California, I cannot foretell. It may endthis year; but I am informed that it will continue many years. Mechanics now in this town are only wailing to finish some rudemachinery, to enable them to obtain the gold more expeditiously, andfree from working in the river. Up to this time, but few Californianshave gone to the mines, being afraid the Americans will soon havetrouble among themselves, and cause disturbance to all around. I haveseen some of the black sand, as taken from the bottom of the river (Ishould think in the States it would bring 25 to 50 cents per pound), containing many pieces of gold; they are from the size of the head of apin to the weight of the eighth of an ounce. I have seen some weighingone-quarter of an ounce (4 dollars). Although my statements are almostincredible, I believe I am within the statements believed by every onehere. Ten days back, the excitement had not reached Monterey. I shall, within a few days, visit this gold mine, and will make another reportto you. Inclosed you will have a specimen. 

"I have the honour to be, very respectfully, "THOMAS O. LARKIN. 

"P. S. This placer, or gold region, is situated on public land. "

"_Mr. Larkin to Mr. Buchanan. _

"Monterey, California, June 28, 1848. 

"SIR: My last dispatch to the State Department was written in SanFrancisco, the 1st of this month. In that I had the honour to give someinformation respecting the new 'placer, ' or gold regions latelydiscovered on the branches of the Sacramento River. Since the writingof that dispatch I have visited a part of the gold region, and found itall I had heard, and much more than I anticipated. The part that Ivisited was upon a fork of the American River, a branch of theSacramento, joining the main river at Sutter's Fort. The place in whichI found the people digging was about twenty-five miles from the fort byland. 

"I have reason to believe that gold will be found on many branches ofthe Sacramento and the Joaquin rivers. People are already scatteredover one hundred miles of land, and it is supposed that the 'placer'extends from river to river. At present the workmen are employed withinten or twenty yards of the river, that they may be convenient to water. On Feather river there are several branches upon which the people aredigging for gold. This is two or three days' ride from the place Ivisited. 

"At my camping place I found, on a surface of two or three miles on thebanks of the river, some fifty tents, mostly owned by Americans. Thesehad their families. There are no Californians who have taken theirfamilies as yet to the gold regions; but few or none will ever do it;some from New Mexico may do so next year, but no Californians. 

"I was two nights at a tent occupied by eight Americans, viz. , twosailors, one clerk, two carpenters, and three daily workmen. These menwere in company; had two machines, each made from one hundred feet ofboards (worth there 150 dollars, in Monterey 15 dollars--being oneday's work), made similar to a child's cradle, ten feet long, withoutthe ends. 

"The two evenings I saw these eight men bring to their tents the labourof the day. I suppose they made each 50 dollars per day; their owncalculation was two pounds of gold a-day--four ounces to a man--64dollars. I saw two brothers that worked together, and only worked bywashing the dirt in a tin pan, weigh the gold they obtained in one day;the result was 7 dollars to one, 82 dollars to the other. There weretwo reasons for this difference; one man worked less hours than theother, and by chance had ground less impregnated with gold. I give thisstatement as an extreme case. During my visit I was an interpreter fora native of Monterey, who was purchasing a machine or canoe. I firsttried to purchase boards and hire a carpenter for him. There were but afew hundred feet of boards to be had; for these the owner asked me 50dollars per hundred (500 dollars per thousand), and a carpenter washinggold dust demanded 50 dollars per day for working. I at last purchaseda log dug out, with a riddle and sieve made of willow boughs on it, for120 dollars, payable in gold dust at 14 dollars per ounce. The ownerexcused himself for the price, by saying he was two days making it, andeven then demanded the use of it until sunset. My Californian has toldme since, that himself, partner, and two Indians, obtained with thiscanoe eight ounces the first and five ounces the second day. 

"I am of the opinion that on the American fork, Feather River, andCopimes River, there are near two thousand people, nine-tenths of themforeigners. Perhaps there are one hundred families, who have theirteams, wagons, and tents. Many persons are waiting to see whether themonths of July and August will be sickly, before they leave theirpresent business to go to the 'Placer. ' The discovery of this gold wasmade by some Mormons, in January or February, who for a time kept it asecret; the majority of those who are working there began in May. Inmost every instance the men, after digging a few days, have beencompelled to leave for the purpose of returning home to see theirfamilies, arrange their business, and purchase provisions. I feelconfident in saying there are fifty men in this 'Placer' who have on anaverage 1, 000 dollars each, obtained in May and June. I have not metwith any person who had been fully employed in washing gold one month;most, however, appear to have averaged an ounce per day. I think theremust, by this time, be over 1, 000 men at work upon the differentbranches of the Sacramento; putting their gains at 10, 000 dollars perday, for six days in the week, appears to me not overrated. 

"Should this news reach the emigration of California and Oregon, now onthe road, connected with the Indian wars, now impoverishing the lattercountry, we should have a large addition to our population; and shouldthe richness of the gold region continue, our emigration in 1849 willbe many thousands, and in 1850 still more. If our countrymen inCalifornia, as clerks, mechanics, and workmen, will forsake employmentat from 2 dollars to 6 dollars per day, how many more of the same classin the Atlantic States, earning much less, will leave for this countryunder such prospects? It is the opinion of many who have visited thegold regions the past and present months, that the ground will affordgold for many years, perhaps for a century. From my own examination ofthe rivers and their banks, I am of opinion that, at least for a fewyears, the golden products will equal the present year. However, asneither men of science, nor the labourers now at work, have made anyexplorations of consequence, it is a matter of impossibility to giveany opinion as to the extent and richness of this part of California. Every Mexican who has seen the place says throughout their Republicthere has never been any 'placer like this one. '

"Could Mr. Polk and yourself see California as we now see it, you wouldthink that a few thousand people, on 100 miles square of the Sacramentovalley, would yearly turn out of this river the whole price our countrypays for the acquired territory. When I finished my first letter Idoubted my own writing, and, to be better satisfied, showed it to oneof the principal merchants of San Francisco, and to Captain Fulsom, ofthe Quartermaster's Department, who decided at once I was far below thereality. You certainly will suppose, from my two letters, that I am, like others, led away by the excitement of the day. I think I am not. In my last I inclosed a small sample of the gold dust, and I find myonly error was in putting a value to the sand. At that time I was notaware how the gold was found; I now can describe the mode of collectingit. 

"A person without a machine, after digging off one or two feet of theupper ground, near the water (in some cases they take the top earth), throws into a tin pan or wooden bowl a shovel full of loose dirt andstones; then placing the basin an inch or two under water, continues tostir up the dirt with his hand in such a manner that the running waterwill carry off the light earths, occasionally, with his hand, throwingout the stones; after an operation of this kind for twenty or thirtyminutes, a spoonful of small black sand remains; this is on ahandkerchief or cloth dried in the sun, the emerge is blown off, leaving the pure gold. I have the pleasure of inclosing a paper of thissand and gold, which I from a bucket of dirt and stones, inhalf-an-hour, standing at the edge of the water, washed out myself. Thevalue of it may be 2 dollars or 3 dollars. 

"The size of the gold depends in some measure upon the river from whichit is taken; the banks of one river having larger grains of gold thananother. I presume more than one half of the gold put into pans ormachines is washed out and goes down the stream; this is of noconsequence to the washers, who care only for the present time. Somehave formed companies of four or five men, and have a rough-mademachine put together in a day, which worked to much advantage, yet manyprefer to work alone, with a wooden bowl or tin pan, worth fifteen ortwenty cents in the States, but eight to sixteen dollars at the goldregion. As the workmen continue, and materials can be obtained, improvements will take place in the mode of obtaining gold; at presentit is obtained by standing in the water, and with much severe labour, or such as is called here severe labour. 

"How long this gathering of gold by the handful will continue here, orthe future effect it will have on California, I cannot say. Three-fourths of the houses in the town on the bay of San Francisco aredeserted. Houses are sold at the price of the ground lots. The effectsare this week showing themselves in Monterey. Almost every house I hadhired out is given up. Every blacksmith, carpenter, and lawyer isleaving; brick-yards, saw-mills and ranches are left perfectly alone. Alarge number of the volunteers at San Francisco and Sonoma havedeserted; some have been retaken and brought back; public and privatevessels are losing their crews; my clerks have had 100 per cent. Advance offered them on their wages to accept employment. A completerevolution in the ordinary state of affairs is taking place; both ofour newspapers are discontinued from want of workmen and the loss oftheir agencies; the Alcaldes have left San Francisco, and I believeSonoma likewise; the former place has not a Justice of the Peace left. 

"The second Alcalde of Monterey to-day joins the keepers of ourprincipal hotel, who have closed their office and house, and will leaveto-morrow for the golden rivers. I saw on the ground a lawyer who waslast year Attorney-General of the King of the Sandwich Islands, diggingand washing out his ounce and a half per day; near him can be foundmost all his brethren of the long robe, working in the same occupation. 

"To conclude; my letter is long, but I could not well describe what Ihave seen in less words, and I now can believe that my account may bedoubted. If the affair proves a bubble, a mere excitement, I know nothow we can all be deceived, as we are situated. Governor Mason and hisstaff have left Monterey to visit the place in question, and will, Isuppose, soon forward to his department his views and opinions on thissubject. Most of the land, where gold has been discovered, is publicland; there are on different rivers some private grants. I have threesuch purchased in 1846 and 1847, but have not learned that any privatelands have produced gold, though they may hereafter do so. I have thehonour, dear sir, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, "THOMAS O. LARKIN. "

DESERTION FROM THE SHIPS. --We collate from other sources several otherinteresting letters and documents, and which will be found well worthperusal. 

"Monterey, Sept. 15, 1848. 

"Messrs. Grinnell, Minturn, and Co. :

"Sirs--I embrace this opportunity to inform you of my new situation, which is bad enough. All hands have left me but two; they will staytill the cargo is landed and ballast in, then they will go. Both mateswill leave in a few days, and then I will have only the two boys, and Iam fearful that they will run. I have got all landed but 900 barrels;on Monday I shall get off ballast if the weather is good. There's nohelp to be got at any price. The store-ship that sailed from here tendays ago took three of my men at 100 dollars per month; there isnothing that anchors here but what loses their men. I have had a hardtime in landing the cargo; I go in the boat every load. If I can get iton shore I shall save the freight. As for the ship she will lay herefor a long time, for there's not the least chance of getting a crew. The coasters are giving 100 dollars per month. All the ships at SanFrancisco have stripped and laid up. The Flora, of New London, is atSan Francisco; all left. You probably have heard of the situation ofthings here. A sailor will be up at the mines for two months, work onhis own account, and come down with from two to three thousand dollars, and those that go in parties do much better. I have been offered 20dollars per day to go, by one of the first men here, and work one year. It is impossible for me to give you any idea of the gold that is gothere. Yours respectfully, "CHRISTOPHER ALLEN, Captain of the ship Isaac Walton. "

Another letter dated St. Francisco, September 1st, contains thefollowing:--

"A day or two ago the Flora, Captain Potter, of New London, anchored inWhaleman's Harbour, on the opposite side of the Bay. Yesterday thecaptain, fearing he would lose all his men, weighed anchor, intendingto go to sea. After getting under weigh, the crew, finding the ship washeading out, refused to do duty, and the captain was forced to returnand anchor here. Last night nine of the crew gagged the watch, loweredone of the boats, and rowed off. They have not been heard of since, andare now probably half way to the gold region. The Flora is twenty-sixmonths out, with only 750 bbls. Of oil. Every vessel that comes in herenow is sure to lose her crew, and this state of things must continueuntil the squadron arrives, when, if the men-o'-war-men do not run offtoo, merchant-men may retain their crews. 

"The whale-ship Euphrates, of New Bedford, left here a few weeks since, for the United States, to touch on the coast of Chili to recruit. TheMinerva, Captain Perry, of New Bedford, has abandoned the whalingbusiness, and is now on his way hence to Valparaiso for a cargo ofmerchandise. Although two large ships, four barks, and eight or tenbrigs and schooners have arrived here since my return from the mineralcountry, about four weeks since, with large cargoes of merchandise, their entire invoices have been sold. Vessels are daily arriving fromthe islands and ports upon the coast, laden with goods and passengers, the latter destined for the gold-washings. 

"Much sickness prevails among the gold-diggers; many have left theground sick, and many more have discontinued their labours for thepresent, and gone into more healthy portions of the country, intendingto return after the sickly season has passed. From the best informationI can obtain, there are from two to three thousand persons at work atthe gold-washings with the same success as heretofore. "

THE DIGGINGS. --Extract of a letter from Monterey, Aug. 29. 

"At present the people are running over the country and picking it outof the earth here and there, just as a thousand hogs, let loose in aforest, would root up ground-nuts. Some get eight or ten ounces a-day, and the least active one or two. They make the most who employ the wildIndians to hunt it for them. There is one man who has sixty Indians inhis employ; his profits are a dollar a-minute. The wild Indians knownothing of its value, and wonder what the pale-faces want to do withit; they will give an ounce of it for the same weight of coined silver, or a thimbleful of glass beads, or a glass of grog. And white menthemselves often give an ounce of it, which is worth at our mint 18dollars, or more, for a bottle of brandy, a bottle of soda-powders, ora plug of tobacco. 

"As to the quantity which the diggers get, take a few facts asevidence. I know seven men who worked seven weeks and two days, Sundaysexcepted, on Feather River; they employed on an average fifty Indians, and got out in these seven weeks and two days 275 pounds of pure gold. I know the men, and have seen the gold, and know what they state to bea fact--so stick a pin there. I know ten other men who worked ten daysin company, employed no Indians, and averaged in these ten days 1500dollars each; so stick another pin there. I know another man who gotout of a basin in a rock, not larger than a wash-bowl, two pounds and ahalf of gold in fifteen minutes; so stick another pin there! Not one ofthese statements would I believe, did I not know the men personally, and know them to be plain matter-of-fact men--men who open a vein ofgold just as coolly as you would a potato-hill. "

ASSAY OF THE GOLD. --Lieutenant Loeser having arrived at Washington withspecimens of the gold from the diggings, the following account of itsquality appeared in the "Washington Union, " the government organ:--

"Understanding last evening that the lieutenant had arrived in thiscity, and had deposited in the War Office the precious specimens he hadbrought with him, we called to see them, and to free our mind from allhesitation as to the genuineness of the metal. We had seen doubtsexpressed in some of our exchange papers; and we readily admit that theaccounts so nearly approached the miraculous, that we were relieved bythe evidence of our own senses on the subject. The specimens have allthe appearance of the native gold we had seen from the mines of NorthCarolina and Virginia, and we are informed that the Secretary wouldsend the small chest, called a caddy, containing about 3, 000 dollars'worth of gold, in lumps and scales, to the mint, to be melted intocoins and bars. The specimens have come to Washington as they wereextracted from the materials of the placer. The heaviest piece broughtby Lieutenant Loeser weighs a little more than two ounces; but thevaried contents of the casket (as described in Colonel Mason'sschedule) will be sent off to-day, by special messenger, to the mint atPhiladelphia for assay, and early next week we hope to have thepleasure of laying the result before our readers. " The assay wassubsequently made, and the result officially announced. The gold isdeclared to be from 3 to 8 per cent. Purer than American standard goldcoin. 

ANOTHER ASSAY. --The following is the report of an assay of Californiangold dust, received by Mr. T. O. Larkin, United States consul atMonterey. 

"New York, Dec. 8, 1848. 

"Sir, --I have assayed the portion of gold dust, or metal, fromCalifornia, which you sent me, and the result shows that it is fullyequal to any found in our Southern gold mines. I return you 10-3/4grains out of the 12 which I have tested, the value of which is 45cents. It is 21-1/2 carats fine--within half a carat of the quality ofEnglish sovereigns or American eagles--and is almost ready to go to themint. The finest gold metal we get is from Africa, which is 22-1/2 to23 carats fine. In Virginia we have mines where the quality of the goldis much inferior--some of it so low as 19 carats--and in Georgia themines produce it nearly 22 carats fine. The gold of California, which Ihave now assayed, is fully equal to that of any, and much superior tosome produced from the mines in our Southern States. 

"JOHN WARWICK, Smelter and refiner, 17, John-Street. "

INCONVENIENCES OF TOO MUCH GOLD. --The following letter (January 12)from Captain Fulsom, of the United States Service, writing from SanFrancisco, confirms the fact of the difficulty of procuring servants, or indeed manual assistance of any description:--

"All sorts of labour is got at enormous rates of compensation. Commonclerks and salesmen in the stores about town often receive as high as2500 dollars and their board. The principal waiter in the hotel where Iboard is paid 1700 dollars per year, and several others from 1200 to1500 dollars! I fortunately have an Indian boy, or I should be forcedto clean my own boots, for I could not employ a good body servant forthe full amount of my salary as a government officer. I believe everyarmy officer in California, with one or two exceptions, would haveresigned last summer could they have done it, and been free at once tocommence for themselves. But the war was not then terminated, and noone could hope to communicate with Washington correspondents, to get ananswer in less than six, and perhaps ten, months. For some time lastsummer (August and July) the officers at Monterey were entirely withoutservants; and the governor (Colonel Mason) actually took his turn incooking for his mess. "

EFFECTS OF THIS DISCOVERY ON THE UNITED STATES. --The following remarksupon the influence of this immense discovery, which appeared in apopular New York journal on the 23rd January, proves the extent ofimpression produced upon society in the States by the intelligence ofthis new source of natural wealth:--

"The news (February 12) from California will attract the observation ofthe whole community, A spirit is generated from those discoveries, which is more active, more intense, and more widely spread, than thatwhich agitated Europe in the time of Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro. There seems to be no doubt that, in a short time--probably less thantwo years--those mines can be made to produce 100, 000, 000 dollars peryear. The region is the most extensive of the kind in the world, being800 miles in length, and 100 in width, with every indication that goldexists in large native masses, in the rocks and mountains of the SierraNevada. But these vast gold mines are not the only mineral discoveriesthat have been made. The quicksilver in the same region seems to be asabundant as the gold, so that there are approximated to each other twometals, which will have a most important effect and utility in makingthe gold mines more valuable. Heretofore the gold and silver mines ofMexico and Peru have been valuable to Spain, because she possessed amonopoly of the quicksilver mines at Almaden in the Peninsula. This issurpassed by California. According to the last accounts now given tothe public, emigrants were crowding in from every port in the Pacificto California--from Mexico, Peru, the Sandwich Islands, Oregon; and wehave no doubt by this time the British possessions in the East, China, and everywhere else in that region, are furnishing emigrants to thewonderful regions of California. In less than a year there willprobably be a population of 100, 000 to 200, 000 souls, all digging forgold, and capable of producing from 100, 000, 000 dollars to 300, 000, 000dollars worth per annum of pure gold, to be thrown on the commerce ofthe world at one fell swoop. 

"What is to be the effect of such vast discoveries on the commerce ofthe world--on old communities, on New York, London, and other greatcommercial cities? Such a vast addition to the gold currency of theworld will at once disturb the prices and value of all productions andmerchandise to a similar extent to that which we see in Monterey andSan Francisco. The prices of every commodity will therefore riseextravagantly during the next few years, according to the produce ofgold from that region. Now, in a rising market everything prospers;every one gets rich, civilisation expands, industry increases, and allorders of society are benefited. As soon as the first crop of gold fromCalifornia reaches New York, the impulse which it will give tocommercial enterprise, and the advance in the price of everything whichit will cause, will be tremendous. The bank currency will be expanded, for the basis will be abundant; real estate will increase in value, agricultural productions and agricultural labour will advance at once10, 15, 20, 30, or 40 per cent. , even to as great an extent, perhaps, as was witnessed when the demand came from Ireland for the food of thiscountry to feed the starving Irish. New York and her sister cities willbe the centre of all those revolutionary movements which are certain tospring from the gold productions of California, on the commerce of thewhole civilized world. Ship-building will increase in value, steam-boats will be wanted, the railroads projected across the Isthmusin various places, in Mexico and Central America will be pushed tocompletion, and we should not be surprised to see an active attemptmade, under the auspices of the Federal Government, to construct arailroad across the continent, through the South Pass, from St. Louis, or some other point on the Mississippi, to San Francisco. The discoveryof these great gold mines will no doubt form the agent of the greatestrevolution in the commercial centres of the world and on thecivilisation of the human race that has ever taken place since thefirst dawn of history. New York will henceforth, from its position tothe Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, probably in less than a quarter of acentury, present a population greater than that of Paris, and displayevidences of wealth, grandeur, magnificence, and industry, in an equalif not greater degree than what we see in London at this day. We expectthat, in the next twenty-five years, we shall make as rapid a march inthis metropolis, and in the neighbouring cities, as any city has doneduring the last twenty-five centuries. There is no necessity for allgoing to California. Those who remain, and will raise produce, manufacture goods, build ships, construct steam-engines, and advancethe Fine Arts, will enjoy the benefits of those discoveries to as greatan extent as those who go to the Sacramento to dig for gold. All theresults of the labours of those diggers must come to this metropolis, swell its magnificence, and increase the intensity of its action incommercial affairs. Even in a political point of view the discovery ofthese wonderful gold mines in California, under the Government of theUnited States, will have a wonderful and astounding effect. We shouldnot be surprised to see, in a short time, all the old provinces ofMexico, as far as the Isthmus of Darien, knocking for admission intothis union; while, on the other side, the British provinces of Canada, and even the Spanish island of Cuba, may be begging and praying to belet in at the same time, and be permitted to enjoy some of the vastadvantages, and participate a little in the energy, which this vastconfederacy will exhibit to the astonished world. "

DISORDERS IN THE GOLD DISTRICT. --Up to the close of the year theaccounts were with few exceptions favourable to the morals and habitsof the masses of adventurers congregated on the banks of the SanFrancisco and the vicinity; subsequently the statements on these pointsbegan to change, and every letter noticed some robbery or murder, generally both, as of frequent occurrence, and at length they became socommon that there was neither protection for life nor property. Thefollowing ominous intelligence, which appeared in the _WashingtonUnion_ (the organ of government), created an immense sensation. It wasthe substance of a letter from San Francisco, dated the end ofDecember, addressed to Commodore Jones. "This letter (according to the_Union_) presents a desperate state of affairs as existing inCalifornia. Everything is getting worse as regards order andgovernment. Murders and robberies were not only daily events, butoccurring hourly. Within six days more than twenty murders had beenperpetrated. The people were preparing to organise a provisionalgovernment in order to put a stop to these outrages. Within five daysthree men have been hung by Lynch Law. The United States revenue lawsare now in force, and will yield 400, 000 dollars the first year. Theinhabitants are opposed to paying taxes. "

LATEST ACCOUNTS (_from the New York Press_. )--The desperate state ofaffairs in California is fully confirmed. Murders and robberies wereoccurring daily. The following are particulars supplied by LieutenantLanman, of the United States navy, who had returned to New York, afterhaving acted for a year past as collector at Monterey:--

"Only about an hour before he left, he saw a man on board theflag-ship, just arrived from the mines, who confirmed the previousreports in regard to the discoveries on the river Staneslow, where hehad seen a single lump of gold weighing nine pounds, and heard of onethat weighed twenty pounds. The gold excitement in Monterey hadentirely abated, the immense mineral wealth of the country being lookedupon as an established fact. There was no disposition (except among thelandholders) to exaggerate. For a year past Lieutenant Lanman has beenperforming the duties of collector at the port of Monterey; and, havingseen every man who had returned from a visit to the mines, hisopportunities for obtaining authentic information were better than ifhe had visited the mines in person. He informs us that no largeamounts of gold dust or ore were selling at a sacrifice; he does notbelieve that one hundred ounces of the gold dust could have beenpurchased at the reported rate of eight dollars, the ordinary pricesranging from ten to twelve dollars per ounce. The weekly receipts ofgold at San Francisco were estimated at from thirty to fifty thousanddollars, and Lieutenant Lanman knew of one individual who had in hispossession thirty thousand dollars' worth of pure ore and dust. Thecurrent value of gold in trade was sixteen dollars per ounce. There wasa scarcity of coin throughout the country; but when Lieutenant Lanmanarrived at Panama, he was informed that 600, 000 dollars had just beenshipped for California by certain Mexican gentlemen, and that theAmerican consul at Paita (Mr. Ruden) had in charge coin of the value of118, 000 dollars, which he intends to exchange for ore and dust. Peruand Chili are not behind the United States in regard to the goldexcitement, no less than twenty vessels having sailed from these twocountries within a short time bound to San Francisco. They were allwell laden with provisions and other necessaries of life, and theirarrival would probably reduce the prices, which have heretofore been soexorbitant. The whole amount of gold collected at the washings sincethe excitement first broke out is variously estimated--some put it downas high as 4, 000, 000 of dollars, but this I think is a little toohigh. "

A private letter says the produce of a vineyard of 1, 000 vines brought1, 200 dollars; the vegetables of a garden of one acre, near SanFrancisco, 1, 500 dollars. A snow-storm had covered the gold-diggings, and the people were leaving, on account of sickness, intending toreturn in the spring, which is said to be the best season for the goldharvest. Labourers, according to one letter-writer, demanded a dollaran hour! Adventurers continued to arrive at San Francisco from allparts of the world; and several persons, who were reported to be ladendown with gold, were anxious to return to the United States, but couldnot very readily find a conveyance, as the sailors deserted the shipsimmediately on their arrival in port. 

CALIFORNIAN GOLD 250 YEARS AGO. --Pinkerton, in an account of Drake'sdiscovery of a part of California, to which he gave the name of NewAlbion, states:--"The country, too, if we can depend upon what SirFrancis Drake or his chaplain say, may appear worth the seeking and thekeeping, since they assert that _the land is so rich in gold andsilver, that upon the slightest turning it up with a spade or pick-axe, these rich metals plainly appear mixed with the mould_. It may beobjected that this looks a little fabulous; but to this twosatisfactory answers may be given: the first is, that later discoverieson the same coast confirm the truth of it, which for anything I can seeought to put the fact out of question; but if any doubts should remain, my second answer should overturn these. For I say next, that thecountry of New Mexico lies directly behind New Albion, on the otherside of a narrow bay, and in that country are the mines of Santa Fé, which are allowed to be the richest in the world; here, then, is avaluable country, to which we have a very fair title. "

EFFECTS OF THE CALIFORNIAN NEWS IN ENGLAND. --A glance at theadvertisements in the daily papers (says the _Examiner_) will show thatthe public appetite for California is likely to be promptly met. Theburden of the various vessels already announced as ready for immediatedeparture amounts to about 5, 000 tons, distributed in ships rangingfrom 190 to 700 tons, to say nothing of the West India mail-steamer, which leaves on the 17th, carrying goods and passengers to Chagres, orof a "short and pleasant passage" advertised to Galveston, in Texas, asa cheap route to the Pacific. The rates range from £25 upwards to suitall classes. Thus far, however, we have only the arrangements for thosewho are able to move. The opportunities provided for those who wish toshare the advantages of the new region without its dangers are stillmore ample. Indeed, so imposing are the plans for an extensiveinvestment of capital for carrying on the trade in shares of £5 each, that it would seem as if the first effect of the affair would be tocause a scarcity of money rather than an abundance. About a million anda quarter sterling is already wanted, and the promoters stipulate forthe power of doubling the proposed amounts as occasion may offer. Thereis a "California Gold-Coast Trading Association;" a "California GoldMining, Streaming, and Washing Company;" a "California Steam TradingCompany, " a "California Gold and Trading Company;" and a "CaliforniaGold Mining, etc. , Trading Company. " The last of these alone willrequire £600, 000 for its objects, but as half the shares are "to bereserved for the United States of America, " the drain upon ourresources will be lessened to that extent. Some of the concerns proposeto limit their operations to trading on the coast, sending out at thesame time "collecting and exploring parties" whenever the prospect maybe tempting. Others intend at once to get a grant from the legislatureat Washington of such lands "as they may deem necessary, " while othersintend to trust to chance, simply sending out a "practical" manager, accompanied by an adequate number of men "accustomed to the extractionof gold in all its forms. " Along with these advertisements are some ofa modified nature, to suit parties who may neither wish to go out witha batch of emigrants, nor to stay at home and wait the results of apublic company. One "well-educated gentleman" seeks two others "toshare expenses with him. " Another wishes for a companion who wouldadvance £200, "one half to leave his wife, and the other half foroutfit;" a third tells where "any respectable individuals with smallcapital" may find persons willing to join them; a fourth states thatrespectable persons having not less than £100 are wanted to complete aparty; and a fifth, that a "seafaring man is ready to go equal sharesin purchasing a schooner to sail on speculation. " What number may befound to answer those appeals it is impossible to conjecture. Commonsense would say not one, but experience of what has been practised overand over again reminds us that the active parties on the presentoccasion are not calculating too largely upon the credulity of theircountrymen. That the country will be a pandemonium long before any onecan reach it from this side is hardly to be doubted, unless, indeed, the United States government shall have been able to establish ablockade and cordon, in which case the new arrivals will have to getback as well as they can. 

PROBABLE EFFECT ON THE CURRENCY IN EUROPE. --In the description of goldmines, and rivers flowing over golden sands, we must be prepared for alittle over-colouring. Such discoveries have always excited sanguinehopes, and dreams of exhaustless wealth; but if the accounts--and theyreally appear well authenticated--of the golden treasures of Californiabe true, quantities of the most precious of all metals are found--notburied in mines, but scattered on the surface of the earth, and thefortunate adventurer may enrich himself beyond the dreams of avarice, almost without labour, without capital, and with no care but that whichcupidity generates. The principle that the value of the preciousmetals, like other products of industry, is determined primarily by thecost of production, and then by scarcity, ideas of utility, andconvenience, seems to be neutralized by this new discovery; and itbecomes a curious question, how far it may affect the value of gold andsilver in Europe. If the abundance of gold flowing from America be suchas to exceed the demand, the value of gold will fall, and the price ofall other commodities relatively rise, and the relative proportionbetween gold and silver be disturbed so as to affect the standards ofvalue in each country and the par of exchange between one and another. The productiveness of the silver mines, there is no doubt, is greaterand more regular than those of gold; but the enormous increase of thesilver currency on the Continent, in the United States, and even inIndia, and our own colonies, has kept the price of silver a littlebelow five shillings an ounce. On the other hand the English standardof value being gold only, the drain of gold is generally towardsEngland, while that of silver is towards the Continent. We do not doubtthat the English Mint price of gold, £3 17s. 10-1/2d. An ounce, and theprice at which the Bank of England are compelled to purchase, £3 17s. 9d. An ounce, are causes which not only regulate, but, within certainlimits, determine, the price of gold throughout the world. Suppose, fora moment, the circulation of England, exceeding thirty millions and theBank store of fifteen millions, to be thrown on the markets of Europe, by an alteration of the standard of value--how material would be thefall in price! It is equally obvious that England would be first andmost materially affected by any large and sudden production of herstandard of value; for though America would be enriched by thediscovery of the precious metals within her own territories, it is onlybecause she would possess a larger fund to exchange for more useful andnecessary products of labour. The value of silver would not fall, assuming the supply and demand to be equalised, but gold would fall inrelation to silver, and the existing proportion (about 15 to 1) couldno longer be maintained. Then prices would rise of all articles nowestimated in our currency--i. E. An ounce of gold would exchange forless than at present. And, assuming the price of silver to keep up asheretofore, about 5s. An ounce, our sovereign would be valued less inother countries, and all exchange operations would be sensiblyaffected. The only countervailing influence in the reduction of goldto, say, only double the price of silver, would be an increasedconsumption in articles of taste and manufacture, which, however, canonly be speculative and uncertain. It is said by accounts fromCalifornia that five hundred miles lie open to the avarice ofgold-hunters, and that some adventurers have collected from 1, 200 to1, 800 dollars a-day; the probable average of each man's earnings beingfrom 8 to 10 dollars a-day, or, let us say, £2. The same authorityavers there is room and verge enough for the profitable working, tothat extent, of a hundred thousand persons. And it is likely enoughbefore long that such a number may be tempted to seek their easilyacquired fortune in the golden sands of El Sacramento and elsewhere. Now two pounds a-day for each man would amount to £200, 000, which, multiplied by 300 working days, will give £60, 000, 000 a-year! That is, £600, 000, 000 in ten years! A fearful amount of gold dust, and far morethan enough to disturb the equanimity of ten thousand politicaleconomists. The gold utensils found among the simple-minded andphilosophic Peruvians (who wondered at the eager desire of Christiansfor what they scarcely valued), will be esteemed trifles with ourgolden palaces, and halls paved with gold, when California shall havepoured this vast treasure into Europe. Assuming in round numbers each2, 000 lbs. , or troy ton, to be equivalent to £100, 000 sterling, theabove amount in one year would represent _six hundred_ tons, and in tenyears _six thousand_ tons of gold! The imagination of all-ploddingindustrious England is incapable of grasping so great an idea! Canthere be any doubt, then, of a revolution in the value of the preciousmetals?

PROHIBITION FROM THE GOVERNMENT. --It would seem that the governmenthave at length taken measures to preserve the gold districts from thebands of foreign adventurers who are daily pouring in from everyquarter. Towards the end of January we learn that General Smith hadbeen sent out by the United States government, with orders to enforcethe laws against all persons, not citizens of the States, who should befound trespassing on the public lands. Official notice to this effectwas issued to the American consul at Panama and other places, in orderthat emigrants on their way to California might be made aware of thedetermination of the government previous to their arrival. Thepunishment for illegal trespassing is fine and imprisonment. It was notknown, at the date of the last intelligence from California how thisnotification, which makes such an important change in the prospects ofthe numerous bodies now on their way thither, has been received by thepopulation assembled at the land of promise. 

JOURNEY FROM ARKANSAS TO CALIFORNIA. 

The following general view of the nature of the country which dividesthe United States from California is taken from a narrative, publishedby Lieutenant Emory, of a journey from the Arkansas to the newlyannexed territory of the United States. 

"The country, " says the lieutenant, "from the Arkansas to the Colorado, a distance of over 1200 miles, in its adaptation to agriculture, haspeculiarities which must for ever stamp itself upon the populationwhich inhabits it. All North Mexico, embracing New Mexico, Chihuahua, Sonora, and the Californias, as far north as the Sacramento, is, as faras the best information goes, the same in the physical character of itssurface, and differs but little in climate and products. In no part ofthis vast tract can the rains from heaven be relied upon, to anyextent, for the cultivation of the soil. The earth is destitute oftrees, and in great part also of any vegetation whatever. A few feeblestreams flow in different directions from the great mountains, which inmany places traverse this region. These streams are separated, sometimes by plains, and sometimes by mountains, without water andwithout vegetation, and may be called deserts, so far as they performany useful part in the sustenance of animal life. 

"The whole extent of country, except on the margin of streams, isdestitute of forest trees. The Apaches, a very numerous race, and theNavajoes, are the chief occupants, but there are many minor bands, who, unlike the Apaches and Navajoes, are not nomadic, but have fixedhabitations. Amongst the most remarkable of these are the Soones, mostof whom are said to be Albinoes. The latter cultivate the soil, andlive in peace with their more numerous and savage neighbours. Departingfrom the ford of the Colorado in the direction of Sonora, there is afearful desert to encounter. Alter, a small town, with a Mexicangarrison, is the nearest settlement. All accounts concur inrepresenting the journey as one of extreme hardship, and even peril. The distance is not exactly known, but it is variously represented atfrom four to seven days' journey. Persons bound for Sonora fromCalifornia, who do not mind a circuitous route, should ascend the Gilaas far as the Pimos village, and thence penetrate the province by wayof Tucson. At the ford, the Colorado is 1, 500 feet wide, and flows atthe rate of a mile and a half per hour. Its greatest depth in thechannel, at the ford where we crossed, is four feet. The banks are low, not more than four feet high, and, judging from indications, sometimes, though not frequently, overflowed. Its general appearance at this pointis much like that of the Arkansas, with its turbid waters and shiftingsand islands. "

The narrative of Lieut. Emory, of his journey from this point acrossthe Desert of California, becomes highly interesting andcharacteristic. 

"_November 26_. --The dawn of day found every man on horseback, and abunch of grass from the Colorado tied behind him on the cantle of hissaddle. After getting well under way, the keen air at 26° Fahrenheitmade it most comfortable to walk. We travelled four miles along thesand butte, in a southern direction; we mounted the buttes and found afirmer footing covered with fragments of lava, rounded by water, andmany agates. We were now fairly on the desert. 

"Our course now inclined a few degrees more to the north, and at 10, A. M. , we found a large patch of grama, where we halted for an hour, andthen pursued our way over the plains covered with fragments of lava, traversed at intervals by sand buttes, until 4, P. M. , when, aftertravelling 24 miles, we reached the Alamo or cotton-wood. At thispoint, the Spaniards informed us, that, failing to find water, they hadgone a league to the west, in pursuit of their horses, where they founda running stream. We accordingly sent parties to search, but neitherthe water nor their trail could be found. Neither was there anycotton-wood at the Alamo, as its name would signify; but it wasnevertheless the place, the tree having probably been covered by theencroachments of the sand, which here terminates in a bluff 40 feethigh, making the arc of a great circle convexing to the north. Descending this bluff, we found in what had been the channel of astream, now overgrown with a few ill-conditioned mesquite, a large holewhere persons had evidently dug for water. It was necessary to halt torest our animals, and the time was occupied in deepening this hole, which, after a strong struggle, showed signs of water. An old champagnebasket, used by one of the officers as a pannier, was lowered in thehole, to prevent the crumbling of the sand. After many efforts to keepout the caving sand, a basket-work of willow twigs effected the object, and, much to the joy of all, the basket, which was now 15 or 20 feetbelow the surface, filled with water. The order was given for each messto draw a kettle of water, and Captain Turner was placed in charge ofthe spring, to see fair distribution. 

"When the messes were supplied, the firmness of the banks gave hopesthat the animals might be watered, and each party was notified to havetheir animals in waiting; the important business of watering thencommenced, upon the success of which depended the possibility of theiradvancing with us a foot further. Two buckets for each animal wereallowed. At 10, A. M. , when my turn came, Captain Moore had succeeded, by great exertions, in opening another well, and the one already openedbegan to flow more freely, in consequence of which, we could afford togive each animal as much as it could drink. The poor brutes, none ofwhich had tasted water in forty-eight hours, and some not for the lastsixty, clustered round the well and scrambled for precedence. At 12o'clock I had watered all my animals, thirty-seven in number, andturned over the well to Captain Moore. The animals still had an achingvoid to fill, and all night was heard the munching of sticks, and theirpiteous cries for more congenial food. 

"_November 27 and 28_. --To-day we started a few minutes after sunrise. Our course was a winding one, to avoid the sand-drifts. The Mexicanshad informed us that the waters of the salt lake, some thirty or fortymiles distant, were too salt to use, but other information led us tothink the intelligence was wrong. We accordingly tried to reach it;about 3, P. M. , we disengaged ourselves from the sand, and went due(magnetic) west, over an immense level of clay detritus, hard andsmooth as a bowling-green. The desert was almost destitute ofvegetation; now and then an Ephedra, Oenothera, or bunches of Aristidawere seen, and occasionally the level was covered with a growth ofObione canescens, and a low bush with small oval plaited leaves, unknown. The heavy sand had proved too much for many horses and somemules, and all the efforts of their drivers could bring them no furtherthan the middle of this desert. About 8 o'clock, as we approached thelake, the stench of dead animals confirmed the reports of the Mexicans, and put to flight all hopes of being able to use the water. 

"The basin of the lake, as well as I could judge at night, is aboutthree-quarters of a mile long and half a mile wide. The water hadreceded to a pool, diminished to one half its size, and the approach toit, was through a thick soapy quagmire. It was wholly unfit for man orbrute, and we studiously kept the latter from it, thinking that the useof it would but aggravate their thirst. One or two of the men came inlate, and, rushing to the lake, threw themselves down and took manyswallows before discovering their mistake; but the effect was notinjurious except that it increased their thirst. A few mezquite treesand a chenopodiaceous shrub bordered the lake, and on these our mulesmunched till they had sufficiently refreshed themselves, when the callto saddle was sounded, and we groped silently our way in the dark. Thestoutest animals now began to stagger, and when day dawned scarcely aman was seen mounted. 

"With the sun rose a heavy fog from the south-west, no doubt from thegulf, and, sweeping towards us, enveloped us for two or three hours, wetting our blankets and giving relief to the animals. Before it haddisappeared we came to a patch of sun-burned grass. When the fog hadentirely dispersed we found ourselves entering a gap in the mountains, which had been before us for four days. The plain was crossed, but wehad not yet found water. The first valley we reached was dry, and itwas not till 12 o'clock, M. , that we struck the Cariso (cane) creek, within half a mile of one of its sources, and although so close to thesource, the sands had already absorbed much of its water, and left butlittle running. A mile or two below, the creek entirely disappears. Wehalted, having made fifty-four miles in the two days, at the source, amagnificent spring, twenty or thirty feet in diameter, highlyimpregnated with sulphur, and medicinal in its properties. 

"The desert over which we had passed, ninety miles from water to water, is an immense triangular plain, bounded on one side by the Colorado, onthe west by the Cordilleras of California, the coast chain of mountainswhich now encircles us, extending from the Sacramento river to thesouthern extremity of Lower California, and on the north-east by achain of mountains, running southeast and northwest. It is chieflycovered with floating sand, the surface of which in various places iswhite, with diminutive spinelas, and everywhere over the whole surfaceis found the large and soft muscle shell. I have noted the only twopatches of grass found during the 'jornada. ' There were scattered, atwide intervals, the Palafoxia linearis, Atriplex, Encelia farinosa, Daleas, Euphorbias, and a Simsia, described by Dr. Torrey as a newspecies. 

"The southern termination of this desert is bounded by the Tecaté chainof mountains and the Colorado; but its northern and eastern boundariesare undefined, and I should suppose from the accounts of trappers, andothers, who have attempted the passage from California to the Gila by amore northern route, that it extends many days' travel beyond the chainof barren mountains which bound the horizon in that direction. Theportal to the mountains through which we passed was formed by immensebuttes of yellow clay and sand, with large flakes of mica and seams ofgypsum. Nothing could be more forlorn and desolate in appearance. Thegypsum had given some consistency to the sand buttes, which were washedinto fantastic figures. One ridge formed apparently a complete circle, giving it the appearance of a crater; and although some miles to theleft, I should have gone to visit it, supposing it to be a crater, butmy mule was sinking with thirst, and water was yet at some distance. Many animals were left on the road to die of thirst and hunger, inspite of the generous efforts of the men to bring them to the spring. More than one was brought up, by one man tugging at the halter andanother pushing up the brute, by placing his shoulder against itsbuttocks. Our most serious loss, perhaps, was that of one or two fatmares and colts brought with us for food; for, before leaving camp, Major Swords found in a concealed place one of the best pack mulesslaughtered, and the choice bits cut from his shoulders and flanks, stealthily done by some mess less provident than others. 

"_Nov. 29_. --The grass at the spring was anything but desirable for ourhorses, and there was scarcely a ration left for the men. This lastconsideration would not prevent our giving the horses a day's restwherever grass could be found. We followed the dry sandy bed of theCariso nearly all day, at a snail's pace, and at length reached the'little pools' where the grass was luxuriant but very salt. The waterstrongly resembled that at the head of the Cariso creek, and the earth, which was very tremulous for many acres about the pools, was coveredwith salt. This valley is not more than half a mile wide, and on eachside are mountains of grey granite and pure quartz, rising from 1, 000to 3, 000 feet above it. 

"We rode for miles through thickets of the centennial plant, AgaveAmericana, and found one in full bloom. The sharp thorns terminatingevery leaf of this plant were a great annoyance to our dismounted andwearied men, whose legs were now almost bare. A number of these plantswere cut by the soldiers, and the body of them used as food. The daywas intensely hot, and the sand deep; the animals, inflated with waterand rushes, gave way by scores; and although we advanced only sixteenmiles, many did not arrive at camp until 10 o'clock at night. It was afeast day for the wolves, which followed in packs close on our track, seizing our deserted brutes, and making the air resound with theirhowls as they battled for the carcases. 

"_December 12_. --We followed the Solidad through a deep fertile valleyin the shape of a cross. Here we ascended to the left a steep hill tothe table lands, which, keeping for a few miles, we descended into awaterless valley, leading into False Bay at a point distant two orthree miles from San Diego. At this place we were in view of the fortoverlooking the town of San Diego and the barren waste which surroundsit. 

"The town consists of a few adobe houses, two or three of which onlyhave plank floors. It is situated at the foot of a high hill on a sandflat, two miles wide, reaching from the head of San Diego Bay to FalseBay. A high promontory, of nearly the same width, runs into the seafour or five miles, and is connected by the flat with the main land. The road to the hide-houses leads on the east side of this promontory, and abreast of them the frigate Congress and the sloop Portsmouth areat anchor. The hide-houses are a collection of store-houses where thehides of cattle are packed before being shipped, this article formingthe only trade of the little town. 

"The bay is a narrow arm of the sea indenting the land some four orfive miles, easily defended, and having twenty feet of water at thelowest tide. The rise is five feet, making the greatest watertwenty-five feet. 

"Standing on the hill which overlooks the town, and looking to thenorth-east, I saw the mission of San Diego, a fine large building nowdeserted. The Rio San Diego runs under ground in a direct course fromthe mission to the town, and, sweeping around the hill, dischargesitself into the bay. Its original debouche was into False bay, where, meeting the waters rolling in from the seaward, a bar was formed by thedeposit of sand, making the entrance of False Bay impracticable. 

"_January 2_. --Six and a half miles' march brought us to the desertedmission of San Luis Rey. The keys of this mission were in charge of thealcalde of the Indian village, a mile distant. He was at the door toreceive us and deliver up possession. There we halted for the day, tolet the sailors, who suffered dreadfully from sore feet, recruit alittle. This building is one which, for magnitude, convenience, anddurability of architecture, would do honour to any country. 

"The walls are adobe, and the roofs of well-made tile. It was builtabout sixty years since by the Indians of the country, under theguidance of a zealous priest. At that time the Indians were verynumerous, and under the absolute sway of the missionaries. Thesemissionaries at one time bid fair to christianize the Indians ofCalifornia. Under grants from the Mexican government, they collectedthem into missions, built immense houses, and began successfully totill the soil by the hands of the Indians for the benefit of theIndians. 

"The habits of the priests, and the avarice of the military rulers ofthe territory, however, soon converted these missions into instrumentsof oppression and slavery of the Indian race. 

"The revolution of 1836 saw the downfall of the priests, and most ofthese missions passed by fraud into the hands of private individuals, and with them the Indians were transferred as serfs of the land. 

"This race, which, in our country, has never been reduced to slavery, is in that degraded condition throughout California, and does the onlylabour performed in the country. Nothing can exceed their presentdegradation. "

The general closing remarks of Lieutenant Emory are as follow:

"The region extending from the head of the Gulf of California to theparallel of the Pueblo, or Ciudad de los Angeles, is the only portionnot heretofore covered by my own notes and journal, or by the notes andjournals of other scientific expeditions fitted out by the UnitedStates. The journals and published accounts of these severalexpeditions combined will give definite ideas of all those portions ofCalifornia susceptible of cultivation or settlement. From this remarkis to be excepted the vast basin watered by the Colorado, and thecountry lying between that river and the range of Cordilleras, represented as running east of the Tulare lakes, and south of theparallel of 36°, and the country between the Colorado and Gila rivers. 

"Of these regions nothing is known except from the reports of trappers, and the speculations of geologists. As far as these accounts go, allconcur in representing it as a waste of sand and rock, unadorned withvegetation, poorly watered, and unfit, it is believed, for any of theuseful purposes of life. A glance at the map will show what an immensearea is embraced in these boundaries; and, notwithstanding the oralaccounts in regard to it, it is difficult to bring the mind to thebelief in the existence of such a sea of waste and desert; when everyother grand division of the earth presents some prominent feature inthe economy of nature, administering to the wants of man. Possibly thisunexplored region may be filled with valuable minerals. 

"Where irrigation can be had in this country, the produce of the soilis abundant beyond description. All the grains and fruits of thetemperate zones, and many of those of the tropical, flourishluxuriantly. Descending from the heights of San Barnardo to the Pacificone meets every degree of temperature. Near the coast, the windsprevailing from the south-west in winter, and from the north-west insummer, produce a great uniformity of temperature, and the climate isperhaps unsurpassed in salubrity. With the exception of a very fewcases of ague and fever of a mild type, sickness is unknown. 

"The season of the year at which we visited the country wasunfavourable to obtaining a knowledge of its botany. The vegetation, mostly deciduous, had gone to decay, and no flowers nor seeds werecollected. The country generally is entirely destitute of trees. Alongthe principal range of the mountains are a few live oaks, sycamore andpine; now and then, but very rarely, the sycamore and cotton-wood occurin the champaign country, immediately on the margins of the streams. Wild oats everywhere cover the surface of the hills, and these, withthe wild mustard and carrots, furnish good pasturage to the immenseherds of cattle which form the staple of California. Of the many fruitscapable of being produced with success, by culture and irrigation, thegrape is perhaps that which is brought nearest to perfection. Experienced wine-growers and Europeans, pronounce this portion ofCalifornia unequalled for the quality of its wines. "