UN VISITED PLACES OF OLD EUROPE S, ROBERT SHACKLETON Author of The Quest of the Colonial, Etc. Illustrations by WALTER HALE AND RALPH L. BOYER -- V,. r- r-js C A P N E Y NN PH P I U L B A L D I E S L H P I H N I G A 1914 Contents PAGE I. THE BEGINNING or IT ALL 7 II. FINDING THE STRANGEST CORNER OF EUROPE..., 16 IH. IN THE SCILLY ISLANDS 21 IV. GETTING TO GUERNSEY 40 V. WHERE KING GEORGE is STILL DUKE or NOR MANDY 45 VI. A PENINSULA OF PATRONYMICS 60 VU. THE NORMAN HOME OF THE BRUCE 83 VIII. UNEXPECTED SURVIVALS IN AND NEAR PARIS 102 IX. IN THE FOREST OF ARDEN 118 X. FREE AND INDEPENDENT LUXEMBOURG 136 XI. NEUTRAL MORESNET 157 XII. WATERTOCHTJES IN HOLLAND 175 XIII. THE OLD RED CITY OF ROTHENBURG 189 XIV. LIECHTENSTEIN A SOVEREIGN STATE 204 XV. THE PASSES OF THE ALPS IN SNOW AND ICE 228 XVI. THROUGH THE DOLOMITES IN WINTER 236 XVII. A WILLIAM TELL OF UNVISITED MOUNTAINS 252 XVIII. AN UNFAMILIAR NAPLES 273 XIX. ALONG THE BRENTA ONCE A HIGHWAY FOR THE WORLD 285 Illustrations THE FORGOTTEN PALACE or MALCONTENTA Frontispiece PAGE IN A LAND BEYOND LANDS END 18 TROPICAL TREES ON THE SCILLY ROCKS 26 FIELDS OE NORTHERN MID-WINTER FLOWERS 36 AN ENGLISH CAPITAL UNDER OLD FRENCH LAWS 48 THE FASCINATING SHORE OE GUERNSEY 56 A BYWAY IN A NORMAN TOWN 68 A VILLAGE or THE COTENTIN 78 AT THE NORMAN HOME OF THE BRUCE 94 IN A TOWN OF WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR VALOGNES 98 THE CASTLE OF GODFREY DE BOUILLON 122 A TOWERED GATEWAY LEFT FROM OLD FORTIFICATIONS. . 140 IN INDEPENDENT LUXEMBOURG 148 A PROCESSION IN NEUTRAL MORESNET 172 A SHADED WATERWAY OF HOLLAND 178 WINDMILLS SEEN ON A WATERTOCHTJE 186 THE WALL OF ROTHENBURG 192 A CORNER IN THE OLD RED CITY 200 A THOUSAND YEARS OLD AND NEVER CAPTURED 210 THE DELECTABLE VALLEY OF LIECHTENSTEIN 220 A FAMOUS PASS THAT CAN BE CROSSED IN WINTER 232 SEEN FROM A SLEDGE IN THE DOLOMITES 240 WINTER IN THE ITALIAN ALPS 248 PIEVE DI CADORE WHEN DEEP IN SNOW 254 A FUNERAL WITH MASKED ATTENDANTS 274 A STAIRWAY STREET OF NAPLES.. 278 IN A PALACE OF THE BRENTA AT STR 294 UNVISITED PLACES OF OLD EUROPE I. THE BEGINNING OF IT ALL OU are the first American said the hostess of the inn, beaming coincident hospitality, curiosity, and surprise you are the first American to enter this principal ity And that was really the begin ning of it the incitement, the stimulus, the cause. For there comes a thrill, in the very heart of the old and traveled Europe, in learning that you are the very first of your own people to find out something new something im portant and interesting and new. It made me real ize the charm of it, and I felt that this should but 7 Unvlsited Places of Old Europe be the beginning of seeking out interesting and un visited places. And next day the feeling was conclusively con firmed, for the Governor called upon me and said, with a dignity which carried his full impression of the distinction of the fact You are the first American to enter the limits of Liechtenstein We know of America, and letters come from Amer ica, for to your land some few of our people have gone, but never before has any one from America entered this principality. Yet it is an autonomous, independent principal ity, nooked among mountains, between Switzer land and Austria. It gave me a new idea of the possibilities that lie before the traveler who wishes to find the unknown or little known, yet would like to find it in connection with the usual tourist journeyings, but has neither time nor money and perhaps not even the inclination to travel far from the usual paths. And the very fact that an un visited place is near the beaten track gives a tang and a zest. In Liechtenstein there came a keener pleasure, a finer savor of discovery, in the knowledge that the old white castle, perched precipitously upon its cliff of white rock, is every year seen from car windows by hundreds of Americans going past Liechtenstein on the other side of the valley. There are two Europes...