MAKE YOUR OWN HATS by GENE ALLEN MARTINCopyright 1921 by Gene Allen Martin, Director of domestic arts of the Minneapolis Y.W.C.A.; designer, demonstrator and instructor in millinery. Illustrated by E.E. Martin. Boston and New York, Houghton Mifflin Company. CONTENTSI. Equipment and Materials II. Covering Frame with Velvet III. Frames of Neteen and Crinoline IV. Wire Frames V. Round Crown of Wire VI. Hat Coverings VII. Trimmings VIII. Hand-Made Flowers IX. Remodeling and Renovating The contents of each chapter are as follows: CHAPTER I -- EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALSEquipmentMaterials used to make Hat Frames- Buckram- Crinoline- Neteen or fly net- Cape net- Willow plate- Cable- Frame or brace wire- Lace- Tie—- Ribbon- Sprung Hat Frames of Fabric- Sailor hat frame- Pattern for brim- Headsize wire - To measure - To shape - To locate headsize on pattern - To cut buckram brim - To sew headsize wire to brim- Edge wire - To cover edge wire- Right side—wrong side - Square crown - Pattern for slanting side crown - To cut side crown from buckram - Crown tips - Soft crown tip - Stiff crown tip, made of buckram- Crowns - To cover round crown CHAPTER II -- COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET- To cover brim- To sew velvet edge to brim- To face under side of brim- To cover crown top- To cover side crown - To sew crown on brim- Edge of brim facing, when finished without wire- To cover narrow brim sailor without an edge seam- Facings- Brims covered with two kinds of fabric- Shaped brim foundation- To make pattern for brim- To cover a mushroom-shaped brim- Sheer materials- Pattern for hat with rolled or close-fitting brim- To cover a close-fitting or rolled brim- To slipstitch seam- To glue velvet to the brim- A shirred crown of fabricCHAPTER III -- FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE- To join the seam in the back- To sew edge wire on neteen- To make a turban frame of neteen or crinoline- To wire turban flare- Covering - turbans CHAPTER IV -- WIRE FRAMES- Equipment- To open coil of wire- To cut wire- To straighten wire- To tie wire- To fasten two pieces of brace wire diagonally- To fasten two pieces of brace wire without the use of tie wire- To make wire frame for hat having flat brim and square crown- Pattern for brim- Headsize wire for wire frame- Working measurements needed- Sticks for brim- Edge wire- To join edge wire- Collar of brim- Square crown for wire frame- Base wire for crown- Transparent hatsCHAPTER V -- ROUND CROWN OF WIRE- Base wire - Circles or hoops - To finish the base of the crown - A shaped wire frame made in one piece - Pattern for brim - Crown - Brim A rolling brim - To color wire frames - Halo hat brims - Headsize wire for halo brim - Crown for halo brim CHAPTER VIII -- HAND-MADE FLOWERS- Material required - American Beauty rose - Ribbon rose - Foliage - Small wound rose of fabric - Wired rose - Flat pasted blossom - Poinsettias - Poppies- Morning glories - Orchid - No. 1 pattern for the center - No. 2 pattern for the center - Blossoms of maline or net - Sweet peas - Violets - Daisies - Geraniums - Fruit - Apples - Cherries - Plums - Raisins - Grapes- Mourning Millinery - Applied hem on a veilCHAPTER IX -- REMODELING AND RENOVATING- Straw shapes - Brim - Crown- To put a straw hat into shape- Light straw hats- When straw is to be re-sewed- Panama hats- Old buckram frames- Blocking over wire frames- New brims for old crowns- Felt and beaver hats- Renovation of hat coverings and linings- To freshen crêpe for mourning millinery- Cleaning, curling, and tinting feathers- Ribbons- Flowers- Quills- Wings- Lace- Malines AND MUCH MORE!